Tag Archives: Wine Review

Premium Cabernet Sauvignon

18 October 2010

In the lead-up to this weeks Margaret River versus Great Southern at the Hyatt, John Jens asked the panel to look at a few of the wines that he was considering including in the line up.

To make things more interesting, I included a few of the samples that had arrived in the last few weeks. This proved to be a masterstroke, as there were a couple of real surprises.

The Deepwoods Reserve and the Flametree Reserve were both outstanding. It was less surprising that wine like the Heytesbury showed so well. It is important to point out that there are no bad wines here and personal preference has an important role to play.

Reviewed

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon– Reserve – 2008 (18.6). Another lovely nose, with pretty fruits and a touch of oak in the background. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit is perfectly ripe and the balance superb. The length is a highlight as is the mouth-feel and texture. A rare wine! This wine was the best drinking of all the wines on tasting. Whilst the wine will probably age well, I would drink it over the next five years while waiting for the Heytesbury and Flametree.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5+). In a word…pretty. A wine of real power and distinction. There are herbal notes and even a touch of cut grass and black fruits on the nose, and cedary oak adds complexity. Very dense palate, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The palate is seamless, yet dense and powerful. Despite all this, the wine manages to show restraint. Outstanding length is a real feature as are the finest of tannins. A superstar in the making.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.5). Unfortunately, my tasting notes for this wine were lost, but the structure was the highlight here. The fruit was dense and inky, and the length of flavours was impressive. The fine tannins made their presence felt, but there is no doubt that the quality fruit will shine through over the next 10 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2005 (18). Mortien (a good thing), cool fruit notes, mint, eucalypt and vanillin oak. The fruit is ripe with red fruits to the fore, yet the palate is assertive, structured and tight. Needs 10 years to start to show its best. (This wine was never commercially released. The wine tasted here was a sample courtesy of the winery).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Crofters – 2005 (18). Leather and spice over blackcurrant and violets. Powerful, restrained and quite seamless, this is full of latent power. Iron fist in a velvet glove. The length is superb and the flavours evolve. Textural treat, this remains balanced.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2005 (18). Minty and dusty, but an attractive nose. Ripe berry notes combined with chocolate/mocha fruit. Plush mouth-feel and texture. Very silky, the tannins are a highlight. There is a touch of eucalypt and herbs too.

Woodside Valley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Baudin – 2008 (18). Classic nose. Eucalypt, cedar and minty notes on the nose. The palate is powerful, with red fruits and plenty of blackcurrant. The length is excellent, though the palate is a little disjointed at present. Some cherry and spice too. Very young, there is real potential.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2005 (17.8). Developed nose with raspberry, redcurrant, plum and cedary overtones. Spectacularly dense and powerful, this is complex, very textured and rich. The mouth-feel and texture are excellent. This is good short term drinking. (Points were a little split on this wine).

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2007 (17.5+). Dense and quite lovely nose. Cooler fruit, showing mint, eucalypt and red fruits. Very pretty palate, this is forward and floral. The finish is quite astringent yet the tannins are very fine. Persistent, this will flesh out in the mid palate and score higher points in the future.

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Limited Cellar Release – 2005 (17.5). Very pretty, even floral nose with rose and violets. Colour developing. A more angular wine than some here, all components are in place but this will integrate with another couple of years. (An amazing bargain at $10-$15 from Vintage Cellars).

Forrest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2004 (17.5). Again, a touch more developed reflecting the vintage. Menthol, cedar, and cinnamon quill on the nose. Round and soft fruit initially on the palate, there is still plenty tannic grip. Well balanced and needing a couple more years to show its best.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon– Scottsdale – 2005 (17.5). Lovely nose that is classy and silky. Seductive really, with cedar and spice. The palate is firm and chewy. The tannins remain firm and grippy. There is still plenty of fruit, but this will remain structured through its life. Good drinking all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (17.5+). A very hard wine to review. Like the 2008 Cullen Diana Madeleine (reviewed previously) this is an incredibly fine wine. The palate is reserved and tight, yet the tannins are so silky and fine that it is easy to underestimate the quality here. After 4 days on the tasting bench, the pretty red fruits started to open and shine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.3). Closed and dumb to start. Silky and really quite fine, this is elegant and refined. Medium bodied and elegant, the palate is an exercise in restraint. Delicate fruit combine with silky textural components in a seamless package. Lacks the density of the best, but a good drink all the same.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Omrah – 2007 (17). Dense and impenetrable nose. Some dusty/cedary notes. Very rich palate, this is very dense and textured, with savoury notes to close. There is a touch of sweet and sour components to the fruit, which prevented me awarding higher points, but this still represents value.

Cabernet and Blends – New Release

8 July 2010

Another interesting tasting, and a couple of surprises.

The Shaw Vineyard Estate cabernet sauvignon is a cracker. This is a very good wine, but it is also really good drinking. There is a generosity to the fruit that is very seductive.

Most of the wines will benefit from some bottle age, especially the likes of Suckfizzle and Howard Park. These are excellent wines, but they will develop much greater drinkability in 5-10 years.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet – Abercrombie – 2008 (18.5). This is a super wine with well ripened fruit. Excellent wine making has produced a powerful wine with real class. Cedar and spice dominate the nose, and the palate is fine yet has real fruit density. Evolves with air. Textured and chewy to close, this is a star.

Shaw Vineyard Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium – 2008 (18+). Menthol and elastoplast to start. Even a touch of Mortein, (These are all good things – really!). Some mint and eucalypt suggest cool climate fruit. There is a touch of blackcurrant fruit too and cedary oak highlights. The palate is very good. Long and textured, there are more of the cool fruit characters, but these are ripe and delicious. The tannins are very fine and the souring finish adds life.

Suckfizzle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18). Complex nose with earthy notes to the blackcurrant and sour plum fruit. Tobacco leaf, cedar and herbal notes all add to the nose. The theme follows on the palate with complex fruit and mouth coating texture. Excellent length and firm yet fine tannins. Very good, but needs 10 years.

Cricketwood – Cabernet – 2006 (17.5). Closed. A finely structured and elegant wine, this has soft, high quality fruit. Whilst cool climate fruit is apparent, the fleshiness suggests the fruit ripeness is well judged. Excellent length makes for a satisfying wine. A bargain at $135 per case including delivery to metro Perth. Ph 9384 5555

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.5). Classic nose, with mint and cooler fruit characters. The palate is textured yet very firm at present. Tannins are very fine and the finish is very drying. Not as long as the very best. Gets extra points for being a really good drink now.

Stella Bella – Merlot – Serie Luminosa – 2007 (17.5+) Much more mint and capsicum suggesting a cooler fruit source. Really silky and fine, this is an impressive wine with real length and complexity. Whilst there is some ripe primary fruit, this is Bordeaux-like in its structure and mouth-feel. Fine oak needs time to integrate further. Will improve for 5-10 years, but the style will polarize.

Bligh Estate – Merlot/Cabernet Frank – Blackrock – 2007 (17.3). Dusty, silky nose that is pretty and appealing. There is an amalgam of cedar and spice with ripe fruit in the blueberry and violet spectrum. Quite fine on the palate with a tight, lean structure. This will benefit from a few years in the bottle.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2008 (17). Balanced and fine, this is all about potential. Menthol and herbal characters to the fore, this is a tight and closed wine. Very good length and chewy tannins suggest that the patient will be rewarded.

Bordeaux & Sauternes

15th June 2010

Where do I start? This was an extraordinary event, and I don’t say that just because I was leading the discussion on the night. John Jens and the team at Lamont’s in Cottesloe put together an amazing selection of wines. The fact that they served a meal and only charged $125 per person makes it an absolute bargain.

My suggestion is to get on to their mailing list as their tasting program is second to none. Keep an eye out for the upcoming champagne tasting. I will lead the discussion again and the wines are breathtaking.

Whilst it would be easy to rave about the near perfect Chateau D’Yquem 2003, the highlight for me was the 2000 vintage Leoville Las Case. This is one of the greatest cabernets I have ever tasted.

If you are interested, this tasting forms part of an ongoing series, so there are more of these to come.

Reviewed

In Order Tasted

Chateau Bernadotte – 2005 (16.8). This has lovely sweet and fragrant fruit on the nose. Really floral with a touch of spice. The palate is on the lighter style, dominated by fresh, plumy fruit and a touch of cedar. Good drinking. (Haut Medoc).

Clos du Marquis – 1996 (17.9). More leather here, reflecting the bottle age. Really supple, quality fruit with spice, earth, tar and some herbal characters. Starting to drink very well. (St. Julien). This is not a second wine of Leoville Las Cases, this is from a different vineyard entirely.

Chateau Lafleur Petrus – 2006 (18). Surprisingly masculine for a Pomerol. Really lovely nose on this. Blackcurrant fruit is supple and rounded and there is a whiff of vanillin oak too. The palate is structured, firm, closed and tight. Develops floral fruit with air. There are plenty of tannins and oak, but these are very fine and elegant. (Pomerol).

Chateau Montrose – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is good! Floral characters tend towards Violets. There is also leather and spice, but this wine is all about power and structure. The palate is fantastic! Very tight and long, this is very structured and intense. The fruit is fantastic, but it needs 10-20+ years to open up. (2nd Growth – St Estephe).

Chateau Palmer – 2003 (18+). From a very warm year, this is classic Margaux. Really seductive and much more approachable than the Montrose. While the fruit is silky and supple, this is still very structured. Excellent oak supports the quality finish. (Margaux).

Chateau Pichon Lalande – 2006 (17.8). A complex wine that has more of the earthy characters than some. The palate is quite complete with plenty of leather, earth and mocha notes. The tannins and oak are more dominant, and the fruit less ripe. May take years to come around. (Pauillac).

Chateau Pontet Canet – 2001 (18.5). Very fragrant yet with understated power. The nose has complex dark fruits, leather and earthy notes. The palate is supple, and has a spicy edge to the lovely fruit. The very long finish is starting to show some bottle age. (Pauillac).

Chateau Pichon Longueville – 1995 (18.5). A powerful wine that is developing a lovely leathery/savoury note to the floral fruit. The palate is silky, elegant, long, textured and really refined. This is a beautiful wine that will last for many years. (Pauillac).

Chateau Leoville Las Cases – 2000 (18.9). A gorgeous nose. This is a classic case of having an iron fist inside a velvet glove. The fruit is tremendously shy and at 10 years, this is just starting to hint at its potential. The palate is seamless and stunning. A great wine and one of the best cabernet based wines I have ever tasted! (St Julien).

Chateau Latour – 1985. (Cork Tainted).

Chateau Palmer – 1985 (18.5). A lovely developed nose with leather and spice. The palate is fantastic. Fragrant, floral, spiced, mellow and supple. At 25 years of age, a lovely aged claret. (Margaux).

Chateau du Pavillon – 2005 (16.5). Fresh apricot and musk. The palate has almond grip to the sweet fruit. Not complex but a good drink.

Chateau Guiraud – 2005 (18+). Closed and a touch sulphurous on the nose. The palate is a revelation. Classic orange peel, marmalade and marzipan fruit with tremendous length and structure. Will score higher in years to come.

Chateau Suduiraut – 2004 (18). Still tight, but a more restrained style compared to the Guiraud. The finish is spot on and the complexity builds. Great length and has a long future.

Chateau D’Yquem – 2003 (19). A gorgeous wine with stunning floral fruit that opens, evolves and builds for an age. The palate has immense power and structure, and the length is like no other. The flavours evolve in the mouth and never seem to end. Arguably the greatest estate in all of Bordeaux and possibly the world. At $650 per bottle, this is a bargain!

New Release Cabernet

Part Two – 6 June 2010

In the second half of our line up of wines made from Bordeaux varietals, there were a number of excellent wines yet again. In fact, the only wine that did not get a bronze medal or better was not made in Australia.

From a value point of view, three wines really stood out. The Angove’s Long Row cabernet is a steal at less than $10 dollars, and the Kalgan River and Palmer reds deliver great drinking enjoyment for less than $20 at the cellar door.

In the middle is my pick for the tasting. The O’Leary Walker is deserving of its gold medal and should be available for not much more than $20. This is a contender for Cabernet of the Year. Try contacting the winery as I am not sure if this is in the shops yet.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Heytesbury from Vasse Felix is a wine of immense power and structure that will live for many years. The other wine that I will recommend is a cabernet from Howard Park. Whilst their Abercrombie may be the better wine in the long term, the Leston is so delicious and well balanced that this is where I would put my money, (esp. given that it is half the price).

Finally, a word on Cullen. The Diana Madeleine topped the tasting on my score sheet, but I am not going to recommend it. The wines at Cullen are quite unique. With the move to biodynamic, Vanya Cullen has found that the grapes achieve ripeness of tannins at much lower sugar levels. Their wines in this tasting ranged from 12% – 12.5% alcohol. This has resulted in very fine wines, though the flavour spectrum is quite different to the other wines in this tasting. Primary fruit characters are definitely reduced. Time will tell whether the general drinking public will understand these wines.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeleine – 2008 (18.5). Silky but very closed. The palate is seamless and very fine. This is elegant and classy. The texture is soft yet mouth-coating and the tannins are silky and very elegant. Whilst this is an excellent wine, it will not appeal to all. With 12.5% alcohol and very fine structure, it is easy to miss this wine.

O’Leary Walker – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Mortein to start with. Blackcurrant, cherry and tar. The palate has real depth and density of high quality fruit. This is generous, mouth-coating and textured. Blackcurrant, raspberry, tar and a touch of menthol to close. High quality oak is absorbed by the fruit and adds to the close. This wine is the opposite of the Cullen. It is a wine that anyone can enjoy. A very good drink.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2007 (18.5). Lovely fruit on this. Ripe, structured, intense and dense. Extraordinarily powerful fruit, but the palate is still coming together as the high quality oak is a touch obvious. A very intense wine that demands 10 years in the cellar, and deserves 20.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2008 (18.2). Alluring and intriguing. This has hints of many of the other wines in the tasting. Red fruits and cedar are predominant. The finish is structured, dense and closed. This is a potential star. (We had a glass of this the next night with pizza, and it was fabulous).

Brown Brothers – Cabernet Sauvignon – Patricia – 2005 (18). More Bordeaux-like to start; this has a touch of savoury notes to the ripe and elegant fruit. There is even a touch of pepper to close. Red fruits are shy, though there is a touch of stewed fruit to close. A textured wine that will show its best in 5 -10 years.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18+). Concentrated ripe fruit on the nose with blackcurrant and cedar. The palate is firm, dense, textured and powerful. The acids and tannins are firm, but this will improve with age. Give it ten years and you will be amply rewarded.

Kalgan River – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Obvious cooler fruit characters here, though still ripe and lifted. There is menthol, blackcurrant and spice. The palate is fantastic. The fruit flavours run across the spectrum and fan out and coat the tongue. Quite silky and seamless. Excellent length and texture to an early drinking style. At $18.50 per bottle from the winery, this is great value.

Palmer – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.9). Starts to sing as it opens up with fresh red and black fruit. Vanillin oak is notable, but this is fine and will integrate further. Blackcurrant, eucalypt, mint and spice all make an appearance on the palate. The tannins, (fruit and oak), are firm but will soften. Good value at $19 from the winery.

Mt Horricks – Cabernet – 2008 (17.7). More plumy fruit on the nose, with sultanas and with a touch of licorice and camphor. This really evolved with air to develop some lovely mint and blackcurrant. The palate is fresh, with juicy fruit, plum, prune, licorice and a touch of cedary oak. This is different in style to the wines from Margaret River, but it is very good drinking.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.7). Lovely fruit. Fresh and plump, with real attack and thrust on the palate to start and with soft, plump, plumy fruit on the finish. This is great drinking and very accessible. (I can’t wait to try the reserve).

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2008 (17.3). Dense and closed. Hints at cool climate fruit. More fly spray on this and the structure is good. The fruit is a bit shy, but at under $10, why not put a few in the cupboard and see how they develop.

Howard Park – Cabernet – Scotsdale – 2008 (17.3). Classic cabernet nose with a touch of cassis, ribena, redcurrant and spice. The palate is supple, soft, round and generous with more ripe fruit. This is quite a fruit-forward style that is easy to drink right now, though the fine tannins and length ensure that it will improve with age.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red – 2008 (17). Closed but promising. Fine, tight and closed on the palate. Some redcurrant and vanillin oak to close. Try again in a year or two.

Mount Avoca – Merlot – 2008 (17). Forward, fresh and plumy fruit on the nose. The palate is full of soft, round and succulent red berries. Really good drinking in a less complicated style.

Wine By Brad – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008. (16.9). Dense fruit and with a touch of fresh ocean characters. . Ribena and cedar on the palate with a touch of stewed fruit to close. This is in the more herbal spectrum, yet has sweet fruit to close.

Cullen – Merlot/Petit Verdot/Malbec – Mangan – 2008 (16.8). Quite dusty to start, with plenty of plumy fruit with cherry and spice. This is an interesting wine, but not typical. (This uses varieties from Bordeaux other than cabernet sauvignon and gets the plumy characters from the merlot).

Cabernet – New Release

Part One – 31 May 2010

Wow, what a tasting! There was not a bad wine to be seen anywhere.

Ten years ago, a tasting like this would have been unheard of. To have fifteen wines in a tasting and have every one of them score a bronze medal or better would have been quite remarkable. There are several reasons for this increase in quality across the spectrum.

Most importantly, the wholesale adoption of screw caps has removed the problems associated with cork. I estimate that, traditionally, up to 15% of all wines bottled under cork had obvious signs of cork taint. There has also been a dramatic improvement in the quality of corks too, as producers introduce measures to reduce bad quality corks.

There has also been changes in vineyard management and fruit selection, as well as improvements in wine-making techniques. Hygiene is also an important factor too. Finally, the grape glut over recent years has seen quality fruit from premium regions being used in inexpensive wines.

Ultimately though, the consumer is the winner. Wines like the Angoves – Vineyard Select, Long Flat, Ferngrove – Symbols and Xanadu – Next of Kin are very good wines in their own right, and represent superb value.

Drink Up!

Tasted

Voyager – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. – 2005 (18.2). Herbal edges with cedar and concentrated fruit. The palate is powerful and ripe with mint, mortein, cassis and dark fruits. The texture is dominated by mouth-coating tannins. Needs years to show its best. Drink with a veal chop.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vineyard Select – 2008 (18). Wow. A crowd pleaser. Forward and ripe, this has black fruits, cedar, cigar box/tobacco leaf, blackcurrant and a touch of ribena. There is even a touch of peppermint and fly spray (A good thing). There is plenty of grip from the oak, but the fruit handles this with ease. Tremendous value.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Next of Kin – 2008 (17.8). Savoury notes to the dense, quality fruit. Ripe, textured, long, powerful and quite seamless. A complex wine, though the oak is a touch assertive now, (this should settle in a year or two). Bordeaux-like in style. Great value here.

Galafrey– Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2001 (17.6). Lovely developed fruit here. Dense, with mint and a touch of eucalypt. The palate is textured, dense and leathery. The ripe fruit is in the black fruits spectrum with mulberry and plum. Good length and mouth-feel. A nicely aging wine that is currently available from the winery.

McHenry Hohnen – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot – Rolling Stone – 2008 (17.6). Balanced and enticing nose. This has ripe fruit in the red berry spectrum, and a silky mouth feel. Fine tannins are apparent on the finish, but a lovely wine that will improve with age.

Balnaves – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.5). Leads off with mortein, mint, redcurrants and cedary oak accents. The palate continues the theme nicely. The fine tannins are a little assertive right now, but these should integrate. Typically Coonawara and an excellent result for the year.

Goundrey – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Homestead – 2008 (17.3). Silky, supple and enticing. This is an elegant and refined wine with lovely fruit. Violets, redcurrant, camphor and spice all appear on the palate with quite seamless oak. A leaner style, and good value again.

Mount Avoca – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.2). Bright ripe fruit on the nose and palate. This is not the densest wine here, but it is pretty and focused with fine tannins. Easy drinking over the next 5 years.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. – Symbols – 2008 (17). Sweet fruit on the nose with camphor. The palate is dense and showing a touch of extract with licorice, spice and leather. Really slips down easily and hard to resist. A solid wine that is a bargain.

MadFish – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Turtle – 2008 (17). Savoury, yes, but complimented by fine ripe fruit. Dense, ripe and closed, with herbal characters to close. Very youthful. An interesting wine that will improve with a few years in the bottle.

Galafrey – Cabernet – 2005 (16.9). An interesting wine that is a bit old fashioned in style with dusty, earthy fruit. Opens nicely, and drinks well.

Long Flat – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (16.6). Fruit is in the cooler spectrum, with herbs and eucalypt fruit characters on the nose. Continues on the palate with some cedar and tobacco. Ripe tannins are a touch firm on the finish. Great value at less than $10.

Windrush – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (16.4). A good quaff this. Fresh and juicy fruit to start, with ribena, plum and herbal notes. This is a fruit-forward style with minimal oak apparent.

Cabernet and Merlot

23 March 2010

What does a good merlot taste like?

This is a question that I have asked myself many times. In Australia, merlot is as much a descriptor of a style of wine as it is a reference to a grape variety. Merlots (and cabernet/merlot blends) have a reputation amongst wine drinkers as being softer and easier drinking than wines labelled Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wineries have realised that the consumer is looking for a particular style in these wines and have moved further towards these softer, easier to drink styles. In this week’s panel tasting, we looked at a cross section of cabernets and merlots. There were two pairs of wines that demonstrated the styles that I have been describing.

The Castelli merlot is an excellent example of the easy drinking style. The wine has high quality fruit and excellent winemaking. The Heggies merlot is made in completely different style. This is a very structured wine that will benefit from many years in the cellar. The wines are chalk and cheese in style, yet both are very good examples of the merlot. I still do not know what a merlot is supposed to taste like, but these are fine examples!

The two wines from Juniper Estate further illustrated these stylistic differences. The cabernet/merlot is forward and fruit driven, while the cabernet sauvignon is structured and quite tannic. Drink the blend while you wait for the straight varietal. Obviously, this style difference is a generalisation with wines like the Cullen’s cabernet/merlot not fitting the easy drinking style.

Finally, there were a few standout wines. The Houghton Gladstone 2004 is a superstar, a spectacular wine in anyone’s language. This wine is expensive, and it deserves to be so. At the other end of the price spectrum, the Houghton “Stripe Range” cabernet/merlot and the Wynns cabernet/shiraz/merlot are fantastic wines for the price. These wines will be discounted to $8 and $12 respectively. Neither wine tastes cheap and both significantly over deliver in quality.

Tasted

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2004 (18.5). More mint and a touch of eucalypt to what is a serious wine. Powerful fruit is balanced by fresh acidity and a fine tannin structure. Yes, there is some new oak, but it really only plays a support role. Chewy finish adds to the palate. Give it 5-10 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2005 (18+). Amazing nose on this with ripe fruit, chocolate and coffee. Well made wine with a silky mouth feel. The structure is tight and fine and this wine is at the start of its life. Not yet released and will need several years to come out of the shadows of the 2004.

Heggies – Merlot – 2007 (18). Dusty, dense and briary on the nose, this is a serious wine that demands attention. The palate is big, rich and brooding with layers of dense fruit complemented by cedary oak. The long finish has balance. This is a masculine wine that demands aging. One for the aficionados. (RRP $40).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18). Wow, lovely wine with some tobacco leaf over ripe, structured fruit. Dense and deep, this has great line. The palate is seamless and whilst not a huge wine, there is great structure that ensures a long future. Excellent fruit quality and high class oak need time to mesh completely.

Castelli – Merlot – 2008 (17.8). The nose is dense, sweet and ripe. The fresh red fruit characters come to the fore. The palate is flooded with red currant, spice and a touch of vanilla and cedar to close. This is really silky and supple with fine tannins on a long finish. There is enough structure to please the enthusiast and take some bottle age. I challenge anyone not to like this wine. (RRP $25).

Wynns – Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot – Red Stripe – 2008 (17.7). Closed and dumb nose hint at potential. There is ripe fruit on the palate, with redcurrants and spice. Fine tannins complement the finish. Good mouth-feel with structure that builds in the glass. A pretty wine that will look good for many years. A bargain!

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.5). Dense, ripe fruit with dusty complexity. Some cedar and even cigar box over lovely blackcurrant fruit. The palate is structured, grippy and firm, with oak tannins overwhelming the fruit right now. Will open and improve with time, but drink the blend now.

Houghton – Cabernet/Merlot – Stripe Range – 2008 (17). Quite serious fruit here with minty eucalypt fruit that appears ripe. The silky mouth-feel defines a palate that shows blackcurrant and spice. There is a touch of chocolaty complexity on the finish of what is a balanced and well-made wine. A bargain!

Voyager – Cabernet/Merlot – Girt By Sea – 2008 (16.8). Some dusty cabernet characters with some capsicum and spice. Quite an herbal palate, with hints of red fruits. Dusty finish. Well made with varietal expression and should improve in the short term.

James Oatley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tic Tok – 2008 (16.8). Much more forward and fruit driven style. Bright red fruits with a hint of ribena. Follows on the palate with fine fresh fruits and a touch of strawberry even. A commercial style that is easy to drink.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet/Merlot – Juniper’s Crossing – 2008 (16.7) Forward and fruity nose, with some raspberry characters. The palate initially pleases with forward red fruit, but there is enough structure to keep things interesting.

Cabernet – New Release

1 February 2009

A mixed bag this week with a selection of good quality cabernets, and a bracket of sauvignon blanc. There were several note-worthy wines including the Crossings sauvignon blanc and the MadFish – Sideways cabernet. Both represent excellent value. The Vasse Felix cabernet is excellent.

The pair of cabernets from Houghton’s proved to be the most informative though. Both samples were left in a very hot stairwell for many days in the middle of summer. (This was prior to delivery to me). The Gladstone was showing obvious signs of heat damage that really flattened the fruit. The C.W. Ferguson was in much better condition, though perhaps not quite perfect. The Gladstone has a cork and the Ferguson is under screw cap. A compelling example of the benefits of screw caps.

So to the tasting…

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – C.W. Ferguson – 2007 (18.2). Wow. Fresh and vibrant fruit with clear varietal black-currant on the nose. Silky and fine, but with high quality fruit and oak. Fine and elegant and good drinking. Will improve with time. (May be even better with a fresh bottle).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (17.9). Wow, forward and lifted cassis on the nose with ripe red fruit and red-currants. Develops cedar and cinnamon with air. The palate is ripe and chewy. This is a big, rich wine with excellent mouth-feel. Soft tannins and supple acid make for excellent early drinking. The fine tannins build on the close which will support medium term cellaring.

MadFish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sideways – 2008 (17.8). Closed to start but with some vanillin tones and red fruits. Continues on the palate with black-currant and fine oak to close. Well made using good fruit. Fine tannins complement the fine cedary finish.

Crossings – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.4). Soft, fresh and perfumed, with some lantana as well as gooseberry and lychees. The palate is well balanced, round and generous. The finish is savoury and long. Zesty acid to close. This is really good drinking at around $15.

Capel Vale – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Debut – 2009 (17). Restrained and tight on the nose. The palate is subtle and quite seamless. Lemony fruit dominates the finish. Excellent balance and mouth-feel. A delicate wine.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Cerca – 2008 (17). Dense but closed.. This has quite serious fruit. The palate is dense, chewy, silky elegant, structured. Long and lean finish. Very fine tannins build. Needs ten years to show best though some may question the cooler fruit characters.

MadFish – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Turtle – 2007 (16.8). Ripe and dense. Good quality fruit. Red currant. The palate is quite lean, with good structure, but lacking depth. Will flesh out in a few years.

Deepwoods – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.7). A serious style that received more support from other panel members. Closed and dumb. Grapey characters on the nose and palate with some barrel ferment and oak characters. A touch of oxidative winemaking perhaps? Complex but not mainstream.

Cumulus – Sauvignon Blanc – Climbing – 2009 (16.5). Aromatic, but with a grassiness that cuts through on the nose. Some tropical notes and passionfruit. The palate is clean and fresh, but remains lean, tight and grassy. A lemony finish with plenty of acid. Apricot to close.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5.) Very pale. More in your face, forward and vibrant, but a bit too cheeky for my palate.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon –2008 (16.5). More closed and structured. Cooler fruit characters with some cigar box. Structured and well made, though the fruit is somewhat hidden on the closed finish. Could do with more fruit density, but will improve with bottle age.

Feet First – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (N.R.) . Good fruit and winemaking, but just too young to assess objectively.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2004 (N.R.). There is no doubt that this is serious, but the bottle was heat effected.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

12/12/09

The advantage of doing a blind tasting is that it enables you as the taster to get a perspective of what you are tasting without being biased by the label. And this proved so when we tried a selection of new release cabernet based wines.

The first thing that this tasting reinforced was the quality of the 2007 vintage in WA. It also highlighted that 2008 will be as good, if not better than 2007 if these early results are repeated in subsequent tastings.

Another point that stood out is that tasting numerous young cabernets can be hard work. At times I found it hard to see the fruit behind the firm structure that these wines displayed. Ultimately, many of the wines will score higher marks with time in the bottle, and I would be happy to recommend many of them to you. If you are going to drink them young though, decant them an hour or two before drinking to get the most out of them.

Tasted

Yalumba – Cabernet/Shiraz – FDR1A – 2004 (18.5). Wow. Cassis and spice, with a minerality that adds complexity. A touch herbal (a good thing), this is complex and intriguing. The palate is dense, ripe and forward. This is a warmer expression of cabernet than most here. There is even a touch of leather to the plum fruit. Super wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet – Abercrombie – 2007 (18/18.5). This is dense, savoury and very long. There is great fruit here and the wine is well made. The palate is very closed and dense. Chalky tannins to close are very fine, and the palate is finely textured. Give it lots of time.

Pedestal – Cabernet/Merlot – 2008 (18+). Closed on the nose, but has potential. The palate is dense, ripe, powerful and firm. Very drying tannins close the finish, but these are fine and ripe. This has high quality fruit, but needs ten years to show its best.

Preveli – Cabernet/Merlot – 2007 (18). Seductive violet and redcurrant. These carry through on the relatively seamless palate. Fine and elegant, this has classy fruit and winemaking. Supple and silky. This is a fine wine.

Barking Owl – Cabernet/Merlot – 2007 (17.8). Fine and elegant, the palate is defined by lovely red fruits and fine cedary oak that adds interest to the palate. Fine tannins are drying. One panellist suggested that clever winemaking techniques had been employed.

Flametree – Cabernet/Merlot – 2008 (17.75). This is dense, ripe and has sweet cabernet fruit of mint and blackcurrant juice. The density follows on a palate that is silky, complex, savoury, ripe, long and fine. This is elegant, but dense and has violets to close.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet/Merlot – Verse 1 – 2007 (17.5). This is tight but quite complete. Long, fine with supple oak that has cedary characters. The palate is quite seamless. One for the patient.

Castelli – Cabernet/Merlot – Cerca – 2008 (17). More forward and approachable nose. Ripe with red fruits. Long and fine finish. Not as dense as some, but offers better early drinking. Still has the capacity to age though.

Lamont’s – Cabernet – 2007 (17). Less forward than some here and herbal characters are evident on the nose. The palate shows sweet fruit characters with redcurrant, tar, anise and spice. There is touch of plum too. Not as complex or dense, but good drinking.

Moombaki – Cabernet/Cabernet Franc/Malbec – 2007 (17). A touch of old fashioned earthy characters on the nose, but the palate is initially bright and fresh. This bottle was showing some developed characters. Long and supple, with leathery notes on the finish. Satisfying.

Lamont’s – Family Reserve – 2007 (16.9). Opens with air. Sweet, ripe fruit with a touch of candy on the palate. Forward style, but has enough body to make for good drinking. The palate is a touch hollow. (15.5% alc).

Taltarni – Cabernet/Merlot – 2006 (16.9). Very dumb and closed on the nose, but showing some minty fruit. The palate is dusty, silky and very fine. This may evolve in the medium term.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet/Merlot – 2006 (16.5). Cooler southern Margaret River fruit apparent on the nose. Complex briary characters with savoury tones. Well made but struggles for ripeness in this challenging year.

Xabregas – Cabernet – Show Reserve – 2007 (16.5). The fruit here is in the plum spectrum. The palate is dense and chewy, long but a bit clunky. An interesting wine that may polarise.

New Release Cabernet (and Rose)

21 October 2009

I would like to start this review with a question. How many wines can one man make and for how many wineries? The man of the moment in Western Australian wines is undoubtedly Larry Cherubino. Having made a reputation for himself at Houghton Winery in the late 1990’s, Larry has since branched out with his own winery and as a contract/consultant winemaker for numerous local operations from the Great Southern and Margaret River.

Larry produces his own wines under the Cherubino/The Yard/Ad Hoc labels and is a consultant to many others. In this tasting, apparently the Pedestal and the Capel Vale both claim his input.

Of the wines tried, the Capel vale was a standout. This is not going to be cheap (think $70+), but it was very good. From a value point of view, the Higher Planes will make good drinking over the next few years and is a relative bargain at $20. It is not surprising to note that both these wines came from the stellar 2007 vintage.

We are steadily working our way through the backlog of Roses. I am pleased to report that we are down to a dozen or so bottles. What I now realise is that there is no “textbook” style for these wines. They vary significantly from fruit driven and sugary sweet to the dry and oxidised styles (See Shemerdine).

Reviewed

Capel Vale – The Scholar – Cabernet – 2007 (18.5). Dense and concentrated nose with cool fruit. There is a touch of mortein (good) and mint (also good). Some herbal notes too. The palate is ripe, fresh, long and supple. Really builds in the mouth. The fine tannins close down the fruit now, but the finish is silky. Developed ripe blackcurrant and mulberry fruit with air.

Houghton – C W Ferguson – Cabernet Malbec – 2007 (17.5). Clean and fresh, opens with some menthol and eucalypt fruit, but the fruit is ripe. The palate starts austere and dry, as the fruit and oak tannins hide the fruit. Could have a bit more flesh, but should develop nicely with a few years in the cellar.

Higher Plane – South by South West – Cabernet Merlot– 2007 (17.3). Seamless, fine and elegant. Very closed at the moment. A pretty wine.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.2). Dense and ripe fruit here with a touch of licorice and spice. The palate is dominated by black currant, spice and cedary oak, with a touch of vanilla on a drying finish. Medium bodied, the fine tannins close down finish. Classy.

Pedestal – Cabernet Merlot – 2008 (17). Complex nose with dense cabernet fruit and a touch of cherries. The palate is chewy, rich and textured. Not sophisticated but good drinking. A big man’s wine.

Pepperjack – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17). Opens with eucalyptus and menthol fruit. This is a big wine. Round sturdy fruit in the black spectrum. Eye watering. A cabernet for shiraz drinkers?

Amberley – Secret Lane – Cabernet Merlot – 2008 (16.5). Dumb to start with and very closed. The palate has some spice oak and red currant and it builds some chocolate texture with air. Not as concentrated as the best here.

Kiss Chasey – Rose – 2009 (16.3). Sweet smelling with some floral overtones. A touch of savoury characters too. The palate is savoury, spicy, long and interesting. There is gentile cherry fruit with a drying finish.

Shelmerdine – Rose – 2008 (16). This was a very pale brown in colour, attesting to the oxidised wine making style. The nose is clean and bright, but lacks any strong fruit character. This is an unusual style that should suit food.

Moss Wood Lunch with the Mugfords

7th August 2009

Lamont’s Wine Store – Cottesloe

There are not many certainties in life besides death, taxes and stock market crashes. Another that can be added to the list is that year in – year out, Moss Wood make fantastic wines that are at the forefront of their style. I was reminded of this recently when a small group sat down to lunch with Keith and Clare Mugford, the proprietors of Moos Wood, at a recent tasting at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. The idea was to try the new releases and also see how some of the wines age.

Established in the late 1960’s by Bill and Sandra Pannell, Moss Wood’s first vintage was in 1973. Keith joined the wine making team for the 1979 vintage and the Mugfords ended up taking control of the winery and vineyards in the mid 1980’s. The rest, as they say, is history.

In 2000, the Mugfords bought Ribbon Vale winery and vineyards to supplement the Moss Wood portfolio. This allowed for the expansion of the portfolio of wine in a way that complemented existing wines. I have been interested to watch the development of the Ribbon Vale wines over the last 10 years. While there is more vintage variation apparent than in the Moss Wood cabernet, in years like 2005, the wines are excellent. (I am looking forward to the 2007’s when they are released).

Consistency is a key part of why the wines from Moss Wood are so highly regarded. In years like 2001 and 2005, the wines are truly outstanding, and the equal of any cabernet based wine in the world. In lesser years, the wines retain their style and character, but perhaps loose a bit of the power. The 2006 Cabernet is a case in point. This was not the best year for reds in Margaret River, but as you will see below, the cabernet is an elegant and refined wine of real quality.

My tip: Buy the best years to cellar for the long term, and buy the lighter years to drink while waiting for the best to mature. At 5 – 10 years old, these wines will provide wonderful drinking, and allow wines like the 2005 to stay tucked away for the long haul.

NB. I attended this tasting as a guest of Lamont’s

Tasted

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). Very cold. Starts quite lean but opens with almond meal nuttiness and grassy notes. The palate is complex, grassy and long. There is more almond meal and apricot on the close.

Moss Wood – Semillon – 2008 (17.7). Really lemony to open, with lanolin. The palate is viscous, even oily, with grassy fruit and a touch of phenolics to close. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5). Complex but quite closed, pineapple fruit. The palate is complex, with some smoky oak grip. There is some peach and melon fruit, with roast cashews to close. A touch broad on the finish that detracts slightly.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 1993 (18.5). Developed, ripe and complex with peachy fruit. The palate is complex with nutty/mushroomy developed characters and a touch of lanolin. Lemony acid freshens the finish. Very long and seamless finish. Remarkable wine

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.3). Fragrant, perfumed and elegant. Touch of lemon too. In the mouth this is complex, with herbs and sour cherry fruit. Grippy tannins to close. These wines really don’t show that well young, but hit their straps after about ten years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2005 (18.3+). Ripe and quite linear at the moment. Lots of red fruits with raspberries and red currants. Touch of plum too. The fruit characters continue on the palate accompanied by fine, dusty tannins. Silky oak to close. This will improve for many years.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2007 (18.5+). Riper fruit, with lifted cherries and plums. Whilst ripe, the palate has fine chalky tannins to close. Cherries and plums build, and the palate is seamless. Very long and very good. Tight now, so give it some air, or better still, keep it for 10 years+.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (18). Developed, earthy, leathery and very long. There is a touch of mint and spice too. This is a leaner style, reflected in the mint and dried herbs on the palate. A lovely mature wine.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2006 (18.5). Wow, lovely sweet ripe fruit that has real perfume. This is supple with a touch of earthiness. Cinnamon, cloves and leather add complexity. Silky tannins to close. A feminine wine.