Barry Weinman: 15^th April 2019

Margaret River has a reputation for producing some of the greatest Cabernets in Australia, if not the world. So it came as no surprise to the panel that the 2016 Cape Mentelle Cabernet is a truly outstanding wine.

But it was the quality of the entry-level wines from Cape Mentelle and Vasse Felix that delighted the panel. They both make for great drinking now, but are also worthy of time in the cellar to allow the wine to evolve.

Also included in this review is the Cape Mentelle Zinfandel, a wine of great finesse and elegance, which helps to redefine what this variety is capable of in Australia.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 (18.8/20pts – $98). Wow, wow, wow, this has it all. Bright, fresh floral fruit and savoury notes from the oak leads into a silky finish framed by fine tannins. A joy to drink now, but sure to age well for a decade or more. Gets serious on the close, with density of fruit, graphite and tar-like notes.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $31). Given that this wine is the entry level Cabernet from Cape Mentelle, the quality is nothing short of outstanding. The dense, ripe fruit is a highlight. This is a serious wine, with chewy, structured fruit and savoury, texturing oak and tannins. Remains supple and lithe despite the power, with blueberry fruit building with air. Great now, but also age-worthy.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon (Gold Capsule) – 2016. (18.5+/20pts – $47). Fragrant and pretty, with bright red fruits and gentle cedary oak, but the depth is a step up from the Filius.  Very long, this builds real depth in the mouth. Near seamless, though the acidity does build on the finish. Brilliant now, but needs 10+ years to really hit its peak. This includes 11% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak (44% New).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2016. (18.2/20pts – $28). Fresh and supple red berry fruit, with hints of mint on the nose. The palate is fine and savoury, with supple tannins and acid combining on a silky finish. Fresh and approachable, this is such an easy drink now, but has enough depth and Bordeaux-like structure to allow for short to medium-term cellaring. Excellent. Aged for 12 months in French oak, this includes 14% Malbec.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2016 (18.5/20pts- $58). This is very impressive. Real depth and power to the fruit, with red berry, cherry, tobacco and spice. The palate is poised and balanced, with a delicious finish. The texturing tannins and medium toast oak adding grip, but also balance. Very impressive , this has a lot of similarities with a high-quality Cabernet.

Barry Weinman: 24^th March 2019

This week saw the panel try a couple of really smart wines from Singlefile under the Run Free label. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are very worthy wines at around $25 per bottle.

The surprise for me though was the Organic Rose from Angove. A delicious, food friendly wine at a sensible price.

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Semillon – 2018 (18/20pts). Almost green tinged, this is very grassy and herbaceous, with lanolin notes. The palate is fine, though very zesty, with acidity that, whilst intense, magically allows the creamy, textured fruit to shine. Would be brilliant now with cured fish or super fresh sashimi, but will also age well.

Singlefile – Sauvignon Blanc – Run Free – 2018 (17.5/20 pts – $25). Fresh and vibrant, with grassy fruit over lantana and tropical notes. Quite intense, with decent texture, this is a smart wine indeed. The textural components on the finish are a highlight and reflect a portion of barrel- fermented fruit.

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $24). Quite a complex nose, with and hints of fresh tropical fruit and creamy, barrel- ferment aromas. The fruit really shines on the long palate, complemented by a creamy texture and supple finish. A quality wine that would make an excellent alternative to Chardonnay with a mushroom risotto.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Run Free – 2017 (17.9/20pts – $25). This has a little wow factor. Creamy, silky fruit and supple oak meld into a seamless package. The intensity and fruit weight are note-worthy at this price point. There are hints of pineapple and tropical fruit, but it is the melon notes that shine through. Fresh acidity ensures a lively finish.

Brash – Chardonnay – 2016 (18/20pts). With high quality fruit, creamy, textured winemaking inputs, and subtle minerality, this reminds me a little of the Pierro Chardonnay. A richer style.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2017 (17.7/20pts – $28). Full of nervous energy. Taut yet there is impressive power to the fruit. Whilst this will be very enjoyable with food now, it will be much better with a couple of years in the cellar.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Organic – 2018 (17/20pts – $17). Quite creamy and textured with a nutty, chewy finish. Again, the textural components are more important than the fruit, but there are some fresh stonefruit notes on the mid-palate. Slightly viscous finish adds interest to this food friendly wine. Well made, if uncomplicated.

Angove – Rose – Organic – 2018 (17.3/20pts – $17). Fresh strawberry and plum notes. This is very attractive, with just the right amount of grip and texture to make the finish complete and refreshing. This feels relatively dry adding to the appeal. The texture and acid would make this a good choice with some nibbles on a sunny afternoon.

Barry Weinman: 27^th February 2019

In a line-up of fine wines, three really impressed the panel. Each wine took a different approach in expressing its personality, but in each case, the results were outstanding.

Over time, their personalities will gradually express themselves allowing the patient to determine the final pecking order, but from a value perspective the Leeuwin Estate is the pick.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 (18.6/20pts). Red currant and bright blueberry fruit, with floral highlights reminiscent of violets. Long and supple, this is a charming wine now, but there is density to the fruit that would benefit from 10 years+ in the cellar. Pre-release sample

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2017 (18.7/20pts). Intense red berry fruit over subtle mint notes. Quality is stamped all over a palate which is long, refined, supple and elegant. Will build depth with time in the glass or a decade in the cellar. A sublime wine of great charm.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18.7/20pts). Intense, with laser-like focus, the powerful fruit has been paired to fine oak and winemaking. Very long, with taut acidity and fine, if prominent tannins. Needs a decade or two in the cellar, or an hour or two in a decanter. Due for April Release.

Barry Weinman: 4^th February 2019

Evans & Tate has had a chequered history. Established by the Evans and Tate families in 1974, the original Redbrook vineyard was planted in 1975. In 1983 the partnership broke up, with the Tate family taking control of the winery.

The winery then underwent a period of sustained growth, culminating in a listing on the Australian Stock Exchange in 1999.

After apparent initial outperformance in 2005, things started to unravel, with mounting debt and unsold inventory (an interesting review of this was published in the Financial Review at the time). This culminated with the appointment of receivers and the subsequent sale of the winery to McWilliams Wines in 2007.

A new chapter for Evans & Tate began in October 2017, when the winery was purchased by the Fogarty Wine Group, who also owns wineries such as Mill Brook, Lakes Folly and Deep Woods.

Through many of the changes, one constant was the presence of Matt Byrne as chief winemaker. Matt started in 2001 and has consistently produced quality wines, despite the ownership changes, with the current wines in the premium range being amongst the best the winery has produced.

The staff are really enjoying the transition to Fogarty Wine Group and, if anything, the wines are only likely to get better.

A winery to watch!

Reviewed

Evans & Tate – Chardonnay – Breathing Space – 2017. ($16.15 ex cellar door). Taut and fine, this is made in the modern style, with gentle wine-making inputs and subdued fruit. With air, this wine really shines, showing fine fruit framed by the subtle oak and barrel ferment characters. The texture and acidity on the close are a highlight. Excellent value.

Evans & Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – Estate – 2017 ($36). Fine and taut, with attractive stone fruit aromas leading to hints of grapefruit and pineapple. The palate is a treat, with the supple fruit absorbing the oak and lees work easily, rendering the palate near seamless.  The finish is lithe and fresh. Delicious drinking now – 5 years. (Spends 7 – 10 months in 100% new oak, barrel ferment, on oak, wild yeast ferment).

Evans & Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – Reserve – 2015 (Pre-release sample). Lovely nose that is at once complex and complete. The palate is a tour de force, with powerful fruit in the grapefruit and melon spectrum, complex flinty/mineral lees characters and creamy texturing oak. The acidity is a highlight on the finish, conferring great drive to the palate. Slightly chewy to close, this will be a treat over the next 5 – 7 years.

Evans & Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – Reserve – 2014 ($65). Honeysuckle, melon and zesty grapefruit notes. The palate is taut and reserved, more so than the 2015. Lanolin, minerals, driving acidity. A taut, shy wine right now, this is worthy of spending years in the cellar to let the fruit express.

Evans & Tate – Shiraz – Redbrook – Estate – 2016. An explosion of super sweet fruit in the plum and red berry spectrum, with spice notes building in the glass. The palate is flooded by white pepper and spice, with the structural components keeping the fruit in check. A very impressive wine that, whilst delicious now, will be much better in 10 years’ time (fruit cold soaked with a proportion of whole-bunch).

Evans & Tate – Shiraz – Redbrook – Reserve – 2013. More restrained and reticent than the Estate. The palate is sophisticated and complete, with hints of mint, vanilla and supple spice. Only 20% new oak, but this makes an impact in a positive way. A textural treat that is sure to age well.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Redbrook – Estate – 2016. Again, lovely fruit on show here. Ripe and polished with fine, texturing oak, supple tannins and fresh acidity. Also shows a touch of eucalypt and pepper on the finish. The finish gets a little grippy to close, which will soften with time in the cellar. Will be great with a juicy steak now.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Broadway – 2017. Supple, medium bodied, savoury. Fruit is the focus here, with little in the way of oak. An approachable food-friendly style with eucalypt highlights and fresh acidity that cleanses the palate.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Broadway – 2016. Similar in style to the 2017, but with a little more richness and depth to the fruit. The balance is the key here. Again, a very food- friendly style, but also one that will do well with short-term cellaring.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – Reserve – 2014. Wow, the step up in intensity and power is palpable in this wine. It is crammed full of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, with firm tannins and driving acidity. Textural, chewy and complex, with spice from the oak and gentle herbal, eucalypt notes. A wine of presence and power.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – Reserve – 2013.  Inky, intense, powerful and brooding, with chewy tannins. Tight, structured, very long, with the oak barely noticeable. Needs a decade to open and will continue to improve for many more years, yet you can already see the quality of the fruit open up with air.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Evans & Tate – 2014. Tangibly different from the Reserve. Supple, fine, silky, fresh, lithe and restrained, yet this manages to remain approachable. The integrated tannins help confer a seamless finish. With lots of air, the fruit characters start to shine. This is a superb wine that is a delight to drink, but also sure to age well.

Brendan Jansen: 27^th January 2019

Wine quality is difficult to define, but is often spoken about in terms of the degree of complexity of wine bouquet and flavours, the length and persistence of these flavours on the palate, the intensity of aromas and taste, and the overall balance of the core elements of the wine. These core elements, depending upon the style of wine, variably comprise alcohol, acidity, fruit flavours, tannins and sweetness. This notion of balance is also key to the concept of ageability, or the age-worthiness of a wine, though this multiplex issue is also linked to other aspects of quality mentioned here. In addition, we might infer a wine’s quality by the quality of oak we perceive in the wine, acknowledging the cost associated with the use of high quality barrels (though aforementioned balance is also salient). The development of a wine as it sits before us in the glass, when it evolves to emanate varied primary, secondary and even tertiary aromas, also adds to our enjoyment and appreciation of a wine.

The notion of the “typicity” of a wine is often viewed as one of the indicators of a wine’s quality. By this is meant the degree to which a wine is representative, “classic”, distinguishing, prototypical, even archetypal, of a particular wine. Though sometimes referred to a variety, the term more fittingly describes, I believe, the “whole package” – of variety, style, winemaking, origin – dare I say, terroir. We speak, therefore, of “typical” Chablis, as having flavours of oyster shell and shale, and a mineral acidity matched by pristine citrus fruit. We might speak of a wine as being “quintessential” Meursault, and point to why it may differ, for example, from a Puligny Montrachet of comparable quality and vintage.

Yet these notions probably best apply to the so-called “classic” regions. Typicity is a term we could safely ascribe to wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Mosel, Rioja – I could go on. But what about New World winegrowing regions?

Is the task of a New World winemaker crafting, shall we say, a Chardonnay, to make it in a style that emulates the best white Burgundies? Why not Chablis, for that matter? Or is the task of the winemaker to put their stamp on a wine, so that it is the most honest and faithful example of the fruit of the region?

Of course, even if the latter is true, winemakers might vary in their view of how best to achieve the aim of showcasing a region’s fruit… WA’s own Millbrook Viognier has exquisite varietal faithfulness, but is unlike any other Viognier in the world. Brazenly un-Condrieu-like yet superbly representative of terroir. Should it be regarded as a “typical” West Australian incarnation of the variety?

These questions are becoming more difficult as winemakers around the globe adopt new and varied techniques – New World winemakers can make wines in an “Old World” style. Old World winemakers, assisted in part by global warming, can make wines in a “New World” style.

So where does the concept of typicity come into play? We speak of “modern” and “traditional” Rioja; “modern” and “traditional” Barolo; as though both incarnations have an innate “typicity”. Yet winemakers in modern and traditional camps can be as varied in the techniques employed within as without of these categories. Often this “modern” and “traditional” distinction boils down to the use (or not) of new oak and/or protective handling.

Even in “classic” regions, such as Burgundy, winemaking techniques vary immensely between producers. Do we assess the notion of typicity by the final product, the grand Gestalt of all the wine offers?

The perspective of history is also important. In the mid 1800s, after Sir James Busby had brought the first vines to Australia, Barolo and Barbaresco were still sweet wines. Amarone, as a style, in terms of the very long history of wine, is a relative newcomer on the scene, yet has qualities that are now said to be “typical”…

And what of innovators within the “classic” regions? A winemaker in the Mosel who wishes, let us say, to ferment Riesling to dryness, in new French oak barrels? Or the Margaret River producer who feels Cabernet Sauvignon from the region is best expressed through the employ of amphorae?

At some point, innovation can become accepted practice, and even orthodoxy. Though clearly not always…..

A cautionary word – we as humans, seek novelty as much as familiarity. In the chase for novelty, those other aspects of quality I listed at the start of this article should not be forgotten. Just because something is “different” or “trendy” does not make it “good”. There are clearly reasons winemaking in Burgundy has evolved to where it is now. So perhaps thoughtful innovation is the key, with dangers lurking on both sides – of staying stuck in out-dated practices, and of changing for change sake.

And who decides what is a quality wine anyway? Perhaps that is a subject best left to another musing.

Barry Weinman: 19^th January 2019

Established in 1973 by David and Heather Watson, Woodlands is one of the earliest vineyards in the Margaret River region. The original Woodlands vineyard has a total of 10 hectares under vine, many of which are now approaching 40 years of age.

In 2007, the family bought the 50 hectare Woodlands Brook property which has a total of 17 hectares of vineyards.

Woodlands has gone through some directional changes over the years. Initially, wines were made by David, but the focus shifted away from winemaking in the early 1990s, to supplying grapes to other producers in the region. During this time, a number of great Australian wines were made from this fruit, including some vintages of the Thomas Hardy, as well as contributing to the early Gladstones from Houghton.

Production of wines resumed at the end of the decade, with Stuart Watson taking over the winemaking in 2002. Stuart is clearly a talented winemaker, as the Cabernets (and lately Chardonnays) have been amongst the region’s finest for a number of years now.

One impact of the break in production at Woodlands is that the winery has not had the same consumer recognition as the likes of Moss Wood and Cullen. This is clearly a bug-bear for Stuart, but is a bonus for wine-lovers, as both the Woodlands Valley and Woodlands Brook ranges offer excellent value for money, as does the entry level Watson Family range.

At the top end of the Cabernet range, the 2016 Margaret and 2016 Clementine-Eloise (due for release mid-year) are amongst the best yet produced at the winery (although Stuart suggests the 2018 may be even better).

Reviewed

Watson Family – Chardonnay – 2016. ($20). Nectarine and white peach stonefruit characters combine with flint and minerality, giving excellent length and mouthfeel. Creamy, textured and supple, this is a wine of substance. Made from Wilyabrub fruit that is primarily Clone 5 (a variant of Gin Gin clone), the wine was barrel-fermented and spent 6 months on lees. A complete wine that would be great with grilled chicken.

Woodlands – Chardonnay – Wilyabrub Valley – 2017 ($28). Richer and more textured, with more peach notes than the Watson Family, along with greater oak impact. The mouth-feel on the finish is a highlight, with the creamy fruit building density and carrying right to the close. Gin Gin clone, barrel fermented, matured in 30% oak (1/3 new).

Woodlands – Chardonnay – (Woodlands Brook Vineyard) 2017 ($39). Wow, a wine of great presence. The fruit here is a highlight with ripe peach, creamy cashew nut, a silky mouthfeel and excellent fruit intensity. From the Woodlands Brook vineyard, and excellent value.

Woodlands – Chardonnay – Chloe – 2017 ($$110). Complex white peach aromas over supple winemaking inputs. The palate is mouth-filling, supple and seamless, with tremendous length and presence in the mouth. The fine acidity, in combination with the oak and barrel/lees work adds depth and texture, without adding overt flavour. A powerful, finely balanced wine made from very low yielding vines.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Wilyabrub Valley – 2016 ($28). Sweet ripe fruit is the focus here. Fresh, lively and textured. Excellent drinking or short-term cellaring.

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/ Merlot – Wilyabrub Valley – 2017 ($25). Excellent fruit characters. Bright, vibrant and textured, with minerality and chewy, fine tannins. An interesting alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon, and a great food wine, as the texture and acid will accompany richer dishes very well.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Wilyabrub Valley – 2017 ($28). Tighter, more restrained than the 2016. The density of fruit is a feature. Fine tannins and minerality adds texture, and there is very good length on the finish. Only medium bodied, this is a savoury, food- friendly wine that will do well with 5 years in the cellar.

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot/Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon – Emily – 2017 ($39). A structured, age-worthy wine, with excellent length.  This is a tighter and leaner style, with menthol, a touch of eucalypt and souring acidity adding drive on the finish. Excellent length to close, but this wine needs food or time in the cellar to show its best. Produced from a single plot on the Woodlands Brook vineyard from younger vines. 40% new oak hogs head and more skins contact.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Clementine – 2016 ($39). The fruit ripeness on the nose is very attractive. The palate is supple and delicious, with texturing minerality and greater mid-palate density and power than the Emily. Also from the Woodlands Brook Vineyard, this age-worthy wine had 40% new oak barriques.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Margaret – 2016 ($70). From older vines on the original Woodlands vineyard, the Margaret has pristine, bright fruit. Produced from a warmer, riper part of the vineyard, the palate is supple, textured and silky, with deliciously sweet fruit. A delightful wine now to 10 years.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Clementine Eloise – 2016 ($160. Pre-order via the winery). A superb wine that whilst elegant and oh so fine, has great power and presence. Supple and textured, with very fine tannins, yet this wine is elegant to its core. Needs years to show its best, but a treat now.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Russel – 2015 ($150). Matured for 19 months in new French oak. Any number of adjectives could be used to describe this intense, powerful wine. Silky, supple, textured, powerful, long, seamless. ; A superb wine.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Matthew – 2014 ($160 ex cellar door). A sublime wine! This has everything that you could want in a Cabernet, and then some. Power, grace and elegance. A brilliant wine. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Woodlands – Cabernet Merlot – Heather Jean – 2010 (N/A). The power here is palpable. At 8 years of age, this is still a baby. Textured, chewy, long, fine, needs years. A superb wine with a tremendous future.