April 2017 New Release – Mixed

Barry Weinman: 17^th April 2017

I am really taken by the trend of adding some worked characters to the SSB/SBS blends from Western Australia. A small percentage of barrel fermented fruit is often all it takes to add real depth and texture to these wines. Add in a touch of lees aging and the result can be a complex, serious wine.

In a break from the norm, the Cherubino SB comes from Pemberton, and is a cracking wine, whilst the Xanadu DJL delivers great value (in a more restrained package).

Xanadu also hits the target with the DJL Cabernet.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (18pts – $35). Attractive, with grassy/tropical fruit characters. The palate has decent complexity, with the mouth-feel and texture a highlight. The slightly grippy finish adds to the feel. The winemaking is a highlight, with the barrel work adding to the overall package. A serious wine. (From Pemberton).

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – DJL – 2016 (18pts – $24). Quite a complex and textural wine. The quality fruit on the palate is highlighted by zesty lemon acidity. Excellent balance, with just enough winemaker inputs to make it really interesting. Great value and easy drinking.

Pedestal – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.9pts – $25). Opens with citrus fruit and a touch of lanolin from the Semillon. Powerful, complex, and worked, this is an intense wine that has received plenty of attention in the winery. The high quality fruit and oak is complimented by barrel work and lees stirring etc, and shows minerals, flint and struck match. Needs a couple of years, but this is a high quality, slightly idiosyncratic wine.

Rosa Brook – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.6pts). Restrained nose, with the Semillon fruit a feature. The rounded palate has seen a little work, adding textural components rather than overt flavour. I really like the mouth-feel, which is quite creamy, transitioning to fresh acidity at the end of the palate.

Deep Woods – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Hillside – 2016 (17.3pts). Refreshing, lively, hints of tropical fruit and spice, the palate has decent length and lemony acid. Not overly complex, but an excellent drink.

Pinot Noir

Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.8pts – $28). I like this wine. Fresh berry fruit, with a touch of cherry and aniseed. The palate is balanced and harmonious, with the warm fruit matched to supple oak. The acid and tannins are fine, allowing the fruit to linger on the close. Would also be good with food.

Meadowbank – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5). Pretty strawberry fruit that carries onto the palate, with gentle structure and well-judged acidity. Not overly serious, but deliciously easy to drink.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2014 (17.5pts – $24). Decent fruit weight and intensity in a package that is fairly linear and quite drying. The fine tannins and oak complement the fruits suggesting this would take food very well. Value for money.

April 2017 – New Release Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 8^th April 2017

When it comes to making a first impression, the new wines from wine industry stalwart Robert Bowen really stand out. The expensive packaging is very striking (powerful/heavy bottle and strong label), and the Block H Chardonnay is a cracking wine.

The Juniper Estate was the unanimous pick of the panel: a lovely wine. The Singlefile was only a whisker behind and continues the run of brilliant wines under this label.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – Estate – 2015 (18.5pts – $40). Very pale colour. Refined and elegant, with supple fruit complemented by quality oak. The oak is tight and fine and will settle back into the fruit with a couple of years in bottle. The length and persistence is a feature. Really builds depth in the glass. A lovely, youthful, shy wine that was the wine of the tasting.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2015 (18 – 18.5+pts – $50). Middle of the road style, where the lemony fruit is accessible, though somewhat restrained. Fine oak is apparent, but not overpowering, complimented by refreshing acidity. Almost chewy, this is a textured and viscous. A powerful, textural wine that needs a few years to really shine. Whole bunch pressed, 8.5 months in French oak (40% new).

Robert Bowen – Chardonnay – Block H – 2016 (18pts). The nose is somewhat closed initially, but opens to show both stone fruit and pineapple/tropical characters. The palate is rich and ripe, and you can almost taste the sunshine in the fruit. Despite the ripeness, the balance here is excellent, with the acid providing a counterpoint. Very long, the oak has been soaked up by the fruit, adding texture. Fantastic fruit quality in a richer style – worth trying.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.9pts – $28). Pristine, high quality fruit that is refined and elegant (pineapple, melon and grapefruit). The palate is creamy and textured, the oak and barrel-work adding a layer of complexity, rather than overt flavours. Just lacks the ultimate depth of its big brother, but represents great value drinking.

Hollick – Chardonnay – Bond Road – 2014 (17pts – $25). Complex nose that has spice and mineral characters, as well as a touch of curry leaf. The palate is ripe and fleshy, with the toasted oak providing a nice counterpoint. Easy drinking style that will please many.

March 2017 – New Release Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 1^st April 2017

A few weeks back, I wrote about the Chardonnays from Bird in Hand, which were most impressive. In this tasting, their Shiraz was the star. Whilst it would be easy to recommend their uber-premium M.A.C. Shiraz at $350/bottle, their standard Shiraz is a standout at $35.

The panel tried a number of wines from Penley Estate. Again, it was the less expensive wines in the range that stood out on the quality/value scale.

Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Adelaide Hills – 2015 (18.5pts – $35). Wow, this is an impressive wine. There is an explosion of concentrated, almost inky fruit, with menthol and aniseed notes over a core of ripe, textured fruit. This is powerful and complex, the flavours coming in layers on the palate. The vanillin oak and tannins are well managed, whilst the acidity has been deftly managed. Great stuff!

Hollick – Shiraz – 2014 (18pts – $25). The bright, quality fruit is a highlight (ripe plum and spice notes) as is the supple mouth-feel (fine texture, lingering tannins, cedary oak and excellent length). This wine received unanimous praise from the panel for its balance and supple mouth-feel. Approachable now, but surely worthy of a few years in the cellar.

Salomon – Shiraz – Fleurieu – 2014 (18pts) Elegant, pretty and refined wine that has excellent balance. The lighter berry fruit characters sit well with the polished tannins. Deceptive, as this is long and quite serious, yet it slips down with ease.

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Hyland – 2014 (17.9pts – $30). Menthol and red currant/berries to the fore on the nose, carrying through to the palate. Again, medium bodied and not overly complex, but will develop well over the next 5 – 8 years. Fine tannins add to the mouth-feel, whilst the oak is barely perceptible. ($23 from Nicks).

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Atlas – 2014 (17.8pts – $20). Lovely nose of ripe berries and blood plum over white pepper and spice. The palate is almost plush initially, with the tannins kicking in on the close. There is a family resemblance to the Hyland, with red currant developing in the glass. This is an exciting wine for the price.

Juniper Estate – Shiraz – Crossing – 2015 (17.8pts – $23). There is a degree of plushness to the plum fruit that is very attractive, aided by supple spice notes. The spice continues on the palate, with the plum flavours carrying right to the close. Fine tannins and oak add to the appeal, pairing well with the mid-weight fruit. Will partner roast meats well. A modern, well-made wine that will be excellent value drinking over the next 5 years.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2015 (17.7pts) A riper, richer wine than many from Margaret River, with cedary oak, firm tannins and chewy texture. Clean and bright, this remains balanced and focussed, though this would benefit from a few years to settle down.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Flint Rock – 2014 (17.7pts – $28). Quality fruit here, though quite closed and inky. The menthol and plum/berry notes build with air. The palate is long and textured, with minimal oak apparent. The fresh acidity ensures that this will be a great match with food now, or on its own over the next 10 years.

Wynns – Shiraz – Coonawarra – 2015 (17.7pts – $25). Another fine wine from this illustrious label. Restrained and well made, the red berry and menthol characters building in the glass. On the palate the fresh acidity is the main feature now, but there are ripe fruit characters underneath. Good line and length, this would be good with a rich Bolognese, but is sure to age well for 10+ years. Ridiculous value at under $14 from Dan Murphy.

Ad Hoc – Shiraz – Middle of Everywhere – 2015 (17.6pts – $21). Pretty ripe berries on the nose, with redcurrant and supple spice building on the palate. The fine tannins and restrained oak contribute to a silky mouth-feel, which is very moreish. An attractive wine that is so easy to drink now.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 5 – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Ripe fruit in the plum spectrum. The palate is silky and refined. Only medium bodied, but excellent drinking. The souring acidity ensuring that this will pair with food well.

Deep Woods – Shiraz/Malbec/Grenache – Et Al – 2014 (17pts – $20). Intense fruit in the blueberry spectrum. Textured and slightly chewy, the tannins tighten on the finish. An honest red wine that provides uncomplicated drinking.

Champagne and more: March new release

Barry Weinman: 17^th March 2017

We had the opportunity to taste through a small selection of Argentinian wines and was very impressed with the quality/price equation. These are well-made wines that represent decent value.

Whilst at it, we looked at a couple of vintage Champagnes. I will recommend the Moet & Chandon over the Veuve, even thought the latter is the better wine. The reason for this is that the Moet is better drinking now, and is being discounted ($85 from Vintage Cellars).

The Cape Mentelle Cabernet is nothing short of exceptional. The 2014 seems more accessible than any of the previous few vintages, perhaps reflecting a subtle change in style from the new chief winemaker.

Reviewed

Moet & Chandon – Grand Vintage -2008 (18.3+pts – $100). Fresh stone fruits, with lifted lemon zest notes. Quite rich in the mouth, with complex lees/yeast notes just starting to poke through. A touch of astringent lemon pith/rind on the finish keeps the palate fresh and alive. Will develop more complexity for a few years, but delicious now.

Veuve Clicquot – 2008 (18.6+pts -$110). More delicate and refined, the balance and poise here are outstanding. The presence in the mouth is excellent, with layers of flavour and texture building on a finish that is very long and fine. Minerals and lime acidity linger on the finish. A superb wine that will age brilliantly, but would be great with oysters now.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.7pts – $110). Very pretty and elegant on the nose with blueberry and blackcurrant fruit. The palate is lithe and supple, with great balance and finesse. The fruit here is almost delicate, and the winemaking perfectly matched to the fruit weight. An outstanding wine that is more approachable now than most recent vintages.

las perdices – Malbec – 2015 (17.5pts – $21). Pretty, ripe plum and berry fruit, with licorice and spice notes. The palate is nicely textured, with the accessible fruit sitting nicely within the structural components. Made for short-term drinking, this is a great alternative to Shiraz and would work a treat with BBQ meats.

San Gimignano – Malbec – Roble – 2012 (17.8pts – $35). Resinous oak notes are apparent on the nose, but are not overwhelming. The palate is rich, with ripe blueberry fruit the main feature. The oak adds plushness to the mid palate, whilst the fine tannins linger. Stylistically, this reminds me of McLaren Vale. A smart wine that could be drunk now – 10 years. Spent 12 months in new French and American oak.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Cuvee Brigitte – 2013 (18pts – $37). More structured and tannic, with cool fruit characters held tightly in check. Excellent fruit quality and mouth-feel, with flavours lingering to the finish. Give it time and it will be a very smart wine, but is too young now.

las perdices – Cabernet Franc – Ala Colorada – 2012 (18.3pts – $40). Pure fruit that is fragrant and pretty. There is a stylistic resemblance to their Malbec, but the fruit characters are quite different. This is a smart wine, with supple oak and soft, lingering tannins. Really well made, this spends 12 months in new French oak.

Current and New Release – Summer 2017

Barry Weinman: 28 February 2017

Every now and then, a wine surprises you for being far better than expected. This was the case with the Thomas Block Chardonnay from Paxton. McLaren vale is famous for its rich, ripe Shiraz, but here is a taut, structural Chardonnay that is really very good.

As expected the new release Kevin John Chardonnay from Cullen was impressive, but it was the Nest Egg Chardonnay from Bird in Hand that topped the tasting. I tried this again with a group of wine friends over dinner, and this was preferred to some big names from Australia and Burgundy. Expensive, but worth the money.

Finally, whilst it is not new release, the Vasse Felix Cabernet is a star. A brilliant wine and good value compared to some of the big names from Margaret River.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Prima – 2016 (17.5pts – $26).   There are honeyed notes along with a touch of ripe pear and gentle toast leading to a textural, rich palate. Moderate residual sugar (25 gm/l) is balanced by decent acidity. Lacks the ultimate drive on the palate of the best German Kabinetts, but this wine gets extra points for being a delicious drink.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Riesling – Mosel – Domane MC – Feinherb – 2015 (18.2pts – N/A). Bright, focused and razor sharp, this is an excellent Riesling. There is a nervous energy on the palate, with the lime and mineral characters performing on a stage of taut acidity. Excellent length to close. Not yet available in Australia.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Pinot Blanc – Mosel – Domane MC – 2015 (18pts). Delicious wine from this underrated grape. Bright fruit (citrus, stone fruit and even a touch of pineapple) is balanced by fresh acidity. The fruit lingers on a very long palate. Morish, the residual sugar is perfectly matched to fruit and acidity.

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Nest Egg – 2015 (18.5pts -$79). Powerful dense wine with ripe fruit married to toasted oak and lees/barrel ferment characters. The palate is textural, rich and balanced. Made in a more traditional, easily accessible style, showcasing the Adelaide Hills fruit. A brilliant drink right now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2015 (18.5pts). This is quite accessible, with the fruit on the nose the main focus. The palate is full, round and powerful with the pineapple (Mendoza clone) and marmalade fruit framed by complex winemaking inputs including struck match minerality and tight French oak. Seamless, this is a lovely wine now – 5 years.

Arivina Estate – Chardonnay – Wildwood Ridge Reserve – 2015 (18.3pts). Opens with   gentle peach and melon aromas that build in the glass. Creamy, textured, fine and supple, this is an elegant, almost delicate wine that will build presence over a number of years.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2015 (18pts+ – $34). (Organic). Complex, dense fruit on the nose. The palate is taut and firm, the fruit sitting behind the structural components. The balance is noteworthy. The oak and winemaking components tightly bind the fruit, the latter sitting dormant and needing some time in bottle to express itself fully. A truly impressive wine from McLaren Vale.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium (Gold Capsule) – 2013. (18.5pts+). A complex nose, with dense, ripe, precise fruit. Menthol, blueberry, liquorice and eucalypt notes are balanced by texturing oak. Very long, fine and elegant, this will age well for 15 years +.

New World Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 20^th February 2017

I had a call from a friend recently saying that he was dropping around some wines for me to try. These turned out to be sixteen highly regarded new world Pinots. This was a brilliant way to end a tiring day.

It was a very hot day in Perth and the wines were a little warm, so I popped them into an ice bucket for 20 minutes, just to bring the temperature down a little. Tasting red wine at 15 degrees is so much better than trying them at 25, especially as they tend to warm up in the glass once poured.

The Ata Rangi was the highlight, a stunning wine that is sure to age very well. (The 2002 is drinking a treat now). The Block 5 from Felton Road equally impressive, as was the Paradigm Hill. All amazing wines.

At a completely different price point, the Picardy was the sweet spot in the tasting for price/quality, whilst the Eddystone Point is an affordable entry point into the charms of Pinot Noir.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18.8). Everything is in balance here. The complex, deep smelling fruit, polished tannins, fine-balanced acidity and textural oak all sit beautifully on the near-seamless palate. A master-stroke of restraint, yet with latent power that will build with time in the glass. A magical wine, with fine, dense fruit. Powerful, yet restrained, this is a tight/sinewy wine. An iron fist in a velvet glove would be one way to describe this wine Why don’t more people make Pinot in Martinborough? (Served from magnum).

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2015 (18.7pts $122). Closed on the nose initially. The palate is tight, yet with air, layers of flavour and texture build and evolve. A monumental effort as, despite the power of the fruit, this remains elegant, balanced and finely structured. The flavours linger for minutes, with the fruit and structure playing off each other right to the close, making for a superb drink. (Served from Double Magnum).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Worri Yallock – 2015 (18.5pts). There is more depth to the fruit here, with the winemaking inputs playing a minor supporting role on both the nose and palate. The dense, high quality fruit is a highlight, carrying the entire length of the palate. An impressive wine that needs several years for the fruit to open, but the potential is there (cork seal).

Paradigm Hill – Pinot Noir – L’ami sage – 2014 (18.5pts). Gentle cherry fruit and spice, thought the fruit does not really feature here and is not missed. This is a textural treat, with the fruit bound by the winemaking inputs and oak, making this near irresistible. Wonderful structure and depth, the fine tannins are a highlight. Will open up with a few years in bottle. The Diam closure is a safe bet.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow (Mt Barker) – 2016 (18.3+pts – RRP $60). Opens with a pretty, almost delicate nose, that despite its youth, is quite full/complex. The palate is an amalgam of strawberries, cherries, plum, tobacco and spice. Really quite delicious, this dances in the mouth. The acid, tannins and M   oak hold back the fruit on the finish somewhat, but this has everything in place to shine with short-term cellaring (and achieve potentially higher points).

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Aroha – Te Muna – 2013 (18-18.5pts – $120). Very attractive nose, where the complex fruit is complemented by gentle earthy/herbal notes. The palate is more restrained and linear, the tannins, oak and fine acidity conspiring to keep the fruit in check. Delicate for central Otago, with impressive structure, this will do even better with a couple of years in bottle (cork closure).

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts). I like the forward, generous fruit on the nose. Continues onto the palate, where the fruit is complemented by fine tannins and balanced acidity. This is a serious wine that is really quite good. The mouth-feel builds with air, and a touch of grip adds depth (cork closure).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Hoddles Creek – 2015 (18pts). Very attractive nose, with the fragrant berries set against a backdrop of complex herbal characters. On the palate, the cool fruit is slightly suppressed, with the winemaking influences (whole bunch fermentation) carrying the length of the palate. Needs a couple of years to flesh out, but will be a great accompaniment to roast meats. I love the Adreaseal closure.

Eddystone Point – Pinot Noir – 2015 (17.5pts). Pretty, floral fruit, supple structure and fine acidity make this an excellent drink. The bright cherry and plum-like fruit has moderate complexity, with the oak adding texture and depth. A couple of years would not hurt either.

Australian Sparkling Wine

Barry Weinman: 7^th February 2017

The attrition rate for this tasting was very high, with only four wines making it to this review.

The premium Heemskerk is particularly worthy of attention. A very elegant wine that is full of refinement.

I was also very impressed with the Seppelt. This is a decent Shiraz, with the bubbles adding life. An Australian classic that is sure to cellar well for a decade.

Reviewed

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – 2011 (18pts – $60). A most elegant wine, with subtle complexity. The palate is precise and linear, with excellent mouth-feel and racy acidity. Refined and fine, the fruit builds on the finish. This would benefit from a couple of years’ bottle age. Fine Australian bubbles. (Great packaging!).

Seppelt – Shiraz – Original Sparkling – 2013 (17.8pts). Smells like a decent Shiraz, tastes like a decent Shiraz. Excellent fruit, with liquorice and chocolate notes. The dosage is restrained, allowing the fruit to be the main focus. Excellent length of flavours on the palate. Great with a steak over summer, or cellar for more complexity.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV. (17.5pts). Quite complex and powerful on the nose, with toasty autolysis characters. The palate has decent weight and fruit richness, whilst the depth and length of flavours impress. This is a good effort and worth trying.

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Able’s Tempest – NV (17.5pts – $32). Pale. I like the floral/apple blossom fruit that is balanced by fresh acidity. Subtle, long and fine, this is a smart wine.

New Release – Mixed.

Barry Weinman: 2^nd February 2017

This tasting showcased excellent value wines at various price points. From the ridiculously cheap Angove, the smartly priced Polguern Estate, to the (relatively) good value imports from Salomon, these are wines that you can afford to drink whenever the mood takes you.

Reviewed

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wieden & Berg – Kremestal Dac – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). Complex, with apricot, almond aromas and tight minerality. Hints of spice lead to a textural palate that is very long, with superb balance. Builds and evolves in the mouth. An excellent wine that deserves attention and possibly bottle age.

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wachtberg – Kremestal Dac – 1er Cru – 2015. (18+pts – $45). A touch more floral, with pretty stone fruit notes. The palate is a little shy initially, with zesty acidity and a strong vein of minerality. Opens with air and gets quite textured on the close. A serious wine that needs time to fully express itself.

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Floral nose with passionfruit and tropical notes. The palate is vibrant, with a touch of minerals and a slight phenolic oiliness. Generous, this is a brilliant value off-dry Riesling.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2015 (17.6pts – $10). Pretty fruit on the nose. The palate is precise and focused, with a core of dark, blueberry fruit matched to supple oak. The tannins and acid are very well integrated, making for a polished, sophisticated wine of some charm. May even get better with a couple of years in bottle.

Polguern Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pharaoh’s Tribute – 2014   (17.8pts – $20). Pretty red currant fruit, with tobacco, blackcurrant and spice. Repeats on the palate, though this is tight and closed right now. A seriously made wine that will be a cracker in 10 years. Great value from Roleystone

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2015 (17.3pts -$17). A delicious, fruit forward style with licorice, coffee/mocha and plummy fruit. Good length and mouth-feel to close. Excellent value BBQ red.