Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Moss Wood Lunch with the Mugfords

7th August 2009

Lamont’s Wine Store – Cottesloe

There are not many certainties in life besides death, taxes and stock market crashes. Another that can be added to the list is that year in – year out, Moss Wood make fantastic wines that are at the forefront of their style. I was reminded of this recently when a small group sat down to lunch with Keith and Clare Mugford, the proprietors of Moos Wood, at a recent tasting at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. The idea was to try the new releases and also see how some of the wines age.

Established in the late 1960’s by Bill and Sandra Pannell, Moss Wood’s first vintage was in 1973. Keith joined the wine making team for the 1979 vintage and the Mugfords ended up taking control of the winery and vineyards in the mid 1980’s. The rest, as they say, is history.

In 2000, the Mugfords bought Ribbon Vale winery and vineyards to supplement the Moss Wood portfolio. This allowed for the expansion of the portfolio of wine in a way that complemented existing wines. I have been interested to watch the development of the Ribbon Vale wines over the last 10 years. While there is more vintage variation apparent than in the Moss Wood cabernet, in years like 2005, the wines are excellent. (I am looking forward to the 2007’s when they are released).

Consistency is a key part of why the wines from Moss Wood are so highly regarded. In years like 2001 and 2005, the wines are truly outstanding, and the equal of any cabernet based wine in the world. In lesser years, the wines retain their style and character, but perhaps loose a bit of the power. The 2006 Cabernet is a case in point. This was not the best year for reds in Margaret River, but as you will see below, the cabernet is an elegant and refined wine of real quality.

My tip: Buy the best years to cellar for the long term, and buy the lighter years to drink while waiting for the best to mature. At 5 – 10 years old, these wines will provide wonderful drinking, and allow wines like the 2005 to stay tucked away for the long haul.

NB. I attended this tasting as a guest of Lamont’s

Tasted

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). Very cold. Starts quite lean but opens with almond meal nuttiness and grassy notes. The palate is complex, grassy and long. There is more almond meal and apricot on the close.

Moss Wood – Semillon – 2008 (17.7). Really lemony to open, with lanolin. The palate is viscous, even oily, with grassy fruit and a touch of phenolics to close. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5). Complex but quite closed, pineapple fruit. The palate is complex, with some smoky oak grip. There is some peach and melon fruit, with roast cashews to close. A touch broad on the finish that detracts slightly.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 1993 (18.5). Developed, ripe and complex with peachy fruit. The palate is complex with nutty/mushroomy developed characters and a touch of lanolin. Lemony acid freshens the finish. Very long and seamless finish. Remarkable wine

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.3). Fragrant, perfumed and elegant. Touch of lemon too. In the mouth this is complex, with herbs and sour cherry fruit. Grippy tannins to close. These wines really don’t show that well young, but hit their straps after about ten years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2005 (18.3+). Ripe and quite linear at the moment. Lots of red fruits with raspberries and red currants. Touch of plum too. The fruit characters continue on the palate accompanied by fine, dusty tannins. Silky oak to close. This will improve for many years.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2007 (18.5+). Riper fruit, with lifted cherries and plums. Whilst ripe, the palate has fine chalky tannins to close. Cherries and plums build, and the palate is seamless. Very long and very good. Tight now, so give it some air, or better still, keep it for 10 years+.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (18). Developed, earthy, leathery and very long. There is a touch of mint and spice too. This is a leaner style, reflected in the mint and dried herbs on the palate. A lovely mature wine.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2006 (18.5). Wow, lovely sweet ripe fruit that has real perfume. This is supple with a touch of earthiness. Cinnamon, cloves and leather add complexity. Silky tannins to close. A feminine wine.

New Release Cabernet

25 July 2009

A short sharp line up of wine here. The highlight was the bracket of cabernets from Xanadu. I believe that 2007 was the first vintage that was completely in control of the new owners, and what a difference it has made. The premium wines are very good, and the entry level Next Of Kin is very smart and excellent value.

Xanadu is now in the hands of the Rathbone family, who also own Yerring Station, Mt Langi Giran and Parker (Coonawara). Each of these wines represent the pinnacle of their respective regions, so I am not surprised that Xanadu showed so well. Their chardonnays are also good too. This is a winery to watch!

Tasted

Parker – First Growth – Cabernet– 2004 (18.4). Wow, this has lifted ripe fruit on the nose, and is dense, ripe and textured. Lovely mouth feel here and the fruit builds. There is black current and spice and the finish is very fine and long. This is a powerful wine with well integrated oak and a seamless finish

Xanadu – Limited release – Cabernet – 2007 (18+). Very closed right now. There is ripe cabernet fruit, with a touch of regional mintiness that is in balance. The palate is long and lean at the moment but there is plenty of fine ripe fruit underneath. Good acid to close. We drank this two nights later, and it was quire superb.

Plantaganet – Cabernet – 2007 (18). Dense and powerful fruit. Opens with sweet ripe fruit, cassis and spice. Vanillin oak well integrated The palate has a touch of herbs and a long drying finish. Excellent fruit and quality wine making. This was a delight two days later.

Parker – Terra Rossa – Cabernet – 2004 (17.9). Classic cabernet nose with cassis and a touch of brioche on the nose. The palate has ripe fruit that is quite succulent. There is very good line and length, and the very fine tannins add to the finish. Fine oak grip to close. This is a dense and powerful wine that will age for many years.

Xanadu – Cabernet – 2007 (17.8). Complex but closed to start. The palate has dense ripe fruit that is complex. There is some tobacco leaf to close. Cedary oak is apparent on the long, fine finish. Velvety tannins to close. Well Made.

Xanadu – Next of Kin – Cabernet – 2007 (17.5). Seductive, ripe and succulent nose. The palate has blackcurrant fruit and is fleshy. Good fruit, fine acid and enough oak and tannin grip to add balance. Fruit builds and chalky tannins to close. Tarry and brambly fruit. This is good stuff and should be great value.

Cape Mentelle – Trinders – Cabernet Merlot– 2007 (17). Dense, ripe and full. Some blackcurrant fruit with touch of herbs. The palate has good quality fruit that builds. Lacks mid palate density and weight right now. Gritty tannins and solid oak to close. Will be better in a couple of years.

Forest Hill – Cabernet – 2007 (17). Closed right now and hard to assess. Quality fruit and wine making.

Capel Vale – Margaret River – Cabernet – 2007 (16.8). Seductive nose. There is ripe, quality fruit that is quite long and plummy. Opens. Not my style as there is a touch of green and bay leaf to close.

Windance – Reserve – Cabernet – 2007 (16.7). Sweet fruit with a touch of candy. Candied fruit continues on the palate. Atypical. The wine is actually long and textured. I should look at this again.

Reynella – Basket Press – Cabernet – 2005 (?16.5). I struggled with this wine as it was so closed. It starts quite austere, but has ripe cooler fruit. The finish is tight and lean. I would like to see this wine again .

Scalawag – Cabernet Merlot – 2007 (15.7)

Cullen’s Cabernet Vertical Tasting

Hosted by Vanya Cullen

2 July 2009

I was lucky enough to score a seat at this tasting run by Lamont’s in Cottesloe. Vanya Cullen gave us an insight into the wines, and importantly, an overview of the winery’s move to Organic from 1998 and Biodynamic from 2004. We tried 10 vintages of the Cabernet Merlot (now called Diana Madeline) from 1998 to 2007.

To say that Vanya is passionate about the Cullen’s winery and about Biodynamics is an understatement. She lives and breaths both. Her convictions about the benefits of biodynamics stems as much from the principals involved as it does from the benefits that the winery has seen in the vineyard. A healthier vineyard means healthier/better quality fruit. Whilst I don’t quite get the cow horns etc, the aim of a healthier vineyard is obvious (I am a big fan of organic).

Whether or not you full embrace biodynamics or not does not matter though. The real issue is the quality of the wines. Looking at the 10 wines, there was a clear change in the wines from 2004 on. The wines seamed to have great vibrancy of fruit, and also be more approachable early in their live. An unexpected but welcomed benefit has come in the way of the level of alcohol in the wines. Vanya has found that tannin ripeness is occurring as early as 11 Baume, which allows a less alcoholic wine as a result. The effect of this is to allow for a more delicate wine where the fruit can really shine.

If I had to use one word to describe these wines, it would be “elegance”. The standout wines were (in order) the 2005, 2001, 2007 &1998, with all four having supporters for wine of the night. The 04 and 99 were close behind. This tasting re-affirms Cullen’s position as a producer of one of the finest cabernets in Australia and the world.

Thanks to Lamont’s for putting this tasting on (I was there as a guest of JJ). The wines were not tasted blind.

Reviews

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2007 (18.5). Complex creamy but still tight. Almond meal nuttiness and minerals. The palate mirrors the nose, but also has some grape fruit and citrusy acid. Very tight but seamless. This is the best Cullen chardonnay I have tried.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 1998 (18.5) Remarkable. The wine is still bright and shows fresh fruit. There is also some developed characters and earthiness. Complex nose on this. The structure of the palate is fantastic. Textured and fine with black current fruit. The velvety tannins are still evident. A lovely drink. Drink anytime over the next 10 years +.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 1999 (18.4). Still showing vibrant fruit, with earthy characters developing and a hint of meatiness. The palate is still showing juicy, ripe and vibrant fruit. The finish is complemented by fine tannins. Developing some secondary earthy characters on the nose. Very long.(Second bottle as first bottle corked)

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2000 (17.5). Fresher and more closed and structured. Shows a touch of licorice long with blackcurrant fruit and a touch of spice. Tannins are still evident on the finish. May soften with time.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2001 (18.7). Closed and subtle, but develops a lovely perfume to go along with blackcurrant fruit. The palate is elegant, but very powerful. Some licorice and spice, though this is all about structure and depth of fruit at present. A great wine with a long future for the patient.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2002 (17.9). A delicate refined wine with lovely balance and perfume. The palate has lighter fruit weight than some here, the maintains the fine structure and silky tannins that these wines are renowned for. Some chocolate to close.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2003 (17.5-18). Hard to work this wine out. It is showing cooler fruit characters with a touch of menthol. The palate is tight and closed and characterised by chalky tannins. Could go either way.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2004 (18.5). Ripe and dense, with re fruits and menthol on the nose. The palate is ripe, rich and dense, yet retains the hallmark elegance of the range. The finish is fine and very long, and the wine really builds with time. Subtle oak and fine tannins round out the finish. An excellent wine with a long future

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2005 (18.8+). Silky, ripe and complex. Wonderfully complex nose, with ripe blackcurrant fruit. The palate has exceptional fruit. It is oh so long, supple and textured. Very fine tannins are firm and the oak provides support. The structure is a highlight. For all of this, it still manages to retain its elegance. This wine is superb, though it requires years to show it absolute best. A superstar.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.5). A fruit forward style with nice perfume. Lacks the structure of the very best, but is a good drink all the same.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (18.7). Closed and just a touch dusty at the moment. THe fruit is very ripe here, with blackcurrant, forest fruits and a touch of aniseed. The finish is long, dense and really fine. The tannins are very fine indeed. Still retains elegance. Destined to be a great wine.

Bordeaux versus Margaret River

28th June 2009

The aim of this tasting was to compare wines from Bordeaux and Margaret River. It is my view that Margaret River region produces the best new world cabernets and in quality terms, the wines can match the best of Bordeaux. All wines were served blind and in pairs. The wines were matched for vintage, and with the odd exception (sorry guys), there was one from each region.

Style wise, the wines from Bordeaux wines were characterised by their firmer (but fine) tannins. The New World wines tended to have slightly riper fruit characters, but this was not uniform. The tasting highlighted the quality of wines from both regions, but also serves to highlight the much better value that the Australian wines offer. With the best Margaret River wines nudging $100, they represent better buying than the best bordeaux’s (the 2008 indents are charging $400 – $500 for 1st Growths).

Myles emphasized that our palates get used to certain styles of wines. This is very true, and people who only drink big Australian Reds would find some of these wines challenging. Preferences were spread across the group, with no real tendency towards one style or the other.

Thanks to Norbert and Kerry Fandry for hosting this tasting and dinner.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Cabernet – 1982. (17.5) Colour still bright with an orange rim. The nose is soft, fragrant and perfumed. There is a touch on mint and menthol, but the wine is balanced and smooth. The palate is fine, long and silky. The fruit is fading, and the tannins are soft but present.

Chateau Branaire Duluc-Ducru – Bordeaux – 1982 (18.5). Colour still bright with an orange rim. Leads with earthy characters. This is a complex wine. Opens up with air to reveal some lovely perfumed fruit. The complex palate still has bright fresh fruit characters. It is very long and fine, with some cedar/cigar box to close. Lovely

Phelan Segur – Bordeaux – 1994. (Corked)

Penfolds – Bin 407 – Cabernet – 1994 (18). Mint and menthol to open, but rich fruit develops with air. The palate is long, bright and earthy. Serious complexity. The finish is round soft and succulent. Very good

Chateau Soutard – St Emillion – 2001 (18.5). Complex nose with typical cool fruit characters. The palate is complex, deep, long and fine. The tannins shut down the fruit still. Chocolate to close (5yrs)

Arboleda – Merlot – 2001 (17). Unusual nose of dried herbs. Continues on the palate, but is swamped by sweet fruit with chocolate overtones. textured and long. The palate is better than the nose.

Vasse Felix – Heytsbury – Cabernet – 1997 (18+). Wow, powerful fruit. Dense, ripe with a touch of menthol.The powerful palate is full of chocolate fruit that is long and layered. There is some licorice to close. There was a question over whether the tannins would outlast the fruit. Drink up and lets not find out.

Chateau Lagrange – Pomerol – 2005 (17). Mint and cassis on the nose. The palate is lean right now with pronounced drying tannins. May evolve.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet – 2002 (18.7). Complex, earthy with a touch of classic Margaret River Mortem. This wine is all about the superb structure and texture on the palate. There is minty fruit, but this wine will need 10 years to show its best.

Chateau Branaire Duluc-Ducru – Bordeaux – 2002 (18.5). Tight and long with a touch of cassis. The palate is fine and tight, though the tannins shut down the finish. Will be very good. (10 years)

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Merlot – 2004 (18.3). Powerful. Ripe and succulent fruit with a touch of mint, tobacco and complex earthiness. Lots of ripe cassis on the palate with a silky textured finish. A bit of a fruit bomb, so will appeal to many.

Chateau du Pez – St Estephe – 2004 (18). A complex wine with a touch of herbal/menthol fruit. A touch of mocha and meaty characters too. The palate is complex and surprisingly ripe. The finish is fine and silky. An elegant wine that needs a few years to open up.

Leoville Poyferre – St Julien – 1995. (18). Earthy fruit with chocolate and coffee notes. The palate is long and silky, with complex earthy fruit. Tannins remain firm.

Devils Lair – Cabernet – 1995 (17.5). Cooler style with minty fruit. Develops chocolate fruit as it opens. The palate is a touch lean and drying.

Rauzan Segla – Bordeaux – 1994. (17.5). Complex, ripe and earthy. The palate shows cassis, lanolin and earthy notes. The mid palate fruit is flattened by drying, dusty tannins.

Pierro – Cabernet Blend – 1994 (18). Both Chocolate and mocha on the nose. The palate displays cassis fruit, with a touch of mint and menthol. Ripe fruit, good texture and viscous. Drinking well

Stony Ridge – Waiheke Island – Cabernet – 1996 (17.9). Gorgeous nose. This displays ripe powerful fruit with a touch of herbal complexity. The palate is complex, and powerful with tobacco and menthol.

Les Forts de La Tour – Bordeaux – 1996 (18+). Leathery, complex and earthy. The palate is big, rich and ripe. Very long with leathery edges to the black fruit.

20 Great Australian Cabernets

28th May 2009

This tasting was put together to highlight the quality of Australian cabernet based wines. The overall consistency of the wines was a feature. Whilst most of these wines retail for between $50 and $150 per bottle, in world terms, they represent outstanding value when compared to their peers from Bordeaux and California.

Vintage variation appears to translate into the wine styles, with the less years producing wines with more primary red fruit and lighter palates. These wines will make excellent drinking in the short to medium term. The best wines showed depth of flavour characterised by ripe blackberry/blackcurrant fruit combined with very sensible use of high quality oak

Houghton’s has been producing some outstanding wines over the last 5 years, and the wines here reinforce the quality of their wines. Importantly, besides the Gladstone and the Jack Mann, Houghton’s was also responsible for producing the Thomas Hardy, which was in 2004 (and some other recent vintages) 100% Margaret River. The current Wisdom range is outstanding in both absolute quality terms and for value.

Houghton’s – Gladstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003

Still closed. Beautiful wine with a blend of both red and black fruit. A wine of great power that still retains great balance and fine structure. The palate is seamless and possesses outstanding length. A great wine (18.8)

Majella – The Malleea – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005

A very serious wine. Intense fruit with cigar box, leather and a touch of herbs on the nose. The palate is powerful and intense. The fruit has soaked up the oak beautifully. A magical wine (18.6+)

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005

A star of the tasting. A profound wine showing dense ripe fruit. Cedary oak was apparent on the nose. On the palate, the fruit really opened up. Blackcurrant and red fruits that are both dense and ripe. very long, with very fine chalky tannins. Beautifully balanced, the finish is silky and oh so long. Very Fine. Tasted twice with consistent notes (18.6)

Thomas Hardy – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004

Ripe fruit on the nose. quite a feminine style of wine. red fruits to the fore. Very refined palate with great length. Refined tannins and oak. Seamless (18.6)

Penfolds – Bin 707 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005

Solid dark fruits on the nose. Great fruit on the palate. This is a big wine with lots of cassis Very high quality oak, and very fine finish. Obviously different in style to the WA wines. Needs 15 years to show its best (18.5)

Pierro – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004

Another lovely wine showing red and black currant fruit in a lighter style. There is a touch of menthol, plum and cinnamon to close. quite seamless, this fine tightly knit wine will improve for several years. (18.4)

Houghton’s – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2002

Closed and shy at present. lovely fruit and palate feel. acid still fresh. A very good wine from a lighter year. Cork (18.2)

Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005

Very closed. A riper style with some cool fruit characters. Very well made, and builds in the mouth. May get better. (18)

Woodside Valley Estate – Baudin – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007

Minty fruition a leaner more elegant style. Comes to life on the palate with powerful ripe fruit. Long and silky with drying tannins. Lacks the ultimate fruit density of the best. (18)

Balnaves – The Tally – 2006

Two bottles tried with some variation. Has underlying cool fruit with some eucalypt and black currant fruit. A rich wine with plenty of grip, but tannins are fine. Oak evident at present. Should settle down. Pro Cork (17 – 18pts)

Evans and Tate – The Reserve– Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005

Very Closed at the moment. The wine is quite lean at present, but has some lovely red fruits. Builds with time and has a long finish. Will receive higher points in time (17.7/18.3)

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon -2006

A lighter style with primary red fruits. Tasted twice with inconsistent notes (18 and 17)

Cullen – Diana Madeline – 2007

Elegant, ripe and seductive. Red fruits to the for with a silky finish (17.5)

Grenache Master Class

Reviewed: 5 April 2013

Following on from the recent grenache discoveries I wrote up last week, I was very pleased to attend a grenache tasting held by a local wine group. Grenache is a variety that is commonly blended with other varieties (typically shiraz), so straight grenache based wines can be overlooked as a source of fine wines. Confusingly, where it is produced can affect what it is called. In France and Australia, it is referred to as grenache, whereas in Spain, it is typically referred to as garnacha.

This tasting looked at grenache based wines and grenache blends, looking at how different countries and regions handle the fruit, as well as how well the wines can age. After all, it is not only the climate that effects the finished wine, it is how it is treated in the winery. A few wines did not make it to these pages as there was considered to be an unacceptable degree of Brettanomycis evident. In small amounts, this can add complexity, but in large amounts, it can make the wine smell like a barnyard.

Reviewed

Baltasar – Garnacha – Gracians – Vinas Viejas – 2003 (17.5). Ripe, fragrant fruit that combines red fruit characters with cherry and a touch of tar. At 10 years of age, this is still quite dense and chewy. The palate has excellent length and mouth-feel. Great now, but may still improve.

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone – 1995 (17.5). Remarkable wine in that this is made in very large quantities, is relatively inexpensive and has aged superbly over its 18 year life. On the nose, there is still a degree of ripe fruit, but with a lovely savoury lift adding complexity. There is obvious age on the palate, with earthy characters, forest floor and supple, though savoury tannins. A complete drink now.

La Bruja Averia – Grenache – 2011 (17.5). Pretty, spicy grenache fruit with bright red berries. The palate has cherry, tar, spice and red fruits and a finish that is long, supple and savoury. Lovely balance, with souring acidity that cuts through to the finish leaving the palate refreshed. From Madrid!

The Willows – Grenache – 2010 (17). An interesting wine that shows mint and eucalyptus over herbal notes. With air, the floral fruit really comes through with soft, textured tannins driving the finish. There is good length of flavours on the close.

La Fiole – Cotes du Rhone – 2010 (17.3). I liked this wine. There was a surprising level of density to the fruit and even some fresh oak characters in a balanced package. The palate on this gets really floral and perfumed, while the fine tannins make their presence felt on a finish that is drying and textured. Really needs food to shine.

Clos Des Papes – Châteauneuf du Pape – 2004 (17.5). Sweet fruit on the nose with a lovely savoury lick that imparts gentle spice to the wine. The palate is textured, chewy and long, with a degree of fleshy fruit and a savoury edge. Excellent length and persistence.

Cirello – Grenache – 1850 – 2006 (18+). The adjectives flowed in my tasting notes for this wine. Dense, textured, long, chewy, savoury and earthy. Tremendous length and latent power to the fruit. Superb quality fruit has been matched to quality oak, the old bush vines providing real concentration and penetration, especially on the palate. Bravo. (From the Barossa).

Roger Sabon – Châteauneuf du Pape – Cuvee Prestige – 2000 (17.5). This has dense fruit, with attractive, savoury complexity. The palate is long and supple, yet there are chewy textural components on the finish. Robust fruit, but with a degree of finesse.

Clos Mogador – Grenache – 1997 (18). A beautiful wine that has delicious ripe fruit. Supple and juicy sweet fruit leads on to chewy, texturing tannins and quality oak. From Priorat.

Rayas – Châteauneuf du Pape – Pignan – 1998 (17.8). Really showing its age, the wine is silky, supple, long and quite seamless. Really needs food to complement the less obvious fruit characters.

Charles Melton – Grenache – 1997 (17.5). Much fresher than the Rayas, with dense, ripe fruit that has chocolate overtones. The palate is defined by floral fruit, that is supple and long. This is balanced by lovely pepper and cedar spice characters.