Whilst Fine Wine Club is not about making money (it actually
costs me money to run), there are some great perks to the job, such as being
able to taste dozens of very high-quality wines in a week.
There are some varieties that are just that little bit more
special to taste than others, and Cabernet Sauvignon, either alone or blended is
one of those. Part of the attraction is that Australia (and Western Australia
in particular) makes Cabernet-based wines that are the equal of any in the
world when assessed for quality as well as value, so the quality of our
tastings can be quite high.
This week was a good one, having reviewed over 40 of
Australia’s best Cabernets, including the current Penfolds big wines. And while
it is easy to write reviews about Tom Cullity, Vanya etc, it was the quality of
the second tier Cabernets from Howard Park (Leston) and Singlefile’s (Single
Vineyard) that gave me the most enjoyment.
Whilst not quite as dense and powerful as their big
brothers, these wines offer that rare combination of being a great drink now,
as well as being capable of being cellared for at least a decade or two. But do
give them an hour in a decanter (or double decant) to let the fruit shine if
you are drinking them young.
Reviewed
Singlefile –
Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $25). Fresher and more approachable,
with supple red currant fruit supported by just a lick of savoury oak and
refreshing acidity. Great drinking now – 5 years with grilled meats.
Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – Single Vineyard – 2017 (18.6/20pts – $39). I like this a lot! Excellent quality fruit in the mulberry spectrum has been skillfully matched to subtle, savoury oak. Whilst lithe and approachable, there are plenty of fine tannins, supple oak and balancing acidity to keep this relatively restrained at first, suggesting the ability for extended aging (this was brilliant drinking after two days on the tasting bench). At $39, this is surely a bargain.
Howard Park – Cabernet
Sauvignon – Leston – 2016 (18.5/20pts
– $48). This was actually quite muted to start but really opened up with air. The
palate has fresh berry fruit, silky tannins and savoury oak adding depth but
not overt flavours. The balance that is a highlight, with this wine having the
rare ability to drink just as well now as it will in 10-15 years. Super!
Every year, in London, Sydney and San Francisco, the
Institute of masters of Wine hosts Bordeaux tastings. The biggest of these are
in London, but a very significant number of producers was on show in Sydney
this last weekend.
The format is similar in most years – with wines laid out
according to appellation, with the Left bank and Right bank reds and Botrytised
whites represented. As always, the few select “First Growths” represented – on
a table all of their own, are a sought after highlight.
The vintage was an interesting one, with most critics
agreeing it is the best since the 2009/2010 stellar vintage duo. Vintages in
Bordeaux have been disappointing to an extent since those two vintages. While
there is hype about the 2015 vintage, the 2014s did not disappoint.
I arrived early and saw the wines when they were opened.
Along with Rob Geddes MW and Neil Hadley MW, we checked the wines, giving us
the opportunity to assess them in broad strokes as well.
As a side note, only four bottles were faulty in some way,
out of the two samples each of the 60 wines sent by the Institute. The vagaries
of cork….
My general impressions aligned with comments of others about
the vintage – generally Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon based wines looked better
than Right bank wines, with Margaux, Pauillac and St Julien particularly
notable. Also, the “usual suspects” shone, as did a few other aspirational
producers – see below. There were some in the aspirational camp who had perhaps
tried a little too hard – so that oak tended to dominate the fruit.
Overall, I thought the vintage was reminiscent of 2008, also
“saved” by some late, fine weather, but would perhaps appeal more to classical
palates – the wines were generally reserved, tight and structured, and though
fruit was present in the background, some years will need to pass for the
tannins to yield.
In less-than-perfect years, it is my view that “terroir” shows through more clearly.
Below is a list of my picks:
Pinot Noir remains the holy grail for many wine drinkers. At
its best, the grape is capable of producing wines of extraordinary beauty and complexity.
All too often, however, events in the vineyard (and winery) conspire to make
less than exciting wines.
In this tasting, for example, of the 16 wines reviewed only
two made it to this review. Fortunately, the two that made it are both cracking
wines. Different in style to each other, but both delicious examples of
Australian Pinot Noir.
Reviewed
Pooley – Pinot
Noir – 2017 (18/20pts – $45). Perfumed and lifted fruit on the nose leads onto
a palate that has sweet cherry and berry fruit, with just a hint of fresh plum
and spice. This is quite rich and opulent, in a most attractive way. On the
finish, the fruit flavours linger and are framed by fine acidity and tannins.
Great drinking now with food. From
Tasmania
Mac Forbes –
Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2018
(18/20pts – $33). Whilst the single vineyard wines from Mac Forbes tend to
steal the limelight, it was the entry-level Yarra Valley Pinot Noir that got
the panel the most excited, due to the value that it offers. Initially a little
shy, but there is really good fruit on show. Builds depth with air, the fruit becoming
very attractive and fragrant. The palate is a little lean and sinewy to start,
but again hits its straps with air. Good value.
There has been much written about Australian Chardonnays
over the years, documenting the changing styles and fashions. In the 1990s the
trend was for big, ripe, buttery Chardonnays, with plenty of oak. This evolved
over the 2000s, with the fruit richness and oak flavours gradually being wound
back.
Around 2010, the pendulum moved to the other end of the
spectrum. Led by key wine critics and winemakers (particularly in Victoria),
the trend was for high acid, early-picked examples, where the fruit was dialled
right back. These wines needed years to show their best and were not always the
most approachable while they were still young.
Throughout this time, Leeuwin Estate maintained a steady
style, producing fine, elegant wines that were capable of extended aging, but
were also great drinking early on. In any given year, the Art Series Chardonnay
is amongst the country’s finest. Given that it has been at the highest level
for almost 40 years makes this one of Australia’s greatest wines of any
variety.
Besides the wines, there was another story that unfolded
during this tasting: the impact of the closure used on the condition of the wine.
There was a marked difference in the freshness of the wines, with those under
screw cap (2003 onwards) far fresher and more consistent than the earlier wines
(of which more than one bottle had to be opened on the night to find a good
example for the tasting).
There were a number of highlights on the night; the 1990,
for example, demonstrated just how well these wines can age (cork permitting).
In terms of sheer quality, there were no bad wines at all,
but a few of the vintages really stood out. The 2000 was great drinking and the
2003 remarkably fresh and youthful. The truly great wines on the night came
from 2005, 2007, 2010, 2014 and 2016.
Reviewed
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay
– Art Series – 1990. Honeyed and
rich, yet still with life and balance. The palate is rich, rounded and textured,
with excellent length of flavours. In remarkable condition and great drinking.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2000. Fresh
and vibrant, with peach-like fruit and gentle honeyed notes. The acidity is a
highlight. Almost Chablis in character, with minerality a feature. The palest
colour of the wines under cork, this was considered to be a very good bottle.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2001. What
a shame. Ever so slightly tainted and no back-up available on the night (previous
bottles have been excellent).
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2002. Under
cork, this had a golden colour and was very developed. Enjoyable drinking, but
sure to be better bottles out there.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2003. A
notable change in colour and very fresh in comparison. Here, the honey
characters have been replaced by more toasty notes. The acid is muted, but
there is enough freshness to make this great drinking. Lingering toffee finish
a highlight. No rush to drink these.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2004. Wow,
this is a step up in freshness and concentration. Delightful peachy fruit,
subtle toast and balancing acidity. Long and complex, with excellent mouth-feel,
this is vibrant and delicious. Opens with air, developing richness of fruit and
great length and balance. Super wine!
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005. Lighter
colour, and even fresher, the ripe fruit here is absolutely superb. The palate
is fine, elegant, and balanced, with great acid structure and length. Restrained
and youthful, this has a decade ahead of it, but why wait? A vinous highlight.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006. A
touch more colour compared to the ‘05 and ‘07, this has more toast, but less
fruit. That said, it still has good acidity. Generosity of flavours makes up
for the longevity, but probably best to drink this vintage sooner than later.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2007. Wow.
This is spectacular. Delicate, refined and supple, yet this has power to boot. There
is superb fruit, balance and mouth-feel. Restrained, but all components are in
harmony and there is great length of flavours. An ethereal wine that has a
brilliant future.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008.
Amazingly, this tastes like it was released just yesterday. Taut and fresh,
with high acidity. With air, this opens and shows a touch of lime notes. Easy
to be overlooked next to the 2007, but a lovely wine that has real potential.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009.
Unfortunately, this wine could not be found on the night.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2010. What
a beautiful wine. Fine, elegant, refined and supple, yet the balance is the
best of any wine to date, making this also the best drinking. With finer
acidity and brilliant fruit, this will be even better in 10 years. One of my
wines of the night.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2011. A
little more restrained than the 2010, this needs a few years to really open up.
Again, the balance is brilliant, with fine grapefruit-like acidity and supple
peach and nectarine fruit. Youthful vitality and richness, with excellent fruit
weight but give it time.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2012. Finesse
and poise are the features of this sublime wine. Seamless and restrained, with a
spine-tingling presence. Almost ethereal, there is a nervous tension to the
wine. A little polarising, but a personal favourite.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2013. Melon
and grapefruit to the fore. This is textured, chewy and full of potential, yet
remarkably good drinking already. The finish is near seamless and the acid
balance is a highlight. With air, this starts to develop peachy fruit. Another
great wine.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2014. This
is quite firm and taut. Having said that, the balance is exemplary, with the
acid cutting through the fruit richness. Needs years to show its best, but with
air, the fruit richness builds and you get a glimpse of just how good this wine
is. Will age with grace.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2015. Spectacular,
fine and restrained, yet with depth and power. This is youthful, and needs
years to hit its peak, but there is no doubting the sheer quality of the fruit
underlying this wine. A wine for the long haul.
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2016. I have written recently about just how good this is, but on the night: More perfumed, with lovely floral highlights. The palate is shy and restrained, with the balance and mouth-feel a highlight. Needs a few years, but this may well be the greatest Leeuwin Chardonnay released to date. A great way to end the evening.
The Porongurups in the Great Southern region of Western
Australia must surely produce the best Rieslings in Western Australia, showing
great purity of fruit and outstanding balance. Whilst they lack the long
history of the great Clare Valley Rieslings (such as Grosset and Leo Buring),
they are challenging the quality. The other region to also star with Riesling
in the last few years is Tasmania, but precious few of those make it to WA.
One producer that has consistently made high quality Riesling
from the region is Howard Park. Over the last few years, their Porongurup
Riesling has consistently been a star. The 2018 vintage is no exception,
resulting in a perfumed, floral wine with great aging potential.
The real surprise of the tasting however, was the 2018 Flint
Rock. An irresistible wine that has the ability to change how people perceive
Rieslings.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Riesling – Flint Rock – 2018. (18.5/20pts – $28). Pretty floral notes over a core of slate-like minerality. In the mouth, this is a delight, with the floral fruit flooding the palate, with hints of tropical fruit and talc. The palate transition is quite remarkable, with the fine lemony acid only making its presence at the very close. A wine that has the potential to bring new fans to the variety.
Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2018 (18.7/20pts – $35). Similar floral aromatics to the Flint Rock, though this is a little more restrained and less obvious initially. The palate is fresh, light and pristine, with the perfumed aromatics building over time. It is the depth of fruit that sets this apart from its siblings and is a wine for the cellar.
Personally, I would rather drink a white wine rather than a
Rosé
in general, but every now and then, a wine comes along to challenge my
perceptions. The Red Knot Rosé is one of those wines. The label says
“Crisp and Dry”, and this wine fits that description perfectly.
The other surprises this month came from wines made with
Tempranillo. There is growing interest in this Spanish variety here in
Australia, and the reviewed wines demonstrate two distinct styles of wines that
are worthy of attention.
The Paxton is delicious drinking, with pretty red berry and
floral characters, whilst the Singlefile is a more structured, savoury style
worth of time in the cellar. At $25 each, they also represent good value.
Reviewed
Shingleback – Rosé – Red Knot – 2018 (17/20pts – $18). A blend of Pinot, Shiraz and Grenache. Very pale and quite savoury. The refreshing acid carries the fruit on the palate, giving the impression of a bone-dry finish. There is decent length and mouth-feel, ensuring that this would be great with food. The label says “Crisp and Dry” and this fits the bill perfectly.
Paxton – Tempranillo – 2018 (17.7/20pts $25) Pretty red berry and floral fruit notes on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with delicious savoury fruit coating the palate and building in layers. The tannins and acidity keep things fresh, making for a great drink. Pizza or pasta – the choice is yours.
Singlefile – Tempranillo – 2017 (18.1/20pts – $25). Much more depth than the last, but also less accessible now. The savoury fruit is structured and textured, and gets a little chewy on the palate. This will accompany food well now, but will be better with a few years in the cellar. Good effort.
Margaret River has a reputation for producing some of the
greatest Cabernets in Australia, if not the world. So it came as no surprise to
the panel that the 2016 Cape Mentelle Cabernet is a truly outstanding wine.
But it was the quality of the entry-level wines from Cape
Mentelle and Vasse Felix that delighted the panel. They both make for great
drinking now, but are also worthy of time in the cellar to allow the wine to
evolve.
Also included in this review is the Cape Mentelle Zinfandel,
a wine of great finesse and elegance, which helps to redefine what this variety
is capable of in Australia.
Reviewed
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 (18.8/20pts – $98). Wow, wow, wow, this has it all. Bright, fresh floral fruit and savoury notes from the oak leads into a silky finish framed by fine tannins. A joy to drink now, but sure to age well for a decade or more. Gets serious on the close, with density of fruit, graphite and tar-like notes.
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $31). Given that this wine is the entry level Cabernet from Cape Mentelle, the quality is nothing short of outstanding. The dense, ripe fruit is a highlight. This is a serious wine, with chewy, structured fruit and savoury, texturing oak and tannins. Remains supple and lithe despite the power, with blueberry fruit building with air. Great now, but also age-worthy.
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon (Gold Capsule) – 2016. (18.5+/20pts – $47). Fragrant and pretty, with bright red fruits and gentle cedary oak, but the depth is a step up from the Filius. Very long, this builds real depth in the mouth. Near seamless, though the acidity does build on the finish. Brilliant now, but needs 10+ years to really hit its peak. This includes 11% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak (44% New).
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2016. (18.2/20pts – $28). Fresh and supple red berry fruit, with hints of mint on the nose. The palate is fine and savoury, with supple tannins and acid combining on a silky finish. Fresh and approachable, this is such an easy drink now, but has enough depth and Bordeaux-like structure to allow for short to medium-term cellaring. Excellent. Aged for 12 months in French oak, this includes 14% Malbec.
Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2016 (18.5/20pts- $58). This is very impressive. Real depth and power to the fruit, with red berry, cherry, tobacco and spice. The palate is poised and balanced, with a delicious finish. The texturing tannins and medium toast oak adding grip, but also balance. Very impressive , this has a lot of similarities with a high-quality Cabernet.
This week saw the panel try a couple of really smart wines
from Singlefile under the Run Free label. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay are very worthy wines at around $25 per bottle.
The surprise for me though was the Organic Rose from Angove.
A delicious, food friendly wine at a sensible price.
Reviewed
Moss Wood –
Semillon – 2018 (18/20pts). Almost green tinged, this is very grassy and
herbaceous, with lanolin notes. The palate is fine, though very zesty, with acidity
that, whilst intense, magically allows the creamy, textured fruit to shine.
Would be brilliant now with cured fish or super fresh sashimi, but will also
age well.
Singlefile –
Sauvignon Blanc – Run Free – 2018
(17.5/20 pts – $25). Fresh and vibrant, with grassy fruit over lantana and
tropical notes. Quite intense, with decent texture, this is a smart wine indeed.
The textural components on the finish are a highlight and reflect a portion of
barrel- fermented fruit.
Vasse Felix –
Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $24). Quite a complex nose, with and
hints of fresh tropical fruit and creamy, barrel- ferment aromas. The fruit
really shines on the long palate, complemented by a creamy texture and supple
finish. A quality wine that would make an excellent alternative to Chardonnay
with a mushroom risotto.
Singlefile –
Chardonnay – Run Free – 2017
(17.9/20pts – $25). This has a little wow factor. Creamy, silky fruit and
supple oak meld into a seamless package. The intensity and fruit weight are
note-worthy at this price point. There are hints of pineapple and tropical
fruit, but it is the melon notes that shine through. Fresh acidity ensures a
lively finish.
Brash –
Chardonnay – 2016 (18/20pts). With high quality fruit, creamy, textured
winemaking inputs, and subtle minerality, this reminds me a little of the
Pierro Chardonnay. A richer style.
Howard Park –
Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2017
(17.7/20pts – $28). Full of nervous energy. Taut yet there is impressive power
to the fruit. Whilst this will be very enjoyable with food now, it will be much
better with a couple of years in the cellar.
Angove – Pinot
Grigio – Organic – 2018 (17/20pts – $17).
Quite creamy and textured with a nutty, chewy finish. Again, the textural components
are more important than the fruit, but there are some fresh stonefruit notes on
the mid-palate. Slightly viscous finish adds interest to this food friendly wine.
Well made, if uncomplicated.
Angove – Rose – Organic – 2018 (17.3/20pts – $17). Fresh
strawberry and plum notes. This is very attractive, with just the right amount
of grip and texture to make the finish complete and refreshing. This feels
relatively dry adding to the appeal. The texture and acid would make this a good
choice with some nibbles on a sunny afternoon.
In the movie, The Devil Wears Prada, the character played by Meryl Streep chastises her underling (played by Anne Hathaway) for criticising the importance of fashion. She points out that the cerulean coloured sweater she is wearing has come about by the trickle down effect of high fashion, plotting where the colour originated, and how much influence designers, fashion moguls and magazine editors, have on the styles and tastes of the day. Meryl Streep’s character is making a business statement, highlighting the power of marketing.
I have heard it said the wine industry is also a fashion industry, in the sense that tastes and styles in favour at a particular time, by a particular group of people, are influenced by factors other than the product itself, in this case the wine.
I am aware I am treading into dangerous territory here, in that many would argue that the merits of a wine can be objectively assessed, and will “speak for themselves”, as it were. While I agree that this is the case to an extent, and have argued in a previous wine musings article that some objective assessment of the quality of a wine, along certain parameters, IS possible.
However, I am also of the belief that other factors influence market trends. In a sense, this statement seems self evident, but what factors are at play? And do they influence purchasing decisions more that the innate quality of a wine?
Let us lay out the ground rules first. There is more than one “market”, and even several “markets” in the same geographical location. Each market has its own relevant price point, level of engagement with the product, and “maturity”. By the last point I mean that some more established markets may seek novelty, newness.
Who then are the players in this fashion tussle? Several groups emerge as important – firstly, producers and winemakers themselves. Secondly, so-called “industry experts”, comprising, in the main, sommeliers, wine writers and commentators. Thirdly, there are results from wine shows and competitions. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, are consumers themselves.
It would be naïve to think that the above players do not influence each other, and that their influences can be synergistic and even antagonistic. It is likely that is some markets, and for some products, different players “hold the power” at different times.
What do you think? Who drives fashions and trends in wine?
In a line-up of high quality wines, the Vasse Felix Cabernet
really stood out. A wine with great poise and balance that has a very premium
feel about it.
At the more affordable end of the spectrum, the Thorn Clarke
Sandpiper is an excellent effort, with delicious fruit and supple winemaking.
Reviewed
Moss Wood –
Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2016 (18/20
pts). A very fine wine, though this is closed and tight. The fine tannins and
acid suppress the fruit, though the souring acidity adds drive to the finish.
Give it a few years to open up, and 10 years to shine.
Flametree – Cabernet
Sauvignon – SRS – 2015 (18.3/20+pts). A step up in power and fruit weight, this
is dense, powerful and compact. Darker fruit characters combine with serious
oak on a palate that is chewy and textured, with an abundance of fine tannins
on the finish. Needs years, but will be very good indeed.
Thorn Clarke – Cabernet
Sauvignon – Sandpiper – 2017 (17.8 –
18/20pts – $20). An approachable, modern wine with delicious red berry fruit,
gentle spice and supple texture. Souring acidity and excellent structure add to
the appeal of this excellent value wine.
Vasse Felix –
Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule –
2015 (18.5+/20pts). Refined red fruits with just a touch of mint and eucalypt.
The palate is fine and silky, with the tannins gradually building, eventually
closing down the fruit. This is a serious, powerful wine, where the fruit has
been expertly managed to make it approachable now, yet is also guaranteed to
age well for a decade or more. A complete wine with great poise.
Thorn Clarke – Cabernet Sauvignon – William Randell – 2016.
(18+++/20pts – $60). Textured, rich and chewy, with ripe, dense fruit of some
power. The finish is textured and chewy, with the fruit a little subdued right
now. An impressive wine with exemplary tannin management, this demands a rich
dish if drunk young. Gets very chewy on the
close. 20 years.
