Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Barolo

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy

27 October 2010

The wines of Barolo get their name from the village of Barolo, around which the DOCG appellation is located, in the Piedmontese province of Cuneo in the Langhe hills. The wine is made from the Nebbiolo variety, which is an early budder but late ripener, thriving best in calcerous soil. Therefore, in cool North West Italy, sites which have the greatest sun exposure, by virtue of slope orientation, and the requisite soil type, provide the best conditions for Nebbiolo to thrive. Though a tannic variety, the skins of Nebbiolo are not so much thick as tough, accounting in part for the sometimes lighter colour of Barolo wines.

Barolo was “invented” in the 19th Century by a French winemaker, Louis Oudart, at the invitation of the Count of Cavour – prior to this, wines from the area were sweet rather than dry. In what would become tradition, wines were macerated and fermented for several weeks, thus explaining the extraction of tannic components, and then aged in large oak or chestnut butts for up to 3 years and more. The result was a wine best left to age in the bottle, to be drunk after a period of 10 years at least.

The oft referred to “Barolo Wars” of the 1970’s and 80’s refer to the development of the more widespread use of shorter maceration and fermentation times, the employment of aging in small French oak barriques, and longer bottle aging at the expense of time in oak. This led to a more approachable, “modern” style of Barolo, with the innovators at loggerheads with the so-called “traditionalists”.

The current situation has evolved so that, usually, some kind of middle ground is adopted by most producers. This is epitomised by the producer we visited in the Cannubi vineyard, smack bang in the commune of Barolo, considered to be one of the prime sites for production of quality Barolo. (Attempts to classify vineyards by quality into vineyards considered “cru” have as yet not been granted official sanction.)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno have been making Barolo for more than three generations. We were guided through our tasting by Danillo Boffa, who has married into the Borgogno family. Over the course of the tasting, Danillo espoused the virtues of the site, describing themselves as custodians of a great gift. As with many Old World winemakers, the importance of terroir, and in particular the terrabianca (white clacerous/clay) soil, and orientation of the slope of the vineyards, were seen as key. He also spoke about the importance of “tradition”, seeing it as an essential ingredient in the creation of any wine. In our brief discussion about Australian wines, he commented that it would be difficult to make great wine in any country without a “tradition” of winemaking.

Should I at this point talk about the history of Australian wine dating back to before Barolo was “invented”? To Sir James Busby? And the many greater than 100 year-old vines to be found in Australia? The many different “terroirs” that we, too, were discovering? The many passionate winemakers all over Australia, who marry the numerous Australian-led innovations in wine science to a respect for the art of winemaking? I thought better of it – perhaps another time….

In reality, the “tradition” that Danillo spoke about placed emphasis on the use of old large butts (bote) and no small French oak barrels. On this point, this producer is indeed “traditional”. However, in terms of maceration and fermentation times, temperature controlled fermentation, yeast innocula, – the list goes on – the producer has adopted some the more enlightened “modern” methods.

Though most of its 60,000 bottle production is derived from grapes grown in its own vineyards, the Dolcetto D’Alba, Barbera D’Alba and Barbaresco are made from grapes sourced from trusted growers in Fossati (a few kilometres south), Castellinaldo (in Monferrato) and San Rocco Senio d’Elvio, (a few kilometers northeast, close to Alba) respectively.

On to the wines (note: prices are ex-cellar):

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Dolcetto D’Alba DOC – 2009 (15.5). Suffering somewhat from having spent a little too much time opened, the cherry fruit core was still evident. 15.5 pts (5 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barbera D’Alba DOC – 2007 (16.5). Classed as “Superiore” for having spent 24 months in large boti (butts), this wine was understated yet showed great structure, a lovely medium weight palate with soft cherry/berry fruit. 16.5 pts (6.50 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Nebbiolo D’Alba DOC – 2005 (17.5). Light coloured, with the classic “tar and violets” signature of Nebbiolo, with perfumed fruit poking through its chewy tannins. A fantastic wine! 17.5 pts (7.20 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barbaresco DOCG – 2007 (18). This wine had spent 2 years in large wooden butts, and showed mint, herb and spicey notes, even a whiff of scorched almonds, with chewy plum and berry fruit, and wonderful length, encased in mouth puckering tannins. 18 pts (14 euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Cannubi DOCG – 2006 (18). Opened earlier that morning, this wine was the quintessence of young Barolo – tight, with firm tannins and tarry notes, with a hint of prunes poking through. 18 pts (18 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Cannubi DOCG – 2005 (18). Showing a little more development than its younger sibling, more spice, truffle and tobacco notes. 18 pts (18 Euro)

Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno – Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004 (18). Spending a whopping 5 years in large butts, this showed even more development with anise, cinnamon, tar, truffles and smoky notes. 18 pts (19 Euro)

As can be seen by my points, this was a tasting of superlative quality. I cannot wait for my order to arrive! Interestingly, there were some back vintages on sale also, including Baroli from 1999, 2001, and, yes it is not a misprint, 1971!

After the winery visit, we popped in to the little town of Barolo. Once an impoverished part of Italy, the town has been transformed into a wine tourist’s paradise. Nowhere in Italy have I seen such a collection of trendy wine bars and tasting rooms. A visit to the old Barolo castle ended the day. Now refurbished largely using private money, the castle is now the home of an ambitious wine museum. Part art installation, part interactive exhibit, it has a comprehensive section on the history of wine, with special focus on the history of Barolo wine. (17.5 pts, 12 Euro entry fee!)

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Brunello di Montalcino

A Boot-full of wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Excellent Current Releases

Brunello do Montalcino is an appellation in the southern part of Tuscany, south of Sienna, around the picturesque hilltop town of Montalcino. The tradition of Brunello goes back a relatively brief hundred or so years, with the family and firm of Biondi-Santi associated with its inception. The number of companies has ballooned however, to include over 200 producers now.

The wine is made from 100% Brunello, or Sangiovese Grosso grapes (a clone or group of clones of Sangiovese). Traditionally the wines were aged in large Slavonian oak butts for the requisite 3 years, though more and more, the use of smaller French oak barriques is becoming the norm. Commonly, some Brunello is aged in larger oak casks, some in smaller barriques, and then later blended. Often producers will make 2 levels of Brunello – a ‘normal’ Brunello, and a Riserva from the best parcels of grapes. Very occasionally, if not up to standard in poor vintage conditions, the designated Brunello can be reclassified as a Rosso di Montalcino, though usually the Rosso di Montalcino is an earlier drinking, less oaked, less extracted, and often delicious manifestation of Sangiovese Grosso.

At a recent tasting of current release Brunelli, I had the opportunity to sample 11 wines. That I have chosen to highlight eight of them indicates both the high quality level of wines at the tasting, and of Brunello in general. I have a confession to make – I love these wines, and they represent a different beast altogether to other incarnations of Sangiovese such as Chianti Classico. Most usually require bottle aging for 10 years at least in order to reveal their full tasty potential. The wines were tasted alphabetically by producer, and are presented so.

Reviewed

Altesino – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18). Cherries but also blackberries, leather and chocolate. Persistent and balanced. 18 pts. 44 Euro

Banfi – Brunello – Poggio All’Oro– DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). An early whiff of sulphur which soon blew off. A baby – long, tannic, tangy acid, complex. 18.5 pts. 84 Euro

Cupano – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2004 (17.75). The nose was a bit muted but the palate sang, with fresh dark red fruit and a savoury undertow. 17.75 pts. 84 Euro

Pacenti Franco-Canalicchio – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.25). Acid, tannins, fruit in fine balance. Complex and long. 18.25 pts 47 Euro

Piancorello – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). Incredible depth to the fruit with blackberry and raspberry, violets, and spicy anise. 18.5 pts. 46 Euro

Il Poggione – Brunello di Montalcino – I Paganelli – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.7). Complex with excellent persistence of aromas and flavours. Hints of chocolate and leather. 18.7 pts 59 Euro (For the record, the Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2008 is a cracker – providing the essence of Sangiovese unsullied by oak – 18 pts, 14 Euro)

Poggio di Sotto – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (19). Almost indescribable – wonderful length and complexity – and one would expect so at this price. 19 pts. 130 Euro

Tenuta di Sesta – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (17.75). Again began a touch sulphurous, but later a solid example of Brunello, suffering somewhat for having been tasted after the Poggio di Sotto. 17.75 pts. 44 Euro

I should add that my favourite Brunello producer, Uccelliera, was not represented at this tasting.

As can be seen, there is a range of prices for Brunello, but these producers represent excellent quality and hence value for money.

Ciao again!!

Brendan Jansen

Chianti Classico

Current Release Tasting

16 October 2010

Following my article from last year on Chianti Classico, here are a few recommended Chianti Classici, and Chianti Classico Riservas, from a recent tasting. Note that there were almost 30 wines at the tasting so the following wines are limited only to those to which I accorded a medal rating. I will keep the tasting notes brief, and try to describe the essence of each wine. I am sure that at least some will be available from retailers in Australia.

Reviewed

Buondonno – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (18.2). Complex, savoury, good balance fruit, acid, tannins. 100% Sangiovese 18.2 pts. 22 Euro

Caparsa – Chianti Classico – docg – 2004 – Riserva – “Caparsina” (17). A touch oxidized, which was a shame. Lift from small amount of Canaiolo evident. 17 pts. 19 Euro

Fontodi – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.5). Clean, with no oak influence, the essence of cherries. 17.5 pts. 15 Euro

Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2004 (17.75). Deep red and unctuous, with some colorino and canaiolo adding spice and lift. 17.75 pts. 18 Euro

Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – “Lebalze” – docg – 2001 (18). Proof yet again that Sangiovese in the right hands can age beautifully. Exquisite length. Will continue to improve for another 3-5 years. 18 pts. 23 Euro

Le Boncie – Chianti Classico – docg – “Le Trame” – 2006 (18.75). Cherry fruit suspended in ripe tannins, with complex earthy, barnyardy notes. If this means a hint of Brettanomyces, then lets have more! (Apologies to Terry James) 18.75 pts. 26 Euro

Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.25). The small percentage of unnamed grapes includes, I suspect, Merlot, which gave this wine a softer, rounder feel. 17.25 pts. 15 Euro

Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). From a good year, my tasting notes simply say “Yum!” 18.25 pts. 21 Euro

Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Il Campitello” – 2007 (17.5). Closed and a bit muted but indicative of great structure, and a long life ahead. 17.5 pts 25 Euro

Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Baron Ugo” – 2006 (18.2). Similar to the other Monteraponi wine, this had added complexity in the form of herbs and spices to add to the core of maraschino cherry fruit. 18.2 pts. 37 Euro

Podere Il Palazzino – Chianti Classico – docg – “Grosso Sanese” – 2006 (18.25). Good palate persistence of red fruit flavours and a complexity that included, I thought, soy sauce! 18.25 pts. 27.50 Euro

Quercibella – Chianti Classico – docg – 2008 (17). A fruit bomb consisting of stewed plums and cherries. 17 points. 21 Euro

Riecine – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). A lovely wine with hints of mint possibly enhanced by oak. 18.25 pts 34 Euro. (Their ‘supertuscan’ IGT “La Gioia” made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot is also a delicious drop. 18.25 pts. 42 Euro)

As a postscript, a review of 2 wines that are Chianti Classici in all but name.

Il Borghetto – “Bilaccio” – IGP – 2007 (18.5),

Il Borghetto – “Clante” (selezione prima scelta) – IGP – 2006 (18.5).

There is a story to these wines. They are made by the English winemaker Tim Manning. He has worked with Pinot Noir before and has noted the similarities between the varieties. Thus he employs whole bunch pressing and even bottles the wines in a Burgundy bottle. Therein lies the rub – the Chianti Classico Consorzio have decreed that all Chianti Classici are to be bottled in Bordeaux bottles, for uniformity! Though not mentioning Il Borghetto wines by name, the establishment has had to remove the designation “Chianti Classic docg” and replace it with an igp one! In previous vintages these wines were Chianti Classico.

A shame really, especially from a country which tends to take pride in flouting rules! Also a shame because these wines are fantastic.

The Bilaccio was long, complex and rustic with hints of chocolate and coffee intermingled with ripe red fruit. 18.5 pts. 27 Euro

The Clante, similar, but with an added spiciness, more defined acid and tannic backbones, indicating a longer aging potential. 18.5 pts. 39 Euro

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Nebbiolo

A boot-full of wine

Nebbiolo is a grape variety that has begun to have New World manifestations, but it is really the noble variety of Piedmont (even though much more Dolcetto and Barbera is grown there). Very smart examples indeed are also made in the Valtellina region north of Milan, but Piedmont is its spiritual home.

Nebbiolo is a late ripening variety, and has, surprisingly, thin, though very tough, skin. It grows best in calcerous rather than sandy soils. Its first two or so buds are infertile, so it is not a candidate for spur pruning – cane pruning (and thus hand harvesting) is the rule.

In Piedmont, its two most famous incarnations are the wines from Barolo, and those from Barbaresco. Both are 100% Nebbiolo wines. Other DOC regions also produce nebbiolo based wines, not least of which are the Boca and Gattinara regions. (As an aside, Piedmont is a place that does not subscribe to blending of varieties. Thus, from Barbera to Gavi, Barolo to Dolcetto, you will almost always find wine made from a single variety.)

Barolo wines were traditionally fermented in contact with its skins for up to 2 months, thus explaining the extraction of tannins and colour in old Baroli. Aging used to occur in large oak or chestnut butts, but amongst modernists, this has given way to French oak. In fact, winemaking in Barolo has moved to making the wines more approachable earlier than the traditional 10-year minimum of the past. Skin contact is nowadays often limited to about the average of 2 ½ weeks, and aging in oak often occurs for the minimal time allowed by law (the law requires 3 years aging, 2 of which must be in oak).

“Tar and violets”, chocolate, prunes, tobacco, truffles and autumn smoke are the common descriptors for Nebbiolo in general and Barolo in particular.

Barbaresco hails from a drier, warmer area than Barolo, at altitudes about 200-350m above sea level. Regulations allow for only 1 or 2 years aging in oak, and again there are traditionalists and modernists. Generally speaking Barbaresco is a little softer and approachable when younger than Barolo, though with the essences of violets, lush fruit, assertive acid and tannins still in evidence.

I am heading off to Piedmont next week, but here are a few great examples of Nebbiolo from a recent tasting (I am unsure about their availability in Australia, but if you track down any of them, it may be worth acquiring a few bottles):

Reviewed

Burlotto – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Monvigliero” (18.5). A lighter colour but a powerful structured wine, with lots of leather and mushroom notes. Yum! (40 Euro)

Clerico – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Ciabot Mentin Ginestra” (17.75). A traditional style Barolo, this is powerful but young and tannic, and needs time – much more time! (71 Euro)

Grimaldi Bruna – Barolo – “Badarina” – DOCG – 2006 – “Vigneto Regnola” (17.5). “Simpler” in the sense that primary fruit flavours dominate with a crisp clean palate without too many secondary flavours. 30 Euro

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Gavarini Chiniera” – 2006 (18.75). Rich and unctuous, a quintessential Barolo with tar, rose petals, truffles, and firm tannins. Stupendous! (61 Euro)

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Ginestra Casa Mate” – 2006 (18.5). Like a more feminine version of the above, with poise and finesse. (61 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – 2004 – Riserva – “Vigna Rionda” (18.8). The best Barolo in the line up. Dark and brooding, softened by its age but with many a year in front of it. Rich red fruit, herbs and smokiness. (73 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – “Margheria” – 2006 – (17.75). Again lighter in colour, but with a firm tannic structure, high acid, complex yet clean with wonderful palate line and length (to borrow a cricket analogy). (52 Euro)

Nada Fiorenzo – Barbaresco – DOCG – 2006 – “Rombone” (18.5). Softer and rounder but unmistakably Nebbiolo. Again, has the fine structure afforded by firm tannins and fruit to give it longevity – if you can keep your hands off it!! (44 Euro)

Travaglini Gattinara – DOCG – Riserva – 2004 (18). I thought this wine was fantastic, and very Barolo-esque, but, perhaps owing to its less well-known appellation, at half the price! (31 Euro)

A final note on the vintages mentioned – 2006 was very good, 2004 outstanding!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Three Rossi di Montalcino of Note

A Boot-Full of Wine

6 October 2010

Wines designated Rosso di Montalcino live in the shadow of their more famous and often more robust sibling, those labelled as Brunello. Often, however, you can get a Rosso di Montalcino of exceptional quality for a fraction of the price of a Brunello. Most Brunello producers produce a Rosso also, and thus quality levels vary as much as on the Brunello spectrum. The best Rossi di Montalcino can be even better than many Brunelli.

Here are three of note that I have tried recently:

Casanova di Neri – Rosso di Montalcino – DOC – 2008 (17.5).

This wine is reminiscent of Australian wines for me, as it brims with sweet red fruit – more white skinned plum than cherry – but has high levels of natural acid and tannin due to its 100% Sangiovese Grosso content. The wine spends longer than usual for Rossi di Montalcino in oak – 12 months – and though I could not discern from the company’s website, I wondered if a percentage was American. It has the capacity to age for a further 5 years. 17.5 pts

Salvioni – Rosso di Montalcino – DOC – 2007 (17.5).

The lighter colour of this wine betrays its mid weight, yet belies its structure, acid and tannins. Another 100% Sangiovese Grosso wine, it has cherry and a hint of strawberries, and a lovely savoury, spicy edge with leather notes in particular, when I came back to it the next day. I did not feel the 14.5% alcohol was in any way detracting. Would develop for a further 5-8 years. 17.5 pts

Valdicava – Rosso di Montalcino – DOC – 2007 (18).

I defy anyone at a blind tasting not to pick this as a Brunello. In fact, the vines are from the very sites from which their Brunello is sourced, simply younger. (That is, in the replanting cycle, newer vines are used for the Rosso.) Spending even longer in oak – a good 5-6 months longer than the usual 6-8 months for most Rossi di Montalcino – this is a wine of power yet finesse, with deep red fruit character and tobacco and spice flavours. It will keep for the long haul – I would say 10 years easily! 18 pts

The cost of these wines? I got them all for between 20 and 30 Euro – with our exchange as it stands, that is about A$30 – 45. Great value indeed!

Ciao!

Brendan Jansen

Fontodi Winery

A Boot-Full of Wine

My visit to the Fontodi winery occurred on a mild summer’s day, organised by my friend Maurizio Colia, who works for Antinori. Arriving a little early (unfashionably so, I might add, as this is Italy). I had some time to take in the breathtaking views from the front steps of the property. On my right was the beautiful hilltop town called Panzano in Chianti and before me lay the beautiful rolling Chianti hills. As is about average for the region I noted that the land was about 40% under vine, 40% still forested with the rest planted with other crops including olive trees.

By way of background, Fontodi produces Flaccianello, its flagship wine, and 100% Sangiovese. Not classed as a Chianti Classico for some of the same reasons that Isola and Olena’s Ceparello is not, the Flaccianello is one of the most sought after wines in Tuscany with a fantastic reputation. Fontodi’s Chianti Classico is at best a cracker of a wine which lets fruit, rather than oak, speak, and at worst one the purest old-style Chiantis around.

Few would have thought that when Giovanni Manetti bought a small piece of land (which included the famed Conca d’Oro, from whence Flaccianello is made) in 1968 that the Fontodi Winery would grow to take on the size it has. The property now comprises 150 ha of which 70 ha are under vine. 90% of all vines planted are Sangiovese, the 10% remaining comprising Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malvasia. The winery, after a gradual move to organic status which began in 2000, was granted organic certification in 2008. The property even owns its own cow, contributing organic fertilizer!

The soils are primarily of galestro-schist and in between rows are planted herbs such as orzo (barley). The Church of San Leolino, just around the corner, contains the famous cross of Flaccianello, from which the winery’s most famous wine derives its name. All harvesting is done by hand.

Before being taken through a guided tasting we had an opportunity to have a look at the vineyard and then the magnificent new and ultramodern winery (still in construction with a large storage area still to be completed). The winery uses a gravity system. Grapes from different vineyards are fermented separately. Fermentation takes place over 20 to 30 days at a temperature of between 20 and 30°C, and only natural yeast is used. To aid extraction hydraulic punching down is employed. Malolactic fermentation then occurs in either large old butts (in the case of the Chianti Classico for example) or in French oak barriques. Yields range from 6000 kg per hectare for Chianti Classico to 3000 kg per hectare in the case of the Flaccianello.

Battonage is used in the barrels and after the malolactic fermentation the wine is transferred to barrels for further ageing. In the case of Chianti Classico used barrels are used, with 12 months aging; in the case of the Vigna del Sorbo (the Chianti Classico Riserva) 70% new oak is used for a period of two years. In the case of the Flaccianello 100% new oak is employed for 20 months, while the Syrah spends one year in 50% new French oak.

The Fontodi stable owns about 1200 barrels at any one time, and each barrel is used for a maximum of three vintages. Therefore 300 to 400 new barrels are bought per year. They order barrels which have either medium or no toasting.

The large bote or butts are replaced after 20 years.

Tasted

Fontodi – Chianti Classico DOCG – 2007 (17). This is 100% Sangiovese. As mentioned, the wine spends a year and in used French oak. Vines are less than 10 years old in this case, alcohol levels are 14.5% The wine is clean and crisp with an essence of cherries and typical tannic and acid levels of Sangiovese. No French varietal influence here! This is an old-style Chianti Classico and an example of faultless winemaking. For those who think that Italy produces only savoury, ‘dirty’ wines – look for a bottle of this wine at your importing retailer. If you can judge a winery by the quality of its Chianti Classico, this example puts Fontodi among the best in Chianti. 17 points

Fontodi – Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Vigna de Sorbo – 2006 (17.5). Made from vines 35 years old on average. It comprises 90% Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 70% new French oak is used, as outlined above. This was closed and a touch reductive to start. It soon opened up to exhibit a fine structure (aided by the Cabernet backbone) with elements of dark red fruits and chocolate intermingled on the palate. One for the cellar – for 5 years at least; preferably 10. 17.5 points

Fontodi – IGT – Flaccianello – 2007 (18). This spends, as mentioned, 20 months in new French oak. The oak was evident on the nose and still dominant. Beneath it, a rich array of fresh red fruits was evident with the 15% alcohol not in any way detracting. Acid, fruit flavours and aromas and tannins in exquisite balance, this wine is but a baby and will continue to age gracefully 10 years and beyond. 18 pts

Fontodi – Syrah – IGT – 2006 (17). (100% Syrah grades spend a year in French Oak, 50% of which is new). On the palate green peppercorn spiciness is intermixed with dark red and in particular plum fruit. Not bad for a non Aussie Syrah! 17 points

I have tasted and written about an aged Flaccianello (1994) I have tried in the last year – proving that the variety, in the right hands, and from the best sites, has an underestimated capacity to age.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Northern Italian Wines

8 May 2010

Nicholas Belfrage MW is an authority on Italian wines. He has written several books and is a regular correspondent to leading wine magazines. Nick also acts as a wine broker and represents several top estates. Lamont’s in Cottesloe in conjunction with Negociants hosted a dinner for Nick recently where he showcased his northern Italian wines.

The highlight of the tasting for me was to see how differently pinot grigio can be made. The wine from Tiefenbrunner was a lovely drink resembling the wines of Alsace more than the Italian examples from central Italy. (In Alsace, the grape is labelled pinot gris). At $22.50, this represents very good value.

Whist the wines were not tasted blind, my unfamiliarity with the labels means that bias is unlikely to be a problem. A special thanks goes to John Jens for arranging the night and for allowing me to attended as a guest of Lamont’s.

Tasted

La Riva del Frati – Prosecco – NV (17). A good example here, with lifted apple fruit characters in a drier style. The palate is long, fresh and user friendly, with a touch of lees and a creamy finish. At $25, this is very user friendly.

Tiefenbrunner – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (17.8). From Alto Adige in the north, this has lovely floral fruit with musk and spice. Reminiscent of a wine from Alsace really. The palate is tight, fresh and quite dry. The tingling acidity leaves a lemon finish. Lamont’s have this for $22.50 which is excellent value.

Lis Neris – Pinot Grigio – 2007 (17.3). Not as aromatic as the Tiefenbrunner, but with zesty fruit. The palate has greater texture and viscosity with a touch of oiliness that adds appeal. Softer acid makes for a food friendly wine.

Cantine Pra – Soave – Classico – 2008 (17.5). Quite minerally this, with a nutty nose over mineral oil. The palate is oily, textured and creamy, partly due to the extended lees contact prior to bottling. (These wines see no oak). The finish is lemony and long, and the acids are quite soft. Good value.

Tiefenbrunner – Lagrein – Castel Turmhof – 2008 (17). Lagrein is an indigenous red grape of Italy. This was a wine in two parts. It opened with savoury, earthy (even stewed) fruit that appeared to represent some bottle development. The wine really opened up though with cranberries and red fruits that were almost in the pinot spectrum. The palate is fruit driven, but develops tar, licorice and a touch of orange peel to close. An interesting wine that should improve in the short term.

Allegrini – Valpolicella – 2008 (17). Fragrant and spicy, with red and black currant. The palate is simple, but vibrant and fresh. The fruit is in the cherry spectrum.

Allegrini – Palazzo della Torre – 2006 (18). More intense and dense, this is inky, with real density of fruit and good oak handling. Intense, with tar and spice on the palate. The oak grip complements the fruit. The finish gets all dusty and earthy. Impressive wine that will appeal to shiraz lovers. (30% of the crop is air dried prior to crushing).

Allegrini – La Grola – 2005 (18). From Verona, but bearing an IGT rating, this has rich, ripe fruit with cigar box and spice. The fruit starts off rich and dense on the palate, but has a souring “cherry pip” finish that is pleasing. A very smart wine that justifies the $50+ price tag.

Allegrini – Amarone – 2004 (17.7). Amarone is made from dried grapes, and this has taken on a somewhat raisined/porty character. While the palate is dense and builds fruit, there is a classic “peacock’s tail” effect where the fruit coats all parts of the palate with complex and evolving flavours and textures. I am not educated enough to fully appreciate what is obviously an outstanding wine. One for the aficionados.

A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes From Italy

Over the next few weeks, I will dedicate this column to sangiovese as I am in Tuscany after all, which is the home of the great wine. Sangiovese really is king in these parts.

I should mention however that sangiovese is known by many other names. This is partly due to the many different clones of the variety, but also due to the fact that each region and sub-region tends to know it by a different name. Its synonyms include Morellino (di Scansano), Brunello (di Montalcino), Montepulciano (Vino Nobile di…), Tignolo and Prugnolo. Even Sagrantino di Montefalco from neighbouring Umbria, is largely Sangiovese.

Sangiovese can be found on its own or blended with other varieties, both within and outside of the DOC system. Just because a wine is made out of sangiovese and comes from within a specific region (Chianti Classico, for example), it does not mean it will qualify to be sold as a DOC wine. It has to fulfil all the requirements of the DOC system to do so. There will be more about that in a subsequent article on Chianti Classico.

In Chianti, its traditional bedfellows are Canaiolo and Ciliegolo. It is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in Carmignano (about which I will dedicate a whole other article to) and in the so-called Super Tuscans.

Before I arrived in Italy, I viewed sangiovese as a variety characterized by being of a lighter style. I had been aware that extraction could be difficult, and that its core manifestation (in, say, Chianti Classico) was of cherry fruit and medium tannins, producing a fairly linear and uncomplicated wine. Indeed, this is a particularly delicious incarnation, and accompanies many foods, climes and moods!

But I have come to realize that, with different clonally selection, viticulture, vinification techniques (especially in relation to extraction – time and temperature of fermentation, extended maceration and barrel fermentation) and, of course, terroir, sangiovese has myriad expressions. Even two Chianti Classici will never be identical.

I will include some tasting notes below of a selection of wines, tasted at various tastings, which will not fall into categories of subsequent articles.

Salvioni – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2001 (17.5). This was a wonderful wine, and even given its age, was a touch closed. It had core fruit flavours of dark fruits, with plum coming to the fore, in a complex, savoury frame. Would have continued to improve for 5 years +.

Fontodi – Flaccianello della Pieve – IGT 1994 (18). This is the top wine from the Fontodi stable, which also produces a fantastic Chianti Classico (more in the article on that sub region). 100% Sangiovese from their best sites, the age of the wine was evident on tasting, but it retained fruit and tannins, with a silky mouth feel.

Caprai – Sagrantino di Montefalco – DOCG – 1995 (17.5). A very, if not the most, important Sagrantino, the Caprai name was synonymous with the revival of Umbria’s vinous reputation. Again age did not extinguish fruit expression, with a mint and spiciness adding to its attractiveness.

Percarlo (San Giusto a Rentenanno) – IGT – 1998 (18). Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is another 100% Sangiovese wine labeled as an IGT. I was impressed with the prune fruit flavours and, when the wine opened fully, how they mingled with spicy flavours consisting of cinnamon and cloves in particular.

Asinone – – DOCG – 1999 (18.5). The Poliziano vineyards are located mainly in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano selezione’ (Poliziano)Montepulciano, and the Asinone is a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (there is a lesser wine in the range which is also a DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, but it is not labelled ‘selezione’). Wow! A wonderfully complex wine, with fruit, spice and oak now in perfect balance to give a silky mouth feel.

The above provides just a hint of the wonderful sangiovese discoveries I have been making. I must acknowledge my new friends in the tasting group I have joined. They are as knowledgeable, generous, down to earth and hospitable as any of the groups I have belonged to in the past. They are also the source of many of the wines listed above.

Ciao,

Brendan Jansen

Cecilia Winery on the Island of Elba

Lorenzo Camerini’s uncle, Giuseppe, bought the vineyards and winery of Azienda Agricola Cecilia in 1945. At the time, the price of land and property was cheaper, before the big tourist boom of recent times caused prices to become astronomical, and for the most part, unattainable. Giuseppe set out to make wines of character and quality, and though originally from Milan, he attempted to maintain Elba’s long tradition of the passito or drying method, particularly in the making of dessert style wines.

Elba has a long and rich tradition of winemaking. At one time almost 50% of the 7000 ha of the land that constitutes the island was under vine. Wines from Elba were well known, highly prized and sought after. Now less than 200 ha remain. Partly laid to waste during the post World War II economic crisis, the focus is now on the tourism industry. This makes the reclamation of these areas for vineyards both difficult and economically prohibitive.

Lorenzo has taken over the business from his uncle, and plays the role of viticulturalist. Vittorio Fiore is the winemaker (enologo) and the results are impressive. Though there are other producers of quality on Elba (Sapereta and Acquabona in particular), Cecilia is widely regarded as the best producer on the island, selling most of its production on Elba, but exporting as far as New York. It is for this reason my Australian mate and I arranged a visit.

Elba is beautiful, and can be reached by an hour-long boat ride from the township of Piombino on the Tuscan coast. (If you are travelling by car, add another hour at least to join the disorganised queues to get on the boat!) It is probably volcanic in its origins, which explains why its tallest peak, despite its small size, is over 1000m in height. Nonetheless, it has very varied soil types, from clay to loam to hard rock rich in iron (which was mined in times dating back to the Etruscans).

Elba’s history is a rich one, and it is, perhaps, most famous for having been the place to which Napoleon was exiled by a coalition of his opponents. It must take an Emperor, even if self proclaimed, to be exiled to a place as beautiful as Elba. Nonetheless, about a year later, he escaped, to continue his conquests for almost another year, until he, quite literally, met his Waterloo.

Lorenzo met us out of office hours, and immediately took us for a tour of his 3 vineyard sites. The sites epitomized the soil differences above, and Lorenzo is experimenting with new varieties and clones in the different sites.

The principal white varieties at the moment are Trebbiano, Vermentino, Ansonica, and what we call Frontignac (or Muscat), with the reds being Shiraz, Sangiovese and Aleatico.

I have come to believe that it is difficult to produce a Vermentino or Trebbiano of interest, in Tuscany at least. Lorenzo’s examples were clean and crisp, lean and fresh. They would be great aperitifs. His Ansonica, another indigenous grape variety of Italy, was fuller, with more tropical fruit flavours including pineapple, and would be an ideal accompaniment to an Asian or seafood dish. All the white wines were unoaked and all were from the 2008 vintage. My points for the whites were 16 (Trebbiano), 16 (Vermentino) and 16.5 (Ansonica).

The reds start with an unoaked Sangiovese (called their Rosso, from 2007) that was the essence of cherries – light, bright and refreshingly crisp (16.5 pts). Lorenzo plans to make a more sophisticated Sangiovese in the coming year or two, with oak treatment and greater extraction.

For now his flagship red is his syrah, and we tried the 2005. Having a palate accustomed to Shiraz, I was pleasantly surprised by the wine. It had plum and blackberry fruit characters that reminded me of moderate to warm climate shiraz from back home. Though without the leathery touches of a Hunter Shiraz, it had enough of an acid backbone to suggest it would only get better in the next 5-8 years. I liked it, and so too did Robert Parker. (18 pts).

The sweet wines were both made in the passito method. Grapes are left on the vine for as long as possible and then dried for an average of two weeks on wooden racks. The shriveled berries are then crushed – in the case of the Aleatico, fermented on its skins, and the Moscato, as per a white wine.

The fermentation is stopped at 15% to produce wines of sweetness yet complexity. The Moscato (2007) had its usual floral nose but a lovely dry finish. 18 pts. The Aleatico’s (2006) complexity derived from a floral spiciness undercut by chewy tannins and wonderful length. I imagine the Aleatico will live for many years yet. 18.5 pts.

The future looks bright for Cecilia. Vine age of the syrah vines is only 12 years so the best is yet to come. I called his establishment a “boutique winery” – it produces between 40,000 and 50,000 bottles annually, and the wines are of the highest order – Lorenzo seemed to like that. Brendan Jansen

A Visit to Terrabianca

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy by Brendan Jansen

Number One – July 2009

Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical ties to Italy. He also lists himself as the viticulturalist. The winemaker is Vittorio Fiore, a well-known and highly skilled oenologist from the region.

The company produces 350,000 bottles annually. The property consists of over 120 ha of land, comprising about 15 ha under vine and a significant olive tree plantation, at a level over 250m above sea level, in both Chianti, and Maremma, further south in Tuscany and closer to the ocean. Its name (Terrabianca) is derived from the whitish soils of the area in Chianti, which are due to the combination of sand, clay and chalk.

As we drove towards the property, we passed busloads of most likely British, German and American tourists visiting large establishments in the area. Francesco, my friend and point of entrée into the tasting, lamented that many of the larger wineries made lakes, if not oceans, of mediocre wine, assisted by the “Chianti” name, and feeding off the resurgence of interest in Italian wine. Viticulturally, grapes of moderate quality are turned into half decent wine by paid consultants, producing Chianti with an unexciting sameness.

Our arrival at Terrabianca coincided with the final stages of a tasting involving a visiting Brazilian importer. After they had left the full range of wines that Terrabianca produce was open and at our disposal. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are the major grape varieties grown, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano. We focused on reds at the tasting.

La Fonte – 2007. This is a 100% Sangiovese wine with 6 months of oak, from vineyards further south in Tuscany, outside the Chianti region, in Maremma, Grossetto. My notes say, “This has cherries and some savoury characters, good length and structure.” I can understand why this is their “house wine” – is a ripper. It has 13.5% alcohol, and I gave it 16.5 pts.

Scassino – 2007. (Chianti Classico) 97% Sangiovese with 3% Canaiolo. This has spent 8 months in oak. It is the quintessence of Chianti Classico, with cherries and some plum flavours. At 13% alcohol, it seemed a bigger wine than the La Fonte, but still an ideal match for spicy food and even fish. 17 pts

Croce – 2005. (Chianti Classico) DOCG Riserva. With the same grape combination as the Scassino, this has spent 15 months in oak, making it more mellow and softer. It was, however, a darker and denser wine with a greater dose of dark/stewed fruit. 17.5 pts

Campaccio – 2005. A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet component was immediately evident, with capsicum and cassis notes, but with a lovely meaty, savoury undertow. It has had 12 months of oak treatment, and needs time to allow the wonderful acid and structure to integrate. I loved this wine, and so did Robert Parker a few years ago. 18 pts

Campaccio “Selezione” Riserva – 2004. With a higher Cabernet component (50%) and 24 months of oak treatment, this was a wonderfully deep and unctuous wine with chewy tannins and again that savoury edge. It struck me that Italians do with Sangiovese what we in Australia do with Shiraz – fill the Cabernet ‘doughnut’ with dark fruit while clinging to the structure that Cabernet Sauvignon offers, to create their Super-Tuscans. This has a long life ahead of it. – 18.5 pts.

Cipresso – 2005. We moved on to an interesting set of wines. The first was another 100% Sangiovese wine but not labeled as Chianti Classico and therefore not a DOCG, but an IGT wine. Savoury notes were evident as were the plum, cherry and berry flavours. This time, some liquorice and fennel added to the spiciness. The mouth-feel was wonderful, and belied the commonly held belief that extraction is difficult with Sangiovese. This too has a long life ahead of it – if waiting is possible. 18.7 pts

Il Tesoro (Merlot) – 2005. This 100% Merlot was like few Australian Merlots I have tasted (barring perhaps the Three Hills Merlot from Happs). From their southerly and more maritime vineyards, the differences between day and night time temperatures have added to the acid and structure. The nougat and almond flavours probably derive from the oak treatment, and though not off putting, will further integrate with time. 18 pts

Ceppate – 2005. This is a Cabernet dominant wine (90%) with the rest being Merlot. This wine was closed and fruit flavours had to be coaxed out of it with heavy swirling and time. A classic Bordeaux style, with the addition of more perfume on the nose than I have been used to, this too demands time. 17.5 pts

We completed the tasting by sampling the extra virgin olive oil produced by Terrabianca – a classic Tuscan style – strong and peppery, with hints of citrus – to light up any salad or loaf of bread you would choose to have with it. What did I learn from the tasting? Firstly, Sangiovese, with its many (13 clones) is a versatile variety, and in the right hands, extraction to produce complex and powerful red wine is possible. (Sangiovese is known by many names – it is the Morellino from Scansano, the Brunello from Montepulciano, and even the Sagrantino from neighbouring Montefalco in Umbria is thought to be related).

Secondly, if I were an importer, this is the kind of producer I would deal with. Expert viticulture, modern winemaking facilities, great quality fruit, and every wine in the stable exceptional at its price point.

What is the cost of the wine? Well, in Italy, unlike Australia, wine is cheaper at the cantina or winery. So the wines ranged from 10 Euro for the La Croce, to 36 Euro for the Campaccio Riserva and the Ceppate. What did I buy? A dozen each of the Cipresso and the Campaccio – at 20 Euro a bottle.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

NB. My visit there was organized by my friend Francesco, who knows the current marketing manager of the establishment.