Reviewed: March 1, 2014
An excellent range of aromatic white wines, all of which offer the ability to be cellared for at least a few years or, in the case of the Cherubino and Singlefile, long term cellaring.
Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18 – 18.5). Bottled lime juice! Excellent fruit that is very dense and powerful. An attractive wine that has, perhaps, a little assertive acidity right now. The palate is very long and fine, but needs time to show its best. Will age gracefully, and pointed accordingly. ($35).
Seppelt – Riesling – Drumborg Vineyard – 2013 (18+). Delicate, restrained, fragrant and near seamless, until the vein of taut acidity cuts through the palate. This is a lovely wine that combines finesse and balance, with fine acid balance. Tremendous length, with the merest hint of residual sugar that adds to the finish. Length, fragrant, long, softness, aromatics, will age superbly. (The vineyard was planted in1964. $40).
Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18). Restrained and elegant, with steely minerality. This is a very fine/subtle wine, though there is no doubting the quality. In the mouth, the wine is complete, though the fresh acidity cuts across the talc-like minerality and apple/citrus fruit. Excellent length to close. ($25).
Ad Hoc – Riesling – Wall Flower – 2013 (17.9). Fragrant honeysuckle and jasmine over a steely core. The palate is very fine and long. Whilst there is ample acidity, this is supple and silky, with good fruit to close. Lingering, with just a touch of phenolic richness. Not as concentrated as the best from Larry Cherubino, but an excellent wine all the same. ($21).
Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – Pemberton – 2013 (17.5 – 18) A complex nose that combines grassy fruit with barrel fermentation and lees characters. The palate is flooded with lemony acid, though again, there are some complex winemaker’s inputs. A smart wine that deserves some thought and decent food, rather than just quaffing. ($35).
Rocky Gully – Riesling – 2013 (17.5). Closed, with assertive acidity at first. Underneath, there are lovely lime juice characters from the quality fruit. Mouth-watering and very long.
Wynns – Riesling – 2012 (17.5). A gentle wine that, whilst not as concentrated as some here, is long and satisfying. Balanced, this is quite a delicate wine with fine acidity. There are citrus notes and the potential to age well in the short to medium term. Having said that, this is a good wine to drink now. ($17).