New Release Tasting: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 7^th April 2018

We tasted a number of Italian and French wines this week, but a combination of cork taint and old-fashioned winemaking ruled them all out.

What did impress were a number of Western Australian wines. If you are after a bargain, then the 2017 Shepard’s Hut Pinot fits the bill perfectly. A delicious, vibrant, food-friendly wine that can be picked up for around $20.

Moving up the price range, the Windows Estate Chardonnay is a convincing effort, with powerful fruit matched to complex wine-making inputs.

Finally there are two vintages of Cape-Mentelle’s Zinfandel. The 2014 is structured, powerful and suitable for the cellar, whilst the 2015 is my pick of the tasting, offering vibrant, approachable fruit combined with complex spicy notes. A great drink now, but also worthy of time in the cellar.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Estate – 2016 (18/20pts – $45). Creamy and complex, yet retains freshness and vibrancy. Curry leaf characters, minerality, struck match and flintiness add depth and texture, reminding me of fine white Burgundy. Judicious use of high quality oak aids mouthfeel. Powerful and impressive!

Singlefile – Cabernet/Merlot – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $25). Mint and menthol notes combined with succulent ripe fruit, gentle oak and hints of spice. A delicious, early- drinking wine that would be great with braised lamb as the weather cools.

Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – Porongurup – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $25). Very pretty and almost delicate, with vibrant fruit on both the nose and palate. A touch of whole bunch fermentation adds a savoury, spicy component to the finish. Minimal oak and fine acid adds to the mouth-feel and finish. Makes me yearn for a simple roast to keep it company. Don’t be put off by the pale colour, this is a worthwhile wine.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.5 – 18/20). Starts off relatively restrained, but this builds with air to show plumy fruit and liquorice/earthy notes. Fine acids and drying tannins add depth, to a spicy, rich and intense wine. Short-term cellaring would help soften the tannins, but at four years old, this is already drinking well.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2015 (18/20 – $65). Wow, this is fantastic. Pristine fruit, polished winemaking and quality oak all combine into a wine that is great now, but will also cellar for a decade. Long and supple, with only modest alcohol (for a Zinfandel), the balance is the key. Builds spicy notes on the long finish, with high quality oak adding depth. 14.5% alc.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.8/20 – $65). More restrained and taut, with depth, texture and structure. The tannins are firm, yet fine, keeping the whole palate subdued. Needs years, but all the elements are in place. 15% alc.

Winery in Focus: Petaluma

Barry Weinman: 11^th March 2018

Petaluma was established by Brian Croser in 1976. In time, the winery was purchased by the  parent company of Hardy’s, and in 2004 Andrew Hardy took over winemaking duties, and has been in charge ever since.

Petaluma’s reputation revolves around three regions, each with a specific variety.

• Hanlin Hill in the Clare Valley: Riesling
• Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills: Chardonnay
• The Evans Vineyard in Coonawarra: Cabernet Sauvignon

In addition to these three, the winery has produced an excellent Merlot from time to time, and has now added a Shiraz to the range, along with a super-premium Chardonnay from the Tiers Vineyard.

The winery has also launched two new labels. The entry level White Label range and a series of limited release wines under the Project Co Label. And there is also Croser.…

My pick? The brilliant 2016 Chardonnay.

Reviewed

Petaluma – Riesling – Hanlin HIll – 2016. Fine, elegant, and intense with lime, as well as orange marmalade aromas. The palate has the trademark Petaluma richness that makes this a great drink, yet there is enough acidity to guarantee medium-term aging.

Petaluma – Chardonnay – 2016. Very fine and elegant nose, with subtle oak and lees aromas over peach and floral stonefruit. The intensity of fruit on the palate is a revelation, the creamy textural components serving to frame the fruit perfectly. Excellent length, there is an immediacy to the wine that is most attractive. 60% new oak.

Petaluma – Chardonnay– Tiers – 2015. A high impact wine, with more intense winemaking inputs that present as struck match and minerality. There is intense lemon, peach and nectarine fruit on the palate, with the oak adding depth and texture. That said, the structural components shut down the fruit on the close. Impressive power, balance and length, the wine is aged for 9 months in new French oak and undergoes 100% malo-lactic fermentation.

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. Opens with intense berry fruit over cigar box and cedary oak. On the palate the sweet fruit is defined by blueberry, blackberry and cassis. A powerful wine where the structural tannins and oak serve to shut down the fruit on the close. One for the long haul.

Brookland Valley Estate – New Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th February 2018

Brookland Valley Estate is part of the vast Accolade wine group, which includes labels such as Houghton, Arras and Hardy’s in Australia. Whilst many of the winemaking facilities are shared across the group, individual winemakers assume responsibilities for various brands. In the case of Brookland Valley, Courtney Treacher has responsibility for winemaking at the group’s Nannup winery.

The advantage of being part of such a large group is the ability to access high quality fruit from across the region. This means that Brookland Valley has access to some of the best fruit in WA for both their Chardonnays and Cabernets. This is helped by the fact that Houghton’s Jack Mann and Gladstones are single vineyard wines, so are not able to use fruit from other vineyards.

The high quality fruit, combined with slick winemaking has resulted in some very fine wines. The Chardonnays are aged in French oak for 9 months and undergo wild yeast and malo-lactic fermentation.

Here is a preview of the wines that are about soon to be released by the winery. As this was not a blind tasting (I tasted the wines with the winemaker), no points  have been awarded. Needless to say, all wines reviewed are of very high quality.

Reviewed

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Estate – 2017. Restrained, taut and fine, the white peach characters are a highlight. The palate is textured, with supple oak, superb mouth-feel and excellent balance. Very long and fine, this is approachable now, but will develop depth with time in bottle as the wine builds in the glass. 2017 was a cool year, which is reflected in the fine acid balance (40% new oak).

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015. Greater depth and power, with stone fruit, minerals, struck match and malo/lees notes. A powerful, textural wine that manages to show restraint and excellent balance. Superb drinking! From a classic Chardonnay vintage, the fruit comes exclusively from the Brookland vineyard (50% new French oak).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Estate – 2015. Lighter, brick red colour. The nose is redolent of cigar box, mint, eucalypt and berry (almost cherry) fruit. On the palate, there is fine acid and tannin, with the oak adding depth. Serious, structured, textural and firm, this needs several years to evolve. From a cooler year, the fruit is hand-picked, open fermented and aged in French oak (30% new).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013: More obvious blueberry fruit, with mint and eucalypt highlights. The power and density of the fruit is palpable and the palate is textured and finely structured. Brilliant wine!

Bay of Fires – Current Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 14^th February 2018

Bay of Fires is a Tasmanian winery located on the Pipers River in the Tamar Valley. The winery produces a range of cool-climate still and sparkling wines under the Eddystone Point and Bay of Fires labels.

Winemaking is led by Penny Jones, a Tasmanian native who has been with the winery since 2013, after a decade at Petaluma honing her skills. As senior winemaker, Penny is looking to build textural components to the wines, to complement the pristine fruit.

This is really evident in the Eddystone Point range, where the textural components really add to the drinkability of the wines, making them perfect for early consumption. As good as these wines are, it is the Bay of Fires range that is really exciting: Pristine cool climate fruit that has been expertly handled in the winery.

Reviewed

Bay of Fires – Riesling – 2017 ($31). The intensity and focus of this wine is impressive. Citrus, spice and musk in a restrained package with texture, mouth-feel and fine acidity that carries the palate. Very long and delicious, the 4.5g/l of residual sugar makes for a delectable wine that is also age-worthy.

Bay of Fires – Pinot Gris – 2017 ($31). Much more taut and restrained compared to the Eddystone, with fine texture and acid. Alsatian in style (aromatic and floral, with the mouth-feel building on the close. A very fine example, worthy of short-term aging.

Bay of Fires – Sauvignon Blanc – 2017. A more textural, savoury style, with grassy notes over the gentle tropical fruit. Would take food very well and has excellent length. The small amount of new oak (5%) combined with some lees stirring/aging add to the mouth-feel.

Bay of Fires – Chardonnay – 2016 ($45). Restrained and elegant, with lemon curd and stonefruit notes. The winemaker’s influences are turned down, but there is still complexity and excellent depth. The supple mouth-feel is a highlight and the wine is sure to age well over the next 5+ years. Barrel fermented and aged in new French oak for nine months, with partial malo.

Bay of Fires – Pinot Noir – 2016 ($45). Serious depth and power to the fruit, though there is an admirable degree of restraint on show. Cherry, earthy notes, forest floor and spice all in evidence. Great balance and excellent length, the oak adding a silky texture. From a warmer year, this sees 20% whole bunch fermentation, aged in French oak (20% new).

Seppeltsfield – New Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 11^th February 2018

After 167 years of producing fortified wines under the Seppeltsfield label, the winery has launched a new range of table wines. The initial release is made up of a Riesling, Grenache and Shiraz, all in brilliant new packaging.

The Riesling comes from the Garden of Eden vineyard which sits at an elevation of 400m in the Eden Valley, whilst the Shiraz is from a number of vineyards across the Barossa.

The Grenache was the highlight for me. The fruit came from old bush-vine Grenache from the Great Terrace vineyard, and is young, fresh, fruity and oh-so-drinkable. Made without oak influence, the juicy red berry fruit is the main focus. Whilst perfect for early consumption, this did take a day or so for the fruit to really open up, so a year or two in bottle would not hurt, or an hour in a decanter. Drink at cellar temperature (18⁰-20⁰).

These wines are the first in the new range of wines that will also include premium and ultra-premium wines over the next few years.

Reviewed

Seppeltsfield – Riesling – Barossa – 2017 (17.5/20pts $25). A more generous style, with citrus and even some stone fruit on the nose. There is an explosion of vibrant citrus fruit on a palate which feels just off-dry, resulting in a finely textured and elegant finish. Excellent drinking now, but five years in the bottle will not hurt.

Seppeltsfield – Grenache – 2017 (17.9/20pts $25). This is really pretty. Opens with fragrant ripe fruit that is vibrant and crammed full of red berry fruit. The palate is fresh, fleshy and fun, with cherry, berry and plum-like notes. The juicy fruit is offset by fine tannins and refreshing acidity, with no oak to speak off. Great with a bowl of pasta, or try a few years in the cellar. Drink at cellar temperature (18-20 degrees)

Seppeltsfield – Shiraz – 2016 (18/20pts – $25). A more structured wine than the Grenache, with greater depth and density to the fruit. Ripe and elegant, the palate is textured and slightly chewy, with coffee notes to close. Although quite tightly knit, this represents good drinking, but also offers cellaring potential.

Shiraz – New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 28^th January 2018

Two pairs of wines stood out in this tasting, for both the quality of the wines, but also the contrasting styles between the wines.

Jericho’s Adelaide Hills Syrah is pretty and fragrant, whilst the sister wine from McLaren Vale is firm and dense.

Similarly, the Shottesbrooke GSM is deliciously juice and succulent, whilst the Shiraz is firm, structured and assertive. At $20 dollars per bottle, these two wines represent some of the best value wines that the panel has seen for a while.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2013 (18.5/20pts – $55). The fr  uit here is remarkable: restrained and tight, with the berry and mocha notes needing to be coaxed from the glass. Chewy, dense, powerful and very long, with very fine tannins that build and build. Whilst the balance is exemplary, this needs 10 – 20 years to be at its best.

Jericho – Syrah – Adelaide Hills – 2015 (18.3/20pts – $35). Fresh and vibrant, with pretty, fragrant cooler climate fruit. The supple palate is textured, long and delicious, with the quality oak allowing the fruit to shine. Really well made, this is a medium bodied Shiraz of great appeal.

Jericho – Shiraz – McLaren Vale – 2015 (18.3/20pts – $35). Wonderful wine with ripe fruit, chocolate/coffee complexity and supple oak. Long, refined, supple and fragrant, the mouth-feel is a highlight. Will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Barossa Trail – Shiraz – St Kitts Vineyard – 2016 (18/20pts – $35). Sweet, ripe red berries, with fine tannins and refreshing acidity. A fine, elegant wine with depth, supple tannins and excellent length. Will benefit from short term cellaring. From the team at Thorn Clarke.                                     

Shottesbrooke – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Estate Series – 2015. (18/20pts -$20). Pretty, fragrant and enchanting, this wine has lovely bright Grenache fruit. There are red berries to the fore, with a seam of white pepper from the Shiraz adding depth and texture. Fleshy, vibrant and succulent with decent length, this is great early drinking.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate Series – 2015 (18/20pts – $20). Firm, assertive and quite powerful, yet there is a degree of restraint to the fruit. Very long, the berry and cherry characters slowly build on the finish. A well-made wine with great density that could be drunk young, but would ideally benefit from 10 years in the cellar. From a very good vintage in McLaren Vale.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Vin Vale – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $15). A fine, almost pretty wine with juicy ripe cherry and blueberry fruit. The fruit persists on the long finish for some time, with the weight matching the fruit well. Great value drinking.

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $20). Chocolate fruit in a medium-bodied, approachable package. Plum, cedar and even a touch of spice on the palate, with excellent length to close. A delicious Barossa Shiraz that will be even better drinking with a couple of years in the bottle.

New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 19^th January 2018

Pared down from over 50 wines tasted this week, here are my pick of the new release wines. They all offer superb drinking now, however the Cape Mentelle in particular is very age-worthy.

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $24). Refreshing and vibrant, with fresh citrus notes. The palate is long and supple, with fresh, cleansing lemony acid and decent length. Drinking a treat, this will be great on its own or with food. From Barossa.

Scotchmans Hill – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $25). Aromatic, fresh, grassy, herbaceous and zesty, this is a good drink. Reminds me a little of white Bordeaux, with 10% of the fruit fermented in old oak and the extended lees contact adding texture.

Stella Bella – Sauvignon Blanc – 2017 (17.5/20pts). Quite herbaceous, with lantana, gooseberry and hints of passionfruit. The palate is fresh and lively, the acid playing nicely on the close. Good length to finish. A refreshing and worthwhile wine for the warmer afternoons.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Laissez Faire – 2015 (18/20pts – $33). Attractive floral notes, with gun smoke and struck match aromas. This wine has been cleverly worked, with the smoky characters matched to quality fruit. Excellent length and depth, with a supple mouth-feel and quality oak. A powerful wine for sharing with friends over a meal. From the Porongorups.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18.7/20pts – $108). Ripe, elegant and fine with wonderful depth to the fruit. Aromas of mint, eucalypt and blackcurrant, with even a touch of cassis and cigar box. The palate is a textural treat, with the fine tannins and supple, high quality oak adding depth. Very long and fine, with grace and presence, this is irresistible now, but will age for 20+ years.

Singlefile New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 19^th January 2018

With the Christmas break behind us, the panel has got back to work , tasting over 50 wines this week to find you the best wines for January.

The highlight of the tasting was provided by the wines from Singlefile.

The Sauvignon Blanc is a fine example of a style made famous in Bordeaux. Wild yeast fermentation, partial oak aging (25% new French oak, 25% 1 year-old oak) and 5 months on lees. A wonderful wine with great depth.

If anything, the Singlefile Family Reserve Chardonnay is even better. From the Singlefile Vineyard planted in 1989, the fruit quality is superb. After whole bunch pressing, fruit was transferred to fine French oak (40% new) for fermentation and 9 months aging on lees, with weekly batonage. A small portion of the fruit (8%) underwent malolactic fermentation to aid mouth-feel.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2016 (18/20pts – $30). From the Stoney Crossing vineyard in Pemberton. Refined elegant and pretty, the fruit showing floral and perfumed notes and a touch of lemon zest. The gentle oak and lees work adds depth and texture to the palate without dominating the fruit. Silky, very long and food friendly, this is a lovely wine, and excellent value compared to a decent Chardonnay.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2016 (18.5+/20pts – $50). Supple, refined and elegant, with a core of ripe peach fruit complemented by gentle nuttiness. The palate is creamy and fine, with pineapple, citrus and melon fruit notes. This is a wine of great finesse, with subtle oak and lees work adding depth. Wonderful!