Category Archives: Chardonnay – Wine Reviews

Red and White Burgundy

New Release

Reviewed: 23 November 2011

 

Some smart young wines on show here. For a list of stockists, contact Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveat applies: My points are an indication only.

Reviewed

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2009 (16.5). Appealing mineral and flint, with a little honey. Quite developed, with peachy fruit. Not overly long or complex, but satisfying.

Philippe Chavy – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Lovely nose with stonefruit that is ripe yet focussed. Impressive wine. There are hints of pineapple and smoky match strike, with fresh fruit to close. Quite linear in the palate, this is an enjoyable wine with stonefruit on a creamy finish.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chablis – 1er Cru – Cote de Lechet – 2008 (18). Wow, lovely nose. This really sucks you in. Minerals to the fore, with flint, match strike and wet pebble. The density of fruit here is remarkable. Long and fine, this has really pure fruit. Still quite young and closed, there is real potential here. A fine wine and classic Chablis.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2009 (17.5). More honey here, peach and apricot with subtle spice. Quite linear and precise, this is very youthful. Not as generous as some, but a lovely example. A blend of sub-regions.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de la Velle – 2007 (17.5). Superb nose. Creamy, with stonefruit. Lovely oak and lees integration. Superb fruit with marvellous texture. The finish falls away but will build with time. Pineapple develops on the close.

Philippe Chavy – Meursault – 1er Cru – Les Charmes – 2009 (18.5). Very closed. The palate is outstanding. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on. Very fine and creamy, the palate is almost seamless. Give it 5 years, but it will be superb.

Jean Marc Millot – Cote de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2009 (17). Lovely nose of ripe cherry and hints of strawberry. Vibrant palate of strawberry and spice. A degree of complexity on a fruit driven finish. Reasonable mouth-feel and good length.

Philippe Livera – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17). More complexity to the nose and palate. This has silky fruit. Not that dense, though the finish is fine and elegant.

Humbert Freres – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenot – 2009 (17.5). Dense, but very closed. Cherry, tar and spice all vie for attention on the palate. This has quite muscular tannins, but they are ripe and fine. Good oak and very good finish. Smart wine that will only get better!

Jean Marc Millot – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru Les Suchots – 2009 (18.2). Seductive, silky and mouth-filling. Spice, cedar, tar and cherry the main flavours. Everything there, but needs time to show its best. Remarkable length and persistence.

Jean Marc Millot – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18+). Pure seduction up front, though the very fine tannins build and shut down the finish. Will be a star, but I would like to see it in a year to see how it has come together.

Burgundy 2008

Boot-Full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

March 2011

One of the most important events on the calendar of the Institute of Masters of Wine is the Annual Burgundy tasting. This year, the 2008 vintage was featured, and the tasting was organised in association with Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition. I was lucky enough to be able to attend.

2008 was a difficult year in Burgundy, and has been christened “the miracle vintage”. The miracle to which they refer is the burst of sunshine the region experienced, accompanied by fresh (and, importantly, drying) northerly winds from the second week of September to the beginning of October.

The cool and humid start to spring was a harbinger of things to come. The whole growing season was wet and cool, with the crop beset by coulure climatique (physiological failure of fruit set) and millerandage (variation in berry size). 2007 was also a cool and wet vintage, but by the end of June, the 2008 vintage was further than three weeks behind where the 2007 grapes were at the same time.

Rot and mildew were a constant threat (those growing organically or biodynamically were particularly challenged), and called for attentive vineyard management. The period of sunshine helped greatly to keep these maladies at bay in the weeks before harvest, but though the sun shone, it was cool, especially at night. Thus the wind concentrated the sugar in the grapes, but full physiological ripeness was difficult to achieve.

The other key to producing good wines in this vintage (other than obsessional vineyard practices) was strict and often laborious sorting. I have heard that some producers rejected up to 40% of their fruit, giving yields as low as 16hl/ha.

As a result, I went to the tasting expecting that acidity levels would be very high (they were – in fact malolactic fermentation took ages to be completed), and that some wines (both red and white) would be a bit lean (indeed some were).

My overall impression was that whites fared better than reds, and that the Cotes de Nuits shaded the Cotes de Beaune (though I enjoyed several of the wines from Corton). I will confess that I am, as Michael Schuster puts it, one who likes my white Burgundy “taut, refreshing, aromatically complex and minerally”. There were no fat white Burgundies here!

But this vintage (though some would argue, every vintage) was more about the producer than the provenance of the wine. Those producers who were fastidious in both the vineyard practices and in their sorting were able to do great things. Below I will highlight a few producers whose wines I thoroughly enjoyed.

**CHANSON

Chassagne-Montrachet – Les Chenevottes – 1er Cru (White). Lean and tight, rhubarb and citrus on the nose, good length and depth of palate. 17.5 pts

Beaune – Clos des Féves – 1er Cru (red). Wonderfully complex and balanced, amalgam of fruit and secondary flavours, silky tannins. 18.5 pts

Savigny-lés-Beaune – La Dominode – 1er Cru (red). Bright red translucence, very expressive nose, fruit and savoury elements, elegant and balanced. 18.5 pts

GEORGE ROUMIER

Chambolle Musigny (red). Sulphurous initially, which blew off. A thoroughly well made wine – each element of fruit, tannin and acid playing a part, but not individually intrusive. 17 pts

Morey-Saint-Denis – Clos de la Bussiére – 1er Cru (red). Lifted nose of sweet strawberries and cherries. A leanness to the palate but fruit flavours not unripe. 17 pts

Bonnes-Mares – Grand Cru – (red). When one tastes wines like this one realizes why people just go crazy about red Burgundy. This was a near perfect expression of pinot noir – cherry fruit, silky tannins, austere but with a rustic edge. Controlled power. 18.5 pts

BONNEAU DU MARTRAY

Corton-Charlemagne – Grand Cru (white). Full, rich and powerful, with layers of complexity – palate variegated but integrated. Effects of battonage, MLF and oak evident, good acidity, and very persistent length. 18 pts

Corton – Grand Cru (red). Intense fruit concentration, with ripe tannins. Far too young – has a great future ahead. 18 pts

MAISON FAIVELEY

Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet – Grand Cru (white). A bigger yet balanced expression, stylish, subtle and long palate. High quality oak. 17.5 pts

Gevrey-Chambertin – Les Cazetiers – 1er cru (red). Serious nose gives way to a serious palate – with fruit and savoury flavours, silky mouthfeel, good balance. 17.5 pts

Mazis-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). After the initial sulphur has blown off, this is the proverbial peacock’s tail. Aromas keep building in the glass, flavours likewise on the palate. 18.5 pts

DROUHIN

Chablis – Grand Cru – les Clos. Citrus minerality, austere and lean. Acid levels high. Evidence of oak and malo (not atypical for Grand Cru Chablis) 17.75

Beaune – Clos des Mouches Blanc – 1er Cru (white). Depth to olour and flavour. Wet stone and lychee notes. Elegant mouthfeel. 17.5 pts

Grands Echézeaux – Grand Cru (red). Depth to aroma and palate, cherry and even soy. Again, far too young, (and in this case, a bit cold also – new bottle recently emerged from the cellar and opened ~12 deg C. Showed better when warmed.) 18 pts

DOMAINE DUJAC

Vosne-Romanée – Aux Malconsorts – 1er Cru (red). Hints of coffee on the nose (probably from oak). No lack of phenolic ripeness here – the particular mingling of fruit and tannins and acid suggest long aging potential. 18.5 pts

TRAPET

Latriciéres-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). Layers of complexity, luscious and classically expressive. 18.5 pts

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

** Chanson is not part of Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition but is an Institute sponsor

Burgundy Comes to Australia

Direct imports by Lamont’s – Cottesloe

17 & 22 December 2009

Burgundy is the holy grail of wines from my perspective. The great wines from Burgundy (both red and white) are possibly the greatest wines on the planet. The problem is that most wines do not reach anywhere near that pinnacle, especially for pinot noir. The best new world pinots are lovely wines but they lack the ethereal qualities of great burgundies. Indeed, most red burgundies fall well short of the mark too.

The story is a little different for chardonnay. The greatest new world wines (e.g. Leeuwin Estate from Margaret River) are indeed great wines. They are different to those from Burgundy though. Not better or worse, just different. Is the quality of these new world chardonnays equal to the best white burgundies (e.g. Grand Cru wines such as La – Montrachet etc)? Perhaps not quite, but the gap is small. Do good whites from the Burgundy region offer a drinking experience that is worth pursuing? Definitely! The minerally characters abundant in these wines are ideally suited to food, and often will take some aging.

At this stage I should highlight that wines made from chardonnay from the Burgundy region come from two main regions. Chablis and Burgundy. Both are typically 100% chardonnay, but the style differs significantly. I will discuss this further in a future article.

So to the wines.

Lamont’s has sourced a number of wines from various producers throughout Burgundy and Chablis. Looking at the order form, the wines appear to be very well priced. They suggest that a combination of the higher Australian Dollar, decreased global demand post the Global Financial Crisis and the ability to bypass the middle-man through direct imports has resulted in significantly reduced prices.

Having said all this, the wines only represent good value if they are actually good. After tasting 18 of the wines (this was not a blind tasting, so points are a bit arbitrary) I am pleased to say that they are good to very good, and there is some excellent value on offer.

Importantly, this is an opportunity to drink/cellar a selection of wines that offer something different to anything being made in the new world.

Tasted

Chardonnay

Bernard Bonin – Meursault Charmes – Premier Cru – 2004 (18). (Burgundy). Open and rich nose with minerals and melon fruit characters The palate is round and rich, with caramel toasty oak. Good mouth feel that is viscous and textured. Drinking well now.

Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18.5). (Burgundy). Formerly known as Domaine Michelot. Closed and surprisingly tight given that it is 5 years old. The palate has plenty of minerals, spice, stone fruit and a touch of almond. There is also peachy fruit and a touch of apricot kernel. The palate is defined by fine acidity and high quality oak but remains lean and relatively austere. Will evolve wonderfully over time.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de La Ville – 2006 (17.9). (Burgundy). Whilst quite closed at the moment, this has citrus and tropical fruit notes. The palate is rich, ripe and textured with lovely mouth feel. Very fine oak is seamlessly integrated. Opens and builds power with air. Give it a few years to blossom.

Darviot Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots Dessus – Premier Cru – 2006 (18.5). (Burgundy). Closed, complex and creamy. The palate is closed, tight, seamless and very long. Stone fruit to the fore with great subtlety. This is fantastic! Needs several years to show its best.

Laurent Cognard – Montagny Les Bassets – Premier Cru – 2008 (17.5). (Burgundy). More obvious nose. Quite creamy, with more stone fruit and less minerals than the wines from chablis. There is also a touch of Marzipan/rose water. This has potential! The palate has lovely lemony acid, is creamy and has a relatively seamless palate. Some apricot to close.

Philippe Chavy – Borgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). (Burgundy). Cold and quite closed to start. Plenty of minerals and lemony acid with a touch of toastiness. Not complex, but would be good drinking with a risotto this summer.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Folatiers – Premier Cru – 2007 (18). (Burgundy). More complex and ripe. Interestingly, this has more colour than most here. The palate is defined by powerful fruit – this is big. Very good length and more structure. One to drink over the next year.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2007 (17.7). (Burgundy). More complex and obviously white burgundy. A touch of mineraly curry leaf. This is quite chewy and textured with a touch of honey and seamless oak. There is a steely finish on this fine wine.

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2007 (16.9). Classic minerals and flint on the nose with ripe peach and a touch of almond meal. The palate is bright and fresh. This is tasty, and has a lovely mouth watering saltiness on the close. Not greatly complex, but very enjoyable drinking. Good Value.

Sylvain Mosnier – Beauroy – Premier Cru – 2006 (17.4). (Chablis). More complex, with honey, lanolin, and stone fruit. The palate has apricot kernel and honey. There is some oak evident on the creamy finish. This has real density of fruit but is still quite closed. May get greater length with a year more in bottle.

Bernard Bonin – Meursault – Les Tillets – 2005 (NR). (Burgundy). Slight cork taint. Looks promising.

Pinot Noir

Anne & Herve Sigaut – Morey St Denis – Les Millandes – Premier Cru – 2007 (17.5/18). Wow, really perfumed with a touch of meatiness. This really chewy and dense showing fruit and tannin ripeness. The drying finish is very fine. Points for potential.

Aurelien Verdet – Haut Cote de Nuit – 2007 (17.3). Scented and perfumed. A fine and refined wine. More concentrated than the Clos des Faulques. Darker cherry fruit that has earthy undertones. White pepper and savoury notes. This is great value.

Darviot Perrin – Beaune Bellisands – Premier Cru – 2003 (18). Intriguing “French” pong reflects the extra bottle age on this wine. Deep smelling with cherry and red currant undertones. The palate is long, complex, savoury and dense. Subtle oak supports the cherry fruit. Very good drinking!

Jean-Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Clos des Faulques – 2007 (16.5). Ripe cherry with some complexity on the nose. The palate has cherry, strawberries and spice. Simple but a good drink.

Jean-Marc Millot – Clos Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Complex, deep and fragrant nose. Wow, the palate is powerful, deep, dense, very fine and long. Evolves with air, revealing leather, spice and cloves. Majestic wine.

N.B. To add context to the tasting, we opened a bottle of the Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2006 (18.5/18.7) to use as a bench mark. This is a wine of stunning quality and at under $100 a bottle is a real bargain.

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Reviewed: 25 July 2011

A strong line up of chardonnay and pinot noir has resulted in a number of worthwhile wines. The highlight for me was the Yerring Station pinot, a wine that is full of poise. At $38 it is not cheap, but it is worth a try. (Dan Murphy have it online for $32).

The wines from Robert Oatley are also worth commenting on. Both displayed generosity to the quality fruit and skilled winemaking. These are wines that can be consumed in the short term with pleasure. At around $25, they represent value.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18). Forward, floral fruit with a hint of citrus and melon. This is a tighter style compared to the Oatley. It is long and refined, with a drying finish. Quality fruit and oak, with serious length. Avoid drinking now as this needs 3 – 5 years to show its best.

Robert Oatley – Chardonnay – Craigmoor AC1 Vineyard – 2009 (17.8). Lovely lemony fruit with subtle barrel ferment and lees effects. Creamy and seductive, the palate matches the nose, with flint and minerals to the fore on the (very long) finish. The charry oak is a touch dominant, but should settle.

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2010 (17.5). Very creamy, with well integrated winemaking inputs. Opens with peach and pineapple fruit, with a touch of mineral and curry leaf to add interest. The quality fruit has real length of flavour. Needs time to show its best. (Another really smart wine from this producer).

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – Fifth Leg – Crisp – 2010 (16.8). Floral nose with tropical fruits. Zesty and racy palate that hints at its chardonnay origins, but in a fresh and vibrant package. An excellent alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2010 (18). More angular and precise nose. Beautifully weighted fruit that is more to do with sappy/savoury notes than bright fruit. The palate has excellent structure and mouth-feel, while the tannins are fine. Needs a few years to hit its straps, as this blossomed after sitting on the tasting bench for a couple of days. A very smart wine.

Robert Oatley – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (17.6). Succulent, sweet and juicy fruit. This is at the ripe end of cherry, hinting at plum. There is also some tar, combined with earthy notes. The palate has more of the same in a soft and approachable style. Silky tannins and a touch of oak make for good early drinking. Good buying if you see it around $25.

Chard Farm – Pinot Noir – River Run – 2008 (17.5). Cherry fruit that is tight and focused. A complex wine. The fruit on the palate has excellent depth and balance. There is a slight astringency running through the palate and the tannins are fine and the oak supple. This is a powerful wine that has yet to reveal itself fully. Interestingly, this was preferred to its more expensive siblings in this tasting.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 10 February 2013

This tasting again highlighted the evolution of Australian Chardonnay. Earlier picked and lower in alcohol, these wines can be quite thrilling. The Howard Park and Squitchy Lane are excellent examples.

The Killerby sits in the middle, having more richness to the fruit, yet retaining elegance and subtlety. Delicious stuff.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Starts in the leaner style with more minerality than a lot of Australian chardonnays. There is peachy fruit with pineapple hints on the palate, (most likely from the inclusion of Mendoza clone fruit). The palate opens to become quite viscous and mouth-coating, the finish balanced by lovely acidity. There is high quality, yet restrained oak and the length is admirable. Will age gracefully over the next five years, but this is a super drink right now! (13% alc).

Squitchy Lane – Chardonnay – Yarra Valley – 2010 (17.8). The restrained nose speaks of quality winemaking in a modern, lean style. There is a lovely palate that is creamy and textured, yet fine and elegant. This has high quality fruit that expresses as white peach and nectarine. There is a degree of richness to the fruit on the palate that is very compelling. The finish is near seamless with the acid and oak adding depth rather than overt flavour. The complex, worked characters round out the finish. Will be even better with another year or two in bottle. (13% alc).

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2011 (17.7). Closed and tight, this only hints at potential. The palate is superb, with hints of pineapple (? from mendoza clone vines) as well as stonefruit. This is lean and elegant, with grapefruit acidity to close. The length is admirable, but it is a modern style that needs 3 – 5 years to show its best.

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). A more opulent style that is still quite elegant, though the finish is a touch firm right now. Opens to show quality fruit and winemaking. The palate has excellent balance and you can sense that with time, the fruit will uncoil to show its power. Excellent winemaking. Compared to the Howard Park, this is quite a rich wine, but it is still well balanced.

West Cape Howe – Chardonnay – 2012 (16.5). Whilst it does not say so on the front label, this is an unwooded example. The nose is dominated by fresh and vibrant tropical fruit notes. The palate is fresh and lively, with the tropical fruit lingering. Easy summer drinking and a good alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc.

New Release Imports

Reviewed: 30 January 2013

An interesting point came up for discussion during the tasting came when one panellist berated me for not giving the white Burgundies higher points. He pointed out that the wines had only recently landed and will undoubtedly be better in a month or two’s time when they have settled.

The problem with this view is that I can only assess what is in my glass and compare that to my personal frame of reference. Perhaps my points are a little low, but this is better than having them too high.

Another point was made in regards to the points that are given to Australian wines. It was suggested that these wines were significantly better than many Australian wines and therefore should get higher points. I would counter with the view that the wines are different. A $30 Australian chardonnay scoring 17.5pts is, in my mind at least, the equal of a Burgundy scoring 17.5pts. That the wines are stylistically different does not diminish my enjoyment for both.

Indeed, I would suggest that for the average consumer who does not try many French wines, the Australian wine will be more enjoyable. We are naturally influenced by our past experiences and what we are familiar with.

This is the beauty of wine; it can be all things to all people!

A fascinating tasting of high quality wines.

White Burgundy

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.8). Restrained and tight, this is a lovely wine with really potential. There are hints of pineapple, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose in quite a modern style. Very long, slightly viscous, yet not cloying, with a lovely minerality to the fruit on the palate. The acid and oak are well judged and the oak is high quality.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault-Charmes – 2010 (17.8). Minerals and curry leaf over peach, nectarine, cashew nut and citrus fruit characters. The palate matches the nose perfectly, with intense, yet refined fruit matched to high quality oak. Seamless and creamy, the finish is a treat.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Meursault – La Barre – 2010 (17.7). Restrained on the nose compared to the Puligny. This is an elegant wine of some charm. The fruit is remarkably long and is carried by grapefruit like acidity. The length here is outstanding as is the mouth-feel and texture. The fruit builds and evolves and there are minerals and nutty fruit on the finish. A few years would only help this wine.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Puligny Montrachet – Les Chalumeaux – 2010 (17.5+). Lean and angular, this is a wine for another day. It really needs time to fill out and expand on both the nose and the palate. Perhaps from a cooler year, the structure and acidity are excellent. In terms of descriptors, the wine shows lemony fruit and acid, stonefruit, grapefruit, melon and mealy complexity.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.5+). Quite forward fruit on the nose combined with strong minerality, curry leaf and almond meal. The palate is very rich and round, showing more of the mineral characters, lemon zest, almond meal and complex, struck match and flint highlights. Not for the faint hearted, this is a rich white Burgundy.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault – Genevrieres – 2010 (17.5) Creamy fruit on the nose, with minerals and spice. Somewhat developed and honeyed, but the acid is still fresh and keeps the palate alive. Long and succulent, this is a good wine that opens and evolves. There is a touch of vanillin oak to close. A Subtle, yet abundant wine with excellent length.

Assorted Red Wines

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey-Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2010 (17.8+). More density here. Powerful, spicy fruit with hints of licorice, clove and even star anise. Long and savoury, this is a step up in terms of fruit density and quality. Textured, long and almost chewy, this is a quality wine. Needs time.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose showing ripe, fragrant fruit. The palate is more about structure and spice than ripe fruit. There is excellent length and depth to the quality fruit and the texture really fleshes out with air. An excellent Fixin from a producer to watch out for.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – 1er Cru – Givry – Clos Saint Pierre 2009 (17.3). Initially tight and restrained, this opens to show perfumed fruit on the nose and palate, with spice, cherry and plum over cedar. The fruit is not overly dense, but it is ripe and the wine is well made.

Domaine Des Combiers – Gamay – Fleurie – La Cadole – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Fragrant and lively fruit on the nose, with red berries and gentle spice. The palate is fresh, light, succulent and juicy. There are savoury hints to close on an easy drinking and quite delicious red wine. This may have seen some carbonic maceration to add more life to the fruit.

Domaine La Cabotte – Cotes du Rhone – 2008 (17). Clean and fresh, with dense dark fruits. Think licorice, spice, cinnamon and cherry. The palate is textured and spicy , with little oak influence, but really deap tasting fruit. Smart wine.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 20 December 2012

Overall, this was a smart line-up that threw up some real surprises. The highlight was the Hardy’s Oomoo. Who would have thought that a cheaper chardonnay could develop so well. It makes me think that a case of the Angove tucked away for a few years would be worth a punt, given how well it showed.

From a current drinking point of view, two wines stood out: The Willow Bridge and the Yerring Station. They are both delicious, though ultimately, the Yerring Station is the better wine, (and twice the price).

Reviewed

Millbrook – Chardonnay – Limited Release – 2011 (17.7 – 18.2). Aromas of stone-fruit and mealy, nutty characters over grapefruit and a touch of ginger spice. The palate has plenty of juicy peach fruit, with quality new oak evident. The barrel ferment and lees work adds lovely richness and texture to the palate. The length is excellent and the finish spot on. A bigger style that combines excellent fruit and quality oak, but the balance is a highlight. Will develop well.

Yering Station – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A fresh, vibrant style that has creamy stone fruit characters and fresh citrus acid on the finish. There is lovely texture and mouth-feel and the balance is spot-on. Whilst this is a great drink now, it has the potential to offer even more with a couple of years in the bottle. My pick of the tasting for current drinking, but this developed remarkably over a few days on the tasting bench, so is sure to age well for a few years.

Angove – Chardonnay – Long Row – 2012 (17.5). Wow, what a surprise this wine was! Lovely creamy fruit aromas here that are quite complex and alluring. The palate is supple, round and generous, with peach, grapefruit and minerals combining with good quality oak. The oak is very well integrated and really adds to the finish. This is a wine that I would like to drink in a few years as the fruit should really build and if anything, become more complex. At $10, this is worth a punt.

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – Hidden Cave – 2012 (17 – 17.5). This is the second time that I have reviewed this recently, and an extra month in the bottle has already seen this open up. The wine has a modern nose that shows grapefruit over stone-fruit aromas. The palate opens with clean, fresh fruit with a lovely citrus tang. There is life and vitality, with a hint of lees and oak to add interest. Not overly complex at present, this will make an excellent afternoon drink. Given time though, it will develop complexity and a degree of richness.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Oomoo – 2008 (17.5). This wine floored the panel when it was unveiled. I like the nose here for its minerals and subtle stone-fruit. There is even a hint of curry leaf that I associate with high quality burgundy. The palate has peach and nectarine flavours with quality, medium-toast oak on the finish. A supple, well integrated wine with grapefruit to close. (Not current release).

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay – Backyard Stories – 2011 (17.5). A bigger style with buttery lees and oak. Interestingly there is quite sharp acid on the finish initially that cuts through the richness. Long and juicy, the fruit is actually very good and this really builds in the glass. This just gets better and better, with the fruit really tying to the high quality oak making for a complex wine.

Shingleback – Chardonnay – Kiss Me Kate – 2012 (17.5). A firm wine that has quality fruit and oak, yet is very reserved and shy. This is very much in the mould of the modern style that Australian winemakers are embracing. The palate is lean and angular, but it will develop with time. Opens up in the glass to show lime, peach and a touch of oak spice. The oak lingers on the finish, but this should integrate back in to the fruit with a little more time in the bottle. A remarkably refined chardonnay from McLaren Vale.

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – Dragonfly – 2012 (17). Seductive nose that has clean, fresh, ripe fruit and subtle oak and lees aromas. The palate is forward, showing rich fruit characters and fresh acid. The oak is nicely textured and adds depth. A very good wine for current drinking and should be excellent value.

De Bortoli – Chardonnay – La Bossa – 2011 (16.3). Relatively simple fruit that has been expertly made. The length of the palate is a standout feature. Soft and supple, the restrained nature of this wine will work beautifully with food.

Chardonnay & Pinot Gris

Reviewed: 14 July 2012

An interesting tasting with many wines not making it to this review. The pinot gris/grigio was interesting in that there was not a clear stylistic difference between those labelled “pinot gris” and those labeled “pinot grigio”. All the same, there are some good wines here.

The chardonnays were quite a diverse group, with taster preferences influencing the results. I for one, loved the 2009 Redbrook chardonnay, a wine that managed to balance riper fruit with a degree of drinkability that was hard to resist. One wag dubbed the 2008 Redbrook “Dolly Parton” as it was upfront and obvious.

Reviewed

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2009 (17.8). Complex nose. This has it all. Pineapple and citrus fruit, creamy oak, barrel ferment and lees characters. The palate mirrors the nose well. This is long and fine. A good wine with subtle toast to close. Should continue to evolve well for a few years.

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2008 (17+/-). A complex, well-worked wine that has decent fruit. The oak is of high quality, though the medium toast characters are a touch obvious. A wine of some charm with lots of creamy oak and leesy characters over deliciously ripe fruit. If you like a bigger style of Chardonnay, you will love this!

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen and Chicken – 2011 (17). Tight, creamy oak over quality fruit with flint highlights. The palate is seamless, textured, viscous and long. This is a subtle wine of great charm.

Stormflower – Chardonnay – 2011 (17). A quality wine showing creamy oak, pineapple, citrus and a cashew nut mealy character on the palate. I like this. Long and fine, the quality oak has been very well handled, balancing fruit, oak and lees. Not subtle, but so what.

Tomich Estate – Pinot Gris – Family Reserve (17). Complex wine that has seen plenty of winemaker’s inputs. Creamy oak, with a textured palate that is long and quite fine. The fruit characters that I would expect from the style are suppressed now, but it opens to show decent aromatics, with pear, red fruits and barrel ferment/lees characters.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – 2012 (16.9). Floral and lifted, with nutty fruit to close. This is quite viscous and dense and the hint of sweetness balances the wine nicely. Expressive, there is some viscosity and it finishes quite dry. A floral Barossa white has no right to taste this good.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Grigio – Pinocchio – 2011 (16.8). More savoury than sweet fruit that suits the style well. The tart palate shows subdued fruit but is quite textured and long. This really goes on in the mouth. Well made wine.

Oxford Landing Estate – Pinot Grigio – 2011 (16). More musk-like fruit here. Nutty complexity to close with excellent length for a wine in this price range.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 14 May 2012

Some superb wines reviewed here, but none more so than the sublime Art Series Chardonnay from Leeuwin Estate. The style continues to evolve into an ever-finer style, but the quality remains superb. Some of the more expensive wines did not show well initially. With time in the glass and (importantly) food, a few really blossomed. A good example of this came from Hay Shed Hill. The standard wine looked much better when first opened, but the next day, the Block 6 really blossomed.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18.3+). This started with delicate citrus and pineapple fruit on the nose, but it was the palate of this wine that delighted me. Powerful, concentrated, taut, refined and seamless, this is a superb wine. The length of flavours is outstanding, and the persistence is excellent. Seamless oak just adds a slightly toasty note to the finish. Serious, very carefully crafted, with wonderful acid to sustain the palate. Deserves a gold medal, but needs years to show its absolute best.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (17.8+). A touch more fruit up front, though the palate has intense minerality on top of powerful mendoza clone fruit. Ripe, though there is tingling acidity on a finish that really goes on. Builds in the mouth and will blossom with time. This wine was even better with food the next day.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – Block 6 – 2011 (17.5 – 18). A very good wine that is just far too young. Patience will be rewarded, so drink the standard release while you wait for this one to mature.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Quite closed on the nose, while the palate is refined and supple. Sympathetic oak on the finish tends towards a touch of toast. This is balanced, fine and long, that took a day or two to show its best, but if you are impatient, it is fine drinking right now.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5). I like this. Fresh fruit and acid, with lovely minerality and spice on the nose. The palate has underlying power and is very long, though somewhat taut and unrewarding right now. Even six months will allow this wine to blossom. Excellent fruit, winemaking and creamy (high quality) oak to close.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and reserved, this is a taut wine that, while very well made, is not quite together yet. Oak, lemony fruit and acid are all good, but this needs a year to settle down. A serious wine.

Cave de Lugny – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – 2010 (17). Hints of pineapple, struck match and curry leaf with a finish that is very dry and full of minerality. A complex, interesting wine that, whilst not everyone’s cup of tea, is a stylish wine that I enjoyed.

The Lane – Chardonnay – Beginning – 2009 (17+). Fresh, tight and delicious with a creamy textural component. This is not an overly dense wine, but it is a great drink. The finish is long and fine with well judged phenolics. Needs a year or two to open up.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Peachy fruit that is quite straightforward, though there are attractive worked characters on the nose and palate. Fresh and clean, with a touch of vanillin oak influence adding to a creamy finish. Well made.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2011 (16.5) A good quality wine here. Lemon brulée over tight fruit characters. Minerals, spice, flint and creamy oak all integrate on a stylish palate. Good length to a wine that is very well made and will be at its peak in about 6 – 12 months.

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Rolling – 2011 (16.5). Well made wine that received very strong support from two panellists. Value drinking over the next year or two.

Drakesbrook – Chardonnay – The Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Another well made wine that is not overly complex, but is a good drink now. With solid support from the entire panel, this represents value!

Oxford Landing Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (16). A delicate wine, with stonefruit on the nose. The simple palate is commercial but sound, with a nice core of acid. Well made and exceptional value.