August 2021: New Releases

Barry Weinman: 23th August 2021

In what must surely be the most exciting news in Australian wine this year, Ross Pamment has taken on the role of Senior Winemaker at Sandalford. Given the mature vineyard holdings that Sandalford have, I am very keen to see the results.

Below is a cross-section of some of the more worthwhile wines that the panel reviewed over the last six weeks.

Reviewed

Ashbrook Estate – Margaret River – Verdelho – 2020. Comforting, user friendly and delicious. Bright tropical fruit, with gentle phenolics adding to the supple mouthfeel. 91pts – $27

Ashbrook Estate – Semillon – 2020. The nose is clean and fresh with lanolin and bitter almond highlights. The palate is textured, chewy, mouth-coating and long. Try food with a bit of spice or even chilli crabs. 91pts – $27

Ashbrook Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2019. Lanolin and lemon pith from the Semillon, with bright Sauvignon Blanc fruit adding the high notes. This is a delight to drink as the balance, texture, mouthfeel and length are all commendable. 91pts – $27

Faber – Frankland River – Malbec– 2020. Lots of minty eucalypt over red currant and blackberry fruit. The palate is very long, with a savoury texture and gently chewy tannins. Excellent oak use. This is quite robust in its youth, so drink it with rich food, or tuck it away in the cellar for the next 5-10 years. 92pts – $35.

Faber – Riche – Shiraz – 2020. Another delicious wine under this label. Here, the ripe fruit is combined with savoury tannins and gentle savoury oak. The freshness and balance make this a great early drink, but history suggests that this will be even better with 10 years in the bottle, given the depth of fruit on show. 93pts – $30.

Giant Steps – Fatal Shore – Pinot Noir– 2019. Pretty perfumed strawberry and cherry fruit the focus, yet there is depth and power sitting underneath. The textural components are aided by some whole-bunch ferment savoury characters. The palate is linear and a bit closed, but this will blossom with time in a decanter, or a few years in the cellar. 93pts – $75.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2018. Taut, with muted fruit, this is a restrained, cooler climate wine, with drying tannins adding texture. Cassis/blackcurrant fruit builds. This would work very well with food now but would benefit from 5 – 10 years cellaring. 93pts – $28.

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Chardonnay – 2019. Lithe and fresh, with restrained fruit and subtle winemaking. Complex, fine and elegant, there is subtle depth to the fruit. This may well be the sleeper of the tasting. Should open and build for a few years in the bottle. 93pts – $35.

Sandalford – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2019. An excellent wine, where the cassis/blackcurrant fruit is the focus, well supported by subtle French oak that adds a savoury lift. Decent density and power, yet with a silky texture that supports early consumption. Ultimately, the graphite-like tannins make their presence felt of the very close, so five years in the cellar should work a treat. 94pts – $22.

Trait – Chardonnay – 2020. A combination of savoury fruit and textural winemaking components, with a touch of struck match and flinty minerals. Feels like a Chablis, given the crispness of the palate and the retrained fruit. However there is excellent depth and density. Best in 3-5 years. A label to watch! 93+pts – $89.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017. Polished, dense and textured, though the fruit is a touch muted at present. Very structured and reserved. Bordeaux-like, and from a cool year, this requires a bit of faith and a lot of patience to see its best. But the outcome should be excellent once the perfumed fruit has a chance to open up. 94+pts – $85.

Peccavi Estate 2021 Release Highlights

Barry Weinman: 17^th August 2021

Peccavi Estate was founded by Jeremy Muller, as the culmination of a global search for an ideal vineyard location.

Muller purchased an established 16-hectare vineyard sitting in the Yallingup sub-region of Margaret River and set about adding new clones of Merlot to further improve the varietal composition.

With winemaking led by Bruce Dukes from Naturaliste Vintners, this is definitely a winery to watch.

Reviewed

Peccavi – Chardonnay – 2018. The rich fruit here is most appealing, with layers of medium toast oak adding depth and texture. The oak sits a little proud of the fruit initially, but this settles down quickly in the glass as the peachy fruit builds. Dense, serious and very long, this tastes expensive! 94pts – $65.

Peccavi – Chardonnay – 2019. A very well-made wine where the supple fruit really builds in the glass. The balance is a highlight, with the oak well matched to the fruit and the excellent acidity adding drive to the palate. The length of flavours and texture are a highlight. A cooler region, higher acidity style that will benefit from at least 3 – 5 years. Or drink it now with grilled prawns or a smoky eggplant dish. 95pts – $65.

Peccavi – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Great combination of ripe, elegant fruit and textural winemaking. The tannins are very fine, though prodigious, the fruit somewhat hidden on a very drying finish. But the potential is undeniable. Quality fruit and winemaking on show. 94+pts – $75

Peccavi – Syrah (Shiraz) – 2020. Brilliant purple colour! The cherry and plum fruit is bright and super fresh, with noteworthy intensity. The fruit really shines on the palate, supported by gently chewy textural notes and supple oak management. With excellent length of flavours, this lithe, supple, mid weight wine is a great drink, but is also sure to evolve for ten years if desired. 94pts – $55.

Vasse Felix New Releases for 2021.

Barry Weinman: 15^th August 2021

Virginia Wilcock and the team at Vasse Felix could never be accused of resting on their laurels. Vintage after vintage, Vasse Felix has produced superb wines at all price points. Yet each year, they look to make incremental changes to try and elevate each wine just that little bit more.

Recent changes have included:

• Replanting/grafting portions of the vineyard to varieties and clones better suited to the location
• Moving away from Merlot in favour of Malbec as the main blending partner for Cabernet
• Purchasing established vineyards south of Margaret River
• Establishing a sparkling wine brand under the Idée Fixé label

But perhaps the biggest changes have occurred in winemaking techniques, particularly for Shiraz. In 2019, a portion saw carbonic maceration and whole bunch fermentation to capture the vibrancy of the cooler vintage wine.

And overall, the wines have never looked better!

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Filius – Chardonnay – 2020. Ripe peach fruit the defining feature on the nose, with gentle oak and lees notes adding depth. The palate is savoury and quite complex, with subtle barrel ferment and lees characters and fine acidity complementing the fresh fruit notes. Excellent mouthfeel and texture to close. 93pts – $28

Vasse Felix – Filius – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This is a beautiful wine, with balance, poise and elegance that belies its entry-level status in the Cabernet range. Supple, near seamless and very long, the fine berry fruit builds, supported by subtle, savoury oak. The tannins add gravitas, without diminishing the fruit. Superb drinking now, or in 5-10 years. 94pts – $29

Vasse Felix – Shiraz – 2019. Fine, elegant and refined with superb cool-climate fruit on show. The fruit is very pretty, but the textural, savoury notes elevate this to another level. Seamless and supple, the feathery tannins build on the finish adding depth. Age-worthy and good value. 95pts – $37.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule – 2018. This is serious, structured, taut and closed. But the quality of the fruit and winemaking shines through with air. Silky and fine, the supple blueberry fruit is perfectly balanced by fine acidity and texturing oak. The addition of 8% Petit Verdot adding structure. At its best in 20 years, but magnificent drinking after a couple of hours in the decanter. What more could you ask for? 95-96pts – $47.

New Kid on the Block: Nikola Estate

I was saddened when Houghton closed down their Swan Valley operations and sold off the winery. So much of Western Australia’s winemaking history can be linked to the winery and the people who have worked there.

But commercial realities resulted in Houghton consolidating all WA winemaking to their facilities in Nannup.

This presented an opportunity for the Yukich family to step in and establish a new venture on the site. And so started Nikola Estate, named in honour of Nikola Yukich, who planted his first vineyard in the Valley in 1929, a few years after arriving in Australia from Croatia.

After the inaugural vintage (2019) was produced by sister winery Oakover, the 2020 vintage was produced on site by former Millbrook winemaker Damien Hutton.

With the financial backing of the Yukich family, Damien has a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to build a first-rate winemaking operation.

Early results look very promising!

Reviewed

Nikola Estate– Frankland River – Riesling – 2021. The bright lime-like fruit has a zesty tang with piercing acidity running the length of the palate. A very smart wine but needs a few months to settle down. 93+pts – $30.

Nikola Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2020. This is quite a complex wine. There is the grassy, herbaceous characters typical of the variety, followed by layers of winemaking inputs courtesy of subtle barrel ferment and lees contact. This is not for everyone, but it is an excellent example of the white Bordeaux style. 91pts – $21.

Nikola Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2020 . I like this a lot. Vibrant fruit with gentle floral aromatics. The palate is crisp and fresh, with textural components adding depth and mouthfeel. Long, gentle viscosity, but near seamless plate transition. Age-worthy to boot. Quality fruit. 92pts – $21.

Nikola Estate – Tempranillo – 2020. Fragrant, ripe and very pretty. The pure fruit continues on the palate, with the variety’s trademark gravelly tannins quickly building on the finish. Crianza in style, the oak adding savoury notes and texture rather than overt flavour. A great match for osso bucco but also worthy of a few years in the cellar. 93pts – $35.

Nikola Estate – Frankland River (white label) – Shiraz – 2020. What a lovely wine. Bright plum fruit with pepper and spice on the nose. The palate is fleshy and totally delicious. Soft, enveloping fruit, with gentle structure adding depth. A great drinking wine for a BBQ or pasta night. 93pts – $30

Spoilt for Choice: Shiraz and Friends

Barry Weinman: 5th August 2021

When it comes to Shiraz, Australia really is the lucky country! As a consumer, not only are we spoilt for choice when it comes to the different expressions of Shiraz, we are also blessed that there is extraordinary value to be had.

It is important to differentiate between value and affordability. If your budget is big enough, then wines like Hill of Grace and Grange represent excellent value when compared to the world stage (compared to Napa Valley Cabernet for example).

But for many of us, value and affordability both matter. A mid-week tipple needs to be affordable, whilst still delivering on quality. And here Shiraz can really shine, particularly from South Australia.

The 2019 Blackstone Paddock from Barossa is a great example. This Aldi exclusive is a steal at $18.

Whilst the Riverland is not as fashionable, Aldi’s 2019 Tudor Shiraz ($15) is a worthy successor to the 2018 that I reviewed recently. Brilliant quality for the price.

Whilst excellent cool-climate Shiraz tends to be more expensive, they do not have to break the bank. Seppelt’s 2018 Chalambar (from Victoria) is a cracker and can be picked up for as little as $20.

For an alternative to Shiraz, the 2019 Carmenere from Nucos is a delight to drink at $13 from Aldi. Carmenere is a lesser known Bordeaux variety that is now at home in Chile.

And dont forget to try the A.C. Byrne from Aldi. This sets the benchmark for own-brand wine bargains and must have the other supermarket chains scratching their heads in disbelief.

Reviewed

Blackstone Paddock – Barossa – Shiraz– 2019. The ripe fruit here is a knock-out. Supple, delicious and intense, with a savoury note and flinty minerality adding mouthfeel and depth. The quality oak adds layers of texture but does not diminish the joy of the fruit. Excellent drinking, but will benefit from cellaring. 95pts – $18 from Aldi.

Seppelt – Chalambar – Shiraz – 2018. Dense and savoury, with dark, plum-like fruit. Yet this is integrated and harmonious, with supple oak adding a silky sheen to the fruit. The mouthfeel is a treat, with near-seamless palate transition with feathery tannins fanning out across the finish. Medium term cellaring an option. 94pts – $30.

Tudor – Shiraz – 2019 . Dense and refined, yet bursting with vibrant red berry fruit over zesty white pepper with the gentle savoury oak adding depth and interest. Lithe, supple and lip-smackingly good. 92pts – $14 from Aldi.

A.C. Byrne & Co – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2019. Reflecting a cooler year, this is quite restrained, with the red currant fruit building in the glass. The quality of the fruit and winemaking is brilliant at this price. This would even benefit from a few years in the cellar. 91pts – $10.

Nucos – Vuelo – Carmenere– 2019. The fruit here is rich, ripe and dense. The palate is immensely satisfying, with a degree of silkiness to the fruit, decent weight and gravely tannins that add texture and depth. A great mid-week red from this underrated variety. 91pts- $13 from Aldi.

Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Shiraz– 2018. Lovely nose that is quite seductive. Ripe, supple, high-quality fruit has been paired with quality oak which adds both depth and savoury notes. The palate is plush, with supple, silky, berry fruit, fine tannins. Great drinking already. 93pts – #120.

V. E. Kraft – The Vineyard Architect – Shiraz/Mataro – 2017. Excellent depth and structure, yet the fruit is polished and refined. Savoury chocolate and coffee notes from the oak add interest, whilst the tannin grip adds depth and texture. Serious enough to be age-worthy, but approachable enough to be a great drink now. 93pts – $35

Taylors – Special Release – Shiraz – 2019. I like this. Bright, vibrant fruit combined with unobtrusive winemaking. There is plum, gentle spice and hints of pepper, with the fruit lingering admirably on the palate. The supple coffee-like oak adds depth and texture. Will be great with a bowl of pasta! 91pts – $15 from Aldi.

Bird in Hand – M.A.C. – Shiraz – 2013. Altogether more serious and interesting. Ripe fruit and bright American oak. This reminds me of high-quality Penfolds. Layers of complexity build on the finish, with tar, coffee, chocolate, and earthy notes. Immensely satisfying. 94pts – $375.

Pot of Gold: Australian Fortified Wines

Barry Weinman: 1st August 2021

Australian fortified wines are amongst the great bargains in the wine world. The price to quality ratio is right off the scale.

Wines come in a variety of styles, often dictated by the grapes that are used in the blend. The Australian Grape and Wine (https://www.agw.org.au/) Code of Conduct lists a number of different styles that are allowed including:

• Apera: Can range from dry and savoury to intense and very sweet
• Tawny: A combination of older and newer materials, often made from Shiraz
• Vintage: A fortified wine from a single year (Often Shiraz)
• Muscat: A fortified wine made from the Muscat grape
• Tokay/Topaque: A fortified wine made from the Muscadelle grape

Producers are able to differentiate the quality of their wines according to an industry-wide classification system. The first step up is Classic, followed by Grand and finally Rare.

With each step up the scale, there is an increase in intensity, complexity and age. Yes, the “Rare” wines can be very expensive, and are an incredible experience for those lucky enough to try them.

However, the real value lies with the Classic and Grand styles. That you can buy a truly excellent bottle of Classic Topaque or Muscat for around $30 is unbelievable value.

Reviewed

Faber – Liqueur Muscat – NV. Intense fruit, with gentle rancio characters on the nose. The palate is rich, viscous, complex, intense and textured, with caramel, coffee and chocolate notes.  Rich and rewarding and very very long, this is delicious. Not subtle, and all the better for it. 95-96pts – $60    

Stanton & Killeen – Classic Topaque – NV. Raisins, spice and gentle rancio leads to drying tea leaf notes and acidity. Viscous, mouth-coating and seamless, the addition of younger material giving freshness and balance. Evolves and lingers for what feels like minutes. 12-year average age. Warning: This is so easy to drink. 95+pts – $38 (500mls).

Morris – Classic Muscat – NV. This has a real wow factor. Rich toffee, coffee and caramel leads to a finish that is balanced, long, succulent and near seamless. Brilliantly made, using a blend of older and young material to maintain freshness. A delight to drink and outrageous value. 95pts – $25 (500mls).

De Bortoli – Show Liquor Muscat – NV. More raisin fruit with caramel and fig. The burnt toffee notes are attractive on the finish. Again, excellent balance and length. Acidity well judged, with more aged material. Seamless, almost endless palate is brilliant and intense. Spends an average of 8 years in barrel. 94+pts – $30 (500mls).

Morris – Classic – Topaque – NV. Bang! The intensity here is a wonderful assault on the nose. Caramelised sugar, treacle, raisins and a touch of tea leaf, with lifted acidity as a counterbalance. The palate is intense, yet with great balance. Not cloying, with moderate viscosity, the drying finish is a highlight. 93+pts – $25 (500mls)

Lamont‘s – Navera – NV. Olive rimmed colour. This is quite delicious. Yes, it is rich and viscous, but it is also alive and fresh. Complexity shows as toffee, tobacco, tea leaf and an aldehyde lift. Very satisfying and moreish. A blend of Muscats & Pedro Ximenez. 93pts – $35 (375mls).

Buller – Fine Old – Topaque – NV. Light amber colour. The nose here is fresh and vibrant, with gentle honey and nougat notes. The palate is clean and fresh, with caramel and nut notes and excellent viscosity balanced by excellent acidity. Just lacks the ultimate depth of the best. Super value. 92pts – $25 (750mls).

Buller – Fine Old Muscat – NV. Burnt toffee colour. More raisined, viscous and luscious, with excellent concentration and bright acidity to balance the sweetness. The length is commendable, with a touch of spirit on the close adding. Unctuous and irresistible. Outrageous bargain 92+pts – $25 (750mls).

A Year to Remember
Barry Weinman: 27th June 2021

Margaret River has been blessed with a seemingly never-ending run of very good vintages, starting with the 2007 vintage and continuing to this day. I am not aware of any other region globally that has ever been able to achieve this level of consistency!

But this success is not the whole story as there has been considerable vintage-to-vintage variation. However, modern viticultural practices and sensitive winemaking techniques have enabled the region as a whole to prosper.

2017 is an excellent example. After the warmer and drier than average 2016 vintage, 2017 was significantly cooler and wetter. This mandated significant work in the vineyard to ensure healthy ripe grapes were delivered to the winery.

And for many, the results were outstanding. More restrained and elegant, yet with perfectly ripe tannins. Different in style? Yes. But the quality of many of the top wines were outstanding and worthy of extended cellaring.

2018, by contrast was a winemaker’s dream. The warm (but not overly hot) weather continued right through to harvest, with no major rain events to worry about. Many are claiming that this is one of the greatest Margaret River vintages for Cabernet on record.

2019 was another cooler year where Chardonnay really shone.

And whilst most producers have already sold out of these vintages, Xanadu has just launched their premium wines and they are worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Chardonnay – 2019. This is impactful, powerful and intense, with nectarine and tropical fruit to the fore. High-quality oak/barrel ferment notes add the highlights, whilst lemon zest and fine acidity carry the very long finish. This is a statement wine that demands attention. 95pts – $80

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay– 2019. Fine and elegant with great poise. Yet there is tremendous depth and innate power sitting behind the peach-like fruit characters. The high-quality oak has been pared back, adding depth and texture without overly flavouring the wine. Zest builds on the very long finish. Outstanding. 96pts – $110

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is something of a gentle giant. There is powerful fruit, firm, structured oak and tannins, yet there is a warm heart nestling underneath all of the bravado. Opulent blackcurrant and eucalypt supported by graphite-like tannins and superb oak handling. Now – 20 years. 95pts – $80

The Duke Who Would be King

Barry Weinman: 12^th June 2021

Porongorup producer Duke’s has developed a reputation in recent years for making some of Australia’s best rieslings. The combination of high quality fruit and sympathetic winemaking by the talented Rob Diletti has proved a winner.

So I was delighted, but not surprised at the quality of the current release reds under the Magpie Hill Reserve Label. Both the Shiraz and Cabernet are superb, but what makes the wines stand out is the value that is on offer.

Priced around $40, the 2019 Cabernet in particular may be the best value Western Australian Cabernet on the market right now. The vineyard was planted in 1999 and is producing great quality fruit.

Following great reviews from Brendan Jansen _MW, I tried the Skigh Shiraz for the first time. Very impressive depth and power.

Aldi has another great value wine with the A.C Byrne and Co Chardonnay. A very drinkable wine for $13.

Reviewed

Duke’s – Magpie Hill Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Oh wow. The purity of the ripe fruit is quite breathtaking. Yet the fruit is very muted, cocooned in a blanket of fine fine tannins. With time and patience, this will transform into something beautiful, but you need to be patient to see it at its best. 96pts – $42

Duke’s – Magpie Hill Reserve – Shiraz – 2018. Strikingly vibrant colour. This is intense, powerful and quite beautiful. It is full of coffee and chocolate notes, with a hint of caramel, pepper and mint. But the dense ripe fruit is the main feature. Fine, elegant and even a touch reserved. Brilliant and age worthy. 18.5pts

Skigh – Abacus – Shiraz – 2019. Dense, powerful, cooler climate Shiraz that is taut and restrained. The ripe fruit has darker plum notes, supported by silky oak. But this needs a decade to really open up. 94pts – $45

Mount Langi Ghiran – Langi – Shiraz – 2018. Pretty berry fruit, fine structure and silky mouthfeel. Really complex, with liquorice, menthol, spice and pepper building on the palate. After a day in the bottle, this really blossomed. An outstanding wine 96pts+

Mount Langi Ghiran – Langi – Shiraz – 2017. A bit of wow-factor going on here. Pretty berry and cherry fruit up front, but then this gets quite dark and savoury in the mouth with tobacco leaf and cedary notes. The quality is palpable. In this elegant, cooler climate wine that offers great drinking pleasure now, but is also good for medium term aging. Improved greatly with air. 94-95pts.

Bowen Estate – Shiraz – 2018. Classic Coonawarra Shiraz. Mint and eucalyptus over fragrant cherry and plum fruit. The finish is long and fine, defined by the graphite-like tannins, and savoury notes. The texture is a highlight having a lot in common with fine Pinot Noir. 94pts

Simple Chicken Curry (Serves 4 people)

Barry Weinman

Prep time: 15 Minutes
Cooking time: 90 minutes

This really is the easiest of recipes, is healthy and delicious, and takes almost no effort. And the ingredients are straight from the supermarket. The only proviso is that it is best to cook this the day before, to allow the flavours to infuse the meat.

I have used thigh fillets in this recipe for convenience, but at home, I tend to cut up whole birds, as this allows me to make stock with the bones.

Pre-made curry powders typically have chilli in them, so I substitute in some extra cumin and coriander powder to boost the flavours without adding extra heat. Feel free to add more or less spice to suit your taste.

And given how well this keeps, I usually make a double quantity and pop some in the freezer.

Ingredients
1kg Chicken Thigh Fillets – Free range if possible
1 large onion – diced
1 sprig curry leaf (Optional)
2 heaped teaspoons Spencer’s curry powder
2 heaped teaspoon cumin powder
1.5 heaped teaspoon coriander Powder
2 cloves garlic – chopped
1 teaspoon of chopped ginger
1 rounded teaspoon of salt (or to taste)
4 teaspoons white vinegar (or to taste)
Generous glug of canola oil to fry

Method

• Fry onion, ginger and curry leaf in canola oil until softened and translucent.
• Add all other ingredients except chicken and stir to combine
• Add chicken and stir to combine
• Gradually bring to a boil and turn down to a very gentle simmer with the lid on
• Cook for 60 – 90 minutes until tender
• Adjust salt and vinegar to taste
• Skim oil from surface if required

To serve, garnish with fresh coriander or spring onion (optional), accompanied by steamed rice.

Notes

• Cut larger pieces of chicken in half
• There is no need to add any liquid. This will come out of the chicken
• Curry leaf is really optional. The flavour is very subtle and unlikely to be noticed anyway
• For a more intense flavour, cook with the lid off for 30 minutes to allow some of the liquid to evaporate.
• I prefer the flavours of Naked chicken, but any good quality free range chicken will be fine

Winter Warmers

Barry Weinman: 3^rd June 2021

With the change in the weather, my mind automatically drifts to bigger, richer reds to drink with a hearty winter casserole or a comforting curry.

There is a lot of hesitation when it comes to selecting a wine to serve with spicy food. The fear is that the food will overpower the wine, reducing the enjoyment.

But I think it is important to differentiate between spice and chilli. There is no doubt that fiery food is a problem. Indeed, when the chilli is turned up, I have trouble tasting the food, let alone the wine that is accompanying it.

But spice is a different matter. We eat a lot of home-cooked curries, rich in flavour but with only a hint of chilli in the background. I also look for cleaner, fresher characters, avoiding the use of coconut cream and adding fresh herbs (coriander/spring onion) just before serving. You can get my recipe here.

The complex flavours of the dish can work brilliantly with a richer red, especially one with bottle age.

As much as I love Margaret River Cabernet, something a bit bolder in flavour would be my choice.

Barossa Valley is a great place to start. Welland is not a wine that I am overly familiar with but with access to excellent old-vines fruit and a skilled winemaking team, they are worth seeking out.

But dont rule out something crisp and aromatic like a Swan Valley Verdelho!

Reviewed.

Welland – Old Hands – Shiraz – 2018. Impenetrable colour in the glass. Sweet, ripe old-vines fruit and supple (American) oak are the key here, with polished tannins and acid providing structure and balance. Layers of spice sit in the background of what is a dense, complex and very fine wine. 95-96pts – $70

Welland – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Mint, menthol, eucalypt, this has Cabernet written all over it, in a different expression to Margaret River. With power, intensity, beautifully ripe fruit, this reminds me of something from the Penfolds stable but at an affordable price. Not quite seamless, but excellent drinking. 94pts – $30

Nikola Estate – Verdelho – 2020. The first wine I have tried from the new owners of the Houghton winery in the Swan Valley, and it is a cracker. Fresh talc and floral notes that are pretty and delicate. Fine acidity adds life to what is a charming wine. 92pts.