In a line-up of quite expensive white Burgundies, three wines stood out for the quality and value that was on offer.
The highest pointed wine in this blind tasting was the Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay. That it sells for less than half the price of some of the comparators is testament to the value and quality that is available in Australia.
Even better value was the “premium” chardonnay (gold capsule) from Vasse Felix. At $50, this was the cheapest wine in the tasting, but it performed admirably, showing a purity of fruit missing in some of the French wines.
The surprise for me was the quality offered by Domaine Humbert’s Bourgogne. Whilst I can find no information on this wine, I am informed that the fruit for this comes from Gevrey-Chambertin and wears the humble Bourgogne label as a result, even though this has been carefully crafted including the use of a portion of new oak barrels.
I strongly encourage you to try these wines if the opportunity presents.
Reviewed.
Domaine Humbert Fréres – Bourgogne Blanc – Chardonnay – 2019. This stood out in the tasting for the combination of minerally, savoury notes typical of the region and superb fruit that shows impressive depth and power. There is an amalgam of stone fruit, pineapple and citrus, but no single feature stands out. The palate is near seamless and the intensity and length of flavours are noteworthy. Very impressive indeed. As this is a white Gevrey-Chambertin, it wears the Bourgogne label. 94+pts – $???. From Lamont’s in Cottesloe.
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2021. I like this a lot. Initially, it felt like the fruit weight has been pared back in comparison to earlier releases, but in a big glass, this really opened up over an hour or so to reveal beautifully ripe and pure fruit complemented by minerality and acidity that combine with the winemaking inputs to make for a superb wine. The finish is refined, elegant and restrained, yet there is considerable depth and power. An exciting wine that deserves fine food (A simple mushroom risotto worked a treat). 96pts – $120.
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2021 . This has been really well made. The precise ripe fruit is fine and elegant, supported by texturing oak and lees work that elevates this beyond the norm. Gentle stonefruit and citrus notes build in the glass and the texture is noteworthy. Lacks the ultimate depth of the Heytesbury, but is a fine wine by any standard and excellent value to boot. It does need time to open up, or serve it in a big glass and give it plenty of air. Like the Heytesbury, do not serve this too cold. 93-94pts – $50.
Perspective is so important when comparing wines, and the inclusion of the superb Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Voyager MJW chardonnays in this masked line up of wines served as an excellent reference point for the rest of the wines.
And a few of the 15 wines tasted were able to hold their heads up high in what was a very high quality line-up.
The stars for me where the Juniper Estate’s Cornerstone Chardonnay and Domaine Naturaliste’s Artus Chardonnay.
A real surprise was the Wombat Creek Chardonnay from Handpicked wines. This is the exception to the rule and shows that lower alcohol chardonnay can produce a complex wine, which is really enjoyable on release. Super stuff.
And from a value perspective, Ferngrove’s Diamond Chardonnay is a fine example of a cooler climate wine.
Reviewed
Domaine Naturaliste – Artus – Chardonnay – 2021. There is so much going on here. Curry leaf minerality, struck match notes, lees work, barrel ferment, oak and malolactic fermentation all play a role. This is a high impact, intense, powerful style, which has been done very well. The fruit sits a little behind all of the funky notes initially, but the pineapple and stone fruit characters build in the glass. A complex, serious and worked wine. 100% Gingin clone, wild yeast, full malolactic fermentation, 10 months in oak (40% new) 13% alc. 95pts – $56.
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Chardonnay – 2020. This is fine and elegant, with gentle cashew notes supporting the supple fruit. Hints of peach and nectarine are supported by subtle winemaking inputs. Whilst lithe and elegant, there is underlying depth and richness , which makes this quite special. Youthful and taut, this will also cellar well for up to a decade. From a mature vineyard in Karridale, French oak barriques (45% new), 13.5% alc. Try with grilled asparagus and marinated feta. 95pts – $70.
Hand Picked – Wombat Creek Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. Supple, rounded and balanced, this is a captivating wine that combines ripe stone fruit aromas and flavours with gentle winemaking inputs. Grapefruit acidity drives the finish, with light toast oak adding depth. The length is a highlight. Great drinking now, but will be better with age. 11.9% alc. 94 – 95pts – TBC.
Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2021. Pristine fruit that is so fine and delicate. Subtle stone fruit (white peach) notes build and are supported by gentle nutty notes. The palate is silky, near seamless, gently textured and very long. A lovely wine that is refined, elegant and superb drinking. Now – 7 years. Barrel ferment (40%new), partial malo, 13.5% alc. 95pts – $70
Ferngrove – Diamond – Chardonnay – 2021. This is intense, in a cooler climate way where the characters tend more to grapefruit, rather than stone fruit. The length and persistence are quite remarkable. Whilst the acidity is a feature, it is the pretty floral and peach notes that build in the glass , which are the highlight. Gentle grip adds texture on the close. 12.5% Alc. 93pts -$32
Plantagenet – Three Lions – Chardonnay – 2021. This is pretty and floral, with gentle citrus and white peach notes. The palate is really fine and elegant, with just a whisper of oak in the background adding texture and weight, without any overt flavours. Understated, this is excellent value current drinking. 91pts – $26.
Evans & Tate – Wild Cape – Chardonnay – 2021. Creamy and supple, with a core of lemony acid that runs the length of the palate. This is quite linear but should flesh out nicely with a couple of years in the bottle. Commendable length and persistence at this price point. 90pts – $25.
That Levantine Hill is so successful is no accident. Rumour has it that in excess of $100 million has been spent on setting up the vineyards, cellar door and winery and, under the watchful eye of Paul Bridgeman, the wines are living up to expectations and their reputation has been steadily growing on the east coast.
This is the first time the panel has had the opportunity to taste the Levantine Hill range and we were deeply impressed by the wines.
Whilst the single vineyard wines are intense, powerful and age-worthy, it was the Estate range that was most exciting for me. Coming from the superb 2018 vintage, the elegance and balance were a highlight in these wines, and, at $80 per bottle, they represent fair value given the quality on show.
Reviewed
Levantine Hill – Chardonnay – 2018. This smells expensive and somewhat Burgundian. Complex, textural and, more importantly, ripe. The superb fruit is supported by gentle worked characters (struck match, lees stirring). Excellent length and depth, with minerality adding to the complexity. Made from Mendoza clone fruit, 10 months in oak (20% new). 94pts – $80
Levantine Hill – Katherine’s Paddock – Chardonnay – 2018. A mixture of Mendoza and Bernard clones that underwent partial Malo. This is more subtle and delicate. Pristine fruit, but here everything has been pared back allowing the texture and mouthfeel to shine. Whilst ripe, this is delicate, refined and shy, with subtle power and minerality. Will be great over the next 5 years, but is a style that is unusual for Australia. 95pts – $120.
Levantine Hill – Pinot Noir – 2018. Very pale colour that has an almost copper tinge. Pretty, elegant and refined, with strawberry fruit, a silky texture and seamless palate transition. A veritable peacock’s tail of fruit fans out across the finish, and there is great length of flavours. Very, very good indeed. $95pts – $80.
Levantine Hill – Colleen’s Paddock – Pinot Noir – 2017. This is impressive, but not very approachable right now. The fruit is lithe and elegant, but there is great depth and intrinsic power to the fruit. Not silky, but intense and powerful. Age-worthy! 95pts – $200.
Levantine Hill – Syrah – 2018. Wow, wow, wow! This reminds me of Clonakilla. The berry fruit is oh-so-pretty, supported by supple spice notes. Very fine tannins support a palate that is long, elegant and supple, with a savoury tinge adding depth. An amazing wine. 96pts – $80.
Levantine Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. The menthol tinged fruit has depth and power, but this is a different style to those produced in WA. Near seamless, very long and expansive, this is a big wine, even if it is cooler climate. Impressive, but really needs time. 93pts – $80.
There were a number of highlights over the last few weeks, including a pair of very fine 2022 rieslings from the Great Southern.
The Singlefile a little more forward, compared to the Ferngrove, but both are delicious and represent remarkable value (like most good rieslings produced in Australia).
There were also some fine cabernets that offer the magic combination of early drinkability and cellarability. The Vasse Felix and Capel Vale were my picks.
Reviewed
Ferngrove – Cossack – Riesling – 2022. Pear skin, musk and sherbet aromatics are supported by muted citrus on the nose. The palate is bracing and lively, with fine texture and excellent length of flavours. The finish feels dry, and the acidity will support ageing. 94pts – $30.
Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2022. I love the suppleness of this wine. The high-quality fruit is complemented by ever-so-fine acidity that lends this wine great drinkability. Enjoy with shellfish now or try medium-term cellaring. 94pts – $35.
Plantagenet – Three Lions – Pinot Noir – 2021. This is a compelling offering. Typicity, ripe fruit and supple winemaking all combine to make for an excellent pinot at this price point. Not overly dense but makes up for this with vibrancy and generosity. Good drinking if not overly complex. 17.5pts – $26.
Moorooduc Estate – The Moorooduc – McIntyre – Pinot Noir – 2019. There is great depth, texture and intensity here, with the fruit showing as cherry and plum. The palate is very long and persistent, with the plush mouthfeel balanced by slightly gravelly tannins. Pretty floral/honeysuckle highlights add to a wine that is a lovely drink now – 5 years. 94-95pts – $80.
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Beautiful fruit on the nose. Pretty and ripe, with cassis, blackcurrant, cherry and spice. The palate is supple, silky and very refined. Really elegant, yet with depth and great balance. Absolutely superb straight out of the bottle, but age-worthy as well. Serious stuff! 95pts – $55.
Lake Breeze – Arthur’s Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2018. This wine stood out due to the savoury notes which complemented the ripe fruit which was redolent of blackcurrant. The polished texture is a highlight, with fine tannins and supple oak supporting a finish that is dense and powerful. This would be a great match with lamb shanks, or a hearty casserole. Received 97pts from one panelist! 94pts – $42.
Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Ripe fruit, supple winemaking, quality oak to produce a near seamless wine with excellent length and persistence of flavours. Yet this is subtle, refined and elegant, making for a great drink now, or in ten years. A very satisfying wine that received unanimous support. 95pts – $30.
The next chapter in that story is happening in 2022, with the family celebrating the 100th anniversary of the planting of the first vines on the family property in Carbanup.
It should be noted that this was not a commercial venture, with the grapes produced being made into wine for family consumption. It was only in the 1980s that the family embarked on commercial viticulture. But it makes for a nice story and a reason to celebrate.
Another reason to celebrate is that the wines are in top form. Trent Kelly has been in control of winemaking since 2017, and there has been a consistently high standard in the subsequent years.
There will be a number of events to celebrate the 100th anniversary, and some special releases to go along with them. The focus of these will be on non-traditional varieties for the region, including some delicious wines made from fragola. This was the variety that the family planted 100 years ago.
The Kinship range represents good value, but it is the 1000 Crown range that is most exciting.
I would definitely recommend trying the wines if you get the chance.
Reviewed
Credaro – Kinship – Chardonnay – 2021. Vibrant and juicy, with supple oak adding texture and depth. Excellent balance and mouthfeel, with noteworthy length of flavour and refreshing acidity. (No malolactic fermentation). Great drinking and would take food very well. (35% new oak. Wild ferment. Whole bunch press). 93pts – $40.
Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Chardonnay – 2021. More restrained and closed, with subtle power emanating from the palate. The fruit really builds with air, and there is more minerality here than in the Kinship. The texturing oak is very fine. Near seamless, the fruit unfolds on the palate, accompanied by great length and depth of flavours. Aromas include grapefruit, nectarine and gentle nutty characters supported by creamy curry leaf minerality. From a single vineyard in Wilyabrup planted in 1987. Winemaking influences include 30% new oak (low toast), wild fermentation, lees stirring, no malolactic fermentation and whole bunch press. 95pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Shiraz – 2021. Liquorice, plum and savoury, earthy notes leading to a textured, chewy palate with dense mulberry-like fruit flooding the senses. This is a serious effort and, whilst approachable and really gluggable, needs five years to really shine. The fruit from this comes from the Cellar Door vineyard (50%), with the rest from Wilyabrup. 93pts – $40.
Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Shiraz – 2021. Souring plum notes, but this is much more savoury, with the supple fruit tightly bound with the tannins and structural oak. That said, the near seamless palate is expansive and captivating, with pristine darker fruit flavours. Superb now, but also very age-worthy. The fruit comes from the Wilyabrup vineyard and 15% underwent whole-bunch fermentation. 95pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Clean, fresh and bright, yet with depth of fruit and supple texture. There is beautifully ripe fruit, with berry characters exploding on the palate. The finish is supple, textured and delicious, though this would also benefit from time in the cellar. Impressive. (60% Wilyabrup/40% Yallingup). 95pts – $40.
Credaro 1000 – Crowns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This feels somewhat immature in comparison to the Kinship. Taut, unyielding and with firm acid and tannins, this requires faith and extended cellaring to reach its best. But it should be superb. The fruit for this wine comes from a relatively new vineyard made up of 70% Houghton Clone and 30% 337 (Margaux clone). 95+pts – $80.
Credaro – Kinship – Fragola – 2021. This is known as the “strawberry” grape and is considered to be a superb eating grape. And yes, this has strawberry fruit that is fleshy, supple and delicious. Approachable and totally smashable, with enough structure to keep the balance. This will be part of a yet to be released “heritage” range, reflecting the Italian heritage of the family. 93pts – $40.
Credaro – Sangiovese – 2020. This is altogether more serious and structured, and is textural, fine, and elegant. There is excellent length to the cherry-like fruit and the winemaking adds texture rather than overt flavours. Very worthwhile. 93pts – $TBC.
On the world stage, and here in Australia, riesling is one of the great bargains. At a time when top-end local chardonnays are selling for $130 – $200 a bottle, the very best rieslings in the country are selling for less than half this amount.
At the top of the tree sits Grosset, and the 2022 release has seen the price creep up a little, but the wines are still tremendous value, given the quality, reputation and rarity that the wines represent.
You will need to be quick if you want to buy them, as they will sell out quickly.
Reviewed
Grosset – Springvale – Riesling – 2022. Pretty, pretty, pretty. This has superb aromatics on the nose that morph instantly into the corresponding flavours on the palate. Fine, elegant, almost ethereal, with lime, talc and pear notes all expressing. Amazing length and intensity, yet this is so so approachable. The minerality and intensity really build on the finish. Brilliant fruit with structure to support ageing. Irresistible. 95pts – $51.
Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2022. Taut, restrained and closed, yet this is powerful and very, very intense. There is an almost essence-like intensity, yet this is balanced and completely seamless, supported by very fine acidity. Drinking now? Sure, but this is a wine that I would definitely be popping into the cellar for a decade or more. Exceptional! 96pts – $75.
Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2022. This is a different style and, yet again, the result is very impressive. Here, the fruit is fragrant, supple and a touch restrained, whilst the phenolics have been carefully managed to build texture and mouthfeel. Serious, this is impactful and has the depth to work with a variety of food styles, and could even take a touch of chilli. Very good indeed. 94pts – $45.
Penfolds – Cellar Reserve – Riesling – 2021. Much more restrained and taut, but no less impressive. Here the limey citrus notes dominate, both from a fruit and acid perspective. The lime-like acidity of the very long finish is a defining feature of the wine. Very cellar-worthy, but also would be brilliant with freshly shucked oysters. The wonderful fruit really opens in the glass. 95pts – $50.
Over the last few years, the Margaret River region has seen more climatic variation than we have become used to. 2017, 2019 and 2021 were all unusually cool, with 2021 in particular also having to deal with untimely rain events.
But these variations need to be taken in context. Even a “lesser” year can produce excellent wines, but it takes a lot more care and attention in the vineyards and the winery to produce the best results.
At Leeuwin for example, yields are sacrificed in the pursuit of quality. In the vineyard, this includes both canopy management to increase exposure to light and air, as well as green harvesting (removing some of the bunches from the vine when they are still maturing, to allow the vine to put all its efforts into the remaining bunches).
The end result for Leeuwin is consistently superb wines, which allow you to taste the seasonal differences, with little or no impact on the quality and enjoyment of the wines. This is probably most apparent in the chardonnays where, even in the cooler years, a generosity of fruit is retained, which not all achieve.
Given the quality on show, the whole range represents very good value, especially the Art Series Shiraz and the Prelude wines.
The fruit destined for the wines in the Prelude range are identified in the vineyard, and treated separately in the winery. Yet the care taken and attention to detail is evident in the final product.
I have been a huge fan of Leeuwin Estate for a long time now, and the current range of wines only serve to reinforce why the winery has such a good reputation.
Reviewed
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Riesling – 2022. This is very fresh and aromatic, with pretty floral fruit and lemony citrus notes the defining features. There is excellent palate weight and texture, aided by the slightest touch of residual sugar (2gms/l). The latter is completely imperceptible, but does add some gentle viscosity and greatly aids balance. Delicious now, but sure to age well. 94pts – $25.
Leeuwin Estate – Prelude – Chardonnay – 2021. Lovely fruit on show, with a nose that is pristine and perfumed, but it is on the palate that the cooler vintage notes become apparent. Here, grapefruit is a key feature, as is the silky mouthfeel and fresh, though very fine acidity. With air, the fruit builds, making for a great drinking wine! 94pts – $40.
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2019. From another cooler year, but this counts for nought when you taste the wine. The power and depth of the fruit is stunning, supported by texturing, high quality oak. Whilst the fruit is still relatively closed, the almond meal/nutty notes abound. The length and persistence of fruit flavours is something to behold. Will be even better in 5 years time. Gingin clone, 100% new oak for 11 months with regular battonage. 96pts – $138.
Leeuwin Estate – Prelude – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This reminds me of decent Bordeaux given that the texture and mouthfeel are the main feature straight out of the bottle. With air, the pretty fruit opens, and there is impressive depth and balance for a wine at this price point. The finish is structured, but supple enough to offer immediate drinking pleasure. The fruit for this wine comes from vineyards in the Yallingup subdistrict and includes 2% Malbec. A lot of vineyard work was required to get the fruit ripe (e.g. green harvest) given the cooler year, and the results are impressive. 93pts – $32.
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This has gorgeous blue berry fruit, but the structure is the defining feature. Intense, powerful, textured and chewy, yet this somehow remains supple and elegant, with near seamless palate transition. The fruit for this wine comes from the Block 8 vineyard adjacent to the winery. It spent 23 months in (50% new) oak and includes 3% malbec.” 96+pts – $89.
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Shiraz – 2019. Pretty, pretty red berry fruit just leaps from the glass, supported by spice notes and white pepper, reflecting the cooler vintage. Excellent length leads to a finish that is silky, supple, elegant and long. This has parallels with fine pinot, beautifully reflecting the vintage conditions. Such a bargain! (Aged in 600 litre oak vats, 33% new). 95pts – $42.
Amelia Park remains one of the more memorable cellar doors in Western Australia. The vista as you walk into the tasting room is nothing short of breathtaking. And when you combine that with superb (and great value) wines and knowledgeable staff, it makes for a fantastic experience.
Like many wineries in the region, Amelia Park now charges a small fee to taste through the range. And I for one am really pleased to see this. To pay $10 (free if you buy a bottle of wine) to taste over ten high-quality wines in a superb setting is an absolute bargain, especially when you consider that the wines are in top form.
The entry level Trellis range must surely be the bargain wines in the region. The Chardonnay and Cabernet/Merlot in particular are serious wines that belie their $18 price (cheaper for members).
But there is value across the range, with the Estate and Reserve wines priced sensibly, making them very accessible, especially if you take up a membership (Subscription).
Reviewed
Amelia Park – Trellis – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2022. A 60/40 blend. Floral, fragrant, and really quite pretty, with tropical fruit and passionfruit highlights. The palate is clean, fresh and zesty, and whilst not overly complex, has decent length of flavour. Brilliant value summer quaffing. 89pts – $18
Amelia Park– Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2022. This is less floral and more savoury, with more depth of flavour and increased texture, thanks to some subtle work in the winery. With a slightly chalky texture, this will be great with a lighter meal. 90pts – $25
Amelia Park – Pinot Gris – 2021. Colour is a giveaway for the variety, having a bit more intensity than the previous wines. I really like this, as it balances fresh fruit and gentle phenolic richness that really fills out the mid palate. Pear skin and gentle nuttiness on the close. Great drinking now. 91pts – $29
Amelia Park – Riesling – 2021. Initially a bit closed and tight, but, as it warmed, the lovely citrus fruit starts to express. The plate is fresh, with citrus fruit and fine acidity the key drivers of length. The texture and mouthfeel are a highlight, with chalky minerality adding to the experience. Good to go now or in 5+ years. 30% of the wine was aged in old oak to aid texture and mouthfeel. 92pts -$35.
Amelia Park – Trellis- Chardonnay – 2021. This wine feels a lot more expensive that its meagre price. Hand-picked Wilyabrup fruit has been gently massaged in the winery (wild ferment, 6 months in older oak on lees). This smells impressive. Ripe chardonnay fruit with supple winemaking influences adding depth. Peach, grapefruit, subtle minerality. Excellent mouthfeel and texture and decent length to boot. Unbelievable value at $18. 92pts.
Amelia Park – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. This has a real wow factor. Superb peachy fruit is the focus, complemented by floral tropical notes. The palate is pretty and elegant. The Intense fruit clearly reflects the cooler vintage, yet there is still a generosity that makes this superb drinking. The acid profile will allow this to be paired with quite rich food like a creamy pasta. The stats: Wild yeast, barrel ferment, 10 months in oak (33% new) , lees stirring, 13% alc. 95pts – $70.
Amelia Park – Trellis – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2021. Pretty, fragrant, supple and savoury, with gentle texture and hints of spice. Impressive depth of fruit for a wine at this price point. Great drinking now and, again, great value. This is much better than a quaff. 93 pts – $18.
Amelia Park – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2021. Silky, supple and textured. This is pretty and fine, yet there is excellent fruit weight sitting behind the textural components. Excellent length of flavours (blueberry) and balance, with a near seamless palate transition adding to the appeal. Aging in oak hogs-heads (30% new ) adds depth but not overt flavours. Would be great with food now or better still with 10 years in the cellar. 95pts – $35.
Amelia Park – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Gorgeous blueberry fruit on the nose. Depth, power, intensity. Superb fruit and structure, the oak acting as the frame on which the fruit is hung. Hints of spice and earthy notes round out a superb wine experience. An elegant wine with great length and persistence of flavours and a seamless finish. 100% Cabernet, 18 months in oak hogs-heads (40% new). 96pts – $70.
Amelia Park – Malbec – 2020. Wow, this has high impact fruit. Powerful, chewy, intense and tannic, with impressive depth and length. Chewy and impactful, this is great now but needs years to show its best. A beast. 94+pts – $50.
Amelia Park – Tempranillo – 2020. Savoury, earthy, textural and chewy, this shows excellent varietal typicity. There is bright fruit on the palate, but with a savoury kick. Tannins are well managed. The intense fruit is powerful and long. This just works. Fruit from the Swinney vineyards in Frankland. 93pts – $TBC.
Amelia Park – Shiraz – 2021. The ripe fruit here is succulent and supple, with silky texture and savoury highlights. This is all about the superb fruit quality, and the result is quite spectacular. Impressive depth and intensity, yet this is disarmingly approachable at this young age. 95pts – $35.
Amelia Park – Reserve – Shiraz – 2020. A sublime wine that combines brilliant fruit and deft winemaking. The fruit expresses a myriad of flavours spanning plum and berry, with savoury/spicy notes and even a hint of licorice. This is really one for extended cellaring, but it is hard to resist right now. The fruit for this wine comes from the Swinney 801 Block (the source of Swinney’s Farvie) and is hand-picked, open fermented, has 15% whole bunch and spent 18 months in oak. 96+pts – $70.
According to the Greek philosopher Heraclitus, the only constant in life is change. And this very much holds true in the world of wine. A recent example of this is at Plantagenet.
Plantagenet is a pioneer of the Great Southern region, with Tony Smith planting the first vines in 1968. Planting at the Wyjup vineyard commenced in 1971 with Cabernet and Riesling, with the addition of Shiraz, Malbec and Chardonnay shortly afterwards.
Over time, ownership gradually transferred to Lionel Samson & Son but in 2021, Tom and Jo Wisdom became the new owners. Tom was working as General Manager at the winery at the time and is a descendant of the Lionel Samson family.
The final chapter (to date) was the appointment of Mike Garland as winemaker. Mike started his winemaking career at Plantagenet in 1997 and his return completes the circle.
The old-vine Wyjup vineyard is at the heart of the current Plantagenet range and was the key asset acquired in the purchase, along with the Plantagenet brand. The Wisdoms have leased back the Mt Barker cellar door, allowing them to maintain a key presence in the region and they also have access to many of the vineyards on an ongoing basis.
Whilst the entry level wines are made under contract, the premium Wyjup range will be made exclusively on-site by Mike Garland.
2022 will be the first vintage completed end-to-end by the new team and I am very much looking forward to seeing the results.
Reviewed
Plantagenet – Three Lions – Riesling – 2021. Generous, approachable and very drinkable. The fruit is mouth filing and juicy, with lime and pear. Gentle phenolics add mouthfeel and texture. 90pts – $26.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2021. Pretty floral fruit aromas tease on the nose, but this is really quite closed and tight right now. The palate is fine, taut and mineral laden, but there is undeniable presence and depth. Very age-worthy and impressive, the fruit coming from the original 50 y/o vineyard. 94pts – $45
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Chardonnay – 2020. This is very impressive. Like the Wyjup Riesling, this is taut, dense and powerful. Early drinkability has been deprioritised in the pursuit of structure and longevity. Impressive tight grain oak is a feature, sitting well with the fruit, and a key part of the fabric of the wine. Will get higher points with time in bottle. 93-95pts -$70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Malbec – 2021. This was the absolute standout of the tasting. Structured, powerful and most impressive, the fruit is dense and powerful. Yet this retains vibrancy and a supple texture. With air, the balance and approachability are outstanding. A great effort and demonstrates just how good MT Barker Malbec can be. The fruit comes from just 0.3 hectare off the 50-year-old Wyjup vineyard. Only three barrels made (1/3 new oak) and includes a splash of shiraz. 95+pts – $70.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Shiraz – 2018. This is so so pretty on the nose, but it is on the palate that the seriousness of this wine shows through. The chocolatey fruit is structured, dense and powerful, and is complemented by gravelly, almost chewy tannins and texture. Age-worthy. 94 -95pts – $80.
I wrote last year about the superb sparkling wines produced by Sittella from the 2016 vintage. The good news is that there are still limited stocks available from the winery. You can access my reviews here.
This tasting was an opportunity to review some of the new release wines that have (or are about to) come onto the market. It was also the first time that the panel had a chance to meet with winemaker Yuri Berns since he took over as senior winemaker at Sittella.
The first thing that stood out is that attention to detail remains a key focus for Yuri and his team. Yes, they obviously have very good palates, but the technical expertise that underpins the winemaking is clearly a factor in the consistent quality across the range of wines.
I am struggling to pick a favourite from the tasting, as the Chenin Blanc, and the El Vivero in particular, demonstrated just how good the whites from the Swan Valley can be. The El Vivero is a field blend of varieties from the winery’s nursery block, and will be a great match for lighter foods, or on its own on a sunny spring afternoon.
From a value perspective, the Reserve Chardonnay at $40 is a steal, as is the Reserve Cabernet Malbec which, at $32, is a screaming bargain.
The Berns Reserve Cabernet ($60) is one of the last of the excellent 2018 vintage reds still available on the market. Definitely one for the cellar.
Reviewed
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2022. The fruit for this excellent wine comes from the 1965 Houghton plantings. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed. The palate is viscous, oily, textured, clean, fresh and vibrant, with waxy citrus fruit supported by gentle phenolic texture. Now or later, the choice is yours. 93pts – $32.
Sittella Avant Garde – El Vivero – Blanc – 2021. The fruit for this wine comes from the nursery block, and is a field blend of the white varieties planted there. I like this a lot. There is gentle richness and power, with hints of honey. Not toast, but certainly a touch of brioche. Excellent length and mouthfeel. Different to the Chenin, and an excellent drink. 92pts – $32.
Sittella – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021. Wow, this is quite superb. Rich, textured, powerful, with stone fruit and spice. The oak is an important addition to the textures and flavours. This runs in parallel to the fruit today, but a year or two will see this settle back and allow the fruit to be the star. Gentle mealy/worked notes add complexity, aided by a fine acid core. Has the quality to challenge the best of the region, but not the price. 95pts – $40.
Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache – 2022 – This is so bright and juicy, making for a totally smashable wine. But there is a serious core sitting beneath the slurpable veneer. Coffee, chocolate and texturing gravelly tannins all add to the enjoyment. Swan Valley fruit, 20% of which underwent carbonic maceration to help preserve freshness. 93pts – $TBC.
Sittella – Tinta Rouge – Tempranillo blend – 2020. This is a cracking wine. The focus here is the fruit, but this is complemented by textural, gravelly tannins that will work a treat with food. Plum, black fruits and liquorice notes lead to a long, slightly chewy texture. Just the ticket for bangers and mash. 92pts $20.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Tempranillo/Touriga – 2020. This has less of the gravelly tannins than the Tinta Rouge and a silkier mouthfeel. The fruit is quite closed and tight right now, but this is a super wine, which needs a few years to unwind. But it would be amazing with lamb shanks. 93pts – $40.
Sittella – Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2020. What a lovely wine! Silky fruit, subtle oak, skilled winemaking, with excellent texture and mouthfeel. But this is reserved, shy and only hinting at potential. The density of fruit is a highlight. 94pts – $32.
Sittella – Berns Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a bit like Clark Kent/Superman. It appears mild-mannered and gentle, but underneath is a core of powerful and structured fruit that just needs a decade or two to absolutely hit its straps. Density and depth are a highlight, and the very long finish is so silky and fine. 95.5pts – $60.
