Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

New Release Reds – Italian

6 April 2010

The surprises continue here at Fine Wine Club.

This week’s panel tasting looked at a range of red wines, primarily made from Italian/Spanish grape varieties. Often, these wines can be savoury and structured in a style that is typically more suited to drinking with food than tasting on their own.

There has been a change in the approach made by many of the younger European wine makers over the last few years however. There is a trend toward retaining the primary fruit characters of the wines and adding some new oak into the winemaking mix. The result is a more modern wine that is more accessible to Australian wine drinkers who are used to fresh, modern and (importantly) clean wines.

The surprises came not from this new breed of imported wine, but from a range of Australian wines made from less common grape varieties. Highlights Included the wines from Banrock Station. Their new Mediterranean Collection has produced some great value wines. Both the Temperanillo and the Montepulciano are very smart wines and will offer outstanding value at $15 or less per bottle.

Another surprise came from the Paul Conti. Of all the wines tasted, this was the most traditional in style. A very good wine. The star of the tasting was the Running with Bulls Temperanillo. Made by Louisa Rose from Yalumba, this is a sexy wine that really hits the mark. Buy a six-pack and drink a bottle every year to see how it develops.

Tasted

Running With Bulls – Temperanillo -2008 (17.7). Dense yet pretty nose with lovely floral fruit tending towards roses. Ripe fruit characters on the palate with licorice and spice to add complexity. The dry finish lingers. Very long and fine, this will take some time in bottle. Very good wine.

Paul Conti – Temperanillo – The Tuarts – 2007 (17.2). Precise, focussed nose with menthol, tar, cinnamon and a touch of tobacco leaf. More of the same on the palate in a dry style. The tannins are fine but mouth coating. A textural wine that needs some food. More reserved, tight and structured.

Banrock Station – Temperanillo – Mediterranean Collection – 2007 (17.1). Ripe fruit with Satsuma plum on the nose. Fresh and vibrant palate with currants and some dusty spice. Remarkably soft finish makes this excellent short term drinking. Excellent balance with silky tannins to close. Probably has had some whole bunch fermentation.

Banrock Station – Montepulciano – Mediterranean Collection – 2008 (17). Dusty cherry characters. Savoury, but with some sweet fruit over tar and a touch of licorice. The palate is bursting with ripe cherries. Fruit driven, but with plenty of tannin grip on the close to tighten up the finish. Long and juicy. (Confusingly, Montepulciano is the name of both a grape and a town in Italy.)

Care – Shiraz Temperanillo – Carinena – 2008. (16.8). More savoury characters here and quite interesting. Fresh and fruit driven, with gentle tannins and acid to keep the balance. Not a big wine, but good drinking. (Synthetic cork).

Dominion de Goren – Vino De La Tierra De Castella – Codices – 2006. (16.6). Sweet fruit and clean winemaking. Cherry, herbs and a medicinal character work together on the nose with a touch of menthol. A structured wine with a souring cherry finish. Would work well with food.

Wild Oates – Temperanillo – 2008 (16.5). Less obvious nose, but this is a well put together wine. The palate has simple fresh fruit tending towards some stewed plum characters. A solid effort.

Last Sunday Tasting Group

27th September 2009

The start of school holidays coincided with this month’s tasting, which saw a much smaller turnout than normal. Myles Beaman gave us the theme of Spanish wine, and kindly hosted the tasting. I was surprised at the number of excellent wine regions in Spain. Typically, I think of Rioja and Sherry as being the most well known wines, but when I looked into the regions, there are many that I recognize and admire. Follow the link to decanters web site for an excellent map of the regions.

The regions with the greatest reputations are Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) is the most important grape grown in each region. In Rioja, blending partners include grenache (garanche), graciano and mazuelo. In Ribera, besides tempranillo, the grapes permitted in the blend include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and grenache.

The wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero have four different levels, which (in theory) relate to quality. Each level has minimum requirements that must be met to use the name.

Joven – Typically unoaked
Crianza – Minimum aging of one year in oak and one year in bottle
Reserva – Minimum aging of one year in oak and two years in bottle
Grand Reserva – Minimum of two years aging in oak and a further three years in bottle

Myles kept to the theme with dinner and presented some very authentic Spanish fare that helped soak up some of the wine. It must be said that the food was fantastic and complemented the wine beautifully.

Tasted

Alvaro Palacios – Dofi – Priorat – 1999 (18.5). A blend of grenache, shiraz, cabernet and merlot. Wow, very complex, with aged characters, leather, spice and sweet fruit. This evolved in the glass and was really compelling. The earthy leathery characters continued on the palate, but did not dominate. Opened with cherries and anise fruit on a fine and quite seamless structure. Great drinking.

Pingus – Flor de Pingus – 2001 (18). Very leathery and starting to show some developed characters on the nose. It is the palate that is really stunning. Silky fruit floods the palate, with a long seamless finish. There are a lot of earthy and barnyard characters. We all loved it, but the style may challenge Australian shiraz lovers.

Borsao – Tres Picos – Garancha – 2007 (17.7). Wow, this is impressive. Ripe, clean and fresh, the nose opens with plum, grapefruit, sour cherries and a slight medicinal character. The palate is dense, textured and layered, with licorice and a touch of menthol. Would do well with food. (May polarize, but worth a try).

Pesquera – Reserva – Ribera del Duero – 1998 (17.5). Interesting nose of leather and spice. The spicy characters continue on the long and savoury palate. Quite linear.

Telmo Rodrigues – Lanzaga – Rioja 2006 (17.3). Very closed and dense with ribena and licorice notes to start. The palate is dusty and fine with some licorice fruit. While the oak is apparent now, it does not intrude. A very silky palate suggests this will evolve well over the next five or more years.

Sierra – Cantabria – Crianza – Rioja – 2004 (17.2). Quite delicious wine, with appealing savoury fruit. The palate displays plums, leather and some earthy characters. Complex, long and fine. (100% Tempranillo).

Baltasar – Calatayud – Vinas Viejas – Garanche – 2003 (17)). Fresh fruit and maraschino cherries on the nose. This is a big wine. With textured plummy fruit, licorice, all-spice and leather. There are savoury tannins and oak that serve to shut down the fruit.

Vasse Felix – Tempranillo – 2007 (16.9). Fresh and clean, with ripe red berries, licorice and a touch of leather. There is sweet ripe fruit on the palate that is relatively simple. Very modern.

Marques de Velila – Crianza – Ribera del Duero – 2001 (16.8). Developed characters of leather and earth on the nose. The palate is quite peppery with sweet fruit under a supple leathery surface. Fine tannins, but lacks the depth of fruit of the better wines here.

Cosme Palacio Y Hermanos Crianza – Rioja – 1998 (16.5). Appears quite old. Lovely mouth feel, but leathery fruit faded. (Had been decanted several hours before).

Pre Release – Mixed

Reviewed: 12 December 2011

I had a call from my good friend John Jens asking for help. In short, he needed to assess some imported wines quickly to see if it was worth buying some of the remaining stock. No problems I said, so I threw in a few locals to keep the French honest and we were in business.

This turned out to be an excellent tasting. The overall quality of the wines was very high. The highlight was a bracket of Southern Rhone wines that should be available in Perth at some point in the new year. The Chateauneuf-du-Pape were both excellent and the Lirac should be good value. Definitely wines to watch.

As most of these wines are not available yet, they have not made it in to my wines of the week.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault-Charmes – 2009 (18+). Interesting nose that is attractively perfumed but very fine, showing grapefruit, lees and struck match minerality. Lean fruit, but there is excellent penetration on the palate, building real depth on the finish . The persistence is admirable and the finish quite seamless. Plenty of potential and sure to do well over the next five years.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny-Montrachet – 2009 (18). More obvious fruit (honeysuckle and lemon) in another bigger style. Power and intensity combine with racy acidity to provide a thrilling palate. The finish is very long, with great persistence. The wine has complex mineral notes to close and is, again, quite seamless. Ultimately, a whisker behind the Meursault-Charmes, but better drinking and better value now.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Creamy nose, with a lean tropical fruit note running down the middle. Quite mealy with mineral aromas and a touch of flint. Very powerful fruit on the palate, this has it all. Peach, nectarine and lovely texture with some oak char to close. There is good length and balance to the finish. This is a bigger style that really works. Drink over the next few years.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2010 (17.5). Tight and reserved, this is just a baby. There is quality fruit that hints at pineapple, as well as seamless oak that caresses the finish. Without the ultimate complexity of the best here, this is a refined wine of some appeal.

Reds

Alain Jaume – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Vieux Terron – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant, spicy and perfumed nose showing orange peel, tar, rose water and sappy acidity. This is finer and better balanced than the Les Origines, making it easier to drink now. An enjoyable wine showing complex plum and cherry, with hints of chocolate and licorice on the palate. A lovely wine with excellent length to close.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Les Origines – 2009 (18). Another lovely nose here. Cedar, spice, plum, cherry, tar and roses all come to the fore on the nose. The palate is textured and spicy, with plenty of chocolate fruit. The acid notes are a bit high now, but this should settle. Delicious, the savoury finish really suites the wine.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Lirac – Clos Sixte – 2009 (17.5). Fresher, denser and more alive than the Luberon. Tar, plum, cherry and spice on the nose. Fragrant and very spicy, this is a very enjoyable wine. The palate is full and fleshy, and the acidity carries the palate well. Juicy, succulent and delicious, with drying tannins on the finish. Made by Alain Jaume & fils.

Domaine Christophe Savoy – Gammay – Chiroubles – Cuvee Loic – 2010 (17). More body and density than the village wines tried here, this is quite lovely. Fresh red berry fruit is evident, but this has texture and a lovely mouth-feel too, courtesy of ripe tannins. Savoury to close, this would be great with food.

Ludmila & Sylvian Morey – Grenache Blend – Luberon – Bastide du Claux – 2007 (16.2). Lovely, seductive nose. Savoury, souring acidity, plumy fruit. Relatively simple, but satisfying.

Other Reds – New Release

Reviewed: 25 October 2011

Not many of the wines made it through to this review, but the wines that did are all worthy of a look. The Angove – Butterfly Ridge is nothing more than a pleasant quaff. At RRP of $6.99 however, this is a great entry level wine.

The Grant Burge is a very good wine that, whilst not cheap, is good value all the same. Finally, The Hidden Cave by Devil’s Lair is a new label to me, but the wine is very smart.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – The Holy Trinity – 2008 (17.8). This wine has excellent (old vine?) fruit quality. The nose is packed with bright fruit, though there is a dusty/savoury note that adds complexity. The palate has ripe fruit that is not over done. Powerful, dense and rich, the length is very good. The palate is shut down by fine tannins, but this is a wine of some potential. Chocolate fruit with mulberry, cherry and cedary spice to close.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2010 (17.5). Pretty smart wine this. The cabernet fruit provides the structure and body to this wine, whilst the shiraz provides fruit lift on the finish and hints of plum and spice. Silky tannins and good length make this an excellent short term drinker. Round and soft palate.

Purple Hands Wines – Grenache – Old Vines – 2010 (17.5). Pretty wine, with floral aromas over subtle savoury notes. Really silky and fine, this has excellent length and persistence. The palate really goes on and on. Impressive, dense, old vine fruit with latent power.

Koltz – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Etruscan – 2009 (17.2). Dense, though with some dusty, savoury notes that add a degree of authenticity. Cherry, plum and vibrant fruit with a long and savoury finish. This is smart, though relatively uncomplicated at the moment. Chewy texture to close and creamy oak adds to the finish.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2010 (17.2+). There is a core of sweet fruit running through the nose. Plum, strawberry and hints of vanilla courtesy of the oak. Chocolate fruit on the palate with fine, though firm, tannins to close and good texture. Smart wine that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.3). Fresh plum fruit that is simple yet appealing. Soft fruit with enough structure to keep the palate fresh. A well made commercial wine.

Barossa Red Blends

Last Sunday Tasting Group

Reviewed: 25 June 2011

For regular readers of this column, you will know that this tasting is the highlight of my tasting month. The combination of good friends, fine wine and lovely food is very compelling.

The theme this month was Barossa blends from 2004 or earlier. In my mind, I was thinking GSM type blends, but in retrospect, these blends have become a lot more common in recent years. So the tasting had a fair smattering of cabernet/shiraz blends.

The tasting served to remind me of just how good these blends are, delivering the structure of cabernet, with the richness of shiraz. I am not sure why we have become fixated on single vineyard wines from a single variety. This uniquely Australian blend is fantastic.

Thanks to Kerry and Norbert for a lovely meal!

Reviewed

Rockford – Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro – Moppa Springs 1998 (18.5). Superb nose on this. Leather, spice, plum, chocolate and coffee bean add up to a complex and alluring nose. The palate is velvety and long. Fully mature and drinking an absolute treat.

Spinifex – Grenache/Shiraz/Cinsault/Mataro – Esprit – 2002. (18.5). Very dense, old vine fruit. Rich and textured, the nose shows Christmas cake, coffee and chocolate pudding. The superb fruit is evident on the palate. This is textured, complex and very long. There is a savoury spiciness to close. Lovely wine.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Reserve – 1990 (18.3). Like The Signature, shows plenty of earth and leather, with just enough barnyard characters to add real interest. The palate is very powerful and shows lovely dense fruit of real quality. The fruit is remarkably tight for a 21 year old wine.

Deisen – Shiraz/Mouvedre – Winter Sun – 2003/2004 (18+). Really complex wine with earthy components, leather, spice and sweet plummy fruit. Long, dense, fine and textured, the palate is quite superb. I have not seen any Deisen wines before, but this unorthodox blend of vintages works a treat.

Rosemount – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – 2001 (18). Fragrant and floral, with a hint of raspberry jam to the sweet ripe fruit. The palate is spicy, supple, textured and very long, with a core of ripe fruit running the length of the palate. Not quite on theme as this is a three region blend.

Grant Burge – Shiraz/Viognier – Balthasar – 2002 (17.8). Earthy/meaty notes to open, with a lovely floral/candied lift coming from the viognier and the vanillin oak. The palate shows licorice, spice, cinnamon and plum. Good mouth-feel, balance and texture. Good acidity to close.

Penfolds – Mouvedre/Grenache/Shiraz – Old Vines – 1992 (17.8). Aged and leathery with developed tarry notes. Lovely mouth-feel, texture and excellent length. This has thrown a big crust.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Signature – 2001 (17.8). Fragrant, floral and quite delicious. The perfumed fruit is really quite fantastic. Again, there are the leather and earthy notes, but this is more medium bodied than some here. Cabernet adds to the structure and provides some tobacco and eucalypt notes.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Signature – 1990 (17.7). Supple and silky, showing tar and leather with hints of spice and plum. The palate is earthy and complex, with a touch of herbal/tobacco leaf flavours courtesy of the cabernet. A savoury wine that has plenty of life left in it.

Charles Melton – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Nine Popes – 1997 (17.5). Mature and developed, though the palate is still quite lively. An excellent drink.

Veritas – Shiraz/Mataro (pressings) – Bulls Blood – 2002 (17.5). Fresh red berries on a lovely nose that is dense and complex. Wafts of American oak in no way detract from the fruit. The palate highlights the excellent quality fruit. This is a generous and rich wine that is textured and long. Youthful tannins to close.

AP Birks – Wendouree 2008 Vintage

20 November 2010

Of the thousands of wines on the Australian market, there are a few truly great wineries/wines (both big and small). For example, Penfolds has Grange, Henshcke has Hill of Grace and Leeuwin has the Art Series Chardonnay. Then there is Wendouree.

The wines of Wendouree are, in my opinion, even more special. Yes, the quality of the wines is stunning, but it is the way that the Bradys go about things that sets them apart. Rather than selling their iconic wines to bottle-shops and restaurants, the wines are only available from the mailing list. The mailing list is closed however, so the only people who can buy the wines are their regular customers. This has prevented the price escalation and profiteering by retailers as seen with the likes of Grange.

At around $50 per bottle, the wines are not cheap, but their iconic status and sheer quality means that they are bargains all the same.

To celebrate the release of the 2008 vintage, The Wine and Food Society of Western Australia held a tasting of all the new release reds, (They also make a dessert wine). For many of us, this was a unique opportunity, as we tend to cellar the wines for many years, (as they deserve). We also tasted some back vintage wines to track their development. The results were spectacular!

If I had to make a generalisation, I would suggest that the blends are more approachable than the straight varietals when young, but all possessed elegance, combined with supple fruit that made them a joy to taste. There is, however, an extraordinarily fine tannin backbone running through the wines. The other fascinating observation was how the different blends compared. The malbec added both perfume and structure, whilst the Mataro (mouvedre) added lovely floral notes.

A special thanks to Lindsay Silbert for supplying the wines from the 1990s and to La Vigna for kindly hosting the tasting.

So to the tasting. In many ways, my points are irrelevant. The wines from 2008 were all fantastic. Whilst I had my preferences, they would all get a gold medal on their own. A word on vintage. It seems that Wendouree, like all single site wines, suffers from variations in vintage conditions and subsequent wine quality. My suggestion would be to drink the 2000 vintage while waiting for the best wines from the 1990s to fully mature.

Reviewed

(In order tasted)

Wendouree – Malbec – 2008 (18). Floral and very fragrant, with a touch of eucalypt. There is a firm seam of structured components running through the nose. The palate is silky and stylish, but the fine tannins present a striking backbone. Long and succulent fruit. Extraordinarily tight, yet very powerful fruit.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2008 (18.5). More minty cabernet fruit components to the nose. The palate is fresh and has juicy blackcurrant fruit. The balance of the wine is exceptional, with the malbec providing structure on the finish. A joy to drink.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.6). More fragrant than the blend. There are ripe red fruits with a touch of blackcurrant on the nose. The palate is again silky, but there are masses of extraordinarily fine fruit tannins on the finish. Length and texture are the key, as this is less approachable. Will be stunning.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2008 (18.3). Subtle shift to more black fruits and Plum. There is also cedary oak and lovely gentle spice. Silky and seductive , the balance is again a highlight. This will drink a touch earlier though will still last for many years.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2008 (18.5). Wow. This is lovely. Perfumed and very pretty floral notes. The palate is textured, supple, subtle, very long and incredibly silky. Yes there is power, but this is slippery. Others commented on the balance and finesse, and the grippy tannins on the close.

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2008 (18.7). Plum and spice on the nose. Very tight and restrained, this develops mulberry, plum and cedar, with a touch of floral/citrus. The palate is full of finesse and subtlety, but it really needs 10 years to start to shine. The length of the palate is incredible and very youthful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 2005 (17.8). Quite structured. Floral characters, with a hint of aniseed. There is also menthol and Clare Valley mintiness. There is even a touch of eucalypt. This is a firm and structured wine that needs time. The length is superb, but the wine remains austere. Already showing development and generosity of fruit reflective of the vintage.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2000 (17.7). Developed nose. Plum and mocha notes with a touch of licorice and cigar box. A lovely developed wine with coffee, spice and plums. The acid and tannins have softened enough to make for a good drink. Approaching peak drinking.

Wendouree – Cabernet/Malbec – 1997 (17). Quite green fruit characters, with some eucalypt, mint and a touch of herbs. The palate is firm and less generous. The balance remains but it is a cooler style reflective of a difficult year.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro 1996 (18.3). Lovely nose with chocolate, coffee and red berries. The palate is still closed, but there is a generosity of fruit on the palate that is seductive. Surprisingly fresh, this is a remarkably youthful wine. Lovely drinking. Others noticed that the wine was deceptively intense and powerful.

Wendouree – Shiraz/Malbec – 1994 (18.6). Somewhat different nose. The malbec is more obvious here. The palate has coffee and chocolate fruit with dense plum and licorice. Quite developed, this is approaching its peak. Tremendous length and depth to the palate. The silky texture is a highlight. Others commented that this really has everything. Smooth, and good drinking, this will still develop.

Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1991 (18.5). Remarkably restrained. There are classic cabernet notes of mint, red fruits and blackcurrant. This is amazingly youthful! The palate is dense and ripe. The berry fruit is intense and fresh and the tannins are firm. Develops a touch of leather on the souring finish.

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed 23 January 2013

It was a fascinating exercise to look at the two pinots from Moss Wood. One is from Margaret River and the other from Mornington. Stylistically, the wines were quite different, with the feminine appeal of the Mornington being my pick.

I have not seen the Abel’s Tempest from Heemskerk before, but if this is an example of the quality of their wines, then I need to try some more.

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (17.8). This wine has ripe fruit that is precise and very refined. In fact, it has been superbly made and has no rough edges. The palate is gently textured and refined, with the oak there merely for support. The length of flavours on the finish is admirable. The next day this was even better, as the silky fruit had opened and the structure softened. A very good new-world pinot and an excellent drink!

Heemskerk – Pinot Noir – Abel’s Tempest – 2010 (17.5). Opens with complex, savoury, almost earthy aromas, with lovely fruit on show that has been well handled. The palate displays textured, vibrant fruit, though this is currently shut down by fine oak and tannins. Should evolve over the next few years. Beautifully made, this is a lighter style that opens in the glass to become an excellent drink. (If this is their second wine, I must try a bottle of their top wine!)

Spring Vale – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.2). Dense fruit that has some ripe fruit characters over stalky/whole bunch ferment aromas and flavours. Quite complex really, the fruit here is powerful, and really sweetens up with air. Quality fruit that has been well handled, this is a supple, pretty wine with excellent length. A good wine that is accessible now.

St Huberts – Pinot Noir – 2011 (16.5). Ripe cherry fruit, with pleasant stalky characters. The palate is fresh, with gentle spice and acidity to close. The fruit is not particularly dense, but has been handled well. Supple, uncomplicated drinking over the next few years.

Pinot Noir Benchmark Tasting

A Sommeliers Australia event

hosted by

Sam Badger and Lamont’s Cotesloe

Reviewed: 10 December 2012

This was an interesting tasting, with the 2010 wines from Australia showing well. In particular, the Provenence was a highlight. I was also very impressed by the Evesham Wood from Oregon. The highlight however, was the bracket of Burgundies. There were a couple of superb (if expensive) wines on show.

Christmas is around the corner and if there was one wine that I could have in my stocking, it would be the Mazi Chambertain from Harmand Geoffery. This is a spectacular wine by any measure and has a reminded me how good Burgundy can be.

Thanks again to Sam, Lamont’s and Sommeliers Australia.

Reviewed

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Deep colour compared to some here, perhaps reflecting the extra bottle age. Quite a meaty wine that lacks some floral prettiness initially, but this really opens up with air to reveal ripe strawberry fruit. On the palate, there is actually some pepper and spice. Good length, fine tannins and structured oak are all sympathetic, while the taut acid suits the style well. Long and fine close, this has an elegant structure. (Tasmania).

Ocean Eight – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.8). Very pale colour, though the wine is not crystal clear. Strawberry aromas to the fore with a touch of herbaceousness and soy. Very pretty fruit on a palate that is fresh and bright. Supple and textured, the long and savoury finish here is shut down by the tannins and oak. Experience suggests that this should fill out and deepen, both in colour and weight, over the next few years. (Mornington Peninsula).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Woori Yallock – 2010 (17.5 – 18). The nose is closed and unyielding right now. This has sappy, cherry fruit characters on the palate, the length is excellent and the structure well judged. Souring acidity adds to the wine and there are hints of fresh red plum and cedar to close. A lovely wine that will be at its best in 5 – 7 years. (Yarra Valley).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Fresh strawberry with hints of raspberry compote. The palate is a revelation, with dark cherry fruit, a touch of herbs and plenty of spice to close. The oak is firm, though complements the fruit, while the powdery tannins are fine and restrained. The depth and intensity of this wine makes it the standout in this bracket. Now to 10 years. (Geelong).

Pegasus Bay – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5). Fleshy fruit on the nose with plum and savoury notes too. The palate is fleshy, long and full of plump fruit. The tannins are slightly chalky which adds to the appeal. This is a very forward, approachable style with generous, sweet fruit and appealing structure. Of all the wines tasted, this is the wine that I would serve today if friends popped over as it is just so easy to drink. (Waipara).

Evesham Wood – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Tight red berries up-front here with a hint of violet perfume and even aniseed. The palate is bright and fresh, with a touch of oak and spice on display. Succulent and juicy, with excellent tannins and acid that really freshen up the finish. I like the way the acid and tannins cut through the fruit. With chewy/savoury characters to close, this wine grew on me. (Oregon).

Rippon – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18 – 18.5). I like this a lot. The nose is dense, though the fruit characters are hard to pin down. The palate is in the same mould and is silky, soft, textured, supple and long. There is density to the fruit, though again the flavour profile is hard to pin down. It was noted by some that this was the most complex wine on show from NZ, with a hint of truffle, mushroom, white pepper and savoury spice. Evolves and builds with air to show lovely texture. Great drinking now, but even better in 5 years.

Domaine de Montille – Volnay – 1er Cru -Pinot Noir – La Carelle – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Silky, sweet, perfumed, cherry-like fruit aromas to open. This is quite straightforward initially, though there is nice structure and the fruit develops in the glass and in the mouth. Supple and silky, this needs a few years to develop, but will offer plenty of drinking charm. A lovely spicy wine.

Domaine Harmand Geoffroy – Mazi Chambertin – Grand Cru – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5 – 19). An outstanding wine that combines lovely fruit with savoury, almost earthy characters in a dense and powerful package. The palate is unbelievably good, with intense fruit, superb structure and superb balance. The palate is near seamless and evolves for some time with a touch of chocolate developing over the cherry fruit. This fans out on the finish and develops a panoply of flavours. The fruit has absorbed the high-quality oak leaving the textural components rather than overt flavours. The length is truly outstanding. An amazingly powerful wine that could be drunk now or in ten years with pleasure.

Domaine Bonneau de Martray – Corton – Grand Cru – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5). Whilst closed on both the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe, in the attractive sour cherry spectrum, with a touch of savoury spice and plum. This is a savoury wine that relies more on texture than primary fruit to deliver impact. The finish is very long, powerful and dense and evolves for some time on the palate. The tannins are silky, yet slightly chewy to close. Whilst not as overtly powerful as the Mazi, this is like the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, as the latent power is palpable. Needs time to live up to its potential.

Domaine Meo Cazumet – Vosne Romanee – 1er Cru – Pinot Noir – Les Charmes – 2008 (18.5). The (sweet) oak is more apparent on both the nose and palate here. The fruit is very subdued now, but there is no doubting the quality of this wine. There is great intensity to the fruit and the palate evolves and builds for a long time. The fruit has great depth and power, though of all the wines here, this needs the most time to hit its peak. Angular, long, tannic, intense, powerful, textured and precise, this is an outstanding wine of great structure, but please be patient.

Giant Steps – 2011 Release

Reviewed: 17 September 2012

Giants Steps have been taking, well, giant steps in their pursuit of making wines that reflect the place in which the grapes are grown. With access to several excellent vineyards in the Yarra Valley, Steve Flamsteed has produced a superb range of wines that speak of the place where they were grown.

The current release of chardonnays and pinot noirs are from the 2011 vintage. This was a very cold and wet vintage that presented numerous challenges in the vineyard and winery. Properly managed, it is clear that the vintage has produced some excellent wines, albeit in a finer, more elegant style to the 2010s. I expect that in the longer term, the 2011’s from Giant Steps will be fantastic.

The Chardonnays saw 20% new oak, plenty of lees stirring and, in 2011, had only partial malo-lactic fermentation.They are lean and elegant. The pinots are feminine, subtle and supple. They are light bodied now, but experience has shown that with 5 – 10 years in the bottle, these will flesh out and build depth. Quantities of all wines are very limited, so I suggest trying your favourite bottle shop soon.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so as usual, my points are for indication purposes only.

Reviewed

Giant Steps – Viognier – Mule – 2011 (17). Apricot and citrus aromas with hints of honey. The palate balances gentle viscosity and texture with fresh acidity that imbues the finish with real drive. Good length of flavour in a leaner style that works really well. Picked earlier to retain crispness, this is a good alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Really creamy and fine, with cashew nut complexity and a lovely mineral core. Hints of lanolin over elegant melon fruit. Stone-fruit on the finish combines with texturing oak and fine acidity to confer excellent length. An elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2011 (18.2). Perhaps the most complete of the three 2011 chardonnays. On the nose there is nutty minerality, whilst the fruit on the palate has real thrust and drive. The balance and length are highlights. The fine minerality is a key component to the finish while the oak and lees characters are a mere whisper on the finish. An excellent wine of real class, this will be even better in 3 – 5 years.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Arthurs Creek Vineyard – 2011 (17.5). Slightly richer fruit on the nose. Again, there is lovely creamy notes over delicate fruit aromas. The palate is more forward with strong minerality over subtle fruit. The winemaking influences are less obvious, making this better drinking today. The length is a standout. This should age well also.

Giant Steps – Sangiovese – Mule – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit. Has authentic characters, but a degree of fleshiness courtesy its new world origins. Good length and juicy fruit make this a good drink now.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8+). Light strawberry hue reflecting the vintage conditions. With cherry and subtle strawberry and spice aromas, this is quite perfumed and evolves in the glass. The palate is firm and austere right now, but the fruit and tannins have an attractive degree of ripeness. An elegant, feminine wine that finishes with tarry complexity. The structure, mouth-feel and length are excellent and the finish is slightly chewy. This really needs a year or two to settle down and open up.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Gladysdale Vineyard – 2011 (18). If anything, even lighter than the Sexton. Complex, pepper and spice, with precise textural components. Elegant fruit on the palate leads on to a textured finish. This really is very long and fine. Subtle and supple, this is very feminine, but still has a degree of power to the fruit. Needs a few years to flesh out, but patience will be rewarded. Burgundian in style.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2011 (18.5). Delicate colour here. More intensity to the fruit on the nose, with more overt cherry aromas on display. This is a lovely wine in the mouth! The texture and mouth-feel are superb. The fruit is remarkably intense on the finish for such a delicate wine and the length is notable. Evolves and builds with air, developing a chewy texture from ripe, though firm tannins and supple oak. Good now, but even better in 5 years.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2010 (18). Wow, the increased fruit intensity and density comes as a shock after the refined and elegant 2011. Spice and smoky notes on the nose over dense red fruits. Much richer in the mouth than the 2010, with firmer tannins on the chewy, textured finish. Good length, but lacks the ultimate balance of the 2011.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Harry’s Monster – 2010 (18-18.5). With all the hype about pinot, it is easy to forget just how good Yarra Valley cabernet can be. The wine is closed, but hints at its potential. The fruit is ripe, taut, dense, very finely structured and superbly long. Textured, this has fine tannins and the quality oak has been expertly managed. Ripe tannins are a highlight. Will live for a long time.

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed: 10 May 2012

We started this tasting with a couple of sparkling wines that are worth trying. Both are very well made and the Patricia is an excellent sparkling wine regardless of Origin. Whilst the wine is stylistically slightly different to Champagne, it is in no way inferior to many NV champagnes on the Australian market today.

Tasting the pinot bracket was an excellent exercise. In some ways, it could just have easily been labelled the Steve Webber Tasting as the De Bortoli, Chalk Board, Riorret and Phi were all made under his control. Interestingly, the last three are all from the 2008 vintage. I elected not to include the Riorret or Phi in this review, but they are worth trying if you are a pinot tragic. (Though they are not cheap).

The star of the tasting was the Shaw and Smith. This is one of the best Adelaide Hills pinots that I can remember. The De Bortoli is also worth a mention. From a value point of view, the Central Otago Chalk Board is a spectacular buy. Real pinot noir for $15 per bottle.

Reviewed

Brown Brothers – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Patricia – 2006 (17.8). Complex, creamy, delicate and refined, this has a lovely nose. There is also fresh brioche and red fruit notes. The palate is creamy, with a lovely balance between freshness and autolysis characters. Very long and persistent, this is an excellent aperitif style. Not obviously Champagne-like, but an excellent sparkling wine.

Lake Barrington Estate –Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Alexandria – 2008 (17). A much more linear wine that has a very youthful outlook. Quite predominant chardonnay characters lead on to a firm and powerful finish, with excellent acidity. Lingers. Not as complex as the Patricia yet, but easy to like. (This may well improve with another year or so in the bottle).

Shaw and Smith – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). A delicious nose showing lovely bright cherry fruit with strawberry highlights. Earthy, forest floor characters over sour cherry and hints of aniseed on a structured palate. A complex, if somewhat youthful wine that has excellent length and persistence. Develops nicely with air. A superb Australian pinot that deserves a home in many of our cellars!

De Bortoli – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.6). Deep smelling and pure, with subtle fruit and oak on the nose. The palate has finesse and charm with bright red fruits over earthy characters. Good length and excellent persistence, this should do very well over the next 5 years. Opens to show sour cherry fruit, silky tannins and excellent length.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.3). Dense and attractive. This is a complex wine of great substance. Cherry and spice on the nose are followed by a palate that is long, succulent and juicy. Quite seamless and textured, this is a pretty wine that will provide drinking joy over the next few years.

Galafrey – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17). Pretty strawberry and spice aromas, without quite as much depth as the superstars right now. The palate is excellent, with chewy, textural components over quite complex fruit. One to watch.

Chalk Board – Pinot Noir – Central Otago – 2010 (17). A complex wine that has all the traits of quality pinot. Dark cherry fruit combines with quality oak and silky tannins on the palate. A little raw on the finish now, this is going to do very well over the next 5 years. Exclusive to Vintage Cellars and made by Peregrine.

Ballewindi – Pinot Noir – 2010 (16.9). Meatier/earthy style with plum, dark berry and pretty strawberry highlights. Nothing out of place, just not overtly pinot in style. In fact, this is an excellent dry red wine showing plum and dark berry fruit. Will improve.

Chalk Board – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2008 (16.5). Open and enticing nose showing the benefit of a few years in bottle. Bright and forward fruit on the palate. Not particularly complex or long, but an enjoyable drink. Made by De Bortoli and exclusive to Vintage Cellars.