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A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes From Italy

Over the next few weeks, I will dedicate this column to sangiovese as I am in Tuscany after all, which is the home of the great wine. Sangiovese really is king in these parts.

I should mention however that sangiovese is known by many other names. This is partly due to the many different clones of the variety, but also due to the fact that each region and sub-region tends to know it by a different name. Its synonyms include Morellino (di Scansano), Brunello (di Montalcino), Montepulciano (Vino Nobile di…), Tignolo and Prugnolo. Even Sagrantino di Montefalco from neighbouring Umbria, is largely Sangiovese.

Sangiovese can be found on its own or blended with other varieties, both within and outside of the DOC system. Just because a wine is made out of sangiovese and comes from within a specific region (Chianti Classico, for example), it does not mean it will qualify to be sold as a DOC wine. It has to fulfil all the requirements of the DOC system to do so. There will be more about that in a subsequent article on Chianti Classico.

In Chianti, its traditional bedfellows are Canaiolo and Ciliegolo. It is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in Carmignano (about which I will dedicate a whole other article to) and in the so-called Super Tuscans.

Before I arrived in Italy, I viewed sangiovese as a variety characterized by being of a lighter style. I had been aware that extraction could be difficult, and that its core manifestation (in, say, Chianti Classico) was of cherry fruit and medium tannins, producing a fairly linear and uncomplicated wine. Indeed, this is a particularly delicious incarnation, and accompanies many foods, climes and moods!

But I have come to realize that, with different clonally selection, viticulture, vinification techniques (especially in relation to extraction – time and temperature of fermentation, extended maceration and barrel fermentation) and, of course, terroir, sangiovese has myriad expressions. Even two Chianti Classici will never be identical.

I will include some tasting notes below of a selection of wines, tasted at various tastings, which will not fall into categories of subsequent articles.

Salvioni – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2001 (17.5). This was a wonderful wine, and even given its age, was a touch closed. It had core fruit flavours of dark fruits, with plum coming to the fore, in a complex, savoury frame. Would have continued to improve for 5 years +.

Fontodi – Flaccianello della Pieve – IGT 1994 (18). This is the top wine from the Fontodi stable, which also produces a fantastic Chianti Classico (more in the article on that sub region). 100% Sangiovese from their best sites, the age of the wine was evident on tasting, but it retained fruit and tannins, with a silky mouth feel.

Caprai – Sagrantino di Montefalco – DOCG – 1995 (17.5). A very, if not the most, important Sagrantino, the Caprai name was synonymous with the revival of Umbria’s vinous reputation. Again age did not extinguish fruit expression, with a mint and spiciness adding to its attractiveness.

Percarlo (San Giusto a Rentenanno) – IGT – 1998 (18). Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is another 100% Sangiovese wine labeled as an IGT. I was impressed with the prune fruit flavours and, when the wine opened fully, how they mingled with spicy flavours consisting of cinnamon and cloves in particular.

Asinone – – DOCG – 1999 (18.5). The Poliziano vineyards are located mainly in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano selezione’ (Poliziano)Montepulciano, and the Asinone is a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (there is a lesser wine in the range which is also a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, but it is not labelled ‘selezione’). Wow! A wonderfully complex wine, with fruit, spice and oak now in perfect balance to give a silky mouth feel.

The above provides just a hint of the wonderful sangiovese discoveries I have been making. I must acknowledge my new friends in the tasting group I have joined. They are as knowledgeable, generous, down to earth and hospitable as any of the groups I have belonged to in the past. They are also the source of many of the wines listed above.

Ciao,

Brendan Jansen

Cecilia Winery on the Island of Elba

Lorenzo Camerini’s uncle, Giuseppe, bought the vineyards and winery of Azienda Agricola Cecilia in 1945. At the time, the price of land and property was cheaper, before the big tourist boom of recent times caused prices to become astronomical, and for the most part, unattainable. Giuseppe set out to make wines of character and quality, and though originally from Milan, he attempted to maintain Elba’s long tradition of the passito or drying method, particularly in the making of dessert style wines.

Elba has a long and rich tradition of winemaking. At one time almost 50% of the 7000 ha of the land that constitutes the island was under vine. Wines from Elba were well known, highly prized and sought after. Now less than 200 ha remain. Partly laid to waste during the post World War II economic crisis, the focus is now on the tourism industry. This makes the reclamation of these areas for vineyards both difficult and economically prohibitive.

Lorenzo has taken over the business from his uncle, and plays the role of viticulturalist. Vittorio Fiore is the winemaker (enologo) and the results are impressive. Though there are other producers of quality on Elba (Sapereta and Acquabona in particular), Cecilia is widely regarded as the best producer on the island, selling most of its production on Elba, but exporting as far as New York. It is for this reason my Australian mate and I arranged a visit.

Elba is beautiful, and can be reached by an hour-long boat ride from the township of Piombino on the Tuscan coast. (If you are travelling by car, add another hour at least to join the disorganised queues to get on the boat!) It is probably volcanic in its origins, which explains why its tallest peak, despite its small size, is over 1000m in height. Nonetheless, it has very varied soil types, from clay to loam to hard rock rich in iron (which was mined in times dating back to the Etruscans).

Elba’s history is a rich one, and it is, perhaps, most famous for having been the place to which Napoleon was exiled by a coalition of his opponents. It must take an Emperor, even if self proclaimed, to be exiled to a place as beautiful as Elba. Nonetheless, about a year later, he escaped, to continue his conquests for almost another year, until he, quite literally, met his Waterloo.

Lorenzo met us out of office hours, and immediately took us for a tour of his 3 vineyard sites. The sites epitomized the soil differences above, and Lorenzo is experimenting with new varieties and clones in the different sites.

The principal white varieties at the moment are Trebbiano, Vermentino, Ansonica, and what we call Frontignac (or Muscat), with the reds being Shiraz, Sangiovese and Aleatico.

I have come to believe that it is difficult to produce a Vermentino or Trebbiano of interest, in Tuscany at least. Lorenzo’s examples were clean and crisp, lean and fresh. They would be great aperitifs. His Ansonica, another indigenous grape variety of Italy, was fuller, with more tropical fruit flavours including pineapple, and would be an ideal accompaniment to an Asian or seafood dish. All the white wines were unoaked and all were from the 2008 vintage. My points for the whites were 16 (Trebbiano), 16 (Vermentino) and 16.5 (Ansonica).

The reds start with an unoaked Sangiovese (called their Rosso, from 2007) that was the essence of cherries – light, bright and refreshingly crisp (16.5 pts). Lorenzo plans to make a more sophisticated Sangiovese in the coming year or two, with oak treatment and greater extraction.

For now his flagship red is his syrah, and we tried the 2005. Having a palate accustomed to Shiraz, I was pleasantly surprised by the wine. It had plum and blackberry fruit characters that reminded me of moderate to warm climate shiraz from back home. Though without the leathery touches of a Hunter Shiraz, it had enough of an acid backbone to suggest it would only get better in the next 5-8 years. I liked it, and so too did Robert Parker. (18 pts).

The sweet wines were both made in the passito method. Grapes are left on the vine for as long as possible and then dried for an average of two weeks on wooden racks. The shriveled berries are then crushed – in the case of the Aleatico, fermented on its skins, and the Moscato, as per a white wine.

The fermentation is stopped at 15% to produce wines of sweetness yet complexity. The Moscato (2007) had its usual floral nose but a lovely dry finish. 18 pts. The Aleatico’s (2006) complexity derived from a floral spiciness undercut by chewy tannins and wonderful length. I imagine the Aleatico will live for many years yet. 18.5 pts.

The future looks bright for Cecilia. Vine age of the syrah vines is only 12 years so the best is yet to come. I called his establishment a “boutique winery” – it produces between 40,000 and 50,000 bottles annually, and the wines are of the highest order – Lorenzo seemed to like that. Brendan Jansen

A Visit to Terrabianca

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy by Brendan Jansen

Number One – July 2009

Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical ties to Italy. He also lists himself as the viticulturalist. The winemaker is Vittorio Fiore, a well-known and highly skilled oenologist from the region.

The company produces 350,000 bottles annually. The property consists of over 120 ha of land, comprising about 15 ha under vine and a significant olive tree plantation, at a level over 250m above sea level, in both Chianti, and Maremma, further south in Tuscany and closer to the ocean. Its name (Terrabianca) is derived from the whitish soils of the area in Chianti, which are due to the combination of sand, clay and chalk.

As we drove towards the property, we passed busloads of most likely British, German and American tourists visiting large establishments in the area. Francesco, my friend and point of entrée into the tasting, lamented that many of the larger wineries made lakes, if not oceans, of mediocre wine, assisted by the “Chianti” name, and feeding off the resurgence of interest in Italian wine. Viticulturally, grapes of moderate quality are turned into half decent wine by paid consultants, producing Chianti with an unexciting sameness.

Our arrival at Terrabianca coincided with the final stages of a tasting involving a visiting Brazilian importer. After they had left the full range of wines that Terrabianca produce was open and at our disposal. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are the major grape varieties grown, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano. We focused on reds at the tasting.

La Fonte – 2007. This is a 100% Sangiovese wine with 6 months of oak, from vineyards further south in Tuscany, outside the Chianti region, in Maremma, Grossetto. My notes say, “This has cherries and some savoury characters, good length and structure.” I can understand why this is their “house wine” – is a ripper. It has 13.5% alcohol, and I gave it 16.5 pts.

Scassino – 2007. (Chianti Classico) 97% Sangiovese with 3% Canaiolo. This has spent 8 months in oak. It is the quintessence of Chianti Classico, with cherries and some plum flavours. At 13% alcohol, it seemed a bigger wine than the La Fonte, but still an ideal match for spicy food and even fish. 17 pts

Croce – 2005. (Chianti Classico) DOCG Riserva. With the same grape combination as the Scassino, this has spent 15 months in oak, making it more mellow and softer. It was, however, a darker and denser wine with a greater dose of dark/stewed fruit. 17.5 pts

Campaccio – 2005. A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet component was immediately evident, with capsicum and cassis notes, but with a lovely meaty, savoury undertow. It has had 12 months of oak treatment, and needs time to allow the wonderful acid and structure to integrate. I loved this wine, and so did Robert Parker a few years ago. 18 pts

Campaccio “Selezione” Riserva – 2004. With a higher Cabernet component (50%) and 24 months of oak treatment, this was a wonderfully deep and unctuous wine with chewy tannins and again that savoury edge. It struck me that Italians do with Sangiovese what we in Australia do with Shiraz – fill the Cabernet ‘doughnut’ with dark fruit while clinging to the structure that Cabernet Sauvignon offers, to create their Super-Tuscans. This has a long life ahead of it. – 18.5 pts.

Cipresso – 2005. We moved on to an interesting set of wines. The first was another 100% Sangiovese wine but not labeled as Chianti Classico and therefore not a DOCG, but an IGT wine. Savoury notes were evident as were the plum, cherry and berry flavours. This time, some liquorice and fennel added to the spiciness. The mouth-feel was wonderful, and belied the commonly held belief that extraction is difficult with Sangiovese. This too has a long life ahead of it – if waiting is possible. 18.7 pts

Il Tesoro (Merlot) – 2005. This 100% Merlot was like few Australian Merlots I have tasted (barring perhaps the Three Hills Merlot from Happs). From their southerly and more maritime vineyards, the differences between day and night time temperatures have added to the acid and structure. The nougat and almond flavours probably derive from the oak treatment, and though not off putting, will further integrate with time. 18 pts

Ceppate – 2005. This is a Cabernet dominant wine (90%) with the rest being Merlot. This wine was closed and fruit flavours had to be coaxed out of it with heavy swirling and time. A classic Bordeaux style, with the addition of more perfume on the nose than I have been used to, this too demands time. 17.5 pts

We completed the tasting by sampling the extra virgin olive oil produced by Terrabianca – a classic Tuscan style – strong and peppery, with hints of citrus – to light up any salad or loaf of bread you would choose to have with it. What did I learn from the tasting? Firstly, Sangiovese, with its many (13 clones) is a versatile variety, and in the right hands, extraction to produce complex and powerful red wine is possible. (Sangiovese is known by many names – it is the Morellino from Scansano, the Brunello from Montepulciano, and even the Sagrantino from neighbouring Montefalco in Umbria is thought to be related).

Secondly, if I were an importer, this is the kind of producer I would deal with. Expert viticulture, modern winemaking facilities, great quality fruit, and every wine in the stable exceptional at its price point.

What is the cost of the wine? Well, in Italy, unlike Australia, wine is cheaper at the cantina or winery. So the wines ranged from 10 Euro for the La Croce, to 36 Euro for the Campaccio Riserva and the Ceppate. What did I buy? A dozen each of the Cipresso and the Campaccio – at 20 Euro a bottle.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

NB. My visit there was organized by my friend Francesco, who knows the current marketing manager of the establishment.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 10 February 2013

This tasting again highlighted the evolution of Australian Chardonnay. Earlier picked and lower in alcohol, these wines can be quite thrilling. The Howard Park and Squitchy Lane are excellent examples.

The Killerby sits in the middle, having more richness to the fruit, yet retaining elegance and subtlety. Delicious stuff.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Starts in the leaner style with more minerality than a lot of Australian chardonnays. There is peachy fruit with pineapple hints on the palate, (most likely from the inclusion of Mendoza clone fruit). The palate opens to become quite viscous and mouth-coating, the finish balanced by lovely acidity. There is high quality, yet restrained oak and the length is admirable. Will age gracefully over the next five years, but this is a super drink right now! (13% alc).

Squitchy Lane – Chardonnay – Yarra Valley – 2010 (17.8). The restrained nose speaks of quality winemaking in a modern, lean style. There is a lovely palate that is creamy and textured, yet fine and elegant. This has high quality fruit that expresses as white peach and nectarine. There is a degree of richness to the fruit on the palate that is very compelling. The finish is near seamless with the acid and oak adding depth rather than overt flavour. The complex, worked characters round out the finish. Will be even better with another year or two in bottle. (13% alc).

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2011 (17.7). Closed and tight, this only hints at potential. The palate is superb, with hints of pineapple (? from mendoza clone vines) as well as stonefruit. This is lean and elegant, with grapefruit acidity to close. The length is admirable, but it is a modern style that needs 3 – 5 years to show its best.

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). A more opulent style that is still quite elegant, though the finish is a touch firm right now. Opens to show quality fruit and winemaking. The palate has excellent balance and you can sense that with time, the fruit will uncoil to show its power. Excellent winemaking. Compared to the Howard Park, this is quite a rich wine, but it is still well balanced.

West Cape Howe – Chardonnay – 2012 (16.5). Whilst it does not say so on the front label, this is an unwooded example. The nose is dominated by fresh and vibrant tropical fruit notes. The palate is fresh and lively, with the tropical fruit lingering. Easy summer drinking and a good alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc.

New Release Imports

Reviewed: 30 January 2013

An interesting point came up for discussion during the tasting came when one panellist berated me for not giving the white Burgundies higher points. He pointed out that the wines had only recently landed and will undoubtedly be better in a month or two’s time when they have settled.

The problem with this view is that I can only assess what is in my glass and compare that to my personal frame of reference. Perhaps my points are a little low, but this is better than having them too high.

Another point was made in regards to the points that are given to Australian wines. It was suggested that these wines were significantly better than many Australian wines and therefore should get higher points. I would counter with the view that the wines are different. A $30 Australian chardonnay scoring 17.5pts is, in my mind at least, the equal of a Burgundy scoring 17.5pts. That the wines are stylistically different does not diminish my enjoyment for both.

Indeed, I would suggest that for the average consumer who does not try many French wines, the Australian wine will be more enjoyable. We are naturally influenced by our past experiences and what we are familiar with.

This is the beauty of wine; it can be all things to all people!

A fascinating tasting of high quality wines.

White Burgundy

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.8). Restrained and tight, this is a lovely wine with really potential. There are hints of pineapple, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose in quite a modern style. Very long, slightly viscous, yet not cloying, with a lovely minerality to the fruit on the palate. The acid and oak are well judged and the oak is high quality.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault-Charmes – 2010 (17.8). Minerals and curry leaf over peach, nectarine, cashew nut and citrus fruit characters. The palate matches the nose perfectly, with intense, yet refined fruit matched to high quality oak. Seamless and creamy, the finish is a treat.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Meursault – La Barre – 2010 (17.7). Restrained on the nose compared to the Puligny. This is an elegant wine of some charm. The fruit is remarkably long and is carried by grapefruit like acidity. The length here is outstanding as is the mouth-feel and texture. The fruit builds and evolves and there are minerals and nutty fruit on the finish. A few years would only help this wine.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Puligny Montrachet – Les Chalumeaux – 2010 (17.5+). Lean and angular, this is a wine for another day. It really needs time to fill out and expand on both the nose and the palate. Perhaps from a cooler year, the structure and acidity are excellent. In terms of descriptors, the wine shows lemony fruit and acid, stonefruit, grapefruit, melon and mealy complexity.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.5+). Quite forward fruit on the nose combined with strong minerality, curry leaf and almond meal. The palate is very rich and round, showing more of the mineral characters, lemon zest, almond meal and complex, struck match and flint highlights. Not for the faint hearted, this is a rich white Burgundy.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault – Genevrieres – 2010 (17.5) Creamy fruit on the nose, with minerals and spice. Somewhat developed and honeyed, but the acid is still fresh and keeps the palate alive. Long and succulent, this is a good wine that opens and evolves. There is a touch of vanillin oak to close. A Subtle, yet abundant wine with excellent length.

Assorted Red Wines

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey-Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2010 (17.8+). More density here. Powerful, spicy fruit with hints of licorice, clove and even star anise. Long and savoury, this is a step up in terms of fruit density and quality. Textured, long and almost chewy, this is a quality wine. Needs time.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose showing ripe, fragrant fruit. The palate is more about structure and spice than ripe fruit. There is excellent length and depth to the quality fruit and the texture really fleshes out with air. An excellent Fixin from a producer to watch out for.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – 1er Cru – Givry – Clos Saint Pierre 2009 (17.3). Initially tight and restrained, this opens to show perfumed fruit on the nose and palate, with spice, cherry and plum over cedar. The fruit is not overly dense, but it is ripe and the wine is well made.

Domaine Des Combiers – Gamay – Fleurie – La Cadole – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Fragrant and lively fruit on the nose, with red berries and gentle spice. The palate is fresh, light, succulent and juicy. There are savoury hints to close on an easy drinking and quite delicious red wine. This may have seen some carbonic maceration to add more life to the fruit.

Domaine La Cabotte – Cotes du Rhone – 2008 (17). Clean and fresh, with dense dark fruits. Think licorice, spice, cinnamon and cherry. The palate is textured and spicy , with little oak influence, but really deap tasting fruit. Smart wine.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 20 December 2012

Overall, this was a smart line-up that threw up some real surprises. The highlight was the Hardy’s Oomoo. Who would have thought that a cheaper chardonnay could develop so well. It makes me think that a case of the Angove tucked away for a few years would be worth a punt, given how well it showed.

From a current drinking point of view, two wines stood out: The Willow Bridge and the Yerring Station. They are both delicious, though ultimately, the Yerring Station is the better wine, (and twice the price).

Reviewed

Millbrook – Chardonnay – Limited Release – 2011 (17.7 – 18.2). Aromas of stone-fruit and mealy, nutty characters over grapefruit and a touch of ginger spice. The palate has plenty of juicy peach fruit, with quality new oak evident. The barrel ferment and lees work adds lovely richness and texture to the palate. The length is excellent and the finish spot on. A bigger style that combines excellent fruit and quality oak, but the balance is a highlight. Will develop well.

Yering Station – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A fresh, vibrant style that has creamy stone fruit characters and fresh citrus acid on the finish. There is lovely texture and mouth-feel and the balance is spot-on. Whilst this is a great drink now, it has the potential to offer even more with a couple of years in the bottle. My pick of the tasting for current drinking, but this developed remarkably over a few days on the tasting bench, so is sure to age well for a few years.

Angove – Chardonnay – Long Row – 2012 (17.5). Wow, what a surprise this wine was! Lovely creamy fruit aromas here that are quite complex and alluring. The palate is supple, round and generous, with peach, grapefruit and minerals combining with good quality oak. The oak is very well integrated and really adds to the finish. This is a wine that I would like to drink in a few years as the fruit should really build and if anything, become more complex. At $10, this is worth a punt.

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – Hidden Cave – 2012 (17 – 17.5). This is the second time that I have reviewed this recently, and an extra month in the bottle has already seen this open up. The wine has a modern nose that shows grapefruit over stone-fruit aromas. The palate opens with clean, fresh fruit with a lovely citrus tang. There is life and vitality, with a hint of lees and oak to add interest. Not overly complex at present, this will make an excellent afternoon drink. Given time though, it will develop complexity and a degree of richness.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Oomoo – 2008 (17.5). This wine floored the panel when it was unveiled. I like the nose here for its minerals and subtle stone-fruit. There is even a hint of curry leaf that I associate with high quality burgundy. The palate has peach and nectarine flavours with quality, medium-toast oak on the finish. A supple, well integrated wine with grapefruit to close. (Not current release).

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay – Backyard Stories – 2011 (17.5). A bigger style with buttery lees and oak. Interestingly there is quite sharp acid on the finish initially that cuts through the richness. Long and juicy, the fruit is actually very good and this really builds in the glass. This just gets better and better, with the fruit really tying to the high quality oak making for a complex wine.

Shingleback – Chardonnay – Kiss Me Kate – 2012 (17.5). A firm wine that has quality fruit and oak, yet is very reserved and shy. This is very much in the mould of the modern style that Australian winemakers are embracing. The palate is lean and angular, but it will develop with time. Opens up in the glass to show lime, peach and a touch of oak spice. The oak lingers on the finish, but this should integrate back in to the fruit with a little more time in the bottle. A remarkably refined chardonnay from McLaren Vale.

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – Dragonfly – 2012 (17). Seductive nose that has clean, fresh, ripe fruit and subtle oak and lees aromas. The palate is forward, showing rich fruit characters and fresh acid. The oak is nicely textured and adds depth. A very good wine for current drinking and should be excellent value.

De Bortoli – Chardonnay – La Bossa – 2011 (16.3). Relatively simple fruit that has been expertly made. The length of the palate is a standout feature. Soft and supple, the restrained nature of this wine will work beautifully with food.

Chardonnay & Pinot Gris

Reviewed: 14 July 2012

An interesting tasting with many wines not making it to this review. The pinot gris/grigio was interesting in that there was not a clear stylistic difference between those labelled “pinot gris” and those labeled “pinot grigio”. All the same, there are some good wines here.

The chardonnays were quite a diverse group, with taster preferences influencing the results. I for one, loved the 2009 Redbrook chardonnay, a wine that managed to balance riper fruit with a degree of drinkability that was hard to resist. One wag dubbed the 2008 Redbrook “Dolly Parton” as it was upfront and obvious.

Reviewed

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2009 (17.8). Complex nose. This has it all. Pineapple and citrus fruit, creamy oak, barrel ferment and lees characters. The palate mirrors the nose well. This is long and fine. A good wine with subtle toast to close. Should continue to evolve well for a few years.

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2008 (17+/-). A complex, well-worked wine that has decent fruit. The oak is of high quality, though the medium toast characters are a touch obvious. A wine of some charm with lots of creamy oak and leesy characters over deliciously ripe fruit. If you like a bigger style of Chardonnay, you will love this!

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen and Chicken – 2011 (17). Tight, creamy oak over quality fruit with flint highlights. The palate is seamless, textured, viscous and long. This is a subtle wine of great charm.

Stormflower – Chardonnay – 2011 (17). A quality wine showing creamy oak, pineapple, citrus and a cashew nut mealy character on the palate. I like this. Long and fine, the quality oak has been very well handled, balancing fruit, oak and lees. Not subtle, but so what.

Tomich Estate – Pinot Gris – Family Reserve (17). Complex wine that has seen plenty of winemaker’s inputs. Creamy oak, with a textured palate that is long and quite fine. The fruit characters that I would expect from the style are suppressed now, but it opens to show decent aromatics, with pear, red fruits and barrel ferment/lees characters.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – 2012 (16.9). Floral and lifted, with nutty fruit to close. This is quite viscous and dense and the hint of sweetness balances the wine nicely. Expressive, there is some viscosity and it finishes quite dry. A floral Barossa white has no right to taste this good.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Grigio – Pinocchio – 2011 (16.8). More savoury than sweet fruit that suits the style well. The tart palate shows subdued fruit but is quite textured and long. This really goes on in the mouth. Well made wine.

Oxford Landing Estate – Pinot Grigio – 2011 (16). More musk-like fruit here. Nutty complexity to close with excellent length for a wine in this price range.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 14 May 2012

Some superb wines reviewed here, but none more so than the sublime Art Series Chardonnay from Leeuwin Estate. The style continues to evolve into an ever-finer style, but the quality remains superb. Some of the more expensive wines did not show well initially. With time in the glass and (importantly) food, a few really blossomed. A good example of this came from Hay Shed Hill. The standard wine looked much better when first opened, but the next day, the Block 6 really blossomed.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18.3+). This started with delicate citrus and pineapple fruit on the nose, but it was the palate of this wine that delighted me. Powerful, concentrated, taut, refined and seamless, this is a superb wine. The length of flavours is outstanding, and the persistence is excellent. Seamless oak just adds a slightly toasty note to the finish. Serious, very carefully crafted, with wonderful acid to sustain the palate. Deserves a gold medal, but needs years to show its absolute best.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (17.8+). A touch more fruit up front, though the palate has intense minerality on top of powerful mendoza clone fruit. Ripe, though there is tingling acidity on a finish that really goes on. Builds in the mouth and will blossom with time. This wine was even better with food the next day.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – Block 6 – 2011 (17.5 – 18). A very good wine that is just far too young. Patience will be rewarded, so drink the standard release while you wait for this one to mature.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Quite closed on the nose, while the palate is refined and supple. Sympathetic oak on the finish tends towards a touch of toast. This is balanced, fine and long, that took a day or two to show its best, but if you are impatient, it is fine drinking right now.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5). I like this. Fresh fruit and acid, with lovely minerality and spice on the nose. The palate has underlying power and is very long, though somewhat taut and unrewarding right now. Even six months will allow this wine to blossom. Excellent fruit, winemaking and creamy (high quality) oak to close.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and reserved, this is a taut wine that, while very well made, is not quite together yet. Oak, lemony fruit and acid are all good, but this needs a year to settle down. A serious wine.

Cave de Lugny – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – 2010 (17). Hints of pineapple, struck match and curry leaf with a finish that is very dry and full of minerality. A complex, interesting wine that, whilst not everyone’s cup of tea, is a stylish wine that I enjoyed.

The Lane – Chardonnay – Beginning – 2009 (17+). Fresh, tight and delicious with a creamy textural component. This is not an overly dense wine, but it is a great drink. The finish is long and fine with well judged phenolics. Needs a year or two to open up.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Peachy fruit that is quite straightforward, though there are attractive worked characters on the nose and palate. Fresh and clean, with a touch of vanillin oak influence adding to a creamy finish. Well made.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2011 (16.5) A good quality wine here. Lemon brulée over tight fruit characters. Minerals, spice, flint and creamy oak all integrate on a stylish palate. Good length to a wine that is very well made and will be at its peak in about 6 – 12 months.

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Rolling – 2011 (16.5). Well made wine that received very strong support from two panellists. Value drinking over the next year or two.

Drakesbrook – Chardonnay – The Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Another well made wine that is not overly complex, but is a good drink now. With solid support from the entire panel, this represents value!

Oxford Landing Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (16). A delicate wine, with stonefruit on the nose. The simple palate is commercial but sound, with a nice core of acid. Well made and exceptional value.

Aged White Wines

Whites – Mixed

Reviewed: 10 February 2011

With Summer in full swing, our group embarked on a tasting of quality whites that were a few years old. We ended up with an eclectic selection of (very) high quality wines.

Reviewed

Bruno Sorg – Riesling – Pfersigberg – Grand Cru – 2003 (17.5). Lovely oily texture, a hint of residual sugar and fresh acid makes for a lovely wine. Has a hint of floral notes and the very creamy, high quality oak rounds out the finish. Smart, seamless and beautifully crafted. From Alsace.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.3). Perfectly ripe fruit on the nose with pineapple overtones. The oak is evident on the palate, though there are some tropical fruit notes underneath. Opens with air, developing butterscotch and stonefruit. Gets better and will settle further with age.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2004 (17.8). Seamless and beautifully balanced, this is a superb wine. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on and the finish is near seamless. The quality oak merely caresses the finish on the close and the length is driven by the elegant fruit.

Leasingham – Riesling – Classic Clare – 2005 (17.7). Lovely riesling that is fresh, lively, floral, vibrant, seamless, long and intense. This is a very fine wine of real class. Excellent length. Is showing the first signs of age, but is still very youthful.

Sonoma Cutrer – Chardonnay – Russian River Ranchs – 2008 (17.8). Another superb wine. This is a richer style with plenty of quality winemaking inputs. Think creamy oak, lees stirring and (partial?) malo-lactic fermentation. Again, the mendoza clone is evident, but the pineapple fruit characters are well handled. There are plenty of stonefruit notes and almond to close.

Domain Emilan Gillet – Chardonnay – Quintaine – Vire-Clesse – 2002 (18.2). Very interesting wine. Superb palate with great length. It is the exhilarating acid that makes the finish so memorable. Lemon brullee, texture and spice on a palate that builds and evolves. Excellent chablis with minerals to burn. At its peak.

Domaine Chandon De-Brialles – Chardonnay – Corton – Grand Cru – 2005 (18). Very creamy nose, this wine is a highlight. Intense and powerful, there is still a degree of restraint. Superb fruit, the wine really builds and is classically structured. The minerality on the palate is superb.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 06A – 2006 (17.5+). Wow. Amazing wine. Young and fresh, the high quality fruit and oak are evident, but not integrated. Has a long future, but needs five to ten years to peak.

Alain Gautheron – Chardonnay – Chablis – Vaucaupin – 1er Cru – 2005 (18.3). A superb wine here. Very tight and fresh, this is a seamless version of fine burgundy. Refined, this is delicate and very fine. Needs years, but enjoyable now. Amazing Chablis.

Rene Lequin-Colin – Chardonnay – Batard-Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2002 (18). Honeyed, long and rich, this is a developed but delightful wine of class and pedigree.

Heidi Schrock – Welsch Riesling/Pinot Gri/Pinot Blanc/Chardonnay – Ruster Ausbruch – 2005 (18.5). Apricot to the fore on the nose, this is really rich and enticing. Wow, immensely intense, yet beautifully balanced and refined. Botrytis to the fore, but the balance is special. Superb!

Guiraut – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Saturnes – 1er Cru – 1997 (18). Very cold. Pungent and raisin-like on the nose, this is a less mainstream and less sweet style that is refreshing yet spicy. As it warms, this opens to show viscosity and texture. Shows lots of almond meal and cashew with air. Delicious.

Le Mont – Chenin Blanc – Vouvray – Molleux – 1997 (17.5). Bread dough and a touch of ferment notes. Shines on the palate with great line and length. This is a very precise wine, that is aged and long. Complex, this really builds in the mouth. Drying finish, this is a delicate wine that shows spice to close. Won’t appeal to everyone, but worth trying.

Castagnia – Viognier – Aqua Santa – NV (17.7). Complex and deve

Chardonnay, Pinot and Rose

New Release

Reviewed: 15 February 2012

Is it just me or are wineries releasing their wines earlier and earlier? Many of the wines reviewed here need a year or two to show their best. If you are drinking them young, don’t serve them too cold and give them time in the glass to open up.

There were also a few good value pinot noirs.

Reviewed

Rose

Chene Bleu – Grenache/Shiraz – Rose – 2009 (16.5). Lovely pale salmon colour. Savoury, dry and refreshing, this has nice mouth-feel and texture. Good length and a touch of oiliness on the finish adds interest. This is a smart wine that will suit antipasto well.

Poudriere – Rose – Bastide Du Claux – 2010 (16.9). Very pale colour to what is a very pretty wine. Dry and refreshing, this has some lovely red berries on the palate with a savoury finish. Good mouth-feel and weight with a hint of oak influence perhaps?

Chardonnay

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2009 (18+). Deeper colour here. Tight and lean on the nose, showing white peach, citrus and hints of honey and toast. The power and quality of the fruit really comes through on the palate. This is complex and very intense, with rich stonefruit notes over a textured, complex finish. The vanillin oak and buttery lees notes complement the fruit very well. A serious wine of real power, this will delight over the next 5 years. From the Great Southern.

Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2010 (17.9+). A tighter style that works really well. This is elegant and long, showing grapefruit, peach and nectarine on the palate. Quality oak adds complexity to the finish. Pineapple acid adds to the finish as does a touch of mineral and struck match. This got even better with a day on the tasting bench.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). Subdued and tight, this is seamless and silky in the mouth. An unusual wine in that no features define the wine, but it is very enjoyable. An elegant wine with a touch of musk to close. Will take a couple of years to hit its straps and fill out.

Yering Station – Chardonnay – Village – 2010 (17.2). Compared to the Howard Park, this is delicate and refined. A precise wine with hints of citrus and nectarine over a creamy finish. Very well made, the gentle oak and lees contact really adds to the package. Good length too. One panellist noted that the wine was very well made, using the fruit to best effect.

Hill-Smith Estate – Chardonnay – Eden Valley – 2010 (17). Complex, creamy nose, with an appealing minerality on top. Powerful fruit on the palate that has been massaged with some skill in the winery. Quality oak is a bit obvious now, but should settle, as the wine integrates well with air.

Yering Station – Chardonnay – Little Yering – 2010 (16.9). Well made, if uncomplicated wine with varietally correct fruit characters and enough winemaking inputs to flesh out the palate. Easy drinking and enjoyable.

The Arm Chair Critic – Chardonnay – Over & Under – 2010 (16.5). This received good support with the panel appreciating the good length and pretty fruit that had grapefruit overtones. Will be better in another year or so and should represent good value.

Pinot Noir

St Huberts – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17 – 17.5). Delicate fruit on the nose. The palate hints at strawberry. This is very well made and quite silky, while the textural components add life to the mid palate. Very good length, this needs 5 years to show its best. Great to see a wine of this quality under this label.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Village – 2010 (17.3). Fresh, vibrant and appealing wine. There are hints of cherry and plenty of spice, with good length and a touch of complexity on the finish. This actually builds nicely in the mouth, suggesting that a few years would see it improve. Develops fleshy fruit of real appeal with air. Cherry and spice to close.

Mad Fish – Pinot Noir – Grand Stand – 2010 (17.2). A bigger style with immediate appeal. There is lovely cherry fruit with hints of plum and aniseed on the finish. In fact, there is a touch of fresh fennel and star anise. This is lush and velvety in the mouth and oh so easy to drink. Not that complex, but who cares.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Little Yering – 2010 (16.7). Some appeal here. This is a straightforward, slightly sappy wine that would suit food well. There is, perhaps, a touch of carbonic maceration that adds a hint of candy.