According to the Greek philosopher Heraclitus, the only constant in life is change. And this very much holds true in the world of wine. A recent example of this is at Plantagenet.
Plantagenet is a pioneer of the Great Southern region, with Tony Smith planting the first vines in 1968. Planting at the Wyjup vineyard commenced in 1971 with Cabernet and Riesling, with the addition of Shiraz, Malbec and Chardonnay shortly afterwards.
Over time, ownership gradually transferred to Lionel Samson & Son but in 2021, Tom and Jo Wisdom became the new owners. Tom was working as General Manager at the winery at the time and is a descendant of the Lionel Samson family.
The final chapter (to date) was the appointment of Mike Garland as winemaker. Mike started his winemaking career at Plantagenet in 1997 and his return completes the circle.
The old-vine Wyjup vineyard is at the heart of the current Plantagenet range and was the key asset acquired in the purchase, along with the Plantagenet brand. The Wisdoms have leased back the Mt Barker cellar door, allowing them to maintain a key presence in the region and they also have access to many of the vineyards on an ongoing basis.
Whilst the entry level wines are made under contract, the premium Wyjup range will be made exclusively on-site by Mike Garland.
2022 will be the first vintage completed end-to-end by the new team and I am very much looking forward to seeing the results.
Reviewed
Plantagenet – Three Lions – Riesling – 2021. Generous, approachable and very drinkable. The fruit is mouth filing and juicy, with lime and pear. Gentle phenolics add mouthfeel and texture. 90pts – $26.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2021. Pretty floral fruit aromas tease on the nose, but this is really quite closed and tight right now. The palate is fine, taut and mineral laden, but there is undeniable presence and depth. Very age-worthy and impressive, the fruit coming from the original 50 y/o vineyard. 94pts – $45
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Chardonnay – 2020. This is very impressive. Like the Wyjup Riesling, this is taut, dense and powerful. Early drinkability has been deprioritised in the pursuit of structure and longevity. Impressive tight grain oak is a feature, sitting well with the fruit, and a key part of the fabric of the wine. Will get higher points with time in bottle. 93-95pts -$70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Malbec – 2021. This was the absolute standout of the tasting. Structured, powerful and most impressive, the fruit is dense and powerful. Yet this retains vibrancy and a supple texture. With air, the balance and approachability are outstanding. A great effort and demonstrates just how good MT Barker Malbec can be. The fruit comes from just 0.3 hectare off the 50-year-old Wyjup vineyard. Only three barrels made (1/3 new oak) and includes a splash of shiraz. 95+pts – $70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Shiraz – 2018. This is so so pretty on the nose, but it is on the palate that the seriousness of this wine shows through. The chocolatey fruit is structured, dense and powerful, and is complemented by gravelly, almost chewy tannins and texture. Age-worthy. 94 -95pts – $80.
I wrote last year about the superb sparkling wines produced by Sittella from the 2016 vintage. The good news is that there are still limited stocks available from the winery. You can access my reviews here.
This tasting was an opportunity to review some of the new release wines that have (or are about to) come onto the market. It was also the first time that the panel had a chance to meet with winemaker Yuri Berns since he took over as senior winemaker at Sittella.
The first thing that stood out is that attention to detail remains a key focus for Yuri and his team. Yes, they obviously have very good palates, but the technical expertise that underpins the winemaking is clearly a factor in the consistent quality across the range of wines.
I am struggling to pick a favourite from the tasting, as the Chenin Blanc, and the El Vivero in particular, demonstrated just how good the whites from the Swan Valley can be. The El Vivero is a field blend of varieties from the winery’s nursery block, and will be a great match for lighter foods, or on its own on a sunny spring afternoon.
From a value perspective, the Reserve Chardonnay at $40 is a steal, as is the Reserve Cabernet Malbec which, at $32, is a screaming bargain.
The Berns Reserve Cabernet ($60) is one of the last of the excellent 2018 vintage reds still available on the market. Definitely one for the cellar.
Reviewed
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2022. The fruit for this excellent wine comes from the 1965 Houghton plantings. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed. The palate is viscous, oily, textured, clean, fresh and vibrant, with waxy citrus fruit supported by gentle phenolic texture. Now or later, the choice is yours. 93pts – $32.
Sittella Avant Garde – El Vivero – Blanc – 2021. The fruit for this wine comes from the nursery block, and is a field blend of the white varieties planted there. I like this a lot. There is gentle richness and power, with hints of honey. Not toast, but certainly a touch of brioche. Excellent length and mouthfeel. Different to the Chenin, and an excellent drink. 92pts – $32.
Sittella – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. Wow, this is quite superb. Rich, textured, powerful, with stone fruit and spice. The oak is an important addition to the textures and flavours. This runs in parallel to the fruit today, but a year or two will see this settle back and allow the fruit to be the star. Gentle mealy/worked notes add complexity, aided by a fine acid core. Has the quality to challenge the best of the region, but not the price. 95pts – $40.
Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache – 2022 – This is so bright and juicy, making for a totally smashable wine. But there is a serious core sitting beneath the slurpable veneer. Coffee, chocolate and texturing gravelly tannins all add to the enjoyment. Swan Valley fruit, 20% of which underwent carbonic maceration to help preserve freshness. 93pts – $TBC.
Sittella – Tinta Rouge – Tempranillo blend – 2020. This is a cracking wine. The focus here is the fruit, but this is complemented by textural, gravelly tannins that will work a treat with food. Plum, black fruits and liquorice notes lead to a long, slightly chewy texture. Just the ticket for bangers and mash. 92pts $20.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Tempranillo/Touriga – 2020. This has less of the gravelly tannins than the Tinta Rouge and a silkier mouthfeel. The fruit is quite closed and tight right now, but this is a super wine, which needs a few years to unwind. But it would be amazing with lamb shanks. 93pts – $40.
Sittella – Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2020. What a lovely wine! Silky fruit, subtle oak, skilled winemaking, with excellent texture and mouthfeel. But this is reserved, shy and only hinting at potential. The density of fruit is a highlight. 94pts – $32.
Sittella – Berns Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a bit like Clark Kent/Superman. It appears mild-mannered and gentle, but underneath is a core of powerful and structured fruit that just needs a decade or two to absolutely hit its straps. Density and depth are a highlight, and the very long finish is so silky and fine. 95.5pts – $60.
It takes a brave or very confident winemaker to put on a wine tasting for the public where their wines are compared to a cross section of excellent wines from other producers and regions.
Cullen (Chardonnay), Cape Mentelle (Cabernet) and Peel Estate (Shiraz) are all producers that have held such events for decades, pitting the very best from around the world against their own wines.
So too has John Griffith at Faber.
Like everything that John does, value for money is a key consideration when hosting these events. At $150 per person, this one cost only 1/5th that of Cape Mentelle for example.
Whilst this precludes including the most expensive wines of a given style, John put together a carefully curated selection of wines from across Australia to compare and contrast with his own wines.
That the Faber Reserve did exceptionally well should surprise no one, as the wine has been consistently excellent. That each of the three Faber shiraz were the crowd favourite in their respective brackets is a testament to the quality and value on offer.
All wines were served blinded.
Bracket One
Spinifex – Shiraz – 2019 – Barossa Valley. Leads with lovely sweet fruit that is ripe and supple, with vanillin oak adding to the package. This is approachable and fun to drink, with the structured, texturing oak adding mouthfeel and texture. With air, the fruit builds and grows. 93-94pts – $48
Fallen Giants – Shiraz – 2019 – Grampians. Initially closed and reserved, its cool climate origins defined by the cherry/plum/berry fruit and white pepper notes. The palate is flooded with mulberry and plum fruit, balanced by fine, dusty tannins. Excellent fruit and sympathetic winemaking make for a compelling wine indeed. 95pts – $40.
By Farr – Shiraz – 2019 – From Geelong. More savoury, with gentle savoury notes over satsuma plum. On the palate the fruit is ripe, but this is a lithe, fresh style that has more in common with Pinot Noir than a warm climate Shiraz. Popular, but not a style that I really understand. 93pts – $100
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge – Shiraz – 2019 – Frankland River. This has it all. Balance, grace, and elegance. Superbly ripe cooler climate fruit has been matched to fine-grained oak. Whilst a little closed now, this has excellent length, depth and intrinsic power. On the close, the graphite-like tannins shut down the finish. 95.5pts – $50.
Faber – Riche – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. This is like meeting an old friend. At once familiar, comfortable and safe. It opens with ripe fruit, hints of tobacco and menthol. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit and fresh acidity, with spice and liquorice. A few years of cellaring would not hurt this one bit. The crowd favourite for bracket one, and insane value. 94pts – $23.
Bracket Two.
Wendouree – Shiraz – 2019 – Clare Valley. Pretty, pretty fruit, supported by supple cedary oak and very fine tannins. But this is closed and tight, only hinting at its potential. With air, the fruit builds and builds, and the length is quite incredible. This has a cooler region feel to it. Whilst not a crowd favourite, this was the sleeper of the tasting and my equal highest pointed wine. 96 – 97pts – $65.
Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – Frankland River. My glass did not show well on the day…
Faber – Reserve – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. The fruit here is ripe, vibrant and quite stunning straight out of the glass. More berry than plum, with hints of mint and eucalyptus. The palate is supple, silky and very very long. The oak is the canvas on which the fruit has been hung, an integral part of the picture, but not a defining feature. The was one of the crowd picks for wine of the day. 96-97pts – $75.
Standish – The Standish – Shiraz – 2019 – Barossa Valley. This wine hits you like a freight train. Hugely powerful and dense, flooding the senses with flavours and aromas. The flavours tend to ripe plum and berry, supported by spice and cedar from the oak. Gets a little chocolatey on the close. Needs years to show its best, but this is high impact wine. 95pts – $120.
Kay Brothers – Block 6 – Shiraz – 2019 – McLaren Vale. Balanced, focussed and precise, this is a very different style to the Standish. Closed and tight, this gives little away right now, yet the palate is seamless and very long, with the fine, silky tannins building on the close. But everything is place for long term ageing in what is a superb wine. 95.5pts – $130.
Bracket Three
Tyrells – Vat 9 – Shiraz – 2019 – Hunter Valley. Lighter in colour to some, but no less worthwhile. The ripe fruit is pretty and perfumed, supported by subtle pepper and spice. Initially, the palate is juicy and succulent, though ultimately structured and closed due to the extraordinarily fine tannins and acid. With immense lengths of flavours, this is a brilliant wine, albeit in an understated style. 96pts – $109.
Faber – Millard Vineyard – Shiraz – 2019 – Swan Valley. This possesses the wow factor, with the rich ripe fruit and supple oak that hits you in the face. On the palate, this is matched with incredible length and intensity, combined with generosity of flavours, whilst the tannins will support ageing. If you like a big, rich, ripe Shiraz, then look no further. 95pts – $48.
Osicka – Shiraz – 2019 – Heathcote. The Millard is a hard act for any wine to follow, especially a lighter style like the Osicka. This is a wine for the Francophiles. Closed, shy and restrained, with menthol, spice and gentle herbs. These are supported by talc-like tannins and refreshing acidity. A reserved style that needs time (and space) to evolve. 93pts – $67.
Torbreck – The Gask – 2019 – Eden Valley. This is just so complete. Supple, succulent silky and dense, with hints of mocha. The textural components are a highlight as is the length. Superb now, but capable of 20 years of ageing. 95pts – $85
Since I first started writing about wines in 2009, Angove has featured strongly in my recommendations. In the early years, the value for money was a key driver for me, with numerous high-quality wines reviewed that sold for less than $10 at the time.
Indeed, there is a healthy stock of brilliant drinking Angove wines in my cellar from 2008 through to 2012 given the unbeatable value that was on offer.
Fast forward to 2022 and the efforts of the Angove family to shift the focus of their wines to the premium end of the market has paid off brilliantly for the consumer. The wines are superbly made and are still great value for money, particularly at the Family Crest level.
The shift in focus has also been accompanied by a gradual shift in style. The wines have become more restrained and elegant, with the textural components a feature. They are still true to their McLaren Vale origins, but the wines are more refined, possessing a quiet confidence that is most attractive.
If I had to use one word, it would be polished. To see them at their best, the wines really need air to open up, and allow the quality fruit to really express itself.
Reviewed
Angove – Organic – Sparkling – NV. For me, this was the surprise package of the tasting. Brilliant drinking at just $18 a bottle. Drying, taut and quite intense, this has a degree of power to the fruit. Apple, cinnamon and baker’s spices over fresh fruit and gentle autolysis notes. Bright acidity and gentle textural grip round out the palate. Delicious! 91pts – $18.
Angove – Family Crest – Shiraz – 2019. This does not come across as big or powerful, but it is very well balanced and is supple, succulent and delicious. The souring acidity is a feature, adding freshness and keeping the palate lithe. Understated yet excellent, this took a day for the fruit to really build depth, so cellaring seams a good idea. 93+pts – $25.
Angove – The Medhyk – Shiraz – 2018. Straight out of the bottle, this is a savoury, earthy expression of Shiraz that is restrained and shy. But with plenty of air, the latent power really starts to express. Great old-vine fruit and sympathetic wine-making combine in a polished, elegant McLaren Vale Shiraz of very high quality. Not flashy or showy, but confident and self-assured. Decant at least an hour before drinking to allow the fruit to shine. 95pts – $65.
Angove – Organic – Shiraz – 2020.. Fresh and, supple, with gentle savoury notes and soft tannins. This has enough structure to keep the balance, yet the fruit is soft and approachable. My pick of the range for an easy drinking, mid-week wine. 89pts – $18
Wild Olive – Organic – Shiraz – 2021. In keeping with the name, this is savoury, earthy and textured. There is a core of ripe fruit, but this is a little bit brooding and closed right now. An excellent wine that could go well with spicy food. 92+pts – $25.
Angove – Organic – Shiraz/Cabernet – 2020. Pretty pretty fruit that reminds me of red berries and raspberry, The fruit is quite thick/dense, yet the balance and structure are spot on for a wine of this price. The palate transition is a bonus. Great value drinking! 93pts – $18.
Basileus – Shiraz – 2018 – $25. This is all about the sweet, succulent, perfectly ripe fruit that is reminiscent of plum and red currant. The wine-making is spot on, with the texturing oak adding depth and texture, without diminishing the fruit. The finish gets a little closed, but this would be a great match for a hearty, protein-rich meal. Plum, red currant. 93+pts – $25.
Basileus – Grenache- 2020. This initially presents quite savoury and earthy, but there is a core of ripe fruit sitting in the background. This is quite textured, made in a more structured, contemplative style. The oak plays a role, adding texture and mouthfeel. Medium term cellaring would be of benefit, but this would be great with Tapas now. 93pts – $25.
Cherubino – Porongurup – Riesling – 2021. Extraordinarily fine and elegant, with flinty minerality and silky texture. The palate is near seamless, with gentle intensity and subtle power. Superb now, but capable of aging for two decades. 95+pts.
Cherubino – Omaggio – Shiraz/Mataro – 2020. Gorgeous nose that is redolent of berries and plum, with gentle savoury characters adding the high notes. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with the delicious fruit flooding the palate. The soft tannins add texture, without impeding the flow of the fruit. A great drink with or without food. 93pts
Cherubino – Block 1 – Shiraz – 2020. This is more reserved, with the fruit slowly unfurling on both the nose and the palate. Precise, with gravelly tannins poking around the edges of the tongue. Very satisfying and food friendly, but needs a few years or an hour in a decanter to really open up. 94pts
Cherubino – Frankland River – Shiraz – 2019. Dusty, savoury, almost earthy nose up front, with the fruit tucked away, cocooned in the structure. But with air, this really starts to sing. Ripe, precise cool climate shiraz, with white pepper and spice adding to the package. The oak adds texture but is otherwise invisible. A day later, this was magical drinking. 95-96pts
Cherubino – Margaret River – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019 . This has great typicity, with classic blackcurrant/ almost cassis fruit. But it also possesses a juicy/fleshy nature that makes it great drinking now. Supple, balanced and textured, yet there are fine tannins that make their presence felt on the palate which add to the enjoyment and will help cut through rich food. Again, the next day the fruit really started to sing, suggesting that my points will go up over time. 94-95pts.
Cherubino – Budworth – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is the essence of Cabernet with Ribena-like fruit cascading from the glass in waves. The palate is concentrated, dense, fine, elegant and restrained. The finish is supple and near seamless. Drinks brilliantly, but this really is a 20-year option. With the fruit coming off the Riversdale vineyard, this extraordinary wine that demonstrates that Frankland River can produce Cabernets to rival the best of Margaret River and Bordeaux. 96-97pts
Larry Cherubino has an enviable reputation when it comes to producing great (and great value) red wines and Rieslings.
My impressions started with the brilliant value Moondah Brook, Crofters and Houghton reds from the late 1990s when Larry was senior winemaker at Houghton, and were reinforced by any number of wines under the various labels in the Cherubino range.
But in recent vintages, the Cherubino Chardonnays have risked stealing the show, and the currently available range is an extremely strong portfolio of wines.
Reviewed
Cherubino – Caves Road – Chardonnay – 2021. This is leaner and more citrus driven expression, in a taut, restrained style. The fruit is very fine and elegant, taking some time to express in the glass. But there is a core of ripe fruit that runs the length of the palate. Give it time to show its best. 94-95pts.
Cherubino – Dijon – Wychwood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. Fine, yet with innate power and great depth of fruit. Superb fruit and brilliant winemaking have resulted in a complete wine now, but one that is also worthy of 5+ years in the cellar. This is not a statement wine but is the most compelling wine in the range. 95+pts
Cherubino – Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2020. Ripe, joyful fruit that has plenty of Gingin clone pineapple characters. Delicious and more obvious than the others in the tasting but lacks the ultimate finesse of the best. 93pts.
Cherubino – Gingin – Willows Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. This is oh so fine and elegant, with great restraint to the ripe, svelte fruit. Subtle power, supple texture and excellent length make this a wine to watch. A very fine expression of Gingin clone fruit. 95pts.
Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2020. The big brother of the range, and this is demonstrated by the extra depth and intensity of the fruit. Hints of pineapple over ripe stone fruit, with creamy oak and barrel ferment characters adding depth and texture. The mouthfeel is a highlight, with curry leaf minerality building. Gets ever so slightly grippy on the finish, so 2-3 years should see this do very well indeed. A fine, elegant wine. 96pts.
The fact that Margaret River is making world-class Chardonnays is something that I am sure we can all agree on. But I was amazed at just how good some of these wines were drinking at this early stage in their lives.
The pair from Vasse Felix were brilliant, with the value offered by the “premium” Chardonnay hard to beat.
Gant & Co also turned out a great drinking wine, whilst the Allingham is a superb each way bet. And then there was the superb Deep Woods Reserve Chardonnay… Another superb wine.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2019. Opens with lovely peachy fruit that is fragrant and creamy. The sweet vanillin oak is an attractive addition, complementing the fruit perfectly. The palate is balanced, creamy, textured and near seamless, with fine acidity and excellent length. This is complete drinking now and quite superb, but a few years in bottle will do this no harm. An extra half a point for drinkability. 95.5+pts
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2021. Leaner and taut, yet still possessing precise ripe fruit. This is less creamy and textural than the Allingham and offers quite a different drinking experience. A high-quality food-friendly wine that is excellent now, but this will also cellar for 5 years with ease. 93pts.
Evans & Tate – Redbrook – Chardonnay – 2018. This is a cracking wine. Exquisite fruit and very fine, sympathetic winemaking have resulted in a superb drinking experience. Seamless and complete. The fruit will fill out with a few years in bottle, but this is good to go now. 95pts.
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2020. The curry leaf minerality have been turned up a notch in this wine. Great depth of fruit, moving towards citrus (pink grapefruit) rather than stone fruit. The density of fruit is a feature, giving this intrinsic power. A cooler style that would be brilliant with food, as the fresh acidity will cut through the palate. Stunning chardonnay that challenges the best of Burgundy. 97pts.
Trait – Chardonnay – 2020. A ripe and lively wine that offers great drinking, The acid profile will ensure that this goes well with food, and 5 years will see this fill out nicely. 93pts.
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2020 – This made me swoon just a little, such is the beauty of the fruit. Superbly handled, with the subtle winemaking inputs elevating the fruit on a dais. Underneath there is minerality and a lovely texture. The oak sneaks in on the finish, adding texture and mouthfeel. Superb drinking! 95pts.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2020 The minerality here was a feature, with curry leaf notes adding impact. The palate is flooded with ripe, peachy fruit that runs the whole length, and lingers for an age. Superb drinking now, but I can’t help but feel that 3 – 5 years will only see this get even better. 96pts.
Gant & Co – Chardonnay – 2020. Wow, the superb fruit that is very much in the middle ground, with supple peach and nectarine notes complemented by hints of minerals and spice. This wine is a Goldilocks wine. Just right! 95pts.
Voyager Estate – MJW – Chardonnay- 2020. This is a treat. Fine, elegant and restrained, but with a core of ripe fruit running the length of the palate. Excellent depth and a creamy mouthfeel are complemented by zesty/lemony acidity. Just needs a few years to open up and show its best. 95+pts.
Lost Farm – Chardonnay – 2021. Excellent varietal characters in a wine that has richer, riper fruit than I am used to seeing from Tasmania. When combined with the supple winemaking inputs, this makes for excellent drinking. 93pts.
Angove – Wild Olive– Chardonnay- 2021. This was a surprise package from McLaren Vale. Ripe fruit, but in a finer, more elegant expression than I was expecting. Don’t get me wrong, there is plenty of power and intensity, but it is skillfully wrapped up in a supple, understated wine that is spot on for current drinking. 93pts.
The highlights of my tasting month were a pair of Cabernets that were both spectacular, with their different regional characteristics stamped on each, along with another bargain from Aldi.
Wynns 2018 Harold is a superb example of Coonawarra Cabernet. Great purity of fruit combined with subtle, sympathetic winemaking. Peppermint and Cassis play key roles. I liked this so much that I immediately ordered a six-pack for the cellar.
Xanadu’s 2020 estate (black label) Cabernet is defined by the red berry fruit that fans out across the palate. This is a joyous expression of Margaret River Cabernet!
Reviewed
Frankland Estate – Alter Weg – Riesling – 2021. Taut, fine with fruit and acid in the lemony spectrum. On the palate, this really shines. Long and near seamless, with high quality fruit that really fills out on the mid-palate with air. This is in a different style to the Australian norm, with gentle phenolics and subtle worked (barrel ferment) characters. Worth trying to see how different Riesling can be. 93pts – $34.
Freya and Jules 2021
Freya and Jules – Riesling – 2021. This is all floral and pretty, with steely notes, minerals and a hint of pear. There is gentle viscosity which greatly adds to the appeal, yet there are no overt phenolics. Gentle lime acidity adds freshness and vitality. Superb value from Aldi. 92+pts – $9
Leo Buring Leopold 2021
Leo Buring – Leopold – Riesling – 2021. Bright, fresh and really quite delicious. This is packed full of citrus, with just a hint of residual sugar adding balance and adding to the drinkability. Underpinning the high-quality fruit is fine acidity. Different style to the Leonay and very worthwhile. 94pts – $35.
Terre à Terre – Crayers Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc – 2020. This is vibrant, powerful and delicious, with gentle passionfruit, pear and musk flavours lingering for some time. Textural notes add to the mouthfeel and overall enjoyment. Excellent drinking. 91pts.
Myattsfield – Vermentino – 2020. Excellent food wine where there is enough fruit to make the wine interesting, yet the savoury components are the main feature, making this a great all-purpose wine that would be very enjoyable with, or without food. Could be described as semi-aromatic. 91pts
A.C. Byrne – Organic – Shiraz – 2021. The fruit here is supple, succulent and morish. This is supported by excellent structure, good balance and impressive persistence/ length of flavours. At $12, this is great value and could be the perfect mid-week pasta wine for those on a budget. This scored a gold medal from one panellist. 91pts.
Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2019. OMG. This is quite beautiful. Elegant, seductive, succulent, deep, fine, silky and very long. Pristine red berry and cherry fruit. Subtle power emanates from the core, Ethereal. 96+pts
Lost Farm Pinot 2021
Lost Farm – Pinot Noir – 2021. A lovely wine that combines elegant, ripe fruit, with savoury, earthy notes. Minerality and even a touch of sea spray on the close. Lithe, elegant, supple, this builds depth and a slightly chewy texture with air. Very satisfying, if just a little closed at this early stage. Give it a few years. 94pts – $42.
Yeringburg – Pinot Noir – 2019. This was my pick of a strong bracket of Pinots due to its balance of ripe, supple red berry/cherry fruit and fine, savoury, textural notes. There is excellent length and persistence, with gentle spice notes adding to the appeal. Very satisfying straight out of the bottle but was even better a day later. Do not be put off by the pale colour, this is a serious wine. 94+pts.
Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. A bit of wow here, with red berry fruit to the fore on the nose. Supple, ripe red berry fruit floods a palate that is long, fine and energetic., with supple oak and tannins providing the textural framework. This is just so morish, with the fruit fanning out across the palate, unrestrained by oak. A joy. 95.5pts.
Wynns Harold 2018
Wynns – Harold – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. The purity of fruit here is outstanding. This does not have the showy vibrancy of some of the Margaret River wines that we are used to, but it has a quiet confidence in the way that it has captured the essence of Cabernet. Peppermint, cassis and gentle spice all evolve on a seamless palate. Great length of flavours. Beautiful now or in 10 – 20 years. 96pts
Houghton Stripe Range Wines: Unbeatable value in 2022
Barry Weinman: 10th June 2022
Under the ownership of Accolade, there have been a lot of changes at Houghton. But fortunately for wine drinkers, the quality of the wines has not seemed to suffer, be it at the premium end with wines such as Jack Mann, or at the affordable end of the pricing spectrum.
In this tasting, the panel were blown away by the quality of the wines in the stripe range. These wines are excellent everyday drinking, but when you consider that they can be bought for as little as $7 per bottle, they must surely be some of the best value wines sold in Australia.
Ok, so they are not the most serious wines, but for a mid-week pasta night, you can’t go wrong!
Reviewed
Houghton – Stripe Range – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2021. I like the balance of fruit and supple texture here. This is mouth-filling, with gentle viscosity and crunch acidity carrying the length of the palate. Very satisfying drink for when the focus is on the food, or life in general. 89pts.
Houghton – Stripe Range – White Classic – 2021. This is quite neutral on opening, with subtle depth and weight. This is an intriguing wine in that the drinking pleasure it delivers is greater than a sum of its parts. History suggests that a few years in the bottle will see this flesh out nicely. 91pts.
Houghton – Stripe Range – Shiraz – 2018. From an excellent WA vintage, this has bright red berry fruit, with just a touch of earthiness and gentle plum. Savoury spice notes predominate on the palate, with chalky tannins adding texture. Nothing fancy, but a very good drink. 91pts.
Houghton – Stripe Range – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Fresh, vibrant, juicy and succulent. Gentle savoury oak and fine tannins add to the appeal. This could be the perfect mid-week pasta wine for those who don’t want to spend a bomb. 91pts.
To put on a benchmark tasting where your wines are up against some of the country’s finest takes a brave, self-assured winery. The obvious risk is that the comparator’s wines will look better than your own.
The team at Frankland Estate have a quiet confidence in the quality of their wines and did not hesitate to show them alongside a strong line up of comparators. And their wines held their own and then some.
The Isolation Ridge Riesling is in a different style to what we typically see out of Clare or the Great Southern and all the better for it. The gentle residual sugar is a key component in what is a textural treat. The sheer drinkability was a key highlight of the wine.
The evolution in style of the Isolation Ridge Shiraz/Syrah over the last decade or so was brilliantly demonstrated by tasting the 2015, 2017, 2019 and 2020 side by side. The last two were a real step up in terms of fruit quality and winemaking.
The 2019 was an explosion of ripe, supple fruit, whilst the 2020 was more brooding and introverted. The splash of Viognier appeared to have more of an impact in the 2019.
Somehow, the 2020 Smith Cullam Syrah managed to combine the best of both of these into a magical wine experience. Definitely worth trying. #franklandestate #isolationridge #smithcullam
Bracket 1: Classics
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard – Riesling – 2021. A drier year that produced pristine fruit. The nose has a wonderful combination of fresh, aromatic fruit and complex winemaking inputs. Ripe, with fine acidity and superbly judged residual sugar, the intensity is a revelation. The finish is textured and long, with great density. Apricot, almond, pear, nectarine and floral honeysuckle all make an appearance.
The style moved to a slightly riper expression where the fruit can shine. Components were left on lees for up to six months in tank, and barrel ferment was used for a small portion of the fruit.
Crawford River – Riesling – 2021. The aromatics here are a highlight. Apricot fruit and supple richness make for a compelling drink, even if it does not have the absolute power of the Isolation Ridge. An understated wine that really builds in the glass.
Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2021. Pristine and fine. Scintillating acidity and taut structure, yet fine and restrained at the same time. A superb wine in a very different style, that looked just a bit awkward in this line up as the style is so different.
Christmann Gimmeldingen – Riesling – (Village) – 2020. This was a bit overwhelmed in this line up.
Bracket 2: Off dry
Frankland Estate – Smith Cullam – Riesling – 2021. Very similar profile to the Isolation Ridge, but with the floral aromatics turned down a touch, and the textural components turned up. For me, this really needs a few years to really open up but is a super wine all the same.
Heymann-Löwenstein – Schieferterrassen Bohème – 2018. Wow. The aromatics here are amazing, and really quite foreign to anything made in Australia. Intense, powerful, savoury and complex. The palate is a little more mainstream, with lovely acidity playing against the residual sugar. Viscous and mouthcoating, the texture is a highlight. Quite superb.
Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter – Kabinett Trocken – 2020. The balance here is a highlight. The fruit here is much more preserved. But lacks the sheer depth and power of the previous wines.
Loosen Barry – Wolta Wolta – Riesling – 2019. Drier, very intense and very powerful. But the finish is quite closed at present. Would be wonderful with food, or with ten years in the cellar. Possibly the most expensive Riesling made in Australia.
Bracket 3: Isolation Ridge Vineyard Vertical
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard – Shiraz 2015. Pristine fruit, with hints of spice, menthol and eucalypt. White pepper to the fore over cherry and satsuma plum fruit. Excellent balance and mouthfeel.
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard – Syrah 2017. The spice is turned up, complemented by sweet fruit that floods the palate. Large format oak allows the fruit to shine. Pretty and vibrant, yet with greater mid-palate density and texture. Lovely mouthfeel and excellent length of flavours aided by a small proportion of whole bunch fermentation.
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard – Syrah 2019. Wow. This is quite special. The sweet, ripe fruit is still the focus, but the savoury, spicy components really make an impact. There are lovely musk and pear notes that run the length of the palate. Aromatic, floral and quite spectacular. Small amount of Viognier and Mourvèdre add impact, as does a component of whole-bunch fermentation. 95+pts seems only fair.
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard Syrah 2020. Quite a different expression of Frankland Shiraz. Here the aromatics are less overt, whilst the structure is the focus and the fruit taut, fine, unyielding. With air, the intense, dense and powerful fruit really shines. Despite the power, structure and almost chewy texture., this somehow remains near seamless. Only 6% whole bunch in this vintage. 95 – 96pts.
Bracket 4: Benchmark Shiraz
Frankland Estate – Smith Cullam – Syrah – 2020. This is a special wine, combining the aromatics of the 2019 Isolation ridge, with the depth of the 2020. Yet, at its core, this is elegant and very fine. It offers the opportunity to be appreciated young, but also possesses excellent ageability. The tannin management is a highlight. A magical wine. 96pts.
Craggy Range – Le Sol – Shiraz – 2019. A very contrasting style where the oak (37% new) is much more noticeable, but in no way overpowering. This is a traditional new world red with ripe, structured fruit, along with excellent depth and power. But this is a long-term prospect…
Domaine Ogier – Côte Rotie – Mon Village – 2018. Did not show well on the day. Shaw and Smith – Balhannah – Shiraz – 2019. A very interesting contrast. Another cooler climate shiraz, but here there is a degree of textural plushness that stands it apart. Virtually seamless, the fruit less overt, whilst the texture is key indicator of quality. Superb, but needs years…
Final wines
Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge – Riesling – 2012. A museum release that is only available in tiny quantities. Lovely toast and aromatics on both the nose and palate. A classic aged Australian Riesling. This really benefited from time in the glass, so a quick swirl in a decanter is probably in order to get the best out of this wine.
Frankland Estate – Alter Weg – Riesling – 2021. I love this wine. So complex and powerful, with great depth and colour.
