Category Archives: Imported – Wine Review

Sancerre and Poilly Fume

Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire

9 May 2010

Given the vast quantities of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that we see, it is easy to forget that the Loire Valley in France is the spiritual home of the variety. It can be quite startling to taste the French wines along side the New Zealand wines – the styles that they are made in are so different.

The wines of Sancerre and Poilly Fume often display the creamy/worked characters associated with extended lees contact and lees stirring. The better wines may also be fermented and stored in oak, which further increases complexity.

We looked at a range of French wines that are either now on sale, or will be arriving in the country in the next month or so to see how they stacked up. It should be noted that wines from 2009 were bottled and shipped from France in the last three weeks. The resulting “bottle shock” means the wines will improve with a few weeks rest.

Tasted

Florian Mollett – Sancerre – Roc de l’abbaye – 2009 (17.5). Savoury nose with creamy characters associated with lees contact. There is also an underlying mineral component. The palate starts off fine and steely, with a creamy, textural component. A pretty yet powerful wine that will improve in the short term. Great value at $25 from Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

Pascal Jolivet – Sancerre – 2008 (18). A touch more lifted with some tropical and stone fruit (both peach and apricot), with some development starting. The palate is more worked and textured, powerful and viscous. This is long and builds in the mouth with fine citrus acidity. A lovely wine.

Florian Mollett – Sancerre – L’ Antique – 2009 (16.9). More fragrant again with apricot, musk, sherbet and passionfruit. These characters follow on the palate with green apple and lime juice acidity. Develops some oily, spicy notes and has a touch of phenolics. I would like to see this again in six months.

Florian Mollett – Sancerre – 2009 (17.5). Closed, steely, pristine and young. In the mouth – steely, taught, fine and fresh. A simpler style that may develop some complexity from time in the bottle.

Comte La Fond – Sancerre – 2007 (17.3). In some ways, this blends characteristics from all the other Sancerres. Some tropical fruit, passionfruit and musk, but also with complex “worked” characters and some bottle age.

Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – L’ Antique – 2009 (17.5+). Closed to start, but with some lemony, citrus notes. Becomes fragrant and spicy with air. The palate is quite grippy, with lemony acid. Fruit is there, but is very shy. Almond and apricot to close. One to watch.

Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – 2009 (17.8). Tight and really lemony. Steely, slate minerals and balancing lemon acidity. This should go down a treat next summer and should be excellent value.

Jean Paul Mollett – Pouilly Fume – Les Sables – 2009 (17.5+). More richness and texture here with a touch of fresh soap and herbal notes over a touch of stone-fruit. Crisp acidity with granny smith apple and lemon zest. Great example that will only improve.

Ladoucette – Poilly Fume – 2006 (17.5). A big wine. “Turbo-charged”. This is worked and showing some development. Lanolin and lees from barrel fermentation. The palate is creamy and textured, with honeyed development. There are some oak tannins to close. Good drinking and ready now.

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond!)

2 June 2011

Dr Loosen in the Mosel

When I decided to visit Germany, the Mosel region was top of my list. And in terms of producers, Dr Loosen topped the Mosel list. I was familiar with Dr Loosen wines – readily available at varying quality levels in Australia – and of course, with Ernst Loosen himself.

Ernie Loosen has won more awards than you can poke a stick at, including being Decanter’s Man of the Year in 2005. Many of his vineyard sites contain very old Riesling vines (over 120 years old) on their own rootstocks (phylloxera cannot trouble the vines in the red/grey slate).

When I sent him an email, he kindly forwarded it to Michael Stahlman, Event Manager, who kindly arranged to see me. Ernst Loosen’s dynamic, ebullient and irreverent nature extends to selecting staff with the same qualities.

Though I arrive late (I got the Bernkastel and Kues sides of the River confused…) Michael kindly agreed to see me. A sommelier of some note, and with extensive experience in the on-premise trade in the past, Michael and I chatted for almost two hours, tasting as we went along. The mood became less formal, and Michael’s cheeky and playful nature emerged.

“What is the residual sugar in that one?!” Time and again, I underestimated it – all because of the (superb) rousing level of acidity.

Other gems I picked up from Michael included the debunking of the term “balance” in a wine – between tannins and fruit, or acidity and sweetness for example. He spoke instead of a triangle involving a third factor, that of the individual taste preference of the client or taster. In his work as a sommelier he rarely recommended a wine until he understood the preferences of the client. And then and only then did he ever so gently nudge them out of their comfort zone. He used this method to introduce his father to halbtrocken (“semi dry”), no I really should say feinherb (“elegant dry”) these days, wines.

He spoke of four methods to match food and wine – the wine supporting the food flavours, the food supporting the wine flavours, a matching of flavours in both (such as a smoky cheese with a ‘smoky’ wine), or going for contrasts (like a Beerenauslese with paté, for example).

What did we try?

Dr L – Riesling – 2010. Superb quality for the price – 40g/l residual sugar (RS) and 8.5% alc – widely available in Australia

Bernkasteler Lay – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. RS 50g/l with greater complexity – I thought field mushrooms – and depth.

Erdener Trepchen – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. This site has red slate soil, and I found a core of citrus wrapped around minerality and shitake mushrooms! Michael liked that – “People say normal mushrooms, but I don’t agree…shitake mushrooms I like!”

Graacher Himmelreich – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. Grown on blue slate, and at 10% alcohol, this was like crunching into a crispy ripe Pink Lady apple…!

Ürzinger Würzgarten – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. This time the soils are volcanic, with the palate displaying hay, pepper and herb, and tropical fruit in the background. 7.5% alc

Wehlener Sonennuhr – Riesling – Kabinett – 2009. Grown on rocky blue slate, I found the minerality in this wine the highest, with lively underlying lychee fruit.

Wehlener Sonennuhr – Riesling – Spätlese – 2009. Sweeter yet balanced by the acidity, with the signature minerality and this time citrus and passionfruit. 7.5% alc

Dr. Loosen – Riesling – Beerenauslese – 2006. Needless to say we finished on a high. No cloying sweetness here, just clarity and balance (oops! Sorry Michael). At only 6.5% alcohol, I could swallow with a clear conscience.

All the wines were of exceptional quality, irrespective of style and price point. I would venture to suggest even the entry level wines would age gracefully. I am grateful to have had the opportunity of meeting Michael Stahlman and try Dr Loosen wines – it was well worth the 2 hour drive from Mainz!

Ciao! Auf wiedersehen!

Brendan Jansen

Argentinean Imports

Reviewed: 1 September 2012

Rob Lurie and Brad Ross (Redwax) focus on importing wines from Mendoza in Argentina. Specifically, Malbec based wines are the basis of their portfolio.

The wines are notable for possessing quality fruit and for being well made. Whilst not cheap, the wines are worth trying as they offer a departure from shiraz and cabernet, yet possess dense, ripe fruit and modern winemaking. Of the four wines we tried, the Gran Reserve is my pick. Well made, yet deliciously different. The Prestige pips it for quality, but needs years to reach its best.

For stock, try La Vigna in Mt Lawley, De Vine Cellars, Steve’s Fine Wine and Swanbourne Cellars.

Reviewed

Mairena – Malbec/Bonarda – Reserve – 2008 (17.4). Dense fruit on the nose showing licorice and earthy notes, with a spicy lift. The palate has chocolate, mocha, dense fruit, spice and licorice over chewy tannins. There is good texture and length and the finish is rich and warm with a savoury edge.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon – Brigitte – 2009 (16.8). Different. This is earthy, textured and long, though the fruit characters tend towards cherry and sour plum. Really needs food to bring out its best, but there is good depth and the finish is mouth-watering. The tannins are more textural and the oak adds depth. Fun wine.

Carinae – Malbec – Gran Reserve – 2008 (17.9). Sweet fruit and oak on the nose, this is a very attractive wine. Dense, plush and mouth-filling, the fruit is ripe and well suited to the new oak treatment. The tannins are prodigious, yet fine and really drive the finish. Length is a feature, as is the mouth-feel. The fruit and oak quality are obvious, and the mouth-feel excellent.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Prestige – 2008 (18+). Dense notes of berry, chocolate and cherry. More refined and elegant than the Gran Reserve, with gentle, ripe and subtle fruit on the nose. Long and fine, the palate reflects the quality fruit, though the tannins and acid keep it in check at the moment. A very good wine that shows elegance and class.

Mixed Reds – New Release

31 January 2011

There appears to be a trend towards blending sangiovese with other varieties in Australia at the moment. Initially, I questioned why the winemakers were doing this, but I realised that this is not without a couple of precedents.

Some of the best red wines ever made in Australia have been blends of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Even Penfolds Grange has some cabernet in the blend in most years. Yet in Bordeaux, (the home of cabernet) the use of shiraz is not permitted and in Hermitage, (the home of shiraz), cabernet is prohibited.

In Italy, many of the most exciting wines of the last 15 years have been blends of sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon or merlot, e.g. Sassicia and Solaia. These wines have had to carry the most basic label as these blends contravened the laws governing what could be called Chianti. Ironically, they quickly became highly sought after and demanded higher prices than almost any wines wearing the Chianti classification.

So to the tasting…

Tasted

Juniper Crossing – Tempranillo – 2009 (17.5). Dense and almost impenetrable. Chewy and textured, but the fruit is very shy right now. The finish is fine and the tannins are well integrated. Should improve.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2008 (17). Sweet and succulent fruit, with some vanillin oak notes in the background. The palate is fine and silky with savoury fruit characters to the fore. The finish is very long and the silky tannins work well. Chewy close and drying tannins acknowledge the wines of Chianti.

Voyager Estate – Merlot – 2007 (17). Aromas of cedar and menthol over the dark fruits. Some ripe fruit notes, but the middle palate is lean and drying. Quality fruit builds in the mouth and the fine tannins balance out the finish. Well made, and should develop for a few years.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Franc – 2009 (16.8). Plump and fleshy, this has vibrant sweet fruit. Mulberry, red berries, blackcurrant and plum all coat the tongue. The finish is soft yet there are persistent fine tannins to keep it fresh. Good current drinking and better than a quaff.

Penfolds – Sangiovese – Cellar Reserve – 2006 (16.6). Again, has sweet fruit and oak on the nose. Cedar, spice and firm tannins dominate the palate. A modern wine that needs some time to improve, though you can see hints of the Penfolds style in the wine. Needs food.

Tintara – Sangiovese – 2007 (16.5). Savour, souring nose, with a palate that matches. This is long and fine, but is in no way dominated by the fruit. Authentic style.

Norton – Malbec – Reserva – 2007 (16.5). A powerful wine that is dense, ripe and textured. The savoury edge to the finish keeps the balance and the firm tannins need to soften somewhat. Will be interesting to see how this develops. At under $15, this is worth a punt.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2009 (16.4). Sweet, rich and ripe fruit. A powerful wine, with plenty of ripe fruit and fine tannins. The only question is when would you drink it.

Monte La Sarda – Grenache – 2009 (16). Quite deep and dense, there are licorice, tar and savoury characters. Souring finish retains freshness, but lacks the depth of fruit of the best here. An interesting drink. (Synthetic closure – I would like to try another bottle to see if the fruit expresses better).

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2009 (15.8). Forward and almost jammy. A big wine with plenty of sunshine in the glass. No rough edges, but lacks real interest.

Talisman – Malbec – 2009 (15.8). Seductive nose that is soft, round and generous. Nice plummy fruit to a good quaff.

Guigal

9 August 2010

Guigal is to France as Penfolds is to Australia. Both produce some of the greatest shiraz based wines in the world. I would go as far as to say that between them, they are probably responsible for the greatest wines based on shiraz.

In Australia, Grange and Hill of Grace are at the pinacle. In France, the single vineyard wines of Guigal are the ultimate expression of shiraz. La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline come not from Hermitage, but rather are the ultimate expression of Cote Rotie. In recent times, Chateau d’Ampuis has rivalled the more famous three for quality. Be warned, these wines are not cheap.

Like Penfolds, Guigal produces many wines at various price points to cover all the consumer’s needs. At the affordable end of the spectrum is the generic Cotes du Rhones. These are wines that rely on purity of fruit for quality and show no oak influence. From here the wines range up in price commensurate with the appellation that they come from. Experience has shown that even the base wines can age well. (I am still drinking the 1995 Cotes du Rhones in my cellar, and it is a very satisfying drink).

According to Brett Crittenden (their Brand Ambassador in Australia), the upcoming vintages are going to be even better. He explained that in 2006, the company commissioned new cellars that can process the millions of litres of wines that are produced each year. Up until then, the company bought wine from other producers to blend up into their Cotes du Rhone.

When it comes to recommendations, this is an unusual case of more = more. The most expensive wines are also the best. My pick is the 2005 d’Ampuis. At $300 per bottle, this is frightfully expensive, but it is half the price of the other single vineyard reds!

NB: This was not a blind tasting so take the points with a grain of salt.

Reviewed

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Blanc) – 2009 (16.8). Quite a delicate and refreshing nose with floral and tropical fruits. The palate is defined by an oiliness and viscosity on the finish. Will take food well.

Guigal – Saint Joseph (Blanc) – 2006 (17.2). This has more structure than the previous wine. The texture is what stands out here. Oak influence plus a lees character add to the creamy palate. A long and subtle wine.

Guigal – Condrieu – La Doriane – 2007 (17.7+). This has lovely apricot, pear and spice tones on the nose. Peachy stonefruit and musk lead the palate, but this is a powerful wine with excellent length to the tight and restrained finish. There is some almond meal to close. Whilst powerful, this is much finer than the typical Australian equivalent. Will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (Viognier)

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Rouge) – 2006 (16.8). Fresh cherries and spice on the nose. The palate is soft, fresh and quite plush. Fine fruit tannins and acidity keep the fruit in check. History suggests that a few years in the cellar will be of benefit.

Guigal – Chateau Neuf de Pape – 2005 (17.5). Much more concentrated with real depth of fruit. The palate is quite chewy, with cherry, tar, spice and licorice. This is a fine wine that will score higher in a few years.

Guigal – Crozes Hermitage – 2005 (17+). The first wine in the line-up that had shiraz fruit characters as the dominant aroma. This is quite textured, with spice and herbs on the palate. There are cher.ry fruit characters and a pleasant tarriness to the finish. Medium bodied. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – 2004 (17). More structured than the Crozes, with earthy characters to the fore. The palate is structured, with spice and an earthiness to the fruit characters. The finish is soft, elegant and supple. Drinks well now. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2004 (17.7). A step up in terms of fruit expression. Vibrant red fruits overlay tar, licorice and spice. This has fantastic cool fruit characters with concentrated white pepper and very good structure. Sympathetic oak complements the finish on a silky and quite delicious wine. Now to 8 yrs. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2006 (18.5). Very fresh in comparison to the 2004, with lovely primary red fruits on the nose. The palate is flooded by red fruits, yet the finish is really silky. Seamless, long and very fine, the fruit coats the tongue and evolves. Whilst the oak and tannins suppress the finish a little right now, this is an excellent wine that deserves 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2004 (18). Much greater density than some here, this is a very structured wine that is still closed. The palate is dense, and just starting to develop some leather and chocolate fruit characters. Not that accessible. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2005 (18.5). Quite closed, but develops perfume with air. This is really enticing and alluring. Whilst tight and closed, this has fantastic fruit expression. The finish is dominated by very fine tannins and quality oak, but these are not aggressive. A very fine wine with a long future. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Turque – 2004 (18.8). Really only hints at its potential. This is a massively proportioned wine that displays an amazing depth of fruit. Despite all this the wine remains elegant and refined. The length of this wine is incredible, with seamless mouth-feel and perfect balance. Amazingly, this is only 13% alcohol and demonstrates that a stunning, powerful wine can be made without using over-ripe fruit. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Landonne – 2005 (18.5). Fresher, and displaying more pepper than the La Turque. The palate is much more youthful, with bright, vibrant fruit and a long finish. Quite closed initially, this built significant richness and pretty cherry fruit with air. Needs time to show its best. (Shiraz)

New Release Reds – Italian

6 April 2010

The surprises continue here at Fine Wine Club.

This week’s panel tasting looked at a range of red wines, primarily made from Italian/Spanish grape varieties. Often, these wines can be savoury and structured in a style that is typically more suited to drinking with food than tasting on their own.

There has been a change in the approach made by many of the younger European wine makers over the last few years however. There is a trend toward retaining the primary fruit characters of the wines and adding some new oak into the winemaking mix. The result is a more modern wine that is more accessible to Australian wine drinkers who are used to fresh, modern and (importantly) clean wines.

The surprises came not from this new breed of imported wine, but from a range of Australian wines made from less common grape varieties. Highlights Included the wines from Banrock Station. Their new Mediterranean Collection has produced some great value wines. Both the Temperanillo and the Montepulciano are very smart wines and will offer outstanding value at $15 or less per bottle.

Another surprise came from the Paul Conti. Of all the wines tasted, this was the most traditional in style. A very good wine. The star of the tasting was the Running with Bulls Temperanillo. Made by Louisa Rose from Yalumba, this is a sexy wine that really hits the mark. Buy a six-pack and drink a bottle every year to see how it develops.

Tasted

Running With Bulls – Temperanillo -2008 (17.7). Dense yet pretty nose with lovely floral fruit tending towards roses. Ripe fruit characters on the palate with licorice and spice to add complexity. The dry finish lingers. Very long and fine, this will take some time in bottle. Very good wine.

Paul Conti – Temperanillo – The Tuarts – 2007 (17.2). Precise, focussed nose with menthol, tar, cinnamon and a touch of tobacco leaf. More of the same on the palate in a dry style. The tannins are fine but mouth coating. A textural wine that needs some food. More reserved, tight and structured.

Banrock Station – Temperanillo – Mediterranean Collection – 2007 (17.1). Ripe fruit with Satsuma plum on the nose. Fresh and vibrant palate with currants and some dusty spice. Remarkably soft finish makes this excellent short term drinking. Excellent balance with silky tannins to close. Probably has had some whole bunch fermentation.

Banrock Station – Montepulciano – Mediterranean Collection – 2008 (17). Dusty cherry characters. Savoury, but with some sweet fruit over tar and a touch of licorice. The palate is bursting with ripe cherries. Fruit driven, but with plenty of tannin grip on the close to tighten up the finish. Long and juicy. (Confusingly, Montepulciano is the name of both a grape and a town in Italy.)

Care – Shiraz Temperanillo – Carinena – 2008. (16.8). More savoury characters here and quite interesting. Fresh and fruit driven, with gentle tannins and acid to keep the balance. Not a big wine, but good drinking. (Synthetic cork).

Dominion de Goren – Vino De La Tierra De Castella – Codices – 2006. (16.6). Sweet fruit and clean winemaking. Cherry, herbs and a medicinal character work together on the nose with a touch of menthol. A structured wine with a souring cherry finish. Would work well with food.

Wild Oates – Temperanillo – 2008 (16.5). Less obvious nose, but this is a well put together wine. The palate has simple fresh fruit tending towards some stewed plum characters. A solid effort.

Last Sunday Tasting Group

27th September 2009

The start of school holidays coincided with this month’s tasting, which saw a much smaller turnout than normal. Myles Beaman gave us the theme of Spanish wine, and kindly hosted the tasting. I was surprised at the number of excellent wine regions in Spain. Typically, I think of Rioja and Sherry as being the most well known wines, but when I looked into the regions, there are many that I recognize and admire. Follow the link to decanters web site for an excellent map of the regions.

The regions with the greatest reputations are Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) is the most important grape grown in each region. In Rioja, blending partners include grenache (garanche), graciano and mazuelo. In Ribera, besides tempranillo, the grapes permitted in the blend include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and grenache.

The wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero have four different levels, which (in theory) relate to quality. Each level has minimum requirements that must be met to use the name.

  • Joven – Typically unoaked
  • Crianza – Minimum aging of one year in oak and one year in bottle
  • Reserva – Minimum aging of one year in oak and two years in bottle
  • Grand Reserva – Minimum of two years aging in oak and a further three years in bottle

Myles kept to the theme with dinner and presented some very authentic Spanish fare that helped soak up some of the wine. It must be said that the food was fantastic and complemented the wine beautifully.

Tasted

Alvaro Palacios – Dofi – Priorat – 1999 (18.5). A blend of grenache, shiraz, cabernet and merlot. Wow, very complex, with aged characters, leather, spice and sweet fruit. This evolved in the glass and was really compelling. The earthy leathery characters continued on the palate, but did not dominate. Opened with cherries and anise fruit on a fine and quite seamless structure. Great drinking.

Pingus – Flor de Pingus – 2001 (18). Very leathery and starting to show some developed characters on the nose. It is the palate that is really stunning. Silky fruit floods the palate, with a long seamless finish. There are a lot of earthy and barnyard characters. We all loved it, but the style may challenge Australian shiraz lovers.

Borsao – Tres Picos – Garancha – 2007 (17.7). Wow, this is impressive. Ripe, clean and fresh, the nose opens with plum, grapefruit, sour cherries and a slight medicinal character. The palate is dense, textured and layered, with licorice and a touch of menthol. Would do well with food. (May polarize, but worth a try).

Pesquera – Reserva – Ribera del Duero – 1998 (17.5). Interesting nose of leather and spice. The spicy characters continue on the long and savoury palate. Quite linear.

Telmo Rodrigues – Lanzaga – Rioja 2006 (17.3). Very closed and dense with ribena and licorice notes to start. The palate is dusty and fine with some licorice fruit. While the oak is apparent now, it does not intrude. A very silky palate suggests this will evolve well over the next five or more years.

Sierra – Cantabria – Crianza – Rioja – 2004 (17.2). Quite delicious wine, with appealing savoury fruit. The palate displays plums, leather and some earthy characters. Complex, long and fine. (100% Tempranillo).

Baltasar – Calatayud – Vinas Viejas – Garanche – 2003 (17)). Fresh fruit and maraschino cherries on the nose. This is a big wine. With textured plummy fruit, licorice, all-spice and leather. There are savoury tannins and oak that serve to shut down the fruit.

Vasse Felix – Tempranillo – 2007 (16.9). Fresh and clean, with ripe red berries, licorice and a touch of leather. There is sweet ripe fruit on the palate that is relatively simple. Very modern.

Marques de Velila – Crianza – Ribera del Duero – 2001 (16.8). Developed characters of leather and earth on the nose. The palate is quite peppery with sweet fruit under a supple leathery surface. Fine tannins, but lacks the depth of fruit of the better wines here.

Cosme Palacio Y Hermanos Crianza – Rioja – 1998 (16.5). Appears quite old. Lovely mouth feel, but leathery fruit faded. (Had been decanted several hours before).

Red Burgundy

Reviewed: 30 November 2011

When I was asked to help out at a Burgundy tasting hosted by Loren White, I was happy to oblige. The fact that I was in Adelaide on the morning of the tasting when I was asked was a minor hurdle, but I made sure that I was back in time. Loren is one of the true intellects of wine. Not only does he have a superb palate, he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Burgundy (and wine in general). I would go as far as to say that he is probably the best that I know.

The wines were good to excellent, though ultimately burgundy is never cheap.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Plum, cherry, and hints of tar to what is a surprisingly structured nose. The palate is dense, quite structured and long, with chewy tannins to close. Better than the Bourgogne status would indicate.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2008 (16.5). Open and round, with simple, sweet fruit. A straightforward wine that is juicy and easy to drink.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17.2). Fragrant, ripe and seductive, with forward fruit balanced by silky tannins and a touch of oak. Good length and reasonable texture make this an attractive drink.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (16.8). Nice nose here that is fragrant and ripe. Not that concentrated, but well made.

Philippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17.3) This has plenty of up-front fruit, though it is a more muscular style. The palate is firm yet silky, with impressive length. Again, not that dense, but enjoyable.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Cote de Nuits Vilages – 2009 (17.2). A taut and closed wine that will need a year or two to open up.

Domaine De La Vougeraie – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (17.5+). A more traditional nose that has hints of medicinal notes and a touch of stalkiness that does not detract. The palate leads off with sour cherry fruit and really builds with air. Very good length and texture. Old fashioned? Sure, but this is an enjoyable Burgundy.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Vosne Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Suchots – 2009 (18). A lovely wine that is both complex and seductive. The nose is redolent of cherry, spice, tar and forest floor notes, all over bright red fruit. The palate is chewy and dense, while the fruit is quite closed. I like this.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Murgers – 2009 (NR). A bad bottle.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Damodes – 2009 (18+). Another lovely nose here that is seductive and surprisingly feminine. Fresh fruit abounds on a vibrant palate that has lovely souring acidity to complement the cherry fruit. Great length and persistence.

Humbert Freres – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenots – 2009 (17.5). A wine in two parts. The nose is perfumed and fresh, with cherry, tar and berry notes. The palate is long, though it is quite lean and angular at present. Like many wines from this commune, this should flesh out with time and score higher points when it does.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Fonteny – 2009 (18). The nose on this is very closed and hints at earthy notes. The palate however is a revelation. The fruit is fine and refined, though the plentiful (ripe) tannins completely shut down the finish. Needs years to show its best, but may well be a star.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Corton Grancey – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). A powerful wine that retains its elegance. Although structured and closed, this is silky, supple and very long. The palate is all about potential. The finish is near seamless, and there is the first signs of the fruit fanning out on a very fine finish.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). There is a richness to the fruit here that has real appeal. This is very powerful, though there is a freshness to the fruit that imbues life into the wine. Whilst the palate is very closed, the quality is obvious. More delicate than the other two Grand Crus, this is also more delicious now.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Chambertin Clos de Beze – Grand Cru – 2009 (18/18.5+). Fruit, oak, winemaking… everything about this wine speaks quality but the wine has not come together yet. Really closed and tight, this may well be the best wine here. It will, however, take 20 years to find out. (I will never know, as this is frightfully expensive).

Red and White Burgundy

New Release

Reviewed: 23 November 2011

 

Some smart young wines on show here. For a list of stockists, contact Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveat applies: My points are an indication only.

Reviewed

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2009 (16.5). Appealing mineral and flint, with a little honey. Quite developed, with peachy fruit. Not overly long or complex, but satisfying.

Philippe Chavy – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Lovely nose with stonefruit that is ripe yet focussed. Impressive wine. There are hints of pineapple and smoky match strike, with fresh fruit to close. Quite linear in the palate, this is an enjoyable wine with stonefruit on a creamy finish.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chablis – 1er Cru – Cote de Lechet – 2008 (18). Wow, lovely nose. This really sucks you in. Minerals to the fore, with flint, match strike and wet pebble. The density of fruit here is remarkable. Long and fine, this has really pure fruit. Still quite young and closed, there is real potential here. A fine wine and classic Chablis.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2009 (17.5). More honey here, peach and apricot with subtle spice. Quite linear and precise, this is very youthful. Not as generous as some, but a lovely example. A blend of sub-regions.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de la Velle – 2007 (17.5). Superb nose. Creamy, with stonefruit. Lovely oak and lees integration. Superb fruit with marvellous texture. The finish falls away but will build with time. Pineapple develops on the close.

Philippe Chavy – Meursault – 1er Cru – Les Charmes – 2009 (18.5). Very closed. The palate is outstanding. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on. Very fine and creamy, the palate is almost seamless. Give it 5 years, but it will be superb.

Jean Marc Millot – Cote de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2009 (17). Lovely nose of ripe cherry and hints of strawberry. Vibrant palate of strawberry and spice. A degree of complexity on a fruit driven finish. Reasonable mouth-feel and good length.

Philippe Livera – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17). More complexity to the nose and palate. This has silky fruit. Not that dense, though the finish is fine and elegant.

Humbert Freres – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenot – 2009 (17.5). Dense, but very closed. Cherry, tar and spice all vie for attention on the palate. This has quite muscular tannins, but they are ripe and fine. Good oak and very good finish. Smart wine that will only get better!

Jean Marc Millot – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru Les Suchots – 2009 (18.2). Seductive, silky and mouth-filling. Spice, cedar, tar and cherry the main flavours. Everything there, but needs time to show its best. Remarkable length and persistence.

Jean Marc Millot – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18+). Pure seduction up front, though the very fine tannins build and shut down the finish. Will be a star, but I would like to see it in a year to see how it has come together.

Red Burgundy 2009

23 October 2011

The purpose of this tasting was to look at some pre-release samples from the excellent 2009 vintage. The challenge here is to look for the potential as many of the wines are quite immature. Thanks to Ross Laurence from Fine Wine Wholesalers for inviting me to be a part of the tasting.

Reviewed

Laurent Chardigny – Bourgogne – 2010 (15.8). Pretty nose of strawberry and cherry. Simple cherry fruit. Souring acidity adds freshness, but lacks vitality.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Some vanillin oak comes over the top of the red fruits. Plenty of red fruits underneath, but a more “serious” style. The palate is rich, dense and long. The fruit had real depth, and the wine has been made to last a few years. Good length and texture.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 1er Cru – Clos du Cras Long – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Again, sweet fruit and sweet vanillin/coconut oak. Quite immature and awkward. Chewy and textured, this needs time to come together. Will be good though.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Beaune Villages – 2009 (NR).

Domaine D’Ardhuy Beaune – Premier Cru – Champs Pimonts – 2009 (15.5). Cherry, but complex earthy notes. Salty/savoury edge to the palate, but again, not me. A rustic style.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Nuits – Villages – Clos des Langres – 2009 (16). A touch of pong here. Earthy, leathery notes dominate the nose. The palate is dry and unyielding. Old fashioned wine making that needs time. The rest of the groups favourite.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Savigny – 1er Cru – Les Peuillets – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Lovely nose here. More in the cherry spectrum, with hints of tar and aniseed. Aniseed and even a hint of pepper to the palate with good texture and intensity. Floral soap.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Corton Renardes – Grand Cru – 2009 (17.5+). Pretty red fruits. Spicy notes and quality, tight knit oak on the nose. This is an impressive wine of some substance. Real density. Needs years, but a very smart wine. The acidity really builds, so this should age well.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2009 (17). Better balance here and a lovely nose. Silky red fruits with berries and hints of savour plum. Perhaps a touch of oak on the finish, but this, and the fine fruit tannins make this excellent early consumption.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut Aloxe-Corton – Vieilles – Vignes – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Nice wine this. Feminine and seductive nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate. Not over-encumbered by oak, so easier to approach and understand now. Perfume, cherry and spice. Touch of cedary oak to close.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Corton – Grand Cru – Les Hautes Mourottes – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Closed. Has some menthol and spice. This is impressive, but just a baby. Silky, spice. Very elegant and refined, this is very classy. Chewy and savoury fruit to close, with nice balance.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Laoix – Clos Royer – 2009 (16.5). Red fruits to the fore. An attractive blend of red fruits and sour cherry. The palate is savoury, though the mouthwatering acidity makes it hard to evaluate.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Ladoix – 1er Cru – La Corvee – 2009 (17.5+). More of the sour cherry notes. With hints of savoury spice. Understated, but quite complex. The palate is dense and taught with the savoury tannins completely closing down the fruit. Very drying finish. Complex and persistent, this needs years, but is a very smart wine.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Mercury – Premier Cru – 2009 (16.5). Better balance to the oak here. Silky. Supple fruit that has a more savoury edge. Cherry and hints of plum over fine but assertive tannins. Quite light bodied and fine – drink 3 – 5 years.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Pommard – 2009 (17 – 17.5 ). A better blend of fresh fruit and complex, earthy aromas. A touch on the feral side for me, but many will love the leathery/savoury complexity with a touch of stewed rhubarb. Chewy, savoury palate that has some appeal. If you like your wines on the wild side.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton – 1er Cru – Clos du Chapitre – 2009 (17.5+). Again, a touch of earthiness here. Seductive red fruits and subtle spice to an appealing nose. The palate is flooded by dense, ripe fruit. The tannins are fine and the finish long and fine. Builds intensity. Very smart wine with real depth.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Auxey-Duresses Val – 1er Cru – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Unusual style that takes a bit of air to open up. Leathery, savoury notes of dark fruits, but the winemaking is good. Quite long, but rather closed on the palate.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Volnay – 2009 (17.5). An elegant wine of some note. Again, closed and shy, but there is a vein of peppery red fruits running through the palate. The tannins a firm but fine and the finish chewy and nicely weighted. Good persistence and length.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Nuits Saint Georges – 2009 (16.5+). Quite closed though there is lovely silky, spicy notes. This is savoury and a touch sappy. Simple fruit, but totally delicious drinking.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts – 2009 (18+). Pretty wine. This has lovely floral fruit, though the weight on the palate is impressive indeed. Very long, textured and beautifully weighted, this is both feminine and taught. The finish is finally shut down by extraordinarily fine tannins that really build. This is a great each way bet, as it is both delicious now, but has enough structure to age for ten or more years.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Chambolle Musigny – 2009 (17.5+). Lovely nose. More sour cherry than ripe fruit, this is a savoury wine that demands food. The palate is quite seamless, and the balance excellent. It just needs a year or two to open up.

Marchand – Grillot – Morey – Saint – Denis – 2009 (17.5). Cherry and berry fruit on the nose. The palate is where it is all happening. Mouth filling, savoury, supple and spicing. The tannins build on the finish, closing down the dense fruit. Long and fine, this is a classy wine. The texture is excellent and the fruit builds in the mouth. Chocolate to close.

Marchand – Grillot Gevrey – Chambertin – En Songe – 2009 (17). Closed and tight, this has plenty of potential. The palate however gives me a slight shudder as the balance is not there yet. Give it a year.

Vincent Ravaut – Chambolle-Musigny – 1er Cru – Les Baudes – 2009 (17.8 – 18.2). Closed and retiring. This is all potential. Lovely ripe fruits emerge from the structural shadows. The palate is silky and feminine and the intensity of the fruit is better than most here. Excellent length and the fruit builds. Very fine tannins and oak to close. Will be an excellent drink in 5 years.