7th August 2009
Lamont’s Wine Store – Cottesloe
There are not many certainties in life besides death, taxes and stock market crashes. Another that can be added to the list is that year in – year out, Moss Wood make fantastic wines that are at the forefront of their style. I was reminded of this recently when a small group sat down to lunch with Keith and Clare Mugford, the proprietors of Moos Wood, at a recent tasting at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. The idea was to try the new releases and also see how some of the wines age.
Established in the late 1960’s by Bill and Sandra Pannell, Moss Wood’s first vintage was in 1973. Keith joined the wine making team for the 1979 vintage and the Mugfords ended up taking control of the winery and vineyards in the mid 1980’s. The rest, as they say, is history.
In 2000, the Mugfords bought Ribbon Vale winery and vineyards to supplement the Moss Wood portfolio. This allowed for the expansion of the portfolio of wine in a way that complemented existing wines. I have been interested to watch the development of the Ribbon Vale wines over the last 10 years. While there is more vintage variation apparent than in the Moss Wood cabernet, in years like 2005, the wines are excellent. (I am looking forward to the 2007’s when they are released).
Consistency is a key part of why the wines from Moss Wood are so highly regarded. In years like 2001 and 2005, the wines are truly outstanding, and the equal of any cabernet based wine in the world. In lesser years, the wines retain their style and character, but perhaps loose a bit of the power. The 2006 Cabernet is a case in point. This was not the best year for reds in Margaret River, but as you will see below, the cabernet is an elegant and refined wine of real quality.
My tip: Buy the best years to cellar for the long term, and buy the lighter years to drink while waiting for the best to mature. At 5 – 10 years old, these wines will provide wonderful drinking, and allow wines like the 2005 to stay tucked away for the long haul.
NB. I attended this tasting as a guest of Lamont’s
Tasted
Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). Very cold. Starts quite lean but opens with almond meal nuttiness and grassy notes. The palate is complex, grassy and long. There is more almond meal and apricot on the close.
Moss Wood – Semillon – 2008 (17.7). Really lemony to open, with lanolin. The palate is viscous, even oily, with grassy fruit and a touch of phenolics to close. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar.
Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5). Complex but quite closed, pineapple fruit. The palate is complex, with some smoky oak grip. There is some peach and melon fruit, with roast cashews to close. A touch broad on the finish that detracts slightly.
Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 1993 (18.5). Developed, ripe and complex with peachy fruit. The palate is complex with nutty/mushroomy developed characters and a touch of lanolin. Lemony acid freshens the finish. Very long and seamless finish. Remarkable wine
Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.3). Fragrant, perfumed and elegant. Touch of lemon too. In the mouth this is complex, with herbs and sour cherry fruit. Grippy tannins to close. These wines really don’t show that well young, but hit their straps after about ten years in the cellar.
Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2005 (18.3+). Ripe and quite linear at the moment. Lots of red fruits with raspberries and red currants. Touch of plum too. The fruit characters continue on the palate accompanied by fine, dusty tannins. Silky oak to close. This will improve for many years.
Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – 2007 (18.5+). Riper fruit, with lifted cherries and plums. Whilst ripe, the palate has fine chalky tannins to close. Cherries and plums build, and the palate is seamless. Very long and very good. Tight now, so give it some air, or better still, keep it for 10 years+.
Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (18). Developed, earthy, leathery and very long. There is a touch of mint and spice too. This is a leaner style, reflected in the mint and dried herbs on the palate. A lovely mature wine.
Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2006 (18.5). Wow, lovely sweet ripe fruit that has real perfume. This is supple with a touch of earthiness. Cinnamon, cloves and leather add complexity. Silky tannins to close. A feminine wine.