A multi-axial approach towards understanding the (red) wines of Burgundy

Brendan Jansen MW

24^th September 2020

The wines of Burgundy can be as seductive and beguiling as they can be confusing. This small plot of land – with the Cote D’Or comprising only about 13,000 hectares as compared to Bordeaux’s over 120,000 hectares – is infused with wine history and intrigue. The still wines of Burgundy, of both red and white incarnations, are widely viewed as the most wonderful in the world of wine. Winemakers around the world aspire to produce wines that can come close to rivalling the best Burgundy has to offer.

Much of the mystique around Burgundy stems from the in-depth analysis and classification in the region, pioneered by Cistercian monks over centuries, adding at once both a stamp of authority and an air of opacity.

I, too, have fallen victim to Burgundy’s charms, and I, too, have sought to understand this ever-changing, complex and multi-faceted area.

I do not pretend to be a Burgundy expert – far from it, in fact. I believe that to truly understand Burgundy one has to live and breathe the place, and preferably live and breathe IN the place – as do the likes of Jasper Morris MW and Clive Coates MW.

Yet I have found a formula that I believe assists, and am bravely sharing it.

A quick word on the term “multi-axial”: I borrow it from my psychiatry roots, where, in the American Psychiatric Association’s Diagnostic and Statistical Manual (DSM), diagnoses were, up to the most current fifth edition, spread across five axes. The intention was to highlight the complexities of psychiatric formulation, by making specific reference in the final assessment of such elements as global functioning, psychosocial stresses, personality style, and organicity.

Translating that to the Burgundian setting, I have come to appreciate that certain variables are important, and act somewhat independently from others, yet contribute to the complex “formulation” of the wine. In Burgundy (as in other areas wherein small lots and artisanal holdings predominate, as in Piedmont, Italy) these axes are those of

• Vintage
• Commune
• Quality level, and
• Producer

VINTAGE

Taking each of these in isolation, vintage variation continues to be a major factor influencing both yield and quality in Burgundy, despite the irrefutable march of climate change. While global warming continues, the presence of extreme weather events continues to haunt Burgundian vignerons, especially the curse of hail.

There are perhaps several points to be made about vintage – firstly, increasingly important has work in the vineyard become. Aggressive foliage management, disease control, frost mitigation and yield adjustment can result in very sound wines. Moreover, poorer vintages may bring out larger variations in communal terroir than “good” vintages. (Of course, vintages rated poor for white wines might not be so for red, and vice versa.) Further, hyperlocal variation in weather events can be evident from village to village, vineyard to vineyard, even row to row.

Very reliable vintage charts are widely available, and represent a dependable and accessible resource. I use those available on JancisRobinson.com.

COMMUNE

Provenance is another important axis. Broadly speaking, the Cote de Beaune reds are less muscular and sinewy that those of the Cote de Nuits. There are of course, exceptions. Volnay and Pommard abut each other in the Cote de Beaune, but the ferric content in the Pommard soils leads to much more tannic wines. Likewise, in the Cotes de Nuits, wines from Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanee are softer and more perfumed than the more brooding wines of Gevrey Chambertin. Other appellations are “midway”, and the characters of their wines in part depend on where in the commune the vines sit geographically.

QUALITY DESIGNATION

Quality levels – from AOC Bourgogne, up to Village wines, to Premier Cru and then Grand Cru status – offer an in-built system by which we Burgundy lovers can obtain direction. Quality classifications may be similar in different communes, but objective overall quality is not easily comparable. Consider a Premier Cru wine from a well-known appellation such as Vosne Romanee as compared to, say, one from lesser renowned Beaune or Fixin. Nonetheless, these quality levels reflect longstanding acknowledgement of the superiority of some sites within the appellation – due to soil, aspect, terroir….

PRODUCER

Finally, there is the axis of Producer, which can be code for “care in the vineyard” and/or “winemaking techniques”. In regard to the latter – there are as many formulae touted for making the best red Burgundy wines as there are producers. Variations include the inclusion of stems or whole bunches, the pre and post maceration regime (if any), the temperature of fermentation, the type of, and treatment with, oak, to name but a handful of the myriad that exist. Winemaking can of course vary from year to year in the same producer, and aspects such as the degree of protective handling and cleanliness in the winery come into play.

Winemaker variables explain, for example, why two wines from a particular vintage, and particular appellation, and even particular vineyard, can command vastly different prices. Some winemakers develop a cult status, ensuring prices of their best wines are astronomical, and out of reach to most.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

How does this multiaxial approach assist the average consumer? Price can assist, as broadly speaking, two wines that cost, say A$150 each will have a similar objective quality level, irrespective of producer, quality designation or commune. But going beyond that, I hope the axes mentioned above can help.

An understanding of vintage conditions is a good start. Quality designations, too, are a quick and easy guide.

If, for example, you discover that you love the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, you might seek out a bargain from close by Fixin. Likewise, Puligny Montrachet and St Aubin.

If you prefer more perfumed and less tannic wines, you may stick with the communes of Chambolle Musigny, Volnay or Vosne Romanee.

If you discover that you adore the winemaking style of certain producers, be they more rustic and savoury or more modern, using more or less new oak – stick with them, or seek out producers with a similar style.

A new up-and-coming producer you have discovered might not have hit Rockstar status (yet), making his or her wines more accessible.

A wine from a great producer from a lesser vintage frequently delivers a very pleasant surprise.

HAPPY HUNTING!

Brendan Jansen MW

Clive Otto and the wines of Fraser Gallop

Brendan Jansen MW: 15^th August 2020

After working at Vasse Felix winery from 1989 to 2006, Clive Otto joined Fraser Gallop wines. This is his 14^th year at the helm as chief winemaker. All of Clive’s wines, even those that he makes for other growers in Margaret River, have his stamp of elegance and understated austerity.

The benefits of working in a single vineyard site such as Fraser Gallop is that Clive can essentially use the same winemaking techniques for each of his wines – for example employing wild yeast ferments and the same coopers each year – so that vintage variation can easily be evident.

There are three “levels” of Fraser Gallop wines – the Estate, Parterre and Palladian – each offering excellent value for money.

I attended a tasting at Lamont’s Cottesloe hosted by Clive and tasted the following wines:

Fraser Gallop – Estate – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2019

Reflective of the cool vintage, this was fresh but has a palate feel suggesting time on lees and perhaps a barrel component. 70% Semillon, I daresay this will age well for another 5 years +.  17.5/20

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Semillon Sauvignon – Blanc – 2018

From the warmer 2018 vintage, 54% Semillon. Whole bunch pressed to barrel, with use of 500l puncheons and 265l long barrels (akin to pipes) to maximise effects of 9 months on lees. Superb depth. Ageworthy. 18/20

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay – 2014

Despite bottle-age quite youthful, opened nicely, gentle palate. Light toast Burgundian oak well integrated. 17.5/20

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay 2018

Tropical fruit and zesty acidity come to the fore here, with warmer vintage showcasing the Gin Gin clone. Malolactic avoided, both puncheons and barriques employed, 30% new, grapes refrigerated before pressing. Intense flavours. 17.5/20

Fraser Gallop – Palladian – Chardonnay – 2018

Only 2 puncheons made each year. Specific vineyard selection of east-west rows, on gravel soil. Different tone to this wine – deeper, superb mouthfeel. More toasty oak evident giving spicy even peppery edge. 18/20

Fraser Gallop – Rose – 2018

This was made from Chenin Blanc (55%) and Muscat Rouge a Petits Grains (45%). Ultra-dry, ultra-pale, minerally and fruity at the same time. I actually think that one could treat this like a white wine and age it for a few years. 17.5/20

Fraser Gallop – Rose – 2020

More in a Provencal style, again ultra-pale and dry, this was made from Shiraz grapes. 17/20

Fraser Gallop – Estate – Cabernet Merlot – 2018

Hand-picked, destemmed, no crushing, whole berry cold soaked, with Clive’s signature combined plunging and pumping over technique. Superb colour, Margaret River faithful, and perhaps best quality-for-price ratio. 18.5/20

Fraser Gallop – Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017

More structured and Bordelais, reflecting Clive’s experiences in Pichon Baron. Grapes were crushed and a warmer ferment used, with more traditional barrel-to-barrel racking. One for classical palates. 18/20

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017

Open fermenter, hand plunged, then transferred to barrel to complete fermentation, portion of new oak. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, with licks of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Concentrated and “serious”, will evolve for over 10 years. 18/20

Fraser Gallop – Palladian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016

The best rows of Cabernet Sauvignon – 100% destemmed with cold soak, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% new French oak barrel-fermented, and 100% delicious! A wine of class and aristocracy! 18.5/20

Brendan Jansen MW

Riesling: Southern Exposure

Barry Weinman: 15^th August 2020

At the end of a 25-wine tasting of very high-quality Riesling, I found myself reflecting on just how much I enjoyed the tasting. This was due to a number of factors.

To start with, there was the purity of fruit, approachability of the wines and sheer quality of winemaking on show.

I was also enjoying that my palate felt refreshed in a way that would never happen with Cabernet, Shiraz or Sauvignon Blanc for example.

There was also the fact that Western Australia is producing great Rieslings from across the Great Southern.

And that there is something extra special about the Rieslings from the Porongurups. The wines seem to express themselves a little differently to their Frankland cousins, being a little finer, taking on an almost ethereal character that defies description.

This was particularly evident with Howard Park and Cherubino, where their Porongurup offerings were clearly preferred by the panel. Great for current drinking, but also very age-worthy.

Yet the wines from Mt Barker held their heads up high, particularly the block wines from Forest Hill.

There is also something different about Riesling when it comes to value. With wines like the Gilberts Riesling selling for little more than $20, they are no brainers. Even the very best of the wines reviewed sell for less than $50 and represent great buying!

Finally, it was great to be able to compare and contrast these wines to those from Clare and Eden Valley, the spiritual homes of Australian Riesling. The 2019 Leonay did not disappoint!

Reviewed:

Duke’s – Riesling – Magpie Hill Reserve – 2019 (18.8/20pts). This has a real wow factor. An combination of minerality, subtle spice and lemony fruit. The palate is sublime with great balance and seamless palate transition. Will reward cellaring if you can stop yourself from drinking it now.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Leonay – 2019 (18.7/20pts – $40). A lovely mix of steely notes and gentle floral and citrus characters on the nose. The palate is restrained and taut, with fine, neutral acidity and a finish that feels bone dry. Great balance, with subtle depth and power, and seamless palate transition. A brilliant wine that will blossom with age. An icon!

Gilberts – Riesling – 2019 (18/20pts – $24). I like this, as it was the most approachable wine of the tasting yet has excellent lime-like fruit that is fresh and bright. Gentle, texturing phenolics and subtle viscosity add mouthfeel, with the zippy, balancing acidity carrying the finish. Great value and capable of some bottle age if desired.  From Mt Barker.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2019 (18.5/20pts – $35). Zesty and racy, with lime acidity, steely fruit notes and a touch of perfumed talc. The palate is concentrated and powerful, with lemony fruit building on the finish. The fruit quality is a highlight though this needs a few years to hit its straps.

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2019 (18.6/20pts- $39). A fragrant, pretty and almost ethereal wine where the citrus-like fruit is subdued. However the quality is palpable on the very fine, restrained palate. The finish is quite silky, yet the minerality and texture a highlight. With air, the fruit really builds intensity and lingers, so time in the cellar recommended.

Cherubino – Riesling – Mt Barker – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $35). Fragrant, intense and powerful fruit up front. But then the acid kicks in and leaves the palate drier than the Simpson desert. Powerful, impactful and age worthy, this really opens up in the glass. An excellent wine with great balance, but needs a few years to show its full potential.

Castle Rock – Riesling – 2019 (18.5/20pts – $25). Taut, youthful and athletic, this is sinewy and lean with deceptive power. There are lemony citrus notes and fine acidity and gentle phenolics that add depth and texture.  This is an excellent wine, but it really needs a few years to open up and build some flesh.

Forest Hill – Riesling – Block 2 – 2018 (18.3/20pts). A reserved style that has a steely minerality. The palate is packed with lime and fine, piercing acidity.  This is made for the long haul. Despite being closed and tight, it is very impressive all the same. The off-dry finish adds to the palate feel. From a vineyard planted in 1975.

Dr. Loosen – Riesling – Kabinett – Wehlener Sonnenuhr – 2016 (18.3/20pts – $36). A different style that is aromatic and perfumed with musk, sherbet and a touch of lemonade. The palate is vibrant and delicious, with superb acid balance. Being off-dry and lower in alcohol, this is so easy to drink now. A thrilling wine.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Isolation Ridge – 2018 (18/20). More approachable with the aromatic fruit on the nose a highlight. Hints of pineapple, tropical fruit, and lanolin, with vibrant citrus notes flooding the palate. The texture on the finish is noteworthy. A great drink now, but sure to age well in the medium-term. Points for drinking well now.

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – The Contours – Museum Reserve – 2014 (18.5+/20). The concentrated fruit has a steely component and is taking on the first signs of bottle age. The palate is intense and powerful, with gentle toast notes building. The depth of flavours is a revelation, building in layers on the palate. The acid is firm and taut, leaving the finish very dry. An excellent wine that gives a glimpse as to how Rieslings age.

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2019 (18.2/20pts). An intense, high acid style that is powerful but a touch subdued at present. Age worthy.

Ad Hoc – Riesling – Wallflower – 2019 (17.8/20pts – 21). I like the balance here. Lemony fruit with hints of musk combine with fine, refreshing acidity. The gentle phenolic texture adds to the appeal. A touch dumb in the mid palate now, but there is excellent length on the close.

Shepard’s Hut – Riesling – Porongurup – 2019 (17.7/20pts). Fresh citrus with floral talc aromas. The palate is lithe, fresh and near seamless. Restrained and fine, yet there is decent depth. A touch of minerals and fresh lime juice round out the package.

Penfolds Collection: 2020 Release

Barry Weinman: 31^st  July 2020

Penfolds is a brand that needs no introductions. From the humble Koonunga Hill through to Grange, generations of Australians have built their cellars around these iconic wines.

The wines are reliable year in and year-out, but in the good years, they take on a special quality.

So the launch of a new vintage is something to get excited about, especially when the vintages concerned (2016 – 2018) were all very good years in South Australia.

To celebrate the 2020 release, I tasted a few of the wines, and was left profoundly impressed. The Bin 28 and Bin 389 are excellent, whilst the St Henri is a truly outstanding wine.

The surprise of the tasting was the 2019 Bin 311 Chardonnay – a beautiful expression of cool climate Chardonnay.  The Bin 19A Chardonnay was even better, similar to the profound 2017.

I have a growing respect for McLaren Vale Cabernet, and I was interested to note this featuring in Bin 707, Bin 389 and Bin 407.

Prices for the Bin wines continue to creep up, but, in the context of Australian wine, remain fairly priced.

What about Grange? For the elite few who can afford to buy (and drink) this wine, Peter Gago is comparing it to the great 1986 and 1996. An iconic wine with a price and pedigree to match.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2019 (18.5/20pts – $50).  Perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas are supported by gentle pineapple, lemon pith and grapefruit notes. The palate has laser-like precision, with elegant fruit the star. Oak and lees work add depth and texture without impeding the flavour profile. Develops minerality and complex lees/barrel ferment aromas and curry leaf with air. Quite beautiful.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 28 – 2018 (18.6/20pts – $50).  Intense, powerful and very long, with a degree of suppleness that is irresistible. The plum/berry fruit is vibrant and supple, with fine tannins masking its full effect just now. Savoury, with refreshing acidity, this is quite delicious, but is capable of aging for at least 20 years. The most complete wine in the line-up right now.

Penfolds – Cabernet/Shiraz – Bin 389 – 2018 (18.7/20pts – $100). Vibrant colour and a nose that is supple, succulent and refined, showing perfumed blueberry fruit, with gentle mint highlights. The concentration of fruit is a highlight, as are the very fine savoury notes courtesy of the oak and fine tannins on a long, silky finish that is refined and polished. Needs years yet drinking well now.

Penfolds – Shiraz – St Henri – 2017 (18.8/20pts – $135). Quite closed, with intense fruit and savoury menthol and dried herb notes. With air, the precise fruit gets better and better. The palate is outstanding. The fruit stunningly concentrated, yet remarkably elegant and refined. The velvety tannins build ultimately shutting down the fruit on the close. Balanced, long and extremely age-worthy, this is a great wine!

The Many Faces of Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 30^th July 2020

When I think of versatile red grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon does not normally spring to mind. Shiraz, after all, is the ultimate chameleon, thriving in all but the very coolest vineyards in the country.

Whilst Coonawarra is perhaps the spiritual home of Cabernet in Australia, Margaret River is, for me at least, the reigning king of Cabernet production.

But looking a bit further afield, there are a number of regions producing very fine Cabernet. In South Australia for example, Barossa, Clare Valley and even McLaren Vale can produce excellent wines. Each region has a slightly different take on the style.

This week, I have reviewed a number of quite different styles, including two from the same producer. The Pedestal, Peos Estate and Higher Planes are all notable for offering excellent value. The Higher Planes is also noteworthy for being a 2014 vintage.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Davey Estate – 2018 (18/20pts). Intense blackcurrant fruit with hints of mint and menthol. Very fine and polished tannins and supple oak and silky texture add to the appeal. Now – 10 years+.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block Reserve – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $60). Fragrant and attractive, with intrinsic power to the ripe blackcurrant fruit. Souring cherry-like acidity and fine tannins build on the close, complemented by quality oak.  A serious wine that will be long lived, but its immediate appeal makes this hard to resist.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2017 (18.5+/20pts). Initially shy and restrained, building bright blueberry fruit and even a touch of violets building with air. The palate is taut, dense and restrained with a core of ripe fruit that slowly builds. The tannins and oak are not obvious but make their presence felt in the way the fruit is shut down on the close. Potential.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.5/20pts – $40). The nose is quite seductive, the fine fruit perfumed and redolent of ripe berries and cassis. The palate is most beguiling, with mint, gentle eucalypt and a hint of dried herbs. The finish is ultimately shut down by the very fine tannins and oak, yet remains near seamless. Good value.

Peos Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Four Aces – 2018 (18.5/20pts – $35). A real surprise package that is supple, restrained, elegant and fine. This is tight and dense with very polished tannins and fine-grained French oak (50% new), leaving the fruit a little subdued at first. With air though, the blackcurrant fruit starts to shine. With only two barrels produced, this is a great effort from this Manjimup producer.

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018 (18.4/20pts – $25). Clearly different to most here, in that this wine is all about immediate pleasure. Builds layers of rich, ripe fruit that are supple and deliciously succulent. Excellent texture and oak to close. Not as serious as the big boys but gets big points for being a great drink.

Chardonnay: July 2020

Barry Weinman: 18^th July 2020

I am a huge fan of Riesling, a variety that can also claim the title of best value white wine in Australia. But in the cooler months, Chardonnay is my go-to white.

With the temperature in the cellar approaching fifteen degrees, this is a little too cold to get the most out of a decent Cabernet or Shiraz. The cooler temperatures tend to suppress the fruit characters, which can sometimes make the wines look a little unbalanced.

Worse still, serving them too cold can suck the joy out of the wine, making for a less than ideal experience.  And it is unlikely to warm up much with an hour or two on the kitchen bench.

Fifteen degrees is, however, an excellent temperature to drink Chardonnay. But this comes with a caveat: make it a good one. Lesser quality whites are best served well chilled, as this masks some of the less desirable characters.

Obviously in summer, the wine is going to warm up in the glass, necessitating more time in the fridge, but mid-winter, this is not an issue (in my house at least).

In my experience, better quality Chardonnay can really express its character as it warms up in the glass. If it feels a little too warm, then a short stint in the fridge will do the trick.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Gingin – Wilyabrup – 2019 – (18.3/20pts – $39). Complexity here is a feature. Creamy lees and barrel work, supple oak and ripe stone fruit all express on the nose. The palate is intense, powerful and very long, with the supple texture a highlight, courtesy of very fine, tight grain oak. Delicious and almost seamless, with grapefruit acidity to close.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Margaret River – 2019 (18.5/20pts – $60). Pretty floral notes with depth and intensity to the fruit and just a touch of caramel oak and lees. Power builds on the palate and is most impressive. The oak has been subsumed by the fruit contributing to the near seamless palate transition. A potent wine that needs a year or two to settle.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Laissez Faire – 2019 (18.5/20pts – $39). Pretty, perfumed, focussed, fine and intense. The powerful, yet sublime fruit has clear cool region characters and grapefruit acidity. The clever oak and lees work add to the appeal. Gets extra points for drinkability, as this is delicious straight out of the bottle.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Dijon – 2019. (18.5+/20pts – $45). Opens with complex, struck match and flint notes courtesy of the vanillin oak and supple lees work. The palate shows ripe stone fruit over complex yet supple worked characters and is very long and intense. Beautiful mouthfeel, with gentle toast from the oak and fine grapefruit acidity. Will be even better with a year or two in bottle.

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – Block 8 – 2016 (18/20pts – $50). A viscous, textured wine, where the toast from the oak is a little more obvious at present but this should settle in the bottle. The intense, pristine fruit is at the core of this wine with impressive depth and power. This is a powerful wine that demands attention.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Allingham – 2018 (18.3/20pts). Rounded and balanced, with subtlety, elegance and finesse.  Long and very fine with pristine acidity, this is remarkably good drinking right now.  However there is an intensity to the fruit that suggests that this will improve over the next 3 – 5 years at least.

Shingleback – Chardonnay – Red Knot – 2019 (17/20pts – $15). Pristine, fine fruit that is redolent of peach and nectarine, complemented by fragrant vanillin oak notes. The palate is bright, and fresh, with gentle lees and malolactic fermentation notes. Straightforward? Sure, but this is an eminently drinkable wine and great value at $15.

Faber Vineyard: Celebrating 20 years of Riche Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 16^th July 2020

John Griffith established Faber in 1997 after a very successful six-year stint at Houghton.

At Faber, the aim is to craft the best wine possible from grapes most suited to the region in which they are grown. In the Swan Valley, John believes this is Shiraz, Verdelho and Muscat (for fortified wines).

Reflecting the warmer climate, the wines at Faber are rich and generous, with excellent balance and texture. They are not made to meet the whims and fashion of wine show judges, they are made to provide maximum drinking pleasure for the consumer.

The Riche Shiraz typifies this approach yet, as this tasting highlighted, they are also capable of extended aging. The fruit comes from the Faber and Millard vineyard, and interestingly, is also used for the Reserve Shiraz.

On arrival in the winery, a portion of the juice is bled off and sold to others. The remaining juice is fermented on skins in open top fermenters for ten days. At the end of this time, 2/3 of the juice (free run) is taken off for use in the Riche, with the pressings being used for the Reserve.

The Riche spends ten months in oak, of which 25% is new American. This adds supple texture and depth to the delicious fruit. We tasted all 20 vintages ever made, starting with the 2001 and finishing with a barrel sample of the 2020.

The highlights were the 2004, 207, 2009 and 2013 – 2015. And watch out for the 2020!

My points are mainly to rank the wines. It is always a little hard to be totally objective in this type of tasting.

Reviewed:

2001

Leather and spice notes, over still ripe, succulent cherry and plum fruit and hints of cinnamon. Succulent, bright, elegant and delicious. The acid balance is a highlight. 18/20pts

2002.

Cedar and cinnamon spice. Still shows bright fruit, though the oak sits a little proud on the close. Drying finish. Best with food. 17

2003

Fresh and supple. The fruit almost delicate, with hints of ripe satsuma plum, and fine, feathery acid to close. This is refined and elegant wine drinking at its peak. 17.8 /20pts

2004

A step up in both depth and density of fruit. The berry fruit notes are pristine and primary, with excellent length and mouthfeel. The acid and tannins have softened enough to make this a great drink, but this has years ahead of it. The vanillin oak has been absorbed by the fruit, adding depth and supple texture notes on the close. 18.3/20pts

2005

Firm acidity and tannins a feature here. This is a rich, robust wine that has layers of chocolatey fruit and excellent length. I prefer the balance of the 2004, but this is a good drink all the same. 18/20pts

2006

A very different style that has cooler, more elegant fruit and finer acid structure. Feels like the winemaking has been pared back a little to allow the fruit to be the focus. Great with food now, but will continue to develop for some time. 18/20pts

2007

Wow. Rich, ripe and succulent with layers of dense fruit. Chocolate, plum and hints of liquorice all build. The texture and mouthfeel are a highlight. A cracking wine that has years ahead of it. And delicious to boot. 18.5/20pts

2008

The oak here is a little more apparent, while the palate is defined by dark chocolate and spice. Not sure here. May get better as the fruit opens up. But drying tannins keep the finish subdued. 17.7/20pts

2009

This is a delicious wine. There’s a touch of menthol and pepper, reflective of the cooler year, and pretty, fragrant fruit that is elegant and balanced. This is most approachable, with the fine tannins gradually building on the finish. Yet this is also age worthy. 18.5/20pts

2010

Purple colour. Supple and balanced, with excellent fruit weight and fine tannins. Not overly dense, which adds to the immediate appeal. My pick for a Sunday BBQ lunch. 17.5/20pts

2011

More spice here. Fresh, vibrant, silky, lovely plummy fruit and a touch of menthol. Again, this is not about raw power, but more elegance and refinement, with the oak and tannins supporting the fruit nicely. Very youthful, with a touch of coffee on the close. 18.3/20pts

2012

Wow. This is higher impact, with ripe fruit flooding the palate, combined with cedary oak that adds depth. Long and mouth-filling, yet only medium bodied. A delicious, spicy wine that could be drunk with pleasure now – 10 years. 18/20pts

2013

Chocolate, plum, blueberry and spice. The palate is rich, textured and with greater fruit density than the 2012. The power here is more obvious and, whilst delicious, this is one for the cellar. 18.5/20pts

2014

White pepper, cinnamon: Wow. This is a luscious, powerful and delicious with layers and layers of fruit. Super structure, long, powerful, inherently drinkable, but really needs another 5 – 10 years to really hit its straps. 18.6/20pts

2015

Fine, closed, firm, textured. Everything in place but needs years to come around.  Hints of chocolate and spice. Fine oak, fine tannins, great mouthfeel. Will be a star. 18.5

2016

Lighter style, with more approachable fruit and supple oak. An earlier drinking style that is the perfect mid-week wine. 17.5/20pts

2017

Quite closed initially, but with air, this really builds. Ripe fruit, supple oak, texturing tannins and spicy, vanillin notes. The fruit gains depth and density in the glass, leading to a very long close. Cracking wine 18.5/20pts

2018

Opens with some cooler, almost herbal notes and just a touch of tomato leaf up front. Give it some air though and the ripe, plummy fruit starts to shine. The palate is dense and textured, with spicy oak adding to the appeal. Whilst supple, round and balanced, this needs a few years to hit its straps. (18+/20pts – $27).

2019

Initially very closed on the nose, but gets perfumed, pretty and fragrant with air. The fruit on the palate is a delight, with ripe plum and blueberry, and delicious spicy undertones from the oak. The fine tannins ultimately shut down the fruit, so bottle ageing is recommended. Or try with a juicy steak now. (18.2/20pts – TBC).

2020

Barrel sample. Purple, pretty, powerful, dense and textured, with supple oak already integrated. An amazing wine that may be one of the great bargains when it is released.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2017 (18.7/20pts – $65). Closed and restrained, but this is clearly a brilliant wine. Dense and textured, with high quality new French oak in support. The balance is a highlight, the mouthfeel aided by supple viscosity. Gets chewy and a bit closed on the finish, yet the tannins never dominate. Sure to age well, but great drinking now

Swan Valley Chenin Blanc – Back to the Future

Barry Weinman – 2^nd July 2020

World Chenin Day last week was an opportunity to move my focus to the Swan Valley. Chenin Blanc, along with Shiraz are the most important grapes grown on Perth’s doorstep. And the panel celebrated with extraordinary tastings.

Firstly, we tasted a cross-section of WA Chenin Blanc, followed by a six-wine vertical from John Kosovich. The later left the panel gob-smacked by the intensity and depth of flavour that Swan Valley Chenin can achieve.

The winery was founded in 1922 as Westfield Wines by Lile (Jack) Kosovich, before his son John took over as winemaker. Fast forward half a century and 2003 saw the winery’s name changed in celebration of John Kosovich’s 50th vintage.

Whilst the vineyard holdings have expanded to Pemberton, Swan Valley remains the focus for Chenin Blanc, fortified wines and some excellent reds.

Third generation winemaker Arch is now firmly at the helm, and Chenin Blanc continues to shine. Whilst they are delicious young, their ability to age is legendary, with the vibrant acidity laying at the heart of this.

The 2011, for example, is still fresh and vibrant with just a touch of honeyed development showing. This has years ahead of it (especially under screw cap).

The brilliant 2013 is still available in limited quantities and is worth a drive to the valley to pick up a bottle or two.

Excellent Chenin Blanc is now produced across the state and deserves more attention.

Reviewed

tripe.Iscariot – Chenin Blanc – Absolution – 2018 (17.4/20pts). Pale straw colour. Neutral nose, with gentle pear aromatics. The palate is textured with a touch of viscosity. Excellent acid balance drives the finish. Hints of lanolin and minerality, with gentle melon and honeysuckle notes.

LAS Vino – Chenin Blanc – CBDB – 2018 (18/20pts). Fresh and pristine, with pear to the fore. The palate is a delightful blend of primary fruit and viscous, mouthcoating texture, with a little lanolin greasiness (phenolics) thrown in for good measure. Vibrant and long, with excellent depth of flavours.

LS Merchants – Chenin Blanc – 2019 (17.5/20pts). Whilst this is relatively neutral, there is a lot to like. Textured and slightly viscous, with the fine acid balance a feature. Textured and intrinsically powerful, with honeysuckle, almond meal and a touch of beeswax. Will be great with food.

Vino Volte – Chenin Blanc – Funky and Fearless – 2019 (17.8/20pts). Very enticing nose, with hints of pear skin, honeysuckle and tropical fruit, balanced by vibrant lime juice acidity. The gentle viscosity is a feature and a touch of phenolics adds depth and mouthfeel. Fine, long and textured, this is drinking a treat.

Corymbia – Chenin Blanc – 2019 (17.5/20pts). From the same vineyard as the Vino Volte, but a different expression. Aromatic and fragrant, with pink lady apple, fine texture and vibrant acidity. Generous, textured and drinkable, the intensity building in the mouth.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – 2018 (17.8/20pts). Textural and fragrant, with innate power. Complex and balanced, with supple winemakers’ inputs on the nose and palate. Excellent acidity.

Marc Bredif – Chenin Blanc – Classic – 2016 (18/20pts).  This is a lovely wine. Floral and fragrant, with a touch of residual sugar that adds depth and balance on the palate. Pear, honeysuckle and gentle toast all add to the package. Complex, racy acidity builds on the close. A classic Loire Valley Chenin that will age brilliantly.

John Kosovich – Chenin Blanc – Bottle Aged Reserve – 2010 (17.7/20pts). Lovely gentle toasted notes on the nose. The palate is complex, rich and intense with the honeyed toasty notes carrying the finish. The vibrant acidity keeps things fresh.

John Kosovich – Chenin Blanc – Bottle Aged Reserve – 2011 (18.2/20pts). Fresh and vibrant, with delicious honeysuckle fruit and a touch of toast adding depth. The acidity is a highlight. The length of the palate and persistence of flavours are remarkable. A great drinking wine that has years ahead of it. Perhaps a touch of residual sugar to round out the package.

John Kosovich – Chenin Blanc – Bottle Aged Reserve – 2013 (18.2/20pts – $36). Very long and intense, with honeysuckle, lavender and spice. Supple, textured and delicious, yet complex and focused. The balance is a highlight, with racy acidity on the finish.  No oak used. Great drinking now, but also worthy of 5-10 years in the cellar.

John Kosovich – Chenin Blanc – 2014 (18.6/20pts). With the most intense and powerful fruit in the tasting, this is quite superb. The depth on the palate is amazing, with a delicious saline tang adding to the texture. Brilliant length and balance and, remarkably, still a little closed on the finish. Outstanding!

Barry Weinman: 25^th June 2020

Grenache is a most versatile variety. Originating in Spain, but made famous by the wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache was the most widely planted red variety in the world until the late 1990s.

Whilst Grenache is the base for many cheap Spanish and French reds, when yields are kept low, and especially when old vines are used, Grenache can make great wine. Styles vary from fresh, pretty wines that have more in common with Pinot Noir, to dense, savoury reds such as those of Priorat in Spain

Originally a key ingredient in fortified wine in Australia, Grenache gradually staked a claim as a serious red wine as part of a blend.

GSM blends are now well known to many wine drinkers, but in recent years Grenache has been making a statement on its own.

Serious, powerful Grenache has been championed for decades by Clarendon Hills in McLaren Vale, but in recent years, we have seen more wines available in the lighter, prettier style suited to earlier consumption.

And because it is not as fashionable as old-vine Shiraz, it is often much better value.

My love affair with Grenache is likely to continue for some time, as long as wines like Yalumba’s Vine Vale are made.

Yalumba are committed to using a cork closure, so. I was pleased to note that if a wine is tainted, that they are happy to be contacted for a replacement. This is not a bad solution, and is one also adopted by Penfolds for their older wines.

Reviewed

Yalumba – Grenache – Vine Vale – 2017 (18/20pts – $35). Somewhat muted nose at first, but with air, this is oh-so-pretty. The palate is an explosion of supple, red berry fruit. Serious enough to make you pay attention, yet delicious enough to wash down some roast duck. From 70 y/o vines. 30% whole bunch fermentation.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz/Cabernet- Trinders – 2018 (17.8/20pts – $31). Pretty, vibrant and perfumed, with attractive fruit that is a joy to smell. In the mouth, this is supple, fresh and elegant, with a delicious mouthcoating texture. The fruit is quite dense and structured. I have not tried this blend before under this label, but it is worth seeking out.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2018 (17.5/20pts – $15). Mint, menthol and supple plummy fruit on the nose, with gentle savoury notes. The palate is long, succulent and balanced, with just enough oak to add depth without overwhelming the fruit. A very good drink indeed, and ridiculous value from this perennial over-achiever. From Dan Murphys.

Barry Weinman: 14^th June 2020

Larry Cherubino first came to attention in the late 1990s as senior winemaker at Houghton. Larry oversaw an expansion of the range, and was responsible for making some brilliant (and great value) wines from across the state. The 1998 Moondah Brook Cabernet is still brilliant drinking for example.

What was even more remarkable though, was the fact that Larry was relatively new to winemaking, having only graduated from horticulture in 1994.

The Cherubino label started in 2005 and expanded rapidly. Larry must surely be one of the most ambitious (and busiest) winemakers in Western Australia, such is the sheer variety of wines that he produces. At last count, there were almost 60 wines for sale on their website, spanning seven different labels.

Labels include:

• Folklore
• Apostrophe
• Ad Hoc
• Pedestal
• The Yard
• Laissez Faire
• Cherubino

In the Cherubino range alone, there are six different Cabernets spanning the South-West corner of the state. And then there are the wines he makes under contract for other producers.…

Luckily for us, the wines are uniformly excellent. From the $13 Folklore range, right through to the Cherubinos, they also often represent brilliant value.

As the state starts to open up, I would also recommend a visit to the cellar door in Margaret River. Here you can taste a cross- section of the range, including the premium wines, and enjoy a great (value) glass of wine on a sunny afternoon.

Cherubino may not be a household name in Western Australia, but it should be, such is the quality and value of the wines produces.

Reviewed

Folklore – Classic White – 2019 (17.3/20pts – $13). Tropical fruit, with just a touch of oak and gentle lees work adding depth and filling out the finish. Textural and food friendly.

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – Channybearup – 2019 (17.8/20pts – $25). High quality fruit with grassy/herbal notes and even a touch of lantana. The palate is packed with lemony citrus notes over gentle straw and lees/barrel work characters. A compelling wine.

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen & Chicken – 2019 (17.3/20pts – $). I like that the fresh fruit notes are supported by complex, textural winemaking inputs, but these are not overt features. The palate is dense and textured, with a degree of viscosity. Long and fine.

Apostrophe – Possessive Red – 2018 (17.7/20pts – $16). Pretty, vibrant and quite seductive. The floral notes on the nose and palate are framed by supple, savoury textural components. The oak (new & 1y/o) adds depth, without impeding the fruit’s transition across the palate. Pepper and spice to close. Uncomplicated ,delicious and great value. Now – 5 years.

The Yard – Shiraz – Riversdale – 2018 (18.4/20pts – $35). Aromatic and perfumed, with hints of chocolate and spice on the nose. The palate has chewy plum and cherry-like fruit, supported by supple, savoury oak. A more serious, age-worthy style that has undeniable quality. Firm, textural and dense, this wine is all potential right now. For the patient.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale – 2018            (18.3/20pts – $25). Dense, powerful and taut, with excellent depth. Yet remains elegant, refined and balanced, with hints of mint and eucalypt complementing the berry fruit. Somewhat linear, this really needs 5 – 10 years to open up (or time in a decanter). Shop around for a great bargain!

Ad Hoc – Pinot Noir – Cruel Mistress – 2018 (17.8/20pts – $25). Pretty red fruit and black cherry aromas. The palate is delicious and seductive. The ripe fruit is balanced by supple mouthfeel and gentle earthy, spicy notes that add texture. Not overly complex, but a great drink and good value to boot.