Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Margaret River Cabernet Masterclass

Barry Weinman: 23^rd June 2018

Margaret River has been blessed with a succession of good to very good vintages from 2007 to 2011. If anything however, the years from 2012 to 2016 were even better, with many wineries claiming to have made their best ever wines from these years. 2014 probably garnered the most praise, yet some winemakers are claiming their 2015 and 2016 vintage wines are even better.

When it comes to selecting a dozen or so of the state’s best Cabernets to put into a tasting like this, we are blessed for choice, with several well-established wineries producing some of the best Cabernet-based wines in Australia (and, perhaps, the world). There is also a new breed of wineries that are producing great wines, making the choice even more difficult.

So the selection below is not a definitive list of WA’s finest. For example Howard Park’s Abercrombie had every right to be here. All wines reviewed however, clearly deserve their place on the list.

The tasting served to highlight both the tremendous quality and the value that Western Australian Cabernet can offer, when viewed on the world stage. With the best examples from France and the USA costing upwards of $1000 per bottle, most of these wines are cheap by comparison (at $500, the exception is Cullen’s Vanya).

The real value starts with the Jack Mann (equal top wine) at around $100, and the wines selling for less than $100 must surely be considered bargains! For me the greatest value was offered by:

Evans & Tate Redbrook: $40 (2013 vintage currently available from the winery)
Deep Woods Reserve: $65 (2015 vintage currently available from the winery)
Leeuwin Estate Art Series: $69 (2014 available from the winery)
Cape Mentelle: $80 (small quantity of 2014 available from Lamont’s)
Cherubino Frankand River: $83 (2015 available from the winery)
Houghton Jack Mann: $100 (though can be picked up cheaper)

A special thanks to the team at Lamont’s Cottesloe for hosting this tasting!

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.6/20pts – $80). Dark and brooding, this is somewhat of a beast right now. The palate has chewy fine tannins, is textured, long, and has a defined minerality to the acid driven finish. The fruit really needs time to fully express itself making this wine a 20+ year proposition. Will get higher points in time.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014. (18.8/20pts – $83). This wine possesses a degree of minerality that is not often seen in Australian Cabernet. Very long and fine, with the fruit persisting to the close. There is great depth to the fruit and a balance that few in this line-up could match. A charming wine that will be at its best with a great steak if served now, but will continue to improve for two or even three decades.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2015 (18.7/20pts – $500). Closed and subdued, this is firm and unyielding, yet remarkably, presents with a near seamless palate transition. Long and fine, but needing years for the fruit to emerge and show of its beauty. Brilliant, but be patient!

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $65). Supple blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with hints of spice and a savoury lift from the oak. The palate is refined, balanced and very long. The fruit lingers, eventually giving way to fine tannins that build on the finish. Tasting this superb wine was a near religious experience!

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2013 (18.7/20pts – $40). This is a powerful, yet compact wine of great merit. There is seductive blueberry fruit, with menthol and a touch of eucalypt adding interest. The fine grained tannins support the fruit beautifully, with blueberry and spice the main features on the palate. Ripe and focussed, this wonderful wine has great length of flavours. Showing the first signs of development, this wine continued to improve in the glass for some time and is great drinking now (or in 10 years). Unbelievable value for money!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2015 (19/20pts – $100). Brilliant colour. This wine shows everything good about Cabernet. Great quality fruit, with blueberry, spice, blackcurrant and a hint of eucalypt married to fine grained cedary oak. The tannins are a treat to behold, as they add texture and depth, without detracting from the fruit in the slightest. A truly effortless wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or any time over the next 20 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $69). Wonderful wine! Silky red fruit is paired to an almost earthy, textural palate, making for a powerful and impactful wine. Mulberry and spice notes abound, with the fragrant fruit really building with air. Hints of cassis, minerals, and fine tannins carry the palate to a very long close.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (18.6+) A crackingly good wine, with bright, succulent fruit married to souring acidity and fine tannins. Approachable and easy to drink, as the tannins are so very fine, yet this will also develop more depth with time in the cellar. Subtle and elegant, the supple palate has great length.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2013. (18.8/20pts – N/A). The perfumed violet aromas are a highlight, though there is a degree of restraint to this wine at present. The palate combines berry fruit with spice, cedar and a touch of vanilla/coffee notes to close. The mouth-feel is amazingly supple and silky, with no rough edges on the very long finish. Great wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2014 (18.9/20pts – $160). Fresher, tighter and more restrained than the 2013, with prodigious yet fine tannins and ripe black fruits on the palate. This is powerful and intense, but needs years to come around. Really blossomed after an hour in the glass, but is a 20 year+ proposition. Magnificent.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Matthew – 2014 (19/20pts – $150). Blueberry, redcurrant, violets and gentle spice on the nose. This is quite a contrast to the 2014 Tom Cullity, with an explosion of bright red fruits on a palate that is long, silky and deliciously supple, though it does get quite grippy with air. Excellent oak use supports the fruit perfectly. Whilst this is approachable now, this is a 10-20 year proposition.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Russel – 2015 (18.8/20pts – $150). The brilliant ripe fruit is fragrant and supple. There is also an amalgam of savoury notes that add depth, texture and interest. Coffee, cedar and cinnamon all come to mind. The palate is finely textured, with the silky tannins and great depth to the fruit. One of the best drinking wines in the tasting, but also capable of extended aging.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Clementine Eloise – 2016 (18.9/20pts – TBC). Pre-release sample. Remarkable poise for such a young wine. Refined balanced and oozing elegance, the pretty, ripe fruit has been skillfully handled, with the supple oak adding depth and texture. Long, supple and seamless, with blueberry fruit and a touch of menthol. A totally delicious wine that has the depth to age well for a decade or more.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.7/20pts). Juicy redcurrant and plum fruit over menthol and herbal notes here, reminding me of Coonawarra. The palate is very long, with the fruit the main focus. The oak tucked away nicely, adding textural notes on the close. Not as big as some here, but there is great quality fruit and wine-making on show. Can be drunk now with pleasure, but also very age-worthy. Brilliant!

New Release Tasting – June 2018

Barry Weinman: 16 ^th June 2018

This week’s panel tastings combined brackets of traditional varieties, as well as a selection of alternative varieties that generated a lot of discussion among the panel.

The wines reviewed are all about value, and include a smartly packaged GSM from Angove, as well as a couple of interesting reds from Patritti that are not only great drinking, they are well packaged and very affordable.

Reviewed

Patritti – Vermentino – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $18). A real surprise package, with pretty fruit that is floral and almost perfumed, with musk and tropical fruit notes. The palate is zesty and light, with excellent texture and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance and flesh out the mid palate. An excellent drink for a sunny afternoon with friends, and worked a treat with lemon infused roast chicken.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – 2016 (17.7/20pts – $25). The purple colour is striking. Initially quite closed, but with air, the ripe berry fruit can be coaxed from the glass. The palate is structured, textured and long, with fine tannins cloaking the dense fruit. Gets savoury and chewy to close. A smart wine that will be a treat with rustic food this winter, or given 5 – 10 years in the cellar.Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2017 (17.9/20pts – $22). The rich red berry fruit was a little subdued initially, but this blossomed after a couple of days in the bottle! The dense, ripe fruit is textured and long, with mid-palate minerality, bright acidity and supple oak adding depth. A powerful wine that could be enjoyed with a hearty steak now, but would be best with 10 years in the cellar.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2011 (N/R). When the 2014 and 2015 samples arrived, I thought it a good idea to open a 2011 from the cellar to see how it was developing. Lovely nose where the ripe fruit is perfectly matched to the more savoury characters. Aromas are an amalgam of berry, plum and cherry, with perfumed rose blossom highlights. The palate is initially more savoury, with souring acidity and fine tannins keeping the fruit in check. There is real depth to the palate, but this needs more time.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2014. Unfortunately affected by cork taint. Patritti – Saperavi – 2015 (17.5/20pts – $22). Saperavi is a traditional Georgian variety that was planted by Patritti after a visiting winemaker shared a bottle with the family. Lovely ripe fruit that is at once pretty and refined, yet there is density and weight underpinning the fruit. The palate is lighter than the 2011, and more approachable as a result. Decent length and mouthfeel to close, with a hint of liquorice. Would be brilliant with home-made pizza, but also with a few years in the cellar.

Chardonnay New Release – May 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th May 2018

With the cooler weather on the way, Chardonnay really comes into its own. The trick for me though, is not to serve high quality examples too cold. This is especially true of the modern, leaner styles. Served too cold, all of the fruit is lost whilst the acid is accentuated.

My cellar is set to 18 degrees, and just an hour or so in the fridge before serving is perfect, though even cellar temperature is fine. In fact, the tasting panel reviews all Chardonnays at room temperature, as this give the best chance for the wines to shine in their youth.

In this tasting, the two cheaper Chardonnays from Howard Park provided an interesting contrast. The Miamup (Margaret River fruit) was tighter and more restrained, whilst the Flint Rock (Mount Barker) was a touch more generous and approachable. Both, though, are excellent examples.

The other wine to feature from Howard Park was the 2017 Chardonnay. This is the first vintage of this wine to be labelled Margaret River. The wine started out as Great Southern, and has gradually transitioned over a number of years, as their Margaret River vineyards have matured.

A highlight was the wine from Angove. Who would have thought that McLaren Vale could produce a wine of such finesse?

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivianne – 2015 (18.5+/20pts – $80). A richer, more powerful style compared to many others in the tasting. Wonderful nose that is complex and complete, with cashew nut, spice, subtle creamy oak and refined stonefruit/pineapple melding seamlessly. The refinement is really evident on the palate, with the creamy textural notes setting the stage for the fruit to shine. Very long, the winemaking inputs and vanillin oak add depth. A superb wine now – 5 years. (From Denmark, the grapes for this wine were harvested over a four week period, and underwent wild yeast barrel fermentation and lees aging.)

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $58). Quite a modern, subtle style, yet there is great depth to the fruit, and it just needs a few years to open up. Minerality, stone fruit, nutty texture and lime acidity are all in the mix, whilst the very fine texture and length of the palate are a highlight. For the first time in this wine’s history, it is labelled as Margaret River.

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – 2017 (18.3/20pts – $73). Ripe pineapple and stonefruit notes (from Mendoza clone grapes), with a core of minerality that adds depth. Fine fruit and supple winemaking leads to a finish that is textured and very long. There is near seamless palate transition, though the high quality oak is still settling into the fruit. Would be brilliant now with oysters or ceviche, but time in the botte will see this blossom (and score higher points). 60% Porongurup & 40% Mount Barker fruit.

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – Villages – 2017 (18/20pts – $37). From the Mount Barrow Vineyard in Mount Barker. Whilst there are attractive citrus and white peach aromas, this wine is all about the texture and mouthfeel. From start to finish, the wine is near seamless. Long, supple, and balanced, the fruit, winemaking inputs and oak are completely integrated and in harmony. It lacks the ultimate depth of its big brother but is excellent drinking now, or over the next 2 – 3 years.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2017 (17.5/20 pts – $28). From Mount Barker. Perfumed stonefruit, citrus and tropical notes on the nose. The palate is where this wine shines, with the ripe peachy fruit balanced by a core of pineapple-like acidity that gives the palate a zesty lift. After spending 10 months on lees, this is a little richer than the Miamup, and more approachable as a result.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $28). From Margaret River, this is subtle and refined, with creamy fruit, lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit acidity. It has a well-balanced palate, with a finish that is long and fairly tight, in the modern style. A couple of years in the cellar should see this flesh out a little, or try it with a simple quiche now.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Gin Gin – Wilyabrup – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $39). Gin Gin refers to the clone of Chardonnay rather than the town north of Perth. The refinement here is a treat. High quality fruit in the nectarine and white peach spectrum, with subtle winemaking inputs, make for a wine that is superb drinking. The subtle palate builds depth over time, showing great balance and power.

Angove – Chardonnay – McLaren Vale – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $22). From 30 year old vines and treated to barrel fermentation and lees aging which add textural components. Minerals, grapefruit and masses of pretty peach fruit lead to a refined palate, with good texture and length. A smart, modern wine that demonstrates that McLaren Vale is not just about ripe, generous reds.

Imported Wines: Italy and Spain

Barry Weinman: 13^th May 2018

For those of us who have grown up in Australia, we are used to clean, bright wines where the fruit is allowed to sparkle. When reviewing a line-up of imported wines, the challenge is that the wines can be made in a number of ways.

We tend to struggle with those wines made in a rustic, old-fashioned way, as the fruit is often dulled, whilst oxidative characters come to the fore. As a result, only a few of the wines tasted for this review actually made it to these pages.

The good news is that those that did are all worth trying and cover a variety of styles.

Reviewed

Terre di Terrossa – Pinot Grigio – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $20). Quite floral and aromatic. The palate is nicely textured, and has good length. Some ripe peach fruit, a touch of honey and zesty acidity to close. Fresh and zippy, this is a compelling drink on its own, but would also accompany food well.

Palladino – Arneis – Roero – 2016 (17/20pts – $35). Clearly European, with a core of minerality and savoury fruit on the nose. On the palate, this is a drier, leaner style with apricot kernel and a touch of minerality leading to a neutral finish. Will be at its best with food.

Vega di Princesa – Albarino – 2016 (17/20pts – $29). More depth than others in this tasting, and actually quite good. Textured, with a touch of viscosity, the honey and strawberry fruit is balanced by long, vibrant acidity. A refreshing, versatile wine from Rias Baixas in Spain.

Begali – Valpolicella – Ripasso – Classico Superiore – 2015 (17.3/20pts – $33). The nose is subdued, but the palate has vibrant fruit with a savoury edge. Good length and mouthfeel, the textural components are a highlight. Souring cherry fruit and a touch of spice and tar add depth. Grippy tannins a plus with foods such as Prosciutto and other cured meats.

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2015 (17.5/20pts – $29). I like this. The fruit is ripe, yet there is a savoury core that runs the length of the palate. Fine, drying tannins, older oak, the texture gets a little chewy to close. Would be great now with roast lamb or a spicy Chorizo (perhaps a hint of Brett here, but it works for me). Querceto Di Castellina – Chianti Classico – L’Aura 2013 (17.7/20pts – $38). The ripe fruit here will suit many Australian palates, as will the dollop of new oak sitting behind the fruit. A wine that can be drunk now with pleasure, but really needs 10 years to open up.

New Release Reds: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 22^nd April 2018

This week’s new release tasting resulted in only three recommendations, but all are very worthwhile.

Regular readers will know that I am a big fan of Singlefile. Their mainstream wines offer brilliant quality at very reasonable prices. The 2016 Shiraz is no exception. A cellar-worthy wine that took two days to really reach its peak.

I was interested to see Langton’s auctioning a quantity of the 2014 Jones Block Shiraz from Paxton. This is a wine that even at its retail price of $40 offers fair value. That it can be bought at auction for under $25 (all fees included) makes it somewhat of a bargain. (It is also good buying from the cellar door at $30).

Reviewed

Snowball – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2010. (17.7/20pts). Plum, mint and ripe berry fruit shine on the nose. The palate is long and supple, with dusty tannins and supple oak. The fine acidity adds to the texture and balance. At 8 years of age, this is excellent drinking over the next 3 – 5 years.

Singlefile – Shiraz – 2016 (18+/20pts – $37). A wine of class and distinction that has both grace and presence. Cooler climate fruit showing cherry/berry fruit combined with souring plum acidity. Long and supple, the dense fruit is finely structured and restrained. Just a baby, this needs years to reach its peak.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2014 (18/20pts – $40). This wine has a wow factor. Ripe plum and liquorice, with hints of tar and spice. The palate is rounded, yet focused, with the savoury oak adding depth and texture to the core of lovely fruit. The tannins are fine, but noticeable, so time in the cellar will be rewarded.

New Release Tasting: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 7^th April 2018

We tasted a number of Italian and French wines this week, but a combination of cork taint and old-fashioned winemaking ruled them all out.

What did impress were a number of Western Australian wines. If you are after a bargain, then the 2017 Shepard’s Hut Pinot fits the bill perfectly. A delicious, vibrant, food-friendly wine that can be picked up for around $20.

Moving up the price range, the Windows Estate Chardonnay is a convincing effort, with powerful fruit matched to complex wine-making inputs.

Finally there are two vintages of Cape-Mentelle’s Zinfandel. The 2014 is structured, powerful and suitable for the cellar, whilst the 2015 is my pick of the tasting, offering vibrant, approachable fruit combined with complex spicy notes. A great drink now, but also worthy of time in the cellar.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Estate – 2016 (18/20pts – $45). Creamy and complex, yet retains freshness and vibrancy. Curry leaf characters, minerality, struck match and flintiness add depth and texture, reminding me of fine white Burgundy. Judicious use of high quality oak aids mouthfeel. Powerful and impressive!

Singlefile – Cabernet/Merlot – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $25). Mint and menthol notes combined with succulent ripe fruit, gentle oak and hints of spice. A delicious, early- drinking wine that would be great with braised lamb as the weather cools.

Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – Porongurup – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $25). Very pretty and almost delicate, with vibrant fruit on both the nose and palate. A touch of whole bunch fermentation adds a savoury, spicy component to the finish. Minimal oak and fine acid adds to the mouth-feel and finish. Makes me yearn for a simple roast to keep it company. Don’t be put off by the pale colour, this is a worthwhile wine.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.5 – 18/20). Starts off relatively restrained, but this builds with air to show plumy fruit and liquorice/earthy notes. Fine acids and drying tannins add depth, to a spicy, rich and intense wine. Short-term cellaring would help soften the tannins, but at four years old, this is already drinking well.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2015 (18/20 – $65). Wow, this is fantastic. Pristine fruit, polished winemaking and quality oak all combine into a wine that is great now, but will also cellar for a decade. Long and supple, with only modest alcohol (for a Zinfandel), the balance is the key. Builds spicy notes on the long finish, with high quality oak adding depth. 14.5% alc.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.8/20 – $65). More restrained and taut, with depth, texture and structure. The tannins are firm, yet fine, keeping the whole palate subdued. Needs years, but all the elements are in place. 15% alc.

Cabernet Sauvignon: March New Release

Barry Weinman: 18^th March 2018

Whilst the panel was expecting the strong showing from the West Australian wines, a highlight of the tasting was a Cabernet from Langhorne Creek. The Authur’s Reserve from Lake Breeze impressed with its dense, high-quality fruit that maintained elegance despite its power. Not to be outdone, the Cape Mentelle continues to impress. This is an outstanding wine.

Reviewed:

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.7/20 pts – $120). Lovely fragrant red-currant fruit on the nose. The palate is supple, long, elegant and refined, yet there is great depth to the fruit, with tar and hints of liquorice to close. Near seamless, yet the fine tannins and oak make the palate quite compact now. A brilliant wine of great finesse.

Lake Breeze – Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot/Malbec – Arthur’s Reserve – 2013 (18.4/20 pts – $44) Superb fruit on show here; dense, dark, brooding and almost inky. There is fresh acidity, ripe black currant fruit and very fine tannins. The finish is firm and structured, yet retains a degree of elegance and impressive length. Will be long lived.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18.2+/20 pts – $45). Closed and tight, with menthol, eucalypt and savoury fruit. The palate is firm and unyielding, the oak and tannins serving to shut down the fruit. Needs 10 years + before drinking. A more restrained wine than the 2014, but it will reward patience.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18+/20 pts – $50). A very fine and elegant wine with savoury tannins and oak adding depth. The flavour profile builds and evolves in the mouth. The finish is long and fine, though quite closed. Give it time.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2015 (18/20 pts – $30). The second Cabernet Sauvignon released under the Filius label and a worthy follow-up to the brilliant 2014. A long and savoury wine with fresh acidity, fine tannins and chewy texture. Builds velvety fruit with air.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Hidden Cave – 2014 (17.9/20 – $25). A fine, elegant wine of great charm. Blackcurrant and mint combine with fine, textural tannins and oak into a delicious package that would also take some bottle age. Excellent value.

Winery in Focus: Petaluma

Barry Weinman: 11^th March 2018

Petaluma was established by Brian Croser in 1976. In time, the winery was purchased by the parent company of Hardy’s, and in 2004 Andrew Hardy took over winemaking duties, and has been in charge ever since.

Petaluma’s reputation revolves around three regions, each with a specific variety.

Hanlin Hill in the Clare Valley: Riesling
Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills: Chardonnay
The Evans Vineyard in Coonawarra: Cabernet Sauvignon

In addition to these three, the winery has produced an excellent Merlot from time to time, and has now added a Shiraz to the range, along with a super-premium Chardonnay from the Tiers Vineyard.

The winery has also launched two new labels. The entry level White Label range and a series of limited release wines under the Project Co Label. And there is also Croser.…

My pick? The brilliant 2016 Chardonnay.

Reviewed

Petaluma – Riesling – Hanlin HIll – 2016. Fine, elegant, and intense with lime, as well as orange marmalade aromas. The palate has the trademark Petaluma richness that makes this a great drink, yet there is enough acidity to guarantee medium-term aging.

Petaluma – Chardonnay – 2016. Very fine and elegant nose, with subtle oak and lees aromas over peach and floral stonefruit. The intensity of fruit on the palate is a revelation, the creamy textural components serving to frame the fruit perfectly. Excellent length, there is an immediacy to the wine that is most attractive. 60% new oak.

Petaluma – Chardonnay– Tiers – 2015. A high impact wine, with more intense winemaking inputs that present as struck match and minerality. There is intense lemon, peach and nectarine fruit on the palate, with the oak adding depth and texture. That said, the structural components shut down the fruit on the close. Impressive power, balance and length, the wine is aged for 9 months in new French oak and undergoes 100% malo-lactic fermentation.

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. Opens with intense berry fruit over cigar box and cedary oak. On the palate the sweet fruit is defined by blueberry, blackberry and cassis. A powerful wine where the structural tannins and oak serve to shut down the fruit on the close. One for the long haul.

Sparkling Wine Masterclass with Winemaker Ed Carr

Barry Weinman: 4^th March 2018

Ed Carr is the undisputed king of sparkling wine in Australia, with over 25 vintages under his belt. Over this time, he has learned that climate has a greater impact on sparkling wine than soil. A southern latitude or high altitude provides the conditions for cool climate viticulture in Australia. Ed suggests that for every 100 metres of elevation, there is a corresponding one degree drop in temperatures.

This has led Ed, and the team at Accolade to focus their sparkling wine efforts on Tasmania (Arras and Bay of Fires), as well as select vineyards in the Adelaide Hills (for Croser).

Established in 1995, the first vintage of Arras was in 1998, which was released in 2002. To celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the winery, Arras has released 300 bottles of recently disgorged 1998 vintage at $350/bottle. If the quality of the late-disgorged 2002 is anything to go by, this will be a great wine.

Given that the “standard Arras” range sells for between $40 and $160 per bottle, it would be reasonable to ask if they are worth the money. After all, you can buy very good French Champagne at these prices. The answer is a definitive yes, the quality being right up there with the best France can do. This view is supported by the show judges, with the wines receiving numerous awards in the show circuit.

The critics are also impressed, with Halliday giving all the vintage wines between 96 and 97 points, whilst Huon Hooke gave the 1998 Anniversary wine 98 points!

It should be noted that the wines of Arras are not Champagne clones. They are high quality sparkling wines with a style that reflects both the climate where the grapes come from, but also the vision of the man making them. All of the vintage wines are outstanding, with the Blanc de Blanc being a personal favourite.

Reviewed

Yarra Burn – 2015 – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier – 2015. Quite a rich, fruit-driven style, with layers of autolysis (brioche/ bread dough) adding depth. Not overly complex, but has good presence, with the acid adding length (dosage = 10g/l, spends 2 years on lees).

Croser – Vintage – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – 2013. More restraint and elegance here, with the apple-like Chardonnay and berry notes making an impact. Fine, textural, long and elegant, with a supple, drying finish. 30% of the wine was aged in old oak which adds a nutty texture. The wine spent 3.5 years on lees, and has a modest dosage of 6g/l (liquored using aged Chardonnay).

Bay of Fires – Tasmanian Cuvee – Rose – NV. Just stained with salmon colour. A pretty wine that is subtle and elegant, yet possesses depth and complexity on the palate. Excellent length and mouth-feel, with a refreshing/drying finish that could even take food. The base wine for this was from the 2010 vintage. Dosage is around 9g/l, and the addition of red wine gives the colour and strawberry fruit.

Arras – Grand Vintage – 2008: A step up in both intensity and depth. Subtle autolysis notes add interest to the palate, which is a treat. Rich fruit and bright, lemony acid combine on a long, textured palate. Real power to the fruit, yet this remains elegant and poised, with the acid adding balance. (65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 9 years on lees, 10% of base wine aged in oak, dosage = 6g/l).

Arras – Blanc de Blanc – 2008. Similar power to the Grand Vintage, but with more noticeable stone fruit characters. Peach and nectarine are complemented by texture and depth on the palate. A superb wine that is still fresh, yet has excellent complexity. Different to a French Champagne and worth seeking out.

Arras – Rose – 2006. Pretty red fruits and great elegance define this wine. The intensity is dialled back a little, and bottle age has allowed the wine to open up. Try it with crispy skin salmon.

Arras – E.J. Carr – 2002 – Late Disgorged: Amazingly youthful and restrained, yet there is great finesse and power to the citrus/apple fruit. This is the same wine that was used in the 2002 Grand Reserve, however it was only disgorged in 2016. Served out of a magnum.

Brookland Valley Estate Review – February 2018

Brookland Valley Estate – New Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th February 2018

Brookland Valley Estate is part of the vast Accolade wine group, which includes labels such as Houghton, Arras and Hardy’s in Australia. Whilst many of the winemaking facilities are shared across the group, individual winemakers assume responsibilities for various brands. In the case of Brookland Valley, Courtney Treacher has responsibility for winemaking at the group’s Nannup winery.

The advantage of being part of such a large group is the ability to access high quality fruit from across the region. This means that Brookland Valley has access to some of the best fruit in WA for both their Chardonnays and Cabernets. This is helped by the fact that Houghton’s Jack Mann and Gladstones are single vineyard wines, so are not able to use fruit from other vineyards.

The high quality fruit, combined with slick winemaking has resulted in some very fine wines. The Chardonnays are aged in French oak for 9 months and undergo wild yeast and malo-lactic fermentation.

Here is a preview of the wines that are about soon to be released by the winery. As this was not a blind tasting (I tasted the wines with the winemaker), no points have been awarded. Needless to say, all wines reviewed are of very high quality.

Reviewed

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Estate – 2017. Restrained, taut and fine, the white peach characters are a highlight. The palate is textured, with supple oak, superb mouth-feel and excellent balance. Very long and fine, this is approachable now, but will develop depth with time in bottle as the wine builds in the glass. 2017 was a cool year, which is reflected in the fine acid balance (40% new oak).

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015. Greater depth and power, with stone fruit, minerals, struck match and malo/lees notes. A powerful, textural wine that manages to show restraint and excellent balance. Superb drinking! From a classic Chardonnay vintage, the fruit comes exclusively from the Brookland vineyard (50% new French oak).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Estate – 2015. Lighter, brick red colour. The nose is redolent of cigar box, mint, eucalypt and berry (almost cherry) fruit. On the palate, there is fine acid and tannin, with the oak adding depth. Serious, structured, textural and firm, this needs several years to evolve. From a cooler year, the fruit is hand-picked, open fermented and aged in French oak (30% new).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013: More obvious blueberry fruit, with mint and eucalypt highlights. The power and density of the fruit is palpable and the palate is textured and finely structured. Brilliant wine!