Reviewed: 7th February 2014
In a line up of 25 red Burgundies, the wines of Emilie Geanet stood out for their sheer quality. Admittedly, they are not the cheapest wines available, but they are certainly worth looking for if you enjoy quality Burgundy.
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.4). Pretty, perfumed fruit on the nose, but there is a degree of richness too with hints of cinnamon and apple. The palate is chewy and just a little robust, with a dusty/chalky texture on the finish. A feminine wine, with very good fruit quality and deft oak handling. Needs a couple of years to settle. ($90).
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Very attractive nose that combines floral notes with gentle herbs and spice. The palate is silky, supple, elegant and very long. The mouth-feel really is a highlight with fine tannins framing the fruit. An almost plush wine that provides immediate pleasure. The oak use has added depth, but no overt characters.
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2011 (17.5+). Almost new-world in style with pristine, ripe fruit. Aromas tend to strawberry. The palate is fresh and light, with a delicious, savoury twist to close. Not overly dense, but a pretty wine that offers drinking pleasure. The slightly sappy acid and spicy oak ensure that this will complement food well. ($58).
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2011 (17.8). Very pretty wine that has vibrant/attractive fruit with supple, savoury/spicy undertones. The palate is long and quite dense, with well handled oak. Flavours tend to strawberry, with black pepper and earthy notes. This is quite a savoury wine that can be drunk now with food, (decanting recommended) or cellared for a few years with confidence.
Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – Pernand- Vergelesses – Ile Des Vergelesses – 2010 (17.9). Savoury/sappy wine of some charm, this is deceptively concentrated and long. The finish is a highlight with the fruit and texturing oak fanning out across the palate. Delicate fruit with hints of rose and red berries. Very persistent, the supple/savoury close makes this an excellent drink.
Emilie Geantet – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2010 (17.5). Lithe, fresh and delicious, this is a supple wine that still has enough structure and depth to make it quite a serious drink. The mouth-feel is a highlight, with succulent fruit that really lingers.
Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grands Epenots – 2009 (18). This is the most structured of the wines to date and a serious wine with poise and balance. There is very good, quality fruit that has been expertly handled. The cherry fruit is still tight and quite closed, but a little time will reward this handsomely. Whilst approachable now, this will be better in 5 years.
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2009 (18). Structured and powerful, this has it all. Ripe fruit, structured oak and fine, though prodigious tannins. The length is superb. This needs 5 years before being approached to allow the high quality fruit to emerge from behind the veil of structure. Mouth-feel not quite silky, but still delicious. Oak dominates the fruit now, but this will settle. Very complex, with perfume, spice and hints of soya to close.
Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2011 (18-18.5). Softer and more approachable with sweet, ripe fruit. This is plush, rich and quite thick in the mouth. Not viscous, just dense and layered with plum and cherry over anise, earthy notes and a touch of smoke. An impressive wine now, given how approachable this is.
Thenard – Pinot Noir – Corton – Clos du Roi – Grand Cru – 2010 (18). Closed, yet silky, this wine just hints at potential on the nose. The palate is tight and fine, yet the fruit builds and lingers. This is a serious wine that has been made for the future, not now. Opens to show hints of strawberry, oak spice and gentle earthiness. Ripe tannins frame the finish.
Thenard – Pinot Noir – Grand Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2010 (18.5). A delightful wine that is closed and shy, yet delicate, attractive and full of personality. This is a feminine style, with purity of fruit, yet it is restrained and silky. Very fine fruit and winemaking, with hints of cedary oak rounding out the finish. Superb mouth-feel and length, this is an exercise in balance.