The Lenswood subregion in the Adelaide Hills

The Lenswood subregion in the Adelaide Hills

Brendan Jansen MW: 25th November 2019

A day trip to the Adelaide Hills as part of the MW seminar culminated in a tasting and lunch at Anderson Hill winery. Producers from the newly defined subregion gathered to enlighten us about the benefits and rationale of naming their subregion, and to outline specific characteristics of the area.

At a higher altitude than most of the Adelaide Hills, it is the only named subregion in the Adelaide Hills other than Piccadilly. Discussion touched upon the pros and cons of introducing a subregional brand to the Adelaide Hills brand, and whether the classification was for the benefit of consumers or producers.

The wine intelligentsia from other South Australian regions have long recognised the cooler region as unique, with Pikes (from the Clare) and Henschke (Eden Valley) having vineyards in the area. In the case of Pike, it was a partnership with the Joyce family resulting in the Pike and Joyce label. Henschke have been in the area for 18 vintages.

We were treated to a selection of excellent wines, in varying styles. Below are just a few that caught my eye:

Henschke Blanc de Noir MD (mature disgorged) MV (multi vintage):

Made in the transfer method with a cache of wines from 18 vintages going into the blend, this wine was impressive for its complexity. RRP $60 17.5/20 points

Turon Wines Chardonnay 2018

Sleek, slender but not corseted, wild ferment, 20% new oak, partial malolactic. What a delightful wine! Watch out for this winemaker  – his reputation is already burgeoning. RRP $35 18.5/20 pts

Golding Wines La Francesca Savagnin 2014

A really interesting wine, one of those “we thought it was Albarino” plantings but made into a delicious, complex semi-aromatic wine. RRP $25 17.5/20 pts

            Golding Wines Ombre Gamay 2019

Fresh, juicy, crunchy even, would blow any Beaujolais out of the water.

RRP $35 18/20

            Anderson Hill Art Series Pinot Noir 2016 “Down She Goes”

A mix of funky, earthy elements with sweet fruit. Ticks all the Pinot boxes. RRP ~$35 17.5/20 pts

Pike and Joyce WJJ Pinot Noir 2018

Subdued to start, but grows. At this price point, why go to Burgundy? RRP ~$65 18/20 pts

Turon Wines Pinot Noir 2019

Bright cherry nose, clean with silky tannin structure and a savoury, anise edge. 30% whole bunches, wild yeasts, nine months in barrel, 20% new. RRP~$35. Watch out for this release. 18.5/20 pts