Reviewed – 10 March 2012

There was some discussion amongst the panel as to the quality of the 2009 vintage in Margaret River. It is my view that these wines are deceptively easy to drink as the fruit is ripe and approachable. Look beyond this though and there is a fine backbone to the wines that should ensure that they age well. Perhaps, not as long lived as the 2008s, these may provide better drinking in the short to medium term.

I have commented before on how youthful many wines are these days. It was refreshing to see the Clarault from 2007 in this tasting. The extra drinkability that the bottle age confers was enough to get it over the line for a gold medal.

Reviewed

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Cellar Release – 2007 (18.5). Ticks all the boxes. Classic nose of red fruits, mint and gentle eucalypt with subtle cedary overtones. Superb palate that is refined, precise and very long. This is not a big wine, but there is latent power to the fruit. Excellent length and fine structural components. Very well made, using high quality fruit. The fact that this is such good drinking now tipped it in to the gold medal bracket.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Tight and refined nose. Cedary oak combines well with complex berries and spice. Long and dense, this has plenty of potential. I particularly liked the silky mouth-feel and excellent length. Very reserved, elegant and inviting, there is an intense core of berry fruit that carries right through the palate. An elegant wine of distinction.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 2 – 2010 (17.5 -18). Powerful nose up front with a palate that is bursting with flavour. Quite robust, this is a candidate to go along with your favourite Spaghetti Bolognese if you must drink it now. Dense, long and textured, the oak handling really suits the fruit. This is a powerful wine with great structure and it should age for many years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.7). Another super wine here. Lovely fresh fruit on the nose and palate, with enough textural notes to make the finish very attractive. Ultimately, not as dense as the best, but a cracking effort.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Closed, but shows ripe fruit (fresh berries). A solid wine that delivers immediate pleasure with a lovely mouth-feel, good length and decent fruit weight. Not overly massaged in the winery, this is a solid effort. With air, the fruit and structure start to show through. One to watch.

Streicker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Ironstone Block – Old Vine – 2009 (17.5+). Beautiful, almost ethereal nose. This is so seductive, with perfume, red berries and plum over cedary oak. The palate appears more about primary fruit initially, though this is deceptive as the finish is very long and builds in power. This evolves in the glass and the mouth suggesting it may get higher points as it develops over time.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). This wine divided the panel, with two judges giving high silver medals. Mint, eucalypt and even a touch of insecticide all proclaim the Margaret River origins here. Dense, dark fruit that has hints of cedar and spice over lovely plum and berry fruit. There is even at touch of aniseed. In the mouth, the length and structure are stand-outs. Very fine and refined, this has excellent fruit that has been handled very well. Uncompromising, this needs time to fully express itself.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2010 (17.4). Lovely fresh fruit with hints of mint and eucalypt. Not overly serious, but attractive and elegant. Tar, spice, tannins and acid complement the quality fruit. The structure really is quite good and the finish fine and silky. This will improve for a few years making for excellent mid term drinking.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.1). Bright and forward nose with blackcurrant. The palate is flooded by sweet fruit that is reasonably complex and quite dense. Finishes well, making this an excellent mid week wine for early consumption. Good length.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Premium Red – 2009 (17). A well made, if straight forward, wine. The silky finish is quite long and this may improve in the short term. Good drinking and excellent value.

Leaping Lizard – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.9). Quite a silky wine, with blueberry, cedar and gentle spice. Very well made, the tannins and structure are highly polished and very refined. Good length and a finish that evolves and builds. The only question was around the balance.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). A touch rustic on the nose. A sturdy wine with solid fruit. Quite juicy and fleshy, this would make an excellent pizza wine.