Faber Wines Retrospective Tasting – Part One: Verdelho and Riche Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 25^th September 2017

At the recent Swan Valley Wine Show, there was a clear preference by the judges for elegant, refined red wines. This led to a discussion with John Griffith (winemaker/owner of Faber) around how styles come in and out of fashion.

The styles rewarded in the show do not always correlate with what is popular with the wider drinking public, where depth and generosity of fruit along with typicity may be highly valued. It must be tempting as a winemaker to adjust the style of their wines to please the show judges.

John emphasized the point that, at Faber, his primary aim was to make the best wine possible from grapes that are most suited to the region in which they are grown. In the Swan Valley, this is Shiraz, Verdelho and Muscat (for fortified wines).

To demonstrate the style of wine that Faber is striving to achieve, John opened a number of vintages of Shiraz and Verdelho, going back to the inaugural vintage of 2001. Whilst the focus of Faber is firmly on the Valley, they also produce a couple of wines from outside the district, including a Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon.

Verdelho

Perhaps the hidden jewel of Western Australian wines, the Swan Valley is capable of producing high quality, age-worthy wines from Verdelho. Style can vary a little, depending on picking regimes. At Faber, John is looking for a little more fruit ripeness, to really capture the lovely stone fruit characters that the variety can produce. This is reflected in the alcohol content which is typically around 14%.

Faber – Verdelho –2006. From a cool year in the Valley, this has wonderful fragrant fruit. Hints of lanolin, pear, musk on the palate with gentle grip and bright acidity. Remarkably fresh for an 11 year old wine, with some toast just starting to show.

Faber – Verdelho –2009. A richer example showing lemon, apricot and nectarine notes. The aged characters are starting to develop, adding depth and complexity to the wine. A marvelous drink, yet capable of further aging.

Faber – Verdelho –2013. This bottle was even fresher than the one I tried a few weeks ago. The primary fruit still evident, though just starting to show some developed characters. Just a hint of toast to close. Great now or in 5 years.

Faber – Verdelho –2017. Wonderful floral, perfume aromatics that are reminiscent of fine Porongurups Riesling. The floral fruit carries through to the palate, where the pretty fruit is balanced by fine acidity and delicate texture. A lovely drink now, but very age-worthy. Vintage conditions resulted in a different style to the norm at Faber, and this is worth seeking out.

Riche – Shiraz

The Riche stands out for value, selling for $23 from the winery. The fruit is 100% Swan Valley, all from Hadrill Road where the winery is located. The free-run juice from fruit destined for the Reserve and Milliard forms the base for this wine.

The wine is aged in American Oak (1/3 new) for 10 months and is made in the same way each year, allowing vintage conditions to express in the wine. The first vintage was made in 2001 from three year-old vines, and the bottle I tried was the last one in the winery.

The increasing maturity of the vines was really evident by 2015, resulting in greater depth to the wine.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2001. Developing some port-like notes, but the ripe, succulent fruit is still evident. The palate is finely textured and quite drying, with the fruit starting to fade on the finish. Drink up.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2007. This was as a hot year in the Swan Valley, resulting in a wine that is ripe, succulent, juicy, and a joy to drink. The plum-like fruit is complemented by fine tannins and refreshing acidity. A great drinking wine that would suit a hearty stew.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2010. The structure is more evident in this wine. The ripe fruit is balanced and poised, with fine tannins and a lick of oak adding depth. The length of flavours and mouth-feel are a highlight. Lovely drinking, but able to age further if desired.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2015. Lovely fruit here. Licorice, spice, satsuma plum, and cherry. The palate is quite closed and tight, with the oak and dusty tannins keeping the fruit in check. Gets quite chewy to close. One for the cellar.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2016. Fragrant, ripe fruit with spice and life. Initially, I thought this was going to be all about the succulent fruit, however the tannins, oak and acid pull on the reins, keeping the palate in check. The savoury finish makes this a great choice with a bowl of bolognaise.

Swan Valley Wine Show 2017

Barry Weinman: 19^th September 2017

The Swan Valley Wine Show proved an excellent opportunity to review some of the wines that the Swan Valley does well; Shiraz, Verdelho and fortified wines. The judges singled out the alternative reds as being a particularly strong class, so I added these to the tasting sheet.

What I found most interesting was the style of wines that received gold medals, particularly with the reds. It appears that the judges were looking for refined, elegant examples, rather than the bigger, richer styles that can do so well in a warm region like the Swan Valley.

Given the weather difficulties that the region faced in 2017, the Verdelhos from Mandoon and Stringybark were particularly noteworthy.

Finally, it was an honour to taste the medal-winning fortified wines. Whilst tasting over 40 young wines at 8am proved challenging, the fortified wine were an absolute pleasure as there were some spectacular wines!

Congratulations to Sittella for being recognized as the Most Successful Exhibitor.

Alternative Varieties

Gold Medal

Sittela – Grenache – Avant-Garde – 2016. Very fine fruit, yet still ripe and textured. Good length, with fine tannins and acid. An elegant and refined expression of Grenache, and great drinking. (Trophy – Best Red Wine or Blend (Other than Shiraz); Trophy – Best Swan Valley Red Table Wine).

Sittela – Petit Verdot – 2014. Very finely structured, with great presence and mouth-feel. The tannins and oak are a treat, being very fine and almost silky. Super stuff and age-worthy to boot.

Silver Medal

Mandoon Estate – Grenache – Old Vines – 2016. Bright, vibrant hue. Succulent and ripe, with delicious berry fruit. There is just enough structure and texture to keep this in line. A great drinking red.

Mandoon Estate – Grenache/Shiraz/Merlot – Surveyors Red – 2016. Bright, fresh and delicious, with a silky mouth-feel. Great early drinking red.

Pinelli – Durif – Reserve – 2016. A big red, with dark cherry fruit, licorice and fine tannins leading to a very drying finish. Needs a big steak.

Upper Reach – Shiraz/Grenache – The Gig – 2015. Concentrated fruit on the nose. The palate is flooded with ripe, chocolatey fruit, fine tannins and savoury oak adding depth. The acid keeps things fresh and lively. A big red that will be great on a cold evening or with a few years in the cellar.

Olive Farm Wines – Touriga Nacional – 2016. Really interesting wine, where the ripe, supple berry fruit is blanketed in superfine tannins. Worth a try.

Shiraz

Gold Medal

Aldersyde Estate – Shiraz – 2015. Attractive, vibrant berry characters on the nose. The palate is fine and elegant, with excellent structure and mouth-feel. Almost delicate, this is a treat. (Trophy: Best Shiraz or Shiraz Dominant Blend).

Pinelli – Shiraz – Reserve – 2014. A fine and elegant expression of Shiraz, with a very silky finish.

Sittela – Shiraz – Coffee Rock – 2015. Very dense fruit that has plum and aniseed notes. Very fine tannins and supple oak give a near seamless palate transition. A very fine wine deserving its gold medal.

Upper Reach – Shiraz – Reserve – Gold – 2015. A complex, powerful wine, where the dense fruit and savoury structure add equal amounts of interest. Fine tannins carry the finish.

Silver Medal

Faber – Shiraz – Milliard Vineyard – 2015. Lovely concentrated ripe fruit with depth and complexity. The vanillin oak adds to the package. Excellent length to close.

Mandoon – Shiraz – Old Vine – 2015. Chocolate/berry fruit. Concentrated dense and textured, with savoury oak to close. A traditional style that will pair well with food.

Sitella – Shiraz – 2015. Elegant, drying, with fine fruit. An excellent food wine that will be great drinking now or in 5 – 8 years.

Faber – Shiraz – Riche – 2015 . A rich, hedonistic wine that will provide great drinking pleasure.

Verdelho

Gold Medal

Faber – Swan Verdelho – 2013. Just starting to show some lovely aged honey, toasty notes, yet retains freshness and purity to the fruit. The palate is complete, with the fruit still vibrant, complimented by complex notes from time in bottle. A great example of how these wines start to develop. (Trophy: Best Verdelho).

Riverbank – Verdelho – 2004. Some similarity to old Riesling, with the oily, mineral notes, a drying finish with toasty complexity on the finish. Drink up.

Stringybark – Verdelho – Chittering – 2017. Lovely tropical fruit that is vibrant and focused. Excellent length to close. Good current drinking, yet should build depth with time in bottle. (Trophy – Best 2017 Verdelho).

Silver Medal

Mandoon Estate – Verdelho – 2017. Classically-styled Swan Valley wine, with stone fruit and citrus notes and just enough phenolics to add texture to the finish. Sure to develop well.

Moondah Brook – Verdelho – 2016. A straightforward wine that has no rough edges. Good value, everyday drinking.

Rebellious – Verdelho – 2017. Grassy and fresh, with lanolin and pear skin notes. Some phenolics add mouth-feel leading to a drying finish.

Fortified Wines

Gold Medal

Houghton – Rare Liqueur – Cellar Reserve – NV. A concentrated sweet style with Christmas cake and raisin notes. Long and supple finish that lingers.

Faber– Liqueur Muscat – NV. Floral, pretty fruit on the nose, balanced by complex raisin notes. The freshness on the palate sets this apart adding life and vitality. Irresistible drinking.

Sittella – Liqueur Muscat – Show Reserve. Very dark. Intense, powerful and with great balance. Chewy, textured and very long. Fine acid balance. (Trophy: Best Fortified Wine of Show)

Talijancich – Pedro Ximenes – Liqueur – 2007. Toffee notes, coffee, mocha and incredible denseness. All this and more on the palate, with drying acidity maintaining the balance perfectly. Delicious, with great viscosity.

Talijancich – Julian James – Reserve Muscat – Blend No 12 – 1961 Solera – NV. Intense coffee and toffee nose leading to an incredibly dense and viscous close. Remarkable wine.

Pinelli – Grand Tawny – NV. (Not Reviewed)

Talijancich – Rare Tawny – NV. A highlight for me, as the freshness of the wine is a lovely counterpoint to the aged characters and obvious sweetness. So easy to drink, but also a wine with great presence and depth.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release Tasting – September 2017

Barry Weinman: 5^th September 2017

The panel had their work cut out this week, with almost 40 Cabernets and blends split over two sessions. The reason for splitting the tasting is that we find that after about 25 wines, our palates (and brains) start to fatigue, with later wines suffering as a result.

Eleven wines made it to this review, and are all are worthy of attention. There are a number of styles, with several good value, early drinking wines, plus age-worthy reds of some note.

Reviewed

Te Aro Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pump Jack – 2014 (18.4/20). Taut and firm, the structural components add a lovely textural mouth-feel, but do shut the fruit down somewhat on the long finish. Will be an excellent match to a good steak now given the fruit and acid, but will be at its best in 10 – 15 years.

Gralyn – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.3/20). Cooler fruit characters that are restrained. Taut and angular palate, yet the tannins are polished and fine, adding chewy texture to the finish.. Needs ten years to really shine.

Woodvale – Cabernet Sauvignon – Orchard Road – 2014 (18.2+/20). Succulent minty fruit, with a touch of eucalypt oil that is so typical of the Clare Valley. The serious fruit had decent power. The palate is defined by the ripe, lingering fruit that sits well with the supple savoury oak and dusty tannins. An impressive wine now – 10 years.

Salomon – Cabernet Sauvignon – Finniss River – 2014 (18/20). An excellent wine from the Braeside Vineyard. Dense, ripe fruit with eucalypt and mint over cherry and spice. The compact, medium-bodied palate shows ripe fruit and fine tannins. The oak adds savoury notes. Excellent fruit and polished winemaking. (18 months in french oak, 50% new).

After Hours – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18/20). The fruit is ripe and a pproachable, and is complemented by gentle tannins and oak. The acid adds life and carries the finish. Decent length and balance with a touch of spice to add interest. A delicious and enjoyable wine that is easy to drink. (Received a gold medal from one panellist).

Passel Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18/20 – $42). Dense, yet approachable fruit on both the nose and palate. The mouth-feel and texture are a highlight, with chewy tannins adding structure. Good balance and length to close.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2015 (18/20 – $28). Refined and elegant, with ripe, medium-weight fruit complemented by fine tannins and texturing oak. The acid adds life. Excellent fruit and winemaking. Slightly chewy, the drying finish adds life. Value.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon /Merlot – 2015 (18/20). The precise ripe red berry fruit is really quite attractive. On the palate, the fruit is elegant and finely balanced, with fine tannins, savoury notes and excellent length. A classy wine.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon /Merlot/Malbec – Margaret – 2015 (18.5). Initially taut and lean, this wine is all about potential. Whilst the serious fruit is shy and reserved, there is near seamless palate transition, with the feather-light tannins dusting the palate leaving a drying finish. A 20 year proposition, but will be superb now with a bit of air and decent food.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2015 (17.6/20). Refined and elegant, with no rough edges. Well made, balanced and long, with fine tannins and decent fruit weight. Would benefit from a few years in the cellar, but an excellent drink now.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Scuttlebutt – 2015 (17.5/20). Good fruit and smart winemaking on show. There is an attractive degree of fleshiness to the ripe cabernet fruit, with just the right amount of tannins and oak to add depth. Not serious, this is a well-made, easy drinking wine.

Ostler Wines

21^st August 2017

Ostler wines are situated in Waitaki Valley, North Otago. Whilst this is a brand new Geographic Indication (GI), Ostler produced their 1^st vintage back  in 2004 from vines planted in 2002. There are another 8 – 10 wineries in the region, with 100 hectares under vine.

North Otago is approximately 100km east of Central Otago, at a similar latitude. It is only 50km from the ocean, leading to a more maritime climate. This translates into cooler summers and extended ripening periods.

The difficult climatic conditions make for excellent wines made from Pinot Noir, but frost and late rain make viticulture very risky. Fortunately, the autumns can be fairly dry, allowing the grapes to be left on the vine until very late (some grapes have been harvested in June!). In 2014, no wines were made and in 2017, no Caroline’s will be produced. The conditions also serve to restrict yields, with four tonnes per hectare a good result (no bunch thinning required here).

Both Audrey’s and Caroline’s vineyards are planted in limestone soils. I found a clear minerality in the wines which owner Jim Jerram attributes to the limestone, whilst the marginal climate adds textural complexity.

Given how difficult winemaking can be in the region, the wines are actually quite well priced. They are distributed locally by Vranken Pommery, and they are also holding small quantities of previous vintages which are worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2014. Smells a bit like a wine from Alsace, with musk and ripe pear characters defining the nose. Yet there is a core of structured minerality supporting this. The acid drive on the palate is a feature, with the phenolics toned down and the fruit accessible. There is the trademark minerality on the finish. A lovely drink. (Harvested 30^th May. Whole bunch pressed, 80% of juice is free run and fermented in stainless steel. The remaining 20% is from the pressings and is transferred into old oak with extended wild yeast fermentation and lees stirring. 8.5% residual sugar, 14% alc, 7.4g/l tartaric acid.)

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Blue House – 2015. Fragrant and succulent fruit on the nose. The berry fruit gives way to a firm, drying palate with sour cherry fruit and acid. An excellent drink that would be best paired with savoury food.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2015. More density and texture, with the acid adding drive to the palate. The fruit is vibrant and lifted, with dense cherry fruit and velvety tannins. There is a nervous energy to the wine that suggests that a couple of years in the bottle will see this fill out. Will be a treat with richer meat dishes now. With harvest dates in May, this must be some of the latest picked Pinot in the southern hemisphere.

June New Releases

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2017

Due to technical challenges, I was unable to publish any of the reviews from June. So here is a summary of some of the great wines that came in front of the panel.

In writing my notes for the Bass Phillip and Madfish Chardonnays, I wondered how such divergent wines (in both style and price) could both score 18 points. In reality, the Bass Phillip is a much more serious wine, but the drinking pleasure provided by the Madfish elevated its points significantly. So whilst the wines scored the same points, they are not equals.

Riesling

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2016 (18.5pts – $34). Each year, this is my pick of the Howard Park Rieslings, as it possesses greater depth, yet is also the most elegant and delicate of the wines. Pretty aromatics that are floral and very delicate. On the palate, the texture and minerality of the wine is key, set against a backdrop of fine acidity. One to watch.

Madfish – Riesling – 2016 (17.8 – $18). Fresh and taut. The palate is delightful, with lemon blossom and talc. The core of acid and minerality gives the wine drive and persistence. A fine and elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar, yet would be great with freshly shucked oysters now. Value!

Chardonnay

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivianne – 2014 (18.5+pts – $80). Complex, powerful and youthful, with curry leaf, minerality and stone fruit. The fruit purity on the palate is captivating, supported by a veneer of oak that adds depth and mouth-feel. Finishes with near seamless palate transition with great length. Age-worthy, this is outstanding.

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – 2015 – (18.5pts – $38). Fine, refined and elegant, with great presence in the glass. Lemony fruit and acid, with stone fruit, nectarine and peach. Textured, balanced, complex and long, this will open with time in the bottle. Only 13% alcohol.

Bass Phillip – Chardonnay – Estate – 2015 (18pts). Nectarine and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is defined by the racy acidity, which complements the fine fruit perfectly. Hints of pineapple, almond meal and lemon/grapefruit citrus notes. Fresh and long, this is a serious and powerful wine that has real presence in the glass. Now – 5+ years.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts). Fresh lemon and white peach here, with almond meal nuttiness to the fruit. The palate is long, fine and textured. The oak is well judged, but will benefit from a little time to come together. Excellent value. Madfish – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts – $18). Pretty fruit that is floral and perfumed. The palate is a delightful blend of floral characters and stone fruit, with a lovely creamy texture. Quite seamless, this lingers for some time on the finish. A slightly different style, but one that is most attractive. Great drinking and excellent value.

Stella Bella – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts+). Grapefruit, citrus, ripe stone fruit, creamy, textural oak, this has it all. Superb mouth-feel and very long, the acid adds life and balance. Delightful now, but cellaring will see the acid soften and the fruit characters build.

Reds

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2015 (18.3pts – $25). Intense and powerful fruit with the aromas coming in waves. The palate has minty cabernet fruit with spicy undertones, tar and chewy tannins power, yet retains a degree of elegance that is remarkable. A classic Cabernet that offers great drinking or short/medium-term cellaring.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2013 (18.5pts – $55). Silky and supple, yet there is a seam of powerful fruit behind the prettiness, keeping the palate taut and restrained. Very long, with souring acidity and coffee-ground oak notes. A refined wine that really builds intensity with air. A wine with a very long future. (5 gold medals). 14.5% alc.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2015 (18.3pts – $23). Textured, powerful, firm and taut, with chocolaty fruit. Powerful blueberry fruit builds in layers, complemented by a spicy edge. Textured and long, this is a superb wine that is so easy to drink.

New Release – July 2017

Barry Weinman: 13^th July 2017

The panel looked at a variety of styles this week as well as wines at varying price-points. The team at Angove continue to impress, this time with their Organic range. Angove have arguably the largest holdings of organic vineyards in Australia.

The Rosé was a stand out and sets a benchmark for this variety in Australia. However, the Shiraz/Cabernet was my pick – a bargain that could even take a few years in the cellar.

Another bargain was the Wolf Blass Yellow Label Shiraz. A delicious wine that can be picked up for as little as $10.

Moving up the price scale, the wines from Rochford and Singlefile impressed greatly.

Finally, I would like to draw your attention to the wines from St Mary’s. Here are idiosyncratic wines where you can taste the region in each of the wines. They are also delicious drinking!

Reviewed

Angove – Sauvignon Blanc – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Fresh and lively, with floral notes, musk stick and a touch of cut grass. The palate is a treat and, while not overly complex, has plenty of lemony fruit. Great quaffing (demonstrating that the Riverland can make decent SB).

Rochford – Chardonnay – Dans Les Bois – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18.5pts – $49). A serious wine that has had the gamut of winemaking techniques. Barrel ferment and10 months’ lees aging in oak (30% new) has added great complexity and depth. The nose is powerful, with minerality, curry leaf and a touch of struck match. The palate is very long and textured. The high quality fruit and oak need a year or two to integrate, but this is a very impressive wine.

Angove – Rosé – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Very pretty colour complements the attractive, vibrant floral fruit that reminds me of red berries and jubes. The palate is round and soft, the berry characters complemented by balancing acidity. Will be great on its own, or with antipasto. 100% Shiraz.

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – Limestone Coast – 2014 (17.8+pts – $35). The sense of place is a key feature of this wine. The mint, and chocolate characters are so typical of the region, yet there are still floral berry characteristics typical of Pinot. The palate is supple and textured, with souring cherry fruit. Ageworthy, this is a unique expression of Pinot that captures the terroir from which it was produced (cork closure).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Philip Adrian – 2014 (18.5+pts – $80). A blend of restraint and power. Inky purple colour. Complex, restrained and taut. The palate is supple and very long. A wine for the long haul that only hints at what is to come with time in bottle.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2017 (117.8pts – $16). Attractive blue and red berries (Shiraz) over a core of structural elements (Cabernet). Excellent length and persistence, with the textural components coming into their own on the finish. At this price it is also worth putting a few in the cellar, to see how they develop over the next 5 years. A delight! (from the Riverland).

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Yellow Label – 2015. (17.8pts – $16). This is a wine that will please lovers of a big juicy red. Ripe plum fruit, balanced on a textured, chewy palate. The lushness of this wine is a standout. My points might be a little high, but this is ridiculous value at $10 from Dan Murphy.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – Limestone Coast – 2015 (18.2pts – $30). Another wine that speaks of its region, with mint/menthol and eucalypt, over ripe, plump fruit. Great balance on the palate, with excellent texture and mouth-feel. A delicious, complete wine that will also age well in the medium term.

Pinot Noir – June 2017: New Release

Barry Weinman: 18^th June 2017

Pinot Noir is not the easiest wine to make well. It tends to do best in cooler, boutique wine producing areas and requires plenty of attention in the winery. Also, the attention required in the vineyard precludes large scale plantings. So compared to Shiraz, these are not the cheapest wines to produce.

Affordable Pinot Noir is an elusive beast. The highlight for me of a recent line up of Pinots was the new Shottesbrooke Pinot from the Adelaide Hills. Here is a good drinking, varietally correct wine that is selling for $20. Definitely worth a look.

Though it costs more, the Picardy Pinot is in fine form. Precise and balanced, it is great drinking now, but will also improve in the bottle.

Reviewed.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts -$40). Solid core of pretty fruit. Berry, plum and cherry characters with tar, liquorice and spice. Gentle oak adds depth with the fruit tannins and acid drive on the finish. An excellent wine that will build complexity in the bottle over the next 5 years.

 Shottesbrooke – Pinot Noir – Adelaide Hills – 2016 (17.6pts – $20). Lovely colour and aromas of ripe berry/cherry fruit. Silky, supple, decent texture and relatively fine, with cedary characters adding depth. Not overly concentrated, but a great drink. The generous flavours linger. A decent $20 pinot is a rare commodity, but this one hits the spot.