Evoi: Pre-Release Tasting – Sept 2021

Barry Weinman: 10^th September 2021

I first became acquainted with Evoi wines 18 months ago at the behest of Brendan Jansen _MW. He raved about the quality and value on offer. At the end of my visit, I was in full agreement.

I was also impressed that the wines had been held back and released with some bottle age.

Last week, Matt Holden (the Western Australian distributor) popped in to show off the current vintage wines and give us the opportunity to try some of the future releases.

As always with this type of exercise, it was fascinating to see how the vintage variations played out in the wines. The quality was uniformly high, but there were subtle variations in the style.

Prices for the newer vintages are on the rise, so now is a good opportunity to stock up on some of the aged wines.

NB. These wines were not tasted blind, so points are only a guide.

Reviewed

Evoi – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2017. On the nose, the vibrant, herbaceous SB fruit comes to the fore, whilst on the palate, the creamy, textured, near seamless mouthfeel is a highlight. An excellent wine and great drinking at four years of age. 92-93pts – $28

Evoi – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2016. A lovely wine where the supple, elegant fruit is perfectly framed by fine-grained quality oak. Creamy and textural, with a slight savoury edge, this is both elegant but impactful. Gentle toast notes build on the finish. Dangerously easy to drink. 94pts – $69.

Evoi – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2017. This smells expensive, with curry leaf minerality reminding me of a powerful Corton. The white nectarine fruit is textured, reserved and slightly chewy, with gentle tropical and pineapple notes. Minerality builds on the finish. With density and richness, the power belies the cooler year. 95pts – $69.

Evoi – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015. Serious fruit that has depth, texture and power. Impressive density of fruit for a wine at this price point and worthy of time in the cellar. A bargain. 93pts – $35.

Evoi – The Satyr – Cabernet Blend – 2014. Impenetrable density of fruit. There is so much on offer, but this is so tightly wound that you are assailed by the power without the fruit getting a chance to fully express its character right now. A special wine that demands a decade in the cellar to unwind. 95+pts – $69.

Evoi – The Satyr – Cabernet Blend – 2015. Like the 2014, there is real depth, but here the fruit has a chance to shine. Pretty Cabernet blueberry fruit, with supple oak adding complexity and texture. Not quite as powerful as the previous, making this a great medium-term drink whilst waiting for the 2014 to open up. 94pts – $69.

Evoi – The Satyr – Cabernet Blend – 2016. Here, the vibrant fruit and the skilled winemaking collide to make for a great drinking wine. Serious? Yes, but also full of life and personality. Worthy of time in the cellar, but hard to resist now. 95+pts – $69.

New Releases Whites: September 2021

Barry Weinman: 5^th September 2021

The latest Castle Rock Rieslings are a fascinating trio of wines. The fruit for the Porongurup and Skywalk is exactly the same, with the free run juice going into the Porongurup and the light pressings going into the Skywalk.

The extra skin contact for the Skywalk results in a wine with more phenolic richness and texture making it more approachable and satisfying in the short term. Whereas the pure fruit in the Porongorup needs years to really shine.

Sitting comfortably in the middle is the RS21. With 21 grams/litre of residual sugar, this is an off-dry style similar to a German Kabinett. Refreshing and delicious, this could be the perfect wine for a warm spring afternoon.

Reviewed.

Castle Rock – Skywalk– Riesling – 2021. Very pale. The fragrant fruit is initially a touch muted on the nose. The palate is taut and fresh, with lemony fruit balanced by refreshing acidity. There is more obvious mid-palate weight and gentle phenolic texture resulting in a wine that is great drinking now or over the next 5 years. Excellent intensity and length on the close. 93pts – $21.

Castle Rock – RS21 – Riesling – 2021. The sweetness is more obvious here, in keeping with a German Kabinett. Vibrant and racy, with an intense core of fruit. Delicious and moreish. Not a style for everyone but worth trying. 92pts – $21.

Duke’s – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2021. This is pretty, delicate, fine, restrained and balanced, with excellent length of flavours. A little shy at this early stage but time in the bottle will see it blossom. 92pts.

Dancing Queen – By Merrill – Riesling – 2021 . With very pretty floral and lime fruit this is a little more aromatic than many Rieslings. Lively and fresh, with excellent acidity and good length of flavours. This would be a good alternative to a SB on a warm spring afternoon while chatting with friends. 91pts – $25

C’est Pas La Mer À Boire – Picpoul de Poul De Pinet – 2020. Lively and fresh, with excellent texture and gentle viscosity. Gentle honey and saline notes add interest. Phenolics and perhaps a touch of residual adding mouthfeel. 89pts – $22.

Sandalford – 1840 – Rose – 2021. Despite the very pale colour, this has impressive intensity. Fresh, floral, and pretty, with gentle berry notes. The palate is surprisingly dry and savoury, with fairly neutral fruit and excellent texture. A good effort and sure to be a hit with a platter of antipasto. 89pts – $25.

Grosset 2021 Rieslings

Barry Weinman: 1^st September 2021

If, like me, you are a fan of Riesling, then the wines of Grosset need no introduction. After all, they have been lauded by both consumers and critics for more than two decades.

But, as a consumer it is easy to become complacent, and go searching for new experiences and new producers. In addition to the plethora of Clare and Eden Valley producers, Western Australia and Tasmania are consistently producing some exquisite Rieslings.

With this in mind, the tasting panel were almost shocked at just how breathtakingly beautiful the 2021 Rieslings from Grosset are.

I think every Riesling fanatic in Australia should try these wines, as they are the benchmark by which all other wines should be judged.

And if further proof of Jeffery Grosset’s brilliance is required, he has released a wonderfully fragrant and silky Fiano that is unlike any that I have tasted before.

Reviewed

Grosset – Springvale- Riesling – 2021. Exquisite wine. Precise, taut and restrained, but with a core of amazing fruit. Gentle lime comes to the fore, with a touch of zest adding the high notes. The silky mouthfeel is seamless, with amazingly fine and polished acidity that has the ability to carry this wine for decades in the cellar. Delicious and profound all at once. 96+pts

Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2021 . The aromatics here are a highlight. This is fleshy, juicy and packed with citrus fruit over a hint of musk. The palate is supple and has amazing intensity, with the fruit framed by slate and mineral notes. Great depth and length of fruit. With a riot of flavours, this is a super-fun wine now but also guaranteed to age for decades. 97pts

Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2021. This is fragrant, floral and very fine, with gentle tropical fruit, berries, a touch of honey and hints of musk. The residual sugar just serves to highlight the beautiful fruit here and adds depth and mouthfeel on the finish. A complete wine that tastes like spring in a glass. 94pts

Grosset – Apiana – Fiano – 2021. This is quite superb. Fine, elegant and very long, with fresh floral fruit notes over perfumed talc and gentle spice. Length and persistence are a highlight with perhaps just a hint of residual sugar adding texture. A real surprise! 93pts

August 2021: New Releases

Barry Weinman: 23th August 2021

In what must surely be the most exciting news in Australian wine this year, Ross Pamment has taken on the role of Senior Winemaker at Sandalford. Given the mature vineyard holdings that Sandalford have, I am very keen to see the results.

Below is a cross-section of some of the more worthwhile wines that the panel reviewed over the last six weeks.

Reviewed

Ashbrook Estate – Margaret River – Verdelho – 2020. Comforting, user friendly and delicious. Bright tropical fruit, with gentle phenolics adding to the supple mouthfeel. 91pts – $27

Ashbrook Estate – Semillon – 2020. The nose is clean and fresh with lanolin and bitter almond highlights. The palate is textured, chewy, mouth-coating and long. Try food with a bit of spice or even chilli crabs. 91pts – $27

Ashbrook Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2019. Lanolin and lemon pith from the Semillon, with bright Sauvignon Blanc fruit adding the high notes. This is a delight to drink as the balance, texture, mouthfeel and length are all commendable. 91pts – $27

Faber – Frankland River – Malbec– 2020. Lots of minty eucalypt over red currant and blackberry fruit. The palate is very long, with a savoury texture and gently chewy tannins. Excellent oak use. This is quite robust in its youth, so drink it with rich food, or tuck it away in the cellar for the next 5-10 years. 92pts – $35.

Faber – Riche – Shiraz – 2020. Another delicious wine under this label. Here, the ripe fruit is combined with savoury tannins and gentle savoury oak. The freshness and balance make this a great early drink, but history suggests that this will be even better with 10 years in the bottle, given the depth of fruit on show. 93pts – $30.

Giant Steps – Fatal Shore – Pinot Noir– 2019. Pretty perfumed strawberry and cherry fruit the focus, yet there is depth and power sitting underneath. The textural components are aided by some whole-bunch ferment savoury characters. The palate is linear and a bit closed, but this will blossom with time in a decanter, or a few years in the cellar. 93pts – $75.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2018. Taut, with muted fruit, this is a restrained, cooler climate wine, with drying tannins adding texture. Cassis/blackcurrant fruit builds. This would work very well with food now but would benefit from 5 – 10 years cellaring. 93pts – $28.

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Chardonnay – 2019. Lithe and fresh, with restrained fruit and subtle winemaking. Complex, fine and elegant, there is subtle depth to the fruit. This may well be the sleeper of the tasting. Should open and build for a few years in the bottle. 93pts – $35.

Sandalford – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2019. An excellent wine, where the cassis/blackcurrant fruit is the focus, well supported by subtle French oak that adds a savoury lift. Decent density and power, yet with a silky texture that supports early consumption. Ultimately, the graphite-like tannins make their presence felt of the very close, so five years in the cellar should work a treat. 94pts – $22.

Trait – Chardonnay – 2020. A combination of savoury fruit and textural winemaking components, with a touch of struck match and flinty minerals. Feels like a Chablis, given the crispness of the palate and the retrained fruit. However there is excellent depth and density. Best in 3-5 years. A label to watch! 93+pts – $89.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017. Polished, dense and textured, though the fruit is a touch muted at present. Very structured and reserved. Bordeaux-like, and from a cool year, this requires a bit of faith and a lot of patience to see its best. But the outcome should be excellent once the perfumed fruit has a chance to open up. 94+pts – $85.

Peccavi Estate 2021 Release Highlights

Barry Weinman: 17^th August 2021

Peccavi Estate was founded by Jeremy Muller, as the culmination of a global search for an ideal vineyard location.

Muller purchased an established 16-hectare vineyard sitting in the Yallingup sub-region of Margaret River and set about adding new clones of Merlot to further improve the varietal composition.

With winemaking led by Bruce Dukes from Naturaliste Vintners, this is definitely a winery to watch.

Reviewed

Peccavi – Chardonnay – 2018. The rich fruit here is most appealing, with layers of medium toast oak adding depth and texture. The oak sits a little proud of the fruit initially, but this settles down quickly in the glass as the peachy fruit builds. Dense, serious and very long, this tastes expensive! 94pts – $65.

Peccavi – Chardonnay – 2019. A very well-made wine where the supple fruit really builds in the glass. The balance is a highlight, with the oak well matched to the fruit and the excellent acidity adding drive to the palate. The length of flavours and texture are a highlight. A cooler region, higher acidity style that will benefit from at least 3 – 5 years. Or drink it now with grilled prawns or a smoky eggplant dish. 95pts – $65.

Peccavi – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Great combination of ripe, elegant fruit and textural winemaking. The tannins are very fine, though prodigious, the fruit somewhat hidden on a very drying finish. But the potential is undeniable. Quality fruit and winemaking on show. 94+pts – $75

Peccavi – Syrah (Shiraz) – 2020. Brilliant purple colour! The cherry and plum fruit is bright and super fresh, with noteworthy intensity. The fruit really shines on the palate, supported by gently chewy textural notes and supple oak management. With excellent length of flavours, this lithe, supple, mid weight wine is a great drink, but is also sure to evolve for ten years if desired. 94pts – $55.

Vasse Felix New Releases for 2021.

Barry Weinman: 15^th August 2021

Virginia Wilcock and the team at Vasse Felix could never be accused of resting on their laurels. Vintage after vintage, Vasse Felix has produced superb wines at all price points. Yet each year, they look to make incremental changes to try and elevate each wine just that little bit more.

Recent changes have included:

• Replanting/grafting portions of the vineyard to varieties and clones better suited to the location
• Moving away from Merlot in favour of Malbec as the main blending partner for Cabernet
• Purchasing established vineyards south of Margaret River
• Establishing a sparkling wine brand under the Idée Fixé label

But perhaps the biggest changes have occurred in winemaking techniques, particularly for Shiraz. In 2019, a portion saw carbonic maceration and whole bunch fermentation to capture the vibrancy of the cooler vintage wine.

And overall, the wines have never looked better!

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Filius – Chardonnay – 2020. Ripe peach fruit the defining feature on the nose, with gentle oak and lees notes adding depth. The palate is savoury and quite complex, with subtle barrel ferment and lees characters and fine acidity complementing the fresh fruit notes. Excellent mouthfeel and texture to close. 93pts – $28

Vasse Felix – Filius – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is a beautiful wine, with balance, poise and elegance that belies its entry-level status in the Cabernet range. Supple, near seamless and very long, the fine berry fruit builds, supported by subtle, savoury oak. The tannins add gravitas, without diminishing the fruit. Superb drinking now, or in 5-10 years. 94pts – $29

Vasse Felix – Shiraz – 2019. Fine, elegant and refined with superb cool-climate fruit on show. The fruit is very pretty, but the textural, savoury notes elevate this to another level. Seamless and supple, the feathery tannins build on the finish adding depth. Age-worthy and good value. 95pts – $37.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule – 2018. This is serious, structured, taut and closed. But the quality of the fruit and winemaking shines through with air. Silky and fine, the supple blueberry fruit is perfectly balanced by fine acidity and texturing oak. The addition of 8% Petit Verdot adding structure. At its best in 20 years, but magnificent drinking after a couple of hours in the decanter. What more could you ask for? 95-96pts – $47.

New Kid on the Block: Nikola Estate

I was saddened when Houghton closed down their Swan Valley operations and sold off the winery. So much of Western Australia’s winemaking history can be linked to the winery and the people who have worked there.

But commercial realities resulted in Houghton consolidating all WA winemaking to their facilities in Nannup.

This presented an opportunity for the Yukich family to step in and establish a new venture on the site. And so started Nikola Estate, named in honour of Nikola Yukich, who planted his first vineyard in the Valley in 1929, a few years after arriving in Australia from Croatia.

After the inaugural vintage (2019) was produced by sister winery Oakover, the 2020 vintage was produced on site by former Millbrook winemaker Damien Hutton.

With the financial backing of the Yukich family, Damien has a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to build a first-rate winemaking operation.

Early results look very promising!

Reviewed

Nikola Estate– Frankland River – Riesling – 2021. The bright lime-like fruit has a zesty tang with piercing acidity running the length of the palate. A very smart wine but needs a few months to settle down. 93+pts – $30.

Nikola Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2020. This is quite a complex wine. There is the grassy, herbaceous characters typical of the variety, followed by layers of winemaking inputs courtesy of subtle barrel ferment and lees contact. This is not for everyone, but it is an excellent example of the white Bordeaux style. 91pts – $21.

Nikola Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2020 . I like this a lot. Vibrant fruit with gentle floral aromatics. The palate is crisp and fresh, with textural components adding depth and mouthfeel. Long, gentle viscosity, but near seamless plate transition. Age-worthy to boot. Quality fruit. 92pts – $21.

Nikola Estate – Tempranillo – 2020. Fragrant, ripe and very pretty. The pure fruit continues on the palate, with the variety’s trademark gravelly tannins quickly building on the finish. Crianza in style, the oak adding savoury notes and texture rather than overt flavour. A great match for osso bucco but also worthy of a few years in the cellar. 93pts – $35.

Nikola Estate – Frankland River (white label) – Shiraz – 2020. What a lovely wine. Bright plum fruit with pepper and spice on the nose. The palate is fleshy and totally delicious. Soft, enveloping fruit, with gentle structure adding depth. A great drinking wine for a BBQ or pasta night. 93pts – $30

Spoilt for Choice: Shiraz and Friends

Barry Weinman: 5th August 2021

When it comes to Shiraz, Australia really is the lucky country! As a consumer, not only are we spoilt for choice when it comes to the different expressions of Shiraz, we are also blessed that there is extraordinary value to be had.

It is important to differentiate between value and affordability. If your budget is big enough, then wines like Hill of Grace and Grange represent excellent value when compared to the world stage (compared to Napa Valley Cabernet for example).

But for many of us, value and affordability both matter. A mid-week tipple needs to be affordable, whilst still delivering on quality. And here Shiraz can really shine, particularly from South Australia.

The 2019 Blackstone Paddock from Barossa is a great example. This Aldi exclusive is a steal at $18.

Whilst the Riverland is not as fashionable, Aldi’s 2019 Tudor Shiraz ($15) is a worthy successor to the 2018 that I reviewed recently. Brilliant quality for the price.

Whilst excellent cool-climate Shiraz tends to be more expensive, they do not have to break the bank. Seppelt’s 2018 Chalambar (from Victoria) is a cracker and can be picked up for as little as $20.

For an alternative to Shiraz, the 2019 Carmenere from Nucos is a delight to drink at $13 from Aldi. Carmenere is a lesser known Bordeaux variety that is now at home in Chile.

And dont forget to try the A.C. Byrne from Aldi. This sets the benchmark for own-brand wine bargains and must have the other supermarket chains scratching their heads in disbelief.

Reviewed

Blackstone Paddock – Barossa – Shiraz– 2019. The ripe fruit here is a knock-out. Supple, delicious and intense, with a savoury note and flinty minerality adding mouthfeel and depth. The quality oak adds layers of texture but does not diminish the joy of the fruit. Excellent drinking, but will benefit from cellaring. 95pts – $18 from Aldi.

Seppelt – Chalambar – Shiraz – 2018. Dense and savoury, with dark, plum-like fruit. Yet this is integrated and harmonious, with supple oak adding a silky sheen to the fruit. The mouthfeel is a treat, with near-seamless palate transition with feathery tannins fanning out across the finish. Medium term cellaring an option. 94pts – $30.

Tudor – Shiraz – 2019 . Dense and refined, yet bursting with vibrant red berry fruit over zesty white pepper with the gentle savoury oak adding depth and interest. Lithe, supple and lip-smackingly good. 92pts – $14 from Aldi.

A.C. Byrne & Co – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2019. Reflecting a cooler year, this is quite restrained, with the red currant fruit building in the glass. The quality of the fruit and winemaking is brilliant at this price. This would even benefit from a few years in the cellar. 91pts – $10.

Nucos – Vuelo – Carmenere– 2019. The fruit here is rich, ripe and dense. The palate is immensely satisfying, with a degree of silkiness to the fruit, decent weight and gravely tannins that add texture and depth. A great mid-week red from this underrated variety. 91pts- $13 from Aldi.

Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Shiraz– 2018. Lovely nose that is quite seductive. Ripe, supple, high-quality fruit has been paired with quality oak which adds both depth and savoury notes. The palate is plush, with supple, silky, berry fruit, fine tannins. Great drinking already. 93pts – #120.

V. E. Kraft – The Vineyard Architect – Shiraz/Mataro – 2017. Excellent depth and structure, yet the fruit is polished and refined. Savoury chocolate and coffee notes from the oak add interest, whilst the tannin grip adds depth and texture. Serious enough to be age-worthy, but approachable enough to be a great drink now. 93pts – $35

Taylors – Special Release – Shiraz – 2019. I like this. Bright, vibrant fruit combined with unobtrusive winemaking. There is plum, gentle spice and hints of pepper, with the fruit lingering admirably on the palate. The supple coffee-like oak adds depth and texture. Will be great with a bowl of pasta! 91pts – $15 from Aldi.

Bird in Hand – M.A.C. – Shiraz – 2013. Altogether more serious and interesting. Ripe fruit and bright American oak. This reminds me of high-quality Penfolds. Layers of complexity build on the finish, with tar, coffee, chocolate, and earthy notes. Immensely satisfying. 94pts – $375.

Pot of Gold: Australian Fortified Wines

Barry Weinman: 1st August 2021

Australian fortified wines are amongst the great bargains in the wine world. The price to quality ratio is right off the scale.

Wines come in a variety of styles, often dictated by the grapes that are used in the blend. The Australian Grape and Wine (https://www.agw.org.au/) Code of Conduct lists a number of different styles that are allowed including:

• Apera: Can range from dry and savoury to intense and very sweet
• Tawny: A combination of older and newer materials, often made from Shiraz
• Vintage: A fortified wine from a single year (Often Shiraz)
• Muscat: A fortified wine made from the Muscat grape
• Tokay/Topaque: A fortified wine made from the Muscadelle grape

Producers are able to differentiate the quality of their wines according to an industry-wide classification system. The first step up is Classic, followed by Grand and finally Rare.

With each step up the scale, there is an increase in intensity, complexity and age. Yes, the “Rare” wines can be very expensive, and are an incredible experience for those lucky enough to try them.

However, the real value lies with the Classic and Grand styles. That you can buy a truly excellent bottle of Classic Topaque or Muscat for around $30 is unbelievable value.

Reviewed

Faber – Liqueur Muscat – NV. Intense fruit, with gentle rancio characters on the nose. The palate is rich, viscous, complex, intense and textured, with caramel, coffee and chocolate notes.  Rich and rewarding and very very long, this is delicious. Not subtle, and all the better for it. 95-96pts – $60    

Stanton & Killeen – Classic Topaque – NV. Raisins, spice and gentle rancio leads to drying tea leaf notes and acidity. Viscous, mouth-coating and seamless, the addition of younger material giving freshness and balance. Evolves and lingers for what feels like minutes. 12-year average age. Warning: This is so easy to drink. 95+pts – $38 (500mls).

Morris – Classic Muscat – NV. This has a real wow factor. Rich toffee, coffee and caramel leads to a finish that is balanced, long, succulent and near seamless. Brilliantly made, using a blend of older and young material to maintain freshness. A delight to drink and outrageous value. 95pts – $25 (500mls).

De Bortoli – Show Liquor Muscat – NV. More raisin fruit with caramel and fig. The burnt toffee notes are attractive on the finish. Again, excellent balance and length. Acidity well judged, with more aged material. Seamless, almost endless palate is brilliant and intense. Spends an average of 8 years in barrel. 94+pts – $30 (500mls).

Morris – Classic – Topaque – NV. Bang! The intensity here is a wonderful assault on the nose. Caramelised sugar, treacle, raisins and a touch of tea leaf, with lifted acidity as a counterbalance. The palate is intense, yet with great balance. Not cloying, with moderate viscosity, the drying finish is a highlight. 93+pts – $25 (500mls)

Lamont‘s – Navera – NV. Olive rimmed colour. This is quite delicious. Yes, it is rich and viscous, but it is also alive and fresh. Complexity shows as toffee, tobacco, tea leaf and an aldehyde lift. Very satisfying and moreish. A blend of Muscats & Pedro Ximenez. 93pts – $35 (375mls).

Buller – Fine Old – Topaque – NV. Light amber colour. The nose here is fresh and vibrant, with gentle honey and nougat notes. The palate is clean and fresh, with caramel and nut notes and excellent viscosity balanced by excellent acidity. Just lacks the ultimate depth of the best. Super value. 92pts – $25 (750mls).

Buller – Fine Old Muscat – NV. Burnt toffee colour. More raisined, viscous and luscious, with excellent concentration and bright acidity to balance the sweetness. The length is commendable, with a touch of spirit on the close adding. Unctuous and irresistible. Outrageous bargain 92+pts – $25 (750mls).

A Year to Remember
Barry Weinman: 27th June 2021

Margaret River has been blessed with a seemingly never-ending run of very good vintages, starting with the 2007 vintage and continuing to this day. I am not aware of any other region globally that has ever been able to achieve this level of consistency!

But this success is not the whole story as there has been considerable vintage-to-vintage variation. However, modern viticultural practices and sensitive winemaking techniques have enabled the region as a whole to prosper.

2017 is an excellent example. After the warmer and drier than average 2016 vintage, 2017 was significantly cooler and wetter. This mandated significant work in the vineyard to ensure healthy ripe grapes were delivered to the winery.

And for many, the results were outstanding. More restrained and elegant, yet with perfectly ripe tannins. Different in style? Yes. But the quality of many of the top wines were outstanding and worthy of extended cellaring.

2018, by contrast was a winemaker’s dream. The warm (but not overly hot) weather continued right through to harvest, with no major rain events to worry about. Many are claiming that this is one of the greatest Margaret River vintages for Cabernet on record.

2019 was another cooler year where Chardonnay really shone.

And whilst most producers have already sold out of these vintages, Xanadu has just launched their premium wines and they are worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Chardonnay – 2019. This is impactful, powerful and intense, with nectarine and tropical fruit to the fore. High-quality oak/barrel ferment notes add the highlights, whilst lemon zest and fine acidity carry the very long finish. This is a statement wine that demands attention. 95pts – $80

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay– 2019. Fine and elegant with great poise. Yet there is tremendous depth and innate power sitting behind the peach-like fruit characters. The high-quality oak has been pared back, adding depth and texture without overly flavouring the wine. Zest builds on the very long finish. Outstanding. 96pts – $110

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is something of a gentle giant. There is powerful fruit, firm, structured oak and tannins, yet there is a warm heart nestling underneath all of the bravado. Opulent blackcurrant and eucalypt supported by graphite-like tannins and superb oak handling. Now – 20 years. 95pts – $80