Current Releases Pinot: January 2021

Barry Weinman: 31^st January 2021.

Since Christmas, we have been busy tasting a number of different varieties and styles and there have been several highlights that I will share over the coming weeks.

First up, the panel looked at a cross-section of Pinots from across the globe and were pleased to see quality wines on show from Australia and New Zealand, as well as a couple of great value Premier Cru Burgundies available form Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

Across the board, the food-friendly nature of the wines was a feature.

Reviewed

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – Givry – Premier Cru – Les Bois Chevaux – 2015. Supple perfumed Burgundian fruit with earthy notes adding complexity. The palate is elegant and lithe, with depth and subtle power sitting behind the fruit. Great drinking with food now, but really needs a few years to open up. Very well made. Premier Cru Burgundy from a great year for under $50 is a bargain! 91pts – $49 from Lamont’s Cottesloe.

Domaine Thenard – Pernand-Vergelesses – Ile Des Vergelesses – Premier Cru – Pinot Noir – 2014. More serious and structured than the Givry, with greater density of fruit. Complex, savoury and structured, this is an excellent food wine. But will also improve with a few years in bottle. Again, excellent value. 92 pts – $60

Escarpment – Noir – Pinot Noir – 2018. Quite pretty and perfumed, with high quality cherry-like fruit. Impeccable balance, seamless palate transition, fine tannins, acid and oak sitting in behind the fruit adding texture and depth without overt flavours. Almost pretty, but more serious than that. Now – 5 years. 92+pts – $60.

Batista – Pinot Noir – Angelina – 2016. Light and fresh, with good varietal characters. Straightforward and approachable, but that said, the fruit lingers admirably and builds with air. Supple and savoury, with earthy hints, this is good drinking. 90pts.

Batista – Pinot Noir – 2018. Pretty, elegant and vibrant, but with a core of dense fruit at its heart. Not flashy or showy, but very enjoyable. A modern, fresh Pinot that needs a few years to allow the tannins to soften. 92pts – $45

Picardy – Tête de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2017. Pretty, vibrant fruit that is balanced by souring cherry-like acidity and fine, savoury tannins from the fruit and oak. This is the most serious and powerful wine of the tasting, yet retains approachability, thanks to the delicious fruit. Long, complex and fine, drink this whilst waiting for the brilliant 2018. 93+pts – $70

Champagne Bargains: January 2021

Barry Weinman: 31st January 2021

Almost everyone loves Champagne and sparkling wine. There is a touch of mystique, an air of celebration and sense of achievement. But this all comes at a cost. There is no such thing as a cheap Champagne!
But having tried a cross-section of wines currently available, there are a number of bargains out there. (I have ordered a 6 pack of each of the below, given how good the prices are).

Piper Heidsieck – 2012 – Vintage Champagne. $61.75
There are small stocks of the brilliant 2008 available in some stores, but the 2012 is widely available and is almost as good. This is good value at the usual price, but First Choice has this for an unbelievable $61.75 in any six pack.
The great news is that Dan Murphy and Vintage Cellars will both price match this!

Charles Heidsieck – Brut Reserve – NV. $77
This is my benchmark NV Champagne and the sparkling wine that I have drunk the most of over the last few years. Winesquare has this for only $77/bottle. You will need to call Rosa direct on 02 9098 8600 or email rosa@winesquare.com.au and mention that you heard about it through Fine Wine Club.

Laurent Perrier – Vintage – 2008. $85
This is a fine, taut, age-worthy style from the brilliant 2008 vintage, and Winesquare has this for under $85. To me, this is a wine that would really benefit from five years in the cellar, so perhaps buy something else if you want current drinking pleasure. Again, you will need to call Rosa direct on 02 9098 8600 or email rosa@winesquare.com.au and mention that you heard about it through Fine Wine Club.

Veuve Monsigny – Premier Cru – NV. $30
This Aldi exclusive is made by Philizot & Fils and is an outstanding wine for the $30 price. Fine, elegant and with decent length, it ticks all the boxes. Sure, it is not overly complex, but it is refreshing and moreish. A no-brainer.

Whilst not on a huge special, these Australian wines need to be included in this review, as they offer value (and quality) equal or greater than any of the French wines reviewed.
Any sparkling wine by Sittella. The winery is out of stock of their two top wines but the excellent Cuvée Blanc is still in stock at Dan Murphy
Any wine made by Arras. If you can’t afford the Grand Vintage, then the Brut Elite (labelled 15/01 on the neck capsule) is a brilliant alternative.

Reviews

Piper Heidsieck – Vintage – 2012. Altogether more complex and deeper than the NV, with rich brioche and dough characters. A lively mousse gives way to a palate which is finer and more elegant, with subtle berry fruit notes and a touch of pear. The finish is a delight, with supple texture, fine acidity, excellent persistence and length. An excellent follow-up to the 2008 and a tremendous bargain when on sale. 93pts – $90

Charles Orban – Blanc de Blancs – NV. Pale yellow colour, and fine mousse notable in the glass. Restrained and taut, with a slightly chewy texture, this has intrinsic depth and structure. An impressive wine that is excellent value (Dan Murphy/BWS). 92pts – $55.

Veuve Monsigny – Premier Cru – NV. This is quite excellent. Fine and elegant, with ripe citrus acidity and very good length. Not complex, but very satisfying. I would be pleased to have another glass. Brilliant value at $30 from Aldi. 91pts – $30

BBQ Buddies

Barry Weinman: 24^th December 2020

Now that the warm weather is well and truly set in for the summer, my mind turns to that great Australian tradition called the BBQ.

Whilst sausages and overcooked steak still make an appearance, the BBQ is now being treated as a serious culinary experience by many Australians.

Wood-fired BBQs, marinated roasts, seared seafood and spiced vegetables are just some of the items making an appearance.

And as our culinary experience associated with the BBQ has changed, so too has the beverages we consume as part of the occasion. VB and Emu Export have been swapped to craft beers and deliciously flavoured, high-quality red wines.

A work of caution though. Your BBQ wines need the same care and attention as the steaks and seafoods that you are serving. Heat is your enemy! A hot BBQ and a warm day leads to warm wine.

As a wine warms, the fruit loses its finesse and freshness and the alcohol becomes more prominent.

Consider popping your reds into the fridge for 30 minutes before serving, and returning it to the fridge intermittently throughout the afternoon.

Shiraz

Shingleback – The Gate – Shiraz– 2018. Purple! Dense and inky, with an undercurrent of ripe fruit and liquorice that is balanced and poised. I love the supple, slightly savoury fruit and fine, polished tannins. Gets a little chewy on the close, but never loses the silkiness. Excellent fruit and winemaking. Age-worthy. 94pts – $40.

Salena Estate – ex-PRESS.ion – Shiraz – 2019. Precise and focussed fruit complemented by coffee and mocha notes. The palate is an explosion of deliciously ripe fruit, with the tannins and oak adding texture. Not as structured as the Shingleback but more immediately impactful and moreish. An affordable, well-made user-friendly wine. A BBQ champion from the Barossa. 93pts – $30

Shingleback – The Gate – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2018. Ripe berry and current, with supple oak support. Perfectly ripe fruit on the palate is silky and fine, with the Cabernet adding structure. The finish is long, supple and elegant, with a drying, textural finish that gets a touch chewy. An impressive wine that deserves time in the cellar. 95+pts – $40.

Cabernet

Oates Ends – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Pretty, fragrant and approachable with hints of violet and cassis. The palate has blueberry and currant notes, with supple, savoury oak adding spice and texture. The balance and length are noteworthy. Not the most powerful wine, and all the better for it. 93pts.

Voyager Estate – The Modern – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Fragrant, ripe and pretty, with a core of berry fruit. The palate is supple, silky, and textured, with near seamless palate transition. Medium bodied in weight, this is a wonderful drink now but ultimately will benefit from a few years in the cellar. 93pts – $45.

Balnaves – The Tally – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. Aromas of berry and menthol stamp this wine as Coonawarra. Depth, texture and power, supported by supple and refined tannins and oak. Closed, tight and ungiving. This wine has a very long future. 95+pts.

Sparkling Wines for Summer

Barry Weinman: 23^rd December 2020

The majority of sparkling wine produced is non-vintage, and this is for good reason. By blending years, producers can make a more consistent (house) style, less impacted by the vagaries of vintage-to-vintage variations in quality that can occur.

Whilst Champagne producers like Krug and Charles Heidsieck take this to extremes by blending twenty or more base wines into each release, the reality for most a little different.

The majority of most blends is made from a single vintage, with small amounts of reserve wines added for depth and consistency.

In Australia, many producers (particularly at lower price points) do not have a reserve program, so their NV is actually from a single year, just without the label.

This is not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean that there can be significant differences in the wine from one release to the next depending on the conditions. So the taste of your favourite bubbles will change over time.

The challenge for consumers is that the labelling does not change, making differences hard to pick. But some producers are making life easier.

Arras Brut Elite has a number on the neck capsule that gives a clue. The current release is labelled 15/01. 15 indicates that it is from the 2015 vintage, whilst 01 indicates the first disgorgement. A superb wine for $40.

Aldi have released two new Yellowglen wines at $8 that are bargains if you need cheap bubbles. The Rosé is my pick. Not overly complex or interesting, but perfectly drinkable for the price.

Reviewed

Quartz Reef – Brut – Méthode Traditionelle – NV. Fragrant, bright, and balanced, with decent texture. Whilst relatively neutral, this is light, fresh and moreish, with gentle toast and brioche notes building on the finish. 62% Pinot Noir/38% Chardonnay. Biodynamically produced. 17.5pts – $40.

Bellabonne – Vintage Rosé – 2017. Colour tinged with salmon pink. Easy to overlook, given how good drinking this is, but there is real depth here. Gentle autolytic characters, supple spice notes and gentle strawberry fruit all swirl in the glass. The finish is supple, balanced and precise, with enough depth to take lighter foods. 17.8pts – $60

Yellowglen – Rosé – Chardonnay, Pinot & Prosecco – NV. This has a most attractive pink hue and is fresh and lively, with exuberant fruity. Not complex or overly dry, but this is an $8 sparkling from Aldi that is actually drinkable. Go figure. 16pts – $8.

Delamotte – Brut – NV. A step up in complexity. Lithe and fresh, with a moderate dosage and driving acidity. A fine, elegant wine with excellent mouthfeel and presence. Excellent length supported by a bitter almond finish that adds to the appeal. 18pts – $75

Alexandre Bonnet – Grande Reserve Brut – NV. A richer, more developed style than the Delamotte that whilst complex, remains taut and fresh with fine acid drive and gentle texture to close. Delicious and moreish, with brioche notes to the fore. 18pts – $70

Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

My wine week has involved tastings across a number of styles, including sparkling wines and Shiraz. I will write about some of these in coming weeks, but I wanted to share a couple of refreshing wines for spring, as well as two Australian classics.

Aylesbury have produced a vibrant and smashable 2020 Gamay (89pts – $30). This is in the nouveau style that preserves juicy fruit. A fun wine.

If Rosé is your thing, then Oakway’s 2020 il vino Rosato (88pts – $25) is worth a look. Bright and fresh with a refreshing saline tang. Bring on the antipasto.

Shaw & Smith played an important role in putting Australian Sauvignon Blanc on the map. The 2020 (92pts – $29) is fresh and lively and another cracking drink.

Reviewed

Marri Wood Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2019. Lifted melon, stone fruit and grassy notes that leads to lemon fruit and acidity that build on the finish. The texture of the palate is a highlight, courtesy of the supple lees and barrel influences. Most importantly, this is a good drink. 17.8/20 (92pts) $28.

Tahbilk – Marsanne – 2020. Aromatic and lifted, with sherbet, musk and floral fruit. Really quite delicious, if a little linear at present. Experience suggests that with bottle age, the palate will fill out and gain complexity and texture, transforming the wine. An Australian classic and a bargain to boot.  17/20 (89pts) $16.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 2018. Another amazing wine under this historic label. Intense, pretty floral fruit, that is elegant, balanced, refined and very long.  With a supple and textured mouth-feel, this is delicious now but also sure to build depth and power in the cellar. 18.3/20 (94pts) $40.

Shaw & Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2020. Fresh and lively, with pristine fruit. Excellent balance aided by zesty acidity and near seamless palate transition. Aiming for lightness on the palate rather than density, and a rewarding drink. 17.8/20 (92pts).

St Aiden – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2020. Dry and savoury with delicious ripe tropical fruit and gentle viscosity. Think green guava, passionfruit and pineapple, with a hint of musk, citrus and hint of saline tang. From Ferguson. 17.5/20pts (91pts) $20.

Smallwater Estate – Unwooded Chardonnay – 2020. This is well made, with decent fruit and texture, aided by gentle viscosity that adds mouth-feel. I would rather drink this than most NZ SB on a warm afternoon. 17/20 (89pts) $22

Aylesbury – Gamay – Q05 – 2020.  Vibrant and smashable. The souring cherry fruit adds texture, attractive astringency and souring acidity. A nouveau style full of berry fruit. 17/20 (89pts) $30    

Oakway Estate – Nero D’Avola – Il Vino Rosato – 2020. Made as a Rosé, this has an attractive pale salmon colour. Bright and fresh, with a supple saline tang and mouth-watering acidity. Almost chewy in texture, this could take some food. 16.8/20 (88pts) $25.

Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

Let’s be clear: glasses make a difference in two important ways.

The shape primarily affects the aromas that you perceive coming out of the wine related to surface area, as well as how the aromas are concentrated at the top. But the shape also plays an important role in where the wine lands on your tongue, which affects flavour perception as well.

The second important feature of a good glass is the presence of a cut rim. Cheap glasses tend to have a rolled rim, which theoretically makes the glass stronger and is presumably cheaper to make. The rolled rim works like a speed bump for the wine, impeding the smooth flow of wine onto your tongue.

A cut rim, however, delivers the wine onto the palate in a precise fashion, impacting on what flavour characteristics are perceived first.

If money is not an issue, then several companies will happily sell you a different glass for each type of wine that you are drinking.  But not only is this very expensive, it is also impractical, as over the course of a dinner party, you will go through dozens of glasses.

I have been doing extensive research over the last few months and came to a surprising conclusion: there is no single glass that is perfect. They all accentuate slightly different characteristics of a wine.

In general, a glass should be tulip shaped, so that the aromas are concentrated at the top. But the shape of the bowl affects the fruit characters. A wider bowl accentuates the berry aromas, whilst a narrower bowl tends to accentuate the structure (making the wine more tannic).

I also prefer a glass with a stem. Picking the glass up by the stem prevents the bowl from getting dirty, ensuring the wine looks as good at the end of the evening as it did at the start. But importantly, by using the stem, it stops your hand from warming up the wine too quickly.

Glasses do not need to be expensive. You can buy perfectly acceptable glasses from the big chains for only a few dollars per glass.

For me, the best all-purpose glass is the Riedel Vinum Riesling Grand Cru/Zinfandel glass. ($40). It makes everything from Champagne to Shiraz taste good, is attractive and is easy to fit into the dishwasher. I have been using this for years at home, and it is surprisingly durable.

For poolside entertaining, the Plumm Unbreakable Red+ ($40 for a set of four) is a versatile glass made from unbreakable polycarbonate. An excellent, affordable compromise.

NB. Whilst a good glass may be a bit more expensive, it is a small investment compared to the cost of the wines that you will put in it over its lifetime. If it only makes a small improvement to the enjoyment of the wine, then this is still a good investment.

Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

Wondering what to get the wine-fanatic in your life for Christmas? But don’t want to break the bank? Well here are a few items that I have rigorously tested though the year and that have become part of my wine life at home.

Check online for stockists or try your local independent retailer.

Corkscrew: The Durand®

The secret to a good corkscrew is the length of the screw. A longer screw will reach through to the bottom of the cork, reducing the chance of breakage. For wines older than 20 years though, The Durand® is the only device I use. This ingeniously combines an ah-so style opener with a separate corkscrew.

The ah-so releases the cork from the side of the bottle, whilst the corkscrew holds the cork together and helps remove it from the bottle.

Champagne Stopper

A good champagne stopper is essential to preserve the effervescence of your favourite Champagne or Sparkling wine. The best will keep a half-full bottle fresh for up to a week, but they are not miracle workers.

If you repeatedly remove the stopper to top up glasses, then the wine will go flat regardless. Also, the fuller the bottle, the longer it will last.

If you want a bottle to last more than a day, then I recommend pouring out what is required and then immediately popping on the stopper and putting it back in the fridge.

The two best performing stoppers in my tests were:

AVINA Champagne & Wine Locking Bottle Stopper ($20 from Winesave) is attractive and versatile. This seals so well that the bottle can be laid on its side in the fridge. It is also the only stopper that works with ordinary wine bottles as well if needed. This is my personal favourite.

WAF Brevetti ($25 from Vine & Bubble) is a secure stopper with an excellent seal. This is Tyson Seltzer’s preferred stopper.

Wine Preserver (budget)

There are several brands of wine preservers on the market. These are cans of inert gas. To preserve an open bottle, you simply put a squirt into the open bottle before putting the cork back in.

For best effect, pour out all the wine that you require into a glass or decanter and then immediately put in a squirt of gas. This minimises the amount of oxidation. I have found that young wines will last at least a week if done this way.

This means I can open a decent bottle even if I only want a glass or two, and not have to worry about wasting the rest of the bottle.

I am using Private Preserve Wine Preserver at home.

Wine Preserver (prestige)

For the wine lover that has everything, Coravin (Model 3 from $380) may well be the perfect Christmas gift. This device allows the user to enjoy a glass (or more) of wine from a bottle, without removing the cork.

You insert a needle through the wine’s cork and inject an inert gas. This then forces a corresponding amount of wine out of the bottle and into your glass.

The inert gas will protect the remaining wine, preserving it for consumption days or even weeks later.

A Wolf at the Door

Barry Weinman: 13^th November 2020

I was asked why I continue to review wines from the bigger, more popular wineries. It was suggested that reviewing some of the funky newer producers and styles would be more interesting.

My answer? I review the wines that offer great drinking (or cellaring potential) at their given price point regardless of the producer.

Quality breeds success. Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood and Penfolds are household names because of the consistent quality of wines they produce year after year.

Newer wineries making outstanding wines also gravitate to the top. Examples include Singlefile and Swinney from the Great Southern.

But I would love to hear what you are interested in or would like reviewed. Drop a note to barry@finewineclub.com.au

Wolf Blass is an example of a venerable producer currently making excellent wines. Wolf Blass exploded onto the wine scene in the 1970s, winning the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy in 1974, 1975 & 1976 with consecutive Black Label reds.

Fast forward 45 years and the winery is still producing rich, generous, delicious wines that can offer great value. That it is owned by one of the big players may diminish the romance but does nothing to diminish quality.

The 2017 Black Label and 2016 Platinum Label are outstanding, but the value point in the range is the 2018 Grey Labels. Rich, generous, delicious and a brilliant bargain when on special.

For a Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing experience, try the Flowstone Queen of the Earth Sauvignon Blanc – as powerful and complex as any Chardonnay from Margaret River.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Queen of the Earth – Sauvignon Blanc– 2018. Powerful and overt, with grassy notes, lemon zest and minerality. The palate is more impactful than seamless, with intense grapefruit acidity and supple oak/lees add depth and mouthfeel. An almost saline minerality adds texture. The flavours linger for an age. 18.3/20 (94pts) $50.

Wolf Blass – Grey Label – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz– 2018. Refined and elegant, this is familiar, seductive and intoxicating all at the same time. The palate is quite closed, but shows lovely cinnamon, spice and savoury/textural components. With air the blue fruits build. Should age well and is great value when on sale. 18.5/20 (95pts) $45.

Wolf Blass – Grey Label – Shiraz– 2018. Pretty and ripe, with an intensity and depth to the fruit that is captivating. The palate is supple and silky, with plum, blackcurrant and a touch of liquorice all supported by savoury oak. A near-seamless finish rounds out this rich, generous, irresistible wine. 18.4/20 (94+pts) $45.

Mandoon Estate: Fortune Favours the Brave

Barry Weinman: 30^th October 2020

Ryan Sudano must surely be one of the most fortunate winemakers in Australia. After all, how many winemakers get to design and build their dream winery from scratch as their first task upon joining a venture?

Mandoon Estate was established by the Erceq family in 2009 and the Swan Valley winery was completed in time for the 2010 vintage. Ryan was also fortunate to be given access to high quality fruit from which to craft the Mandoon range of wines. This includes a 100 year-old block of Verdelho attached to the winery, as well as the mature Bramley Research Station vineyard in Margaret River.

Whilst the Swan Valley and Margaret River vineyards provide the majority of the fruit, Shiraz is also sourced from Frankland River.

But luck is only part of the equation. None of this would count for much without a talented winemaker. In just 10 vintages, Ryan has established himself as one of Western Australia’s most successful winemakers, with 88 trophies (primarily in local wine shows) and 167 gold medals awarded to Mandoon Estate wines.

Mandoon Estate has also become somewhat of an oasis for visitors to the Swan Valley. The initial cellar door was opened in 2011, but the owners had bigger plans.

In 2014 an impressive new venue was opened, including a cellar door, brewery, function centre and restaurant. The addition of accommodation in 2017 completed the picture.

The latest wine releases are excellent. The 2016 Research Station Reserve Cabernet should be available in November.

Reviewed

Mandoon Estate– Block 1895 – Verdelho – 2020. The original 1895 plantings are the oldest Verdelho in WA. Opens with lifted pineapple and tropical fruits on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with excellent length and texture supported by zippy citrus acidity. Drink now or cellar for increased complexity. (17.5/20pts – $28).

Mandoon Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay– 2018. Perfectly ripe, but with cooler spectrum grapefruit and melon notes. The palate is mouth-watering, long and delicious, with zesty, lime-juice acidity driving the finish. A few years in bottle will allow the fruit to open, but a lovely drink now. From the cooler Karridale region. (18.3/20pts – $59).

Mandoon Estate – Research Station Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016. Attractive red currant and blackberry fruit that is perfumed and lifted. Ripe berries flood the palate, supported by mint and gentle eucalypt. A wine of power and intensity, with super fine tannins leaving a drying finish, yet this remains remarkably seamless. (18.5+/20 – $TBC)

All that Glitters is not Gold

Barry Weinman: 16^th October 2020

Decanter Magazine recently announced the results of their World Wine Awards. Fraser Gallop was awarded Best in Show for their 2018 Parterre Chardonnay (from almost 1,000 Chardonnays!).

Whilst this is great recognition of the quality of the wine, trophies and gold medals awarded at wine shows need to be looked at in context.

As with this column, they only judge what is available to taste and many wineries refuse to submit wines for judging. The reason for this is twofold.

Firstly, there is the expense involved. Wineries pay a fee for each wine entered and have to submit numerous bottles of wine for assessment. These wines could otherwise be sold commercially.

Secondly, there may be little to be gained from a reputational point of view. No one would be surprised if Penfold’s Grange was awarded the world’s best Shiraz. But there would be surprise and reputational damage if it only received a bronze medal.

Wine shows and reviews are a great guide but have limitations.

A wine in contention for the most unusual wine of 2020 is the utterly delicious April Red from Patritti. Patritti is one of the last suburban wineries in Adelaide, with control over two of the last suburban vineyards.

The historic Marion Vineyard was planted to Grenache and Shiraz in 1907 whilst “Laffer’s Triangle”, on the banks of the Sturt, has old plantings of Pedro Ximinez.

The April Red is a delicious blend of these vineyards and is the first red wine released from the 2020 vintage in Australia.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay– 2018. White peach and grapefruit over marzipan and gentle spicy oak notes. The palate is supple, refined and full of life, with the acidity adding delicious energy.  Yet the intensity of fruit at the core is the defining feature. A very fine wine indeed! (18.5/20pts – $50).

Patritti – April Red – 2020. An unusual blend of Grenache and Pedro Ximinez from historic Adelaide vineyards. Ripe, bright and succulent with juicy cherry and berry fruit, with liquorice and spice on the finish. Zippy acidity adds to the fun. Delicious alternative to lighter reds as the weather warms. (17.3/20pts – $24).

Higher Planes – The Messenger – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016. The cooler climate, minty fruit is ripe and supple, and has been skilfully combined with fine oak and tannins resulting in an elegant, approachable wine. Yet there is the depth and structure to support bottle aging. A lovely wine. (18.5/20pts – $50).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Philip Adrian – 2017. Opens with cooler spectrum berry and red currant fruit that is perfectly ripe. The palate is intense, yet fine and elegant, with supple oak (50% new) adding depth and savoury complexity. Impressively packaged, this is a masterpiece for the vintage. (18.6/20pts – $100).