Cabernet and Bordeaux Varietals

10 November 2010

It has been interesting to watch the development of the cabernet sauvignon/merlot blends over the last few years. There has been a real move to making these more accessible as compared to the straight cabernets from the same wineries. (Of course there are exceptions like Cullens etc).

A solid selection of wines on show here. The top four wines are all worthy of attention, and all could have scored higher on a different day. From a value/quality balance, the Ferngrove comes out on top. An excellent wine. In the medium term, the Forester will probably emerge on top for quality.

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2008 (18.1+). Concentrated fruit. This has a real density to the fruit on the nose. There is sweet cabernet fruit on the palate, with blackcurrant, cedary oak and quite silky tannins. Quality fruit, excellent length and mouth-feel make for an excellent wine.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Classic Margaret River fruit with cedar, eucalypt and menthol overlaying blackcurrant and earthy fruit notes. The palate continues the theme, and is amazingly seamless. This is only medium bodied, but has plenty of fruit intensity typical of a cooler area.

Juniper Crossing – Merlot – 2008 (17.9). Perfumed and more elegant in style, this has instant appeal. Soft, plumy fruit with black cherry and savoury overtones. Excellent length and texture, this is a stylish wine. Will develop well in the medium term.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.8+). Fresher than some here and with an appealing nose. The palate is dense yet fine, elegant yet structured. The tannins (fruit and oak) are supple and silky and the length impressive. Do not underestimate this wine.

Boston Bay – Merlot – 2008 (17.6). More fragrant, yet firm and structured. Cherry, plum and spice, followed by dusty tannins and some vanillin oak tones. This is a powerful wine that has the structure needed to cellar for many years, but will the balance remain? Perhaps best to enjoy this over the next 5 years.

Chateau Laroque – St Emillion – Grand Cru – 2001 (17.6). Starting to brown on the edge. Much more dense and closed. Elegant style that is pretty and well balanced. Just starting to get some savoury, aged characters and the length is good. Very good, but slightly rustic (one panellist marked it down for the rustic notes).

White Dog Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.4). Vibrant and lifted fruit on the nose. Plum, herbs and a touch of eucalypt/menthol all apparent. Juicy, plump and generous, this is very drinkable, yet there is enough structure via fine oak and tannins to live on. Firm finish.

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2008. (17.3). Slightly sweet and sour with some firm notes over the top. Somewhat firm and sturdy. Dense fruit, typical of malbec. Well made with good use of oak and good balance. Strong support from the rest of the panel.

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Horseshoe Row – 2008. (17.3). Pretty and forward nose with lovely red fruits and a touch of cherry. Cherry, spice and cinnamon all vie for attention on a straightforward and uncomplicated palate. Good support from all, but the bottle is very low rent!

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon – Chapter 3 – 2008 (17.3). Quite closed, but showing nice balance. There is a touch of licorice to the palate, yet the oak and tannins (very fine) subdue the fruit. A good wine that needs a few years to perform at its best. (I will be interested to see if a famous champagne house complains about the label colour!)

Castea – Merlot – Cotes de Castillon – 2004 (17). Lovely brick red, this has dusty notes to the fruit. Touch of earth, plum and leather lend with more primary fruit characters. Mature palate that while not generous, is balanced and satisfying.