Champagne: What to drink in Australia in Autumn 2022 Part 1: Pierre Gimonnet, Pol Roger & Duval-Leroy

Barry Weinman 3^rd April 2022

The title for this series of articles is very specific to a point in time for an important reason. Non-vintage Champagne is not a homogenous product and there are a number of factors that can influence how it tastes.

• The blend: The majority of the base wine in NV Champagnes typically comes from a single year, with reserve wines added to keep the style and quality consistent. But the characteristics of the base wine changes from year to year which affects the overall taste.

• How long the wine has been left on lees: For the bigger houses in particular, their NV will be disgorged in batches to meet market demand. More time on lees will subtly change the flavour profile.

• How long the wine has been sitting in Australia: Once a wine has been disgorged, the characteristics change over time. If a distributor has old stock, or a retailer has slow sales, then the wine will taste differently to a bottle that is fresh of the boat.

So, with the NV wines at least, what I am reviewing below is the wine that is currently available from the wholesaler in Australia today.

These wines were tasted as part of Tyson Stelzer’s fantastic Champagne tasting that is held each year around Australia.

Duval-Leroy

Duval Leroy is a historic Champagne house that was established in 1859 and is still family owned today. These wines were the value standout for the tasting, and it’s worth checking for special prices with your local independent bottle shop.

Given the value on offer, the Brut Reserve is currently our house Champagne here at the Weinman’s.

Duval-Leroy – Brut Reserve – NV. A richer, textured style with decent length and refreshing acidity. Whilst not the most complex wine in the tasting, this is a wine that brings pleasure and can put a smile on your face. Pinot dominant, with four years on lees and 8gms of residual.

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils

The Champagnes of Pierre Gimonnet are notable for being almost all Blanc de Blancs. Even their Rosé starts life as a Blanc de Blancs before the addition of a small amount of still red wine.

Whilst the NV wines have always proved excellent drinking, it was the vintage wines that really stood out this time. There is an excellent article on Wineanorack discussing the house in some detail.

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils – Cuvée Fleuron Brut – 1er Cru – Blanc De Blancs – 2015. A very fine wine where the balance is the key to the success. This is lively, racy and taut, yet still possessing excellent depth and richness. From the Côte de Blancs, 75% Grand Crus, 5gm/l dosage. ($110 from Winesquare)

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils -Special Club – Grand Terroirs de Chardonnay – 2014. As the name suggests, this is really quite special. A Champagne with great richness, depth, intensity and power, with a creamy mouth filling texture. Outstanding Champagne! This is made from old-vines material with the vines between 60 and 100 years old. 5gm/l dosage.

Pol Roger

A house that needs no introduction, and the wines are in top form. The current release of the Brut Reserve is excellent, with a lovely combination of richness, power and balance, but it was the 2013 vintage wine that stood out.

Pol Roger – Vintage Brut – 2013. The key here is the balance. This combines the finesse of the 2013 Blanc de Blancs with the richness of the NV. The result is a sublime wine that is brilliant value at around $125. 60% Pinot Noir 40% Chardonnay, 8gms/l dosage, disgorged December 2019.

Singlefile Cellar Door Experience

Barry Weinman: 16^th March 2022.

As someone who tastes a lot of wines each week, I rarely take the time to visit cellar doors when I am on holiday. And to be fair, my wife is not as interested in wine, so repeated winery visits have the potential to become a bit tedious.

So over a week in the Great Southern district, I only visited three wineries. And each experience was dramatically different.

The Low

I had the misfortune of visiting one (unnamed) winery in the middle of a 40-degree spell at the end of January, The temperature was at least 30 degrees inside the cellar door, which meant that the red wines were also at this temperature. As you can imagine, the wines did not look great.

To compound this, all wines had been opened between one and five days previously. It is understandable that they did not want to waste half full bottles, but even the whites looked flat and dull.

Rather than having 15 – 20 wines on tasting, perhaps narrowing it down would allow the wines to be served in optimal condition.

The High

I spent an hour with Guy Lyons at Forest Hill chatting about their wines and the direction that the winery is heading in. Given the sheer quality of the range, as well as the welcoming cellar door, I would highly recommend a visit if you are anywhere near Denmark.

I the restaurant (Pepper and Salt) is also highly recommended, but it was not open the day that I visited.

The Sublime

Perhaps the best cellar door experience that I have seen in WA is at Singlefile in Denmark. Rather than line up at a bar to taste the wines, guests are seated at tables overlooking the vineyards and water. It really is quite a spectacular setting.

The knowledgeable cellar door staff then proceed to conduct the tasting at your table, whilst you relax and enjoy the surrounds (and the fine wines). Given the sheer breadth of the range of wines made, they sensibly offer a curated selection from the range as part of the experience.

If you are a member of Singlefile’s wine club, then there are extra wines that are available to taste as part of the experience (From the premium ranges).

But for a truly unique experience, I highly recommend their “Sense of Place” tours. We found ourselves walking around the vineyards with a glass of Family Reserve Chardonnay whilst our guide was explaining the approach to viticulture, and how this impacts on the finished wine.

We were then shown to a private tasting room where we were able to try some of the best wines made on the property, whilst learning about the unique geology and geography that gives the different vineyards their character.

Yes, there is a cost to this tasting, but I can assure you that it is $59 very well spent. Given that my wife was talking about how good the experience (and the wine) was for days afterwards, I may even be able to schedule a couple more winery visits on our next getaway!

The Wines

As part of the experience, I was able to taste a few of the yet-to-be released wines from the premium range, and the wines were outstanding. My notes and points are only first impressions, as the wines were not tasted blind.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2021 is one of the most complete young Chardonnays that I can recall tasting. Great purity of fruit, silky textural oak (1/3 new) and subtle winemaking inputs combine in a stunning package. This starts in the stone fruit spectrum, with citrus notes driving the finish. Capable of cellaring, but irresistible now. 95+pts – $60

Singlefile – The Vivienne Chardonnay – 2019. Incredibly intense and powerful, with the winemaker’s inputs playing an important role (barrel ferment on solids, wild yeast, lees aging and partial malolactic fermentation). White peach and grapefruit give way to flinty minerality and curry leaf aromas. The sheer intensity of this wine will not be for everyone, but this is a wine that you need to try! 96pts – TBC

Singlefile – The Philip Adrian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a magical wine that combines fragrant fruit that is fine and supple, with tremendous depth and intensity. The Houghton-clone fruit was matured in oak (40% new) for thirteen months. 2018 was a great year in Frankland and this wine is absolutely brilliant. 97pts – TBC

Forest Hill: A Block of History

Review by Barry Weinman: 22^nd March 2022

When it comes to pioneering vineyards in the Southwest of Western Australia, people automatically think of the stalwarts of the Margaret River region. But plantings in Mt Barker actually precede this Margaret River (by a year or so).

In 1965, a five-acre experimental vineyard was planted on what is now the Forest Hill vineyard and the first wines were produced in 1972. The Cabernet was made at Houghton by the Legendary Jack Mann, whilst the Riesling was made at Sandalford by Jack’s son Dorham.

Fast forward to 1996, and the Lyons family purchased the vineyards from the Homes a Court family (Vasse Felix). Over the subsequent years, vineyards were rejuvenated, new vineyards planted and, in 2004, a winery and cellar door built in Denmark.

On a recent trip to the region, I took the opportunity to sit down with winemaker/general manager Guy Lyons to taste through the range and hear a little about the philosophy that he, and senior winemaker Liam Carmody are trying to capture in the wines.

My overarching impression of the wines was that of restraint and elegance. Beautifully expressive fruit, yet reserved and age worthy. The Cabernet, for example, has more in common with fine Bordeaux that it does with a traditional Australian red wine.

If I had to choose one word to describe these wines, it would be exceptional. Exceptional quality and exceptional value.

Reviewed

Forest Hill – Riesling – 2021. 2021 was a good year for Riesling, and the fruit was harvested over multiple picks, with the parcels kept separate to ensure typicity. Fragrant citrus blossom with gentle talc and mineral/spice. Gentle phenolics add texture, whilst the taut acidity adds a lemony tang. Excellent length to close. 94pts – $30.

Forest Hill – Riesling – Block 2 – 2021. From the 1975 plantings. 15% matured in old oak with 9 months on lees. This is different to the standard wine. Finer, more elegant, almost ethereal in nature. There is also greater length and intensity, yet the phenolics are a lot finer. The textural components are a highlight. Seamless, yet possessing amazing intensity, this could be enjoyed any time over the next 10 – 15 years. 300 cases produced. 96pts – $38.

Forest Hill – Riesling – Block 1 – 2021. From the original 1965 vineyard. This is a step up again in intensity compared to the Block 2, with a core of minerality running the length of the palate. Lime, lemon and steely acidity combine on the close. This is a powerhouse that needs years to reach its peak, yet is superb drinking now. A statement wine. Only 100 cases made. 97pts – TBC.

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – 2020. The fruit for this comes from the lower part of the vineyard, with a cross section of clone planted. Matured in 20% new oak and underwent wild yeast fermentation. This leads with citrus, with supple stone fruit in the background. There is a degree of richness which reflects the vintage. Balancing acidity and supple winemaking inputs make for a very enjoyable wine to drink now. 93pts – $32

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – Block 8 – 2018. The power here is palpable, but the fruit is cloaked with restraint. Citrus notes and lemony acid abound, the oak (25% new) and lees work have been absorbed by the fruit adding texture and depth, without over flavours. Very fine and elegant, with incredible intensity. The style here is getting ever finer, and cellaring is recommended. 95+pts – $50.

Forest Hill – Shiraz – 2020. This is all about the fragrant fruit. Cherry, plum, and even berry, with the gentlest of cedar. The palate is defined by its minerality and texture, and the chewy finish has a sprinkling of black pepper. A small proportion of the fruit underwent whole bunch fermentation, and the wine was matured in seasoned oak. 94pt – $32.

Forest Hill – Shiraz – Block 9 – 2020. Wow, the intensity has been turned up here. The minerality again is a feature, with the perfume more subdued, and gentle savoury notes (including chocolate and coffee.) build. Great length, but this needs 10+ years to reach its best. Block 9 was planted in 1985. 95pts- TBC

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. The dusty fruit (a good thing) is really taut and drying and is reminiscent of fine Bordeaux, but at a fraction of the price. This took two days to open up, but I was rewarded with bright fruit and supple textural components. 93-94pts – TBC.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 5 – 2019. The best parcels of fruit (Houghton clone) from a vineyard at the top of a ridge. The perfume is more notable here, with hints of berry and even a touch of violet. The palate is briary, textured and closed, but the potential is palpable. Give it 10 years and be rewarded. A classic Cabernet and proudly different to the wines coming from Margaret River. 95+pts – $65.

New releases Cabernet: February 2022

Barry Weinman: 3rd March 2022

Some of the big guns were out in this tasting and they did not disappoint.
Cullen’s 2020 Diana Madeline is a superb wine. The generosity of flavours are a highlight. Meanwhile at Moss Wood, the Ribbon Vale reds stole the show from their big brother. The Merlot was a real surprise package.

There has been a lot of talk about the exceptional 2018 vintage in Margaret River and one of the last wines to make it to the market is the Woodlands Margaret. Another excellent wine at a fair price.

And for a different expression of Cabernet, Thorn Clarke’s William Randell is a BFG.

Reviewed

Cullen – Diana Madeline – 2020. Wow. This is just subline. Fine, elegant, supple and restrained. Seamless and very long. Silky, with grace and presence. This is absolutely delicious now but would also benefit from 20 years cellaring. A masterpiece! 13 months in oak (50% new), 13% alc, from the Cullen Vineyard. 96+pts – $150.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Wow. This is quite beautiful. Exquisite fruit, supple winemaking and unobtrusive oak combine in a package that is refine, elegant, polished and deceptively easy to drink. The near seamless finish is a highlight. 95-96pts – $75

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Merlot – 2019. The panel were very surprised when the identity of this wine was revealed. Fine, elegant, taut., the oak near invisible. Reserved and reminiscent of Bordeaux in structure. The red and blue berry fruit is ripe, but in the cooler spectrum. Excellent length of flavours, but very much built for the long haul. Lingers for what seems like minutes. 95pts – $TBC.

Mr. Barval – Cabernet/Malbec – 2019. Excellent fruit on show here. Long, fine, textured and slightly chewy, this is restrained and taut. The length and persistence of flavours is a highlight. Unyielding, but has all the hallmarks of an excellent wine. Just give it a bit of time. 95pts – $TBC

Woodlands – Margaret – Cabernet Blend – 2018. This has excellent depth, density and fruit weight, yet remains supple and restrained. An elegant wine that is refined and long. The super-fine tannins slowly build, shutting down the fruit on the very close. Another cracking wine from the 2018 vintage and good value on the world stage. 95pts – $80.

Thorn-Clark – William Randell – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Boom! The fresh raspberry and blueberry fruit leaps out of the glass and smacks you in the head (in a good way). This is ripe and luscious yet does not lose its focus and remains varietally correct. A counterpoint to the cooler climate cabernets that we are used to from Margaret River. Would be great with dinner at the local Italian restaurant! 92pts – $70.

Mr. Barval – Vino Rosso – 2020. Vibrant red fruit with blueberry highlights. The berry flavours really build in the mouth. This is juicy and succulent, but also balanced and refreshing, with the fine tannins adding texture and depth. An excellent early-drinking wine that will suit both the novice and experienced wine drinker. 91pts – $33.

New Release Shiraz & Grenache: Feb 2022

Barry Weinman: 18^th February 2022

There were a number of highlights for this tasting starting with the soon to be released 2020 Farvie’s from Swinney. These wines are truly stunning.

The panel was also stunned by the quality of the two wines from Domaine Belle. If the rest of the range is on a par with these, then this will be one of the finds of the year (contact Lamont’s Cottesloe for pricing).

There are a couple of firsts for Vasse Felix with their 2020 Shiraz release.
– The release of a Filius Shiraz
– Relabelling the premium Shiraz as Syrah

The latter was done in an effort to reflect the changing style to a cooler, more savoury style. This is in part due to the fact that the majority (93%) of the fruit for this wine comes from the southern part of the region. Previously, the bulk of the fruit came from Wilyabrup.

Both wines are excellent!

Reviewed

Domaine Belle – Hermitage – 2017. Really deep smelling, the fruit is ripe, succulent, fleshy and morish. This is a smashing wine that offers life and personality. Ripe plum, liquorice, cherry, spice and even a waft of fruitcake. This has enough depth to satisfy the most serious wine collector yet is so drinkable now. 97pts – $TBC from Lamont’s Cottesloe.

Domaine Belle – Crozes-Hermitage – Cuvée Louis Belle – 2018. Wow. This is so modern and quite special. Ripe, textured fruit that is dense and powerful, yet it comes across quite restrained at present. There are liquorice and spice notes, but the star here is the fruit. Structured and very age-worthy, but a glass tonight with roast pork belly would be divine. 95pts – $80

Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2020. My notes were just a string of superlatives: Spice, pepper, texture, density, chewy, long and powerful. Near seamless, with graphite-like tannins adding texture. How so much depth and power can be packed into a wine this fine and elegant is beyond me. The best Grenache that I have ever tasted. 97pts – $160.

Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2020 – This is so silky and supple. Fine, elegant ripe fruit that has latent power and supple texture. The density of flavours is a highlight; a beautiful wine with exquisite length. The subtle intensity is stunning. So much going on. Cellar for 10+ years. 96pts – $160

Vasse Felix – Syrah – 2020. This is a smart wine. Ripe but restrained fruit with savoury highlights supported by subtle oak. The fruit quality is very high and shows cherry, plum, currant and a squid-ink-like intensity. The tannins slowly build on the finish and, when combined with the fine acidity, serve to keep the finish in check right now. A variety of wine making techniques has resulted in a wine that is youthfully delicious now, yet worthy of time in the cellar. 93pts – $37.

Vasse Felix – Filius – Shiraz – 2020. Attractive fragrant fruit that is fine, elegant and quite beautiful. The palate is supple and finely textured. Gravelly tannins add mouthfeel and depth on the finish, with gentle spice to close. 92pts – $29.

Raymond Usseglio & Fils – Chateauneuf-Du-Pape – 2019. This starts off quite earthy, but then there is a delicious lick of liquorice and spice, with menthol highlights. A serious wine that has intensity, excellent length and slightly chewy texture. But needs time to settle down. 93pts – $TBC from Lamont’s Cottesloe.

Thorn-Clark – Ron Thorn – Shiraz – 2017. This is big, ripe and powerful, without coming across as hot or overblown. Ripe plum, spice, tobacco, aniseed and menthol all flood the palate, with chewy, texturing tannins and oak adding structure and depth. That said, this was remarkably closed and took several days to open up. But by day three, this was drinking a treat. With a decade in the bottle (cork permitting), this should really start to live up to its potential. 93pts++ ($110)

Alkoomi – Frankland River – Shiraz – 2019. Now this is a bargain. Bright fruit that is savoury and supple, with gentle spice notes. Not overly dense or powerful, but a great drink at the price. 91pts – $15

The Bio Project – Tempranillo Blend – 2020. Restrained, fine, and elegant, yet quite closed. The modern winemaking has protected the fruit and contributed to a near seamless palate transition. A very smart wine. 91pts – $25.

Soul Growers Wines

Barry Weinman: 22^nd February 2022

If I had to use one word to describe the team at Soul Growers, it would be passionate. The enthusiasm, dedication and attention to detail is evident in everything that they do.

I had the pleasure of spending some time with Stuart Bourne recently and could not help but be caught up in the story. A couple of mates with a passion for wine and a dream of their own winery, growers with mature vineyards spread across the Barossa Valley and some marketing spin have resulted in wines that are full of personality.

Further up the range, things get very serious, but the soul of the operation is most evident in the Equilibrium GSM. Generous fruit and supple winemaking collide in a wine that is delicious and fun.

Reviewed

Soul Growers – Slow Grown – Shiraz – 2019. Super high quality ripe fruit that is opulent and seductive, without being over blown. The aromatic, chocolatey fruit is complemented by spicy vanillin oak that adds to the package and aids ageability. The palate is bright, intense and powerful, yet open and rounded enough to be seriously good drinking. Would be great with grilled meats now, but this is also worthy of medium-term aging. Very smart wine for those that like a big Barossa Shiraz. 95pts – $60

Soul Growers – Equilibrium – GSM – 2021. This is just so smashable. Plump, ripe and succulent, the Grenache contributing to a fruit forward, easy drinking style that ticks all the boxes. This is bright and juicy, with cherry, plum and cranberry to the fore. No need to wait. Just open and pour this deliciously fun wine. 93pts – $35.

Soul Growers – Provident – Shiraz – 2020. Yes, there are hints of oak here, but this is more about the focussed, pristine fruit that takes on cooler character in 2020. Cherry, mulberry and plum all express with spice and pepper in the background. The refreshing acidity provides excellent palate shape to the fruit. At this early stage, the wine is not overly complex, but a few years in the cellar will see this flesh out. 92pts – $35

Premium Western Australian Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 16 February 2022

Western Australian wine is a bargain on the world wine stage. With the great wines from France selling for upwards of $1000 per bottle, the likes of Cullen, Leeuwin and Vasse Felix are very good value by comparison.

The Cape Mentelle Chardonnay from 2018 is proof in point. Here is a lovely wine that is already four years old, is great drinking and is still available online for $55.

And look out for the soon to be released 2020 Heytesbury. A sensational wine that is made from Gingin clone fruit, underwent wild yeast fermentation and spent 10 months in French Barriques (62% New).

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2020. This is just sublime. Supple, subtle, refined and elegant, with near seamless palate transition. But what sets this apart is the way the fruit builds in the mouth over time. Ultimately, the acidity and the texturing oak make close the fruit on the finish, suggesting a year or two in the bottle will allow this to open even further. 96pts – $100.

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2018. The fruit here is so intense, yet the balance is a highlight. Grapefruit, textural oak, peach and nectarine all come to mind. The palate is seamless and has great length and persistence. The worked cashew/almond meal notes adding depth and texture. My preference for current drinking. 95pts – $55.

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2020. Fresher, finer and more polished, with the focus on the sublime fruit that has lovely pineapple/tropical hints. The finish is fresh and vibrant, with little in the way of winemaking artifact to distract from the purity of fruit. Great length and persistence of flavours. 95+pts – N/A

Gant & Co – Chardonnay – 2019. Fine, elegant, taut and long, with almond and nougat notes. The palate is defined by its texture, viscosity and density. Supple winemaking inputs result in gentle toast on the finish (and a touch of struck match). Very persistent and mouthcoating, with excellent length of flavours. Impressive. A blend of Gingin and Dijon 95. 94pts – $40.

Staniford – Great Southern Reserve – Chardonnay – 2018. This is clearly expensive. Worked lees and barrel ferment over ripe, peachy fruit. The struck match minerality is a feature. The palate is intense, powerful and textural, with the palate transition only interrupted by the tight acidity and gentle toast from the oak. Impressive, but needs a few years for the fruit to settle into the structure. High quality oak a feature. 94pts – TBC

Shepherd’s Hut: Value drinking for the summer months.

Barry Weinman: 8^th February 2022

Shepherd’s Hut wines started as a diversification opportunity for the Wishart family, during one of the many agricultural downturns that farmers have had to deal with. The first vines were planted in 1996 and, in 2020, management of the property and vineyards was handed on to Laura Wishart, Michael’s granddaughter.

Since then, Laura has almost single handedly managed the 18 hectares of vines, as well as looking after sales, marketing and distribution.

The majority of the fruit from the vineyard goes to other Great Southern producers, with a portion retained for the Shepherd’s Hut wines which are made by Rob Dilletti at Castle Rock.

The current release of Shepherd’s Hut wines are excellent value. The 2013 Shiraz for example, is a nine-year-old wine that is brilliant drinking and is currently available from the winery for just $22 (The full price is $30).

The pick of the current range is the 2021 Riesling, and if you get the opportunity, try the crunchy and refreshing SB. A delicious wine for the warmer months.

Given the value on offer, these wines are worth trying.

https://shepherdshutwines.com.au/shop-wine/

Reviewed

Shepherd’s Hut – Porongurup – Riesling – 2021. Silky, fresh, floral. This is everything that is good about Riesling in a refined, and elegant package. Great minerality and a steely backbone makes this age worthy, but personally I think this is already at its best. Lovely. Another cracking wine from this under-the-radar producer. 94pts – $22.

Shepherd’s Hut – Porongurup – Pinot Noir – 2020. Cherry and spice to the fore. This is not overly dense or complicated, but is delicious current drinking. Not frivolous, but very user friendly. The finish is defined by texturing tannins and souring cherry acidity. 91pts – $27.

Shepherd’s Hut – Shiraz – 2013. This banger of a wine is amazing value. The bottle age has rounded out the fruit on the palate, with supple texture, excellent balance and decent length. Not the most serious Shiraz on the market, but great drinking now and they are almost giving it away. 92pts – $22

Shepherd’s Hut – Shiraz – 2015. A fine, elegant and supple wine with medium fruit weight and excellent texture. This is great short-term drinking as the fruit is so approachable. 91pts – $25

Barry Weinman: 3^rd February 2022

Drinking wine during a hot Australian summer can be a challenging experience. The wines can heat up quickly, leaving the whites tasting flat and unexciting and the reds overblown, flabby and alcoholic.

There is no easy solution, and care needs to be taken to keep the wines at an appropriate temperature. Whites are fairly easy. Small amounts can be served cold from the fridge and allowed to warm up a little in the glass while drinking, with the bottle returned to the fridge to stay cool.

Reds are more challenging, as I prefer to drink my red wines at 18 – 20 degrees. A wine left on an outdoor table or kitchen bench may well be too warm to support an optimal drinking experience. So I have a few solutions that I turn to.

The simplest is to pop the red into the fridge for 30 minutes before serving small amounts and keep returning it to the fridge periodically. My preference however is to pop a decanter into the fridge for a few hours and then decant the wine (taken from the cellar at 18 degrees) prior to serving.

Again, small pours are helpful, and returning the decanter to the fridge may be required from time to time.

Then again, we could all just drink delicious sparkling Shiraz!

Sparkling Shiraz is a wine style that I tend to overlook when I am choosing a wine to drink. Memories of overly sweet commercial wine has embedded the notion that they are a difficult wine to match with food.

Fortunately, there are a number of serious sparkling Shiraz on the market that are dry enough to enjoy with food, yet still drink brilliantly on their own.

Below are a few of the panel’s picks from a recent sparkling Shiraz tasting that we held. The styles varied, but the quality was uniformly high. And the best part is that these wines are not particularly expensive given the care and attention they receive.

Happy drinking!

Reviewed

Faber – Noir de Noir – Shiraz – 2017. This is more serious and structured, with dense Shiraz fruit with real depth and power (liquorice, plum, cherry cola). The well-judged residual adds to the package. A complex, serious wine that just happens to be sparkling. 93pts – N/A.

Mitchell – Sparkling Peppertree – Shiraz – NV. Black olive is a defining feature here. Dense, powerful, impactful… Redolent of mint slice (chocolate), with excellent length. Despite the dosage, this feels quite dry, the inclusion of 8-year-old fortified Shiraz in the dosage adding depth. Most impressive and enjoyable, and a very distinctive wine. 93pts – $45.

Seppelt – Original Sparkling – Shiraz – NV. The aromatic fruit here is clearly cooler spectrum, with red berry fruit to the fore. The palate is pretty, fresh and vibrant, with well-judged dosage. Not the most complex wine in the tasting, but this is great drinking and good value to boot. 93pts – $25.

Sittella – Sparkling Shiraz – NV. The colour here is notably lighter. The key feature here is the fresh, bright fruit that is balanced by refreshing acidity and texturing tannins. Not the driest wine in the tasting, but well balanced and a most enjoyable drink. 90pts – $35.

St Hallett – Black – Shiraz – NV. Dark fruit in the cherry and plum spectrum. This is drying, savoury and delicious., with the medium weight fruit adding to the enjoyment. Good length, modest dosage and a touch of bottle age make for a great drink. 92pts – $50.

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume

Barry Weinman: 16th December 2021

It is hard to work out what is what when it comes to Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, and his eponymous brand.

According to the website, the Jessiaume family have been making wines for seven generations from their estate in Santanay. However according to the Domaine Jessiaume website, the estate was sold in 2006.

What is apparent is that, following its purchase by investors in 2012, Jean-Baptiste along with his father and uncle took over winemaking and management of Domaine Chanzy. Towards the end of the decade, the family appear to have left Chanzy to start Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume.

This is the first time that I have tried the wines and the outcomes are very impressive. Overall, the wines are clean, fresh and very well made in a modern style. There was also excellent consistency of quality across the range.

A Western Australian distributor has been lined up, so expect wines to be available sometime around Q2 2022. Prices are to be confirmed.

Reviewed: Whites

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Bouzeron – Aligote – 2020. Just a touch of caramel, with lovely mouthfeel and texture. The fruit is quite shy initially, with hints of citrus and tropical notes building. Very food friendly. The fruit (100% Aligote) is hand-picked and barrel fermented (10 – 15% new oak). 90pts

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Santanay – Le Forge –Chardonnay – 2020. Fresh, zesty and neutral, with a touch of nuttiness to the nectarine-like aromas. The fruit has a lighter weight on the palate but is clearly high quality. Gentle oak and minerality add texture. The length and persistence are notable. Very well made. 91pts.

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Mercurey – Bois De Lalier – Chardonnay – 2020. More volume of fruit compared to the Le Forge and very well made. Textural, silky and near seamless, with stone-fruit building in the glass. 91pts.

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Rully – 1er Cru – Marissou – Chardonnay – 2020. Pretty fruit, in a cooler style, is supported by exciting acidity. Grapefruit and lemony acid keep the wine fresh and lively, while the oak is texturing without adding overt characters. An elegant, finer style that would suit short-term aging. 92pts.

Reviewed: Reds

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Santenay – Clos Du Haut Village – Pinot Noir – 2019. This has dense fruit for a Pinot, but just lacks the structure to elevate it to the top level. But this is supple, rounded and great early drinking with the strawberry fruit supported by fresh acidity. 90pts

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Volnay – Pinot Noir – 2019. Clean, fresh and elegant, with pretty red berry fruit to the fore. The palate is lithe and supple, and whilst not overly complex, has delicious cherry and spice notes. 91pts

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Rully – 1er Cru – La Fosse – Pinot Noir – 2019. This has attractive fruit in the cherry/plum spectrum, supported by liquorice notes. However, the texture here is the key feature, with graphite-like tannins and minerality to the fore. Dense, structured, modern. 92pts

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Volnay – 1er Cru – Le Ronceret – Pinot Noir – 2019. There is more depth and power here, with fruit weight akin to new world Pinot. The silky ripe fruit has real density and gravitas. An impressive wine. 93pts.

Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume – Santenay – 1er Cru – Les Gravieres – Pinot Noir – 2019. I like this a lot. This is dense and textured, with great oak handling. Yet this retains a lightness and elegance that makes it irresistible. Souring cherry acidity on the close adds life and balance. 94+pts.