Category Archives: Cabernet – Wine Reviews

Cool Climate Cabernet

Last Sunday Tasting

11 February 2010

Non French, cool climate cabernet was the theme for our last Sunday tasting group. The topic itself generated quite a bit of discussion as to what cool climate referred to. We mainly went for wines from cooler sub-regions of the more recognised cabernet producing areas.

Overall, the quality of the wines was excellent and the wine of the tasting was the Larose from Stonyridge. A more complete wine you could not hope to taste. As always, the vagaries of cork played a role, with some potentially excellent wines not being reviewed due to questions around taint. Both the warm up whites were enjoyable, though the Vouvray had a surprising amount of residual sugar for a “sec”.

A special thanks to Eva for the excellent meal!

Reviewed

Stonyridge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Larose – Waiheke Vineyard – 2000 (18.5). Dense and inky colour. Fantastic nose with a touch of sea salt, blackcurrant and spice. Silky, vibrant and oh so long. Textured and very fine tannins. Touch of smoky oak on the finish.

Ridge – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Santa Cruz Mountains – 1996 (18.3). Silky and seamless, this is a lovely wine. The nose is mature and seductive, while the palate has lovely texture and a silky mouth-feel. Long and feminine.

Silver Oak – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alexander Valley – 1992 (18.2). Some earthy and meaty notes with lift and a touch smoky oak. Dense and vibrant fruit on the palate. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. There is a touch of vanillin oak on the very long palate. Complex and fully mature.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petite Verdot/Cabernet Franc – Harry’s Monster (18). Dense and powerful wine with licorice and allspice on the nose. The palate is a revelation. The fruit is still youthful but there is enough development and complexity to make for good drinking. Complete wine with balance and elegance.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003 (18). Classic nose. Powerful herbal and menthol notes with ripe blackcurrant in the background. Firm palate but ripe fruit tannins. Impressive.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1997 (17.8). Developed nose. Silky and sexy. There are some mint and eucalypt notes. Not as dense in the middle palate but complex and long. Lovely drink.

Bannockburn – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1991 (17.7+). A touch of earth pong on the nose. Leathery and supple on the palate, this is very long with blackcurrant and cinnamon. Mature, earthy and complete.

Rieussec – Semillon blend – R – 2007 (17.5). A dry white wine from this famous Sauterne producer. This is a complex wine that has had plenty of wine-maker’s inputs. There is peach and melon on the nose from the fruit and oak. The palate is textured, creamy and quite long. Oak still evident but there is also a lovely minerality. Needs time to open.

Wynn’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – (Black Label) – 1994. (17.5). Very youthful and firm. May evolve.

Domaine Huet – Vouvray – La Mont – Sec – 2007 (17.4). Slightly oily, this is viscous and aromatic with floral notes. The palate is round and complex with enough residual sugar to be noticeable. Lovely mouth-feel. (A touch sweet for a “sec” but delicious all the same).

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 1991 (17.3). Leather and spice. Some menthol and cloves. The palate is dense and taught with a touch of blackcurrant. A meaty wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (17). Sweet fruit nose with leather and briar. Aged and textured with savoury fruit. Mature but the finish remains firm.

Delatite – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – RJ – 1998 (16.8). Peppermint and cloves. Sweet fruit, but very drying finish.

Ridge – Santa Cruz Mountains – 2004 (16.5). Vibrant hue. Wow. Intense but youthful and firm. Tannins are ripe but dominant. Some herbal and capsicum fruit on the palate with a touch of sweet and sour sauce. Will probably get much better in a few years.

Cabernet – New Release

12 January 2011

The middle of summer is not the most obvious time to hold a cabernet tasting, so it was fortunate that the tasting room was air-conditioned. It was the temperature of the wine that received the most discussion however.

All wines in this tasting were served at 19 degrees C, a temperature that I think is ideal to serve red wines. One panellist felt that the wines were too cold to allow the fruit to be expressed properly. This is a thorny issue that comes down to personal preference. It is easier to warm a wine in the glass than to cool it down.

So to the wines… As you would expect, the Devils Lair was impressive and the Deepwoods – Reserve continues to impress. The surprise for me was the Timber Creek. An impressive wine by any standard.

Tasted

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.3). Intense and dense varietal fruit on the nose with blackcurrant, cinnamon, menthol and a touch of cedary oak. Fantastic quality fruit and wine-making. The oak is a touch forward now, but the silky ripe fruit will build with time in the bottle. Very modern, this really has everything.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely fragrant cabernet fruit on the nose. There is menthol, blackcurrant and cedar. The palate is soft, round, generous and extraordinarily fine and long. This is a very classy wine. Silky and seamless palate that really builds, the line and length are spot on.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Winemakers Selection – 2008 (18+). Another impressive wine, but not as overt as some here. Chocolate fruit suggests a warmer region. The fruit is more to the plum spectrum. The palate is solid, dense and tight, with licorice to close. A very well made wine with good texture and mouth-feel. Should have received a gold medal as this is a seriously goof wine, but it did not scream classic cabernet.

Timber Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Dense and powerful cabernet fruit on the nose. Mint, menthol, cedar, spice and eucalypt. Ripe fruit and quality wine-making. A fine wine that is good drinking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2008 (17.7). Another quality wine with ribena and plum fruit on the nose. This is in a different style reflecting Barossa fruit. A touch more astringent than the others here courtesy of the oak that is yet to fully integrate. Menthol and mocha on the finish, this has excellent mouth-feel and will develop for many years.

Aldersyde – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). Peppermint characters to the fore, typical of Coonawarra with a touch of herbal notes. Touch of insect spray and quality fruit. More of the same on the palate, with a dense, powerful finish that is very long. Excellent mouth-feel and intensity.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Dense and closed. This has dark fruits with a hint of chocolate and even licorice. Very silky and round, the high quality fruit and wine-making are immediately obvious.

Rymill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). The nose has a touch of chocolate and spice to open. The fruit on the palate is very dense and impenetrable The tannins from the oak and fruit shut down the fruit leaving a very chalky finish. This is a powerful, high quality wine that needs years to shine, though it is a different style to the wines from Margaret River.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Lovely ripe aromas of blackcurrant with some menthol and mint running through the nose. Soft, generous and silky palate, with very fine and dusty tannins providing grip on the finish. Satisfying medium bodied wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004 (17.5). Somewhat developed and dusty nose. Some blackcurrant and a hint of cassis. Quite soft and generous. The palate is rich and dense with a touch of chocolate to the fruit. Long and satisfying bottle age complexity makes this a standout. A dark berry plus herbaceous.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2009 (17.2). Quite dumb on the nose to start. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit that is neither heavy or cloying. The wine is more medium bodied, with oak only in the background. Well made, accessible and excellent value.

Palmer – Shiraz – 2003 (17). Rich wine, with more chocolate and dark fruits. The palate has coffee, mocha and spice. Satisfying without being overly complex. A sound wine that is developing nicely.

Madbay – Shiraz – 2008 (16.9). Fresh, almost purple hue. The nose is an intriguing blend of ripe cherries and red berries with a lovely savoury, almost sappy undertone. Fresh and juicy plum and cherry on the palate, this is great drinking. (Made by Howard Park/Madfish).

 

Bordeaux 2006

A Boot-full of Wine Tasting Notes from Italy (and beyond!)

Brendan Jansen

8 February 2011

Just off the plane from London and the Institute of Masters of Wine Annual Claret Tasting of the 2006 vintage, I thought I would pen my thoughts while they are still fresh.

The Annual Claret Tasting has a long history and dates back to when the IMW was the Vintners’ Company, one of twelve Great City of London Livery Companies. It is held annually in Vintners’ Hall, a wonderful venue worth a visit in its own right if you are ever in London.

The 2006 vintage in Bordeaux was a difficult one, and was always going to struggle in the shadow of the stellar 2005 vintage. In summary, bud break was late and flowering affected by coulure (failure of fruit set). April frosts were followed by variable temperatures over summer, with June/July being very warm and August very cool, but worryingly, also damp. The heat returned in September, and then heavy rain hit in mid September. Dry conditions then returned till harvest in October.

Therefore, there was some water stress to contend with (which, with the earlier frost damage, reduced yields), fluctuating temperatures (the cool August led to uneven ripeness), the risk of dilution due to the rain near harvest, and for some, the risk of rot. The last concern was compounded by the fact that many did not spray for rot given the warm July, and no leaf thinning (or green harvesting, which usually go hand in hand) was done due to the smaller yields and earlier heat. These conditions produced a real test of terroir.

In terms of soil types, and in particular relating to water delivery to the vine, the current state of thinking is that the quality of soils relate to their ability to deliver a modest level of water even in dry conditions, yet be free draining enough not to be affected by too much water in times of excess.

So in the best sites, 2006 has the potential to be a great year. In other areas, there might be dilution effects due to the rain, or lack of phenolic ripeness in those forced to pick early and quickly due to the risk of rot, with Merlot particularly at risk.

Though there were 96 wines at the tasting, and I got through 45 of them, I will not outline tasting notes for all of them – that would be just too boring! I thought instead I would outline my approach to the tasting, and share some of my discoveries.

On to the tasting….

So, here we were, in this beautiful, grand setting, in a Hall filled with Masters of Wine, who know Bordeaux like the back of their hand. Where to start?

The tables were laid out thus – one table for the slightly more southerly regions of Pessac/Graves, Haut Medoc and Margaux, another for the northerly St Julien, Pauillac, St Estéphe and Médoc, a third table for right bank St Emilion and Pomerol, and finally, a (small) table for (5) First Growths.

This is what I decided to do – taste 5 or 6 examples from each region, looking for similarities and differences. I would then try 5 or 6 from another region. I paid special attention to the potential differences between left and right banks, ie Cabernet Sauvignon vs Merlot dominant wines, using two glasses to taste representative samples of each at the same time.

For the First Growths, I decided to try a good producer from the exact same region (where I could, a Second Growth) and then try the relevant First Growth, again, in a pair.

What did I learn from the tasting? Well, there are some very smart 2006 Clarets out there. But there certainly are a few that show the dilution effect mentioned above. Some were very sulphurous on the nose, possibly indicative of the late need to spray on several occasions for rot, though I cannot be certain of this.

Some wines showed incredibly high levels of alcohol – 14% – reflective of warm conditions during parts of the growing season. Perhaps the earlier ripening Merlot based wines were more likely to show this tendency to a greater extent, if not picked early to avoid problems with rot.

Quality variability was at times striking, though most striking when the First Growths were compared against ‘lesser’ counterparts. They inevitably showed more power, more length, more complexity, more finesse, or indeed a combination of all of these.

Let me share just one example. On tasting the Château Lafite-Rothschild, I found it initially closed and rather austere and angular. Certainly there was less of the powerful fruit than the Mouton-Rothschild. It had nonetheless good complexity, and the essence of Cabernet fruit, with tomato leaf notes, cassis fruit, and firm tannins. Though not exactly underwhelmed, I wondered about what all the fuss was about. Then, as is my usual practice at tastings, I waited for the flavours to dissipate so that I could move on to another wine…. I waited and waited… I cannot remember when I have had to wait as long – the persistence of flavours was amazing!

The art and science of distinguishing between Left and Right bank wines is a real mug’s game. Cabernet and Merlot are not as distinctive in Bordeaux as they are in Australia. However, I came to the conclusion that palate weight rather than structure of the tannins was more helpful for me.

As for the distinguishing features of each region (like telling a St Julien and a Pauillac apart), I found picking them even more difficult.

Quality based on the classification system too is difficult to gauge. The Cru Bourgeois Château Chasse Spleen being the most obvious example.

Here are a few of the 2006 Bordeaux wines that caught my eye:

Reviewed

Pessac-Léognan/Graves

Château Brown (17.25). Mocha notes to start, with blackcurrant fruit breaking through on the subdued palate – clearly needs time.

Haut-Médoc

Château Belgrave – 5éme Cru Classé (17). Tomato leaf and capsicum on the nose, herbaceousness on the palate without being too ‘green’. Blackcurrant fruit, the essence of cabernet.

Margaux

Chateau Lascombes – 2éme Cru Classé (17.5). Deep and dense, great “line” (to borrow Len Evans’ term, which I mean to imply lip to throat flavour presence) despite predominant Cabernet fruit.

Château Rauzan-Gassies – 2éme Cru Classé (17.25). A bit sulphurous to start, but soon blew off. Delicate (in this case in keeping with the reputation of Margaux), and good structure.

Château Rauzan-Ségla – 2éme Cru Classé (17.25). Perfumed nose (again, in keeping with Margaux), rich with cassis, evident also on the palate. Lovely mouthfeel.

Moulis

Château Chasse-Spleen (17.25). Capsicum and blackcurrant nose and palate with firm but not overwhelming tannins. A beautiful mid weight Cabernet dominant wine that still needs time.

Saint-Julien

Château Gruaud-Larose – 2éme Cru Classé (17.75). Well proportioned wine with leafy Cabernet notes and enticing spicy complexity. Elegant mouthfeel.

Saint-Emilion

Chateâu Pavie-Decesse – Grand Cru Classé (18). Big nose of coffee and dark red fruit. Menthol hints add complexity to a bold palate, ripe tannic grip.

Chateâu Trottevielle – Premier Grand Cru Classé (17.75). Again, coffee evident on the nose. Rich full palate of currant fruit.

Château Figeac – Premier Grand Cru Classé (17.75). Strong Cabernet – perhaps Franc – notes without being ‘green’, fresh and lightly tannic.

Pomerol

Château Clinet (17.75). Inviting nose of rich redcurrant, kirsch and plum fruit, with a lovely round palate.

Château Gazin (17.75). Less ‘heavy’ than the Clinet, with a menthol, even eucalypt lift, to a cassis driven palate, very persistent.

CONCLUSION

The vintage was thought to be at its best in Saint Julien and Pauillac (not represented above – perhaps I just chose the wrong examples to taste in the limited time available) and in the free-draining gravel slopes of Saint Emilion and Pomerol (better represented by wines that created an impression on my palate above).

For the record, all the First Growths scored gold medal points, each impressing for various reasons – the Haut-Brion for its complexity, the Margaux for its power and length, the Lafite for its modesty yet persistence, the Mouton for its incredible depth, and the Cheval Blanc for its ballet of flavours on the palate that just went on and on….

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Cabernet and Bordeaux Varietals

10 November 2010

It has been interesting to watch the development of the cabernet sauvignon/merlot blends over the last few years. There has been a real move to making these more accessible as compared to the straight cabernets from the same wineries. (Of course there are exceptions like Cullens etc).

A solid selection of wines on show here. The top four wines are all worthy of attention, and all could have scored higher on a different day. From a value/quality balance, the Ferngrove comes out on top. An excellent wine. In the medium term, the Forester will probably emerge on top for quality.

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2008 (18.1+). Concentrated fruit. This has a real density to the fruit on the nose. There is sweet cabernet fruit on the palate, with blackcurrant, cedary oak and quite silky tannins. Quality fruit, excellent length and mouth-feel make for an excellent wine.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Classic Margaret River fruit with cedar, eucalypt and menthol overlaying blackcurrant and earthy fruit notes. The palate continues the theme, and is amazingly seamless. This is only medium bodied, but has plenty of fruit intensity typical of a cooler area.

Juniper Crossing – Merlot – 2008 (17.9). Perfumed and more elegant in style, this has instant appeal. Soft, plumy fruit with black cherry and savoury overtones. Excellent length and texture, this is a stylish wine. Will develop well in the medium term.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.8+). Fresher than some here and with an appealing nose. The palate is dense yet fine, elegant yet structured. The tannins (fruit and oak) are supple and silky and the length impressive. Do not underestimate this wine.

Boston Bay – Merlot – 2008 (17.6). More fragrant, yet firm and structured. Cherry, plum and spice, followed by dusty tannins and some vanillin oak tones. This is a powerful wine that has the structure needed to cellar for many years, but will the balance remain? Perhaps best to enjoy this over the next 5 years.

Chateau Laroque – St Emillion – Grand Cru – 2001 (17.6). Starting to brown on the edge. Much more dense and closed. Elegant style that is pretty and well balanced. Just starting to get some savoury, aged characters and the length is good. Very good, but slightly rustic (one panellist marked it down for the rustic notes).

White Dog Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.4). Vibrant and lifted fruit on the nose. Plum, herbs and a touch of eucalypt/menthol all apparent. Juicy, plump and generous, this is very drinkable, yet there is enough structure via fine oak and tannins to live on. Firm finish.

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2008. (17.3). Slightly sweet and sour with some firm notes over the top. Somewhat firm and sturdy. Dense fruit, typical of malbec. Well made with good use of oak and good balance. Strong support from the rest of the panel.

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Horseshoe Row – 2008. (17.3). Pretty and forward nose with lovely red fruits and a touch of cherry. Cherry, spice and cinnamon all vie for attention on a straightforward and uncomplicated palate. Good support from all, but the bottle is very low rent!

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon – Chapter 3 – 2008 (17.3). Quite closed, but showing nice balance. There is a touch of licorice to the palate, yet the oak and tannins (very fine) subdue the fruit. A good wine that needs a few years to perform at its best. (I will be interested to see if a famous champagne house complains about the label colour!)

Castea – Merlot – Cotes de Castillon – 2004 (17). Lovely brick red, this has dusty notes to the fruit. Touch of earth, plum and leather lend with more primary fruit characters. Mature palate that while not generous, is balanced and satisfying.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River Versus Great Southern

The Hyatt Cup

1 November 2010

Passionate …

When it comes to passion and wine, there is John Jens and then there is everyone else. John’s belief that Western Australia produces Australia’s best cabernet based wines is well documented. John’s support of the industry is quite selfless.

The Hyatt Cup is a classic example. In an effort to highlight the quality of WA wines, John teamed up with the Hyatt to arrange a tasting of 16 of the best Cabernets from Margaret River and the Great Southern to see if one region was clearly superior. The results were spectacular. 20 glasses of wine pre-poured in front of each of the 65 guests. The first eight were from the 2004/2005 vintages and the last twelve from the 2008 vintage.

2004 was a very good year in the Great Southern, and 2005 was very good for Margaret River. 2008 was an excellent Margaret River Vintage. Rob Mann from Cape Mentelle describes the wines as having a clarity of fruit and vibrancy. John Durham (winemaker at Plantaganet) felt southern Margaret River showed better than northern in 2008, whilst the Great Southern was probably better for shiraz than cabernet that year due to the coolness of the vintage.

So which was better? The wines from the Great Southern showed a generosity of fruit that made them more seductive, whilst the Margaret River wines tended to have more structure. When it came to preferences, the room was evenly split. My picks included the Hardy’s, Woodlands, Vasse Felix and 2004 Jack Mann. In reality, most of the wines here were superb, and worthy of inclusion in this fascinating exercise.

So a big thanks to John for putting together an amazing showcase of WA wines. All of this from a Collingwood supporter who hails from Victoria!

Thanks should also go to the Hyatt for their generous support of the event.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2004 (17.5). Some mint to the cherry and red fruits on the nose. Dusty cabernet fruit with the first signs of development. Really opens up to show blackcurrant fruit. Leather and spice to open, and gentle red fruits. The tannins are still firm and hold the finish together really well. Good drinking

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2004 (18.4). Really perfumed nose with redcurrant, cherries and violets. Lovely red fruits on a palate displaying ripe and succulent fruit. Very good fruit quality. Elegant and refined, this has excellent length. A touch of mortein to close adds interest. Classy

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madelaine – 2005 (18.2). Fresher than some in this bracket. Dense and structured, this is a powerful wine. Cooler fruit characters with eucalypt and spice. The palate is firm and tight, with the oak and grippy tannins still dominating the finish. This really needs 5 -10 years to show its best (screw cap).

Balnaves – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Tally – 2004 (17.7). Menthol and some sour cherry/satsuma plum notes to open. Develops lovely perfumed fruit. The palate is dense and the fruit plump and really juicy. Lovely ripe fruit dominates the palate, and the tannins are incredibly fine though a touch chewy. Fruit falls away a touch in the mid palate. Rob Mann described it as having classic Coonawara Choc-Mint.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2004 (18.5). More complex and intriguing nose. Cedar and blackcurrant/dark fruits to the fore. Firm, textured, tight and closed. This has all the hall marks of a great wine, though it needs many years to fully develop.

Hardy’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2004 (18.6). Cooler fruit characters to this, with some capsicum and menthol. This has quality fruit and real density. The wine-making is excellent, and the length and depth of flavours are fantastic. Chewy fruit and excellent mouth-feel point to a star. The style may polarise. 100% Margaret River cabernet from a single vineyard.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18). Classic cabernet fruit here. Pretty, elegant, refined and classy. This has dark fruits and chewy tannins. The grip on the finish is in danger of overwhelming the fruit, but the wine manages to stay in balance. A structured wine of distinction.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18.4). Quite developed nose with some earth and leathery fruit notes. Lovely fruit on the palate including redcurrant. Very long and quite seamless, this is probably the best drinking wine here. The very fine tannins are deceptive, as they add important structure to the wine but you hardly notice them.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Much fresher and very dense. There is a touch of chocolate amongst the fruit. The palate is really inky and dense yet there is a purity of fruit. Very powerful and structured, there is more of the chocolate fruit on the palate. Quite textured, there is little of the mint I was expecting. Excellent length and structure.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.5). Pretty fruit. Lifted violets and redcurrant with some cedar and a touch of ribena. Wow. Superb fruit here. Ripe, fine, elegant, textured, but full of latent power. The pretty fruit dominates the palate, but make no mistake, this is a powerful wine with incredible length and depth to the palate.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). More of the capsicum/cedar fruit here, again suggesting a cooler vintage in Margaret River. Dense and textured, this is just a baby. The palate is powerful and very long. There are cooler fruit characters to the very fine finish. The style will polarise, but a fine wine. Herbal notes with cumin and spice on a powerful finish.

Plantaganet – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). More of the chocolate density here. This wine initially lacks fruit, but it really builds in the mouth and very fine tannins caress the tongue on the finish.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Wow. Lifted ripe red fruits with a touch of vanillin oak. The palate is dense and powerful, with grippy tannins to close. A big and powerful wine, this is a bit of a sleeping giant. Excellent fruit quality but needs many years to come around.

Majella – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). Pretty wine with cassis and cedar overtones. There is a touch of insecticide, and a lovely sour plum nose. There is a riot of flavours here. Ribena/cassis mint, menthol and cherry. Lovely souring acid really adds to the finish. The tannins are firm yet fine and the length is excellent. The balance was questioned by one member of the panel.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2008 (17.8). Lifted and seductive nose. The palate is more about structure, with red fruit overtones. Lacks the generosity of others here, but this will improve with time.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Complex, dense, ripe and structured, this is a wine of class. Powerful, this has masses of dark fruits. Yes there are some blackcurrant notes, but plums, cedar, mocha and spice are the dominant flavours right now. Very powerful, this has a long future.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madelaine – 2008 (18.5). Cedar and spice to open. Much leaner style, there is souring fruit and a touch of plum too. This is a wine that is easy to underestimate due to the subtlety and delicate fruit. Opens to show pristine fruit. For the purists.

Balnaves – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Tally – 2008 (18.2). More of the minty cabernet fruit notes on the nose, with cedar, cinnamon and a touch of clove. The palate shows ripe fruits, but again there is a coolness (menthol and mint) running through the palate. Excellent length and structure, this is a fine wine, though the style may polarise.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18.3). Dense. Some mint and eucalypt on the nose. The palate is dense and structured. There is a generosity to the fruit characters that make this instantly enjoyable. Length and texture are superb. Slightly chewy tannins to close guarantee a long future.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shellie Anne – 2008 (18.5). A touch of insecticide and lots of Margaret River mint and eucalyptus characters. A lovely wine of real class and distinction. Superb length and mouth-feel. Very long and structured, this is a very fine and elegant wine.

Premium Cabernet Sauvignon

18 October 2010

In the lead-up to this weeks Margaret River versus Great Southern at the Hyatt, John Jens asked the panel to look at a few of the wines that he was considering including in the line up.

To make things more interesting, I included a few of the samples that had arrived in the last few weeks. This proved to be a masterstroke, as there were a couple of real surprises.

The Deepwoods Reserve and the Flametree Reserve were both outstanding. It was less surprising that wine like the Heytesbury showed so well. It is important to point out that there are no bad wines here and personal preference has an important role to play.

Reviewed

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon– Reserve – 2008 (18.6). Another lovely nose, with pretty fruits and a touch of oak in the background. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit is perfectly ripe and the balance superb. The length is a highlight as is the mouth-feel and texture. A rare wine! This wine was the best drinking of all the wines on tasting. Whilst the wine will probably age well, I would drink it over the next five years while waiting for the Heytesbury and Flametree.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5+). In a word…pretty. A wine of real power and distinction. There are herbal notes and even a touch of cut grass and black fruits on the nose, and cedary oak adds complexity. Very dense palate, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The palate is seamless, yet dense and powerful. Despite all this, the wine manages to show restraint. Outstanding length is a real feature as are the finest of tannins. A superstar in the making.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.5). Unfortunately, my tasting notes for this wine were lost, but the structure was the highlight here. The fruit was dense and inky, and the length of flavours was impressive. The fine tannins made their presence felt, but there is no doubt that the quality fruit will shine through over the next 10 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2005 (18). Mortien (a good thing), cool fruit notes, mint, eucalypt and vanillin oak. The fruit is ripe with red fruits to the fore, yet the palate is assertive, structured and tight. Needs 10 years to start to show its best. (This wine was never commercially released. The wine tasted here was a sample courtesy of the winery).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Crofters – 2005 (18). Leather and spice over blackcurrant and violets. Powerful, restrained and quite seamless, this is full of latent power. Iron fist in a velvet glove. The length is superb and the flavours evolve. Textural treat, this remains balanced.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2005 (18). Minty and dusty, but an attractive nose. Ripe berry notes combined with chocolate/mocha fruit. Plush mouth-feel and texture. Very silky, the tannins are a highlight. There is a touch of eucalypt and herbs too.

Woodside Valley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Baudin – 2008 (18). Classic nose. Eucalypt, cedar and minty notes on the nose. The palate is powerful, with red fruits and plenty of blackcurrant. The length is excellent, though the palate is a little disjointed at present. Some cherry and spice too. Very young, there is real potential.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2005 (17.8). Developed nose with raspberry, redcurrant, plum and cedary overtones. Spectacularly dense and powerful, this is complex, very textured and rich. The mouth-feel and texture are excellent. This is good short term drinking. (Points were a little split on this wine).

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2007 (17.5+). Dense and quite lovely nose. Cooler fruit, showing mint, eucalypt and red fruits. Very pretty palate, this is forward and floral. The finish is quite astringent yet the tannins are very fine. Persistent, this will flesh out in the mid palate and score higher points in the future.

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Limited Cellar Release – 2005 (17.5). Very pretty, even floral nose with rose and violets. Colour developing. A more angular wine than some here, all components are in place but this will integrate with another couple of years. (An amazing bargain at $10-$15 from Vintage Cellars).

Forrest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2004 (17.5). Again, a touch more developed reflecting the vintage. Menthol, cedar, and cinnamon quill on the nose. Round and soft fruit initially on the palate, there is still plenty tannic grip. Well balanced and needing a couple more years to show its best.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon– Scottsdale – 2005 (17.5). Lovely nose that is classy and silky. Seductive really, with cedar and spice. The palate is firm and chewy. The tannins remain firm and grippy. There is still plenty of fruit, but this will remain structured through its life. Good drinking all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (17.5+). A very hard wine to review. Like the 2008 Cullen Diana Madeleine (reviewed previously) this is an incredibly fine wine. The palate is reserved and tight, yet the tannins are so silky and fine that it is easy to underestimate the quality here. After 4 days on the tasting bench, the pretty red fruits started to open and shine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.3). Closed and dumb to start. Silky and really quite fine, this is elegant and refined. Medium bodied and elegant, the palate is an exercise in restraint. Delicate fruit combine with silky textural components in a seamless package. Lacks the density of the best, but a good drink all the same.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Omrah – 2007 (17). Dense and impenetrable nose. Some dusty/cedary notes. Very rich palate, this is very dense and textured, with savoury notes to close. There is a touch of sweet and sour components to the fruit, which prevented me awarding higher points, but this still represents value.

Cabernet and Blends – New Releases

2 September 2010

It seems that we are in for plenty of good wines over the next year or two. I have long been talking about the quality of the 2008 vintage, but the first 2009’s that we are seeing look pretty good too. All the wines here are good value or are very good (or both), but there are a couple of standouts.

The Leasingham Bin 56 is an excellent wine and great value as it will be discounted to around $20. The Bligh Estate is not a wine that I am familiar with, but it offers great short to medium term drinking and the Angove is an outright bargain.

Reviewed

Leasingham – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Bin 56 – 2008 (18.4). Lovely fruit leaps out of the glass. The palate is firm, but fine and quite seamless. Mouth-feel and texture are standouts and the finish is very long and fine. While the oak is noticeable, this will settle in a year or two as the fruit starts to open up. This is a star with a long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). A welcome return to form by Xanadu. Some briary fruit with density on the nose. The palate is seamless and fine, yet there is latent power. The finish is very long. Develops plum and blueberry fruit characters in the mouth. This is easy to drink now, but that would be a shame.

Bligh Estate – Merlot/Cabernet Franc – 2007 (18). Really deep smelling and very complex. Red fruits to the fore (mulberry), but with lovely blackcurrant fruit density. Some savoury notes too. The palate is quite lean and angular, but fleshes out with air. The finish is very fine and silky.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2005 (18). Red fruit characters. There is lovely minty fruit. The palate shows plenty of spice, with more of the lovely fruit. This is fine and elegant with good length and mouth-feel. Holding its age very well.

Barwick Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Collectables – 2007 (17.9). Lots of mint and even a touch of Mortein on the nose, this is classic Margaret River cabernet sauvignon. More of the same on the palate, with chocolate, mint and cassis. The slightly chewy tannins hold things back now, but these will soften.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.7). Good wine this. There is dense blackcurrant, cedar, cinnamon and spice on the palate and the texture is impressive. The fruit is lost in the fine oak and tannins, but will evolve.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5+). This is a serious wine! Unyielding, this wine is closed and firm. Will score higher points in a year or two, and will need at least 10 years to show its best.

Cricketwood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.5). Dense and concentrated fruit. Cassis, cedar and spice on the nose. Dense fruit on the palate. Quality fruit and winemaking here. The finish is souring and the tannins are very fine. The oak on the finish is fine, but the fruit is subdued. Will drink well in 5-10 years.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – South by Southwest – 2008 (17.5). Sweet ripe fruit on the nose. Concentrated red fruits with blackcurrant and some lifted vanillin oak that is harmonious. The firm palate has dense blackcurrant fruit with a touch of mulberry and plum. Long and mouth-filling, this just needs time to come together. Should be good value.

Preveli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.5). I did not get much on the nose to start, but this is a complex wine. The mouth-feel is excellent, there is fine fruit and there is excellent oak handling. Give it time.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2008 (17). Pristine fruit. Redcurrant, cedar and cloves. The finish is long but a touch firm, but shows nice dark fruits. Will evolve nicely for the next 5 years.

Leasingham – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jam Shed – 2009 (16.9). Crowd pleaser here. This is made in a commercial style for easy drinking. The wine is forward and soft, with round fruit characters. The palate is juicy and there are lovely berry characters. The finish is long and uncomplicated.

Gilberts – Cabernet Sauvignon – Three Lads – 2008 (16.8). Primary fruit in the plum and berry spectrum. The palate is soft and supple, making for an easy drinking style.

Cabernet and Blends – New Release

8 July 2010

Another interesting tasting, and a couple of surprises.

The Shaw Vineyard Estate cabernet sauvignon is a cracker. This is a very good wine, but it is also really good drinking. There is a generosity to the fruit that is very seductive.

Most of the wines will benefit from some bottle age, especially the likes of Suckfizzle and Howard Park. These are excellent wines, but they will develop much greater drinkability in 5-10 years.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet – Abercrombie – 2008 (18.5). This is a super wine with well ripened fruit. Excellent wine making has produced a powerful wine with real class. Cedar and spice dominate the nose, and the palate is fine yet has real fruit density. Evolves with air. Textured and chewy to close, this is a star.

Shaw Vineyard Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium – 2008 (18+). Menthol and elastoplast to start. Even a touch of Mortein, (These are all good things – really!). Some mint and eucalypt suggest cool climate fruit. There is a touch of blackcurrant fruit too and cedary oak highlights. The palate is very good. Long and textured, there are more of the cool fruit characters, but these are ripe and delicious. The tannins are very fine and the souring finish adds life.

Suckfizzle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18). Complex nose with earthy notes to the blackcurrant and sour plum fruit. Tobacco leaf, cedar and herbal notes all add to the nose. The theme follows on the palate with complex fruit and mouth coating texture. Excellent length and firm yet fine tannins. Very good, but needs 10 years.

Cricketwood – Cabernet – 2006 (17.5). Closed. A finely structured and elegant wine, this has soft, high quality fruit. Whilst cool climate fruit is apparent, the fleshiness suggests the fruit ripeness is well judged. Excellent length makes for a satisfying wine. A bargain at $135 per case including delivery to metro Perth. Ph 9384 5555

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.5). Classic nose, with mint and cooler fruit characters. The palate is textured yet very firm at present. Tannins are very fine and the finish is very drying. Not as long as the very best. Gets extra points for being a really good drink now.

Stella Bella – Merlot – Serie Luminosa – 2007 (17.5+) Much more mint and capsicum suggesting a cooler fruit source. Really silky and fine, this is an impressive wine with real length and complexity. Whilst there is some ripe primary fruit, this is Bordeaux-like in its structure and mouth-feel. Fine oak needs time to integrate further. Will improve for 5-10 years, but the style will polarize.

Bligh Estate – Merlot/Cabernet Frank – Blackrock – 2007 (17.3). Dusty, silky nose that is pretty and appealing. There is an amalgam of cedar and spice with ripe fruit in the blueberry and violet spectrum. Quite fine on the palate with a tight, lean structure. This will benefit from a few years in the bottle.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2008 (17). Balanced and fine, this is all about potential. Menthol and herbal characters to the fore, this is a tight and closed wine. Very good length and chewy tannins suggest that the patient will be rewarded.

Bordeaux & Sauternes

15th June 2010

Where do I start? This was an extraordinary event, and I don’t say that just because I was leading the discussion on the night. John Jens and the team at Lamont’s in Cottesloe put together an amazing selection of wines. The fact that they served a meal and only charged $125 per person makes it an absolute bargain.

My suggestion is to get on to their mailing list as their tasting program is second to none. Keep an eye out for the upcoming champagne tasting. I will lead the discussion again and the wines are breathtaking.

Whilst it would be easy to rave about the near perfect Chateau D’Yquem 2003, the highlight for me was the 2000 vintage Leoville Las Case. This is one of the greatest cabernets I have ever tasted.

If you are interested, this tasting forms part of an ongoing series, so there are more of these to come.

Reviewed

In Order Tasted

Chateau Bernadotte – 2005 (16.8). This has lovely sweet and fragrant fruit on the nose. Really floral with a touch of spice. The palate is on the lighter style, dominated by fresh, plumy fruit and a touch of cedar. Good drinking. (Haut Medoc).

Clos du Marquis – 1996 (17.9). More leather here, reflecting the bottle age. Really supple, quality fruit with spice, earth, tar and some herbal characters. Starting to drink very well. (St. Julien). This is not a second wine of Leoville Las Cases, this is from a different vineyard entirely.

Chateau Lafleur Petrus – 2006 (18). Surprisingly masculine for a Pomerol. Really lovely nose on this. Blackcurrant fruit is supple and rounded and there is a whiff of vanillin oak too. The palate is structured, firm, closed and tight. Develops floral fruit with air. There are plenty of tannins and oak, but these are very fine and elegant. (Pomerol).

Chateau Montrose – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is good! Floral characters tend towards Violets. There is also leather and spice, but this wine is all about power and structure. The palate is fantastic! Very tight and long, this is very structured and intense. The fruit is fantastic, but it needs 10-20+ years to open up. (2nd Growth – St Estephe).

Chateau Palmer – 2003 (18+). From a very warm year, this is classic Margaux. Really seductive and much more approachable than the Montrose. While the fruit is silky and supple, this is still very structured. Excellent oak supports the quality finish. (Margaux).

Chateau Pichon Lalande – 2006 (17.8). A complex wine that has more of the earthy characters than some. The palate is quite complete with plenty of leather, earth and mocha notes. The tannins and oak are more dominant, and the fruit less ripe. May take years to come around. (Pauillac).

Chateau Pontet Canet – 2001 (18.5). Very fragrant yet with understated power. The nose has complex dark fruits, leather and earthy notes. The palate is supple, and has a spicy edge to the lovely fruit. The very long finish is starting to show some bottle age. (Pauillac).

Chateau Pichon Longueville – 1995 (18.5). A powerful wine that is developing a lovely leathery/savoury note to the floral fruit. The palate is silky, elegant, long, textured and really refined. This is a beautiful wine that will last for many years. (Pauillac).

Chateau Leoville Las Cases – 2000 (18.9). A gorgeous nose. This is a classic case of having an iron fist inside a velvet glove. The fruit is tremendously shy and at 10 years, this is just starting to hint at its potential. The palate is seamless and stunning. A great wine and one of the best cabernet based wines I have ever tasted! (St Julien).

Chateau Latour – 1985. (Cork Tainted).

Chateau Palmer – 1985 (18.5). A lovely developed nose with leather and spice. The palate is fantastic. Fragrant, floral, spiced, mellow and supple. At 25 years of age, a lovely aged claret. (Margaux).

Chateau du Pavillon – 2005 (16.5). Fresh apricot and musk. The palate has almond grip to the sweet fruit. Not complex but a good drink.

Chateau Guiraud – 2005 (18+). Closed and a touch sulphurous on the nose. The palate is a revelation. Classic orange peel, marmalade and marzipan fruit with tremendous length and structure. Will score higher in years to come.

Chateau Suduiraut – 2004 (18). Still tight, but a more restrained style compared to the Guiraud. The finish is spot on and the complexity builds. Great length and has a long future.

Chateau D’Yquem – 2003 (19). A gorgeous wine with stunning floral fruit that opens, evolves and builds for an age. The palate has immense power and structure, and the length is like no other. The flavours evolve in the mouth and never seem to end. Arguably the greatest estate in all of Bordeaux and possibly the world. At $650 per bottle, this is a bargain!

New Release Cabernet

Part Two – 6 June 2010

In the second half of our line up of wines made from Bordeaux varietals, there were a number of excellent wines yet again. In fact, the only wine that did not get a bronze medal or better was not made in Australia.

From a value point of view, three wines really stood out. The Angove’s Long Row cabernet is a steal at less than $10 dollars, and the Kalgan River and Palmer reds deliver great drinking enjoyment for less than $20 at the cellar door.

In the middle is my pick for the tasting. The O’Leary Walker is deserving of its gold medal and should be available for not much more than $20. This is a contender for Cabernet of the Year. Try contacting the winery as I am not sure if this is in the shops yet.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Heytesbury from Vasse Felix is a wine of immense power and structure that will live for many years. The other wine that I will recommend is a cabernet from Howard Park. Whilst their Abercrombie may be the better wine in the long term, the Leston is so delicious and well balanced that this is where I would put my money, (esp. given that it is half the price).

Finally, a word on Cullen. The Diana Madeleine topped the tasting on my score sheet, but I am not going to recommend it. The wines at Cullen are quite unique. With the move to biodynamic, Vanya Cullen has found that the grapes achieve ripeness of tannins at much lower sugar levels. Their wines in this tasting ranged from 12% – 12.5% alcohol. This has resulted in very fine wines, though the flavour spectrum is quite different to the other wines in this tasting. Primary fruit characters are definitely reduced. Time will tell whether the general drinking public will understand these wines.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeleine – 2008 (18.5). Silky but very closed. The palate is seamless and very fine. This is elegant and classy. The texture is soft yet mouth-coating and the tannins are silky and very elegant. Whilst this is an excellent wine, it will not appeal to all. With 12.5% alcohol and very fine structure, it is easy to miss this wine.

O’Leary Walker – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Mortein to start with. Blackcurrant, cherry and tar. The palate has real depth and density of high quality fruit. This is generous, mouth-coating and textured. Blackcurrant, raspberry, tar and a touch of menthol to close. High quality oak is absorbed by the fruit and adds to the close. This wine is the opposite of the Cullen. It is a wine that anyone can enjoy. A very good drink.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2007 (18.5). Lovely fruit on this. Ripe, structured, intense and dense. Extraordinarily powerful fruit, but the palate is still coming together as the high quality oak is a touch obvious. A very intense wine that demands 10 years in the cellar, and deserves 20.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2008 (18.2). Alluring and intriguing. This has hints of many of the other wines in the tasting. Red fruits and cedar are predominant. The finish is structured, dense and closed. This is a potential star. (We had a glass of this the next night with pizza, and it was fabulous).

Brown Brothers – Cabernet Sauvignon – Patricia – 2005 (18). More Bordeaux-like to start; this has a touch of savoury notes to the ripe and elegant fruit. There is even a touch of pepper to close. Red fruits are shy, though there is a touch of stewed fruit to close. A textured wine that will show its best in 5 -10 years.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18+). Concentrated ripe fruit on the nose with blackcurrant and cedar. The palate is firm, dense, textured and powerful. The acids and tannins are firm, but this will improve with age. Give it ten years and you will be amply rewarded.

Kalgan River – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Obvious cooler fruit characters here, though still ripe and lifted. There is menthol, blackcurrant and spice. The palate is fantastic. The fruit flavours run across the spectrum and fan out and coat the tongue. Quite silky and seamless. Excellent length and texture to an early drinking style. At $18.50 per bottle from the winery, this is great value.

Palmer – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.9). Starts to sing as it opens up with fresh red and black fruit. Vanillin oak is notable, but this is fine and will integrate further. Blackcurrant, eucalypt, mint and spice all make an appearance on the palate. The tannins, (fruit and oak), are firm but will soften. Good value at $19 from the winery.

Mt Horricks – Cabernet – 2008 (17.7). More plumy fruit on the nose, with sultanas and with a touch of licorice and camphor. This really evolved with air to develop some lovely mint and blackcurrant. The palate is fresh, with juicy fruit, plum, prune, licorice and a touch of cedary oak. This is different in style to the wines from Margaret River, but it is very good drinking.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.7). Lovely fruit. Fresh and plump, with real attack and thrust on the palate to start and with soft, plump, plumy fruit on the finish. This is great drinking and very accessible. (I can’t wait to try the reserve).

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2008 (17.3). Dense and closed. Hints at cool climate fruit. More fly spray on this and the structure is good. The fruit is a bit shy, but at under $10, why not put a few in the cupboard and see how they develop.

Howard Park – Cabernet – Scotsdale – 2008 (17.3). Classic cabernet nose with a touch of cassis, ribena, redcurrant and spice. The palate is supple, soft, round and generous with more ripe fruit. This is quite a fruit-forward style that is easy to drink right now, though the fine tannins and length ensure that it will improve with age.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red – 2008 (17). Closed but promising. Fine, tight and closed on the palate. Some redcurrant and vanillin oak to close. Try again in a year or two.

Mount Avoca – Merlot – 2008 (17). Forward, fresh and plumy fruit on the nose. The palate is full of soft, round and succulent red berries. Really good drinking in a less complicated style.

Wine By Brad – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008. (16.9). Dense fruit and with a touch of fresh ocean characters. . Ribena and cedar on the palate with a touch of stewed fruit to close. This is in the more herbal spectrum, yet has sweet fruit to close.

Cullen – Merlot/Petit Verdot/Malbec – Mangan – 2008 (16.8). Quite dusty to start, with plenty of plumy fruit with cherry and spice. This is an interesting wine, but not typical. (This uses varieties from Bordeaux other than cabernet sauvignon and gets the plumy characters from the merlot).