Tag Archives: Chardonnay

Chardonnay & Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed 18 June 2011

The chardonnay bracket was one of the strongest that the panel can remember. The semillon and SB wines were also pretty smart. All in all, one of the more memorable tastings with a higher than usual success rate.

Highlights for me were the Mt Horricks semillon and many of the chardonnays. If I had to pick one, it would be the Brookland Valley. Perhaps this is not quite as great as the Leeuwin, Heytsebury and Xanadu, but it is a sheer joy to drink now and over the next five years.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008 (18/18.7). Remarkably similar to a Sauzet Puligny Montrachet that I was lucky enough to drink last weekend. Very restrained and tight, though the acid is exhilarating. Hints of stonefruit to what is a smart wine. Lots of minerals and textural components to close, including some very fine oak tannins. After one day, this started to get some flesh on the mid palate. After two, it showed a treat. As with all Leeuwin Estate chardonnays, this will age well. Indeed, this wine demands to be cellared for at least 5 – 10 years to even approach its peak.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytsebury – 2009. (18 – 18.5). Mineral, slate and a touch of match strike. Curry leaf, vanillin oak and creamy texture on the palate. A wine that has had all the treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging, malo-lactic fermentation). Powerful and complex, this is a wine with great length. The powerful fruit makes this a great drink now or over the next 5 years.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18.3). A touch more nervous energy in this wine. Superb quality fruit and excellent wine-making have combined to make a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit has intensity and power, but this is held in check by the tight knit oak and pineapple acidity. A seamless palate with tremendous length. This received extra marks for being an excellent drink!

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Closest in style to the Leeuwin Estate. Curry leaf, flint and mineral notes on the nose with pineapple undertones. The palate is lovely, with intense fruit, seamless oak and a silky palate. The balance here is the key. There is an undercurrent of stonefruit on a wine that is complex and well worked. Needs 5 years to show its best.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18). A superb nose that is complex, yet full of life. Creamy, peachy fruit, with just a hint of curry leaf that signals quality. Lemony oak dominates the fruit on the palate, but this is a very tight and fresh wine. Look for grapefruit and pineapple with citrus acid to close. Give it a few years to watch it blossom as this became quite expressive as it opened.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and dumb at present. A good wine, with no rough edges, just lacks the excitement of the Estate. Good length and quality fruit. Light, fresh and elegant, with granny smith texture on a very long palate. A well made wine that is tight and lean in a contemporary style.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.7). Closed and tight, yet there is no questioning the quality of this wine. Lemony fruit with hints of sherbet and tropical fruit. The oak is subtle and adds finesse to the close. Good drinking without being over the top, this wine held its own in a big bracket!

S/SB

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2010 (17.7). Creamy and quite delicious. Honey, vanilla and lemony fruit, with a hint of crème caramel. On the palate, this is a powerful wine that has been given royal treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging). Creamy and textured, with lovely lemony fruit that runs to the end of the palate.

Carpe Diem – Sauvignon Blanc – Schiaffo – 2010 (17). A very interesting wine that is not your typical Margaret River SB. More golden in colour, this has lanolin and vanillin oak notes to open. Lemony and tight, the palate is near seamless. Slight char to the oak is apparent on the finish. A quality wine that needs a year or two to settle down. Try instead of chardonnay.

Stella Bella – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite pungent fruit on the nose reflecting the cooler southern end of the Margaret River region. Lychee, passionfruit, lantana and tropical notes on the nose. Plenty of acid on the palate with good length and intensity. Smart.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2010 (17+). As the name suggests, made in a different style to most Australian SBs. This has seen 8 months in oak. Complex nose and palate that has creamy lees characters and a touch of toast from the oak. Has a passing resemblance to White Bordeaux. An interesting wine that is worth trying.

Drakesbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.8). A touch more creamy than some, which is suggestive of some lees contact. (None mentioned on the label). The palate is bright, grassy and zesty, with good mouth-feel and length. An approachable wine that is good current drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2010 (16.8). A fairly mainstream example of this blend. Starts of quite closed, but develops grassy/tropical notes with air. Lemon brullee on the palate. Very tight and a touch austere right now, this is a wine that could do with a year in bottle to settle down. Not overly complex, but nice zesty lemon fruit, good length and refreshing acidity.

Chardonnay – New Release Tasting

Reviewed – 30 April 2011

Chardonnay continues to present a conundrum for me. The modern style of wine-making that I have discussed before is definitely my preferred style. The problem is that the wines tend to be so fresh and restrained, that it is hard to properly enjoy them when they are young. Combine this with the widespread use of screw cap and you have many wines that need some cellaring to bring out their best.

Ultimately, the result will be better wines for those who can keep them tucked away for a few years. Fortunately, the use of screw caps probably makes it easier to have a wine in good condition at the other end of the process. It takes a leap of faith to cellar chardonnay, so at least give the wines plenty of air in the glass and see how they evolve.

Reviewed

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2009 (17.5). Lemony fruit with plenty of zippy acidity. There are quality wine-making inputs with clever oak and some barrel ferment notes. Whilst this is restrained, tight and zesty, it should evolve over the next few years.

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5). More interest here and quite a worked style. There is creamy oak with a buttery texture. The fruit is expressed in the peach spectrum. Lovely mouth-feel, with a creamy textured finish courtesy of the slightly charry oak. Needs time for the fruit to fully express itself, but a smart wine.

Voyager Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3+). Very subdued initially on the nose. Builds in the mouth with quality fruit and oak. Needs time to show its best, but is a pretty smart wine overall.

Angove – Chardonnay – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.2). Creamy and very classy nose with plenty of stonefruit. There is white fleshed peach and a touch of nectarine. The oak grip is a touch firm on the palate, but this quickly settled in the glass. This is a bigger, richer style that is quite complete. Great value drinking over the next year or two.

Fire Gully – Chardonnay – 2008 (17+). Fresh, almost fragrant, talc aromas. Fresh and vibrant, though the structural components are a touch disjointed at present. Good oak and excellent length. This is a modern style that really fleshed out after being open for a day, developing powerful pineapple fruit aromas.

Shingleback – Chardonnay – 2010 (17). Fresher fruit on the nose. Fresh and vibrant, with creamy cashew nut textural notes. Not overtly concentrated, and there is only a mere whisper of the pretty oak on the finish. A well rounded and generous wine that has plenty of appeal.

Seppelt – Chardonnay – Grampians 2009 (16.7+). Quite rich, round and balanced. Buttery, almost lanolin. The palate is surprisingly lean by comparison, with an acid structure more akin to chablis. All components are in place, but this needs several years to approach its best.

Umamu – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.5). A pleasant wine with gentle stonefruit aromas and a hint of oak to fill out the middle palate. Very youthful for a six year old wine.

Andrew Peace – Semillon/Colombard/Chardonnay – Peace by Peace – 2010 (15.5). An inoffensive generic dry white. This should be available for under $5:00.

Chablis

University Wine Society

7 March 2011

For many years, Andrew Baird has been coordinating the tastings for the University Wine Society. The tastings are always informative and entertaining. When the presenter from this month’s tasting became unavailable, he managed to convince John Jens to present a snapshot of Chablis. John has been a good friend to the society for many years, and pulled out all the stops to make this a memorable evening.

Chablis is a sub-region of the Burgundy region in France. The principal grape variety used is chardonnay. An interesting dimension to Chablis is the attitude towards the use of oak. Historically, all but the best wines were un-oaked, but over the last two decades, there has been a gradual increase in oak use to the point where even some generic chablis have oak influences.

There are several designators of quality that are dependent on the location of the vineyards used to grow the grapes. The lowest appellation is Petite Chablis. This is followed by Chablis, Premier Cru (1er Cru) and Grand Cru. There are numerous different vineyards that have premier or Grand Cru status and these sub-regions are mentioned on the label. For example, the Christian Moreau – Chardonnay – Vaillons – 1er Cru is from the Vaillons region. This region has a 1er Cru appellation.

Overall, this was a fantastic tasting that highlighted the quality and diversity of the wines of Chablis.

The wines are reviewed in the order tasted.

Reviewed

Christian Moreau – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis – 2008 (16.75). More expressive fruit. The balance here is the key. Lovely expression of fruit in the mouth. No rough edges to this wine.

Sylvian Mosnier – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis – 2008 (16.5). More restrained nose. Creamy mouth-feel with gentle mineral and nutty notes. Lovely mouth-feel and texture on a creamy, long and almost chewy palate.

Simonnet Febvre – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis – 2008 (16.4). Creamy and textured, but with a touch of curry leaf and minerals running through the palate. Not a lot of character, but a pleasant drink.

Denis Pommier – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis – 2008 (16). Fresh and creamy nose, with some stonefruit characters that are actually quite peachy. Minerals and flint frame the steely palate. Quite long but not complex. Some caramel to close.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis – 2008 (17). More structure than some. Floral and very pretty, this has an appeal that some others lack. Long palate with refreshing grapefruit acidity. A good wine with real character. An impressive entry level wine.

Sebastien Dampt – Chardonnay – Chablis – 2009 (16.8). More complex aromas. The palate has a step up in complexity. Long, with a sea salt tang to the finish. Creamy and generous, this is an interesting wine, but could do with a touch more depth of fruit.

Sebastien Dampt – Chardonnay – Vaillons – 1er Cru – 2008 (17.2). More complex, with grapefruit and lemon citrus notes. Minerals, steel, powerful palate, with lemon, creamy oak, minerals and a steely finish. The acid is not shy, but carries the finish with aplomb. A solid wine.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Vaillons – 1er Cru 2008 (17.7). More balanced and rounded than the Dampt. Creamy, textured, long and complex. The acid structure is a little firm now but will settle with time. Great balance and mouth-feel. Not as obvious as some, but an excellent wine with great finesse.

Christian Moreau – Chardonnay – Vaillons – 1er Cru – 2008 (17.9). Lemony fruit combine perfectly with textural wine-maker’s inputs on the nose. The creamy lees aromas complement well judged oak. Pineapple fruit, with lemon butter on the palate is reminiscent of mendoza clone, and the oak is layered over the top of the fruit. Excellent length and persistence. A powerful wine of real appeal.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Beauroy – 1er Cru – 2008 (18.1). Really intense nose that is quite lovely. Citrus, minerals, spice and perfumed fruit all add to the appeal. Creamy, with seamless acidity. Fresh and vibrant, this is good drinking now, but will get even better with bottle age.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Beauroy – 1er Cru – 2007 (18.3). A touch more expressive than the 2008, but with a very similar profile. If anything, there is more power on the palate and the finish is a little closed. There are hints of tropical fruit and white-fleshed nectarines. There is fresh acidity on an excellent finish.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Beauroy – 1er Cru – 2006 (17.7). More seductive and inviting. This is richer and more generous than the younger wines. Powerful fruit on the palate is complemented by acid that is softening. The minerality on the finish is the dominant character. The balance is not quite as good as the 2007

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Beauroy – 1er Cru – 2005 (16.8). More developed and complex than the earlier wines. This is balanced and rich with some honey and textured components. This bottle is perhaps not the best example.

Christian Moreau – Chardonnay – Les Clos – 1er Cru – 2008 (18). Wow! Complex and powerful. This is a powerhouse of flavour. Intense, textured, viscous, long and balanced. There is no subtlety here, but an impressive wine all the same.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Bougros – Cote Bouguerots – Chablis – Grand Cru – 2008 (18.6). Subtle, complex, intense yet feminine. This is a very seductive and appealing wine. Seamless, this is deceiving as the balance and soft texture make it very appealing. Underneath though, there is immensely powerful fruit. A balanced and complete wine.

William Fevre – Chardonnay – Bougros – Cote Bouguerots – Chablis – Grand Cru – 2005 (18.3). Starting to show the benefits of age. Complexity is increasing, but the acidity is still firm and taught. Again, this is deceptive, as the latent power of fruit is masked in a creamy, silky envelope

New Release Chardonnay

Reviewed – 28 February 2011

A challenging tasting, as some of the wines displayed high levels of malic acid. The wines from Cherubino in particular proved challenging. I have no doubt that, in time, these wines will blossom, but right now they are awkward and shy.

The real hit was the Chardonnay from Alchemist. At around $15 per bottle from the winery, this is a great drink!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2009 (17.7). Quite closed to start, but hints at grapefruit and tropical aromas. A taught, almost racy wine with plenty of appeal. A well made wine, with the quality oak and structural components playing well against the high quality fruit. Very youthful, this should develop well over 5 years.

The Alchemists – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.6). A complete smelling wine. Nectarine, lemon rind, and some (well judged) phenolics on the nose. Powerful fruit on the palate with some viscosity and texture. Good length and persistence too.. Modern and youthful, with quality fruit and wine-making. A very good effort and excellent value.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – The Yard – Channybearup Vineyard – 2010 (17.3). Restrained, with some stonefruit notes. The palate is balanced, but quite subtle. There is decent length and texture. After sitting on the tasting bench for a few days, this evolved into an enjoyable wine in which the oak is perfectly integrated.

Arlewood – Chardonnay – 2007 (17). Surprisingly tight given the extra age of this wine. The fruit is lemony, and the acid is still tight and zippy. Very long palate with fine, high quality fruit balanced by well integrated oak. A persistent wine that is drinking well now, yet has the ability to take further bottle.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – The Yard – 24 Road Vineyard – 2010 (17). Floral by comparison to some here, with tropical fruit on the nose. Restrained and taught in the mouth, the high acid levels suggest that there has been only partial malo-lactic fermentation. The fruit is fine and structured and there is expensive, fine grained oak on the finish. This is very youthful and needs a year or two to start opening up. One reviewer commented that this wine was chablis-like and another found hints of esters (lollied bananas). Too young to drink or review accurately.

Rosabrook – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Golden colour suggests a bigger style. Rich and powerful nose. A fully worked wine displaying barrel ferment, malo-lactic fermentation, lees stirring and high toast oak. Some pineapple fruit on a viscous palate. A more traditional style of Australian chardonnay.

Ballewindi – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.9). A more typical chardonnay nose here. Generous, round and soft, but with enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. The oak plays a limited but complementary role. A sound wine with a savoury edge.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2010 (16.8). Struck match, flint and sulphur with a touch of curry leaf over moderately toasty oak. Viscous in the mouth, this is a bigger style that displays toasty oak, barrel ferment and malo-lactic fermentation notes. Will do well with the crowds.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Ad Hoc – Hen and Chicken – 2010 (16.6). The fruit is more expressive here, though still closed. Quite a powerful wine, with lemon, pineapple and stonefruit characters. The palate is packed with flavour, though the high acidity makes it hard to drink. Very good persistence, but the wine is a little short in the mouth.

Greed Sheep – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.4). Subtle, creamy, textured, long. There is a lovely vanilla bean flavour running through the palate, complemented by medium toast oak. Some spice and cashew butter to close.

Chardonnay – New Release

24 January 2011

Chardonnay is the king of white wine in my opinion. The wines can be made in a variety of styles and the very best are as good as any wine on earth. There is a catch however. It seems that, like pinot noir, chardonnay can be difficult to get right. There is also some debate as to what good chardonnay should taste like.

This tasting highlighted the diversity of styles and threw up a couple of treats. The bargains were the Verse 1, Butterfly Ridge and the White Truck. The Verse 1 is a very good wine at any price and is a great example of the style. The White Truck is new to the market and they seem to have got it right here. Quality fruit and winemaking elevate this to better than quaffing. The Butterfly Ridge I have previously rated as wine of the week.

Several of the more expensive wines were hard to judge. Most were from the 2009 vintage and have not had time to really integrate and show their best. Wines like the Brookland Valley, Devils Lair, Millbrook, and Shaw and Smith are all noteworthy, but all generated debate during the tasting as they will evolve over the next five years.

Reviewed

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18). A seriously worked style that has plenty of wine-making inputs. Lees, batonage, barrel ferment and new oak all play a role. The fruit is very powerful and absorbs these inputs with aplomb on the palate. The finish is remarkably fine and restrained. Needs a few years to settle down. (Really polarised the panel as some thought it was over the top).

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Verse 1 – 2009 (17.8). More complex than many here, with some almond meal over quality fruit. This smells expensive, aided by the high quality oak. Pineapple, peaches and more of the almond meal flood the palate. The texture and mouth-feel are very fine, and the length is excellent. Needs a year or two to blossom as the acid is a little forward still. Great buying at under $20, and the wine of the tasting.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.6+). A touch more astringent, courtesy of the expensive oak, with pleasant cashew notes. The palate is firm yet fresh, with toast and marmalade characters on the persistent finish. Worked and complex, this is a serious wine with excellent length and quality fruit. Buttery oak to close. Give this 3-5 years to show its best.

Crittenden Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5) Closed and very fine. Extraordinarily fine wine that has a purity of fruit that is outstanding. There is lemony fruit, with a very creamy mouth-feel and length that is complemented by very fine oak. A delicate wine for the purist. It should be noted that two panellists thought the fruit was suppressed, suggesting a bottle that was not in perfect condition.

Millbrook – Chardonnay – LR – 2009 (17). Complex, worked and powerful. The fruit characters tend toward the pineapple spectrum suggesting the inclusion of mendoza clone fruit. There is also lovley stonefruit, combined with creamy oak and barrel ferment notes on the close. High quality fruit and winemaking has resulted in a wine that will drink well for the next 5 years.

Shaw and Smith – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Fresh, bright and juicy by comparison, this is still a well made wine with subtle oak to support the quality fruit.. In many respects this is a better drink right now as the fruit is accessible. Not as powerful but dry, long , textured, fine and very young. The epitome of restraint! (Previous vintages have demonstrated the ability of these wines to age and I am sure this will receive higher marks in a few years).

White Truck – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.8). Fresher and more vibrant. Some nutty notes on the nose. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with a touch of viscosity to close. Not complex, but creamy and silky. A blend of Adelaide Hills and Eden Valley fruit, this is a bargain at less than $15.

Palmer – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5+). Honeyed, with firm oak on the nose – the fruit on this is quite subdued. Well made, the finish builds and has good length. One to watch for a year or two.

Matua – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.4). Again, fresh and vibrant, but surprisingly viscous on the palate. This is youthful, with creamy/buttery components. Good drinking, but just lacks the concentration of fruit of the best.

Angove – Chardonnay – Butterfly Ridge – 2009 (16.5). Again, has creamy textural notes to the fore. Good mouth-feel and fresh fruit make for a good drink, and there is just enough oak to add interest. $7 price = BARGAIN!!!!!!!!

Riesling and Chardonnay

12 November 2010

Troy Denham, the State Manager for Fours Seasons Fine Wines, was keen to put a couple of wines from their excellent portfolio into our masked tasting to see how they performed. It was with this in mind that we looked at several brackets of riesling, and a bracket of chardonnays. There were a couple of real stars in the tasting, so the wines had their work cut out.

It was no surprise that the Grossett rieslings did well, they are the benchmark for Australian rieslings. That the 2010 wines from Xabregas showed so well was impressive. Importantly, wines like the Leasingham Bin 7 do not show well in these tastings. The firm acidity makes them hard work now but guarantees a 20 year cellaring future.

The highlight of the chardonnay bracket was the contrast between the two wines from Xanadu. The Stevens Road was impressive in all respects. The sheer weight of fruit combined with turbo-charged wine-making inputs makes this a wine that must be noticed. By comparison, the Reserve was superbly balanced, making it a joy to drink!

Finally, Angove has done it again with their Butterfly Ridge which retails for $7. It is a sound wine that drinks well.

Reviewed

Riesling

Grossett – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010 (18.7). Very citrusy nose. Lemon and lime juice with a touch of curd. A powerful wine, this has spectacular line and length. The length really is incredible and the fruit quality impeccable. The palate is dominated by steely fruit and limey acidity. This is tight and quite austere, but will be a superstar.

Grossett – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18.5). This has everything! There is floral fruit laid over minerals and slate. Passionfruit, lime and even a touch of lavender. The palate is fresh and vibrant. The abundant acid is remarkably soft and allows the fruit to flourish. This will live for many years, but is relatively approachable now.

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer Road – 2010 (18.5). Extraordinarily pale and almost with a touch of spritz. Quite Germanic in a kabinet style really, with lovely aromatics. This is extraordinarily fine and delicate, yet there is immense power behind the wine. If there is a hint of sweetness, the acid balances the wine beautifully.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Pannoo Vineyard – 2010 (18.3). Reserved, with a steely backbone. There is musk, sherbet and lime juice acidity that frames the finish. There is a touch of talc on the back palate. The length is impressive and this just needs time to flourish.

Lucien Albrecht – Riesling – Reserve – 2009 (18). Lovely floral/aromatic nose not dissimilar to gwertztraminer. Really seductive with lime juice and musk, the fruit characters carry through on an impressive finish that is rich and textured.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2010 (17.9). Again, shy. This is high in acid, but it is not aggressive. There is lemony fruit, but it is struggling to make its presence felt. This opens and gets really juicy. Very fine wine.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2010 (17.8) Floral and sweet fruit characters. This is textured, viscous and long. The obvious residual sugar carries the palate and the acid keeps the balance. Drink on a warm afternoon by itself.

Plantaganet – Riesling – 2009 (17.7). Much rounder, even a touch creamy. Again more to the steely side, but with some passionfruit and citrus notes coming through. The finish is very long, with lemony acidity providing the length. Sound wine. Powdery, fine, more modern and greater length.

Xabregas – Riesling – Show Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Minerals to the fore. Steely, with a touch of lanolin. Piercing acidity but balanced. Long and fine finish, but really needs time. 10 yrs+

Howard Park – Riesling – Museum Release – 2006 (17.4). Some developed characters with a touch of toast and just a hint of kerosene, (A good thing). Just starting to hit its drinking window, the developed toasty notes are balanced by fine acidity. Good drinking.

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2009 (17.3+). Lemony fruit, though the acid gets to me at the moment. There is good quality fruit, but it needs many years to emerge from the steely framework.

Boston Bay – Riesling – 2010 (17.1). Restrained, with textured and structural components more obvious now. The palate is fine and well balanced, with lime and mineral components. Falls away on the finish a touch, but a good effort.

Angove – Riesling/Gwertztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.5). Floral and aromatic, there is musk, lychee and passionfruit. The palate is viscous and textured but the acid helps avoid the finish becoming cloying (just). At $7,this is another screaming bargain.

Talisman – Riesling – 2009 (16). Much more steely and racy, this has good length, though it is not so complex.

Chardonnay

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18.5). Quite burgundian nose, with almond meal and minerals combined with well judged oak. The palate has lovely fresh acidity and there is a touch of citrus and stonefruit characters to finish. Really subtle oak and well integrated. Texture is very good. The balance of this wine is a highlight and after a day or two sitting open on the tasting bench, this really blossomed.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2009 (18.4). This is BIG! Well made wine, with all wine-makers fingerprints evident. There are creamy textural components on the nose, along with mealy cashew and almond notes and a gentle creaminess. The intensity of the fruit on the palate is outstanding, thought the piercing acidity is a touch dominant now. There is pineapple fruit on the palate and textural wine-maker’s inputs. Great length and a very textured finish, with the barrel ferment, lees and oak components all adding to the finish. This has more of everything and is for lovers of big, (but not blowsy) chardonnay.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2008 (17.4). This has some toasty oak notes to open. The palate is long and very closed, with the supple oak dominating the finish. I would like to see this again in 6 months to see where it is going.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.2). Dumb. This is a very minerally wine with textural wine-makers inputs. Reserved and tight, this needs a few years to open up. There is some fresh peachy fruit, but this is just developing.

Chardonnay – New Release

22 September 2010

Chardonnay is a most remarkable grape variety. Wines can be made in a number of different styles depending on how the vineyard is managed, when the grapes are picked and how the fruit is handled in the winery.

From fresh and fruit driven to complex and full of wine-makers inputs, there is a wine for every occasion. For those of you who do not like chardonnay, I suggest that you try a few of these wines. The old fashioned, big, buttery style has been replaced by elegant and refined wines that showcase the marvelous fruit.

As I have written before, the wines now often need a few years in the bottle to allow the fruit to open up and develop richness.

So to the tasting, this was a memorable collection of wines that highlighted the quality of Australian chardonnay.

Reviewed

Oakridge – Chardonnay – The Parish of Gruyere – 2009 (18.2). Complex, mealy nose with mineral notes. This is a serious wine that has been fully worked. (Barrel ferment, lees stirring and oak aging). The palate is fine and seamless. This is very classy. Excellent fruit combined with skilled wine-making. This is very refined and elegant, and the length of flavours are superb. Similar in style to premier cru Chablis.and great value. (exclusive to Vintage Cellars).

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2009 (18+). Minerals to the fore. Interesting wine-making here. The palate is rich, textured, vibrant and very long. There are stone fruit characters, but these are balanced by complex wine-making inputs. Superb drinking, and more approachable than most here.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Complex worked notes to open on the nose. Textured, with some pineapple fruit, but the palate is quite firm and astringent. Is a very fine and very long wine that will evolve. Very serious wine-making and fantastic fruit combine to make for a very fine wine that needs several years to show its best.

Castelli – Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Classy. Restrained, tight, focused and very long. Develops lovely pineapple fruit and has real intensity on the palate. This is very good. Superb length – this seems to go on for ever and evolves in the mouth. Excellent oak handling adds to the finish. A star for the patient.

Alterum – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5). Closed and unyielding. Big, rich and powerful. This is a well made style that offers plenty of flavour, but not as much sophistication as the best here. Remarkably viscous, with stonefruit and marmalade on the finish.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Wisdom – 2009 (17.5). Quite peachy fruit. Fresh stonefruit, this is quite enticing. Fresh and vibrant, a good commercial style with a touch of sweetness to close. This really fleshes out with air, developing a touch of match strike, creamy textured palate and real intensity of fruit. Needs time to show its best.

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon – Chardonnay – Macon – Milly – Lamartine – 2007 (17.3). Complex and a touch funky. Minerals and complex wine-making inputs. The oak is a touch firm, but this will settle down. An interesting wine.

Angove – Chardonnay – Butterfly Ridge – 2009 (17). Refined and elegant, this has a lovely nose of peaches and a creamy undertone. The palate is fine, though a touch firm. There is lemony acid and a strong minerality. Excellent length and texture. Very well made, and the oak handling is very clever. A contender for Wine of the Year.

Kalgan River – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Lifted nose with complex aromas. There are plenty of fruit characters, but these are balanced by minerals and some lees characters. Ripe, peachy fruit, but the oak on the finish is a bit firm. Will improve.

Gilberts – Chardonnay – Hand Picked – 2009 (16.8). Peach and a touch of vanilla lead off on the nose. The palate is vibrant and generous, with some tropical fruit characters, musk and even a touch of sherbet. Good summer drinking.

Seppelts – Chardonnay – Grampians – 2008 (16.7). Closed and restrained, the palate is simple, but satisfying. Needs a year or two.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – Fifth Leg – 2009 (16.5). Fruit driven style. This is good drinking, with a touch of pineapple fruit and granny smith apple juice to close. Fun and quite long: just not that complex or intense.

Lamont’s – Direct Imports

12 September 2010

Lamont’s in Cottesloe has received another shipment of imported wines. Apparently they are importing the wines direct from Europe, thus cutting out the middle-men. The prices range from good to excellent for the given quality, with the Italian selection being particularly good value.

Wines from Burgundy have become so expensive in general, that even at these ex-ship prices, they are quite pricey, though there is still some value to be found.

My picks include the Bonon – Meursalt, Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba, Araldica – Barbera d’Ast and the Arpatin – Barolo.

This was not a blind tasting, so I have tried not to be too generous with my points. With the reds, I could have been more generous with my points, but because we were only trying one or two wines from each style, I was conscious of the lack of perspective. Be assured that these are good wines.

Tasted

White Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Les Tillets – 2008 (17.8). Minerals to the fore, with complex almond meal, cashew nut and lemony oak. The palate is very rich and textured, with slightly honeyed fruit. The length is a highlight and the oak is not obtrusive. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Meursalt – Clos de la Velle – 2006 (17.9). Much finer and closed compared to the Bonin. Develops nutty fruit and minerals with air. In the mouth, this is creamy, seamless, textured and very fine indeed. The fruit is subdued. One for the purists! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots 1er Cru – 2006 (18.3). Lovely refined nose, with minerally, textural components overlaying curry leaf and creamy oak. The palate really builds in the mouth, but this remains very elegant and fine. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Charmes 1er Cru – 2007 (17.4). Interestingly, this has all the components of a good white burgundy, yet I preferred the Les Tillets! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Phillippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Les Pucelles 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Classic nose. Complex, yet refined, this is more restrained than some here. There is almond and apricot fruit notes intertwined with creamy textural components. The power on the palate is a revelation, yet this remains very fine and seamless. Superb wine! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18). From one of my favourite appellations. More peachy fruit on the nose, this is all about refinement. There is a minerality to the palate, with excellent balance and length. This is a very subtle wine. (Chardonnay).

Red Burgundy

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2008 (16.8). A good entry level burgundy, with simple fruit characters. The mouth-feel, fruit and texture are all good.

Domaine Philippe Livera – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2007 (17.9). More complex nose displaying plum, blueberry and earthy notes that combine well. Lovely fruit on the palate, and real depth. This is quite seamless, long and taught. A lovely example.

Domaine Humbert Freres – Gevery Chambertain – Poissenot 1er Cru – 2007 (18.2). Complex, but quite closed. Develops lovely perfumed fruit, reminiscent of violets. The palate is closed and tight, yet delicate and very fine. Superb length and texture, the refinement is the key.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Vosne Romanee – Les Suchots 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Complex and earthy, this has licorice, tar, cinnamon, spice and raspberry fruit. The fruit characters are more pronounced on the palate, with incredibly fine tannins. The oak has been absorbed by the fruit. This has superb length and depth, and the finish fans out across the palate beautifully.

Italian

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba – Superiore – 2008 (17). Lovely cherry fruit with tar and licorice on the nose. This is a fruit driven wine that is fresh, vibrant, juicy, soft and thoroughly refreshing. A modern style and great value.

Poderi Alasia – Barbera d’Asti – Rive (Il Cascinone) – 2007 (17.3). More savoury and earthy, with licorice, spice and lots of pepper. The palate is reminiscent of cool climate shiraz, with peppery fruit, that is long, textured and structured. There is leathery fruit to close.

Frascole – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.4). Cherry fruit to open, but briary and dense, with leather and spice. The palate is dominated by spicy fruit and drying tannins. A good example, and organic to boot!

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.8). More complex, with more fruit weight than the Frascole. This is very textured and structured in a traditional style where the fresh fruit notes are exchanged for mouth-feel and structure. Another organic wine, but this is crying out for food. Good value!

– d’Annona – Barbera d’Asti- 2007 (17.8). Wow – this has an exciting nose displaying cherry, tobacco, plums, cedar and anise. This keeps evolving. This is a powerful wine where fruit, oak and tannins combine to coat the palate with an amalgam of flavours and textures. Will be even better in a year or two.

Arpatin – Barbaresco – 2006 (17.5). More savoury, with real density. There is licorice all sorts on the nose. Typical of the style, this is textured and has really chewy tannins. Whist the tannins are fine, they are formidable. 10 years +.

Arpatin – Barolo – 2005 (17.8). Savoury, with dark fruits, cherry, coffee and tar. The palate is really dense and chewy. The tannins are finer than the Barbaresco. This is great value, but needs at least 10 years to show its best.

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Closed. Pristine fruit, silky tannins and excellent texture. Superb mouth-feel and tremendous depth, this is fine and dense. (Not cheap though).

Chardonnay – New Release

24 May 2010

There is a movement out there called ABC (Anything But Chardonnay), but I believe that this has no relevance these days. Fifteen years ago Australian chardonnays tended to be very ripe and rich. They made up in power what they lacked in sophistication.

As a rule, Australia now makes a much finer style that is more balanced and restrained. This has lead to a variety of styles from the various regions producing chardonnay. This tasting highlighted the quality of the wines superbly, with Frankland, Victoria and Margaret River all providing wines of quality.

For those of you who avoid chardonnay, please get hold of a bottle of the Galafrey unwooded chardonnay. This has the liveliness of an SSB, but with a different flavour spectrum.

Tasted

Forest Hill – Chardonnay 2008 (18.1). Wow, this smells really familiar yet is quite intriguing. The nose has sticking plaster, mineral, spice and a touch of antiseptic (a good thing). Well judged oak complements the flinty palate. This is balanced, textured and dense. High quality fruit is complemented by fine oak. Almost burgundian.

Shadowfax – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.9). More lemon and subtle barrel ferment characters here. Creamier on the palate, with more of the lemony oak and fresh acid, Needs a year or two to settle down, but excellent. Excellent mouth-feel and texture with a touch of grapefruit to close.

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – Block 8 – 2007 (17.7). Minerals, lees, barrel ferment and stonefruit lead a complex nose. Some curry leaf too. This is complex, with high quality fruit and excellent oak handling. The long and supple finish really lingers with very tight oak influence. This is quite tight and will improve for a few years.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Sideways – 2009 (17.7). Closed to start. Wow, this has it all, with lemon, stonefruit, creamy oak that is very fine and lovely mouth-feel. Very restrained and very modern, this has good length. May develop more complexity with a year or two in bottle.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). This is very young and closed. The high quality fruit is very fine and elegant. There is a density to the palate that only opens with plenty of air. This may well be a star, but it is too soon to know. We tend to think of red wines when it comes to decanting, but this is a great example of a white to decant now or cellar for several years.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+) Fresh, with lemon zest, peach and topical notes on the nose. The palate has lovely cashew nut fruit and a mealy texture. A touch of viscosity from lees adds interest. Well made and sure to improve with a year or two in bottle.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Verse One – 2009 (17.2). This is complex and interesting. Lemon and grapefruit to start, and it develops really peachy fruit. Restrained oak helps with the texture and mouth-feel. Very good value.

Galafrey – Semillon – Reserve – 2009 (17+). Rounded, generous and mouth-filling, with plenty of grassy fruit. There is a touch of viscosity and good length. Fresh fruit to close, this will get better. (I accidentally slipped this into the line-up, and it did very well considering).

Angove – Chardonnay – Limestone Coast – 2008 (16.8). This is quite good again. The fruit is of good quality and has been handled well. The oak grip on the finish is a touch assertive right now.

Ferngrove – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.8). Balanced, soft and rounded. Creamy, soft and fine. This is a good drink.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Unwooded – 2009 (16.8). Almost sauvignon blanc-like, this is so fresh and tropical. Uncomplicated, refreshing and lively on the palate, this is a great alternative to a SSB. Bring on spring.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.7). Fresh and a touch floral. This has a vibrant palate with some citrus and tropical fruit. Oak not obvious.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.7). Closed but this has quite a lemony nose. Almost lemon meringue pie. Starts of with good fruit and finishes with lemony oak, fresh acid, vanilla and plenty of zest.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.6). A well made wine from start to finish. This is varietally correct and good drinking. Could do with a touch more fruit concentration.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This is just too young now. There are quality components, but they have not come together yet.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2009 (16.5). This is a sound, well made wine. If Organic is your thing, then this is a good place to start.

Burgundy Comes to Australia

Direct imports by Lamont’s – Cottesloe

17 & 22 December 2009

Burgundy is the holy grail of wines from my perspective. The great wines from Burgundy (both red and white) are possibly the greatest wines on the planet. The problem is that most wines do not reach anywhere near that pinnacle, especially for pinot noir. The best new world pinots are lovely wines but they lack the ethereal qualities of great burgundies. Indeed, most red burgundies fall well short of the mark too.

The story is a little different for chardonnay. The greatest new world wines (e.g. Leeuwin Estate from Margaret River) are indeed great wines. They are different to those from Burgundy though. Not better or worse, just different. Is the quality of these new world chardonnays equal to the best white burgundies (e.g. Grand Cru wines such as La – Montrachet etc)? Perhaps not quite, but the gap is small. Do good whites from the Burgundy region offer a drinking experience that is worth pursuing? Definitely! The minerally characters abundant in these wines are ideally suited to food, and often will take some aging.

At this stage I should highlight that wines made from chardonnay from the Burgundy region come from two main regions. Chablis and Burgundy. Both are typically 100% chardonnay, but the style differs significantly. I will discuss this further in a future article.

So to the wines.

Lamont’s has sourced a number of wines from various producers throughout Burgundy and Chablis. Looking at the order form, the wines appear to be very well priced. They suggest that a combination of the higher Australian Dollar, decreased global demand post the Global Financial Crisis and the ability to bypass the middle-man through direct imports has resulted in significantly reduced prices.

Having said all this, the wines only represent good value if they are actually good. After tasting 18 of the wines (this was not a blind tasting, so points are a bit arbitrary) I am pleased to say that they are good to very good, and there is some excellent value on offer.

Importantly, this is an opportunity to drink/cellar a selection of wines that offer something different to anything being made in the new world.

Tasted

Chardonnay

Bernard Bonin – Meursault Charmes – Premier Cru – 2004 (18). (Burgundy). Open and rich nose with minerals and melon fruit characters The palate is round and rich, with caramel toasty oak. Good mouth feel that is viscous and textured. Drinking well now.

Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18.5). (Burgundy). Formerly known as Domaine Michelot. Closed and surprisingly tight given that it is 5 years old. The palate has plenty of minerals, spice, stone fruit and a touch of almond. There is also peachy fruit and a touch of apricot kernel. The palate is defined by fine acidity and high quality oak but remains lean and relatively austere. Will evolve wonderfully over time.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de La Ville – 2006 (17.9). (Burgundy). Whilst quite closed at the moment, this has citrus and tropical fruit notes. The palate is rich, ripe and textured with lovely mouth feel. Very fine oak is seamlessly integrated. Opens and builds power with air. Give it a few years to blossom.

Darviot Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots Dessus – Premier Cru – 2006 (18.5). (Burgundy). Closed, complex and creamy. The palate is closed, tight, seamless and very long. Stone fruit to the fore with great subtlety. This is fantastic! Needs several years to show its best.

Laurent Cognard – Montagny Les Bassets – Premier Cru – 2008 (17.5). (Burgundy). More obvious nose. Quite creamy, with more stone fruit and less minerals than the wines from chablis. There is also a touch of Marzipan/rose water. This has potential! The palate has lovely lemony acid, is creamy and has a relatively seamless palate. Some apricot to close.

Philippe Chavy – Borgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). (Burgundy). Cold and quite closed to start. Plenty of minerals and lemony acid with a touch of toastiness. Not complex, but would be good drinking with a risotto this summer.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Folatiers – Premier Cru – 2007 (18). (Burgundy). More complex and ripe. Interestingly, this has more colour than most here. The palate is defined by powerful fruit – this is big. Very good length and more structure. One to drink over the next year.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2007 (17.7). (Burgundy). More complex and obviously white burgundy. A touch of mineraly curry leaf. This is quite chewy and textured with a touch of honey and seamless oak. There is a steely finish on this fine wine.

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2007 (16.9). Classic minerals and flint on the nose with ripe peach and a touch of almond meal. The palate is bright and fresh. This is tasty, and has a lovely mouth watering saltiness on the close. Not greatly complex, but very enjoyable drinking. Good Value.

Sylvain Mosnier – Beauroy – Premier Cru – 2006 (17.4). (Chablis). More complex, with honey, lanolin, and stone fruit. The palate has apricot kernel and honey. There is some oak evident on the creamy finish. This has real density of fruit but is still quite closed. May get greater length with a year more in bottle.

Bernard Bonin – Meursault – Les Tillets – 2005 (NR). (Burgundy). Slight cork taint. Looks promising.

Pinot Noir

Anne & Herve Sigaut – Morey St Denis – Les Millandes – Premier Cru – 2007 (17.5/18). Wow, really perfumed with a touch of meatiness. This really chewy and dense showing fruit and tannin ripeness. The drying finish is very fine. Points for potential.

Aurelien Verdet – Haut Cote de Nuit – 2007 (17.3). Scented and perfumed. A fine and refined wine. More concentrated than the Clos des Faulques. Darker cherry fruit that has earthy undertones. White pepper and savoury notes. This is great value.

Darviot Perrin – Beaune Bellisands – Premier Cru – 2003 (18). Intriguing “French” pong reflects the extra bottle age on this wine. Deep smelling with cherry and red currant undertones. The palate is long, complex, savoury and dense. Subtle oak supports the cherry fruit. Very good drinking!

Jean-Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Clos des Faulques – 2007 (16.5). Ripe cherry with some complexity on the nose. The palate has cherry, strawberries and spice. Simple but a good drink.

Jean-Marc Millot – Clos Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Complex, deep and fragrant nose. Wow, the palate is powerful, deep, dense, very fine and long. Evolves with air, revealing leather, spice and cloves. Majestic wine.

N.B. To add context to the tasting, we opened a bottle of the Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2006 (18.5/18.7) to use as a bench mark. This is a wine of stunning quality and at under $100 a bottle is a real bargain.