Category Archives: Pinot Noir – Wine Reviews

Pinot Noir Benchmark Tasting

A Sommeliers Australia event

hosted by

Sam Badger and Lamont’s Cotesloe

Reviewed: 10 December 2012

This was an interesting tasting, with the 2010 wines from Australia showing well. In particular, the Provenence was a highlight. I was also very impressed by the Evesham Wood from Oregon. The highlight however, was the bracket of Burgundies. There were a couple of superb (if expensive) wines on show.

Christmas is around the corner and if there was one wine that I could have in my stocking, it would be the Mazi Chambertain from Harmand Geoffery. This is a spectacular wine by any measure and has a reminded me how good Burgundy can be.

Thanks again to Sam, Lamont’s and Sommeliers Australia.

Reviewed

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Deep colour compared to some here, perhaps reflecting the extra bottle age. Quite a meaty wine that lacks some floral prettiness initially, but this really opens up with air to reveal ripe strawberry fruit. On the palate, there is actually some pepper and spice. Good length, fine tannins and structured oak are all sympathetic, while the taut acid suits the style well. Long and fine close, this has an elegant structure. (Tasmania).

Ocean Eight – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.8). Very pale colour, though the wine is not crystal clear. Strawberry aromas to the fore with a touch of herbaceousness and soy. Very pretty fruit on a palate that is fresh and bright. Supple and textured, the long and savoury finish here is shut down by the tannins and oak. Experience suggests that this should fill out and deepen, both in colour and weight, over the next few years. (Mornington Peninsula).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Woori Yallock – 2010 (17.5 – 18). The nose is closed and unyielding right now. This has sappy, cherry fruit characters on the palate, the length is excellent and the structure well judged. Souring acidity adds to the wine and there are hints of fresh red plum and cedar to close. A lovely wine that will be at its best in 5 – 7 years. (Yarra Valley).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Fresh strawberry with hints of raspberry compote. The palate is a revelation, with dark cherry fruit, a touch of herbs and plenty of spice to close. The oak is firm, though complements the fruit, while the powdery tannins are fine and restrained. The depth and intensity of this wine makes it the standout in this bracket. Now to 10 years. (Geelong).

Pegasus Bay – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5). Fleshy fruit on the nose with plum and savoury notes too. The palate is fleshy, long and full of plump fruit. The tannins are slightly chalky which adds to the appeal. This is a very forward, approachable style with generous, sweet fruit and appealing structure. Of all the wines tasted, this is the wine that I would serve today if friends popped over as it is just so easy to drink. (Waipara).

Evesham Wood – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Tight red berries up-front here with a hint of violet perfume and even aniseed. The palate is bright and fresh, with a touch of oak and spice on display. Succulent and juicy, with excellent tannins and acid that really freshen up the finish. I like the way the acid and tannins cut through the fruit. With chewy/savoury characters to close, this wine grew on me. (Oregon).

Rippon – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18 – 18.5). I like this a lot. The nose is dense, though the fruit characters are hard to pin down. The palate is in the same mould and is silky, soft, textured, supple and long. There is density to the fruit, though again the flavour profile is hard to pin down. It was noted by some that this was the most complex wine on show from NZ, with a hint of truffle, mushroom, white pepper and savoury spice. Evolves and builds with air to show lovely texture. Great drinking now, but even better in 5 years.

Domaine de Montille – Volnay – 1er Cru -Pinot Noir – La Carelle – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Silky, sweet, perfumed, cherry-like fruit aromas to open. This is quite straightforward initially, though there is nice structure and the fruit develops in the glass and in the mouth. Supple and silky, this needs a few years to develop, but will offer plenty of drinking charm. A lovely spicy wine.

Domaine Harmand Geoffroy – Mazi Chambertin – Grand Cru – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5 – 19). An outstanding wine that combines lovely fruit with savoury, almost earthy characters in a dense and powerful package. The palate is unbelievably good, with intense fruit, superb structure and superb balance. The palate is near seamless and evolves for some time with a touch of chocolate developing over the cherry fruit. This fans out on the finish and develops a panoply of flavours. The fruit has absorbed the high-quality oak leaving the textural components rather than overt flavours. The length is truly outstanding. An amazingly powerful wine that could be drunk now or in ten years with pleasure.

Domaine Bonneau de Martray – Corton – Grand Cru – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5). Whilst closed on both the nose and palate, the fruit is ripe, in the attractive sour cherry spectrum, with a touch of savoury spice and plum. This is a savoury wine that relies more on texture than primary fruit to deliver impact. The finish is very long, powerful and dense and evolves for some time on the palate. The tannins are silky, yet slightly chewy to close. Whilst not as overtly powerful as the Mazi, this is like the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, as the latent power is palpable. Needs time to live up to its potential.

Domaine Meo Cazumet – Vosne Romanee – 1er Cru – Pinot Noir – Les Charmes – 2008 (18.5). The (sweet) oak is more apparent on both the nose and palate here. The fruit is very subdued now, but there is no doubting the quality of this wine. There is great intensity to the fruit and the palate evolves and builds for a long time. The fruit has great depth and power, though of all the wines here, this needs the most time to hit its peak. Angular, long, tannic, intense, powerful, textured and precise, this is an outstanding wine of great structure, but please be patient.

Giant Steps – 2011 Release

Reviewed: 17 September 2012

Giants Steps have been taking, well, giant steps in their pursuit of making wines that reflect the place in which the grapes are grown. With access to several excellent vineyards in the Yarra Valley, Steve Flamsteed has produced a superb range of wines that speak of the place where they were grown.

The current release of chardonnays and pinot noirs are from the 2011 vintage. This was a very cold and wet vintage that presented numerous challenges in the vineyard and winery. Properly managed, it is clear that the vintage has produced some excellent wines, albeit in a finer, more elegant style to the 2010s. I expect that in the longer term, the 2011’s from Giant Steps will be fantastic.

The Chardonnays saw 20% new oak, plenty of lees stirring and, in 2011, had only partial malo-lactic fermentation.They are lean and elegant. The pinots are feminine, subtle and supple. They are light bodied now, but experience has shown that with 5 – 10 years in the bottle, these will flesh out and build depth. Quantities of all wines are very limited, so I suggest trying your favourite bottle shop soon.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so as usual, my points are for indication purposes only.

Reviewed

Giant Steps – Viognier – Mule – 2011 (17). Apricot and citrus aromas with hints of honey. The palate balances gentle viscosity and texture with fresh acidity that imbues the finish with real drive. Good length of flavour in a leaner style that works really well. Picked earlier to retain crispness, this is a good alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Really creamy and fine, with cashew nut complexity and a lovely mineral core. Hints of lanolin over elegant melon fruit. Stone-fruit on the finish combines with texturing oak and fine acidity to confer excellent length. An elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2011 (18.2). Perhaps the most complete of the three 2011 chardonnays. On the nose there is nutty minerality, whilst the fruit on the palate has real thrust and drive. The balance and length are highlights. The fine minerality is a key component to the finish while the oak and lees characters are a mere whisper on the finish. An excellent wine of real class, this will be even better in 3 – 5 years.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Arthurs Creek Vineyard – 2011 (17.5). Slightly richer fruit on the nose. Again, there is lovely creamy notes over delicate fruit aromas. The palate is more forward with strong minerality over subtle fruit. The winemaking influences are less obvious, making this better drinking today. The length is a standout. This should age well also.

Giant Steps – Sangiovese – Mule – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit. Has authentic characters, but a degree of fleshiness courtesy its new world origins. Good length and juicy fruit make this a good drink now.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8+). Light strawberry hue reflecting the vintage conditions. With cherry and subtle strawberry and spice aromas, this is quite perfumed and evolves in the glass. The palate is firm and austere right now, but the fruit and tannins have an attractive degree of ripeness. An elegant, feminine wine that finishes with tarry complexity. The structure, mouth-feel and length are excellent and the finish is slightly chewy. This really needs a year or two to settle down and open up.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Gladysdale Vineyard – 2011 (18). If anything, even lighter than the Sexton. Complex, pepper and spice, with precise textural components. Elegant fruit on the palate leads on to a textured finish. This really is very long and fine. Subtle and supple, this is very feminine, but still has a degree of power to the fruit. Needs a few years to flesh out, but patience will be rewarded. Burgundian in style.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2011 (18.5). Delicate colour here. More intensity to the fruit on the nose, with more overt cherry aromas on display. This is a lovely wine in the mouth! The texture and mouth-feel are superb. The fruit is remarkably intense on the finish for such a delicate wine and the length is notable. Evolves and builds with air, developing a chewy texture from ripe, though firm tannins and supple oak. Good now, but even better in 5 years.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2010 (18). Wow, the increased fruit intensity and density comes as a shock after the refined and elegant 2011. Spice and smoky notes on the nose over dense red fruits. Much richer in the mouth than the 2010, with firmer tannins on the chewy, textured finish. Good length, but lacks the ultimate balance of the 2011.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Harry’s Monster – 2010 (18-18.5). With all the hype about pinot, it is easy to forget just how good Yarra Valley cabernet can be. The wine is closed, but hints at its potential. The fruit is ripe, taut, dense, very finely structured and superbly long. Textured, this has fine tannins and the quality oak has been expertly managed. Ripe tannins are a highlight. Will live for a long time.

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed: 10 May 2012

We started this tasting with a couple of sparkling wines that are worth trying. Both are very well made and the Patricia is an excellent sparkling wine regardless of Origin. Whilst the wine is stylistically slightly different to Champagne, it is in no way inferior to many NV champagnes on the Australian market today.

Tasting the pinot bracket was an excellent exercise. In some ways, it could just have easily been labelled the Steve Webber Tasting as the De Bortoli, Chalk Board, Riorret and Phi were all made under his control. Interestingly, the last three are all from the 2008 vintage. I elected not to include the Riorret or Phi in this review, but they are worth trying if you are a pinot tragic. (Though they are not cheap).

The star of the tasting was the Shaw and Smith. This is one of the best Adelaide Hills pinots that I can remember. The De Bortoli is also worth a mention. From a value point of view, the Central Otago Chalk Board is a spectacular buy. Real pinot noir for $15 per bottle.

Reviewed

Brown Brothers – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Patricia – 2006 (17.8). Complex, creamy, delicate and refined, this has a lovely nose. There is also fresh brioche and red fruit notes. The palate is creamy, with a lovely balance between freshness and autolysis characters. Very long and persistent, this is an excellent aperitif style. Not obviously Champagne-like, but an excellent sparkling wine.

Lake Barrington Estate –Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Alexandria – 2008 (17). A much more linear wine that has a very youthful outlook. Quite predominant chardonnay characters lead on to a firm and powerful finish, with excellent acidity. Lingers. Not as complex as the Patricia yet, but easy to like. (This may well improve with another year or so in the bottle).

Shaw and Smith – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). A delicious nose showing lovely bright cherry fruit with strawberry highlights. Earthy, forest floor characters over sour cherry and hints of aniseed on a structured palate. A complex, if somewhat youthful wine that has excellent length and persistence. Develops nicely with air. A superb Australian pinot that deserves a home in many of our cellars!

De Bortoli – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.6). Deep smelling and pure, with subtle fruit and oak on the nose. The palate has finesse and charm with bright red fruits over earthy characters. Good length and excellent persistence, this should do very well over the next 5 years. Opens to show sour cherry fruit, silky tannins and excellent length.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.3). Dense and attractive. This is a complex wine of great substance. Cherry and spice on the nose are followed by a palate that is long, succulent and juicy. Quite seamless and textured, this is a pretty wine that will provide drinking joy over the next few years.

Galafrey – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17). Pretty strawberry and spice aromas, without quite as much depth as the superstars right now. The palate is excellent, with chewy, textural components over quite complex fruit. One to watch.

Chalk Board – Pinot Noir – Central Otago – 2010 (17). A complex wine that has all the traits of quality pinot. Dark cherry fruit combines with quality oak and silky tannins on the palate. A little raw on the finish now, this is going to do very well over the next 5 years. Exclusive to Vintage Cellars and made by Peregrine.

Ballewindi – Pinot Noir – 2010 (16.9). Meatier/earthy style with plum, dark berry and pretty strawberry highlights. Nothing out of place, just not overtly pinot in style. In fact, this is an excellent dry red wine showing plum and dark berry fruit. Will improve.

Chalk Board – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2008 (16.5). Open and enticing nose showing the benefit of a few years in bottle. Bright and forward fruit on the palate. Not particularly complex or long, but an enjoyable drink. Made by De Bortoli and exclusive to Vintage Cellars.

“Australasia’s Best Pinots”

Reviewed: 19 April 2012

Sometimes you just get lucky. And so it was when I was asked to help run this tasting down at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. This is a tasting that really lived up to its title. There were no bad wines in the tasting, though a couple did not make it to this review.

What was apparent, was the diversity of styles on offer. From the feminine wines like the Felton Road “Block 5” and Nautilus, to the very muscular and powerful styles typified by the Yerring Station.

Of the 16 people in the room, 8 voted for the Nautilus as their wine of the night. At $40 per bottle, this was also one of the cheapest wines in the tasting. Great praise indeed.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2006 (18.6). I think I am in love with this wine. There is everything here. Powerful, though restrained fruit, superb texture, great winemaking and noticeable, though sympathetic oak. A superb wine that goes on and on. Not yet peaked, but so seductive now. Brilliant!

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18.5). Muscular and structured, there is a surprising degree of restraint to what is a very powerful wine. Almost a touch reductive to start, this has it all. The saying, Iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind. The most burgundian to date, with superb structure and length. A concentrated wine for the patient.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2009 (18.5). Substantial wine. Taut, muscular and structured, this requires a leap of faith or a lot of air. Opens to show great depth and the proverbial peacock’s tail finish. Subtlety at its finest.

Martinborough Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5). Superb nose that has spice, leather and earthy notes combined with pristine fruit. The palate is a revelation; subtle, fine, refined, long, elegant, balanced and persistent. Why Martinborough should make more pinot.

Phi – Pinot Noir – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). A more generous and approachable nose. The palate is silky, seamless, round and balanced. The balance really is the key here! The length is outstanding and, again, the flavours really build. Has an ethereal quality that defies labelling.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2008 (18.5). Oh so elegant and seductive, this has it all. Superb fruit and excellent winemaking combine to make this a real star. The fruit is deceptive as the finish builds astringency, as well as dark cherry fruit characters. Mouth-watering finish.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2010 (18.4). Complete nose. Very fine and subtle, this is hard to review late in the tasting! Elegant and silky, with ripe fruit and excellent oak handling. This is a superb wine that is very long and very fine.

Dalrypmple – Pinot Noir – Block T36 – 2009 (18.3). Combination of meaty, savoury notes and brambly fruit. Super-sweet fruit on the palate with a finish that is near seamless. Really fans out and builds both complexity and depth on the finish. Remarkable tannins to close.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Calvert – 2009 (18.2). More muscular than the Phi with a more savoury take on the fruit. The palate is pristine and precise, with excellent line and length. Subtle complexity on a finish that is defined by remarkably silky and fine tannins. Again, the power builds on the finish.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2007 (18.1). Sweet fruit and oak to the fore here showing a remarkably different nose to the 2008. Silky and seductive, but with a spine of ripe fruit. The finish is a touch more astringent, but should evolve.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Pipe Clay Terrace – 2009 (18+). Very shy and reserved. All the ingredients are in place, but this needs time to come together. The fruit is very fine, but the muscular structure shuts down the palate. No rough edges, just latent power.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Long Gully – 2009 (18+). A more muscular style from this producer. Everything is in place, but it needs to integrate. Very long!

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Sweet fruit with oak highlights. Superb wine that combines layers of flavour with a silky texture. Impressive length and silky tannins. The acid carries the finish beautifully. Different, but a great drink.

Clos Henri – Pinot Noir – 2008 (18). Brick-red colour. Lifted, fragrant, red berry fruit dominates the nose. The palate has cherry and spice to the fore, with hints of truffle and an earthy finish. Lovely fruit weight and texture on a finish that is very long and very fine. A bigger, more forward style that offers great drinking.

Quartz Reef – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2005 (18). Subdued nose. Very powerful fruit on the palate but I initially questioned the absolute balance. Then again, the length of the finish is outstanding, with tar, sour cherry and earthy flavours.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Muscular, though reserved on the nose. The palate has a core of ripe, sweet fruit, but the very fine tannins and tight-knit oak serve to dampen the expression. Long and textured, this is more Gevrey than Vosne. Give it a few years to shine.

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Te Muna Road – 2010 (17.8+). A superb wine. Fragrant cherry and gentle spice with hints of truffle and earthy notes. Very delicate and subtle, this is a very feminine and elegant wine that will only get better in the short term.

Nautilus – Pinot Noir – Marlborough – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant, gentle and elegant, this is very approachable and totally delicious. The wine is deceptive though, as there is excellent structure and the fruit builds power. A good each-way bet and the people’s choice for best wine of the night. Good value at around $40.

Red Burgundy

Reviewed: 30 November 2011

When I was asked to help out at a Burgundy tasting hosted by Loren White, I was happy to oblige. The fact that I was in Adelaide on the morning of the tasting when I was asked was a minor hurdle, but I made sure that I was back in time. Loren is one of the true intellects of wine. Not only does he have a superb palate, he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Burgundy (and wine in general). I would go as far as to say that he is probably the best that I know.

The wines were good to excellent, though ultimately burgundy is never cheap.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Plum, cherry, and hints of tar to what is a surprisingly structured nose. The palate is dense, quite structured and long, with chewy tannins to close. Better than the Bourgogne status would indicate.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2008 (16.5). Open and round, with simple, sweet fruit. A straightforward wine that is juicy and easy to drink.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17.2). Fragrant, ripe and seductive, with forward fruit balanced by silky tannins and a touch of oak. Good length and reasonable texture make this an attractive drink.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (16.8). Nice nose here that is fragrant and ripe. Not that concentrated, but well made.

Philippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17.3) This has plenty of up-front fruit, though it is a more muscular style. The palate is firm yet silky, with impressive length. Again, not that dense, but enjoyable.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Cote de Nuits Vilages – 2009 (17.2). A taut and closed wine that will need a year or two to open up.

Domaine De La Vougeraie – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (17.5+). A more traditional nose that has hints of medicinal notes and a touch of stalkiness that does not detract. The palate leads off with sour cherry fruit and really builds with air. Very good length and texture. Old fashioned? Sure, but this is an enjoyable Burgundy.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Vosne Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Suchots – 2009 (18). A lovely wine that is both complex and seductive. The nose is redolent of cherry, spice, tar and forest floor notes, all over bright red fruit. The palate is chewy and dense, while the fruit is quite closed. I like this.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Murgers – 2009 (NR). A bad bottle.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Damodes – 2009 (18+). Another lovely nose here that is seductive and surprisingly feminine. Fresh fruit abounds on a vibrant palate that has lovely souring acidity to complement the cherry fruit. Great length and persistence.

Humbert Freres – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenots – 2009 (17.5). A wine in two parts. The nose is perfumed and fresh, with cherry, tar and berry notes. The palate is long, though it is quite lean and angular at present. Like many wines from this commune, this should flesh out with time and score higher points when it does.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Fonteny – 2009 (18). The nose on this is very closed and hints at earthy notes. The palate however is a revelation. The fruit is fine and refined, though the plentiful (ripe) tannins completely shut down the finish. Needs years to show its best, but may well be a star.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Corton Grancey – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). A powerful wine that retains its elegance. Although structured and closed, this is silky, supple and very long. The palate is all about potential. The finish is near seamless, and there is the first signs of the fruit fanning out on a very fine finish.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). There is a richness to the fruit here that has real appeal. This is very powerful, though there is a freshness to the fruit that imbues life into the wine. Whilst the palate is very closed, the quality is obvious. More delicate than the other two Grand Crus, this is also more delicious now.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Chambertin Clos de Beze – Grand Cru – 2009 (18/18.5+). Fruit, oak, winemaking… everything about this wine speaks quality but the wine has not come together yet. Really closed and tight, this may well be the best wine here. It will, however, take 20 years to find out. (I will never know, as this is frightfully expensive).

Red and White Burgundy

New Release

Reviewed: 23 November 2011

 

Some smart young wines on show here. For a list of stockists, contact Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveat applies: My points are an indication only.

Reviewed

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2009 (16.5). Appealing mineral and flint, with a little honey. Quite developed, with peachy fruit. Not overly long or complex, but satisfying.

Philippe Chavy – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Lovely nose with stonefruit that is ripe yet focussed. Impressive wine. There are hints of pineapple and smoky match strike, with fresh fruit to close. Quite linear in the palate, this is an enjoyable wine with stonefruit on a creamy finish.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chablis – 1er Cru – Cote de Lechet – 2008 (18). Wow, lovely nose. This really sucks you in. Minerals to the fore, with flint, match strike and wet pebble. The density of fruit here is remarkable. Long and fine, this has really pure fruit. Still quite young and closed, there is real potential here. A fine wine and classic Chablis.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2009 (17.5). More honey here, peach and apricot with subtle spice. Quite linear and precise, this is very youthful. Not as generous as some, but a lovely example. A blend of sub-regions.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de la Velle – 2007 (17.5). Superb nose. Creamy, with stonefruit. Lovely oak and lees integration. Superb fruit with marvellous texture. The finish falls away but will build with time. Pineapple develops on the close.

Philippe Chavy – Meursault – 1er Cru – Les Charmes – 2009 (18.5). Very closed. The palate is outstanding. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on. Very fine and creamy, the palate is almost seamless. Give it 5 years, but it will be superb.

Jean Marc Millot – Cote de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2009 (17). Lovely nose of ripe cherry and hints of strawberry. Vibrant palate of strawberry and spice. A degree of complexity on a fruit driven finish. Reasonable mouth-feel and good length.

Philippe Livera – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17). More complexity to the nose and palate. This has silky fruit. Not that dense, though the finish is fine and elegant.

Humbert Freres – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenot – 2009 (17.5). Dense, but very closed. Cherry, tar and spice all vie for attention on the palate. This has quite muscular tannins, but they are ripe and fine. Good oak and very good finish. Smart wine that will only get better!

Jean Marc Millot – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru Les Suchots – 2009 (18.2). Seductive, silky and mouth-filling. Spice, cedar, tar and cherry the main flavours. Everything there, but needs time to show its best. Remarkable length and persistence.

Jean Marc Millot – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18+). Pure seduction up front, though the very fine tannins build and shut down the finish. Will be a star, but I would like to see it in a year to see how it has come together.

Red Burgundy 2009

23 October 2011

The purpose of this tasting was to look at some pre-release samples from the excellent 2009 vintage. The challenge here is to look for the potential as many of the wines are quite immature. Thanks to Ross Laurence from Fine Wine Wholesalers for inviting me to be a part of the tasting.

Reviewed

Laurent Chardigny – Bourgogne – 2010 (15.8). Pretty nose of strawberry and cherry. Simple cherry fruit. Souring acidity adds freshness, but lacks vitality.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Some vanillin oak comes over the top of the red fruits. Plenty of red fruits underneath, but a more “serious” style. The palate is rich, dense and long. The fruit had real depth, and the wine has been made to last a few years. Good length and texture.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 1er Cru – Clos du Cras Long – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Again, sweet fruit and sweet vanillin/coconut oak. Quite immature and awkward. Chewy and textured, this needs time to come together. Will be good though.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Beaune Villages – 2009 (NR).

Domaine D’Ardhuy Beaune – Premier Cru – Champs Pimonts – 2009 (15.5). Cherry, but complex earthy notes. Salty/savoury edge to the palate, but again, not me. A rustic style.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Nuits – Villages – Clos des Langres – 2009 (16). A touch of pong here. Earthy, leathery notes dominate the nose. The palate is dry and unyielding. Old fashioned wine making that needs time. The rest of the groups favourite.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Savigny – 1er Cru – Les Peuillets – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Lovely nose here. More in the cherry spectrum, with hints of tar and aniseed. Aniseed and even a hint of pepper to the palate with good texture and intensity. Floral soap.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Corton Renardes – Grand Cru – 2009 (17.5+). Pretty red fruits. Spicy notes and quality, tight knit oak on the nose. This is an impressive wine of some substance. Real density. Needs years, but a very smart wine. The acidity really builds, so this should age well.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2009 (17). Better balance here and a lovely nose. Silky red fruits with berries and hints of savour plum. Perhaps a touch of oak on the finish, but this, and the fine fruit tannins make this excellent early consumption.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut Aloxe-Corton – Vieilles – Vignes – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Nice wine this. Feminine and seductive nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate. Not over-encumbered by oak, so easier to approach and understand now. Perfume, cherry and spice. Touch of cedary oak to close.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Corton – Grand Cru – Les Hautes Mourottes – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Closed. Has some menthol and spice. This is impressive, but just a baby. Silky, spice. Very elegant and refined, this is very classy. Chewy and savoury fruit to close, with nice balance.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Laoix – Clos Royer – 2009 (16.5). Red fruits to the fore. An attractive blend of red fruits and sour cherry. The palate is savoury, though the mouthwatering acidity makes it hard to evaluate.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Ladoix – 1er Cru – La Corvee – 2009 (17.5+). More of the sour cherry notes. With hints of savoury spice. Understated, but quite complex. The palate is dense and taught with the savoury tannins completely closing down the fruit. Very drying finish. Complex and persistent, this needs years, but is a very smart wine.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Mercury – Premier Cru – 2009 (16.5). Better balance to the oak here. Silky. Supple fruit that has a more savoury edge. Cherry and hints of plum over fine but assertive tannins. Quite light bodied and fine – drink 3 – 5 years.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Pommard – 2009 (17 – 17.5 ). A better blend of fresh fruit and complex, earthy aromas. A touch on the feral side for me, but many will love the leathery/savoury complexity with a touch of stewed rhubarb. Chewy, savoury palate that has some appeal. If you like your wines on the wild side.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton – 1er Cru – Clos du Chapitre – 2009 (17.5+). Again, a touch of earthiness here. Seductive red fruits and subtle spice to an appealing nose. The palate is flooded by dense, ripe fruit. The tannins are fine and the finish long and fine. Builds intensity. Very smart wine with real depth.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Auxey-Duresses Val – 1er Cru – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Unusual style that takes a bit of air to open up. Leathery, savoury notes of dark fruits, but the winemaking is good. Quite long, but rather closed on the palate.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Volnay – 2009 (17.5). An elegant wine of some note. Again, closed and shy, but there is a vein of peppery red fruits running through the palate. The tannins a firm but fine and the finish chewy and nicely weighted. Good persistence and length.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Nuits Saint Georges – 2009 (16.5+). Quite closed though there is lovely silky, spicy notes. This is savoury and a touch sappy. Simple fruit, but totally delicious drinking.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts – 2009 (18+). Pretty wine. This has lovely floral fruit, though the weight on the palate is impressive indeed. Very long, textured and beautifully weighted, this is both feminine and taught. The finish is finally shut down by extraordinarily fine tannins that really build. This is a great each way bet, as it is both delicious now, but has enough structure to age for ten or more years.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Chambolle Musigny – 2009 (17.5+). Lovely nose. More sour cherry than ripe fruit, this is a savoury wine that demands food. The palate is quite seamless, and the balance excellent. It just needs a year or two to open up.

Marchand – Grillot – Morey – Saint – Denis – 2009 (17.5). Cherry and berry fruit on the nose. The palate is where it is all happening. Mouth filling, savoury, supple and spicing. The tannins build on the finish, closing down the dense fruit. Long and fine, this is a classy wine. The texture is excellent and the fruit builds in the mouth. Chocolate to close.

Marchand – Grillot Gevrey – Chambertin – En Songe – 2009 (17). Closed and tight, this has plenty of potential. The palate however gives me a slight shudder as the balance is not there yet. Give it a year.

Vincent Ravaut – Chambolle-Musigny – 1er Cru – Les Baudes – 2009 (17.8 – 18.2). Closed and retiring. This is all potential. Lovely ripe fruits emerge from the structural shadows. The palate is silky and feminine and the intensity of the fruit is better than most here. Excellent length and the fruit builds. Very fine tannins and oak to close. Will be an excellent drink in 5 years.

Pinot Noir – Victoria and Tasmania

University Wine Society

Reviewed 7 July 2011

The University Wine Society meets once per month to conduct themed wine tastings. For many years now, it has been expertly run by Andrew Baird. Andrew has a fine palate and a life-long passion for wine. So when I heard that Andrew was presenting a tasting of Victorian and Tasmanian pinot noirs, I was keen to attend.

The highlights of the tasting were the wines from Paringa Estate and the Paradigm Hill. The Peninsula pinot noir from Paringa in particular represents fine value. As is my policy, only the best wines are reviewed on this page.

Reviewed

Paradigm Hill – Pinot Noir – L’ami Sage – 2008 (18.2). Quite dumb and closed in comparison to the rest of the bracket. Lean and angular, this is just a baby. Firm, muscular and tannic, everything is in place for this wine, it just needs 5 years to start to open up. With air, this wine develops lovely perfume and bright cherry fruit. The tannins are fine and very silky and the finish is relatively seamless.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Estate – 2007 (18+). Limpid. This has a focus to the nose that is arresting. Hints of cherry, Satsuma plum, tobacco and spice. The palate follows suit with a linear and precise delivery. Everything is in place, it just needs time to blossom.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2008. (17.9). More complexity and density of fruit compared to the Praxis (Moorilla). Lovely cherry fruit on the nose. This has high quality fruit that is silky and supple. This has been really well made. The oak is deftly handled and the sappy notes on the finish add interest and intensity. A lovely feminine wine with excellent length.

Moorilla – Pinot Noir – Muse – 2007 (17.7+). Dense and quite meaty, with a lovely palate. Yes the fruit is ripe, but there is lovely fruit weight. The finish is slightly chewy, yet the tannins are very refined and polished. Mouth-feel and texture are spot on and the length is a highlight. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and will score higher marks in the future.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 2006 (16.9). Structured and firm. A firm and tannic wine that has some resemblance to claret, with a hint of mint, eucalypt and spice. A leaner wine that should evolve over the next few years.

Moorilla – Pinot Noir – Praxis – 2008 (16.8). A touch stalky, but good cherry fruit, strawberry and subtle spice too. Fresh and vibrant fruit on the palate, with lovely souring acidity. Not overly concentrated but enjoyable. The fleshy fruit makes up for the lack of concentration.

Pinot Noir and Cabernet

New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).

Pinot Noir To Drink Now

Reviewed 2 April 2011

Our “Last Sunday” tasting group met a week late but the quality of the evening more than compensated. This was much more than a mere tasting, it was a sensory delight. As usual, the wines were fantastic, but, even better, Robyn and Loren prepared a series of superb dishes to accompany the wines.

The theme was pinot noirs that were ready to drink. As with all wine, this is open to individual interpretation, but most of the wines were from the early to mid 2000s.

Reviewed

Main Divide – Pinot Noir – 2004 (18.4). Lovely nose. The wine is dense, rich, ripe and textured. On the palate, this is textured, dense, long, ripe and powerful. Obviously pinot, but this is richer and riper than most. Not Burgundian in style, but very impressive.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2003 (18.3). Quite cold initially. Dense and tight, this has great fruit quality. There are earthy notes, with forest floor. The intensity of the fruit is fantastic and there is real depth to the palate with excellent texture. Very long, this is a treat.

Cristom – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2002 (18). A nervy wine that developed power in the glass. This has real interest. The savoury fruit notes are a treat. We had this with Lauren’s superb lamb dish – this is an excellent food wine!

Road 13 – Pinot Noir – 2007 (18). Greater fruit density here, with a lovely complex nose. Cherry, tar, spice, clove, cinnamon and slightly grippy tannins. An impressive wine that is a very good drink.

Main Ridge – Pinot Noir – The Acre – 2001 (17.6). More vegetative style. This is a complex wine with a lot going on. There is not a lot of primary fruit, but with food this is good. The finish is a touch smoky with a little bit of bacon fat.

Domaine Caillot – Chardonnay – Mearsualt – Le Limozin – 2004 (17.7). Creamy nose and palate. Very supple with a silky mouth-feel. The creamy oak is well judged. This is surprisingly tight and fresh and could take another few years in the cellar. (This was the warm up wine).

Akarua – Pinot Noir – 2007 (17.6). More complex than some here, this is a rich, dense and powerful wine. This is still youthful and very tight. Long, and supple, this is a very good red wine that should improve in the bottle.

Calera – Pinot Noir – Jensen Vineyard – 1999 (17.5). Smoke, tar, rubber, earthy. Rich and generous, the mouth-feel. is lovely. Builds in the mouth, with silky tannins and real length. Aged, there is a touch of cold tea to close.

Domaine Fourrier – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2002 (17.5). A touch earthy, this is quite seductive. Silky in the mouth, with sour plum and cherry fruit. Not generous, but should develop well. Long and supple, this is an excellent wine.

Jean-Michel Guillon – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertin – Les Crais – 2003 (17.5). Slightly turbid. Denser fruit, with good complexity. There is an earthy note, with aniseed, tar and smoke courtesy of the oak. Mature, this I a lovely drink.

Mongeard-Mugneret – Pinot Noir – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Petits Monts – 2001 (17.5). Limpid in the glass. Fragrant and juicy fruit with some appeal. A lighter style that is defined by fresh red fruits and minimal interventions. Long and supple.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2005 (17.5). Starts off very bright and pretty, but develops depth of flavour and richness in the glass. Pretty fruit, this wine has developed a degree of complexity that makes it excellent drinking now. There is juicy cherry fruit with a touch of meatiness. The balance is spot on. Meaty. At half the price of the “Estate”, this represents excellent value.

Stefano Lubiano – Pinot Noir – Primavera – 2009 (17.4). Perfumed, with strawberry and cherry fruit. Silky, fresh and juicy, this is a pleasant drink. A good effort for an entry level wine.