Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Piedmont – December 2014

Reviewed: 14th December 2014

I recently attended a tasting hosted by Maurizio Ugge from Arquilla, an importer of a large variety of Italian wines. The focus was specifically on the wines of Piedmont and included wines from several highly regarded producers.

Whilst there were decent Dolcettos and Barberas on show, it was the wines made from Nebbiolo from the regions of Barbaresco and Barolo that were the main feature.

Due to the sheer number of wines and the limited time available, my notes are somewhat brief and represent my first impressions. Also, as this was not a masked tasting, my points are best used as a rough guide only.

If only they were a bit cheaper….

Reviewed

Elio Altare – Barbera d’Alba – 2012 (17.2). A lovely blend of ripe, succulent fruit and savoury, earthy, almost tar-like complexity. The palate is long and has surprising depth/density. An excellent wine.

Domenico Clerico – Barbera d’Alba – 2011 (17+). Opens with sweet ripe fruit, but the tannins really kick in on the mid-palate and continue to the close. The fruit is actually quite long and persistent and should become more expressive with a year or two in bottle. If you like a big red, this is a really interesting alternative and worth a look.

Pio Cesare – Barbera d’Alba – Fides – 2011 (17). A lovely blend of sweet fruit and savoury highlights on the nose. The palate is a standout. There is real depth to the high-quality fruit. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. A very good wine that has been expensively made (the oak is more apparent here, but not out of balance).

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Lange – Capisme-E – 2012 (17). I like this wine for its approachability. Savoury, drying and fine, yet with depth and subtle power sitting underneath. Not overly long or complex, but an excellent drink.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Langhe – Il Nebbio – 2011 (17.3). Light and fresh, with textbook tannins. The fruit here gets quite floral and pretty. An excellent pinot alternative.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – 2009 (18). A real step up in terms of both fruit depth, as well as texture, mouth-feel and length. I really like the finish here which is feminine and seductive, yet focussed and fine. Savoury, textured and chewy tannins fit the bill. The fruit really builds and gets quite serious to close. Now, but also in 10+ years

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – 2010 (18). This is tighter and less giving than the 2009. Savoury, structured, long and tight, the tannins get all chewy on the close. Needs time, but will reward.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Bricco Di Tresio – Vendemmia – 2009 (18). Savoury, structured and tight, yet there is a real prettiness in the fruit. The palate is only mid-weight, with very fine tannins and silky oak. The finish is fine and long, the super-fine tannins making this an accessible drink now, but also ensuring longevity.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Bricco Di tresio – Vendemmia – 2010 (18+). Mirrors the straight Barbaresco but this is just so much finer. Again the oak and tannins are silky and fine, caressing the palate, yet allowing the fruit to sing. The mouth-feel is a highlight, though this is structured and tight. Will age well.

Marchesi Di Gresy – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Martinenga -2010 (18.4). This is amazingly feminine, silky and fine! For a variety known for its tannins and power, this is a revelation. That said, the fruit is superb, yet it is wrapped in a cloak of silk gauze that holds it in check, allowing glimpses of potential to show through. Superb!

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ornato – 2009 (18.4). This is clearly different to the wines from Barbaresco. More overt power to the fruit and very fine tannins that slowly build to the point that they close down the wine on the finish. Powerful and impressive, yet still balanced and possessing great length. A wine that can be drunk now with pleasure, but will certainly benefit from 10 – 15 years in the cellar. From the Seralunga sub-district.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ornato – 2010 (18.6). More structure and power, yet this is less accessible than the 2009. Amazing fruit, yet the tight, chewy structure shuts down the palate. Needs 10 years, but would be better with 20. Super stuff!

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2010 (18.3). Closed, dense and structured. Classic Barolo, with the chewy tannins preventing the fruit from showing its best now. Not quite as dense as the Ornato, but will be ready sooner. A complex, multifaceted wine.

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ciabot Mentin – 2010 (18.8). Whilst this is still a savoury wine, the intensity and concentration of the fruit here is amazing. The pristine fruit tends towards the classic rose petal and tar characters. The tannins are prodigious, yet the fruit soaks them up, finishing with souring cherry-like acidity. A spectacular wine!

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Pajana – 2010 (18.5). Really savoury, with tar and earthy notes on the nose. The fruit on the palate is, again, outstanding. The mouth-feel and structure spot on. The fruit is not as dense as the Ciabot Mentin, but this makes it so much more approachable.

Riesling Master Class – December 2014

Reviewed: 10th December 2014

When it comes to great Australian Rieslings, the Clare Valley and Eden Valley regions of South Australia are the spiritual homes. Grossett’s Polish Hill Riesling is considered one of Australia’s great wines and there have been many great wines have been released under the Leo Buring label.

If one wine has to be singled out, then the Leo Buring Leonay would be (for me at least) the most important of all Australian white wines. With a pedigree that spans many decades, these are legendary wines with a tremendous ability to age.

Of late though, the wines from the Great Southern in Western Australia have also been impressive. Many wines are released under the Great Southern moniker, though there are a number of subdistricts in the region. It is the wines from Porongurup and Frankland River that attract the most attention however.

In this tasting, we were lucky enough to taste a variety of excellent wines. The “standard” Leo Burings are excellent wines and represent great value, while the Leonay is a classic wine. It was, however, the wines from the Porongurup region that garnered the most attention. Brilliant wines.

When it comes Australian Riesling, it is clear to me that the Great Southern rivals the Clare and Eden Valley (and select Victorian sites like Drumborg) for sheer quality. One advantage that South Australia has though, is the ability to produce great wines at all price points.

So which is better? Both, but it is clear that the wines from the subdistricts of Polish Hill and Porongurup offer something that is just a little bit special.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.6). Delicate and fine, with hints of lemon. Restrained and taut, the palate is like a tightly coiled spring. The power is there, yet the wine is tight and compact now. This needs time to open up, but will be a joy with oysters now. Just a touch of residual sugar adds perfectly to the balance. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.5). Smells like the Great Southern, but a touch more restrained. There are hints of lanolin, lantana and floral aromas. On the palate the citrus fruit bursts from the wine, leading on to minerals and slate-like characters. The finish is remarkable for the way the acid seamlessly integrates into the fruit, yet leaves a drying texture in the mouth. Very fine and long, this will be a star. (RRP $34).

Leo Buring – Riesling – Leonay DWQ18 – 2013 (18.5). Much more approachable than a lot of wines here, yet the fruit is spectacular. Fine citrus notes over floral characters and a slate-like minerality. The finish is very long and fine. A superstar and one that could be drunk anytime over the next 20 years. From Watervale.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Eden Valley – 2013 (18+). (RRP $20). Silky, tight, long and fine, there is lemony fruit on the nose and the wine slowly builds in the mouth, lingering long after swallowing. With lovely mouth-feel, there is talc like texture and depth to close. A great wine that, again, needs years to perform at its best.

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2014 (18.3). The balance here is the key. Not as overtly concentrated as the Cherubino or Howard Park, but excellent drinking and an interesting alternative to a SSB. At the core of this wine there is pretty fruit with minerals and fine acid. Builds with air, so sure to age. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2013 (18). Complex, minerals and spice, over lovely floral and citrus fruit notes. There is firm acidity, but the wine is very well balanced. There is a touch more phenolics to this wine, adding to its immediate appeal. Will age well. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Mt Barker – 2014 (17.9). (RRP $33). Very fine and restrained on the nose. The palate is tight, yet the quality of the fruit is spectacular and refined. Great length and mouth-feel, the acid and phenolics add to the balance.

Leo Buring –Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5 – 18). (RRP $20). Lacks the sheer depth and balance of the best here, but that is underselling the quality of this wine. There is decent fruit and the acidity/balance is spot on. A touch of phenolic richness that adds body. Sure to age well.

Redman Wines – December 2014

Reviewed: 1st December 2014

The Redman family are pioneers of the Coonawarra region, having been involved in growing grapes and making wine for almost a century.

Redman has stayed true to form and continues to only make red wines from grapes grown on the famous Terra Rossa soils. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz are the only varieties used.

The wines have typically been made in a savoury, food-friendly style and have often aged very well. I have enjoyed several 30 – 40 year old bottles over the years and they have been a delight.

The contrast between the 2012 Cabernet and the other two wines reviewed here was marked. The older wines have settled into their structure and develop secondary characters. With 2012 however, the primary fruit characters were allowed to shine, without diminishing the ability to age. Admittedly, 2012 was an outstanding year for Coonawarra reds.

Whilst the Redman family are trying to stay true to Owen Redman’s philosophy on making wine, they are not standing still. Currently, there is a program of vineyard rejuvenation/replanting underway. Interestingly though, the wines are still bottled with cork.

 

Reviewed

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon /Merlot/Shiraz – The Redman – 2004 (18.3). The bottle age here is obvious, as the fruit has started to open and soften within a complex savoury frame. There are lovely minty cabernet notes on the nose. The palate is still fresh and vibrant, with the fine fruit sitting nicely with the oak. The tannins are still firm, but in combination with the acid, they keep the wine youthful and alive, whilst adding texture. An impressive wine that, whilst enjoyable now, is sure to age well for some time to come. (RRP $70. 200 dozen produced).

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 – (17.9). Impressive nose that has depth and power to the fruit. A classic Coonawarra Cabernet that has menthol and eucalyptus notes over blackberry fruit. The tannins are a little grippy – though this adds to the mouth-feel. A powerful (though elegant) wine that needs a few years to hit its straps. Whilst maintaining a link to the other wines, the impression is that an effort has been made to preserve the fruit characters.(RRP $29).

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). Varietally correct nose, with menthol, eucalypt and herbal notes. This is a savoury wine with bright acidity carrying the finish. Though not an overt blockbuster, the fruit is supple and ripe and the mouth-feel excellent. Good depth on the palate, with excellent length and persistence to close. This is a savoury wine, with leaner fruit characters and balanced tannins and is sure to age well for a decade or more. Will sit well with food today. (RRP $35).

 

 

A P Birks – Wendouree – 2011 and 2012 Vintage Review

27th November 2014

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to taste some of the world’s great wines. Interestingly though, the opportunity to try all of the red wines from Wendouree from two consecutive vintages proved to be one of the most memorable events that I have ever attended.

Wendouree is one of the world’s true cult wines. This reputation is enhanced by the Brady’s noble aim of keeping the wine accessible to their loyal mailing list customers. Rather than sell to the trade and allow profiteering/trading in their wines, they are only available via the mailing list. Whilst not cheap at $45 – $50 per bottle, they become real value when the quality is factored in.

Whilst the winery is perhaps most famous for its Shiraz and Shiraz blends, the Cabernet should not be underestimates.

The Cabernet generally needs more time to show its best. This was, perhaps, best illustrated by the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz that we had with dinner. With 15 years in the bottle, the Cabernet was really hitting its straps and was a delight to drink. Whilst both wines were magnificent, I would possibly put the Cabernet slightly ahead of the Shiraz. Coming from a very good cellar, these wines were in pristine condition and are only just approaching their best (and will hold for many more years).

The Shiraz-based wines are just as age-worthy, however they are generally more approachable now. This proved to be the case with the wines reviewed here.

Regarding the two vintages, 2011 was considered to be a challenging year. This resulted in lighter, more feminine wines. Still age-worthy, but not as dense as the best years.

2012 was universally applauded in South Australia and this was reflected in the wines here. These wines are truly great, and are at least the equal to the top wines from Penfolds, Henschke, Torbrek etc. There was more of the classic Clare Valley mintiness and remarkable poise.

Most remarkable of all was the alcohol content of the wines, with most being between 13.2% and 13.8%. This is in stark contrast to many of the wines produced in Australia that sit at 14.5%+. Here are wines of tremendous power, yet they show elegance, balance and restraint.

The tasting proved to be a unique opportunity to try some spectacular wines.

Reviewed

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2011 (17.5). Seductive and pretty nose, with violet-like fruit characters reminiscent of fine Margeaux. The palate is relatively light and elegant, with mulberry and spice over a touch of minerality. The tannins and acid cut through on the finish ensuring longevity. A pretty wine.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2012 (18). Much greater density than the 2011 on the nose. Whilst this is closed, the potential is obvious. On the palate this is richer and denser, but nowhere near as accessible. The trademark tannins are there, but they sit much more comfortably behind the fruit. The fruit here is outstanding, with depth and density, yet the silky tannins do not hamper the mouth-feel. Clare Valley mintyness is more clearly expressed here.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Malbec – 2011 (17.9). A lovely wine that is fine, elegant, balanced and lithe. Thepretty, perfumed fruit coats the mouth, with the tannins and acid adding life. The tannins are extraordinarily fine and the oak is not apparent. This wine builds power and depth with air. It closes with a touch of forest floor characters and the tannins are almost chewy. This is particularly food friendly.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Malbec – 2012 (18.5). Again, there is pretty, fragrant fruit on the nose that is quite lovely, but the fruit weight is more apparent. Tending to dark fruits with plum, complex spice and earthy highlights. The structure on the palate stands out for the firm tannins which, whilst extraordinarily fine, coat the tongue and close down the fruit. Quite supple, yet the power really builds on the finish and the length is a standout. Even better the next day!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18+). Fine, elegant fruit characters that, like the Cabernet/Malbec, tend towards violet. This continues on the palate with fresh red fruits and a touch of menthol, sitting over silky, fine tannins. The elegance and length here are standouts, making this a lovely drink now. Superb effort!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.7+). Closed, tight and dense, this really just hints at potential at present. The palate is savoury, whilst the fine tannins are plentiful. Outstanding, this has unbelievable depth, yet this is still elegant and balanced. With air, this really came to life, with classic mint, chocolate, and blackcurrant. The acid ensures longevity.

A P Birks – Wendourre – Shiraz/Malbec – 2012 (18.5). This has a beautiful nose redolent of fresh red berries; think fragrant mulberry. The palate is elegant, refined, long and silky, with amazing length and balance. Dusty, chewy tannins hide amongst the awesome fruit. A joy to drink, but sure to age gracefully for many years.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2011 (18). Lighter colour, with less density. On the nose, this shows plum and spice aromas. The palate is elegant, yet there is depth and latent power. The fine tannins are a treat. Whilst this is quite floral, the savoury peppery fruit is a highlight. Balance a feature!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2012 (18.8). Depth and obvious power on the nose, yet the intense fruit is still accessible. The palate is a highlight, with peppery fruit over earthy, forest floor highlights. This wine has the proverbial peacock’s tail effect, with the flavours and texture fanning out across the palate, with near seamless palate transition. A brilliant wine, with stunning balance.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz – 2011 (18.3). The most highly regarded of the Wendouree reds, and with this wine it is easy to see why. The fruit is succulent and ripe, yet elegant and balanced. The palate is seamless, with the tannins playing second fiddle to the superb fruit. The balance is outstanding, with the acidity carrying the finish but it does need time.. The best of the 2011s.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz – 2012 (19.3). A stunning, sublime wine! This is as close to perfection as one could hope for in a red wine. On the nose, this is actually very pretty, with floral red fruits. It is on the palate where the quality is truly expressed. Precise, perfectly ripe fruit slowly gives way to fine tannins, which add a savoury lift. The fruit is pretty, yet serious and closed, the length outstanding. The flavours keep evolving for the longest time. Remarkable for the drinkability, this is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Is this Australia’s greatest red wine???

Watershed Winery – November 2014

Reviewed: 5th November 2014.

Watershed has an interesting background. With the first vineyards planted in 2001, a key part of the strategy was the sale of small vineyard parcels to investors. Over time, the structure has changed to a shareholder model. I was surprised to hear that the total vineyard holdings now exceed 175 hectares (almost 60% white grapes).

Construction of the winery facilities started in 2001, with the most recent work being a storage facility completed in 2009.

Winemaking is headed up by Severine Logan, with three distinct ranges being produced. The entry level is the Shades range, which typically offers good everyday drinking. The next step up is the Senses range which, from my perspective at least, is the sweet spot in the range. The premium range is released under the Awakening range.

The RRP for the Senses range is $30, though the likes of Dan Murphy and Cracker have them significantly cheaper!

Reviewed

Watershed – Sauvignon Blanc – Senses – 2013 (17.2). This wine has a component of fruit that saw barrel ferment/lees work, and this adds depth and complexity to the nose. The fruit tends towards the grassy end of the spectrum, with lovely lemony acidity providing a backbone to carry the fruit. Almond meal and tropical hints fill out the palate. Smart (RRP $30).

Watershed – Viognier – Senses – 2010 (17+). I was surprised to see a five year old white available at the cellar door. Plenty of life and interest here. The initial apricot characters give way to a textural feast on the palate. Drying and savoury, I would prefer a bit more length on the finish, but an interesting and worthwhile wine. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Sangiovese – Senses – 2011 (17.7). This had enough savoury notes up front to grab my attention. Tobacco, spice, dried herbs sit over dense, structured fruit. The drying tannins hark back to the grape’s country of origin. The length and persistence are commendable. This will go a treat with rich food. True to style and worth seeking out. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Shiraz – Senses – 2012 (17 – 17.5). Pepper and spice to the fore here. This is a savoury wine with herbal notes running through the palate, though the fruit is ripe and of decent quality. With air, attractive red fruits start to poke through. This has just been released and needs a little time to settle, as the oak sits a little apart from the fruit on the finish. Quite a serious effort and one that is well suited to food. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Senses – 2011 (18). The contrast between this and the same blend in the Shades range is marked. Serious fruit and winemaking combine to make an excellent wine. Dense and structured, thought the tannins are fine and silky. The finish tightens up, with the drying tannins keeping the fruit in check. An excellent wine that is enjoyable now, but will also age very well. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Zinfandel – Senses – 2012 (18). Cherry fruit. Savoury, with licorice and earthy notes over plump, cherry-like fruit. Chocolate, dried plums and prunes on a palate that is chewy and textured. This is a big wine that demands attention. Excellent length and depth. Unapologetically a big wine that will have a lot of appeal to those looking for a big red. Delicious. (RRP $30).

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – October 2014

Reviewed: October 23

There has been an evolution in the style of (Western) Australian blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon over the last few years. The overt fruit characters have become a little muted, whilst a proportion of barrel fermentation and lees stirring has become an increasingly common occurrence.

This is not to say that oak characters have become an obvious part of the style. In most cases, it is there only to add depth and complexity. In reality, the proportion of wine in a blend that sees oak is quite small. The inclusion of 5% to 20% of barrel fermented wine to the final blend is often enough to have a subtle, yet meaningful impact.

In this tasting, this was exemplified by the wine from Flametree.

Reviewed

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013 (17.7). A very impressive wine that balances high-quality ripe fruit with subtle, though complex winemaking. The palate is long and savoury, with the oak and lees characters adding texture rather than overt flavour. (RRP $25).

Sandalford – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Estate Reserve – 2013 (17.5). I like this wine for the balance of fruit and structure. Grassy and herbaceous, with a degree of depth, this has excellent length and mouth-feel. Quite delicious really. Slightly richer, with a touch of barrel ferment adding complexity.

Madfish – Premium White – 2013 (17). Richer, more viscous, with depth to the fruit. Not overt, but a complex, though neutral wine that is better suited to food. Perhaps a small component of barrel ferment/lees fruit to add texture. Sensible residual sugar adds flesh to the mid palate. (RRP $18).

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Next Of Kin – 2014 (17). Grassy and herbaceous fruit on the nose. Refreshing and light palate, but with decent length and persistence. A lovely summer afternoon wine.

De Bortoli – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Sacred Hill – 2013 (16). Light and fresh, with a degree of viscosity and reasonable length on the finish. Whilst not a great wine, the $7 price tag makes this an option for the budget conscious. (RRP $7).

Voyager Estate – October 2014

Reviewed: 19th October 2014

Although I have been visiting the Margaret River region for more years than I care to admit, up until now, I had not actually eaten at Voyager Estate. This proved to be the perfect excuse to have lunch with the family, as well as taste my way through much of the current range.

The facilities are some of the most impressive in the country. The stately, manicured grounds are a delight to behold, with various groups of people wondering amongst the flowers or just resting on the manicured lawns.

I was shown through to the private tasting room on arrival, where Voyager’s Sommelier Claire Tonon walked me through the range of wines currently on sale. The wines were uniformly impressive, happily occupying the middle ground stylistically. The wines are not over-ripe fruit bombs, but possess enough flesh to ensure that they do not appear astringent.

Travis Lemm has been in charge of the winemaking since 2009 and has been given the opportunity, not only to make the standard range, but also small parcels of excellent “project” wine under the VOC sub-range. The Merlot in particular was a highlight though production of any wine is limited to 100 – 120 dozen and the composition varies from year to year. This range is limited to cellar-door only.

The restaurant, under head chef Nigel Harvey lived up to its reputation. Each dish was carefully crafted and beautifully presented to showcase the fresh ingredients used. We tried a number of dishes (fish, venison, spatchcock and tofu), and all were delicious.

Of note was the fact that there were a number of back vintages available to drink by the glass. I tried the Chardonnay flight with my fish, which contained the 2011, 2007 and 2006. It was fascinating to see how the two older wines compared, given that they had very similar treatment in the winery (12 months in oak, 40% new, partial malo) The 2006 was still quite firm, with fresh acidity reflecting the cooler year, whilst the 2007 was richer and more viscous. Both worthwhile, but in different ways. The 2006 is likely to last for quite a few more years in a good cellar.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are for illustrative purposes only

Reviewed

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013 (17). Delicious, grassy nose with a floral lift. The palate is textured and quite complex, reflecting that a small portion wine used in the blend had barrel fermentation and lees contact. As the wine warms, the tropical fruit notes become more apparent. This is a good each way bet as it will work equally well with, or without food. (RRP $24).

Voyager Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). A blend of 50% Gin Gin clone combined with other French clones that were planted in the mid-2000s. This has a very attractive nose that is redolent of peach/stone fruit. The palate leads with white nectarine and peach flavours and evolves into complex minerals and spice. The balance is exemplary. The high-quality fruit has been very well paired with fine, tight grained oak. Excellent length, depth and persistence round out the wine. Now to five years. (RRP $45).

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2013 (16.8). The most approachable of the whites on the nose, with bright, floral and tropical notes to the fore. The palate is fresh, but has a surprising degree of depth. Whilst this finishes quite dry, the small amount (4gm/l) of residual sugar combined with a textural viscosity enhance the mouth-feel. Deserves to be popular this summer. (RRP $20).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Girt By Sea – 2011 (17.5) Attractive savoury notes over red fruit characters, with a souring, cherry-like backbone. The palate is succulent, but still has a degree of restraint and elegance. The souring acidity adds depth and life to the finish. The oak sits nicely in the background, allowing the fruit to speak. One of the best wines that I have seen under this label and a decent drink now. (RRP $24).

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2011 (18). Aromas of white pepper and spice to the fore on both the nose and palate. The fruit and tannins have been beautifully polished by the oak, making for a lovely drink now, but also allowing for improvement in the cellar. With air the structure builds, the chewy, drying finish allowing this to be paired with a variety of foods. (RRP $38).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18.5). The colour is just starting to turn at the rim, reflecting the extra time that this has had in bottle. The nose has blackcurrant and mulberry components, but there is a lovely savoury component that adds complexity. The palate is still firm, though there is a degree of refinement that is alluring. The finish is deceptively soft, as the power is palpable, lurking beneath the refinement. Long and fine, with dusty, powdery tannins to close, this is a lovely wine that will only get better over the coming decade. (RRP $70).

Voyager Estate – Semillon – VOC – 2013 (17.7). This is the first straight Semillon released by the winery since 2006. In many ways reminiscent of good Chardonnay, with a creamy, complex nose and citrus (orange blossom) notes. The main clue to the variety comes from the lanolin-like characters. The palate has minerals and spice, with complex struck-match characters coming from the winemaker’s inputs. (Cellar Door Only – RRP $38).

Voyager Estate – Merlot – VOC – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.5). The only wine in the range that is from non-estate vines. Lush red fruits to the fore on the nose with floral highlights. That said, there is a lovely savoury lift here. The palate is dusty and taut, but that lovely red fruit character runs right across the mid palate. The length and persistence are a real highlight with firm but refined tannins. Quite a profound wine. (Cellar Door Only – RRP $55).

Flowstone Wines – October 2014

8th October 2014

Stuart Pym may not be a household name, but he has made wine (and beer) that many of us have enjoyed over the years. After a stint at Matilda Bay Brewery making beer, Stuart returned to Margaret River to pursue winemaking as a career.

Stuart spent time at Voyager Estate, before moving on to Devil’s Lair and then Suckfizzle/Stella Bella. Whilst still consulting to Suckfizzle, Stuart has now struck out on his own under the Flowstone label.

The winery is located in Forrest Grove, south of the Margaret River township, with the vineyard planted in 2004 and 2008. Fruit has been sourced from established vineyards around the region, selected for the style of wine that Stuart is trying to craft.

Early results are excellent. The wines tasted here are the second vintage released by the winery and, refreshingly, it is great to see both the whites and reds being released with a little bottle age, at a time when the likes of Penfolds are bringing forward the release of their premium wines.

I found the Chardonnays to be particularly interesting as they have been produced in quite different styles. The standard wine is rich and textured, with immediate appeal, whereas the Queen of the Earth is finer and more restrained. Again, the extra time in bottle is helping here.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Opens with a lovely nose that balances ripe fruit notes with complex, barrel-ferment characters. Complex, worked, textured and chewy on the palate, with struck-match complexity. Very long and powerful, this is a dense and expansive wine that is complemented by the barrel-ferment characters and the inclusion of 20% new oak. (RRP $35).

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Subtle and restrained by comparison to the standard wine. Very fine and long, with underlying power that is tightly controlled. There is clearly very high quality oak here, but this does not dominate the fruit. Citrus characters to close. Will improve with another year or two in bottle. From the wineries “Home Vineyard”, the oak is 50% new and 50% 1 year old. (RRP $55).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). More fruit intensity on the nose compared to the red blend. The palate is textured, chewy and vibrant, with ample tannins coating the finish. Quite a powerful wine that needs a big steak or a few years in the cellar, but does benefit from the extra couple of years in bottle. A serious wine that spent 3 years in oak (100% new). (RRP $75).

 

Chardonnay – New Release – September 2014

Reviewed 21st September 2014

It was great to see the Patterson’s Vineyard name appearing on the label of the 3 Drops Chardonnay. The Patterson family produced excellent wines for years under their own label, before selling the business for personal reasons (situated in the Mt Barker region).

The Wynns Chardonnay is a continuation of the excellent value wines produced under this label (Dan Murphy has the 2012 listed for $12!).

Reviewed

 

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault – Les Chevalieres – 2010 (17.7 – 18.2). Smells like fine burgundy. Minerals and steely fruit, with grapefruit and lemon zest over white peach. Whilst quite restrained, the power of the fruit is impressive, with all of the minerality that you would expect. There is real depth here and great length. The palate fans out finishing with complex, mealy notes and hints of toast. Super wine to drink now. (RRP $60).

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A smart wine, in a chablis-like style. Not overly intense in the mid palate, but has all the minerality and complex struck-match/barrel-ferment characters that you would expect from a quality wine. The length of flavour is a feature. A smart wine to be drunk over the next few years. (RRP $45).

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2013 (17.8). A modern, elegant style that has quite a complex, and quietly powerful nose, showing peach and grapefruit-like characters. Mid-weight, with high quality fruit, this has excellent presence in the mouth. Not overly complex as yet, but well handled in the winery. A serious wine that needs time to show its best. (RRP $46).

Talisman – Chardonnay – Gabrielle – 2012 (17.8). Wow, the nose here is impactful. Peach, stonefruit, grapefruit, minerals, spice, complex flint and struck-match notes. The palate is near seamless and very complex. Everything is in the right place. Yes, this is a powerful, worked wine, yet it retains freshness and poise. Excellent length of flavours with a touch of toasted oak to close.

3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.5+). This is quite tart right now, but will be a very good wine in time. Lively, lemony, long, fresh and complex, the fruit builds depth with air. The fruit for this wine comes from the old Patterson’s Vineyard, which produced some excellent wines in earlier times.

Henri Boillot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2012 (17.4). Tight and restrained, with quite serious fruit that has been well handled. This is a more restrained style, with acidity and subtle oak driving the finish.

Wynns – Chardonnay – 2014 (17.3). Lovely, perfumed nose with scents of orange blossom, over crisp stonefruit and hints of passionfruit. The palate is pure grapefruit, with the youthful acidity providing focus. Linear now, but in time this will fill out. Good Value.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – September 2014

15th September 2014

While Western Australian Cabernets made up the bulk of the wines in this tasting, Coonawarra was not to be outdone, with the Wynns Alex 88 making a real statement.

This is the first single vineyard Wynns that I can remember, and it certainly made me sit up and pay attention.

Reviewed

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alex 88 – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.7). Closed and tightly coiled, the nose only hints at potential at first. Opens to reveal perfumed red fruit with briary blackcurrant and blueberry overtones. On the palate the fruit is quite subdued, but the quality is palpable. The tannins are extraordinarily fine, but do close down the fruit. Give it an hour in the decanter or a decade in the cellar. With air, the supple, ripe fruit comes to the fore, with a savoury twist to close. Outstanding. (RRP $80).

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2011 (18.5). Intense blackcurrant fruit with a touch of cassis. The palate is firm and muscular, with the fruit held in check. That said this is refined and elegant, the extraordinarily fine tannins are prodigious, though not aggressive. Will be a superstar with time in the cellar. (RRP $85).

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Serious fruit quality combined with serious (expensive) winemaking. This is a textural delight. The fruit is relatively suppressed, but will blossom with time. Dense and powerful, yet the supple texture makes this so easy to drink. Elegant! (RRP $62).

A to B – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18). Lovely peppermint and eucapytpus fruit characters, reminiscent of Coonawarra. The palate is initially taut, though the quality fruit opens on the mid palate. There is decent depth and excellent length. Cedar and hints of spice round out the finish on an impressive wine. From Western Australia’s Great Southern Region.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Frank/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot – Olmo’s Reward – 2012 (18). Pretty red fruits abound on both the nose and palate. This is a lovely wine that combines ripe (though elegant) fruit with fine tannins and stylish winemaking. The fruit carries to a finish that is long and supple. This will provide great enjoyment now or any time over the next 10 years. (The new label also looks great). (RRP $45).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.9). Herbal notes over dark, brooding, briary fruit. The palate is dense and almost opulent, with silky tannins and oak. This is a smart wine that will only get better with a few years in the bottle. Well made and a modern expression of Great Southern Cabernet (RRP $37).

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – 2012 (17). A smart wine that values elegance over opulence, suggesting a portion of cooler region fruit was included in the blend. Elegant and refined, with decent length. Not overly complex, but ticks all the boxes. Sure to get even better with a few years in the bottle. (RRP $15, but I picked this up from Kemeny’s for $8).