Wines I like to Drink: Deep Woods in Focus
Barry Weinman: 23rd September 2024
That the team at Deep Woods are making great wines should come as no surprise to anyone. Their show record over the last decade with cabernet is unmatched by anyone. And the chardonnays have quietly been amassing a swag of trophies and gold medals along the way.
This run of show success is likely to continue, given the superb quality of the upcoming spring releases.
What stood out with a tasting of the yet to be released premium 2023 chardonnays and 2022 cabernets was just how fantastic they are to drink right now. Don’t get me wrong, the wines (especially the cabernets) will age very well, but they are also immensely enjoyable on release.
According to the winemaking team, 2023 was a near perfect year for chardonnay, and it is easy to see why with wines like these. And the 2022 vintage for cabernet is being lauded far and wide.
When you factor in price, the offering is irresistible. The Reserve Chardonnay is likely to sell for $80 and the Reserve Cabernet for $90. A bargain on the world wine stage!
The wines are due for release in November and I, for one, will be queuing up to buy them.
NB. I reviewed the wines with Matt and Emma from the winemaking team in an unmasked tasting. Points are an indicator only.
Reviewed
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Albarino- 2024. The fruit for this wine comes from recent plantings on the Amadeus Vineyard in Wilyabrup. The aim of the winemaking was to preserve fruit and retain freshness. A goal that they have achieved very well. Aromas of nectarine and pear lead the nose, but it is the textural, slightly viscous palate where this really shines. Gentle phenolics, hints of lemon pith and lime-like acidity combine to make for an excellent wine to serve with salt and pepper squid. 12.5% alc, 93pts, $35.
Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. Restrained and fine, yet quite deep and complex, the fine fruit and supple winemaking combining perfectly. The citrus and subtle peach fruit notes are supported by a silky texture and mineral-laden acidity. From a vineyard in Karridale, what is most remarkable is that the fruit is Gingin clone, yet it offers a tighter, more linear expression of the variety, where citrus has replaced the tropical notes. Will be great with foods such as grilled chorizo. 13.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This has everything turned up a notch. More depth of fruit, more complexity from the winemaking and more impact from the texturing oak. Here, the citrus has been replaced with the more typical tropical/pineapple acidity. Lees and barrel work add greatly, with minerality and struck match notes really adding to the mix. And there is tremendous length and persistence of flavours. The fruit is primarily from Wilyabrup and spent time in 35% new oak (a combination of barriques, hogs heads and puncheons). A superb wine that deserves to be considered amongst the region’s finest. 13.0% alc, 96pts – $80.00.
Deep Woods – G2 Single Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Leads with a wonderful nose which includes blueberry and blackberry fruit. The resolved tannins and oak add supporting structure and mouthfeel, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Superb drinking and so, so long. Yes, it should age, but honestly, I would not bother as it is such a good drink now. 14.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.
Deep Woods – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow, wow, wow. This is so impressive. The power, intensity, structure and complexity are turned up to 10, yet this is still only medium bodied and offers immediate drinking pleasure. Brilliant winemaking, the integrated, highly polished oak is a highlight. This is more blackcurrant and spice rather than blue fruits and the tremendous length and the mouthfeel is a rare pleasure. Despite all the power, this is elegance personified. A point of differentiation between this and many of the other great Margaret River cabernets is that this uses Yallingup fruit of the estate vineyard right out the front of the winery, as opposed to Wilyabrup fruit. 14.0% alc, 97pts – $90.00.
Deep Woods – Septimus – Single Vineyard – Cabernet Malbec – 2022. In comparison to the Reserve and G2, this is more impactful, swapping some of the polish from the Reserve and juiciness of the G2 and replacing these with raw power. With earthy undertones and a touch of herbs and spice, the savoury notes from the malbec really add. Having said that, this is still a slick, polished and sophisticated wine. Muscular and age-worthy, a fascinating counterpoint to the previous wines. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $50.00.