Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Thinking of visiting Burgundy?

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

2 May 2011

While I do not claim to be an expert on Burgundy or its wines, I can say that I have had a long-held passion for Burgundian pinot noir. After my recent and only visit to Burgundy, I can now say my passion extends to the place also.

Beaune almost bisects the Cote d’Or, with the line separating the Cote de Beaune from the Cote de Nuits a little north of it, and is a great base from which to explore the area. A small town, well set up for wine enthusiasts, it has a myriad of boutique wine shops, traditional restaurants and accommodation options. Beaune itself is a short train ride from Dijon, in turn accessible from Paris (about 2 hours by train).

I chose to stay in a bed and breakfast close to the centre of the town of Beaune, and do not think I could have made a better choice. The rooms offered by Chez Marie were clean and well decked out – at a 4-star hotel standard. Her breakfasts – replete with fantastic coffee, crispy French bread and home made preserves – gave me the sustenance required for the days of wine tasting and touring that followed.

As for a tour operator, I do not think that you can find a better one than Cristina Otel and her partner Christian Knott. Both are winemakers in their own right, Christian hails from Sydney, and both have worked vintages in Margaret River and France. Their company, Taste Burgundy, organizes tours for those with more than a modicum of knowledge about the area and its wines. A third staff member has just joined their team.

They are able to book appointments for you directly with producers, and drive you to them, providing translation while there. In truth, much more is provided – Cristina’s interest is in giving you a complete cultural experience of the area, including visits to the markets and specialty shops, the important Grand Cru vineyard sites, and the Hospices de Beaune (once a charitable almshouse and now a museum, and a must see).

Cristina and Christian’s passion for the wines of Burgundy, their attention to detail, and ability to put both hosts and clients at ease, makes for an in-depth experience.

What then will you find when you visit the local producers? Here, our focus was on small vignerons, and not large negociants. Well, there are those who vinify their pinot noir with a proportion of whole bunches and those who do not. There are those who use a majority of new oak, and others who do not. Some who use battonage for their whites while others who do not. Some who do a cold pre-fermentation maceration. You will find a range of fermentation temperatures and times employed. And all will tell you that what they do depends on the vintage and the quality of the fruit.

So you will encounter many a formula of how to make good red and white Burgundy. However, and most importantly, each producer will have a well thought out philosophy guiding his/her thinking. As an example, Thierry Violot-Guillemard uses 80% new oak for his pinot noir, yet the oak flavours are in no way overwhelming – he uses oak which has been seasoned for a lengthy 4 years. His reasoning? It allows him to leave his wines on its lees without having to rack or disturb the wine – both malolactic fermentation and sur lie are reductive processes – the newer oak results in greater oxidation as a counter, and therefore he does not have to touch the wines. He believes the less the wine is handled the better. The result? Silky powerful pinot noir, stunning at each quality level.

Those who made the greatest impression? Thibault Liger Belair – a young, and up and coming genius, who works biodynamically, for the sheer restrained power and complexity of his reds. Thierry Violot-Guillemard – for his engaging personal story, his warm generosity, and his silky pinot noirs. Blair Pethel (Domaine Dublere) – an American turned Burgundian – for his linear and true wines, especially his whites. And Gérald Cacheux (at Domaine René Cacheux) for his down-to-earth personality and down-to-earth wines.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Mixed Whites – New Release

Reviewed: 15 January 2013

This tasting was an opportunity to look at all the odds and sods that have been sitting on the tasting bench for the last month or two, looking for an appropriate tasting. The first challenge when tasting these blind was to try and work out what I was bench-marking them against.

The wines that have made it to this review all represent excellent current drinking. I also have a suspicion that the Deep Woods verdelho will age very well if someone wants to have a punt.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Verdelho – Verde – 2012 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit here. This is a wholesome and lively wine with plenty of appeal. An excellent stand-alone wine to be served cold on a warm day. (Early picked, whole bunch pressed, 12.5%).

Shingleback – Viognier – John Foolery – 2012 (17). This opens with quite pretty aromatics, minerals and fragrant spice. Apricot comes to the fore on the palate, with lovely clean fruit and cleansing acidity. Long and savoury, this is a smart wine.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2012 (16.8). Pear, almond and spice on the nose. The palate is very neutral and more about texture and mouth-feel rather than overt fruit. The acid really brings this to life on the close and the length is good. This is a very good example of a grigio style and is well suited to food. I do not know how Angove produce wines of this quality for $10!

Yalumba – Viognier – Y Series – 2012 (16.8). Musk, stonefruit and herbal notes on both the nose and palate. This is a really interesting wine, with grassy notes over apricot fruit flavours. Quite powerful in the palate, this has excellent length and real depth, though there is some phenolic grip to close.

De Bortoli – Pinot Gri etc. – La Boheme – Act Three – 2012 (16.6). The nose has quite spicy and bright fruit, with musk, ripe pear and lychee aromas. The palate is quite ripe and textured and finishes quite soft and supple with good acid balance. An easy wine to like.

Lindeman’s – Pinot Grigio – Bin 85 – 2012 (16.4). Subtle spiciness on the nose with musk and nectarine. Very viscous, this has admirable life and vitality, especially given its budget price. The fruit is quite powerful and complemented by plenty of acid. The finish is a touch sharp, but is not unpleasant. Remarkably good for the price, this will be best served quite cold.

Bella Riva – Pinot Grigio/Vermentino – 2012 (16.3). Gentle and soft ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. The touch of phenolic richness adds texture. This is a good mid-afternoon drink.

Domaine Saint Nicholas

Reviewed: 7 November 2012

Thierry Michon has been making wine on the Atlantic coast for many years in vineyards that are on the western edge of the Loire. Recently, the region has been awarded AOC status with the appellation name Fiefs Vendeens. Thierry’s desire to make the best wines possible has seen his vineyards converted to Biodynamic farming practices. The whites have been biodynamic since 1993 and the reds since 1995, so this is obviously not a new fad for the Michons.

The family now have 42 Hectares under vines spread across a 12 km stretch of coast. Whilst schist dominates the soil, there is subtle variation from one vineyard to the next.

A quirk of the Fiefs Vendeens appellation is that all wines carrying the appellation name must be a blend of grape varieties. Thierry bucks this trend and releases straight chenin and pinot based wines. He joked that these wines are blends, for example, of pinot and noir.

So what are the wines like? To my palate, the wines are good to excellent. The highlights for me are the chenin blancs and the pinot noirs. Both these wines spoke of the place from where they were produced as well as the vintage conditions in which the grapes were grown. I was also fascinated to try two wines made from the red grape negrette. This was the first time I had seen this grape and found a lot to like.

You will notice that I have not assigned points to the wines. I did this for two reasons. Firstly this was an open tasting with the winemaker, so it was hard to be totally objective. Secondly, with wines like the negrette, I did not have a benchmark to compare them to. The 2007 Le Poire could be the best negrette in the world, but without trying more, all I can say is that it is a good drink and worth seeking out if you want to try something a bit different.

Thierry was accompanied by his son and daughter who are off to New Zealand to work with Felton Rd for the next six months. They were only in Australia for 24 hours whilst in transit, so I am very grateful that they fought off the jet lag to present their wines.

A special thanks must go to my hosts on the day. Sue Dyson and Roger McShane from Living Wines are the Australian importers of these wines. Please see their website for details of their stockist etc. www.livingwines.com.au

Reviewed

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Groslot Gris – Fiefs Vendeens – Les Clous – 2011. Gold tinged colour. Subtle nose with creamy lees notes. Builds apricot and peach fruit aromas with air. There is honeyed fruit with more of the stonefruit characters on a palate that is quite neutral, yet has excellent length and builds presence in the mouth. The vines for this were planted in 1980, only naturally occurring yeasts are used for the ferment and the wine spends time on lees. An excellent food wine. (50/40/10 blend).

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Gamay – Gammes en May – 2010. A beautiful deep purple colour, though this is still lighter than a cabernet for example. Made like a burgundy rather than using carbonic maceration. There is a lovely perfume on the nose with hints of raspberry and fennel. The palate is fresh, light and interesting, with cherry and spice to close. Quite a neutral wine that could be served slightly cool or at room temperature.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir/Cabernet Franc/Gamay/Negrette – Relefts Rouge – 2011 – Pinot dominant nose that has attractive cherry fruit with good complexity. Quite a meaty wine in both flavour and structure. Spice and pepper really carry the finish, with a touch of grip at the close. Made in large format oak that adds texture rather than flavour. (40/20/20/20 Blend).

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chardonnay – Cuvee Maria – 2005. A light, golden colour that has plenty of life. Superb nose that has similarities with white burgundy, but has some “new-world” ripeness of fruit. Peaches to the fore, with a touch of nectarine-like structure, with flint, spice and nutty (bitter almond) complexity to close. Excellent length and persistence, this full-bodied wine is still very youthful. The wine spends 18 months in older oak. A wine to be enjoyed on its own or with lighter foods.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Negrette – Le Poire – 2008. The first Negrette that I have tried. An interesting and compelling nose, showing an amalgam of cherry, plum and spice. Firm in the mouth, the fruit is lighter bodied and supple. With good length and texture, this is another wine that would work best with food.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Negrette – Le Poire – 2007. Denser fruit on the nose compared to the 2008. The colour is also more purple tinged and darker. More earthy fruit characters, with hints of truffle, forest floor and even a hint of leather. Rich and dense fruit on the front palate with souring acidity to close. I would really like to see this again in 5 years.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2006. Very dense colour that Thierry puts down to the small grapes, soil type (Schist) and the use of copper and nettles in the vineyards as part of the biodynamic management. This is an interesting wine in that it is a blend of new and old-world characters. Dense and earthy, yet there is a core of lovely ripe fruit aromas. In the mouth, there is sour cherry and earth over red fruits. You can almost taste the salty ocean tang on the minerally finish. The length is excellent and the mouth-feel spot on. The wine was macerated on skins for 2-3 weeks though apparently, the colour is set in as little as three days.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2005. Interestingly, this has a fresher red colour compared to the 2006. Earthier overtones on the nose and palate with excellent length and aftertaste. The fruit really builds in the mouth, with the savoury, earthy characters running right through to the finish.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2004. Starting to show hints of age on the colour. This is relatively subdued on the palate with herbal fruit characters reflecting the cooler vintage conditions. The wine has life and vitality, with lovely line on the palate. Leaner and more acidic, this will carry food well.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – Plante Gate – 2006. I like this a lot. The fruit is vibrant, with cherry, spice and delicate perfume over quality oak highlights. (0.5 hectare total planting). The oak and bright fruit make this very youthful indeed. There is also savoury nuances over the red fruits (berries). There is souring acid to close which really carries the palate. The assembled tasters thought that this had some similarity to Chianti on the nose. Like the other pinots here, this sees 100% new oak. In many ways, this is my favourite of the pinots, though the 04 La Grande Piece is perhaps better drinking today.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2008. The lovely, complex honeyed fruit on the nose suits the golden colour very well. Rich, honeyed and mouth-filling, the palate has to be tried to be believed. Long and viscous, the merest hint of residual sugar (3gm/l) complements this wine beautifully. With lovely minerals and spice on the finish, this is a meal in itself. A superb wine that is very long and complex. The wine spends 18 months in 600 litre oak barrels prior to bottling.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2007. More minerals and spice than the 2008. Has more nutty (cashew nut) type aromas and flavours than the honeyed 2008. The line and length belie the higher alcohol. The acid is holding the palate together well. A more elegant style, that is lovely drinking, but less compelling than the 08. At over 14% alcohol, this is a lot riper than the others, but in no way hot or overblown.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2006. Darker colour than the 07 and more developed on the nose. Reserved and subdued, this would be a great match with food. The palate is long and textured, this wine relying on structure and minerality to make its presence felt, while the lemony fruit adds vibrancy. An interesting contrast.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Soleil de Chine – 2007. Deep golden colour, with apricot and honey on the nose. Nutty complexity on a palate that is long, gently sweet (15gm/l) and finishes with refreshing acidity. A subtle, supple wine.

Aged White Wines

Whites – Mixed

Reviewed: 10 February 2011

With Summer in full swing, our group embarked on a tasting of quality whites that were a few years old. We ended up with an eclectic selection of (very) high quality wines.

Reviewed

Bruno Sorg – Riesling – Pfersigberg – Grand Cru – 2003 (17.5). Lovely oily texture, a hint of residual sugar and fresh acid makes for a lovely wine. Has a hint of floral notes and the very creamy, high quality oak rounds out the finish. Smart, seamless and beautifully crafted. From Alsace.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.3). Perfectly ripe fruit on the nose with pineapple overtones. The oak is evident on the palate, though there are some tropical fruit notes underneath. Opens with air, developing butterscotch and stonefruit. Gets better and will settle further with age.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2004 (17.8). Seamless and beautifully balanced, this is a superb wine. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on and the finish is near seamless. The quality oak merely caresses the finish on the close and the length is driven by the elegant fruit.

Leasingham – Riesling – Classic Clare – 2005 (17.7). Lovely riesling that is fresh, lively, floral, vibrant, seamless, long and intense. This is a very fine wine of real class. Excellent length. Is showing the first signs of age, but is still very youthful.

Sonoma Cutrer – Chardonnay – Russian River Ranchs – 2008 (17.8). Another superb wine. This is a richer style with plenty of quality winemaking inputs. Think creamy oak, lees stirring and (partial?) malo-lactic fermentation. Again, the mendoza clone is evident, but the pineapple fruit characters are well handled. There are plenty of stonefruit notes and almond to close.

Domain Emilan Gillet – Chardonnay – Quintaine – Vire-Clesse – 2002 (18.2). Very interesting wine. Superb palate with great length. It is the exhilarating acid that makes the finish so memorable. Lemon brullee, texture and spice on a palate that builds and evolves. Excellent chablis with minerals to burn. At its peak.

Domaine Chandon De-Brialles – Chardonnay – Corton – Grand Cru – 2005 (18). Very creamy nose, this wine is a highlight. Intense and powerful, there is still a degree of restraint. Superb fruit, the wine really builds and is classically structured. The minerality on the palate is superb.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 06A – 2006 (17.5+). Wow. Amazing wine. Young and fresh, the high quality fruit and oak are evident, but not integrated. Has a long future, but needs five to ten years to peak.

Alain Gautheron – Chardonnay – Chablis – Vaucaupin – 1er Cru – 2005 (18.3). A superb wine here. Very tight and fresh, this is a seamless version of fine burgundy. Refined, this is delicate and very fine. Needs years, but enjoyable now. Amazing Chablis.

Rene Lequin-Colin – Chardonnay – Batard-Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2002 (18). Honeyed, long and rich, this is a developed but delightful wine of class and pedigree.

Heidi Schrock – Welsch Riesling/Pinot Gri/Pinot Blanc/Chardonnay – Ruster Ausbruch – 2005 (18.5). Apricot to the fore on the nose, this is really rich and enticing. Wow, immensely intense, yet beautifully balanced and refined. Botrytis to the fore, but the balance is special. Superb!

Guiraut – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Saturnes – 1er Cru – 1997 (18). Very cold. Pungent and raisin-like on the nose, this is a less mainstream and less sweet style that is refreshing yet spicy. As it warms, this opens to show viscosity and texture. Shows lots of almond meal and cashew with air. Delicious.

Le Mont – Chenin Blanc – Vouvray – Molleux – 1997 (17.5). Bread dough and a touch of ferment notes. Shines on the palate with great line and length. This is a very precise wine, that is aged and long. Complex, this really builds in the mouth. Drying finish, this is a delicate wine that shows spice to close. Won’t appeal to everyone, but worth trying.

Castagnia – Viognier – Aqua Santa – NV (17.7). Complex and developed, this is a very intense wine.

New Release – Mixed Whites

Reviewed: 2 January 2011

This was a fascinating tasting with a large variety of grapes and styles. All of the reviewed wines represent an interesting alternative to the mainstream wines that dominate the market.

The highlight for the panel was the three wines from Lillypilly. These are high quality desert wines that possess a degree of lightness and balance that makes them a delight to drink.

Reviewed

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – 2008 (18.2). Restrained on the nose, this is very youthful and has remarkable lavender aromas. There is, again, that lovely balance of apricot and orange, with a freshness that makes this a delight to drink. Superb length and mouth-feel with the finish fanning out and evolving for more than a minute. Excellent wine!

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – Family Reserve – 2002 (18). Richer colour suggesting more bottle age. A bigger, richer wine with more complexity and greater length. The palate is viscous and mouth-coating, with lovely acidity preventing the finish from becoming cloying. Apricot jam and marmalade fruit to close. A lovely aged wine. (This is still available from the winery).

Lillypilly – Noble Harvest – 2006 (17.5). Sweet ripe apricots to the fore, with complex orange marmalade notes. Perfumed, this has a lightness the belies the style. Fresh and balanced, the moderate sweetness is balanced by fresh acidity. Has a lovely honeyed finish of some length. Not as much intensity as the 2008, but a lovely drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Brookdale – 2011 (17). Straw and lemon on a reserved and restrained nose, this has lovely poise and balance. Needs a few years to open up and show its fruit.

Yering Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – MVR – 2009 (17). Complex nose with apricot, orange peel, honey and cashew nut. Very complex, yet refined palate that is long and has well judged phenolics and viscosity. The best wine here from a textural component and European in style. Drink now.

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2011 (16.8). This wine took me by surprise. Very neutral nose initially, this became quite floral with air. The palate has both depth and breadth. Racy acidity adds to the package and the touch of sweetness fleshes out the finish.

Redbank – Garganega – 2010 (16.7). Another neutral wine that has plenty of life on the palate. Again, it is the fresh acidity that carries the palate. Good length and mouth-feel too. Has some character.

De Bortoli – Verdelho – “Deen” Vat 6 – 2010 (16.5). Perfume, pear skin, apricot, orange peel and musk. Lovely palate that combines crisp acidity with almond meal and fresh fruit. Good length, the hint of residual sugar adds balance and makes this a great drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Lost Block – 2011 (16.5). More zest and fruit up front compared to the Brookdale. The palate has lovely, lemony fruit. Quite textured, this has excellent fruit weight and length. Good value alternative to a sauvignon blanc.

Yalumba – Vermentino – The Y Series – 2011 (16.5). This is an interesting wine, with aromatic qualities similar to the Alsatian varieties. The palate is quite neutral, but with excellent acidity and good length. Mouth-watering, so would suit food well. Another good value wine from Yalumba.

Ulacia – Zuri/Beltza – 2010 (16). I was surprised to see this had frizzante when poured. Fresh and floral, this has none of the sweetness I was initially expecting. Bone dry, the palate is very drying and long. Indigenous Spanish white grapes. One to confuse your wine friends with.

New Release Whites

5 January 2010

Through the course of a year we taste hundreds of wines from each of the mainstream varieties (shiraz, chardonnay etc). This allows the panel to look at a single variety at most tastings. This is an acid test, as each wine is being compared against all others in the line up. Over the year, we receive wines from less common varieties as well. This tasting allowed us to look through a range of wines.

The surprise for me was the Moondah Brook verdelho. In the late 1990s through to the early 2000s, these wines were of high quality and delivered extra-ordinary value. It was apparent that Houghton was including a large proportion of premium South-West fruit in the blends. Whilst I am yet to see the latest red wines, the verdelho was a real treat.

On a different note, the Grossett Off-Dry riesling was a revelation. This has the purity of fruit typical of the Watervale region in the Clare Valley, but possessed a drinkability courtesy of the residual sugar that was outstanding. In one vintage, this has surely become the benchmark for the style in Australia. (Mr Grossett has made several previous vintages of this style, but this is the first that he has released under the Grossett label.

Finally, for a cheap sparkling wine, the Griffith Park is a good quaff.

Reviewed

Grossett – Riesling – Off Dry – 2010 (18.4). Subtler than the other two rieslings, this is much more akin to a dry riesling in style, with some tropical fruit notes and lemon sherbet. The intensity of fruit on the palate is outstanding and the length is incredible. The finish is pure lime juice, with the residual sugar playing the perfect foil to the acidity. Give it time. A joy to drink!

Houghton – White Classic – 2004 (17.8). Lemony fruit dominates the nose. The aromas are complex, with a touch of match strike and flint (I actually thought there were some barrel ferment characters). The palate manages to remain balanced and textured with quite an elegant finish. The age was indicated by some honey and toastiness to close. Definitely worth a try.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Bimbimbi – 2010 (17.5). Intense precise nose, with floral fruit notes. Musk and a touch of lime. Piercing fruit on the palate, but without the ultimate depth of the Grossett. Extremely long and fine, the sugar balances the acid well. Lime fruit to close. Not mainstream.

Momo – Pinot Gris (17.4). Floral and sherbet-like on the nose. There is also a touch of apricot nectar on a ripe nose. Mouth-filling and textured, this has excellent intensity and quality fruit. The length is a highlight as are the stone fruit characters. Fantastic texture and aromatics.

Moondah Brook – Verdelho – 2009 (17). Fresh and zesty nose. Bright tropical fruit on the palate, with a touch of grassiness. The line and length are both very good and the crisp acid makes for very fine summer drinking.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2009 (17+). Floral notes and stone fruit on the nose with a touch of wine-making inputs. The palate has marmalade and a touch of viscosity. Peachy fruit and finely textured oak on the close. Two days later, this was a joy to drink!

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2010 (17). Perfumed and floral, this is quite pristine and fresh. There is really juicy fruit with some tropical notes developing on the finish. Reasonable length and a touch of residual sugar make for an excellent summer drink. (This got better with a day in the bottle).

Wild Rock – Pinot Gris – Sur Lie – 2009 (16.8). Floral and a touch oily on the nose. The palate is rich, round and textured. There is a touch of phenolics on the finish that adds complexity. Good length, but not particularly intense fruit.

Griffith Park – Brut – NV (16.7). Sweet ripe fruit on the nose with a hint of yeasty notes. Clean and fresh, the palate has an appropriate level of sugar sweetness to fill out the mid-palate. A persistent finish that is round and generous makes this a perfect summer quaff. Good value.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.4). Quite lifted and aromatic. There is a touch of apricot kernel and almond. The palate is oily, and the phenolics add grip to the finish. Serve cold.

Alkoomi – Riesling – Late Harvest – 2010 (16.8). Germanic in the way the complex citrus notes have a core of minerals running through the nose. Sweeter than the first, this is rich, viscous and balanced with a touch of talc on the close. There is not quite enough acid to balance the sweetness, and I would like a touch more fruit intensity.

New Release Mixed Whites

During the year we receive dozens of wines from each of the mainstream varieties. This makes it easy to put together a line up of 15 – 20 wines made from a single grape or in a similar style. We also receive a wide variety of wines that are not mainstream in Australia. Today’s tasting provided an opportunity to look through a range of wines made from less common grapes.

The wines from Millbrook really caught my attention. Along with Yalumba, Millbrook is producing some of the best examples of a grape that was made famous in the northern Rhone Valley. Small amounts of viognier have been grown alongside the shiraz in Cote Rotie. Often this would be picked and fermented with the shiraz. This has been embraced by the Australian wine industry and there are now hundreds of shiraz/viognier blends on the market.

If you would like to try a viognier from the Rhone, look for wines labelled Condrieau. These can be powerful wines and this was certainly reflected in the wines from Millbrook.

Finally, a word on the savagnin from Banrock Station. This is the first wine the panel has come across made from this obscure French white grape. This grape has an interesting story. The vines come from the CSIRO, but were sold as albarino (Spanish Grape). In the last few years there have been quite a few albarinos made and sold in Australia from these vines. DNA testing showed that the vines were actually savagnin.

Whilst there has been much debate in the industry as to how to manage the situation, Max Allen (Weekend Australian Magazine) quite rightly points out that the wines must be labelled as savignin, and we should embrace the floral/savoury characteristics that these wines are capable of producing.

Reviewed

Millbrook – Viognier – 2008 (18). Richer colour. Some apricot and musk on the nose, with complex lees and barrel ferment characters. The palate is powerful, complex, honeyed and with apricot stone fruit. The mouth-feel is viscous and long and the finish has dried apricots and bitter almond to close. Good value at $20 and an interesting alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2008 (17.8+). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose with some apricot and white fleshed peach and orange peel. Long and viscous on the palate but not as forward as the Perth Hills Wine. Some grippy, nutty characters to close with subtle bitter almond adding freshness. A very classy wine. Will evolve over 2-3 years and is a wine that everyone should try.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Reserve – 2006 (17.4). Oak characters to open on the nose with grassy fruit. The palate initially shows the effect of the oak treatment, followed by lemony fruit. The fruit really builds intensity and the finish is long, fine, restrained and quite lovely. Needs another year to integrate. Acidity keeps things fresh. Worth a try as an interesting alternative to a chardonnay.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2008 (16.8). Quite simple to start with some caramel notes on the nose. The palate has lemon with a really creamy texture. The finish is not as long as some, but a credible effort (I do not really understand semillon that well).

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2008 (16.6). Unusual “cat’s pee” aroma. Grassy with quite green fruit characters. The palate is bright, lean, long and shows barrel ferment characters. Refreshing, but may need a few years to settle. At 11% alcohol this must have been picked quite early (as is the case with many Hunter Valley semillons).

Banrock Station – Savagnin – Mediterranean Collection – 2009 (16.5). Lime juice, almost riesling – like. Lime cordial on the palate and very viscous mouth – feel. Well made and interesting. Try with Chinese food.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2009 (16.5). A touch more forward than the 2008, this has lovely fruit. The palate is more viscous and has good acid. Lacks intensity on the finish though.

Optimiste – Pinot Gris – 2009 (16.5). Racy and steely nose showing lemon and a hint of brulee. This is quite oily/viscous in the mouth, with a powerful finish showing some barrel ferment characters. Not typical but satisfying.

Drakesbrook – Viognier – 2009 (16.4). Light and fresh, but not complex. Has hints of lifted fruit. The palate is clean, fresh and vibrant, but in a simple un-oaked style. Good quaffing.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2008 (16). Clean and fresh with a touch of passionfruit. The palate is bright, zesty, and crisp. Finishes with fresh acid. Pleasant drinking and has some character.

Last Sunday Tasting Group

31 January 2010

Aromatic White Wines

As many of you know, this tasting group is the highlight of my tasting life. Good friends and fantastic wines – what could be better? This tasting was made even more special by the temporary return of Brendan Jansen from his Italian hideaway.

Having been set a theme of Aromatic White Wine by Brendan, I had to stop and think – what is an aromatic white? The consensus amongst the group was that everything other than chardonnay and semillon would be OK.

Having a tasting with mainly European wine proved a little challenging, as they have different characteristics and it takes a while for my palate to adjust. Interestingly, the wines were more fragile than I would have expected with most having fallen over by the next day. Perhaps this reflects the wine-making styles and is only a problem if you do not finish the bottle.

Tasted

Max Ferd. Richter – Riesling – Kabinett – Braunberger Juffer – 2000 (18.5). Starts dry and fresh, but has lovely oily fruit and developed characters. The palate has gorgeous Germanic riesling fruit that is super long and focused. The residual sugar is perfectly matched to the lovely acid. Great mouth feel. Reflects the cabinet style well.

Conrail – Riesling – 2009 (18). Very aromatic with lovely citrus overtones. Whilst still quite closed, there is a stunning floral attack on the palate with lemony acid on a long finish. Very morish.

Palacio De Fefinanes – Albarino De Fefinanes – 2007 (18). Almond, apricot, grapefruit and peaches too. The palate is oily and textured with lovely mouth feel. Silky and very long. A lovely wine and surprisingly delicate.

Felton Road – Riesling – 2006 (17.8). A touch more austere to start with compared to the Richter, but the palate is an explosion of ripe fruit with fresh and vibrant acid nicely balanced. Very long, fresh and delicious drinking. A late picked style.

Palacio De Fefinanes – Albarino De Fefinanes – 2008 (17.7). Lemon butter and rind. Long and textured with excellent mouth feel. really builds in the mouth. From Rias Baixas in Spain.

Paul Zinck – Gewertztraminer – Eichberg Grand Cru – 2006 (17.7). Musk and spice lead the attack on the nose. with lychees and almond meal. The palate is incredibly oily and viscous with apricot and lychees. The residual sugar is well balanced by fresh acidity.

Domane Wachau – Riesling – Federspiel – Bruck – 2001 (17.5). Better balance and structure than the 1999, and with less obvious botrytis. Some toast and oiliness on a developed nose. The palate is long, fine and oily, with a touch of spritz. A good drink.

Jean Lionnet – Cotes du Rhone Blanc – Saint Per ay – 2002 (17.5). Creamy and elegant with well judged lees and malo characters. The palate has lovely apricot fruit and the creamy oak is well integrated. Despite all this, the long palate is quite lean, yet spicy. An unusual wine, but great drinking.

De Bortoli – Viognier – 2006 (17). I was not aware that De Bortoli released a viognier. A good effort, with some varietal character.

Pieropan – Soave – 2008 (17). Soave is a blend of indigenous white grapes, and this showed well. Lifted ripe citrus nose, with some herbal characters. The palate has lemon sorbet and lychees. The finish is long, but angular and drying. A challenging wine that is worth trying.

Clonakilla – Riesling – 2007 (16.8). Starts off dry and austere, but has a touch of sherbet, spritz and spice on the palate. The austerity continues through to the end of the palate. Challenging style.

Dry River – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.9). More pungent with passionfruit fruit. The palate has sweet fruit and a good dose of residual sugar. Long, spicy fragrant and textured. Good mouthfeel too. Quite fragile, so drink soon.

Domane Wachau – Riesling – Federspiel – Bruck – Viesslinger Ried – 1999 (16.5). Honey and orange peel to start from some botrytis influence. Very long with good acidity. This is viscous and oily. (Not the best bottle I have tried).

New Release Whites

21 January 2010

The change to screw cap closures on wines has been something that I have publicly embraced as a great compromise for wine lovers. Being free of all of the imperfections of cork is what it is all about. Whilst the screw cap is inert and reliable, it is not fool-proof. One important difference that I have noted is that wines stay fresher for longer. This impacts on both wines that you buy to age and wines that are best drunk young.

With wines designed for early consumption, like most of the wines in this tasting, the increased freshness has had another consequence that we need to bear in mind. By being slower to develop, they appear to take a little longer in bottle to show there best.

Years ago, I would not dream of keeping a sauvignon blanc for more than a year, but with many of the wines in this tasting, they were actually a little closed and tight. Several looked even better the next day with a bit of airing. I am not suggesting that you start ageing these styles, but it may be worth giving them a bit of air if you find that they do not meet your expectations. Some of the lightly oaked styles can easily take 2-3 years in the cellar.

So to the wines. Once again, the 2009 Clairault sauvignon blanc showed well. This is a lovely drink. Forester also seem to be kicking some goals with their sauvignon. I continue to be impressed with the wines from Deviation Road from the Adelaide hills. I must try and visit them at some stage this year.

This was meant to be a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc tasting, but unfortunately a few pinot gris/grigio wine got mixed up.

Tasted

Deviation Road – Pinot Gris – 2009 (17.5+). Clean and fresh smelling. There is sherbet, musk, pineapple and a touch of cinnamon. Evolves on the palate and has excellent mouth feel and texture. Persistent and balanced. Good acidity to close. (I had a glass with salmon the next night and it was excellent.)

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! More overt and obvious than some, there is pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passionfruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment but the fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months. There might be a touch of residual sugar, but it is all the better for it.

Forester – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Some zesty fruit on this. Ripe, concentrated passionfruit and tropical fruit with pineapple acid. Some winemaker inputs. Textured palate with good mouth feel. Lemony acid to close. Quite a big wine.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – 2009 (17). Pungent sauvignon characters with lantana and a touch of vanilla. Crème brulle on the creamy palate. Very good fruit and wine making. Fine close.

Hamlin Bay – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Lifted, grassy fruit with some passionfruit and musk. The palate is long, fresh and surprisingly viscous. Passionfruit to close. The finish is closed but well balanced.

Wine By Brad – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.8). Focused and precise nose. Quite fragrant, complex and balanced,with fresh acidity to keep the finish alive. Good summer drinking

Millbrook – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – Barking Owl – 2009 (16.6). Creamy nose, with some interesting fruit. Sweet fruit but without great excitement. Good current drinking.

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (16.5+). A different style to the WA and NZ wines. Starts off zesty and tight. The palate is powerful, long, focused but closed. Will do better with 6 months in the bottle.

Forester – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). This is closed and tight. This is quite a serious wine with good viscosity/mouth-feel and some worked wine making inputs. Will be better in a few months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). Sweet and ripe fruit on the nose, this is lacking some definition at present. A crowd pleasing style that builds intensity. Will be better in a few months.

Preveli – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5). More of the grassy characters here. Some musk and sherbet too. The palate is racy, but the acid is a little firm now.

Sidewood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.4). A complex and funky wine with caramel on the close. Unusual.

Arlewood – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2006 (16). Barrel ferment and lees characters. Some grassy characters. This smells expensive. Obvious oak characters dominate the palate. More like an oaked semillon. Will the fruit break free?

Banrock Station – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (16). Riper nose with some candy. Simple but easy drinking. Caramel to close.

Clairault – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16). Good drinking.

Two Tracks – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16). Musk and sherbet. The palate is complex and worked. Whilst rich and generous, the finish is less precise than some.

Champagne

Wine and Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed 28th March 2013.

I need to start this article with a confession: I love Champagne. The real stuff from France, rather than just any wine with bubbles. So I was very pleased to arrange a tasting of predominantly non-vintage Champagne for the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia.

I used this tasting as an opportunity to explore how the plethora of lesser known brands that are making their way to Australia compare to the Grand Marques. Over the last year or two, the price of champagne has steadily decreased. Part of this is due to the overhang of stock in markets that have diminished in the GFC. This includes the likes of Hong Kong and Singapore.

This excess stock is being bought in bulk and shipped to Australia by some of the big retailers (parallel importing) and being sold at a discount to that which the official importer is sellingit for. There remains a question over the quality of the wines sourced from Asia and beyond, as there is no guarantee on storage conditions etc. There is also no way of telling how old the stock is.

There is no doubt in my mind that a champagne that spends two years in a un-refrigerated warehouse in Hong Kong is going to taste different to one that arrived direct from France in a refrigerated container. This issue of provenance only really applies to the Grand Marques in general.

Given that all the wines for this tasting were purchased in the week before the tasting, I noted that a couple of the wines were more advanced than I would have expected. Not that they were in any way bad, just more developed than I would have expected straight from the producer. As I tend to age my NV champagnes for a year or two anyway, perhaps this is not such a bad thing, but the consumer has a right to consistency.

There were several standout wines. From a value perspective, the Jean Richecourt and Pol Gessener were absolute bargains. Excellent quality at around $30 on special.

The Lanson Gold Label highlights the quality of the 2002 vintage and is tremendous value. (I already have some in my cellar). The wine of the night however, was the Grand Cellier D’Or by Vilmart & Cie. A superb wine at any price!

Below is a cross-section of wines that I consider to be most noteworthy, focussing on the less known brands.

Reviewed

Vilmart & Cie – Grand Cellier D’Or – Champagne – 2007 (18.5+). My tasting notes for this wine were brief but expressive. Fresh, vibrant, taut, long, linear, balanced, fine and refreshing. Superb length and great presence. This is a spectacular wine that is great drinking now, but will also drink superbly for 5 years or more. Try Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

Bollinger – Champagne – NV (18 – 18.5). A richer style, but a fresh and vibrant wine that has plenty of life and joy. The nose has lemony, fresh, fine and elegant fruit. The palate is powerful, showing autolysis and dough like characters, though there is a degree of finesse and elegance. The finish is very long and remains fine right to the close. A favourite of James Bond and a favourite of mine too!

Lanson – Gold Label – Champagne – 2002 (18 – 18.5). Opens with delicate, floral fruit on the nose. Again, the acidity is a feature. Great line and length with lovely mouth-feel, balance and texture. There are stone fruit characters and subtle spice. Complete wine of great charm. It is amazing that a wine of this quality from such a good year is still available on the market for under $55. I already have some in my cellar. (Available from Dan Murphy).

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils – Paradox – Champagne – 2004 (18). Richer and more developed than the Vilmart, but still with life and balance. The palate has good penetration and attack and great mouth-feel. Everything a good champagne should be. Drink now. (Available from Vintage Cellars at $55).

Jean Richecourt – Champagne – NV (18). Wow, the group really liked this wine! A very delicate nose that shows hints of toast and brioche. The palate is fresh and taut, with tight minerality and great penetration. The dosage has been perfectly matched to the youthful fruit and acid. I like the persistence and the way the wine cuts through the palate to show hints of stonefruit and brioche. Stunning value at under $35 from Vintage Cellars!

Canard-Duchene – Cuvee Leonie – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). I like this for its balance and life. There are plenty of yeasty/leesy notes, with some bottle age evident. A lively, moderately complex wine that is very easy to drink. ($60 from La Vigna in Mt Lawley).

Drappier – Signature – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – NV (17.5 – 18). Balance, delicacy, finesse, this has everything you need in a champagne. Excellent acidity, length and penetration on the palate, with the powerful chardonnay fruit making this a complete wine. Excellent value from the team at Vintage Cellars.

Moet et Chandon – Champagne – NV (17.5-18). A more youthful wine with less obvious lees characters. Opens with lovely lemony fruit on both the nose and the palate. I like the acidity on this which combines with moderate dosage to make the finish quite drying. The palate has excellent length and intensity and, while there are not a lot of autolysis characters, the fresh style makes an excellent aperitif. It is great to see the quality from this house back up where it belongs.

Pol Gessener – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). Fresh, taut and racy, but the acid is a little bright just now. An excellent wine that would benefit from 6 months in the bottle to bring out its best. Great value at under $35 from Dan Murphy.

Pol Roger – Champagne – NV (17.5 – 18). Developed colour and a degree of richness on the nose. Creamy, taut, lemony, but with an underlying richness that comes from time in bottle. A gentle wine with excellent length and a touch of minerals.

Duperrey – Champagne – NV (17-17.5). Lighter, fresher, but still with excellent autolysis and aged characters. The balance here is the key. The palate has lemon, stone fruit, excellent acidity and good penetration. A very good wine, though the dosage is a touch more obvious.