Tag Archives: Wine Review

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed – July 10 2011

Whilst only eight wines made it through the tasting to be reviewed here, there are some very interesting wines that are worth trying for yourself.

Windows Estate is not a wine I have heard of before, but I was very impressed with their wines.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2009 (18). Dense and inky wine that has excellent quality fruit. Whilst there is powerful fruit, the firm tannins and quality oak hold back the palate at present. This is less obvious than their cabernet merlot, but it will be a long term star if you are patient enough. An excellent wine!

Robert Oatley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.9). Blackcurrant aromas flood the nose. The dense fruit is combined with firm structural components. The linear nature of the palate ensures that this tastes like a straight cabernet. The palate is very long and fine, with complex red fruits, smart oak and good structure. Will benefit from some bottle age. (From Margaret River).

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2007 (17.8+). Leads off with some herbal and eucalypt notes, followed by peppermint highlights. The silky and supple palate has hints of dark fruits and chocolate, with fine tannins. This wine’s Coonawara origins are displayed by the menthol aromas and a rich dense core of blackcurrant fruit. I really enjoyed a glass of this with my dinner!

Harewood Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.6). Impressive fruit on what is an interesting style. This has very cool region cabernet fruit on the nose, with menthol and a touch of herbal notes, but the quality of the fruit is really evident on the palate. The sweet fruit is dense and the textural components are spot on.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). Little to show on the nose initially, developing menthol and red fruits with air. The palate is vibrant and expressive. Impressive fruit quality, subtle oak and silky tannins make this a wine worth trying. Just give it some air.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sideways – 2009 (17.5). Lovely perfumed nose. There is ripe fruit with violets and floral notes. There is also complex coffee, chocolate and spice notes. Again, the oak and fruit tannins close down the palate at first, but this is a smart wine.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). This is a refined wine. Silky and elegant, with fine fruit on the nose. Lovely texture, length and mouth-feel with excellent structure on the palate. Not a big wine, but the high quality fruit and wine making are evident. Has a cool region feel to it and represents good short term drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). A fresh wine that has some appeal. Refined and elegant, with excellent length of fruit flavours. Very silky tannins and clever oak hold the fruit back just now. This will be better in a year or two.

Pinot Noir and Cabernet

New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed – 2 June 2011

Like many things in life, the law of diminishing returns applies to wine. As the price goes up, the increase in quality gets progressively less. There is no doubt that going from $10 to $20 for a bottle of wine will deliver a significantly superior wine. But the difference between a $50 and $100 wine is often not so clear.

I mention this because every rule has an exception and, in this tasting, the Vasse Felix – Heytsebury is the exception. At close to $90 per bottle, it was clearly better than everything else here and is worth every cent.

If your budget does not stretch quite that far, then the wines from Brookland Valley, Devils Lair, Houghton and Leeuwin Estate are all worthy alternatives.

A word on value. The 2010 Bordeauxs are currently being sold via indent. The early reports are that the wines are very good. You can buy a good entry level wine for around $50 and the top wines are likely to be in excess of $1000 per bottle. You have to pay for the wines now and will receive them in 2013.

Any of the wines reviewed below represent far better value. You would struggle to find a Bordeaux for less than $100 that could match these wines and the Heytsebury, whilst different in style, is the equal of the best.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.6). Very pretty fruit here. The nose is actually quite floral and perfumed, hinting at red fruits and violets. The floral notes continue in the mouth. This is a pretty wine with great appeal. Whilst this is very fine and elegant, there is great power and concentration of fruit and superb mouth-feel and texture. The oak is fully integrated and the tannins are extraordinarily fine. High quality fruit and winemaking make for a spectacular wine at any price.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Cool climate fruit to the fore. There are herbal and menthol notes, but the underlying fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and powerful, yet the palate retains the cooler region flavours. Opens to show dense, ripe and textured fruit of great appeal. A long term wine in the style of great Bordeaux.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18). Silky, seductive nose that is ripe yet restrained. Cooler region fruit characters that show mint, eucalypt and gentle herbs. The palate is delicate and refined and the finish is silky and very long. Beautiful mouth-feel and quality fruit. Just needs a few years.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Scholar – Single Vineyard Series – 2008 (18+/-) Textbook nose. Concentrated, dense and ripe with restrained fruit. The palate is immensely proportioned, with smoky oak to close. Concentrated and very dense, this is a wine for the long haul. I struggled with this wine as there is so much concentrated fruit that it was hard to assess. Impossible to ignore, try a bottle and make up your own mind.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2005 (17.8). Very good concentration of fruit here. Cedar, eucalypt, mint and dark fruits all caress the nose. The palate is very textured and structured and there is excellent length and concentration. The finish shows silky tannins and a near seamless palate. Shows the benefit of a few extra years in the bottle, but will live for some time yet.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2009 (17.8). Closed, but with fairly straight-forward (high quality) fruit notes. The palate is varietally correct and full of juicy fruit. Builds concentration in the mouth. Has plenty of potential in a more obvious style. After two days on the tasting bench, this really opened up. Smart wine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2009 (17). Mint and cedar on the nose. The palate is cedary and long. The primary fruit is subdued but there is plenty of interest in the palate. Opens to show lovely fruit. Will get better points in a few years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17). Well rounded and balanced nose. Nicely weighted and textured, with enough character to make for a good drink. Not the most concentrated, but enjoyable.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – (Red Stripe) – 2010 (16.3). Lovely fresh nose that has purity to the fruit notes. A fruit-forward style that is simple but satisfying. A good value easy drinking red.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed 25 April 2011

Home Brand and Own Brand products have received a significant amount of attention since Coles slashed the price of “Coles” milk. This is not the forum to discuss the positives and negatives of the issue, but I raise it because of Coles’ and Woolworths’ involvement in wine retailing. Coles (Owned by Westfarmers) operates under the Vintage Cellars, Liquorland and First Choice banners, whilst Woolworths has Dan Murphy, BWS and Woolworths Liquor.

For several years, there have been numerous Home Brand, Own Brand and clean skin wines available from these and even smaller independent retailers. Some of these have been recommended in these pages before.

What has changed though is the increasing amount of wines made exclusively for the big retailers under the producers own name. A stunning example of this is the Kirihill shiraz reviewed below. What a steal this wine is! The other wine of note was the Earthworks shiraz which appears to be an own brand. Both wines are available from Vintage Cellars exclusively.

These are not great wines, but they offer fantastic drinkability. At the other end of the spectrum, the Mandala Butterfly is a beautiful wine and the Mount Horricks the best cabernet I have seen from this producer for several years. Enjoy…

Reviewed

Mandala – Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly – 2008 (18.3). Shy and reserved, though there are hints of blueberries. Really high quality fruit here and very slick wine-making. The palate is silky, supple and quite seamless, though there are very fine, almost powdery tannins that build on the finish. The length, structure and mouth-feel are first class. A superb wine, but give it plenty of air if you intend to drink this in the next few years.

Mount Horrocks – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Classic nose of Clare Valley cabernet, showing mint, eucalypt and a core of sweet red fruits. Textured and long, this is a fine wine of real interest. Silky mouth-feel and supple oak make for an excellent finish.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2008 (17.5 – 18+). Wow, really leaps out of the glass. Concentrated, dense and chewy, the toasty oak dominates the finish now. Powerful fruit and a classy finish suggest that this is going to be really good in a few years. A serious wine. 3 gold medals.

Cumulus Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – Climbing – 2009 (17.5). Lovely ripe fruit on the nose, with mint, spice and a touch of leather. Continues on the palate with good density of fruit. A quality wine displaying skills in the vineyard and the winery. Long and elegant close. This is a fine wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2009 (17.5). This is an Interesting wine. Medium bodied fruit and excellent balance. Textured and silky mouth-feel with a long finish that is elegant and persistent. Needs a few years to evolve.

Kirrihill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). Crushed ants, blackcurrant and a touch of cassiss to open. Powerful palate that is all about ripe fruit, though the finish is textured, dense and fine. The silky tannins are firm, but there is excellent fruit quality. This received extra points for being a good drink right now! $12 from Vintage Cellars only.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.4). Concentrated fruit suggestive of a cooler area. Dense and powerful, but really tight and young. Medium bodied with a slightly savoury finish and fine tannins to close. Has potential, but I need to see this again.

Laurance – Cabernet Sauvignon – Icon – 2009 (17.3). Dense and complex nose. Really draws you into the glass. Concentrated blackcurrant and a touch of crushed ants. The finish is fine and the fruit elegant, though the structural components close down the finish. Well made, with quality fruit, this will be even better in 5 years. (I liked this despite the unusual bottle that may prove difficult to cellar).

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2009. (17.2). Dense and a touch dusty to open. Ripe fruit tending toward the plum spectrum, but with lovely red fruits opening up on the palate. Very good length, ripe tannins and structure, this needs a few years to open up and show its best.

Mandala – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.2). Slightly dusty cabernet nose over a core of ripe fruit. Blueberry, blackcurrant, spice and cedary oak. The finish is firm, and the oak grip is a bit dominant at present. Good quality fruit has been handled well. Should evolve well in the medium term. (This was drinking beautifully after a couple of days on the tasting bench).

Earthworks – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barossa – 2008 (16.9). Forward fruit that is quite straightforward, but with obvious appeal. Packed with juicy fruit on the palate. Very good everyday red that has a soft and round finish. Benefits from having an extra year in bottle compared to most here. Value at $12.50.

Willow Bridge – Cabernet/Merlot- Dragonfly – 2009 (16.6). A sound, if somewhat commercial wine style. Balanced, long, juicy and not to complicated, this is good current drinking and should be excellent value.

Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release

Reviewed – 28 March 2011

There was a fairly high attrition rate in this tasting. This was mainly due to the disagreement between panel members on individual wines.

There were some high quality wines, with the Fraser Gallop and Vasse Felix being the standouts. 2008 has proved to be a very elegant year for Margaret River cabernet based wines. They are not quite as rich as the 2007’s but they are balanced and refined. The Leeuwin Estate is also noteworthy, coming from the more difficult 2006 vintage.

Finally, the cheapy from Shingleback offers great quaffing. It would be great with a lazy Sunday BBQ.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.1). Dense yet bright fruit. Cedar, cinnamon, blueberry and spice gently waft from the glass. Medium bodied, this is bit deceptive as the fruit is quit powerful and persistent. The finish is a touch firm at present, though there is no questioning the balance. This took two days to really open up, displaying a generosity of fruit that is very appealing. A smart wine for the cellar.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2006 (17.8). A touch more weight and power than the other older wines. This has fruit that tends toward the plum spectrum, but with fresh acidity and fine tannins. The mouth-feel and fruit weight are spot on. Blackcurrant on the close. This is a serious wine that took three days to show its best. It is one of the best 2006 Margaret River cabernets that I have seen.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8). A structured wine, with classic cabernet fruit aromas on the nose. There are cedary overtones, with mint, eucalypt and red fruits. The palate is a little firm, with mocha notes to the fore. The underlying fruit quality is excellent, but this needs 5 years to come together and will drink well for many more.

Tatachilla – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.7). Immediate appeal here. Forward and lifted fruit on the nose. Ripe, round, generous and fruit driven. There are lovely dark fruits on the palate. Deceptive finish as the soft fruit is the dominant character, but there is excellent length and persistence. Very fine tannins on the close become slightly chewy. Excellent short to medium term drinking. (From McClaren Vale).

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.6). Complex nose that possesses a degree of balance. A silky wine with bright red fruits. This presents as a fruit driven style, yet the structural components open up on the finish. Fine though drying fruit and oak tannins balance the finish of this modern and well made wine. A wine to watch over the next year or so as this may blossom.

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2006 (17.5). Still a touch reserved and shy. An elegant wine that is balanced and refined. Only medium bodied, this is silky and fine.

Parker Estate – Merlot – Terra Rossa – 2006 (17.4). Dense, yet sweet, ripe and generous fruit on the nose. Cedar and spice underpin blackcurrant and red fruit. Delicious fruit on the palate, but already showing some bottle development. The structure is mellowed enough to make this good drinking right now. Quality merlot.

Umamu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.3). Interesting nose that has both sweet and savoury components. Silky fruit that is elegant and refined. The fruit is a little shy and the very fine and silky tannins coat the tongue. A good wine.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2009 (17). A real crowd pleaser. Ripe, generous, soft and round, this wine has delicious mouth-filling fruit. This is not complicated or particularly serious, but it is an honest wine that delivers mouthfuls of drinking joy. With a RRP of $15 this is definitely worth a try but give it some air to allow the fruit to shine.

Cool Climate Cabernet

Last Sunday Tasting

11 February 2010

Non French, cool climate cabernet was the theme for our last Sunday tasting group. The topic itself generated quite a bit of discussion as to what cool climate referred to. We mainly went for wines from cooler sub-regions of the more recognised cabernet producing areas.

Overall, the quality of the wines was excellent and the wine of the tasting was the Larose from Stonyridge. A more complete wine you could not hope to taste. As always, the vagaries of cork played a role, with some potentially excellent wines not being reviewed due to questions around taint. Both the warm up whites were enjoyable, though the Vouvray had a surprising amount of residual sugar for a “sec”.

A special thanks to Eva for the excellent meal!

Reviewed

Stonyridge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Larose – Waiheke Vineyard – 2000 (18.5). Dense and inky colour. Fantastic nose with a touch of sea salt, blackcurrant and spice. Silky, vibrant and oh so long. Textured and very fine tannins. Touch of smoky oak on the finish.

Ridge – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Santa Cruz Mountains – 1996 (18.3). Silky and seamless, this is a lovely wine. The nose is mature and seductive, while the palate has lovely texture and a silky mouth-feel. Long and feminine.

Silver Oak – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alexander Valley – 1992 (18.2). Some earthy and meaty notes with lift and a touch smoky oak. Dense and vibrant fruit on the palate. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. There is a touch of vanillin oak on the very long palate. Complex and fully mature.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petite Verdot/Cabernet Franc – Harry’s Monster (18). Dense and powerful wine with licorice and allspice on the nose. The palate is a revelation. The fruit is still youthful but there is enough development and complexity to make for good drinking. Complete wine with balance and elegance.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003 (18). Classic nose. Powerful herbal and menthol notes with ripe blackcurrant in the background. Firm palate but ripe fruit tannins. Impressive.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1997 (17.8). Developed nose. Silky and sexy. There are some mint and eucalypt notes. Not as dense in the middle palate but complex and long. Lovely drink.

Bannockburn – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1991 (17.7+). A touch of earth pong on the nose. Leathery and supple on the palate, this is very long with blackcurrant and cinnamon. Mature, earthy and complete.

Rieussec – Semillon blend – R – 2007 (17.5). A dry white wine from this famous Sauterne producer. This is a complex wine that has had plenty of wine-maker’s inputs. There is peach and melon on the nose from the fruit and oak. The palate is textured, creamy and quite long. Oak still evident but there is also a lovely minerality. Needs time to open.

Wynn’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – (Black Label) – 1994. (17.5). Very youthful and firm. May evolve.

Domaine Huet – Vouvray – La Mont – Sec – 2007 (17.4). Slightly oily, this is viscous and aromatic with floral notes. The palate is round and complex with enough residual sugar to be noticeable. Lovely mouth-feel. (A touch sweet for a “sec” but delicious all the same).

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 1991 (17.3). Leather and spice. Some menthol and cloves. The palate is dense and taught with a touch of blackcurrant. A meaty wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (17). Sweet fruit nose with leather and briar. Aged and textured with savoury fruit. Mature but the finish remains firm.

Delatite – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – RJ – 1998 (16.8). Peppermint and cloves. Sweet fruit, but very drying finish.

Ridge – Santa Cruz Mountains – 2004 (16.5). Vibrant hue. Wow. Intense but youthful and firm. Tannins are ripe but dominant. Some herbal and capsicum fruit on the palate with a touch of sweet and sour sauce. Will probably get much better in a few years.

Cabernet – New Release

12 January 2011

The middle of summer is not the most obvious time to hold a cabernet tasting, so it was fortunate that the tasting room was air-conditioned. It was the temperature of the wine that received the most discussion however.

All wines in this tasting were served at 19 degrees C, a temperature that I think is ideal to serve red wines. One panellist felt that the wines were too cold to allow the fruit to be expressed properly. This is a thorny issue that comes down to personal preference. It is easier to warm a wine in the glass than to cool it down.

So to the wines… As you would expect, the Devils Lair was impressive and the Deepwoods – Reserve continues to impress. The surprise for me was the Timber Creek. An impressive wine by any standard.

Tasted

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.3). Intense and dense varietal fruit on the nose with blackcurrant, cinnamon, menthol and a touch of cedary oak. Fantastic quality fruit and wine-making. The oak is a touch forward now, but the silky ripe fruit will build with time in the bottle. Very modern, this really has everything.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely fragrant cabernet fruit on the nose. There is menthol, blackcurrant and cedar. The palate is soft, round, generous and extraordinarily fine and long. This is a very classy wine. Silky and seamless palate that really builds, the line and length are spot on.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Winemakers Selection – 2008 (18+). Another impressive wine, but not as overt as some here. Chocolate fruit suggests a warmer region. The fruit is more to the plum spectrum. The palate is solid, dense and tight, with licorice to close. A very well made wine with good texture and mouth-feel. Should have received a gold medal as this is a seriously goof wine, but it did not scream classic cabernet.

Timber Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Dense and powerful cabernet fruit on the nose. Mint, menthol, cedar, spice and eucalypt. Ripe fruit and quality wine-making. A fine wine that is good drinking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2008 (17.7). Another quality wine with ribena and plum fruit on the nose. This is in a different style reflecting Barossa fruit. A touch more astringent than the others here courtesy of the oak that is yet to fully integrate. Menthol and mocha on the finish, this has excellent mouth-feel and will develop for many years.

Aldersyde – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). Peppermint characters to the fore, typical of Coonawarra with a touch of herbal notes. Touch of insect spray and quality fruit. More of the same on the palate, with a dense, powerful finish that is very long. Excellent mouth-feel and intensity.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Dense and closed. This has dark fruits with a hint of chocolate and even licorice. Very silky and round, the high quality fruit and wine-making are immediately obvious.

Rymill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). The nose has a touch of chocolate and spice to open. The fruit on the palate is very dense and impenetrable The tannins from the oak and fruit shut down the fruit leaving a very chalky finish. This is a powerful, high quality wine that needs years to shine, though it is a different style to the wines from Margaret River.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17.5). Lovely ripe aromas of blackcurrant with some menthol and mint running through the nose. Soft, generous and silky palate, with very fine and dusty tannins providing grip on the finish. Satisfying medium bodied wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004 (17.5). Somewhat developed and dusty nose. Some blackcurrant and a hint of cassis. Quite soft and generous. The palate is rich and dense with a touch of chocolate to the fruit. Long and satisfying bottle age complexity makes this a standout. A dark berry plus herbaceous.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2009 (17.2). Quite dumb on the nose to start. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit that is neither heavy or cloying. The wine is more medium bodied, with oak only in the background. Well made, accessible and excellent value.

Palmer – Shiraz – 2003 (17). Rich wine, with more chocolate and dark fruits. The palate has coffee, mocha and spice. Satisfying without being overly complex. A sound wine that is developing nicely.

Madbay – Shiraz – 2008 (16.9). Fresh, almost purple hue. The nose is an intriguing blend of ripe cherries and red berries with a lovely savoury, almost sappy undertone. Fresh and juicy plum and cherry on the palate, this is great drinking. (Made by Howard Park/Madfish).

 

Bordeaux 2006

A Boot-full of Wine Tasting Notes from Italy (and beyond!)

Brendan Jansen

8 February 2011

Just off the plane from London and the Institute of Masters of Wine Annual Claret Tasting of the 2006 vintage, I thought I would pen my thoughts while they are still fresh.

The Annual Claret Tasting has a long history and dates back to when the IMW was the Vintners’ Company, one of twelve Great City of London Livery Companies. It is held annually in Vintners’ Hall, a wonderful venue worth a visit in its own right if you are ever in London.

The 2006 vintage in Bordeaux was a difficult one, and was always going to struggle in the shadow of the stellar 2005 vintage. In summary, bud break was late and flowering affected by coulure (failure of fruit set). April frosts were followed by variable temperatures over summer, with June/July being very warm and August very cool, but worryingly, also damp. The heat returned in September, and then heavy rain hit in mid September. Dry conditions then returned till harvest in October.

Therefore, there was some water stress to contend with (which, with the earlier frost damage, reduced yields), fluctuating temperatures (the cool August led to uneven ripeness), the risk of dilution due to the rain near harvest, and for some, the risk of rot. The last concern was compounded by the fact that many did not spray for rot given the warm July, and no leaf thinning (or green harvesting, which usually go hand in hand) was done due to the smaller yields and earlier heat. These conditions produced a real test of terroir.

In terms of soil types, and in particular relating to water delivery to the vine, the current state of thinking is that the quality of soils relate to their ability to deliver a modest level of water even in dry conditions, yet be free draining enough not to be affected by too much water in times of excess.

So in the best sites, 2006 has the potential to be a great year. In other areas, there might be dilution effects due to the rain, or lack of phenolic ripeness in those forced to pick early and quickly due to the risk of rot, with Merlot particularly at risk.

Though there were 96 wines at the tasting, and I got through 45 of them, I will not outline tasting notes for all of them – that would be just too boring! I thought instead I would outline my approach to the tasting, and share some of my discoveries.

On to the tasting….

So, here we were, in this beautiful, grand setting, in a Hall filled with Masters of Wine, who know Bordeaux like the back of their hand. Where to start?

The tables were laid out thus – one table for the slightly more southerly regions of Pessac/Graves, Haut Medoc and Margaux, another for the northerly St Julien, Pauillac, St Estéphe and Médoc, a third table for right bank St Emilion and Pomerol, and finally, a (small) table for (5) First Growths.

This is what I decided to do – taste 5 or 6 examples from each region, looking for similarities and differences. I would then try 5 or 6 from another region. I paid special attention to the potential differences between left and right banks, ie Cabernet Sauvignon vs Merlot dominant wines, using two glasses to taste representative samples of each at the same time.

For the First Growths, I decided to try a good producer from the exact same region (where I could, a Second Growth) and then try the relevant First Growth, again, in a pair.

What did I learn from the tasting? Well, there are some very smart 2006 Clarets out there. But there certainly are a few that show the dilution effect mentioned above. Some were very sulphurous on the nose, possibly indicative of the late need to spray on several occasions for rot, though I cannot be certain of this.

Some wines showed incredibly high levels of alcohol – 14% – reflective of warm conditions during parts of the growing season. Perhaps the earlier ripening Merlot based wines were more likely to show this tendency to a greater extent, if not picked early to avoid problems with rot.

Quality variability was at times striking, though most striking when the First Growths were compared against ‘lesser’ counterparts. They inevitably showed more power, more length, more complexity, more finesse, or indeed a combination of all of these.

Let me share just one example. On tasting the Château Lafite-Rothschild, I found it initially closed and rather austere and angular. Certainly there was less of the powerful fruit than the Mouton-Rothschild. It had nonetheless good complexity, and the essence of Cabernet fruit, with tomato leaf notes, cassis fruit, and firm tannins. Though not exactly underwhelmed, I wondered about what all the fuss was about. Then, as is my usual practice at tastings, I waited for the flavours to dissipate so that I could move on to another wine…. I waited and waited… I cannot remember when I have had to wait as long – the persistence of flavours was amazing!

The art and science of distinguishing between Left and Right bank wines is a real mug’s game. Cabernet and Merlot are not as distinctive in Bordeaux as they are in Australia. However, I came to the conclusion that palate weight rather than structure of the tannins was more helpful for me.

As for the distinguishing features of each region (like telling a St Julien and a Pauillac apart), I found picking them even more difficult.

Quality based on the classification system too is difficult to gauge. The Cru Bourgeois Château Chasse Spleen being the most obvious example.

Here are a few of the 2006 Bordeaux wines that caught my eye:

Reviewed

Pessac-Léognan/Graves

Château Brown (17.25). Mocha notes to start, with blackcurrant fruit breaking through on the subdued palate – clearly needs time.

Haut-Médoc

Château Belgrave – 5éme Cru Classé (17). Tomato leaf and capsicum on the nose, herbaceousness on the palate without being too ‘green’. Blackcurrant fruit, the essence of cabernet.

Margaux

Chateau Lascombes – 2éme Cru Classé (17.5). Deep and dense, great “line” (to borrow Len Evans’ term, which I mean to imply lip to throat flavour presence) despite predominant Cabernet fruit.

Château Rauzan-Gassies – 2éme Cru Classé (17.25). A bit sulphurous to start, but soon blew off. Delicate (in this case in keeping with the reputation of Margaux), and good structure.

Château Rauzan-Ségla – 2éme Cru Classé (17.25). Perfumed nose (again, in keeping with Margaux), rich with cassis, evident also on the palate. Lovely mouthfeel.

Moulis

Château Chasse-Spleen (17.25). Capsicum and blackcurrant nose and palate with firm but not overwhelming tannins. A beautiful mid weight Cabernet dominant wine that still needs time.

Saint-Julien

Château Gruaud-Larose – 2éme Cru Classé (17.75). Well proportioned wine with leafy Cabernet notes and enticing spicy complexity. Elegant mouthfeel.

Saint-Emilion

Chateâu Pavie-Decesse – Grand Cru Classé (18). Big nose of coffee and dark red fruit. Menthol hints add complexity to a bold palate, ripe tannic grip.

Chateâu Trottevielle – Premier Grand Cru Classé (17.75). Again, coffee evident on the nose. Rich full palate of currant fruit.

Château Figeac – Premier Grand Cru Classé (17.75). Strong Cabernet – perhaps Franc – notes without being ‘green’, fresh and lightly tannic.

Pomerol

Château Clinet (17.75). Inviting nose of rich redcurrant, kirsch and plum fruit, with a lovely round palate.

Château Gazin (17.75). Less ‘heavy’ than the Clinet, with a menthol, even eucalypt lift, to a cassis driven palate, very persistent.

CONCLUSION

The vintage was thought to be at its best in Saint Julien and Pauillac (not represented above – perhaps I just chose the wrong examples to taste in the limited time available) and in the free-draining gravel slopes of Saint Emilion and Pomerol (better represented by wines that created an impression on my palate above).

For the record, all the First Growths scored gold medal points, each impressing for various reasons – the Haut-Brion for its complexity, the Margaux for its power and length, the Lafite for its modesty yet persistence, the Mouton for its incredible depth, and the Cheval Blanc for its ballet of flavours on the palate that just went on and on….

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Cabernet and Bordeaux Varietals

10 November 2010

It has been interesting to watch the development of the cabernet sauvignon/merlot blends over the last few years. There has been a real move to making these more accessible as compared to the straight cabernets from the same wineries. (Of course there are exceptions like Cullens etc).

A solid selection of wines on show here. The top four wines are all worthy of attention, and all could have scored higher on a different day. From a value/quality balance, the Ferngrove comes out on top. An excellent wine. In the medium term, the Forester will probably emerge on top for quality.

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2008 (18.1+). Concentrated fruit. This has a real density to the fruit on the nose. There is sweet cabernet fruit on the palate, with blackcurrant, cedary oak and quite silky tannins. Quality fruit, excellent length and mouth-feel make for an excellent wine.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Classic Margaret River fruit with cedar, eucalypt and menthol overlaying blackcurrant and earthy fruit notes. The palate continues the theme, and is amazingly seamless. This is only medium bodied, but has plenty of fruit intensity typical of a cooler area.

Juniper Crossing – Merlot – 2008 (17.9). Perfumed and more elegant in style, this has instant appeal. Soft, plumy fruit with black cherry and savoury overtones. Excellent length and texture, this is a stylish wine. Will develop well in the medium term.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.8+). Fresher than some here and with an appealing nose. The palate is dense yet fine, elegant yet structured. The tannins (fruit and oak) are supple and silky and the length impressive. Do not underestimate this wine.

Boston Bay – Merlot – 2008 (17.6). More fragrant, yet firm and structured. Cherry, plum and spice, followed by dusty tannins and some vanillin oak tones. This is a powerful wine that has the structure needed to cellar for many years, but will the balance remain? Perhaps best to enjoy this over the next 5 years.

Chateau Laroque – St Emillion – Grand Cru – 2001 (17.6). Starting to brown on the edge. Much more dense and closed. Elegant style that is pretty and well balanced. Just starting to get some savoury, aged characters and the length is good. Very good, but slightly rustic (one panellist marked it down for the rustic notes).

White Dog Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.4). Vibrant and lifted fruit on the nose. Plum, herbs and a touch of eucalypt/menthol all apparent. Juicy, plump and generous, this is very drinkable, yet there is enough structure via fine oak and tannins to live on. Firm finish.

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2008. (17.3). Slightly sweet and sour with some firm notes over the top. Somewhat firm and sturdy. Dense fruit, typical of malbec. Well made with good use of oak and good balance. Strong support from the rest of the panel.

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Horseshoe Row – 2008. (17.3). Pretty and forward nose with lovely red fruits and a touch of cherry. Cherry, spice and cinnamon all vie for attention on a straightforward and uncomplicated palate. Good support from all, but the bottle is very low rent!

Tintara – Cabernet Sauvignon – Chapter 3 – 2008 (17.3). Quite closed, but showing nice balance. There is a touch of licorice to the palate, yet the oak and tannins (very fine) subdue the fruit. A good wine that needs a few years to perform at its best. (I will be interested to see if a famous champagne house complains about the label colour!)

Castea – Merlot – Cotes de Castillon – 2004 (17). Lovely brick red, this has dusty notes to the fruit. Touch of earth, plum and leather lend with more primary fruit characters. Mature palate that while not generous, is balanced and satisfying.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River Versus Great Southern

The Hyatt Cup

1 November 2010

Passionate …

When it comes to passion and wine, there is John Jens and then there is everyone else. John’s belief that Western Australia produces Australia’s best cabernet based wines is well documented. John’s support of the industry is quite selfless.

The Hyatt Cup is a classic example. In an effort to highlight the quality of WA wines, John teamed up with the Hyatt to arrange a tasting of 16 of the best Cabernets from Margaret River and the Great Southern to see if one region was clearly superior. The results were spectacular. 20 glasses of wine pre-poured in front of each of the 65 guests. The first eight were from the 2004/2005 vintages and the last twelve from the 2008 vintage.

2004 was a very good year in the Great Southern, and 2005 was very good for Margaret River. 2008 was an excellent Margaret River Vintage. Rob Mann from Cape Mentelle describes the wines as having a clarity of fruit and vibrancy. John Durham (winemaker at Plantaganet) felt southern Margaret River showed better than northern in 2008, whilst the Great Southern was probably better for shiraz than cabernet that year due to the coolness of the vintage.

So which was better? The wines from the Great Southern showed a generosity of fruit that made them more seductive, whilst the Margaret River wines tended to have more structure. When it came to preferences, the room was evenly split. My picks included the Hardy’s, Woodlands, Vasse Felix and 2004 Jack Mann. In reality, most of the wines here were superb, and worthy of inclusion in this fascinating exercise.

So a big thanks to John for putting together an amazing showcase of WA wines. All of this from a Collingwood supporter who hails from Victoria!

Thanks should also go to the Hyatt for their generous support of the event.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2004 (17.5). Some mint to the cherry and red fruits on the nose. Dusty cabernet fruit with the first signs of development. Really opens up to show blackcurrant fruit. Leather and spice to open, and gentle red fruits. The tannins are still firm and hold the finish together really well. Good drinking

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2004 (18.4). Really perfumed nose with redcurrant, cherries and violets. Lovely red fruits on a palate displaying ripe and succulent fruit. Very good fruit quality. Elegant and refined, this has excellent length. A touch of mortein to close adds interest. Classy

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madelaine – 2005 (18.2). Fresher than some in this bracket. Dense and structured, this is a powerful wine. Cooler fruit characters with eucalypt and spice. The palate is firm and tight, with the oak and grippy tannins still dominating the finish. This really needs 5 -10 years to show its best (screw cap).

Balnaves – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Tally – 2004 (17.7). Menthol and some sour cherry/satsuma plum notes to open. Develops lovely perfumed fruit. The palate is dense and the fruit plump and really juicy. Lovely ripe fruit dominates the palate, and the tannins are incredibly fine though a touch chewy. Fruit falls away a touch in the mid palate. Rob Mann described it as having classic Coonawara Choc-Mint.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2004 (18.5). More complex and intriguing nose. Cedar and blackcurrant/dark fruits to the fore. Firm, textured, tight and closed. This has all the hall marks of a great wine, though it needs many years to fully develop.

Hardy’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2004 (18.6). Cooler fruit characters to this, with some capsicum and menthol. This has quality fruit and real density. The wine-making is excellent, and the length and depth of flavours are fantastic. Chewy fruit and excellent mouth-feel point to a star. The style may polarise. 100% Margaret River cabernet from a single vineyard.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18). Classic cabernet fruit here. Pretty, elegant, refined and classy. This has dark fruits and chewy tannins. The grip on the finish is in danger of overwhelming the fruit, but the wine manages to stay in balance. A structured wine of distinction.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18.4). Quite developed nose with some earth and leathery fruit notes. Lovely fruit on the palate including redcurrant. Very long and quite seamless, this is probably the best drinking wine here. The very fine tannins are deceptive, as they add important structure to the wine but you hardly notice them.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Much fresher and very dense. There is a touch of chocolate amongst the fruit. The palate is really inky and dense yet there is a purity of fruit. Very powerful and structured, there is more of the chocolate fruit on the palate. Quite textured, there is little of the mint I was expecting. Excellent length and structure.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.5). Pretty fruit. Lifted violets and redcurrant with some cedar and a touch of ribena. Wow. Superb fruit here. Ripe, fine, elegant, textured, but full of latent power. The pretty fruit dominates the palate, but make no mistake, this is a powerful wine with incredible length and depth to the palate.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). More of the capsicum/cedar fruit here, again suggesting a cooler vintage in Margaret River. Dense and textured, this is just a baby. The palate is powerful and very long. There are cooler fruit characters to the very fine finish. The style will polarise, but a fine wine. Herbal notes with cumin and spice on a powerful finish.

Plantaganet – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). More of the chocolate density here. This wine initially lacks fruit, but it really builds in the mouth and very fine tannins caress the tongue on the finish.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Wow. Lifted ripe red fruits with a touch of vanillin oak. The palate is dense and powerful, with grippy tannins to close. A big and powerful wine, this is a bit of a sleeping giant. Excellent fruit quality but needs many years to come around.

Majella – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.5). Pretty wine with cassis and cedar overtones. There is a touch of insecticide, and a lovely sour plum nose. There is a riot of flavours here. Ribena/cassis mint, menthol and cherry. Lovely souring acid really adds to the finish. The tannins are firm yet fine and the length is excellent. The balance was questioned by one member of the panel.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2008 (17.8). Lifted and seductive nose. The palate is more about structure, with red fruit overtones. Lacks the generosity of others here, but this will improve with time.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Complex, dense, ripe and structured, this is a wine of class. Powerful, this has masses of dark fruits. Yes there are some blackcurrant notes, but plums, cedar, mocha and spice are the dominant flavours right now. Very powerful, this has a long future.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madelaine – 2008 (18.5). Cedar and spice to open. Much leaner style, there is souring fruit and a touch of plum too. This is a wine that is easy to underestimate due to the subtlety and delicate fruit. Opens to show pristine fruit. For the purists.

Balnaves – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Tally – 2008 (18.2). More of the minty cabernet fruit notes on the nose, with cedar, cinnamon and a touch of clove. The palate shows ripe fruits, but again there is a coolness (menthol and mint) running through the palate. Excellent length and structure, this is a fine wine, though the style may polarise.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18.3). Dense. Some mint and eucalypt on the nose. The palate is dense and structured. There is a generosity to the fruit characters that make this instantly enjoyable. Length and texture are superb. Slightly chewy tannins to close guarantee a long future.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shellie Anne – 2008 (18.5). A touch of insecticide and lots of Margaret River mint and eucalyptus characters. A lovely wine of real class and distinction. Superb length and mouth-feel. Very long and structured, this is a very fine and elegant wine.