Reviewed: 21 August 2012

The opportunity to try the wines of 10 of Victoria’s best wineries was something that I could not pass up. The fact that I had to fly half way around the world (well from Perth to Sydney anyway), added to the anticipation. My focus going into the tasting was chardonnay and pinot, so these are the wines that got most of my attention.

An interesting point to come out of the tasting was the number of producers who have not adopted screw-cap. A significant number of the wines were under cork and Diam.

So to the wines. As you would expect from some of Australia’s best wineries, the quality was outstanding. There was a variety of styles, with pinot and chardonnay dominating many of the producer’s offerings. That said, the shiraz and cabernet based wines were also top notch.

In general, the wines reflected the diverse terroir that is found across the wine growing regions of Victoria. Whilst I was unable to accurately pinpoint any distinct regional styles, individual winery styles were very evident. Vintage conditions also imparted an effect, with 2010 being a very generous year.

There were no bad wines on offer, though space restricts me from writing up every wine I tasted. This was not a blind tasting, so I was seduced by the label and in many cases, the winemaker who was pouring the wines. Many of these wineries are personal favourites of mine, which does not help.

Without a doubt, the highlight for me was looking through the range from Bass Phillip. It is a shame that I will need to sell a kidney to be able to afford any ☺.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting and i was further biased by having the winemakers to talk to as I tasted through the wines.:

Bannockburn

Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A very complex wine that has seen the full gamut of winemaking inputs, yet retains a degree of finesse that adds to the charm. Powerful fruit over struck match, lees and barrel ferment notes. Quite funky really. The palate is remarkable for its refinement and balance with creamy, textural components complemented by refreshing acidity. Excellent length on the finish.

Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). More Burgundian in style than many here, though with a touch more fruit than a Nuit St George for example. This is complex, silky, dense and chewy, with drying tannins and acidity to hold the finish together well.

Bass Phillip

Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18.5pts). Very complex and worked, with richness and underlying power to the fruit. The palate has melon and pineapple fruit that really builds. Lovely texture and the length is outstanding. An immensely complex wine that needs no accompaniment!

Chardonnay – Premium – 2010 (18.5+). A case of more is less. Initially, this has remarkable restraint and finesse. The wine really builds in the glass and hints at the latent power that is waiting to uncoil as this wine develops in the bottle.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18 – 18.5). A gorgeous nose here that evolves and entices in the glass. The palate is elegant, textured, balanced and fine. The fruit is supple, yet ripe and the length and mouth-feel are spot on. The quality oak frames the fruit perfectly and adds to the appeal.

Pinot Noir – Premium – 2010 (18.5). A superb wine! The quality fruit is complex, balanced and textured and the length and power are in another dimension. This is relatively tannic and tight, the new oak adding grip and texture. The structure does, however sit beautifully with the fruit. Whist this is more approachable than the 2009, I would still recommend time in the cellar.

Bindi

Chardonnay – Quartz – 2010 (18.2). A superb nose that is a harmonious blend of quality fruit, oak and barrel ferment/lees characters. The palate is tight and fine, yet the underlying power of the fruit is undeniable. The acid and the oak suppress the fruit now, but with air this becomes rich, textured and very long.

Pinot Noir – Composition – 2010 (17). Fresh and supple fruit with decent length and weight. Uncomplicated and a good drink.

Pinot Noir – Original Vineyard – 2010 (18). More restrained, with darker fruits, cherry and lovely earthy/forest floor characters. The palate is dense, structured, and tight. I suggest pairing this with food if you are going to drink it now.

Pinot Noir – Block 5 Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). Intense fruit and lovely structure to this. The latent power tantalizes and tempts. I would like to give this up to 10 years in the cellar.

Craiglee

Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Complex and worked, this is a rich and creamy style of wine with great appeal. The palate is taut and fine and there are quality winemaking inputs. The balance is excellent and the oak (25% new) should settle down with a year in the bottle.

Crawford River

It is very refreshing to see a winery selling wine with some bottle age. The current release for the cabernet is 2005 and the cab/merlot 2006. The extra age added a delicious degree of drinkability. I tried these wines late in the tasting, so I have not reviewed them here. I do hope to be reacquainted with them soon though, as the quality was excellent!

Dalwhinnie

I have loved the wines from this producer for a long time and they are built to last. Although not tasted here, the chardonnay also does well in the cellar.

Cabernet Sauvignon – (18.5). 2010 Spectacular wine! Classic cabernet fruit showing mint and hints of red fruits. The structure is outstanding and the palate displays tremendous power, yet at the same time being tight and restrained. The balance is outstanding and the saying “iron fist in a velvet glove” comes to mind. Although the shiraz gets all the hype with this producer, this may well be the wine of the entire tasting.

Jasper Hill

Like Crawford River, I came to the superb wines of Jasper Hill late in the tasting. The quality of both the whites and reds are outstanding. I can only hope to try these wines again as they are a worthy addition to any cellar.

Moorooduc Estate

Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). Tight and restrained, with citrus and melon fruit characters. Taut and fine, the palate is near seamless. Partial (60%) malo-lactic fermentation preserves the acidity in what was a warmer year. Plenty of potential to improve with a few years in the cellar, but if you are going to drink it now, don’t serve it too cold.

Chardonnay – 2010 (18). The fruit here has opened up a bit more, with melon, pineapple and lovely citrus acidity. The palate is rich, complex and nicely textured. The creamy finish complements the fruit superbly (from lees and oak influences). A great drink.

Chardonnay – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). A richer, bigger wine than the Estate, with more power on the palate. The length is notable.

Pinot Noir – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). Wow, lovely perfume to the bright fruit, though the concentrated power is hinted at. Cherry and strawberry fruit initially on the palate, with a quality oak backbone. With air, the palate really opens up, fills out and evolves, becoming complex and long.

Tarrawarra Estate

I must confess that I have been a fan of this operation for a very long time. Year in, year out, their pinots have always done well in any tasting they have appeared in.

Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18 pts). Complex, nutty/almond meal and mineral complexity over creamy oak, lees and barrel ferment aromas. The palate is tight, restrained and very fine, though the fruit builds to show melon and peach characters. The lack of malo-lactic fermentation here contributes to this modern expression of Australian chardonnay.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18). Fragrant, balanced, gentle and textured. The sweet, ripe fruit has been expertly matched to the quality oak. Good now, but will be better in 2-3 years.

Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Greater depth to the fruit compared to the Estate. There is still the sweet fruit and lovely balance, but there is just more depth and a touch of grip to the finish. Supple, long and fine, the silky oak frames the fruit beautifully.

Yeringberg

Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5). Perfumed and balanced fruit on the nose. The fragrant fruit continues on the palate, with cherry, and a touch of toast courtesy of the oak. Good length and texture on the finish.

Cabernet Blend – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Concentrated nose showing mint, cedar, mulberry and spice. Long and tight, the palate has fantastic fruit that is dense, restrained, long and tight. A lovely wine with superb structure on the finish. Only 13% alcohol, and all the better for it.

Shiraz – 2010 (18). Pepper, clove, cinnamon and restrained fruit on the nose. This has marvellous texture and mouth-feel. The fruit is really supple, spicy and textured. Delicious.