Category Archives: Italian – Wine Reviews

A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes From Italy

Over the next few weeks, I will dedicate this column to sangiovese as I am in Tuscany after all, which is the home of the great wine. Sangiovese really is king in these parts.

I should mention however that sangiovese is known by many other names. This is partly due to the many different clones of the variety, but also due to the fact that each region and sub-region tends to know it by a different name. Its synonyms include Morellino (di Scansano), Brunello (di Montalcino), Montepulciano (Vino Nobile di…), Tignolo and Prugnolo. Even Sagrantino di Montefalco from neighbouring Umbria, is largely Sangiovese.

Sangiovese can be found on its own or blended with other varieties, both within and outside of the DOC system. Just because a wine is made out of sangiovese and comes from within a specific region (Chianti Classico, for example), it does not mean it will qualify to be sold as a DOC wine. It has to fulfil all the requirements of the DOC system to do so. There will be more about that in a subsequent article on Chianti Classico.

In Chianti, its traditional bedfellows are Canaiolo and Ciliegolo. It is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in Carmignano (about which I will dedicate a whole other article to) and in the so-called Super Tuscans.

Before I arrived in Italy, I viewed sangiovese as a variety characterized by being of a lighter style. I had been aware that extraction could be difficult, and that its core manifestation (in, say, Chianti Classico) was of cherry fruit and medium tannins, producing a fairly linear and uncomplicated wine. Indeed, this is a particularly delicious incarnation, and accompanies many foods, climes and moods!

But I have come to realize that, with different clonally selection, viticulture, vinification techniques (especially in relation to extraction – time and temperature of fermentation, extended maceration and barrel fermentation) and, of course, terroir, sangiovese has myriad expressions. Even two Chianti Classici will never be identical.

I will include some tasting notes below of a selection of wines, tasted at various tastings, which will not fall into categories of subsequent articles.

Salvioni – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2001 (17.5). This was a wonderful wine, and even given its age, was a touch closed. It had core fruit flavours of dark fruits, with plum coming to the fore, in a complex, savoury frame. Would have continued to improve for 5 years +.

Fontodi – Flaccianello della Pieve – IGT 1994 (18). This is the top wine from the Fontodi stable, which also produces a fantastic Chianti Classico (more in the article on that sub region). 100% Sangiovese from their best sites, the age of the wine was evident on tasting, but it retained fruit and tannins, with a silky mouth feel.

Caprai – Sagrantino di Montefalco – DOCG – 1995 (17.5). A very, if not the most, important Sagrantino, the Caprai name was synonymous with the revival of Umbria’s vinous reputation. Again age did not extinguish fruit expression, with a mint and spiciness adding to its attractiveness.

Percarlo (San Giusto a Rentenanno) – IGT – 1998 (18). Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is another 100% Sangiovese wine labeled as an IGT. I was impressed with the prune fruit flavours and, when the wine opened fully, how they mingled with spicy flavours consisting of cinnamon and cloves in particular.

Asinone – – DOCG – 1999 (18.5). The Poliziano vineyards are located mainly in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano selezione’ (Poliziano)Montepulciano, and the Asinone is a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (there is a lesser wine in the range which is also a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, but it is not labelled ‘selezione’). Wow! A wonderfully complex wine, with fruit, spice and oak now in perfect balance to give a silky mouth feel.

The above provides just a hint of the wonderful sangiovese discoveries I have been making. I must acknowledge my new friends in the tasting group I have joined. They are as knowledgeable, generous, down to earth and hospitable as any of the groups I have belonged to in the past. They are also the source of many of the wines listed above.

Ciao,

Brendan Jansen

Cecilia Winery on the Island of Elba

Lorenzo Camerini’s uncle, Giuseppe, bought the vineyards and winery of Azienda Agricola Cecilia in 1945. At the time, the price of land and property was cheaper, before the big tourist boom of recent times caused prices to become astronomical, and for the most part, unattainable. Giuseppe set out to make wines of character and quality, and though originally from Milan, he attempted to maintain Elba’s long tradition of the passito or drying method, particularly in the making of dessert style wines.

Elba has a long and rich tradition of winemaking. At one time almost 50% of the 7000 ha of the land that constitutes the island was under vine. Wines from Elba were well known, highly prized and sought after. Now less than 200 ha remain. Partly laid to waste during the post World War II economic crisis, the focus is now on the tourism industry. This makes the reclamation of these areas for vineyards both difficult and economically prohibitive.

Lorenzo has taken over the business from his uncle, and plays the role of viticulturalist. Vittorio Fiore is the winemaker (enologo) and the results are impressive. Though there are other producers of quality on Elba (Sapereta and Acquabona in particular), Cecilia is widely regarded as the best producer on the island, selling most of its production on Elba, but exporting as far as New York. It is for this reason my Australian mate and I arranged a visit.

Elba is beautiful, and can be reached by an hour-long boat ride from the township of Piombino on the Tuscan coast. (If you are travelling by car, add another hour at least to join the disorganised queues to get on the boat!) It is probably volcanic in its origins, which explains why its tallest peak, despite its small size, is over 1000m in height. Nonetheless, it has very varied soil types, from clay to loam to hard rock rich in iron (which was mined in times dating back to the Etruscans).

Elba’s history is a rich one, and it is, perhaps, most famous for having been the place to which Napoleon was exiled by a coalition of his opponents. It must take an Emperor, even if self proclaimed, to be exiled to a place as beautiful as Elba. Nonetheless, about a year later, he escaped, to continue his conquests for almost another year, until he, quite literally, met his Waterloo.

Lorenzo met us out of office hours, and immediately took us for a tour of his 3 vineyard sites. The sites epitomized the soil differences above, and Lorenzo is experimenting with new varieties and clones in the different sites.

The principal white varieties at the moment are Trebbiano, Vermentino, Ansonica, and what we call Frontignac (or Muscat), with the reds being Shiraz, Sangiovese and Aleatico.

I have come to believe that it is difficult to produce a Vermentino or Trebbiano of interest, in Tuscany at least. Lorenzo’s examples were clean and crisp, lean and fresh. They would be great aperitifs. His Ansonica, another indigenous grape variety of Italy, was fuller, with more tropical fruit flavours including pineapple, and would be an ideal accompaniment to an Asian or seafood dish. All the white wines were unoaked and all were from the 2008 vintage. My points for the whites were 16 (Trebbiano), 16 (Vermentino) and 16.5 (Ansonica).

The reds start with an unoaked Sangiovese (called their Rosso, from 2007) that was the essence of cherries – light, bright and refreshingly crisp (16.5 pts). Lorenzo plans to make a more sophisticated Sangiovese in the coming year or two, with oak treatment and greater extraction.

For now his flagship red is his syrah, and we tried the 2005. Having a palate accustomed to Shiraz, I was pleasantly surprised by the wine. It had plum and blackberry fruit characters that reminded me of moderate to warm climate shiraz from back home. Though without the leathery touches of a Hunter Shiraz, it had enough of an acid backbone to suggest it would only get better in the next 5-8 years. I liked it, and so too did Robert Parker. (18 pts).

The sweet wines were both made in the passito method. Grapes are left on the vine for as long as possible and then dried for an average of two weeks on wooden racks. The shriveled berries are then crushed – in the case of the Aleatico, fermented on its skins, and the Moscato, as per a white wine.

The fermentation is stopped at 15% to produce wines of sweetness yet complexity. The Moscato (2007) had its usual floral nose but a lovely dry finish. 18 pts. The Aleatico’s (2006) complexity derived from a floral spiciness undercut by chewy tannins and wonderful length. I imagine the Aleatico will live for many years yet. 18.5 pts.

The future looks bright for Cecilia. Vine age of the syrah vines is only 12 years so the best is yet to come. I called his establishment a “boutique winery” – it produces between 40,000 and 50,000 bottles annually, and the wines are of the highest order – Lorenzo seemed to like that. Brendan Jansen

A Visit to Terrabianca

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy by Brendan Jansen

Number One – July 2009

Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical ties to Italy. He also lists himself as the viticulturalist. The winemaker is Vittorio Fiore, a well-known and highly skilled oenologist from the region.

The company produces 350,000 bottles annually. The property consists of over 120 ha of land, comprising about 15 ha under vine and a significant olive tree plantation, at a level over 250m above sea level, in both Chianti, and Maremma, further south in Tuscany and closer to the ocean. Its name (Terrabianca) is derived from the whitish soils of the area in Chianti, which are due to the combination of sand, clay and chalk.

As we drove towards the property, we passed busloads of most likely British, German and American tourists visiting large establishments in the area. Francesco, my friend and point of entrée into the tasting, lamented that many of the larger wineries made lakes, if not oceans, of mediocre wine, assisted by the “Chianti” name, and feeding off the resurgence of interest in Italian wine. Viticulturally, grapes of moderate quality are turned into half decent wine by paid consultants, producing Chianti with an unexciting sameness.

Our arrival at Terrabianca coincided with the final stages of a tasting involving a visiting Brazilian importer. After they had left the full range of wines that Terrabianca produce was open and at our disposal. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are the major grape varieties grown, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano. We focused on reds at the tasting.

La Fonte – 2007. This is a 100% Sangiovese wine with 6 months of oak, from vineyards further south in Tuscany, outside the Chianti region, in Maremma, Grossetto. My notes say, “This has cherries and some savoury characters, good length and structure.” I can understand why this is their “house wine” – is a ripper. It has 13.5% alcohol, and I gave it 16.5 pts.

Scassino – 2007. (Chianti Classico) 97% Sangiovese with 3% Canaiolo. This has spent 8 months in oak. It is the quintessence of Chianti Classico, with cherries and some plum flavours. At 13% alcohol, it seemed a bigger wine than the La Fonte, but still an ideal match for spicy food and even fish. 17 pts

Croce – 2005. (Chianti Classico) DOCG Riserva. With the same grape combination as the Scassino, this has spent 15 months in oak, making it more mellow and softer. It was, however, a darker and denser wine with a greater dose of dark/stewed fruit. 17.5 pts

Campaccio – 2005. A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet component was immediately evident, with capsicum and cassis notes, but with a lovely meaty, savoury undertow. It has had 12 months of oak treatment, and needs time to allow the wonderful acid and structure to integrate. I loved this wine, and so did Robert Parker a few years ago. 18 pts

Campaccio “Selezione” Riserva – 2004. With a higher Cabernet component (50%) and 24 months of oak treatment, this was a wonderfully deep and unctuous wine with chewy tannins and again that savoury edge. It struck me that Italians do with Sangiovese what we in Australia do with Shiraz – fill the Cabernet ‘doughnut’ with dark fruit while clinging to the structure that Cabernet Sauvignon offers, to create their Super-Tuscans. This has a long life ahead of it. – 18.5 pts.

Cipresso – 2005. We moved on to an interesting set of wines. The first was another 100% Sangiovese wine but not labeled as Chianti Classico and therefore not a DOCG, but an IGT wine. Savoury notes were evident as were the plum, cherry and berry flavours. This time, some liquorice and fennel added to the spiciness. The mouth-feel was wonderful, and belied the commonly held belief that extraction is difficult with Sangiovese. This too has a long life ahead of it – if waiting is possible. 18.7 pts

Il Tesoro (Merlot) – 2005. This 100% Merlot was like few Australian Merlots I have tasted (barring perhaps the Three Hills Merlot from Happs). From their southerly and more maritime vineyards, the differences between day and night time temperatures have added to the acid and structure. The nougat and almond flavours probably derive from the oak treatment, and though not off putting, will further integrate with time. 18 pts

Ceppate – 2005. This is a Cabernet dominant wine (90%) with the rest being Merlot. This wine was closed and fruit flavours had to be coaxed out of it with heavy swirling and time. A classic Bordeaux style, with the addition of more perfume on the nose than I have been used to, this too demands time. 17.5 pts

We completed the tasting by sampling the extra virgin olive oil produced by Terrabianca – a classic Tuscan style – strong and peppery, with hints of citrus – to light up any salad or loaf of bread you would choose to have with it. What did I learn from the tasting? Firstly, Sangiovese, with its many (13 clones) is a versatile variety, and in the right hands, extraction to produce complex and powerful red wine is possible. (Sangiovese is known by many names – it is the Morellino from Scansano, the Brunello from Montepulciano, and even the Sagrantino from neighbouring Montefalco in Umbria is thought to be related).

Secondly, if I were an importer, this is the kind of producer I would deal with. Expert viticulture, modern winemaking facilities, great quality fruit, and every wine in the stable exceptional at its price point.

What is the cost of the wine? Well, in Italy, unlike Australia, wine is cheaper at the cantina or winery. So the wines ranged from 10 Euro for the La Croce, to 36 Euro for the Campaccio Riserva and the Ceppate. What did I buy? A dozen each of the Cipresso and the Campaccio – at 20 Euro a bottle.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

NB. My visit there was organized by my friend Francesco, who knows the current marketing manager of the establishment.

Lamont’s – Direct Imports

12 September 2010

Lamont’s in Cottesloe has received another shipment of imported wines. Apparently they are importing the wines direct from Europe, thus cutting out the middle-men. The prices range from good to excellent for the given quality, with the Italian selection being particularly good value.

Wines from Burgundy have become so expensive in general, that even at these ex-ship prices, they are quite pricey, though there is still some value to be found.

My picks include the Bonon – Meursalt, Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba, Araldica – Barbera d’Ast and the Arpatin – Barolo.

This was not a blind tasting, so I have tried not to be too generous with my points. With the reds, I could have been more generous with my points, but because we were only trying one or two wines from each style, I was conscious of the lack of perspective. Be assured that these are good wines.

Tasted

White Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Les Tillets – 2008 (17.8). Minerals to the fore, with complex almond meal, cashew nut and lemony oak. The palate is very rich and textured, with slightly honeyed fruit. The length is a highlight and the oak is not obtrusive. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Meursalt – Clos de la Velle – 2006 (17.9). Much finer and closed compared to the Bonin. Develops nutty fruit and minerals with air. In the mouth, this is creamy, seamless, textured and very fine indeed. The fruit is subdued. One for the purists! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots 1er Cru – 2006 (18.3). Lovely refined nose, with minerally, textural components overlaying curry leaf and creamy oak. The palate really builds in the mouth, but this remains very elegant and fine. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Charmes 1er Cru – 2007 (17.4). Interestingly, this has all the components of a good white burgundy, yet I preferred the Les Tillets! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Phillippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Les Pucelles 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Classic nose. Complex, yet refined, this is more restrained than some here. There is almond and apricot fruit notes intertwined with creamy textural components. The power on the palate is a revelation, yet this remains very fine and seamless. Superb wine! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18). From one of my favourite appellations. More peachy fruit on the nose, this is all about refinement. There is a minerality to the palate, with excellent balance and length. This is a very subtle wine. (Chardonnay).

Red Burgundy

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2008 (16.8). A good entry level burgundy, with simple fruit characters. The mouth-feel, fruit and texture are all good.

Domaine Philippe Livera – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2007 (17.9). More complex nose displaying plum, blueberry and earthy notes that combine well. Lovely fruit on the palate, and real depth. This is quite seamless, long and taught. A lovely example.

Domaine Humbert Freres – Gevery Chambertain – Poissenot 1er Cru – 2007 (18.2). Complex, but quite closed. Develops lovely perfumed fruit, reminiscent of violets. The palate is closed and tight, yet delicate and very fine. Superb length and texture, the refinement is the key.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Vosne Romanee – Les Suchots 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Complex and earthy, this has licorice, tar, cinnamon, spice and raspberry fruit. The fruit characters are more pronounced on the palate, with incredibly fine tannins. The oak has been absorbed by the fruit. This has superb length and depth, and the finish fans out across the palate beautifully.

Italian

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba – Superiore – 2008 (17). Lovely cherry fruit with tar and licorice on the nose. This is a fruit driven wine that is fresh, vibrant, juicy, soft and thoroughly refreshing. A modern style and great value.

Poderi Alasia – Barbera d’Asti – Rive (Il Cascinone) – 2007 (17.3). More savoury and earthy, with licorice, spice and lots of pepper. The palate is reminiscent of cool climate shiraz, with peppery fruit, that is long, textured and structured. There is leathery fruit to close.

Frascole – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.4). Cherry fruit to open, but briary and dense, with leather and spice. The palate is dominated by spicy fruit and drying tannins. A good example, and organic to boot!

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.8). More complex, with more fruit weight than the Frascole. This is very textured and structured in a traditional style where the fresh fruit notes are exchanged for mouth-feel and structure. Another organic wine, but this is crying out for food. Good value!

– d’Annona – Barbera d’Asti- 2007 (17.8). Wow – this has an exciting nose displaying cherry, tobacco, plums, cedar and anise. This keeps evolving. This is a powerful wine where fruit, oak and tannins combine to coat the palate with an amalgam of flavours and textures. Will be even better in a year or two.

Arpatin – Barbaresco – 2006 (17.5). More savoury, with real density. There is licorice all sorts on the nose. Typical of the style, this is textured and has really chewy tannins. Whist the tannins are fine, they are formidable. 10 years +.

Arpatin – Barolo – 2005 (17.8). Savoury, with dark fruits, cherry, coffee and tar. The palate is really dense and chewy. The tannins are finer than the Barbaresco. This is great value, but needs at least 10 years to show its best.

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Closed. Pristine fruit, silky tannins and excellent texture. Superb mouth-feel and tremendous depth, this is fine and dense. (Not cheap though).