Reviewed 14 August 2011
I continue to be surprised at just how tight and fresh Western Australian SSB/SBS/SB can be. Several wines in this tasting would really benefit from 6 – 12 months in the bottle to really settle down and they will drink well for a few years after that.
Not that many years ago, I would have suggested drinking the youngest wines available, but now I will go as far as to say that we should look out for the 2010 vintage wines, as they are more approachable right now.
The other surprising point from this tasting was the overall quality of the wines reviewed. I would happily drink any of the wines listed below.
Reviewed
Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Margaret River – 2009 (17.7). This is more interesting. Smoke, flint and match strike. A complex palate that has real depth of flavours. Obviously barrel fermented, this is a serious wine that needs some time to settle down. A quality wine that would make a good alternative to chardonnay.
Shepard’s Hut – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.6). Nice wine this. Well judged tropical fruit that is ripe, clear and restrained. The palate is textured, long and fine. This is quite complex, with lees and perhaps a small portion of barrel fermented fruit. Excellent length and a touch of sherbet on a balanced finish.
Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre 2010 (17.5+). Very vibrant and forward. Tremendous acidity over quality fruit. Delicate, pretty, complex, depth and length of flavours with a touch of viscosity and phenolics. Wild yeast, new oak in part. This will be even better with a year in bottle.
Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Sideways – 2011 (17.5). A lovely, seductive nose. Complex, enticing and round. Yes, there are some tropical and grassy fruit notes, but there are also complex aromas and flavours, courtesy of the cleverly handled winemaking. I wonder if this has had a small component of fruit that has had some barrel ferment and lees contact. Lovely texture and mouth-feel. Creamy finish with length.
Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Frog Belly – 2010 (17.5). Softer nose with gentle fruit that has grassy notes and a touch of musk. Soft, round and generous palate with just enough acidity to balance the palate. Surprising length and lovely texture. A good drink, and should be good value.
Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17-18). Amazing nose! Pungent and very complex. Yes, there are typical SB notes with grassy, herbaceous fruit characters, but there is so much more. Barrel ferment, oak aged, lees stirring, this has it all. The palate retains remarkable freshness despite all the worked characters. A powerful wine, but not for the faint hearted. This wine polarised the panel, as the style pushes the boundaries (I was a supporter).
Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17+). Round, soft and textural. A youthful style that is very delicate and refined. This will blossom in time and score higher points too.
Talisman – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Punchy nose. Vibrant and lifted fruit that has hints of musk and sherbet with lime acidity to close. Good length and intensity. Well made, with floral fruit, this needs a couple of months for the ferment characters to completely settle. Worth a try.
d’Arenberg – Sauvignon Blanc – The Stump Jump – 2010 (16.7). Interesting nose suggesting that this has quality fruit notes. Grassy and herbaceous, but with a tropical lift to close. Smart wine of some appeal that should be very good value.