Australian Fortified Part 3: Other Styles
Barry Weinman: 7th August 2016
The Talijancich Pedro is nothing short of spectacular. Expensive, but beautifully packaged. One sip is almost enough.
In a very different style is the De Bortoli Black Nobel. An amazing wine made from botrytis Semillon.
Talijancich – Pedro – Rare – Julian James – Blend No 3 (19pts – $70). Almost opaque: burnt orange, tending to olive. Very intense, powerful nose, the complex aged material balanced by rancio and spirit notes. The palate is intense, dense, long and unctuous, but not cloying. An amazing wine that has an ethereal nature, the spirit and fruit in perfect harmony. Stunning. 350 mls
De Bortoli – Black Nobel – 10 y/o (18.6pts – $38). Another opaque, very dark wine – staining the glass amber. Here the Rancio and resin notes are more apparent, with raisins and fruit-cake aromas that are really quite fragrant. Sweetness is obvious, with musk and spice notes. The acid adds life and keeps the whole package together. Impressive and impactful, a unique use of Botrytis Semillon. 500mls.
Lamont’s – R.S.W. Liqueur (18.5pts ). A blend of Pedro and Muscat (Navara). Khaki meniscus. Lovely old material, with rancio and spirit balanced by intense fruit. The palate is thick and lush, yet retains balance via the acidity. The spirit notes add vibrancy. Middle of the road style and delicious. A blend that started in the early 1980’s from a single barrel. Fortunately, there are now several barrels released each year. 375mls
Lamont’s – Pedro (18pts). Whilst there is no mention on the front label, this is from the 2005 vintage. A lighter amber colour. More Rancio, more sweetness, more obvious. Viscous and thick, there is so much of everything, yet avoids being cloying. Perfect poured over ice-cream! 375mls