New Release – July 2017

Barry Weinman: 13^th July 2017

The panel looked at a variety of styles this week as well as wines at varying price-points. The team at Angove continue to impress, this time with their Organic range. Angove have arguably the largest holdings of organic vineyards in Australia.

The Rosé was a stand out and sets a benchmark for this variety in Australia. However, the Shiraz/Cabernet was my pick – a bargain that could even take a few years in the cellar.

Another bargain was the Wolf Blass Yellow Label Shiraz. A delicious wine that can be picked up for as little as $10.

Moving up the price scale, the wines from Rochford and Singlefile impressed greatly.

Finally, I would like to draw your attention to the wines from St Mary’s. Here are idiosyncratic wines where you can taste the region in each of the wines. They are also delicious drinking!

Reviewed

Angove – Sauvignon Blanc – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Fresh and lively, with floral notes, musk stick and a touch of cut grass. The palate is a treat and, while not overly complex, has plenty of lemony fruit. Great quaffing (demonstrating that the Riverland can make decent SB).

Rochford – Chardonnay – Dans Les Bois – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18.5pts – $49). A serious wine that has had the gamut of winemaking techniques. Barrel ferment and10 months’ lees aging in oak (30% new) has added great complexity and depth. The nose is powerful, with minerality, curry leaf and a touch of struck match. The palate is very long and textured. The high quality fruit and oak need a year or two to integrate, but this is a very impressive wine.

Angove – Rosé – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Very pretty colour complements the attractive, vibrant floral fruit that reminds me of red berries and jubes. The palate is round and soft, the berry characters complemented by balancing acidity. Will be great on its own, or with antipasto. 100% Shiraz.

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – Limestone Coast – 2014 (17.8+pts – $35). The sense of place is a key feature of this wine. The mint, and chocolate characters are so typical of the region, yet there are still floral berry characteristics typical of Pinot. The palate is supple and textured, with souring cherry fruit. Ageworthy, this is a unique expression of Pinot that captures the terroir from which it was produced (cork closure).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Philip Adrian – 2014 (18.5+pts – $80). A blend of restraint and power. Inky purple colour. Complex, restrained and taut. The palate is supple and very long. A wine for the long haul that only hints at what is to come with time in bottle.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2017 (117.8pts – $16). Attractive blue and red berries (Shiraz) over a core of structural elements (Cabernet). Excellent length and persistence, with the textural components coming into their own on the finish. At this price it is also worth putting a few in the cellar, to see how they develop over the next 5 years. A delight! (from the Riverland).

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Yellow Label – 2015. (17.8pts – $16). This is a wine that will please lovers of a big juicy red. Ripe plum fruit, balanced on a textured, chewy palate. The lushness of this wine is a standout. My points might be a little high, but this is ridiculous value at $10 from Dan Murphy.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – Limestone Coast – 2015 (18.2pts – $30). Another wine that speaks of its region, with mint/menthol and eucalypt, over ripe, plump fruit. Great balance on the palate, with excellent texture and mouth-feel. A delicious, complete wine that will also age well in the medium term.

Pinot Noir – June 2017: New Release

Barry Weinman: 18^th June 2017

Pinot Noir is not the easiest wine to make well. It tends to do best in cooler, boutique wine producing areas and requires plenty of attention in the winery. Also, the attention required in the vineyard precludes large scale plantings. So compared to Shiraz, these are not the cheapest wines to produce.

Affordable Pinot Noir is an elusive beast. The highlight for me of a recent line up of Pinots was the new Shottesbrooke Pinot from the Adelaide Hills. Here is a good drinking, varietally correct wine that is selling for $20. Definitely worth a look.

Though it costs more, the Picardy Pinot is in fine form. Precise and balanced, it is great drinking now, but will also improve in the bottle.

Reviewed.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts -$40). Solid core of pretty fruit. Berry, plum and cherry characters with tar, liquorice and spice. Gentle oak adds depth with the fruit tannins and acid drive on the finish. An excellent wine that will build complexity in the bottle over the next 5 years.

 Shottesbrooke – Pinot Noir – Adelaide Hills – 2016 (17.6pts – $20). Lovely colour and aromas of ripe berry/cherry fruit. Silky, supple, decent texture and relatively fine, with cedary characters adding depth. Not overly concentrated, but a great drink. The generous flavours linger. A decent $20 pinot is a rare commodity, but this one hits the spot.

Bass Phillip Pinot Noir – 2015 Vintage Review

Barry Weinman: 31^st May 2017

When it comes to Australian Pinot Noir, the reputation of Bass Phillip is unequalled. Their reputation is backed up by the prices that their top wines sell for. The range tops out with the Reserve at closer to $600. The entry level wines, however, are most reasonably priced, starting with the Old Cellar ($35), followed by the Crown Prince ($60).

Several things struck me during the tasting:

The Crown Prince is the best value Pinot. There is a clear family resemblance across the range, especially between the Crown Prince, Estate and Reserve, and the Crown Prince gives access to the Bass Phillip style at an affordable price.

A second point is that the Gamay is seriously good drinking and, at $50, is a relative bargain. Despite having the more illustrious Pinot range open, this is the wine that I chose to have a glass of with dinner.

Finally, the wines are different to other new world Pinots. For a start, they are unfiltered. The wines for this tasting arrived shortly before we started, so there was a slight cloudiness apparent. The clarity was restored once the wines sat for a few hours. The challenge is that, when served in a masked line-up, the wines stand out. So objective assessment becomes a little more difficult.

The wines are also made embracing biodynamic principles, which may result in more vintage-to-vintage variation. I n 2015, the wines are notable for their relatively low alcohol content, ranging from 12.5 to 13.2%.

If you are familiar with Bass Philip, then you will require little encouragement to seek out the range. If you are not familiar with the wines, then the Crown Prince is a great entrée. If you are looking for a delicious drink over the coming cooler months, then the Gamay is my pick.

N.B. Points not allocated as the wines were easily identified in the tasting.

Reviewed

Bass Phillip – Gamay – 2015 ($50). The colour is a touch more earthy than the Pinots. The fruit here is serious, with genuine depth and complexity. The palate is alive and delicious. The fine acidity balances the ripe berry fruit perfectly, leaving the palate fresh and ready for a second sip. The delicacy of the fruit is a real highlight (this grape deserves more popularity in Australia).

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Old Cellar – 2015. (RRP $35). Trademark cloudy appearance. There is an attractive fleshiness that reminds me of Central Otago. Relatively straightforward and approachable, yet there is enough depth to the fruit on the finish to make an impression. Drink over the next 2 – 3 years. 13% alc.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Crown Prince – 2015 ($59). A delicate wine that has high quality, plum-like fruit on show. The palate is elegant, supple and fine, with the acid adding drive to the finish. Superb mouth-feel a highlight. Will be great with food now, but sure to improve over the next 5 years.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Estate – 2015 ($80). Just a hint of cloudiness. Extremely complex and concentrated, yet the vibrant fruit has density without excessive weight. Cherry, jubes, clove and nutmeg complement the strawberry characters. On the finish, the fine tannins and acid serve to keep the fruit in check and keep the palate fresh and alive. Supple mouth-feel and excellent line/length. Finishes with fine tannins and a whisper of oak. It took two days to hit its best, so cellaring potential is assured. 12.5% alc

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Issan Vineyard – 2015 ($85). Brick red colour. This is a different style compared to the Estate. Initially subdued on the nose. The red berry fruit is pretty and fragrant, building depth with air. The palate is balanced and supple. Whilst not overtly powerful, there is depth to the fruit that is quite captivating. Takes on a masculine structure, reminding me of Gevrey Chambertain. 12.8% alc. Vineyard established in 1994.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2015 ($220). Opaque, brick red colour. Nose initially muted, but the fragrant, pretty fruit came to the fore with air. The balance is exemplary, the fine acidity providing a refreshing counterpoint to the dense fruit. There is depth behind the floral fruit, with fine oak providing structure. With air the fruit builds in waves, and fans out across the palate. After two days on the tasting bench, this was outstanding so a sure bet for 5 – 10 years in the cellar.

New Release Imported Red Wines: April 2017

Over the last few years, Lamont’s have been importing a range of wines from Europe. This has ranged from high-end Burgundy to cheap and cheery reds and whites from Spain.

In this tasting, the panel looked at a range of cheaper wines that are currently available. Whilst all of the wines showed well, the wines reviewed represent excellent value. Mention my name and you might even get a discount!

Reviewed.

Domaine Nicolas Boiron – Cotes Du Rhone – 2012 (17.5+pts – $23). More intensity to the colour and more depth and richness to the fruit that takes on an almost cherry note. The palate is somewhat firmer, though the balance is excellent. The fruit quality elevates this above the average, whilst the supple winemaking presents the fruit in an approachable package. Will be a treat with food.

Domaine Raymond Usseglio – Cotes Du Rhone – Les Claux – 2015 (17.5pts – $29). Pristine fruit that is ripe and very well handled in the winery. Leather, spice, menthol, red currant, lovely acidity and fine tannins. Again, this is fresh, youthful and excellent drinking.

Acentor – Grenache – Garnacha – 2015 (17.2pts – $16). Fleshy plummy fruit on the nose. The mid-weight palate has fine tannins complement the juicy fruit, making for an excellent early drinking style. Balanced, with spicy notes to the fruit. Plump, round and easy to drink.

Alceno – Shiraz – Premium 50 Barricas – 2012. (17pts – $16). More depth and power to the fruit. I really like this wine. Ripe, almost chocolaty fruit is combined with menthol, Asian spice and fine tannins. The oak adds depth to the palate, while the savoury tannins keep the palate vibrant. Will do well with a few years in the cellar.

Cullen Chardonnay Retrospective

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2017

The Kevin John Chardonnay is the wine that has really caught my attention in recent years, with a succession of excellent wines. What impact biodynamics has had I can’t say, but I now rank this amongst the region’s finest.

Adding interest to the story is the release of a very limited quantity of wines that have been harvested at different times of the biodynamic cycle. I do not claim to understand the differences, but the Fruit Barrel was superb, with the Flower Day and Flower Barrel just a whisker behind.

At $250 per bottle, they make the standard release look like a bargain by comparison.

A special thanks to Lamont’s in Cottesloe for hosting this tasting.

Reviewed

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2015. Youthful, fresh and floral, with delightful stone fruit aromatics. Slightly viscous, hints of tropical fruit and grapefruit acidity to close. Seamless oak integration and a touch of toast. The palate is complete!

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2014. This wine has gone into its shell a little. Everything in place, but just needs a year or two to open up. Gentle toast to the oak.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2013. Remains restrained and taut, with more minerality on show. The balance and mouth-feel are a treat. Seamless, integrated, very fine and a highlight of the tasting.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2012. Richer and more approachable, with a touch of marmalade developing in the nose. The palate has peach/nectarine fruit, creamy mouth-feel and scintillating acidity. Very long, and great drinking now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2011. Gentle aromatics. Pineapple and citrus fruit, with lemony acidity carrying the finish. Very long, with minerality building on the close. Developed characters just starting to show with gentle toast, adding richness and depth. Superb drinking now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2010. This bottle did not show well on the night.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2009. The age is just starting to show in the colour, but there is still lovely freshness to both the nose and palate. A sublime wine where the stone fruit and citrus characters are perfectly integrated. A lovely drink now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2008. More development, with the fruit here a little faded. A very satisfying drink that has gentle viscosity, balance and good acid levels.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2007. The minerality on the nose is very attractive, with some of the curry-leaf characters that I often find in great Chardonnays. The palate is rich, textured and very long. The pineapple and tropical characters carry the length of the palate and are complemented by a lovely line of acidity. A great wine that is approaching its peak, and one of the top wines of the tasting.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Flower Day – 2013. Complex, powerful fruit. The palate is a powerhouse of flavours and textures. This really needs a few years to settle down. The acidity is so fine that it is barely noticeable, yet it provides great definition to the wine.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest – 2014. Almost austere, the fruit is subdued and it is the honey and toast characters that are most noticeable. Not a rewarding drink now, but will be interesting to watch over the coming years.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Flower Barrel – 2014. Wow, what a pretty wine. There is beautifully fragrant fruit on the nose that carries through with floral characters on the palate. Almost jasmine blossom. Refined and seamless palate, the oak just making a presence on a close that is very long. Almost Alsace-like, this is a different style.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Fruit Barrel – 2014. Classic Cullen’s Chardonnay, with all the characters intensified. This is a superb wine, where the brilliant fruit quality is on full show. Pretty, perfumed stone fruit, creamy texture. Very long, balanced and refined. A complete wine and my pick of the tasting.

April 2017 New Release – Mixed

Barry Weinman: 17^th April 2017

I am really taken by the trend of adding some worked characters to the SSB/SBS blends from Western Australia. A small percentage of barrel fermented fruit is often all it takes to add real depth and texture to these wines. Add in a touch of lees aging and the result can be a complex, serious wine.

In a break from the norm, the Cherubino SB comes from Pemberton, and is a cracking wine, whilst the Xanadu DJL delivers great value (in a more restrained package).

Xanadu also hits the target with the DJL Cabernet.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (18pts – $35). Attractive, with grassy/tropical fruit characters. The palate has decent complexity, with the mouth-feel and texture a highlight. The slightly grippy finish adds to the feel. The winemaking is a highlight, with the barrel work adding to the overall package. A serious wine. (From Pemberton).

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – DJL – 2016 (18pts – $24). Quite a complex and textural wine. The quality fruit on the palate is highlighted by zesty lemon acidity. Excellent balance, with just enough winemaker inputs to make it really interesting. Great value and easy drinking.

Pedestal – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.9pts – $25). Opens with citrus fruit and a touch of lanolin from the Semillon. Powerful, complex, and worked, this is an intense wine that has received plenty of attention in the winery. The high quality fruit and oak is complimented by barrel work and lees stirring etc, and shows minerals, flint and struck match. Needs a couple of years, but this is a high quality, slightly idiosyncratic wine.

Rosa Brook – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.6pts). Restrained nose, with the Semillon fruit a feature. The rounded palate has seen a little work, adding textural components rather than overt flavour. I really like the mouth-feel, which is quite creamy, transitioning to fresh acidity at the end of the palate.

Deep Woods – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Hillside – 2016 (17.3pts). Refreshing, lively, hints of tropical fruit and spice, the palate has decent length and lemony acid. Not overly complex, but an excellent drink.

Pinot Noir

Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.8pts – $28). I like this wine. Fresh berry fruit, with a touch of cherry and aniseed. The palate is balanced and harmonious, with the warm fruit matched to supple oak. The acid and tannins are fine, allowing the fruit to linger on the close. Would also be good with food.

Meadowbank – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5). Pretty strawberry fruit that carries onto the palate, with gentle structure and well-judged acidity. Not overly serious, but deliciously easy to drink.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2014 (17.5pts – $24). Decent fruit weight and intensity in a package that is fairly linear and quite drying. The fine tannins and oak complement the fruits suggesting this would take food very well. Value for money.

April 2017 – New Release Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 8^th April 2017

When it comes to making a first impression, the new wines from wine industry stalwart Robert Bowen really stand out. The expensive packaging is very striking (powerful/heavy bottle and strong label), and the Block H Chardonnay is a cracking wine.

The Juniper Estate was the unanimous pick of the panel: a lovely wine. The Singlefile was only a whisker behind and continues the run of brilliant wines under this label.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – Estate – 2015 (18.5pts – $40). Very pale colour. Refined and elegant, with supple fruit complemented by quality oak. The oak is tight and fine and will settle back into the fruit with a couple of years in bottle. The length and persistence is a feature. Really builds depth in the glass. A lovely, youthful, shy wine that was the wine of the tasting.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2015 (18 – 18.5+pts – $50). Middle of the road style, where the lemony fruit is accessible, though somewhat restrained. Fine oak is apparent, but not overpowering, complimented by refreshing acidity. Almost chewy, this is a textured and viscous. A powerful, textural wine that needs a few years to really shine. Whole bunch pressed, 8.5 months in French oak (40% new).

Robert Bowen – Chardonnay – Block H – 2016 (18pts). The nose is somewhat closed initially, but opens to show both stone fruit and pineapple/tropical characters. The palate is rich and ripe, and you can almost taste the sunshine in the fruit. Despite the ripeness, the balance here is excellent, with the acid providing a counterpoint. Very long, the oak has been soaked up by the fruit, adding texture. Fantastic fruit quality in a richer style – worth trying.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.9pts – $28). Pristine, high quality fruit that is refined and elegant (pineapple, melon and grapefruit). The palate is creamy and textured, the oak and barrel-work adding a layer of complexity, rather than overt flavours. Just lacks the ultimate depth of its big brother, but represents great value drinking.

Hollick – Chardonnay – Bond Road – 2014 (17pts – $25). Complex nose that has spice and mineral characters, as well as a touch of curry leaf. The palate is ripe and fleshy, with the toasted oak providing a nice counterpoint. Easy drinking style that will please many.