15th August 2009

This week saw the panel look at 20 current release rieslings, primarily from Western Australia. While it is quite hard work trying 20 wines high in acidity, these tastings allow a sense of perspective on what is happening out there. The most interesting aspect to come from this is to see how styles are evolving.

The panel made note of the fact that many of the wines tasted were high in acid, but with their primary floral fruit suppressed somewhat. There is no doubt that many of the wines will improve dramatically in the cellar, but they are hard work right now.

There are exceptions of course, and the pair of wines from Galafrey were a highlight. Given that the reserve will sell for $20 or less, they represent outstanding value. Buy a case of each, and drink the standard while you wait for the reserves to mature. The Castle Rock continues to impress, as attested to by the fact that I have already consumed half the case that I bought.

The Abbey Creeks and the Duke’s were a disappointment, and I wonder if these bottles had problems with there handling.

Tasted

Galafrey – Dry Land Reserve – Riesling – 2009 (18+). Essence of riesling here. Really perfumed with roses and violets. The palate is long, fine and complex. There is fine acid structure and zesty fruit too. Sweet fruit to close. Seductive.

Castle Rock – Riesling – 2008 (18). Fresh lime and zest on the nose, the palate is lively, bright, mouth watering and long. The fruit really builds. Drinks well, but will age well.

Gilberts – Riesling – 2008 (18). This wine is all about minerals, acidity and length. The fruit is very shy at the moment. This will be very good with time.

Galafrey – Dry Land – Riesling – 2009 (17.9). Pretty wine that opens with musk sticks and lime juice. The palate is long, floral and pretty. Lime to close. Modern, fresh and delicious.

KT and the Falcon – Peglidis Vineyard – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Fresh and vibrant fruit, with a touch of caramel. The palate is long, with fine acid. The fruit builds. This really opened up the next day with classic Clare fruit.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Riesling – 2008 (17.4). A perfumed, and complex wine with rose water notes. The palate has lemony fruit, minerals and more floral characters. Fruit checked by acid. (This wine requires a bit of faith, as experience has shown that these wines age brilliantly)

3 Drops – Riesling – 2008 – Twist (17.2). Fresh lemon and lime brulee. This is bright with crunchy granny smith apples on the palate. Very long, but has bracing acidity right now. Textured to close. Serious wine that needs years to reach its peak. Opened up nicely with air.

Goundrey – Reserve – Riesling – 2008 (17). A pretty wine, but without the structure of the 3 Drops. Floral and fragrant.

Xabregas – Show Reserve – Riesling – 2009 (17). Closed. There is acid and musk. There is good fruit underneath, but it will take the brave or the patient to find out. Musk and acid+++. The fruits good but I am not prepared to find out.

Plantagenet – Riesling – 2004 (16.9). Some developed characters on the nose, that follow onto a developed and round palate. Some floral characters too. Good drinking, but lacks zing.

Duke’s – Magpie Hill Reserve – Riesling – 2008 (16.5). Tropical fruit, with even a touch of durian. Searing acidity masks all fruit. May improve dramatically in the bottle.