20/04/2015
A few weeks back, Burt Salomon was in town to showcase his range of wines. What makes Salomon unusual though, is the fact that he makes wines on both sides of the equator. Having established a passion for making wines in the new world, Burt took over the reins at his family’s wine business in Austria a few years back.
The results are that there are quality wines being made under the Salomon label from both Austria (white wine) and Australia (red wine). This blending of new and old techniques has allowed Salomon to experiment with styles, challenging the convention with some of the whites in particular.
Below is a selection of wines that I particularly enjoyed.
Grunner Veltliner
Hochterrassen 2013 (17).
Savoury, almost apricot fruit on the nose. Light and fresh in the mouth, with decent mouth-feel and texture. A neutral wine made for early consumption with food. (Think Pinot Grigio). (RRP $27).
Wieden & Berg Kremstal 2013 (17.5).
A lovley, aromatic example that has apricot and a nutty cashew character. The palate is slightly viscous, and mouth-coating. Long and supple, the zesty lemon-like acidity carries the finish. Good drinking. (RRP $34).
Wachtberg Kremstal DAC & Erste & Lage 2013 (18.5).
This wine is a step up in quality in every way, and worth the modest price premium. There is density to the fruit that is quite remarkable. The power is palpable. The length and texture on the finish are note-worthy. The apricot notes are more muted, with supple citrus and fine, tingling acidity. Superb wine. (RRP $38).
Von Stein Kremestal DAC Reserve 2013 (18.5+).
A brilliant nose that is floral, fragrant and delicate, yet packed with power and intensity. The stonefruit notes continue, but the density and intensity are superb. Worth seeking out. (RRP $64)
Riesling
Undhof Kogl 2012 (18).
Reminiscent of a wine from the Porongorups, with fragrant fruit over a mineral core. Lovely lime-like fruit and excellent acidity on the palate, closing with a refreshing citrus tang. The fruit has a degree of density and viscosity that is attractive. Good line and length. (RRP $38).
Stiener Kogl Kremestal DAC Reserve 2011 (18.5).
The richness to the fruit is disarming. This is dense, viscous, textural and very long. There are lime characters, but with complex minerals and an almost musk-like lift. The finish is off-dry and all the better for it. Superb wine. 18.5 (RRP $59).