New Releases: November 2021

Barry Weinman: 24^th November 2021

The importance of serving wines at the correct temperature was highlighted to me with this tasting. We were lucky enough to taste through a range of Pinots from Lowestoft, the Fogarty Wine Group’s new venture in Tasmania.

Initial impressions were very good, but the wines were served a little warm, as they had arrived in a car just before the tasting.

So it was difficult to get an accurate read on the absolute quality, as the temperature masked some of the wine’s elegance and balance.

Definitely a winery to watch!

From South Australia, it is great to see the continued evolution of Sevenhill in the Clare Valley. 2021 is the first vintage since the last of the major structural changes were made, and the first wine that I have tried from the vintage (27 Mile Riesling is a cracker).

There was also a strong showing from some of the 2020 wines. I, for one, am excited to be able to see the changes made in the vineyard and winery translate into high quality wines.

Closer to home, Houghton delighted the panel with their fragrant 2020 Wisdom Pinot, whilst the excellent 2019 Rosabrook Dear Father Cabernet is a bargain at $35 from the cellar door.

Reviewed

Sevenhill – 27 Miles – Riesling – 2021. The changes in the vineyard and winery at Sevenhill are evident here. Lovely Clare fruit showing slate, lemon and mineral notes. The palate is taut and refreshing, with hints of floral sherbet. The elegance and silky texture are a feature on the finish. Age-worthy and very good. 93+pts – $50

Sevenhill – Spire’s Lament – Viognier – 2020. Pretty floral notes on the nose matched to a fresh, vibrant, zesty palate, with a lovely, slightly viscous texture and excellent fruit weight. Apricot fruit builds on the long finish. Delicious, this is summer in a glass. 91pts – $45.

Sevenhill – Open Range – Grenache – 2020. Pretty and supple, with bright juicy berry fruit supported by gentle savoury notes. On the palate, this is all about the joyful fruit, with gentle winemaking inputs adding to the package. Not complicated or serious but an excellent drink. The potential at Sevenhill is starting to show with this wine. 92pts – $80.

Leo Buring – Leonay – DW17 – Riesling – 2021. A different style to many, and all the better for it. This is supple, savoury and seamless, with a core of citrus running the length of the palate. Lemony acidity builds in the mouth, with floral notes and a dusting of talc on the finish. Intense yet delicious. And very age-worthy. Only 11% alc. 95pts.

Houghton – Wisdom – Pinot Noir – 2020. Another excellent release from Houghton. This is fine, elegant and moreish with excellent mouthfeel and texture. The balance is spot-on straight from the bottle. Delicious drinking now – five years. 91pts.

Trait – Sauvignon Blanc – 2021. Cloudy as this is unfiltered and unfined (production was too small apparently). I like this a lot. Vibrant fruit, with tropical and floral notes leads to a palate that is textured and complex, really benefiting from the barrel ferment (old oak) and lees work. Lemony acidity carries the finish. An interesting and impactful wine that will evolve over the next 6 – 12 months. 92pts – $35

Lowestoft – Lowestoft Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2019. Whilst the fruit here is lighter in style, this has seen the gamut of winemaking inputs, albeit in a sympathetic way. Opens with almonds and cashew nut, develops pineapple and stonefruit and then transitions to lees, malo and oak (fine and tight). A youthful and elegant style showcasing modern winemaking and pristine cool-climate fruit. 95pts.

Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Chardonnay – 2020. Complex and worked, this is intense, powerful, dense and possessing great depth. The fruit is in the stonefruit spectrum but there is subtle grapefruit and melon notes sitting alongside this. The structure and texture are outstanding and the finish is very long and fine. I love it. From Wilyabrup. 95+pts – $60.

Rosabrook – Dear Father – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is intense and powerful, with quality fruit at the core. The balance is exemplary, with the fine textural notes providing a frame for the fruit. Delicious now but would also benefit from ten years in the cellar. A complete wine and a contender for best value Cabernet in 2021. 95pts – $35.

Morlet: Winery in Focus

Barry Weinman: 17^th November 2021

Like many wine lovers, Nigel Morlet and Phillipa Lamont dreamt of taking their passion for wine to the next level and starting a vineyard.

Unlike almost all of us though, the couple turned that dream into a reality with the purchase of an established vineyard on Clews Rd in Cowaramup over a decade ago, with the focus on supplying grapes to other producers.

The quality of the fruit must be very good as all the Cabernet produced has been sold under contract. But with a variety of grapes grown on the vineyard (four hectares under vines), the couple were able to produce their first wine under the Morlet label in 2011 with a Zinfandel. This was later joined by a Chardonnay and Petit Verdot.

But Zinfandel is the core around which Morlet wines are built. There are two reds made from Zinfandel as well as a Pet Nat and a Rosé (70% Zin/30% Merlot).

There are also plans to release a Cabernet when production levels permit.

Wines are now made by the talented team at McHenry Hohnen and production is very small. (Most wines are less than 1,000 bottles and some are just a single barrel).

Reviewed

Morlet – Urban Professor – Chardonnay – 2021. Pretty peach and nectarine notes, hints of citrus, and gentle ripe pineapple notes. The palate is fine and quite restrained, with slate, minerals and zesty acidity running the length of the tongue. Gentle melon and almond notes add interest. The texturing oak adds to the package. Has good fruit weight and depth, but really needs three-five years to be at its best. 92+pts – $35

Morlet – Delicious – Rose – 2021. 70% Zinfandel 30% Merlot blend. The fruit here is the main focus. Bright and fresh, with berries and cherry aromas and flavours. There is excellent length on a slightly chewy finish, and more fruit weight than many. The drying finish is a bonus. Lives up to its name: Delicious. 91pts – $30.

Morlet – The 8th Deadly Zin – Zinfandel – 2015. Amazing fruit on the nose that is ripe and succulent. This is complemented by leather, minerals and tobacco notes. The palate is textured and slightly chewy, yet the tannins are approachable enough to let the fruit shine. With admirable restraint and only 14.4% alcohol, this is excellent current drinking and will go a treat with a rich ragu! 90pts – $35.

Morlet – Reserve – Zinfandel – 2014. Not surprisingly perhaps, this is more reserved than Deadly Zin, and all the better for it. Balanced, restrained, drying and elegant, this shows how Zinfandel can be turned into fine, savoury, luxurious age-worthy wine. A single barrel produced (American oak) 14.9% alc, Drink with a slow cooked shoulder of lamb. 93pts – $66

Grant Burge 2021 Premium Release

Barry Weinman: 8th November 2021

A change of ownership must be a very challenging time for a winery with a history as long as Grant Burge. The Burge family arrived in the Barossa in 1865 and have five generations of winemaking experience.

Global wine giant Accolade purchased Grant Burge in 2015 but through the change in ownership, two key constants remained.

The first was winemaker Craig Stansborough who joined Grant Burge in 1993 and was quickly promoted to senior winemaker in1997.

The second was continuing to source high quality old-vine fruit from their core vineyards including the Filsell and Corryton Park vineyards.

Based on the three wines reviewed, the result is that the wines are better than ever. What impressed me the most was how the wines’ personalities really started to open up after a couple of days on the tasting bench. The fact that they were at their best after four days suggests that extended cellaring will be rewarded.

The pricing seems fair given the quality on offer when compared to what else is out there and the wines are now sealed with a screwcap.

Reviewed

Grant Burge –Nebu – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2018. Wow, I like this a lot. Silky, supple, elegant and refined, this is an incredibly polished wine. The palate is very long, dense, beautifully textured and near seamless. There is concentration and power to the fruit, which is wrapped in a veneer of silky oak. With air, the fruit really opens up, becoming the star of the show. Ideally, give this 10 – 15 years in the cellar to show its best. 95pts – $100.

Grant Burge – Filsell – Shiraz – 2019. My pick of the range, from a quality/value perspective. Straight out of the bottle, this is quite impenetrable. Purple/black colour, brooding fruit on the nose and silky yet highly structured palate. A wine of real gravitas, reflecting the old-vine fruit that goes into this. But with air, this really blossomed. Rich, ripe, succulent Barossa shiraz at its best. Patience will be rewarded. 95pts – $48.

Grant Burge – The Holy Trinity – Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre – 2019. Whilst still powerful and intense, this was the most approachable of the three wines, thanks to the fragrant and vibrant Grenache berry fruit characters. Behind this sits savoury, almost earthy Shiraz and Mourvèdre which adds depth and power. The finish is all about the chocolatey fruit and whilst capable of aging, this is delicious now and would be great with spring lamb. 93pts – $48.

Singlefile Wines: Style meets Substance

Barry Weinman: 29^th October 2021

In my book, Singlefile has been one of the top ten wineries in Western Australia for several years now. Brilliant quality and excellent value have set them apart from most other producers.

With the latest releases though, Singlefile has turned things up a notch, with exceptional packaging for some note-worthy new wines.

The Rosé looks great in its fancy bottle, While the Small Batch Pinot sets a new benchmark for Australian wine. I love it!

The great news is that the wine quality has never been better, and the value is spot-on. Every wine reviewed is a winner.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2021. Profoundly beautiful fruit on the nose that is elegant and fine yet possessing great intensity. The finish is taut and steely, with the textural components more accessible than the fruit right now, aided by gentle phenolics and thrilling acidity that drives the finish. After being opened, the citrus fruit blossomed, suggesting that ageing will be rewarded. From the Blue Lake Vineyard in Mount Barker. 95pts -96pts – $35.

Singlefile – Fiano – 2021. With floral fruit that is bright and light, this is so delicious and somewhat irresistible! The palate is fragrant, supple and lithe, and the balance is a highlight. Has floral notes similar to Riesling, with the mouthfeel and texture closer to Pinot Gris. Brilliant on its own, or with a pumpkin risotto. 93pts – $29.

Singlefile – Fumé Blanc – Sauvignon Blanc – 2021. Viscous, textured, and powerful, this is a serious, age-worthy wine, that flies in the face of a New Zealand SB. The supple mouthfeel is a highlight, with the oak (20% new French) adding texture and richness rather than overt flavours. Subtle aromatics build in the glass and fine acidity carries the finish. Very much in the white Bordeaux style. 93pts – $35

Singlefile – Rosé – Sangiovese – 2021. This wine looks great with its vibrant colour and striking new packaging. And the wine quality is right up there too. Pretty, almost delicate berry notes on the nose, and the palate is very fine and savoury, with delicate aromatics and hints of strawberry and spice. Beautifully made, with a bone-dry finish and great acidity, this is serious enough to command respect. Spring in a glass! 92pts – $29.

Singlefile – Small Batch Project – Pinot Noir – 2019. There are very pretty cherry/berry fruit notes, complemented by attractive savoury notes that add greatly, courtesy of the quality oak. The palate is powerful and intense, with depth and structure to match the high-quality fruit. Suited to medium term ageing, yet this is supple enough to enjoy now, given the great mouthfeel. Took three days on the tasting bench to show its best. 96pts – $59.
(From a single Porongurup vineyard planted to clones 777, 114 and 115. Only one barrel produced. Brilliant packaging!)

Singlefile – Chilled Red (Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier) – 2021. Light, fragrant and supple, with excellent texture and gentle tannins (thanks to some carbonic maceration). This is very attractive and refreshing and would be great served chilled on a summer afternoon with antipasto on the side. 90pts – $29

Geoff Merrill 2021 Review

Barry Weinman: 20^th October 2021

Geoff Merrill Wines are synonymous with McLaren Vale.

The first thing that struck me when reviewing the Geoff Merrill wines was the extra bottle age on the reds. It is great to see quality wines on the market with 6-7 years under their belt.

This showed in the tasting, with these wines showing just a touch of evolution, which greatly improved their drinkability.

And the Rosé and Riesling were a lot of fun (though I am not quite sure about the goose on the label…)!

Reviewed

Geoff Merrill – Charley Rose – Rosé – 2021. Made from Grenache, this has pretty berry fruit that is savoury, drying and textured. Gentle grip complements the lingering fruit flavours. With minimal sweetness, this is fit for purpose and ready for spring! 88pts $25.

Geoff Merrill – Jacko’s – Shiraz – 2015. Attractive menthol/peppermint over ripe cherry aromas. This continues on the palate, with the souring acidity complementing the fruit well. Excellent length, the juicy plum-like fruit builds. Tannins get a bit grippy on the finish, suggesting that further time in bottle would be worthwhile. 27 months in large oak, 10 % new. 91pts – $30

Geoff Merrill – Bush Vine – Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre – 2014. More menthol, but here the vibrant Grenache really shines. There are hints of cherry and ripe red plum and no obvious oak to dull the fruit. The palate is bright, fresh and modern, the zesty acidity adding life and drive on the finish. $28 – 91pts.

Geoff Merrill – G & W – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. Lovely bright red berry fruit supported by savoury notes from the oak (10% new). A more generous style than we typically see in Margaret River. with fine tannins adding texture. Really well made, with decent length and acidity. Drink now – 8yrs. Juicy. 93pts – $30.

Juniper Estate Rebranding & Victory Point Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 5^th October 2021

Juniper Estate

Juniper Estate have commenced a rebranding of their range to allow for better segmentation in the market. The range includes:

• Crossing is where the entry level wines are found
• Canvas is for their non-traditional (for Margaret River) varieties
• Three Fields focuses on traditional Margaret River varietals and will have the greatest commercial availability
• Higher Planes highlights fruit from the Karridale vineyard
• Estate showcases the Wilyabrup vineyard
• Cornerstone is the super-premium range featuring both Wilyabrup and Karridale

There are some interesting wines in the Canvas range, but for me, the Three Fields is where the value really starts to shine.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Three Fields – Shiraz – 2019. Brilliant colour here. Starts off with savoury, earthy notes but there is a core of delicious ripe plum-like fruit at the heart of this wine. Excellent depth and really well made, with little in the way of new oak to get in the way of the expressive fruit. Fine graphite-like tannins add texture. Delicious drinking now with a bit of air or give it five years to flesh out. 92+pts – $28.

Juniper Estate – Three Fields – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Refined, elegant and polished, with precise ripe fruit that is very attractive. Excellent length of flavours and fine tannin/oak balance, with the sweet fruit really building in the mouth. Youthful and capable of aging but this is a delight to drink now. Fruit from the Wilyabrup and Metricup vineyards. 14 months in oak (30% new). 94pts – $35.

Victory Point

I wrote recently about the 2018 Victory Point reds. Superb quality at an affordable price. In this tasting, the panel also reviewed the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot was a pleasant surprise, given that Margaret River is not known for the variety, but it was the Chardonnay that really caught the attention of the panel.

A superb wine for the price.

Reviewed

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2018. Bright lemony hue. The nose is rich, creamy expensive smelling, with supple vanillin notes. The palate is precise and taut, with a near seamless palate transition. Very long, the fruit is shy initially, but peach-like fruit really builds on the finish. Slate and minerals add to what is a great drink. Combination of Mendoza and Burgundian clones; 277,96,95 & 76. Barrel fermentation and 10 months in oak – 42% new. 95pts – $55

Richard Hamilton Rebranded

Barry Weinman: 2^nd October 2021

To coincide with their 50th year in McLaren Vale Richard Hamilton has rebranded their range with striking new packaging. The first wines in the new packaging have been released under the estate range, with the other tiers to follow.

I reviewed the Shiraz and Cabernet, and both represent excellent drinking for the price, especially given the mature vineyards from which the fruit is sourced.

Reviewed

Richard Hamilton – Little Road – Shiraz – 2020. Great colour! Pretty plum and floral cherry fruit, supported by supple, savoury oak. Hints of liquorice and pepper add interest and complexity. The fruit is vibrant yet would benefit from a few years to shake of the cloak of tannins. 16 months in oak, 30% new. 92pts – $26

Richard Hamilton – Hut Block – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Pretty, sweet fruit that has impressive depth and density. The power on the palate is palpable, yet this is silky, polished and refined. Gentle chocolate and cedar notes from the oak adds to the finish. 18 months in oak, 20% new. 92pts – $26

Leeuwin Estate Update: September 2021

Barry Weinman: 27^th September 2021

A trip to Margaret River would hardly be complete without having lunch at Leeuwin Estate. The combination of great wines and superb food is irresistible.

Whilst there, I took the opportunity to try (and retry in some cases) some of the recent release wines and compare these to a few back vintages.

I am pleased to report that the wines have never been better. There are, of course, vintage variations that stamp their personality on individual wines, adding to the charm!

NB. These wines were not tasted blind, so points are only a guide.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Brut – 2019. Fresh, vibrant, and zesty, with the fruit taking on a crunchy Granny Smith apple character. The palate is creamy and nicely textured, with fine lemony acidity driving the finish. A very good aperitif style. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay component underwent barrel fermentation. Dosage a low 5g/l. $49.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Riesling – 2020. The purity of fruit is outstanding, with lovely lime juice aromas. The near-seamless palate structure is very impressive. Delicate and ethereal, history suggests that this will comfortably age for 10+ years. Riesling is the largest planting on estate, which is a testament to the popularity of this wine. 93-94pts $23.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Sauvignon Blanc– 2020. Aromatic tropical fruit, suggestive of gooseberry, lantana and passionfruit. The palate carries on the tropical theme, but this is complemented by a lovely creamy texture. Fine acidity carries the finish making for an excellent drink. 30% of the wine is fermented in oak with frequent lees steering. 93+pts – $31.

Leeuwin Estate – Prelude – Chardonnay – 2020. This is such an impressive wine. The peach and nectarine fruit has intrinsic depth and power. The textural components are a highlight as is the length of flavour. 40% new oak, no malolactic fermentation. 94pts – $38.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2018. So intense and yet so fine, the fruit is the star here. Delicate and refined, the palate is seamless, long, supple and textured. Full review available here. 97pts – $135.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017. Fresh, vibrant and pretty red berry fruit, but with subtle depth that sets this apart from the ordinary. So long, fine, and elegant, with a silky texture. Very serious yet amazingly, drinking brilliantly now. 50% new oak and includes 2% Malbec. 95pts – $79

Houghton 2019 Vintage Premium Reds

Barry Weinman: 23^rd September 2021

Superficially at least, there has been significant changes at Houghton in recent years. None more so than the sale of the original winery in the Swan Valley. But in reality, this was just a superficial measure, as the heart of Houghton had moved years ago to their winemaking facilities in Nannup.

The other note-worthy change was the departure of senior winemaker Ross Pamment in mid 2020. Whilst this had the potential to be more significant, Ross was succeeded by the very talented Courtney Treacher which is great news for fans of the Houghton style.

Courtney has been managing the Nannup facilities since 2013, and has been instrumental in crafting wines such as Jack Mann and Gladstones ever since.

Very safe hands indeed!

So to the release of the 2019 premium Houghton Cabernets. The Jack Mann is rightly considered one of Australia’s great Cabernets. Ironically, this wine comes from the Justin Vineyard in Frankland, rather than Margaret River, the spiritual home of Cabernet in Western Australia.

Also from Frankland, the C.W. Ferguson is another cracking wine, which in 2019, is the equal of Jack Mann, albeit in a slightly lighter, more perfumed style.

The trio is rounded out by the Gladstone from the Batley vineyard in Margaret River. This is a completely different beast and serves to highlight the stylistic difference between the regions. 2019 was a cooler year and this is reflected in savoury, herbal notes that complement the immensely dense fruit.

The wines spend approximately 16 months in high intensity French oak, of which 30%-40% is new.

Amazingly, over five days on the tasting bench, the fruit in these wines just got better and better, especially in the C.W. Ferguson and Gladstones.

Reviewed

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Gorgeous ripe redcurrant fruit that has hints of violets and blueberry. This smells expensive. The palate is silky, supple and moreish. There is great depth and density, but this is all about restrained power. The fruit slowly builds in the glass, and this took three days to really show its best. Very age-worthy. 95+pts – $175

Houghton – C.W. Ferguson – Cabernet/Malbec – 2019. What a delightful wine. The pretty blueberry fruit has great depth, supported by supple spice notes (cloves). The fruit on the palate is initially closed and retrained. With plenty of air however, the wonderfully vibrant fruit shines providing great drinkability, even at this early stage of its life. The (expensive) oak has been carefully managed to ensure that the fruit remains the focus. My pick of the range and likely to be excellent value. 96+pts – $78.

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is a very different style, with much greater fruit weight and density to the wines from Frankland. Not better nor worse, just different. The precise cassis-like fruit is perfectly ripe and quite beautiful., with great length of flavours. The texture is a highlight and the finish near seamless. The cooler year is reflected in supple earthy/herbal notes that complement the fruit very well. A textbook example of very high-quality cooler year Cabernet that is very age-worthy. 96pts – $100.

New Release Reds: 23^rd September 2021

There were several highlights in this tasting including:

The 2017 Hutton Vale Grenache/Mataro is a bit of a treat. Great fruit quality that has been massaged in the winery. Fragrant, ripe and supple. The wine spent 24 months in oak, of which 20% is new.

Howard Park’s Abercrombie is another cracking wine from the lauded 2018 vintage. An almost equal blend of Margaret River and Mount Barker fruit aged for 22 months in French oak (60% new).

Victory Point’s 2018 Cabernet is a great effort and the cheaper Mallee Root is a knock-out for value!

Reviewed

Hutton Vale Farm – Eden Valley – Grenache/Mataro – 2017. A complete wine. Fine and ripe, with elegant red berry fruit supported by a web of supple, savoury oak. The balance is exceptional. The ripe plum fruit really builds in the mouth, slowly transitioning to super-fine graphite-like tannins. Great now or cellar for 10 years. 94pts – $65.

Howard Park – Abercrombie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a bit of Jekyll and Hyde wine. The fruit is fragrant, elegant and refined on the nose, but the power really shows on the palate. Dense, intense, and impactful, this has great depth to the fruit and impressive length. Drink now with the best steak you can afford or keep for 20 years and be rewarded. Superb! 96pts – $150.

Lake Breeze – Arthur’s Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2018. Gorgeous fruit on the nose that is ripe, supple and plush. Carries through on the palate but here the fine tannins and savoury oak act as a blanket, suppressing the fruit for the time being. Give it air or ten-fifteen years in the cellar to see it at its best. 93+pts – $45.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a most impressive. Long, fine and supple, with real density to the velvety fruit. Textured, and with near seamless palate transition, this is both age-worthy and hard to resist now. 94+pts- $55.

Victory Point – Mallee Root – Cabernet/Malbec/Petit Verdot – 2018. Ripe blueberry fruit with hints of violets. Fine, supple and elegant, with subtle fruit and silky winemaking. A complete wine that makes me want to drink rather than taste. A bargain too. 93-94pts – $28.50.