Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

New Release Whites

21 January 2010

The change to screw cap closures on wines has been something that I have publicly embraced as a great compromise for wine lovers. Being free of all of the imperfections of cork is what it is all about. Whilst the screw cap is inert and reliable, it is not fool-proof. One important difference that I have noted is that wines stay fresher for longer. This impacts on both wines that you buy to age and wines that are best drunk young.

With wines designed for early consumption, like most of the wines in this tasting, the increased freshness has had another consequence that we need to bear in mind. By being slower to develop, they appear to take a little longer in bottle to show there best.

Years ago, I would not dream of keeping a sauvignon blanc for more than a year, but with many of the wines in this tasting, they were actually a little closed and tight. Several looked even better the next day with a bit of airing. I am not suggesting that you start ageing these styles, but it may be worth giving them a bit of air if you find that they do not meet your expectations. Some of the lightly oaked styles can easily take 2-3 years in the cellar.

So to the wines. Once again, the 2009 Clairault sauvignon blanc showed well. This is a lovely drink. Forester also seem to be kicking some goals with their sauvignon. I continue to be impressed with the wines from Deviation Road from the Adelaide hills. I must try and visit them at some stage this year.

This was meant to be a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc tasting, but unfortunately a few pinot gris/grigio wine got mixed up.

Tasted

Deviation Road – Pinot Gris – 2009 (17.5+). Clean and fresh smelling. There is sherbet, musk, pineapple and a touch of cinnamon. Evolves on the palate and has excellent mouth feel and texture. Persistent and balanced. Good acidity to close. (I had a glass with salmon the next night and it was excellent.)

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! More overt and obvious than some, there is pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passionfruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment but the fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months. There might be a touch of residual sugar, but it is all the better for it.

Forester – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Some zesty fruit on this. Ripe, concentrated passionfruit and tropical fruit with pineapple acid. Some winemaker inputs. Textured palate with good mouth feel. Lemony acid to close. Quite a big wine.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – 2009 (17). Pungent sauvignon characters with lantana and a touch of vanilla. Crème brulle on the creamy palate. Very good fruit and wine making. Fine close.

Hamlin Bay – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Lifted, grassy fruit with some passionfruit and musk. The palate is long, fresh and surprisingly viscous. Passionfruit to close. The finish is closed but well balanced.

Wine By Brad – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.8). Focused and precise nose. Quite fragrant, complex and balanced,with fresh acidity to keep the finish alive. Good summer drinking

Millbrook – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – Barking Owl – 2009 (16.6). Creamy nose, with some interesting fruit. Sweet fruit but without great excitement. Good current drinking.

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (16.5+). A different style to the WA and NZ wines. Starts off zesty and tight. The palate is powerful, long, focused but closed. Will do better with 6 months in the bottle.

Forester – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). This is closed and tight. This is quite a serious wine with good viscosity/mouth-feel and some worked wine making inputs. Will be better in a few months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). Sweet and ripe fruit on the nose, this is lacking some definition at present. A crowd pleasing style that builds intensity. Will be better in a few months.

Preveli – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5). More of the grassy characters here. Some musk and sherbet too. The palate is racy, but the acid is a little firm now.

Sidewood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.4). A complex and funky wine with caramel on the close. Unusual.

Arlewood – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2006 (16). Barrel ferment and lees characters. Some grassy characters. This smells expensive. Obvious oak characters dominate the palate. More like an oaked semillon. Will the fruit break free?

Banrock Station – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (16). Riper nose with some candy. Simple but easy drinking. Caramel to close.

Clairault – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16). Good drinking.

Two Tracks – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16). Musk and sherbet. The palate is complex and worked. Whilst rich and generous, the finish is less precise than some.

Champagne

Wine and Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed 28th March 2013.

I need to start this article with a confession: I love Champagne. The real stuff from France, rather than just any wine with bubbles. So I was very pleased to arrange a tasting of predominantly non-vintage Champagne for the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia.

I used this tasting as an opportunity to explore how the plethora of lesser known brands that are making their way to Australia compare to the Grand Marques. Over the last year or two, the price of champagne has steadily decreased. Part of this is due to the overhang of stock in markets that have diminished in the GFC. This includes the likes of Hong Kong and Singapore.

This excess stock is being bought in bulk and shipped to Australia by some of the big retailers (parallel importing) and being sold at a discount to that which the official importer is sellingit for. There remains a question over the quality of the wines sourced from Asia and beyond, as there is no guarantee on storage conditions etc. There is also no way of telling how old the stock is.

There is no doubt in my mind that a champagne that spends two years in a un-refrigerated warehouse in Hong Kong is going to taste different to one that arrived direct from France in a refrigerated container. This issue of provenance only really applies to the Grand Marques in general.

Given that all the wines for this tasting were purchased in the week before the tasting, I noted that a couple of the wines were more advanced than I would have expected. Not that they were in any way bad, just more developed than I would have expected straight from the producer. As I tend to age my NV champagnes for a year or two anyway, perhaps this is not such a bad thing, but the consumer has a right to consistency.

There were several standout wines. From a value perspective, the Jean Richecourt and Pol Gessener were absolute bargains. Excellent quality at around $30 on special.

The Lanson Gold Label highlights the quality of the 2002 vintage and is tremendous value. (I already have some in my cellar). The wine of the night however, was the Grand Cellier D’Or by Vilmart & Cie. A superb wine at any price!

Below is a cross-section of wines that I consider to be most noteworthy, focussing on the less known brands.

Reviewed

Vilmart & Cie – Grand Cellier D’Or – Champagne – 2007 (18.5+). My tasting notes for this wine were brief but expressive. Fresh, vibrant, taut, long, linear, balanced, fine and refreshing. Superb length and great presence. This is a spectacular wine that is great drinking now, but will also drink superbly for 5 years or more. Try Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

Bollinger – Champagne – NV (18 – 18.5). A richer style, but a fresh and vibrant wine that has plenty of life and joy. The nose has lemony, fresh, fine and elegant fruit. The palate is powerful, showing autolysis and dough like characters, though there is a degree of finesse and elegance. The finish is very long and remains fine right to the close. A favourite of James Bond and a favourite of mine too!

Lanson – Gold Label – Champagne – 2002 (18 – 18.5). Opens with delicate, floral fruit on the nose. Again, the acidity is a feature. Great line and length with lovely mouth-feel, balance and texture. There are stone fruit characters and subtle spice. Complete wine of great charm. It is amazing that a wine of this quality from such a good year is still available on the market for under $55. I already have some in my cellar. (Available from Dan Murphy).

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils – Paradox – Champagne – 2004 (18). Richer and more developed than the Vilmart, but still with life and balance. The palate has good penetration and attack and great mouth-feel. Everything a good champagne should be. Drink now. (Available from Vintage Cellars at $55).

Jean Richecourt – Champagne – NV (18). Wow, the group really liked this wine! A very delicate nose that shows hints of toast and brioche. The palate is fresh and taut, with tight minerality and great penetration. The dosage has been perfectly matched to the youthful fruit and acid. I like the persistence and the way the wine cuts through the palate to show hints of stonefruit and brioche. Stunning value at under $35 from Vintage Cellars!

Canard-Duchene – Cuvee Leonie – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). I like this for its balance and life. There are plenty of yeasty/leesy notes, with some bottle age evident. A lively, moderately complex wine that is very easy to drink. ($60 from La Vigna in Mt Lawley).

Drappier – Signature – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – NV (17.5 – 18). Balance, delicacy, finesse, this has everything you need in a champagne. Excellent acidity, length and penetration on the palate, with the powerful chardonnay fruit making this a complete wine. Excellent value from the team at Vintage Cellars.

Moet et Chandon – Champagne – NV (17.5-18). A more youthful wine with less obvious lees characters. Opens with lovely lemony fruit on both the nose and the palate. I like the acidity on this which combines with moderate dosage to make the finish quite drying. The palate has excellent length and intensity and, while there are not a lot of autolysis characters, the fresh style makes an excellent aperitif. It is great to see the quality from this house back up where it belongs.

Pol Gessener – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). Fresh, taut and racy, but the acid is a little bright just now. An excellent wine that would benefit from 6 months in the bottle to bring out its best. Great value at under $35 from Dan Murphy.

Pol Roger – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). Developed colour and a degree of richness on the nose. Creamy, taut, lemony, but with an underlying richness that comes from time in bottle. A gentle wine with excellent length and a touch of minerals.

Duperrey – Champagne – NV (17-17.5). Lighter, fresher, but still with excellent autolysis and aged characters. The balance here is the key. The palate has lemon, stone fruit, excellent acidity and good penetration. A very good wine, though the dosage is a touch more obvious.

Sparkling Wine – New Release

Reviewed: 16 February 2013

My perceptions were really challenged during this tasting by the wines from Yellowglen.

Firstly, the quality and style of the new releases from Yellowglen are completely different to the cheap wines in the range and are nothing short of stunning!
Secondly, whilst there has been a wholesale move to Tasmania as a source of fruit for sparkling wines, this demonstrates just how good the Adelaide Hills wines can be.
Finally, as a die-hard fan of Champagne, here is an Australian sparkling wine that I really want to drink.

The 2002 XV is a wine that has changed my perceptions of Australian sparking wine.

At the other end of the spectrum, there are a couple of cheap and cheery wines that represent excellent value for uncomplicated drinking.

Reviewed

Yellowglen – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2002 (18+). Very fine mousse and developed straw colour. There is a creamy, powerful nose with plenty of autolysis characters from the extended lees contact. This wine is fine and elegant, yet complex, developed and round. With Brioche and cookie/bread dough characters,the palate is soft, round and gentle, with delicate acidity to balance the complex fruit. Could be mistaken for Champagne, this is a fine wine with a complex powerful finish. Powerful enough to take food, this is a truly amazing wine. Having spent 9 years on lees and with 8g/l of dosage, this pinot dominant blend is at the very top of Australian sparkling wine. With a RRP of $50, I intend to put some in my cellar for drinking over the next 6 months.

Yellowglen – Pinto Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2004 (17.5). Remarkably fresh compared to the 2002 and a brilliant aperitif style. There is good complexity on the nose with restrained fruit characters over buttery/nutty lees characters. The palate is linear and taut, with a touch of yeast and toast to add interest. More fruit driven than the 2002, with a lovely racy edge.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Grandis – Brut Reserve – 2009 (16.6). A straightforward wine with apple like fruit and gentle creamy finish. Fills the mouth nicely and delivers plenty of joy. An easy drinking fun wine that will make many friends. (The name is a little close to that of the French wine perhaps).

Lindeman’s – Bin 25 – Brut Cuvee – NV (16.4). Vibrant mousse! This is in a different style and delivers plenty of charm. Fresh apply fruit on a vibrant palate that is full of life. A fun wine that will provide great drinking on a warm afternoon with friends. Should be about the same price as a fancy bottle of water… Bargain!!!

De Bortoli – Emeri – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV (16.6). This is an interesting wine. Opens with complex bready aromas. The palate has brioche and creamy satisfying mousse. Not particularly complex, but long, refined and very satisfying. The creamy finish is a highlight.

Wolf Blass – Gold Label – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay 2008 (16.5). Simple, straightforward wine that is quite long, round and satisfying. Easy to drink and well made, this should also be very affordable.v

Champagne

Reviewed: 12th June 2012

I had the pleasure of attending a tasting put on by one of the candidates for the Vin du Champagne awards. My host for the evening wanted to explore dosage and its impact on house styles. Dosage refers to the liquor that is added to a wine when it is disgorged (yeast lees removed). This liquid typically contains a proportion of sugar which is added to help the balance of the final wine.

The label can often give you an indication of the amount of dosage added to a wine. For example:

Zero Dosage refers to a wine that had no sugar added. This style is quite fashionable at the moment.
Ultra Brut must have less than 5gm/l of sugar.
Brut may range between 5 & 10 gm/l, though up until recently, this was up to 12gms/l.
Demi-Sec can be up to 50gm/l.

It must be said that most non-vintage champagnes are Brut in style. There is no mention of dosage with Vintage wines, though those present felt that most would be in the Brut range.

There was a variety of interesting points that came out of the tasting. The most important being that a house’s standard NV was preferable to either the no dosage or the demi-sec. The small amount of sugar added balance and drinkability to the wines. Champagnes are naturally high in acid, so the barest hint of sugar can make an austere wine a delight to drink. NB. Brut wines are in no way sweet to taste, they are less tart.

Another important point for me was the startling improvement in the quality of Moet and Chandon NV. This is a wine that is worthy of its Grand Marque heritage. Indeed, several of the tasters present preferred this to the NV Verve Cliquot which is one of the best NVs on the market!

Finally, the comparison of the two 1996 Dom Perignons was a highlight. The recently disgorged version had so much youth and life. The original release was developing beautifully, whereas the Oenotheque was as fresh and lively as the current release (2002). Given the price of the Oenotheque, my suggestion would be to go out and buy the 2002 instead. This is a spectacular wine that is just at the start of its life. At less than half the price of the Oenotheque, it is a bargain. (Kemeny’s has this available for just $180 online).

A big thanks has to go to my hosts for arranging such an illuminating tasting.

Reviewed

Pol Roger – Pure – NV (17.5). The nose has floral notes and minerals, with one taster noting hazelnuts. The palate is very long, persistent and powerful, though austere and quite linear. The very essence of Pol Roger, but some of the joy has been removed from the wine. Whilst impressive now, a few years under cork will do this the world of good.

Ayala – Zero Dosage – NV (17.8). Richer, bigger and more obvious than the Pol Roger, with bread dough, brioche and a touch of struck match. Whilst obviously bone dry, the palate is richer, rounder and more generous, with more depth. This may be due in part to the longer lees aging. An interesting wine.

Ayala – Brut – Majeur – NV (17.9). Quite toasty and nutty, this has real personality when it opens up. The palate is balanced, refined, long and harmonious. There are no rough edges here, though this is not quite as complex as the Zero Dosage. The dosage was noticeable and this contributed to making the wine more enjoyable to drink. (9gm/l residual sugar).

Pol Roger – Brut – Reserve – NV (17.6). The white foil Pol has been our house champagne for many years. Whilst this was not as exciting or interesting as the Pure, it was familiar, comfortable and eminently drinkable. I am not sure if this was the best bottle, but a good drink all the same (9gm/l sugar).

Moet & Chandon – Brut Imperial – NV (17.5). Intense and focused nose that is actually quite vinous. Minerals and citrus notes add interest. The palate is fine and refined, with a finish that is very long and quite drying. Textured and nutty to close, this is the best Moet NV I can remember in a long time and is a welcome return to form. Indeed, several experienced tasters preferred this to the Verve! (9gm/l sugar).

Veuve Cliquot – Brut – NV (18+). A superb wine. Complex yeast and autolysis characters on a nose that is balanced, subtle and fine. The palate is dense, precise, very long, textured and fine, with a flinty finish showing a core of minerality. Textbook NV and 10gm/l of sugar.

Veuve Cliquot – Demi Sec – NV. (NR). Golden bronze colour with gentle spice, butterscotch and red apples. This is a nice wine that has enough acidity to balance the significant amount of sugar sweetness. The only question I have is when you would actually drink it and with what? (Both this and the Nectar had the same residual sugar level, though this tasted significantly sweeter).

Moet & Chandon – Nectar – NV (NR). I did not have a reference point by which to score these wines, so no points awarded. That said, this was an enjoyable wine with racy acidity that made the wine a joy to quaff.

Moet & Chandon – Dom Perignon – 1996 (18.8). More involved and approachable than the Oenotheque, this is a gorgeous wine at the peak of its power. Whilst still retaining a degree of youthful vitality, this is starting to drink beautifully now. The intensity and incredible length of the palate defined the quality here. The powerful fruit is starting to become more expressive on the palate. A more rounded structure here, that combines lovely balance with texture courtesy of the bottle aging process. This will live for many years, but it is a joy today!

Moet & Chandon – Dom Perignon – Oenotheque – 1996 (19). A spectacularly youthful wine of supreme quality. This actually received a lower dosage (6gm/l) than the standard release highlighting the quality of the fruit. The nose showed lemon, spice, brioche and toast due, I am sure, to the extended aging on lees. The power of the palate was the highlight here. Precise, long, evolving and taut, the acidity still suppressed the fruit somewhat. This is a wine that needs to be savoured to be appreciated. Disgorged in 2006, this had ten years on lees. I can only imagine how many decades this will live for. Given the price is over $500 per bottle, I think I will drink the current release (2002, 18.9pts $200) instead.

Riesling and Sparkling Wine

New Release

Reviewed: 18 January 2012

I was most surprised when the covers came of the sparkling wines from Jete during our panel tasting. Well made wines with enough interest to make for excellent drinking.

The highlights of the tasting came from the riesling brackets. The wines from Howard Park were superb, whilst the wines from Frankland Estate were the best that I can remember from this producer.

In both cases, it was fascinating to see how the different vineyards expressed themselves in the glass. If you are interested in holding an interesting tasting, then get the team from Frankland Estate to send you one of each of their current releases.

Reviewed – Sparkling

Jete – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Sparkling – NV (17). Clean and fresh, with some Granny Smith apple and some autolysis notes. Bready finish with plenty of acid to keep the balance. Sympathetic dosage adds to the enjoyment with good length to boot. A touch of bitterness on the finish works well.

Yarrabank – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Sparkling – 2007 (16.9). Darker colour tending to straw and a very fine bead suggest more bottle age here. Complex, round and balanced, this is a very good effort showing brioche, bread dough and a hint of honeyed development. Good mouth-feel and length. The finish is a touch dominated by the toast, but otherwise, this is a fine wine. Caramel notes to close further hint at some bottle age.

Jete – Rose – Sparkling – NV (16.8). Very pale colour here. This is round and soft with hints of red fruits and apple. Not particularly complex, but an enjoyable wine with good length.

Reviewed – Riesling

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (18.5). Perfumed talc on the nose, with musk, pear and a hint of sherbet. The palate is superb, with fresh citrus and beautiful balance. The length is excellent and the finish near seamless. A lovely wine that will age gracefully.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2011 (18.5). Very pale colour, this is very undeveloped. Seamless, restrained, taut and balanced, this is a sublime wine of real class. Superb mouth-feel with great intensity and length. This will live for a very long time, developing character and richness as it goes.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Poison Hill – 2011 (18). More chalky minerals with citrus and frangipani, this is very understated. The quality is obvious, but the wine is very shy. Again, the mouth-feel is excellent and the finish silky. Good length to close. Will only get better.

Howard Park – Riesling – Great Southern – 2011 (18). More forward, with obvious lemony fruit. The palate is zesty and very long. The finish is complex, the mouth-feel excellent and the flavours really linger. Very enjoyable now or in ten years. I would drink these while waiting for the Porongorup to hit its peak.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Netley Road Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Lovely nose that is both intense, yet reserved. The palate is reserved, and the acidity is the main feature now. There is citrus fruit in the background, but this needs time to come out. Very long indeed, a few years will do this the world of good.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Rocky Gully – 2011 (17.5). Lovely lime fruit here. Slate, wet stone and hints of talc and floral notes add interest. On the palate there is fresh lime juice up front, but the finish is a highlight. Long, intense and balanced, this is near seamless. Great value.

Champagne – Non Vintage

1 December 2011

I love champagne! So this was one of the most anticipated tastings for the year.

One of the challenges of reviewing NV champagne is that there is no way of knowing how old the bottle is. Like every other wine, champagne evolves as it ages, (often for the better in the short term). To get around this, all wines in the tasting were purchased within a few weeks of the tasting.

We did have to purchase most of the wines ourselves, but thanks needs to go to Paul at Vintage Cellars for helping out with some of the wine.

The star of the tasting was the Drappier. This was uniformly enjoyed by the entire panel. It is currently being sold for $40 and is a Vintage Cellars exclusive. It is a little more expensive than our perennial favourite – Pol Gessner, but it is probably a touch better (and a Blanc de Blanc).

There were some very good wines from both big and small houses, so there is plenty on offer this Christmas.

Reviewed

Pol Roger – NV (18.3). Refined and very stylish. There is a touch of spice that I can’t place but there are also hints of red fruits. Great length with excellent complexity, this builds in the mouth with a corresponding increase in flavour. A fine champagne.

Gosset – Grand Reserve – NV (18.2). Now this is interesting. Very appealing nose that combines chardonnay derived minerality with finesse and life. Very lively in the mouth, with a fine mousse. Develops richness and texture as it warms up. Very long and perhaps the most complete wine to date. Mainstream, and all the better for it.

Louis Roederer – NV (18+). Floral, and forward fruit. Very vigorous mousse. Long and complex, this is a complete wine though it needs a few years to hit its peak.

Drappier – Signature – Blanc de Blanc – NV – (18). Lovely nose that displays autolysis, bread dough and minerality. A lovely palate that is fresh, vibrant and full of life with hints of grapefruit. Not overly complex, but this will develop with time in the bottle. A refreshing aperitif style. Delivers on the promise of a “mouth-ful of joy” and is a bargain at $40 from Vintage Cellars.

Serge Mathieu – Tradition – Blanc de Noir – NV – (18). Restrained and elegant, this is quintessential champagne. Fantastic palate that is full of life and energy, yet there is a degree of restraint that makes the palate almost seamless. Excellent length and mouth-feel. A very fine wine of real class.

Serge Mathieu – Cuvee Prestige – NV (18). Lovely nose. Fresh, with floral notes and hints of brioche and fresh bread. The palate is refined and long showing minerality and a degree of complexity that really develops in the mouth. A very stylish, if somewhat mainstream wine.

Tribaut Schloesser – Brut Origine – NV (18). Fine mousse, Lovely colour and great nose. Very refined, very long and totally delicious. It is hard to pin down any one flavour as the wine evolves continuously in the mouth. I like it a lot, though it is a dryer style.

Paul Barra – Brut Reserve – NV (17.9). More autolysis and lees notes to this wine. More mainstream, but very enjoyable. The dosage is perhaps a touch higher, though this plays well against the fresh acidity. Very good length and nice creaminess, this is an excellent stand-alone wine. From Grand Cru vineyards.

Arras – EJ Carr – Late Disgorged – 1999 (17.8). Richer and more developed. A touch darker in the glass. Showing obvious aged notes. The length is the key here. Remarkably fine mousse and a very fine wine. It would be easy to dismiss this wine as it is so refined, but it really does build in the mouth. One taster described this as Chablis with bubbles. Not cheap.

Pierre Gimonet – Paradoxe – 2004 (17.8). Much more of the autolysis, lees and yeasty notes. Another very enjoyable if somewhat richer wine. Good length and intensity, without the refinement of the very best here. Fine, classy, elegant and long, minerality the key.

Billecart Salmon – Brut Reserve – NV (17.5). More obvious mousse and more forward on the nose. A very attractive and easy to drink wine that is both reasonably complex and long. The flavours develop in the mouth. Not quite the life of the best, but very easy to drink.

Tribaut Schloesser – Cuvee Rene – NV (17.5). Balanced, elegant and appealing. An appealing wine in a more commercial style. Unmistakably champagne, with apple and pear overtones. Not overly long, but a good drink.

Vilmart – Grand Reserve – NV (17.2). Rounder and more developed. Pleasant wine with apple acidity that carries the palate well. Enjoyable. Not as long as the best, but this is a textured wine aided by a degree of oak aged complexity. Do not serve it too cold.

Grant Burge – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV – (16.7). Rich and quite broad in the palate. An enjoyable wine with lovely texture and good length. There are red fruits with hints of apple and autolytic characters.

Sparkling Wine – New Release

Reviewed – 4 May 2011

Every now and then, a wine bargain presents itself that seems too good to be true. I question whether the price is right or if there is something wrong with the actual wine. One of these offers was the reason for this impromptu tasting. Woolworths Liquor has Pol Gessner non vintage Champagne on sale from today at $25 per bottle (two bottles for $50 to be precise).

Pol Gessner is a brand that I have enjoyed in the past and has been, from time to time, our everyday sparkling wine at home. It is one of brands of the Marne et Champagne group who also produce Lanson and numerous other brands. My understanding is that this is one of their better brands.

It has been available for a number of years exclusively through the various Woolworths chains (Dan Murphy, BWS etc) and I have seen it discounted to as low as $33 bottle in the past.

It has annoyed me somewhat that whilst the Australian dollar is at record highs, there has been little change in the price of imported wines. Here, at least, it seems that a company is passing on the benefits of the high dollar to consumers.

As I said, this offer seemed to good to be true, so I purchased a bottle to check on the quality. When the panel unmasked the wines, we were amazed that a wine of this quality is available for only $25. Make no mistakes, this is genuine Champagne. Whilst it is not quite up to the standards of Pol Roger, Roederer etc, it is streets ahead of the local competition at this price point.

In general, I am trying to buy more local products to reduce my carbon footprint, but with Champagne like this, I will make an exception. See you at the checkout…

Reviewed

Pol Gessner – Brut – Reserve – N.V. (17.5). More of the complexity that I am looking for in a sparkling wine, which is the result of ageing the wine on lees for a longer duration prior to bottling. Yeast, bread and even a touch of brioche are apparent on the nose. The palate is more complex, with a greater concentration of flavour and good texture. This is brilliant value and a really good drink.

Mount Avoca – Sparkling Shiraz – Jack.Barry – N.V. (17). I do not see many sparkling shirazes in our panel tastings, so this was a welcome addition. The key to this wine is that you can tell that the fruit is good quality. This actually smells like a good shiraz. There is an obvious sweetness to the fruit, but there are leathery tones with pepper and spice. The finish is gently sweet and the tannin profile works well. I tried to drink this with a steak, but found it worked best by itself at the end of the meal.

Deviation Road – Brut – Methode Champenoise – 2009 (16.9). More fruit aromas here to go with some gentle lees characters. Quite broad and mouth-filling, this is a smart wine with some character. Not overly complex, but a good drink.

Mount Avoca – Blanc de Blanc – Lisa.Marie – 2008 (16.7). Quite a complex nose, with yeasty notes reminiscent of fresh bread (dough). Good mouth-feel and attack in the mouth, but the flavour profile is quite linear. Good finish.

De Bortoli – Rose – Rococo – N.V. (16.5). Palest pink hue. More up front fruit and some fresh grape aromas that are quite floral really (think strawberry). Some development and richness apparent on the palate, but the flavours are quite short. Good length courtesy of the acids.

Grant Burge – Brut – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – N.V. (16.5). Quite a subdued nose. The palate is very pleasant and easy to drink. Excellent drinking really.

Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

3 December 2010

In the lead up to Christmas, we thought it would be good to look at a few sauvignon blancs. On a warm afternoon, these wines make for excellent drinking. The surprise for me was the quality of the Adelaide Hills wines. They possessed a drinkability that was lacking in some.

For sheer power, the Paretai by Matua Valley is a stand-out. I would encourage you to try a bottle and let me know what you think. For me though, the Geoff Weaver and the Shaw and Smith are the picks for drinking on a warm day.

Reviewed

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc – Paretai – 2010 (18). Quite seductive nose. This is really forward and powerful with all the tropical fruit characters typical of the style, combined with quality winemaking inputs. There is viscosity and length to the palate, and a silky mouth-feel completes an altogether impressive wine. Incredibly long and seamless finish. A wine to sip, not drink.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Fresh and clean, with tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is pure passionfruit, with lime juice and a touch of pineapple to close. Impressively long and zesty finish.

Mount Avoca – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2009 – (17.5+). Lemony, viscous, long and taught. An impressive wine with character. This has had well handled winemaker’s inputs. Not in the mainstream, but very impressive with food.

Shaw and Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.5). Lanolin and lemon on the nose. Fresh and zesty palate with lime acidity on the finish. This gets marks for being a really good drink. Bring on summer!

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.4). Some tropical fruit on the nose with passionfruit and a touch of lantana. The palate is long, fresh and slightly viscous. Good mouth-feel and texture. An excellent example of Margaret River sauvignon blanc.

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.3). Unusual nose. Grassy and a touch of fresh herbs. Quite powerful and viscous fruit on the palate. Long and dense, this is an interesting wine.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Very grassy on the nose. The grassy notes continue on the palate with herbaceous fruit carried by lemony acid. Nicely textured mouth-feel. From Margaret River.

Yarrabank – Vintage – 2006 (16.8). Quite a complex nose, with autolysis notes on a fresh nose. The palate is firm but very long. The first impression is that the finish will be a touch hard; however the weight of fruit on the palate carries the wine to a very long conclusion. This is not subtle, but should develop well over the next 5 years.

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (16.5). Subtle grass and herbaceous fruit characters on the nose. The palate is fresh and uncomplicated. Good drinking.

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc (sparkling) – NV (16.3). Smells like sauvignon blanc, tastes like sauvignon blanc, must be sauvignon blanc. Light and refreshing with enough fruit weight and complexity to carry the finish. Why? Why not!

Plantaganet – Sauvignon Blanc – Omrah – 2009 (16). Lifted grassy nose that works. Lemony fruit on the palate. Powerful, long, textured and zesty.

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Champagne de Vigneron

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond!)

7 November 2010

Though the dichotomy between growers and makers has blurred somewhat over the years, with more vigneron producers on the one hand, and extended vineyard holdings by makers on the other, the peculiarity of the separation of growers and producers in Champagne continues. Though quality can vary among the large houses, due to their buying power, there is more consistency of quality.

Among growers, quality levels can vary much more. Note that where a vigneron or grower is located influences greatly the varietal type/s used, and therefore the style of wines produced.

The Grandes Marques of Champagne are responsible for over two thirds of the production of Champagne, and around 90% of Champagne exports. This is despite growers in Champagne owning 90% of the vineyard land!

The Champagnes reported on below were tasted at a large Champagne tasting, highlighting growers’ Champagne in particular. All in all there were 27 producers represented by 124 different wines! The tasting was hosted by Vinoteca Al Chianti, a wine shop on the outskirts of Florence, on Chianti’s doorstep. I am choosing to highlight those producers that particularly caught my eye – or should I say, my palate.

Reviewd

Gatinois

A small producer located in the Montagne de Reims, most of the vines in this area are Pinot Noir, and all Gatinois vineyards are Grand Cru. Bollinger is also in the area, and indeed Gatinois sell some grapes to them.

Gatinois – Ay – Grand Cru Reserve Brut (17.5). (85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay) The essence of red fruit and apples. Crisp and fresh lively creamy mousse with some biscuity notes. 17.5 pts

Tarlant

A family run operation since, they claim, 1687, located in the Marne Valley.

Tarlant – Brut Zero – NV (17). Zero dosage in this blend with equal thirds of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Crisp, clean, bone dry, uncomplicated. Would be a great aperitif wine. 17 pts

Tarlant – Brut Prestige – 1996 (18.5). (65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir) Amazing wine – great body and length with almond, brioche and honeyed characters with lively citrus fruit still very much in evidence. Fresh acidity, possibly contributed to by minimal, if any malolactic fermentation. 18.5 pts

Henriet Bazin

Again, located in the Grand Cru villages of Verzy and Verzenay in the Montagne de Reims, this is mainly Pinot Noir country. They use steel tanks – no oak, and like the house of Roederer, avoid malolactic fermentation. I think Ross Duke stock Bazin wines.

Henriet Bazin – Champagne- Grand Cru – Blanc de Noirs – NV (18). Red fruit and flint with bready hints, and even a touch of oysters – which would certainly make them a perfect match for this wine! 18 pts

Henriet Bazin – Champagne Grand Cru – Brut Millesime 2004 – (17.25). A lovely textured wine, with both Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%) components contributing – red fruits, mineral notes and citrus, with a lovely rounded mouthfeel. 17.25 points

Henriet Bazin – Champagne ‘Carte Or’ – Brut Premier Cru – 2005 (17.75). The Chardonnay component hails from Premier Cru vineyards, hence the designation. Complex, with yeasty autolytic characters and flavours from secondary development with age – caramel and honey notes. 17.75 pts

Barnaut Edmont

Located in the Montagne de Reims, the property is in the Grand Cru vineyard of Bouzy.

Barnaut Edmont – Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Grand Cru Again, red fruit character on the palate, fine mousse, good acid, well balanced. Some brioche character evident. 17.25 pts

Barnaut Edmont – Champagne Grand Reserve Millesimé Grand Cru – 2000 (18.25). Toasty, biscuity and honey flavours from evolution in the bottle. Peach and citrus evident on the palate. 50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 6g dosage. 18.25 pts

Marc Chauvet

Situated in Rilly la Montagne, a village in the Montagne de Reims and classed “premier cru”.

Marc Chauvet – Champagne Brut Selection – NV (18).One of their “base” wines, composed of 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, this was the best value for money at the tasting (34 Euro/ A$50). Fresh and crisp, with citrus and nectarine fruit. More feminine and less “angular” than the Pinot dominant wines above. 18 pts

Coulon

Coulon – Millesime – 2002 (18).This is a Blanc de Noirs consisting of half each components of Pinot Noir and Meunier. It spends 5 years on lees before disgorgement (ie current vintage actually 2003). Dosage is at 5g/l. A versatile Champagne, with excellent red and white fruit aromas, could be an aperitif or food wine. 18 pts

Coulon – Cuveé Prestige – “Les Coteaux de Vallier” Premier Cru – NV ( 18.5). This Chardonnay dominant (80%) Champagne has spent 10 years aging in the Coulon cellars. Post primary fermentation, the Chardonnay component spends 12 months in barrels on its lees. The result is a complex and rich wine, with stonefruit, brioche/toast, butter and honey flavours which retains an fresh acid lift. 18.5 pts

Raymond Boulard

These guys have over 10 ha of vineyards spread over the Montagne de Reims and the Valleé de la Marne, including Grand Cru holdings in Mailly. I tried two of the three on offer and both were sensational.

Raymond Boulard – Grand Cru Mailly Brut – NV (18.5). (90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay) Complex and long, with red fruit and biscuit characters. There is a proportion (about 15%) of old reserve wine vinified in oak. Dosage at 7g/l. Website says full malolactic fermentation. 18.5 pts

Raymond Boulard – Petraea XCVII Brut Solera En Futs – NV (18.5). (60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir) Petraea refers to the oak quercus petraea. This explanation is lifted from their website: “Every year, the wine from the latest harvest, vinified and aged separately, is incorporated in the blend (up to ¼ of the whole quantity) and an equal quantity is then taken from the blend for bottling. This principle known as ” Solera ” assures the presence of old wines in the blend.” That is, the blend contains 75% reserve wine, at least a minute quantity dating back to when the “solera” was begun over 50 years ago. The result is a complex fuller bodied style superbly suited to food. I’m pretty sure Ross Duke has wines from Boulard. 18.5 pts

Paul Dethune

Again, a small operation, with 7 hectares of vineyards in the Montagne de Reims, all Grand Cru.

Paul Dethune – Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs – NV (17.75). (100% Pinot Noir) The use of barrel aging evident on nose. Fine structure with spicy notes and yet subtlety. 17.75 pts

Paul Dethune – Champagne Cuveé Prestige – “Princesse Des Thunes” – NV (18). (A blend of 50% each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine displays bready characters, preserved apricot and lemon zest and has great length, complexity and elegance. 18 pts

Final thoughts It occurs to me that I have highlighted more wines with Pinot dominance, possibly reflecting my own taste preferences. Also, a significant number of vigneron producers still use traditional barrel maturation techniques, more so, I would venture to suggest, than non-grower Champagne.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen