Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Highlights from the tasting panel: October 2023

Highlights from the tasting panel: October 2023

Barry Weinman: 6th November 2023

2021 vintage represents the 50th release of the Vasse Felix cabernet, and what a wine it is. Surely the best wine ever released under this label and at $55, an absolute bargain on the world wine stage. I could not resist drinking a glass (or two) at the end of the tasting, such is the quality and approachability.

The panel was also very impressed by the current Flametree Chardonnays. The S.R.S. is a serious, age worthy wine, whilst the standard release makes for excellent early drinking.

Reviewed

Flametree – S.R.S. – Chardonnay – 2022 This is really well made though, initially, it appears quite compact and restrained. The palate is both subtle and supple and starts to build impact the longer it lingers on the palate. The peach-like fruit really builds with air and is supported by fine acidity and supple oak. Whilst possessing excellent length, this remained closed in the glass, and only really started to hit its straps after being open for 24hours. One for the cellar. 13.0% alc. 95pts.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2022. This is very complete, if not overly concentrated. There is decent fruit weight and excellent winemaking. Very accessible and ready to go now on a warm afternoon or with a simple pasta dish. 13.0% alc. 90pts.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon (Gold Capsule)– 2021. Fine, elegant and refined, this is textbook Margaret River cabernet. The medium bodied precise ripe fruit has been sympathetically handled making for a wine that is almost magically, supple and approachable today, yet simultaneously being capable of long-term ageing. With air, the lifted aromatics of the ripe, yet restrained fruit was a highlight. Celebrating the 50th vintage of the Vasse Felix cabernet and possibly the best wine released to date. Includes 14% malbec. The components spent 17 months in barrel (37% new). 14% alc. 96pts – $55.

First Impressions – Reds: Spring 2023

First Impressions – Reds: Spring 2023

Barry Weinman: 25th October 2023

Here is a summary of some of the highlights from a recent trade show that I attended. You can find the whites here.

I have not pointed the wines as it is hard to be completely objective when the winemaker is telling you just how good his wines are :). But I would be more than happy having a glass of any of the wines.

In terms of affordable and approachable wines, both the Red Claw pinot and Yangarra’s Noir were right on the money. I would be very happy having a glass of either of these wines with a casual meal.

The Dog Point and Yabby Lakes were the stand-out pinots for me, and the Credaro 1000 Crowns Cabernet was one of the wines of the tasting.

Reviewed

Nanny Goat – Queensberry – Pinot Noir – 2022. Whilst the standard Pinot is a good drink, this is a real step up in terms of quality and impact. Fresh, vibrant fruit is supported by refreshing acidity. There is excellent length and depth, and the finish is really supple. Drink any time over the next five years.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2020. This is clean, fresh and really perfumed, supported by fine tannins and acidity. The fruit is initially shy, but builds with air. Excellent texture and mouth feel. The red fruits here are supported by gentle, earthy notes. A fine wine.

Shaw & Smith – Pinot Noir – 2022. Fresh, silky and very fine with subtle intensity, velvety texture and a seamless finish. A lovely wine.

Red Claw – Pinot Noir – 2022. There is decent depth and intensity here, but this is so approachable and such great drinking. Delicious straight from the get go and sure to be good value. Made by Yabby Lakes.

Yabby Lakes – Pinot Noir – 2022. This has similarities to the Red Claw, but has much more power, depth and intensity. Amazing length and persistence, and really silky to boot, with a seamless finish. A beautiful wine. 96 pts.

Yangarra – Noir – 2021. A grenache blend which is fleshy, supple and excellent drinking. Not serious, but textured and fun.

Yangarra – Kingswood – Shiraz – 2021. A lighter style which is subtle and elegant, with weight more akin to Pinot Noir than Shiraz but very good all the same.

Yangarra – Iron Heart – Shiraz – 2020. Much more of everything here, and very good, indeed, with powerful fruit and excellent texture supported by souring acidity that leads to a finish that’s chewy, long and elegant. The tannins are very, very fine but prodigious.

Credaro– 1000 Crowns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. Intense, concentrated, dense and powerful, with amazing length and persistence. Yet somehow, this is also excellent drinking. This amazing wine comes from new plantings in Wilyabrup that are only seven years old. The vineyard is close planted with Houghton and 337 clones.

First Impressions – Whites: Spring 2023

First Impressions – Whites: Spring 2023

Barry Weinman: 25th October 2023

Here is a summary of some of the highlights from a recent trade show that I attended. I have not pointed the wines as it is very hard to be objective when the winemaker is telling you just how good his wines are.

But the fact that they have been reviewed here means that I am very happy to recommend and drink them. Most would score between 93 & 95 points.

Thanks to Troy and the team at Joval Wines for hosting this tasting.

Reviewed

Yangarra Estate are best known for their High Sands Grenache, the fruit for which comes from the original 1946 vineyard. But the High Sands is just one of a number of high-quality wines produced from an expanding portfolio of vineyards.

Yangarra Estate – Roussanne – 2022. The ripe apricot fruit has been allowed to pick up a little ripe phenolics resulting in a wine that is viscous, textured and really quite delicious. The acid provides the cut through to keep this fresh and vibrant. Would take food well.

Giant Steps – Sexton – Chardonnay – 2022. Ripe stone fruit floods the palate and there is power behind the fruit. Yet this is seamless and very fine. Precise without being lean. 95 pts.

Dog Point – Sauvignon Blanc – 2022. I like this as there are complex, almost funky notes over the right tropical fruit. It’s crisp clean and fresh with lemony acidity and decent texture. Excellent drinking.

Dog Point – Chardonnay – 2020. There’s lovely ripe stone fruit here, but the winemaking notes are the real highlight. Complex minerality and struck match support a palate that is really intense and with excellent length. Gentle almond, supple phenolics and fine acid round out very smart wine. The predominantly Mendoza clone fruit is blended with a proportion of Dijon 95. Spent 18 months in Oak (10% new).

Credaro – Kinship – Chardonnay – 2022. Bright, fresh and zesty with decent texture and fruit intensity that builds in the mouth. 30% new oak, three months of battonage, no malolactic fermentation.

Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Chardonnay – 2022. Complex intense and powerful with the winemaking influences (minerality/struck match) contributing to the excellent depth and texture. A very good wine which saw 35% new oak, plenty of barrel work and no malolactic fermentation to keep the finish crisp and balanced.

Craggy Range – Sauvignon Blanc – 2022. I should drink more wines like this! It is clean, fresh and vibrant with lovely tropical fruit, gentle texture and excellent length of flavours. Underwent 15% barrel fermentation which really adds to the mouth feel. An excellent wine.

New Release Reds: October 2023

New Release Reds: October 2023

Barry Weinman: 7th October 2023

Here are some of the highlights from tastings over the last few weeks.

The cabernets showed particularly well, led by the astonishingly good Woodlands ‘Eleanor’ Cabernet. A truly great wine.

Another star was the 2018 Rolling Stone from McHenry Honen. This must surely be one of the last releases from the much-lauded 2018 vintage.

I was also very impressed by the stylish Hutton Triptych and the approachable and more affordable Flametree Cabernet.

In a very different style, Hutton Vale Farm produced a cracking shiraz in 2019. Closed under screwcap this vintage, this is a strong cellaring prospect.

Reviewed

Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2022. There is a lot going on here, with complex, earthy winemaking inputs complementing the ripe, savoury fruit that floods the palate. Whilst the fruit is very much the focus, this is also quite serious, with the winemaking inputs (proportion of the fruit undergoing whole bunch fermentation) adding depth and texture. One to watch. 13.5% alc, 94pts – $65.

Mud House – Claim 431 Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2020. This is intense, yet silky and supple, but comes across as very closed straight out of the bottle. But it is very impressive, with the fine fruit expertly handled in the winery to add texture and mouthfeel. Near seamless palate transition supported by silky tannins linger on the periphery to add texture, but do not impede the flow of the fruit one bit. 13.5% alc, 94pts.

Felton Road – Cornish Point – Pinot Noir – 2022. Very good indeed, and especially suited to food given the fine, refreshing acidity that cuts through the finish. This is powerful, intense and dense, yet is not heavy or cloying. It just needs time (preferably 5 – 7 years) to start to open up and approach its drinking window. But is a superb wine all the same. 14% alc, 96pts.

Hutton Vale Farm – Shiraz – 2019. There is fantastic fruit quality here. Lifted ripe plum fruit is complemented by supple cedary oak notes. The palate is quite superb, with great intensity of chocolate and coffee-tinged fruit. The expansive palate is supported by mouth-coating texture that is dense, yet silky and supple. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $75.

Flametree – S.R.S. – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020 This is much more closed and subdued right now, with the gravely tannins and chocolatey oak casting a shadow over the high-quality fruit. But I am confident that with time, this traditional Margaret River cabernet will provide plenty of drinking pleasure. 94pts.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. A riper, more accessible style with excellent balance and skilful winemaking. The fruit is initially closed on the palate, with the powdery tannins building from the mid-palate onwards, but there is no denying the quality. Refreshing acidity is the thread that keeps the whole package together and makes for a very enjoyable drink. A mid-weight, approachable wine that ticks all the boxes. 95pts.

Hutton Vale Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is a bigger, richer wine that, whilst loaded with powerful fruit, is unyielding right now. After three days open on the bench, this transformed into something quite special, so if you are going to drink it young, please give it plenty of time in a decanter. Or drink the shiraz while waiting for this to evolve in the cellar. 94pts – $70.

Hutton – Triptych – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a superb wine, but this is all about structure and texture now. Intense, inky blackberry fruit combines with fine, texturing tannins. The supple oak adds depth and breadth to the palate. The finish gets a little chewy, but is never aggressive or harsh. This will be brilliant with food now and has a very bright future indeed. Houghton clone fruit, 25% new oak, production only 92 dozen. 14.1% alc, 95pts – $50.

Woodlands – Eleanor – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Opens with supple blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, gentle cedar and hints of spice. The palate is intense, and powerful, with inky fruit flooding the palate. At this early stage, the acid and tannins combine to keep the fruit quite subdued, but it is only a matter of time before this blossoms into something quite spectacular. The length and persistence of flavours are second to none, with the impact of this wine being felt long after the last drop has been drained from the glass. 20 months in new French oak, 13.5% alc, 97pts $200.

McHenry Honen – Rolling Stone – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Yep. This is good. Actually, this is very good indeed. Supple berry fruit floods the palate, supported by texturing, savoury winemaking inputs. There is excellent length and persistence in what is a fine wine indeed. Sappy, savoury notes add to the mouthfeel in a very positive way. A hint of menthol? perhaps, but this is all about the high-quality fruit. 14.4% alc, 95+pts – $135.

Winery in Focus: Picardy Spring 2023

Barry Weinman: 30th September 2023

Over the last two weeks, the Panel looked at a cross-section of the Picardy range against a variety of high-quality comparators.

That the pinots were good would not be a surprise to anyone, but what impressed me the most was the quality of the whites.

The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon will be a cracking drink over the warmer months, whilst the 2022 Chardonnay is the best I can remember from Picardy and, at $55, is something of a bargain when compared to equivalent quality wines from other regions.

I would encourage you to try it if you get the chance.

The best value wine in the range would have to be the shiraz. Lithe, fresh and supple, it is a steal at under $40.

The Pannels are strong advocates for the use of corks, and all wines except the SBS are sealed with high quality natural corks or Diam corks.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2023. This was a real highlight, as the vibrancy of the sauvignon blanc has been held in check by sympathetic winemaking, which included a proportion of barrel ferment I assume, to add texture and depth. The end result is a zesty, textured wine with lemony fruit supported by tangy acidity (which I very much enjoyed). Gentle astringency on the finish adds to the texture and mouthfeel, and there is excellent length and persistence of flavours. A very smart wine that will be great drinking this spring/summer on its own, or with some freshly shucked oysters. 12.5% alc, 92-93pts – $30.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2022. Whilst the SBS may be the crowd pleaser in the range, the Chardonnay was the wine that excited me the most. I would go so far as to say that this is my favourite wine of the entire range right now and is worthy of comparison to the best of Margaret River.
This is a complex wine that emanates subtle power beneath the nectarine and white peach fruit. A touch of lemon pith comes through on the palate, supported by supple minerality and lovely textural notes. The quality oak adds depth, while the supple worked characters (Lees stirring and partial malolactic fermentation) build texture. A bit of a sleeper. Clones 76, 95, 96 and 277, 13.5%, 95pts – $58.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2021. This has it all. Perfumed, pretty fruit, gentle savoury notes of cedar and spice and just a hint of berry. The palate is lithe and supple, with savoury notes building on the finish. A very fine, elegant wine that has depth and power behind the supple façade. 20% whole bunch fermentation, a selection of 11 clones, 13.5% alc, 94pts – $69.

Picardy – Tete de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2020. This is something of a wolf in sheep’s clothing, or perhaps more fittingly, an iron fist in a velvet glove. At once, this is both fleshy and juicy, but it is also intensely concentrated and very powerful. It is both revealing and open, yet complex and age worthy. The elegant strawberry fruit is supported by a hint of orange peel/bouquet garni, with both the fruit and gentle savoury notes lingering on a long finish. 13.5% alc, 95pts – $118.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2021. Lithe and fresh, with supple, fragrant red fruits complemented by silky winemaking notes. This is very fine and elegant, its quality expressing in its finesse and length of flavours, rather than raw power. Good to go now, or in five -10 years. Diam cork, 94-95pts – $38.

Grosset 2023 Vintage Rieslings

Grosset 2023 Vintage Rieslings

Barry Weinman: 27th September 2023

The tasting panel was uniformly stunned by the breathtaking beauty of the 2023 Grosset rieslings. They are as close to perfection as I could possibly imagine.

The highlight of the tasting was the absolutely stunning Alea. I cannot recall trying a finer off-dry Australian wine.

It was also fascinating to explore the contrasting styles of the three wines, with the intensity of the Springvale contrasting with the ethereal nature of the Polish Hill.

But it does not matter which wine you try, you will not be disappointed.

We tried these wines in a large tasting of premium Australian rieslings and the other standout for me was the stunning quality of the 2022 Bin 51 from Penfolds.

Whilst none of these wines are cheap by Australian riesling standards, they are absolute bargains in the broader context of fine wine.

Reviewed

Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2023. So very pale in the glass, with just a slight tinge of straw to the otherwise clear liquid. This is both fragrant and perfumed, yet possessing great intensity of fruit. On the palate, musk, lime, talc, perfume and even a hint of bubble-gum all express in what can only be described as a stunning wine. Whilst silky, the phenolics do add texture and mouthfeel. The persistence of this wine must be experienced to be believed, lingering for what felt like minutes. And the residual sugar is perfectly judged making for a brilliant drink. Why wait? 12.5% alc, 97pts.

Grosset- Springvale – Riesling – 2023. OMG. This is so, so beautiful and fragrant, with perfumed musk, talc and incense notes. The palate is intense, reserved, powerful and near seamless. The length and persistence are noteworthy; however this is a touch austere right now and would really benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. With air, the perfumed fruit builds and builds on the palate and is oh-so-pretty and this is supported by impressive minerality. Again, the colour is very pale indeed. A superb wine. 12.9% alc, 96pts.

Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2023. This is the perfect counterpoint to the Alea. Perfumed and floral, but this is an exercise in restraint. Supple, silky and fine, with gossamer-like acid that shrouds the fruit bu tin no way impedes the expression. Length and persistence are exemplary. What set this apart for me is the fact that this would be equally enjoyable drunk any time over the next 20 years.12.9% alc, 96+pts.

Penfolds – Bin 51 – Riesling – 2022. Lifted, vibrant and pure, with minerality and subtle perfume complementing the zesty citrus notes. The palate has excellent balance supported by gently texturing phenolics and the minerality really makes an impact on the finish. With near seamless palate transition, as well as excellent length and persistence, this really is very good indeed. The next day, this was superb drinking, so give it plenty of air if you are planning on drinking this in its youthful prime. 11.5% alc, 95pts – $50.

Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2022. This is a lovely combination of fleshy fruit and perfumed, almost floral notes. The palate is supple, but there is a core of citrusy acid that defines the finish right now. A very polished wine which is an excellent drink now, but this will be at its best in a decade’s time. 12% alc – 94pts.

September New Release

September New Release

Barry Weinman: 17th September 2023

The big surprise in this tasting for the panel was the superb Battles chardonnay. Not a label that we had tried before, but a great wine.

The Hutton chardonnays were a fascinating contrast between the powerful Reserve and the restrained elegance of the Triptych.

I have no idea who Toby Bekkers is, but his wines are very good indeed. Whilst the winery is on to the 2021 Syrah/Grenache, the superb 2017 is still available from selected retailers and it is a brilliant drink. At $100, it is not cheap, but it is a compelling wine.

Reviewed

Hutton – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2020. This is an impactful wine. Complex worked characters from the oak, barrel ferment and lees contact smell expensive, with curry leaf and minerality a feature. In the glass, citrus, white peach and lemon pith all develop. The palate is rich and complex, yet with remarkable restraint and control shown in the balance and mouthfeel, which translate into near seamless palate transition. This is a bigger, more overt style that will appeal to those who like a bigger chardonnay. Natural ferment, barrel ferment and aging in 25% new oak, malolactic fermentation. 13.4% alc. – 94-95pts.

HuttonTriptych – Chardonnay – 2021. Tighter and tauter than the Reserve, with more subdued fruit. But everything is in place and the fruit is of decent quality. For me, this is all about restraint and poise. Elegant, yet there is a subtle intensity to the fruit which slowly builds in the glass over time. A fine, if understated wine with nectarine. supple worked characters. minerality, fine acidity and excellent length. A saline tang on the close suggests this would be a good pairing with food. Wild yeast, partial malolactic fermentation, barrel ferment and 8 months in oak (33% new). 13.5% alc. – 94-95pts.

Battles – Chardonnay- 2022. The name is new to me, but the panel were full of praise for winemaker Lance Parkins. And I like this a lot. This is a wine where the sum of its parts is greater than the individual components. Quality, if restrained fruit and slick winemaking, but the impact is impressive. Texturing minerality and subtle stone fruit is supported by taut, yet fine acidity and texturing (yet invisible) oak. Superb drinking. Natural ferment and malolactic fermentation, 9 months on lees, 13% alc. – 95pts – $50. (Sold out at the winery, but still available in the trade).

Bekkers – Syrah/Grenache – 2017. Inky, dense and powerful, with chocolatey overtones supported by a chewy, textured mouthfeel. Plush, silky and intense, with great length and persistence. This just keeps lingering. An amazing wine, but not for the faint hearted. A traditional Aussie red, with firm tannins that keep the balance. 14.5% – 95pts – $100.

Singlefile New Releases – Spring 2023

Singlefile New Releases – Spring 2023

11th September 2024

Since day one, I have been a huge fan of Singlefile. The combination of high-quality wines, beautiful packaging and sensible pricing has been quite irresistible.

And it seems that I am not the only one who thinks so. Looking at the winery’s website, the majority of the wines are sold out. I can think of no better praise indeed.

The best way to access these wines is via the mailing list.

The current releases are as good as ever. My picks for quality and value are the delicious grenache, along with the “Old School” Chardonnay.

They are well worth seeking out.

Reviewed.

SinglefileThe Vivienne – Chardonnay – 2020. A spectacular wine that is the epitome of restraint and poise. In addition to white peach, this has pretty floral and tropical fruit notes. Straight out of the bottle, the high-quality fruit on the palate was subdued by the tight-knit oak, but with air (and especially the next day) this transformed with the fruit asserting its authority with aplomb. Really needs 5 years in the bottle to hit its straps or give it an hour in a decanter to bring it to life. 12.6% alc. – 95+pts – $100.

SinglefileOld School – Chardonnay – 2022. An “old school” wine by name, but this is a superb example of a middle-of-the-road chardonnay that is bursting with character. The fruit is everything in this wine, but thanks to skilful winemaking, the texture and mouthfeel are the defining features. This has a viscosity and silkiness in the mouth that is quite captivating. There is great length and persistence on the palate with grapefruit-like citrus characters building on the finish. This may be quite cellar-worthy, but my tip is to enjoy it in its youthful prime. And be sure to try it with food. Wild ferment in new Burgundian oak, 13.6% alc., 96pts – $79.

SinglefileClement V – 2022. Dense, rich powerful and very good, with sweet ripe fruit to the fore, and gentle chocolatey notes building. Whilst clearly cooler climate, this is a generous style and all the better for it. Long, supple and delicious, with subtle clove notes and a refreshing touch of amaro-like astringency. Whilst age-worthy, this would be a brilliant BBQ wine this spring. A smashing drink. 14% alc. – 94pts – $37

Singlefile – Grenache – 2022. The fruit is pretty and perfumed and possesses great intensity. Not quite pinot, but definitely medium-bodied in weight. The palate is lithe, fresh, supple, long and gently textured. A complete wine that is already good to go but will cellar comfortably for a decade or more. If every you needed an argument to show that Frankland is perfectly suited to grenache, then this is the wine to use. 95pts – $40.

SinglefileSmall Batch Series – Pinot Noir – 2021. An irresistible combination of fragrant, pretty pinot fruit and plush, generously textured mouthfeel. Cherry? Yep, with satsuma plum acidity adding depth and drive. The oak adds subtle toasted notes and adds depth and texture. From a single barrel, this is a wine that needs no accompaniment, but is versatile enough to accomplish a variety of foods. 14.2% alc. 94pts – $59.

Cherubino Chardonnays: 2022 Vintage Reviewed

Cherubino Chardonnays: 2022 Vintage Reviewed

Barry Weinman: 14th August 2023

I am honestly amazed at the quality that Larry Cherubino maintains across his range, given the vast number of wines he makes under his own labels, not to mention the consultant winemaking that he offers.

A great example of both the quality and the array of wines on offer is the chardonnays made in 2022. There are no less than six chardonnays under the various Cherubino labels, in addition to those in the other ranges such as Pedestal and Ad Hoc.

With the exception of the On The Fringe Chardonnay which eschews new oak in favour of maturation in large format foudre and concrete egg, there are similarities in winemaking techniques across the range. So the differences that are seen between the wines in many ways reflects the variations in the various vineyards/sub-sites.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2022. Finer and more elegant than most, but no less impactful. Gorgeous fruit is front and centre. The oak, tannins and acid add depth and texture, but they are, for all intent and purposes, invisible. The viscous, textured mouthfeel is noteworthy. A brilliant wine now, but should open up further over the next five years. 60% new oak, partial (10%) malolactic fermentation, 13.1% alc. The pinnacle of the range, utilising the best parcels of fruit from across Margaret River. 96pts.

Cherubino – Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2022. A beautiful wine, that has intense peach aromas with layers of tropical fruit coming in over the top. This is dense and powerful, yet retains balance and charm. There is great length and persistence on a palate that is near seamless. A delightful wine that can be consumed with joy any time over the next five to seven years. Dijon clone, 13.1% alc, 96pts.

Cherubino – Gingin – Chardonnay – 2022. From the Willows Vineyard in Wilyabrup, this feels a little more immature in the mouth, with the acid and oak more noticeable and the mouthfeel a bit leaner. There is still excellent fruit quality but it comes across as quite restrained initially. Yet this retains a degree of approachability that makes for an excellent drink, particularly with food. Think poached chicken breast or spinach and ricotta ravioli. But with air, this really opens up, showing intense, powerful fruit supported by gentle astringency. Impressive 13.7% alc – 95pts.

Cherubino – On The Fringe – Chardonnay – 2022. There is a purity of fruit here that is quite special, no doubt aided by the use of large format foudre in combination with concrete eggs for maturation. The palate is elegant, lithe and supple, yet also intense, textured and deep at the same time. So, so good, but give it a few years to hit its straps. Fruit comes from a mature vineyard in Pemberton. 12.6% alc – 96pts.

Cherubino – Dijon – Chardonnay 2022. From the Wychwood Vineyard in Karridale, this is a very different expression of Margaret River chardonnay, but it is in no way less worthwhile. The fruit is just a little more subdued and closed right now, with the citrus acidity and flinty minerality more notable than the fruit right now. Everything is in place and this offers excellent drinkability, but its true potential will only be revealed at some point in the future. 12.9% alc – 95pts.

Cherubino – Caves Road – Chardonnay – 2022. Another excellent wine, but here everything is accessible from the outset and there is excellent balance. Whilst there is less (30%) new oak in this compared to some of the others in the range, it does add impact. I would drink this whilst waiting for the others to really hit their straps. Dijon Clones 95 and 96, 12.9% alc – 94pts.

Highlights from the tasting panel.

10th August 2023

If you put a cross-section of wines in front of a group of wine drinkers, there will invariably be differing views on the relative merits of each wine. And my observation is that the more experienced the drinker/taster/aficionado, then the more divergent the opinions become.

A great example of this is the wine groups on social media. Often, someone will post about how good a wine was, only for another contributor to counter with a completely different view.

The following wines stood out in recent panel tastings for the fact that they were universally praised by all tasters.

They also stood out for me for their quality/price ratio. Not cheap, but not expensive when compared to many of the benchmark wines in their styles.

Reviewed

MillbrookSingle Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020 . This has a bit of wow factor to it. Powerful, complex and intense, with peach, and mealy cashew notes. The palate is structured and deeply textured, yet this remains supple with near seamless palate transition. The acidity kicks in on the finish and drives the length of flavours, which linger for some time. A bigger style, with expressive oak, this was uniformly appreciated by the panel. 95pts – $35.

The winery is on to the 2021 vintage, but the 2020 is still available in the trade.

Fraser GallopParterre – Chardonnay – 2021. This is a superb wine. Intense, powerful and deep, with great depth of flavours supported by citrus-like acidity. Stonefruit and grapefruit notes build in the glass, with flint and a hint of curry leaf minerality adding to the appeal. The length and persistence of flavours are a standout. Don’t be fooled by the lighter colour; this is a sublime wine that would be perfect with miso infused salmon. 95pts – $60.

Tim Adams Aberfeldy – Shiraz – 2018. This is intense, powerful and impactful, with great depth of flavours to the inky fruit. Despite being tannic, structured and closed, this somehow, manages to be approachable at the same time, with ripe plum to the fore. The amazing old vine fruit has soaked up the new American and French oak with aplomb. This took 3 days to fully open up and the resulting wine was superb.

The Aberfeldy vineyard was a part of the original Wendouree vineyards and was planted in 1904. Many of the original vines are still in production. At $65, this is excellent value for a wine of this pedigree and quality. 95-96pts – $65.