Category Archives: Italian – Wine Reviews

Il Palazzone

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Il Palazzone

A Scotswoman in Montalcino!

30th December 2009

What is a Scotswoman doing in Montalcino, and one that has been there for 15 years at that? Well may you ask. Laura Gray, however, is no ordinary Scot. With both her parents having hailed from the world of academia, she had spent time growing up in places as antipodean as Australia, and Italy was a common destination for the family. Indeed by the time she was in her later school years, summer visits to Camigliano were the norm.

Laura confessed that she always knew she would return to Montalcino to live – or at least that was her dream. She is living the reality!

Our meeting occurred under amazing circumstances – I am living in Tuscany and had a couple of my articles accepted for publication by Snooth. She read one of these and invited me to Il Palazzone (and helped arrange a meeting with Andrea Cortonesi at Uccelliera – the subject of a subsequent article) and so I gladly took up the invitation with a friend from my tasting group.

Il Palazzone is a small winery in the heart of Montalcino, that produces the highest quality Brunello, in the traditional style. Total annual production is between 8000 and 12000 bottles. Brunello is the only DOCG wine they produce – there is no Rosso di Montalcino. The vineyards are over 500m above sea level, with a smaller holding at a lower altitude, and responsible viticulture is their catch cry. No chemical pesticides are used, and hand pruning is employed as the norm.

Laura is married to Marco Sassetti,
 and they have two young children, and live on the property. Marco hails from S.Angelo in Colle, just around the corner from Montalcino. He is the general manager of the property and is responsible for the vineyard and olive grove management, the cellar construction and the logistics of the property. Marco is a down to earth and salt of the earth sort of guy, with a passion for all things natural. He and Laura created and ran a cult restaurant, La Fortezza del Brunello (6 tables and 600 wines….) but gave up their restaurant business to work for Il Palazzone, in 2003.

Laura herself is a trained sommelier and has a degree in English Literature from the University of Oxford. She is the estate manager, responsible for sales, marketing, finances and administration. We had the opportunity to walk around the vineyard and sample the Brunellos. The vineyards just a short walk away from the heart of the town. Large Slavonian oak barrels are used (as was the tradition in Montalcino) and the winemaker is none other than Paolo Vagaggini. The results are stunning.

It is clear that Laura, her husband and all at Il Palazzone behave as though they are curators of a valuable asset. They have just made their second production of IGP Toscano oil (9 kg of yield per 100 kg of olives this year!) They are in their second year of the Club 100 tree sponsorship project. The future plans include honey, fig and chestnut use and preserves from the fruit trees from the property, keen to put all resources to their maximum use…

But now on to the wines: As a teaser, we tried their Vino di Tavola – a non-vintage or rather multi vintage that Il Palazzone release in lieu of a DOCG Rosso. To call this a quaffer would be to do it an injustice. A Brunello in everything other than name, this is probably the best value for money red I have tasted in my eight months in Italy.

We then sampled the 1995 Brunello – it should be noted that this wine was made before the current owner acquired the property. One can understand the attraction, and why Il Palazzone was later purchased. This was a wine singing in its older age. It displayed a lovely balance of savoury and fruit characters, with the added complexity afforded by aged characters in the wine. There remained an austerity to the wine, stamping its integrity as a top notch Brunello.

The current release was the 2004 – and we tried this next. Though difficult to compare to the older wine, there was great linearity to this wine – with clear evidence of quality fruit and expert winemaking. Cherry, berry and plums danced with ripe, silky and refined tannins. Acidity was high, but in perfect balance with other elements, finishing with impressive persistence.

Over lunch, our hosts opened the 1998 Riserva. Wow! Cherry and spice, with fruit, acid and tannins in harmonious evolution, and perfectly matched with the delicious rustic fare so simply yet expertly prepared by our hosts. All in all, a fantastic day, and an impressive array of wines.

I am looking forward to keeping in touch with Laura, and visiting Il Palazzone again.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

Pugnitello

A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Pugnitello

30 December 2009

Does the name Pugnitello mean anything to You?

I would be surprised if it did. It is the name of an indigenous or autoctonous grape variety from here in Tuscany, Italy. In ancient times, the Etruscans were the inhabitants of this area, before they were overrun by the Romans a couple of centuries BC. They were early cultivars of the vine – though they usually let the vines climb along trees in trails the vines set themselves.

In recent years, scientists, winemakers and vignerons have been concerned by the attrition of grape vine varieties – in what they call the “genetic erosion” of Vitis vinifera – due to, among other reasons, the phylloxera blight and selection of specific varieties to the exclusion of others.

In response to this, the University of Florence in conjunction with San Felice winery and vineyard sought to rediscover and cultivate autoctonous (indigenous) vines. In what has been a mammoth project, an attempt has been made to grow all the existing vines in Tuscany. These have been verified genetically as distinct varieties, and in all, about 230 were grafted on rootstocks and cultivated. Of these, only about 30 bore grapes suitable for wine (by a process called “micro-vinification”, simply meaning small quantities of wine were produced from each plant).

Early results showed that Pugnitello worked well, and is one of the most advanced of the varieties. Being a new variety, oenologists are still learning about its qualities and characteristics, and which winemaking techniques best suit it. I was invited to join a vertical tasting of Pugnitello at the San Felice winery where we tasted all vintages made – 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2007 (none was made in 2005).

Before I go to my tasting notes, two brief points. The wines showed increasing finesse, structure and austerity as the vintages have progressed. This probably represents greater familiarity with the variety than issues of vine age. Secondly, the wines displayed excellent acidity levels even with full phenolic ripeness. If climate change were to proceed to produce warmer vintages, the presence of varieties such as Pugnitello bodes well.

(All wines are San Felice – Pugnitello, all aged in French oak barriques)

San Felice – Pugnitello 2003 (17pts). Dried prunes, plums and blackcurrant on the nose and through to the bittersweet palate. Some savoury earthy characters. Oak still in evidence, with good acid and still needing time to integrate. Alc 12.77%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2004 (17.5pts). Stewed but not overripe fruit, with more spicy tones of anise in particular. Good complexity with softer, more integrated tannins and good acid levels again. Alc 13.5%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2006 (18.25pts). My pick of the tasting. Cherries and plums with some clove on the nose and savoury notes on the palate. Tannins were ripe but discrete. Oak is in no way overwhelmed. Excellent persistence. Alc 12.8%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2007 Black fruits again but with distinctively more floral notes. Oak more evident with sweet ripe tannins and high acidity again. Lovely mouthfeel and not “hot” despite alcohol level. Alc 14% 17.5

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

Editor’s Note: At a time when Australian red wines are often exceeding 15%, a red wine with 14% alcohol seems quite tame really.

Nerello Mascalese

The wines of Mt Etna in Sicily

One of the joys of the last few months here in Italy has been to try new grape varieties from local areas, hitherto not known to me. A case in point has been the discovery of the wines from Etna in Sicily, made predominantly from the Nerello Mascalese grape. Nerello Cappuccio is a close relative and is sometimes blended in smaller quantities, but Nerello Mascalese is the varietal with real class.

An autochthonous* grape variety, and almost forgotten till found and nurtured by a group of dedicated individuals, most vines are pre phylloxera entities on their own rootstocks, some over 100 years old. Grown mainly as bush-vines, each plant yields only a small amount of grapes (yields about 30hl/ha). Though the grape is named after the nearby town of Mascali, it is most likely that it was imported through the town’s port rather than having originated there.

The northern slopes are where most of the wines of quality originate, and the area is designated as a DOC zone. The combination of jet-black volcanic soils and altitude (most vines are between 500 and 1000m up) produce wines of incredible depth and complexity. Usually no new oak is used, and only occasionally are small barriques used.

Others have described the red wines produced from Nerello Mascalese as having the structure of a Barolo and the elegance of a Burgundy. I can see that the comparisons are apt. The wines I have tasted have been medium bodied, quite tannic, but silkily so, with flavours of dried/black cherry and blackcurrant. Tobacco and spice are evident, but most impressive is an earthiness matched with a silkiness – quite a combination! It can have an ethereal quality like the best pinot noir, especially when allowed to breathe. The wines have an impressive backbone of acidity and age well. They can have high-ish alcohol levels of 13.5 – 14% but there is no impression of hotness whatsoever.

Below are the ones I have tried. I recommend you seek out a Nerello Mascalese, and if you find one, I think it is well worth a try!

Pietro Caciorgna – Etna Rosso DOC – N’Anticchia – 2006.

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere – Etna Rosso DOC – Guardiola – Sicily – 2005.

Passopisciaro – IGT Sicilia – 2006.

Vini Biondi – Etna Rosso DOC – Outis – 2006.

Nebbiolo

A boot-full of wine

Nebbiolo is a grape variety that has begun to have New World manifestations, but it is really the noble variety of Piedmont (even though much more Dolcetto and Barbera is grown there). Very smart examples indeed are also made in the Valtellina region north of Milan, but Piedmont is its spiritual home.

Nebbiolo is a late ripening variety, and has, surprisingly, thin, though very tough, skin. It grows best in calcerous rather than sandy soils. Its first two or so buds are infertile, so it is not a candidate for spur pruning – cane pruning (and thus hand harvesting) is the rule.

In Piedmont, its two most famous incarnations are the wines from Barolo, and those from Barbaresco. Both are 100% Nebbiolo wines. Other DOC regions also produce nebbiolo based wines, not least of which are the Boca and Gattinara regions. (As an aside, Piedmont is a place that does not subscribe to blending of varieties. Thus, from Barbera to Gavi, Barolo to Dolcetto, you will almost always find wine made from a single variety.)

Barolo wines were traditionally fermented in contact with its skins for up to 2 months, thus explaining the extraction of tannins and colour in old Baroli. Aging used to occur in large oak or chestnut butts, but amongst modernists, this has given way to French oak. In fact, winemaking in Barolo has moved to making the wines more approachable earlier than the traditional 10-year minimum of the past. Skin contact is nowadays often limited to about the average of 2 ½ weeks, and aging in oak often occurs for the minimal time allowed by law (the law requires 3 years aging, 2 of which must be in oak).

“Tar and violets”, chocolate, prunes, tobacco, truffles and autumn smoke are the common descriptors for Nebbiolo in general and Barolo in particular.

Barbaresco hails from a drier, warmer area than Barolo, at altitudes about 200-350m above sea level. Regulations allow for only 1 or 2 years aging in oak, and again there are traditionalists and modernists. Generally speaking Barbaresco is a little softer and approachable when younger than Barolo, though with the essences of violets, lush fruit, assertive acid and tannins still in evidence.

I am heading off to Piedmont next week, but here are a few great examples of Nebbiolo from a recent tasting (I am unsure about their availability in Australia, but if you track down any of them, it may be worth acquiring a few bottles):

Reviewed

Burlotto – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Monvigliero” (18.5). A lighter colour but a powerful structured wine, with lots of leather and mushroom notes. Yum! (40 Euro)

Clerico – Barolo – DOCG – 2006 – “Ciabot Mentin Ginestra” (17.75). A traditional style Barolo, this is powerful but young and tannic, and needs time – much more time! (71 Euro)

Grimaldi Bruna – Barolo – “Badarina” – DOCG – 2006 – “Vigneto Regnola” (17.5). “Simpler” in the sense that primary fruit flavours dominate with a crisp clean palate without too many secondary flavours. 30 Euro

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Gavarini Chiniera” – 2006 (18.75). Rich and unctuous, a quintessential Barolo with tar, rose petals, truffles, and firm tannins. Stupendous! (61 Euro)

Grasso Elio – Barolo – DOCG – “Ginestra Casa Mate” – 2006 (18.5). Like a more feminine version of the above, with poise and finesse. (61 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – 2004 – Riserva – “Vigna Rionda” (18.8). The best Barolo in the line up. Dark and brooding, softened by its age but with many a year in front of it. Rich red fruit, herbs and smokiness. (73 Euro)

Massolino Vigna Rionda – Barolo – DOCG – “Margheria” – 2006 – (17.75). Again lighter in colour, but with a firm tannic structure, high acid, complex yet clean with wonderful palate line and length (to borrow a cricket analogy). (52 Euro)

Nada Fiorenzo – Barbaresco – DOCG – 2006 – “Rombone” (18.5). Softer and rounder but unmistakably Nebbiolo. Again, has the fine structure afforded by firm tannins and fruit to give it longevity – if you can keep your hands off it!! (44 Euro)

Travaglini Gattinara – DOCG – Riserva – 2004 (18). I thought this wine was fantastic, and very Barolo-esque, but, perhaps owing to its less well-known appellation, at half the price! (31 Euro)

A final note on the vintages mentioned – 2006 was very good, 2004 outstanding!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

 

Domaine Saint Nicholas

Reviewed: 7 November 2012

Thierry Michon has been making wine on the Atlantic coast for many years in vineyards that are on the western edge of the Loire. Recently, the region has been awarded AOC status with the appellation name Fiefs Vendeens. Thierry’s desire to make the best wines possible has seen his vineyards converted to Biodynamic farming practices. The whites have been biodynamic since 1993 and the reds since 1995, so this is obviously not a new fad for the Michons.

The family now have 42 Hectares under vines spread across a 12 km stretch of coast. Whilst schist dominates the soil, there is subtle variation from one vineyard to the next.

A quirk of the Fiefs Vendeens appellation is that all wines carrying the appellation name must be a blend of grape varieties. Thierry bucks this trend and releases straight chenin and pinot based wines. He joked that these wines are blends, for example, of pinot and noir.

So what are the wines like? To my palate, the wines are good to excellent. The highlights for me are the chenin blancs and the pinot noirs. Both these wines spoke of the place from where they were produced as well as the vintage conditions in which the grapes were grown. I was also fascinated to try two wines made from the red grape negrette. This was the first time I had seen this grape and found a lot to like.

You will notice that I have not assigned points to the wines. I did this for two reasons. Firstly this was an open tasting with the winemaker, so it was hard to be totally objective. Secondly, with wines like the negrette, I did not have a benchmark to compare them to. The 2007 Le Poire could be the best negrette in the world, but without trying more, all I can say is that it is a good drink and worth seeking out if you want to try something a bit different.

Thierry was accompanied by his son and daughter who are off to New Zealand to work with Felton Rd for the next six months. They were only in Australia for 24 hours whilst in transit, so I am very grateful that they fought off the jet lag to present their wines.

A special thanks must go to my hosts on the day. Sue Dyson and Roger McShane from Living Wines are the Australian importers of these wines. Please see their website for details of their stockist etc. www.livingwines.com.au

Reviewed

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Groslot Gris – Fiefs Vendeens – Les Clous – 2011. Gold tinged colour. Subtle nose with creamy lees notes. Builds apricot and peach fruit aromas with air. There is honeyed fruit with more of the stonefruit characters on a palate that is quite neutral, yet has excellent length and builds presence in the mouth. The vines for this were planted in 1980, only naturally occurring yeasts are used for the ferment and the wine spends time on lees. An excellent food wine. (50/40/10 blend).

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Gamay – Gammes en May – 2010. A beautiful deep purple colour, though this is still lighter than a cabernet for example. Made like a burgundy rather than using carbonic maceration. There is a lovely perfume on the nose with hints of raspberry and fennel. The palate is fresh, light and interesting, with cherry and spice to close. Quite a neutral wine that could be served slightly cool or at room temperature.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir/Cabernet Franc/Gamay/Negrette – Relefts Rouge – 2011 – Pinot dominant nose that has attractive cherry fruit with good complexity. Quite a meaty wine in both flavour and structure. Spice and pepper really carry the finish, with a touch of grip at the close. Made in large format oak that adds texture rather than flavour. (40/20/20/20 Blend).

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chardonnay – Cuvee Maria – 2005. A light, golden colour that has plenty of life. Superb nose that has similarities with white burgundy, but has some “new-world” ripeness of fruit. Peaches to the fore, with a touch of nectarine-like structure, with flint, spice and nutty (bitter almond) complexity to close. Excellent length and persistence, this full-bodied wine is still very youthful. The wine spends 18 months in older oak. A wine to be enjoyed on its own or with lighter foods.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Negrette – Le Poire – 2008. The first Negrette that I have tried. An interesting and compelling nose, showing an amalgam of cherry, plum and spice. Firm in the mouth, the fruit is lighter bodied and supple. With good length and texture, this is another wine that would work best with food.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Negrette – Le Poire – 2007. Denser fruit on the nose compared to the 2008. The colour is also more purple tinged and darker. More earthy fruit characters, with hints of truffle, forest floor and even a hint of leather. Rich and dense fruit on the front palate with souring acidity to close. I would really like to see this again in 5 years.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2006. Very dense colour that Thierry puts down to the small grapes, soil type (Schist) and the use of copper and nettles in the vineyards as part of the biodynamic management. This is an interesting wine in that it is a blend of new and old-world characters. Dense and earthy, yet there is a core of lovely ripe fruit aromas. In the mouth, there is sour cherry and earth over red fruits. You can almost taste the salty ocean tang on the minerally finish. The length is excellent and the mouth-feel spot on. The wine was macerated on skins for 2-3 weeks though apparently, the colour is set in as little as three days.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2005. Interestingly, this has a fresher red colour compared to the 2006. Earthier overtones on the nose and palate with excellent length and aftertaste. The fruit really builds in the mouth, with the savoury, earthy characters running right through to the finish.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – La Grande Piece – 2004. Starting to show hints of age on the colour. This is relatively subdued on the palate with herbal fruit characters reflecting the cooler vintage conditions. The wine has life and vitality, with lovely line on the palate. Leaner and more acidic, this will carry food well.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Pinot Noir – Plante Gate – 2006. I like this a lot. The fruit is vibrant, with cherry, spice and delicate perfume over quality oak highlights. (0.5 hectare total planting). The oak and bright fruit make this very youthful indeed. There is also savoury nuances over the red fruits (berries). There is souring acid to close which really carries the palate. The assembled tasters thought that this had some similarity to Chianti on the nose. Like the other pinots here, this sees 100% new oak. In many ways, this is my favourite of the pinots, though the 04 La Grande Piece is perhaps better drinking today.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2008. The lovely, complex honeyed fruit on the nose suits the golden colour very well. Rich, honeyed and mouth-filling, the palate has to be tried to be believed. Long and viscous, the merest hint of residual sugar (3gm/l) complements this wine beautifully. With lovely minerals and spice on the finish, this is a meal in itself. A superb wine that is very long and complex. The wine spends 18 months in 600 litre oak barrels prior to bottling.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2007. More minerals and spice than the 2008. Has more nutty (cashew nut) type aromas and flavours than the honeyed 2008. The line and length belie the higher alcohol. The acid is holding the palate together well. A more elegant style, that is lovely drinking, but less compelling than the 08. At over 14% alcohol, this is a lot riper than the others, but in no way hot or overblown.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Les Haut des Clous – 2006. Darker colour than the 07 and more developed on the nose. Reserved and subdued, this would be a great match with food. The palate is long and textured, this wine relying on structure and minerality to make its presence felt, while the lemony fruit adds vibrancy. An interesting contrast.

Domaine Saint Nicholas – Chenin Blanc – Soleil de Chine – 2007. Deep golden colour, with apricot and honey on the nose. Nutty complexity on a palate that is long, gently sweet (15gm/l) and finishes with refreshing acidity. A subtle, supple wine.

New Release Reds – Italian

6 April 2010

The surprises continue here at Fine Wine Club.

This week’s panel tasting looked at a range of red wines, primarily made from Italian/Spanish grape varieties. Often, these wines can be savoury and structured in a style that is typically more suited to drinking with food than tasting on their own.

There has been a change in the approach made by many of the younger European wine makers over the last few years however. There is a trend toward retaining the primary fruit characters of the wines and adding some new oak into the winemaking mix. The result is a more modern wine that is more accessible to Australian wine drinkers who are used to fresh, modern and (importantly) clean wines.

The surprises came not from this new breed of imported wine, but from a range of Australian wines made from less common grape varieties. Highlights Included the wines from Banrock Station. Their new Mediterranean Collection has produced some great value wines. Both the Temperanillo and the Montepulciano are very smart wines and will offer outstanding value at $15 or less per bottle.

Another surprise came from the Paul Conti. Of all the wines tasted, this was the most traditional in style. A very good wine. The star of the tasting was the Running with Bulls Temperanillo. Made by Louisa Rose from Yalumba, this is a sexy wine that really hits the mark. Buy a six-pack and drink a bottle every year to see how it develops.

Tasted

Running With Bulls – Temperanillo -2008 (17.7). Dense yet pretty nose with lovely floral fruit tending towards roses. Ripe fruit characters on the palate with licorice and spice to add complexity. The dry finish lingers. Very long and fine, this will take some time in bottle. Very good wine.

Paul Conti – Temperanillo – The Tuarts – 2007 (17.2). Precise, focussed nose with menthol, tar, cinnamon and a touch of tobacco leaf. More of the same on the palate in a dry style. The tannins are fine but mouth coating. A textural wine that needs some food. More reserved, tight and structured.

Banrock Station – Temperanillo – Mediterranean Collection – 2007 (17.1). Ripe fruit with Satsuma plum on the nose. Fresh and vibrant palate with currants and some dusty spice. Remarkably soft finish makes this excellent short term drinking. Excellent balance with silky tannins to close. Probably has had some whole bunch fermentation.

Banrock Station – Montepulciano – Mediterranean Collection – 2008 (17). Dusty cherry characters. Savoury, but with some sweet fruit over tar and a touch of licorice. The palate is bursting with ripe cherries. Fruit driven, but with plenty of tannin grip on the close to tighten up the finish. Long and juicy. (Confusingly, Montepulciano is the name of both a grape and a town in Italy.)

Care – Shiraz Temperanillo – Carinena – 2008. (16.8). More savoury characters here and quite interesting. Fresh and fruit driven, with gentle tannins and acid to keep the balance. Not a big wine, but good drinking. (Synthetic cork).

Dominion de Goren – Vino De La Tierra De Castella – Codices – 2006. (16.6). Sweet fruit and clean winemaking. Cherry, herbs and a medicinal character work together on the nose with a touch of menthol. A structured wine with a souring cherry finish. Would work well with food.

Wild Oates – Temperanillo – 2008 (16.5). Less obvious nose, but this is a well put together wine. The palate has simple fresh fruit tending towards some stewed plum characters. A solid effort.

New Release Tasting

Fine Wine Wholesalers

Reviewed 14 October 2011

Matt Holden, the State Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers popped in to show off some of his new releases. The highlight of which was the fantastic rieslings from Geoff Grosset.

The value wine of the tasting was the Echelon from Kingston Estate. A flagship wine at a bargain price.

Speaking of value, Lamont’s have some Italian wines at great prices. JJ is bringing them in directly and the wines reviewed below are available for $30 per bottle. To get a Barolo for this price is unheard off. To make the deal sweeter, ask for 13 to the dozen!

Reviewed

Grosset – Riesling – Springvale – 2011 (18.5). Lovely nose. This is floral and fragrant, with hints of lemon blossom. Steely characters dominate the palate, but this opens up to show fragrant talc and very fine acid/structure. The lemony fruit goes on and on. A superb wine that just got better and better in the glass. This is all class, but I would like to give it a few years. We drank this with a roast chicken for dinner and it was beautiful.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2011 (18 – 18.5+). Wow. Pristine nose showing fresh lime juice. This has a degree of viscosity and almost a touch of phenolics, but the lovely lime fruit drives the palate forward. Much more approachable than some previous vintages and an excellent drink. This does, however, have superb structure and it will live for a long time.

Grosset – Riesling – Off Dry – 2011 (18). Lovely wine. Floral fruit and vibrant acidity. Really delicious in the mouth – a super wine. A touch oily to close, the length of fruit on the palate is a standout. The slight residual sugar is balanced by well judged acidity. Softer and more approachable than the previous two and my pick for current drinking.

Bird in Hand – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011. (16.8). Gooseberry, lantana and tropical fruit more typical of NZ than of the Adelaide Hills. Clean and fresh with more of the tropical notes on the palate. Smart wine with good persistence. Not overly complex.

Chapel Hill – Blend – Il Vescovo – 2011 (17). More reserved, but more interesting. Nutty, oily, textured and viscous. Savoury wine of some appeal that would suit food well.

Olssens – Pinot Noir – Nipple Hill – 2010 (17.4). More depth and structure here. Smart wine, with cherry and strawberry fruit, with savoury/sappy complexity underneath. Almost chewy, the finish is very good. Not a delicate wine, but one of much appeal. Well made, but straightforward.

Dominique Portet – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2008 (17.3). Dense fruit here. There is ripe plum notes, but no overripe/dead fruit characters. Pepper and spice over silky, supple fruit. Only medium bodied, but long and savoury finish.

Kingston Estate – Shiraz – Echelon – 2008 (18). A touch of menthol and cedar on the nose. The palate has pepper and spice to the max. Long and lean, the tannin structure is spot on. The oak is noticeable, but this will settle down. Fantastic fruit and great value.

Mario Marengo – Nebbiolo D’Alba – Valmaggiore – 2009 (17-5 – 18). They say these wines smell of tar and roses, and this has both. A lovely nose here. The palate is lovely. There are some ripe fruit characters, but the tar and floral notes come through in spades. This is long and savoury, though there is a degree of suppleness that is beguiling. Long and fine, this is a lovely wine.

Tenuta Di Capraia – Chianti Classico DOCG – Reserva 2007 (17.5). More depth to the nose. Hints of aniseed/licorice. The palate is finely structured and beautifully balanced. Excellent mouth feel and structure. Not a big wine, but all the better for it. A touch of savoury, medicinal flavours that add interest. Lively, fresh and well made. Good persistence.

Il Poggione – Brunello Di Montalcino – 2005 (17.9). Very savoury palate. Traditional style that is savoury, mouth-watering and leathery. This is all about texture and mouth-feel, with little in the way of primary fruit. Slightly chewy tannins to close. Long palate that demands aging or food. Long and dense, with deftly handled fruit.

Lamont’s Direct Imports

These wines are spectacular value. Both are available for $30 from Lamont’s. Mention this review and you may even get 13 to the dozen!

Salvapiana – Chianti Ruffino – 2008 (17 – 17.5). Limpid. Mot much on the nose, but the palate is a lovely blend of traditional characters and fresher fruit components. Savoury, medium bodied and medium weight.

Apartin – Barolo – 2006 (17.5 – 18). Lovely savoury aromas, but still with aniseed. Much more subdued and better balanced. Excellent structure and length. An excellent wine that is modern. I would like to see this again in a couple of months once it has settled down.

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

Lamont’s – Direct Imports

12 September 2010

Lamont’s in Cottesloe has received another shipment of imported wines. Apparently they are importing the wines direct from Europe, thus cutting out the middle-men. The prices range from good to excellent for the given quality, with the Italian selection being particularly good value.

Wines from Burgundy have become so expensive in general, that even at these ex-ship prices, they are quite pricey, though there is still some value to be found.

My picks include the Bonon – Meursalt, Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba, Araldica – Barbera d’Ast and the Arpatin – Barolo.

This was not a blind tasting, so I have tried not to be too generous with my points. With the reds, I could have been more generous with my points, but because we were only trying one or two wines from each style, I was conscious of the lack of perspective. Be assured that these are good wines.

Tasted

White Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Les Tillets – 2008 (17.8). Minerals to the fore, with complex almond meal, cashew nut and lemony oak. The palate is very rich and textured, with slightly honeyed fruit. The length is a highlight and the oak is not obtrusive. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Meursalt – Clos de la Velle – 2006 (17.9). Much finer and closed compared to the Bonin. Develops nutty fruit and minerals with air. In the mouth, this is creamy, seamless, textured and very fine indeed. The fruit is subdued. One for the purists! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots 1er Cru – 2006 (18.3). Lovely refined nose, with minerally, textural components overlaying curry leaf and creamy oak. The palate really builds in the mouth, but this remains very elegant and fine. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Charmes 1er Cru – 2007 (17.4). Interestingly, this has all the components of a good white burgundy, yet I preferred the Les Tillets! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Phillippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Les Pucelles 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Classic nose. Complex, yet refined, this is more restrained than some here. There is almond and apricot fruit notes intertwined with creamy textural components. The power on the palate is a revelation, yet this remains very fine and seamless. Superb wine! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18). From one of my favourite appellations. More peachy fruit on the nose, this is all about refinement. There is a minerality to the palate, with excellent balance and length. This is a very subtle wine. (Chardonnay).

Red Burgundy

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2008 (16.8). A good entry level burgundy, with simple fruit characters. The mouth-feel, fruit and texture are all good.

Domaine Philippe Livera – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2007 (17.9). More complex nose displaying plum, blueberry and earthy notes that combine well. Lovely fruit on the palate, and real depth. This is quite seamless, long and taught. A lovely example.

Domaine Humbert Freres – Gevery Chambertain – Poissenot 1er Cru – 2007 (18.2). Complex, but quite closed. Develops lovely perfumed fruit, reminiscent of violets. The palate is closed and tight, yet delicate and very fine. Superb length and texture, the refinement is the key.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Vosne Romanee – Les Suchots 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Complex and earthy, this has licorice, tar, cinnamon, spice and raspberry fruit. The fruit characters are more pronounced on the palate, with incredibly fine tannins. The oak has been absorbed by the fruit. This has superb length and depth, and the finish fans out across the palate beautifully.

Italian

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba – Superiore – 2008 (17). Lovely cherry fruit with tar and licorice on the nose. This is a fruit driven wine that is fresh, vibrant, juicy, soft and thoroughly refreshing. A modern style and great value.

Poderi Alasia – Barbera d’Asti – Rive (Il Cascinone) – 2007 (17.3). More savoury and earthy, with licorice, spice and lots of pepper. The palate is reminiscent of cool climate shiraz, with peppery fruit, that is long, textured and structured. There is leathery fruit to close.

Frascole – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.4). Cherry fruit to open, but briary and dense, with leather and spice. The palate is dominated by spicy fruit and drying tannins. A good example, and organic to boot!

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.8). More complex, with more fruit weight than the Frascole. This is very textured and structured in a traditional style where the fresh fruit notes are exchanged for mouth-feel and structure. Another organic wine, but this is crying out for food. Good value!

– d’Annona – Barbera d’Asti- 2007 (17.8). Wow – this has an exciting nose displaying cherry, tobacco, plums, cedar and anise. This keeps evolving. This is a powerful wine where fruit, oak and tannins combine to coat the palate with an amalgam of flavours and textures. Will be even better in a year or two.

Arpatin – Barbaresco – 2006 (17.5). More savoury, with real density. There is licorice all sorts on the nose. Typical of the style, this is textured and has really chewy tannins. Whist the tannins are fine, they are formidable. 10 years +.

Arpatin – Barolo – 2005 (17.8). Savoury, with dark fruits, cherry, coffee and tar. The palate is really dense and chewy. The tannins are finer than the Barbaresco. This is great value, but needs at least 10 years to show its best.

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Closed. Pristine fruit, silky tannins and excellent texture. Superb mouth-feel and tremendous depth, this is fine and dense. (Not cheap though).

Piedmont Reds

Reviewed: 15 September 2011

This is the second Piedmont tasting that I have written up in the last few weeks. This time the venue was Lamont’s in Cottesloe. A point of difference with this tasting was that I was not part of the tasting. Instead, I was helping out my friend John Jens by facilitating the tasting and pouring the wine.

Two of Perth’s most qualified Piedmont aficionados, Kristen McGann and Brendan Jansen, provided the excellent commentary that accompanied the tasting.

I managed to sneak a look at the wines and compiled the brief tasting notes below. More commentary on some of the wine can be found here.

NB. This was not a blind tasting.

Reviewed

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba DOC – 2008 – (16.7). Fresh, ripe and vibrant fruit showing cherry and spice. Acid a touch sharp, but nice fruit weight. Early consumption with or without food. (A bargain at $15).

D’Annona – Barbera d’Asti DOC – 2006 – (17.6). Greater colour and much more fruit intensity on the nose. This is quite a serious wine. Complex, with some new oak influence, the fruit is more in the dark spectrum. Very good!

Il Cascinone – Barbera d’Asti – Rive – 2007 (17.8). More perfumed than the Albas. Very silky. There is excellent structure and mouth-feel, though this needs several years to show its best. A serious wine.

Guiseppe Mascarello – Langhe Rosso – Barbera d’Alba – Santo Stefano – 2005 (17). Starts off quite closed. A more traditional style that is savoury and spicy. This will make a good foil for a light meal.

Bruno Giacosa – Dolcetto d’Alba – di Treiso – 2008 (16.7). Pretty wine. Floral and fragrant with gentle spicy notes. Quite straightforward on the palate, with a pleasant rounded finish. (16.7)

Guiseppe Mascarello – Langhe Rosso – Status – 2001 (17.5+). More red fruits. Quite rustic (authentic) palate where the fruit is subdued, but the textural components are the main contributors. Showing the benefit of a few years in the bottle, the length and mouth-feel are excellent. Received great support from many of the attendees.

Oddero Estate – Nebbiolo – Lange – 2007 (17+). Lovely perfume with cherry, Satsuma plum and some red berry notes that really add to the appeal. Dense and structured, with trademark nebbiolo tannins. Silky and supple, this will develop well over 5 years.

Arpatin – Barbaresco DOCG – 2006 (17.8). Feminine and seductive. There is a core of red fruits running through the nose, but there are lovely complex notes as well. The palate has souring fruit and very silky, supple tannins. This is complex, long and savoury. A really smart wine and outstanding value.

Castello di Verduno – Barbaresco – Rabaja – 2000 (18). Closed, and quite modern by comparison. A touch more primary fruit than the Apartin, but more angular and quite lean. Really evolves in the glass. Very long and structured, with excellent depth to the palate. Tannins a touch firm but will soften. Very youthful. One of the favourites of the tasting.

Bruno Giacosa – Barbaresco – Santa Stefano – 2007 (17+). An interesting blend of the last two. Savoury and long, with some herbal and menthol notes. A touch medicinal to close. Drinks well with air.

Arpatin – Barolo – DOC (18). Very clean and fresh. The quality of the fruit is exceptional. Subtle, fine-boned and elegant, this is a lovely wine. Real length and depth to the palate and the texture is a highlight. May not be “traditional” but it is extraordinary value. (Develops more traditional aromas with air).

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Again, a very refined, yet modern style. Silky, but with more of the sour cherry fruit characters. The finish is a touch tarry, and cries out for food. An excellent wine that would make an excellent introduction for palates raised on Australian shiraz.

Castello di Verduno – Barolo – Massara – 2004 (17.6). Souring fruit that is gentle and supple. Only medium bodied, but with excellent penetration on the palate. Very good drinking.

Luigi Einaudi – Barolo – 2004 (18.5). Quite closed, but the palate is amazing. Vibrant and powerful fruit that has cherry and tar. Very long, the fine tannins shut down the finish. Superb wine with a long future.