Current and New Release – Summer 2017

Barry Weinman: 28 February 2017

Every now and then, a wine surprises you for being far better than expected. This was the case with the Thomas Block Chardonnay from Paxton. McLaren vale is famous for its rich, ripe Shiraz, but here is a taut, structural Chardonnay that is really very good.

As expected the new release Kevin John Chardonnay from Cullen was impressive, but it was the Nest Egg Chardonnay from Bird in Hand that topped the tasting. I tried this again with a group of wine friends over dinner, and this was preferred to some big names from Australia and Burgundy. Expensive, but worth the money.

Finally, whilst it is not new release, the Vasse Felix Cabernet is a star. A brilliant wine and good value compared to some of the big names from Margaret River.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Prima – 2016 (17.5pts – $26).   There are honeyed notes along with a touch of ripe pear and gentle toast leading to a textural, rich palate. Moderate residual sugar (25 gm/l) is balanced by decent acidity. Lacks the ultimate drive on the palate of the best German Kabinetts, but this wine gets extra points for being a delicious drink.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Riesling – Mosel – Domane MC – Feinherb – 2015 (18.2pts – N/A). Bright, focused and razor sharp, this is an excellent Riesling. There is a nervous energy on the palate, with the lime and mineral characters performing on a stage of taut acidity. Excellent length to close. Not yet available in Australia.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Pinot Blanc – Mosel – Domane MC – 2015 (18pts). Delicious wine from this underrated grape. Bright fruit (citrus, stone fruit and even a touch of pineapple) is balanced by fresh acidity. The fruit lingers on a very long palate. Morish, the residual sugar is perfectly matched to fruit and acidity.

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Nest Egg – 2015 (18.5pts -$79). Powerful dense wine with ripe fruit married to toasted oak and lees/barrel ferment characters. The palate is textural, rich and balanced. Made in a more traditional, easily accessible style, showcasing the Adelaide Hills fruit. A brilliant drink right now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2015 (18.5pts). This is quite accessible, with the fruit on the nose the main focus. The palate is full, round and powerful with the pineapple (Mendoza clone) and marmalade fruit framed by complex winemaking inputs including struck match minerality and tight French oak. Seamless, this is a lovely wine now – 5 years.

Arivina Estate – Chardonnay – Wildwood Ridge Reserve – 2015 (18.3pts). Opens with   gentle peach and melon aromas that build in the glass. Creamy, textured, fine and supple, this is an elegant, almost delicate wine that will build presence over a number of years.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2015 (18pts+ – $34). (Organic). Complex, dense fruit on the nose. The palate is taut and firm, the fruit sitting behind the structural components. The balance is noteworthy. The oak and winemaking components tightly bind the fruit, the latter sitting dormant and needing some time in bottle to express itself fully. A truly impressive wine from McLaren Vale.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium (Gold Capsule) – 2013. (18.5pts+). A complex nose, with dense, ripe, precise fruit. Menthol, blueberry, liquorice and eucalypt notes are balanced by texturing oak. Very long, fine and elegant, this will age well for 15 years +.

New World Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 20^th February 2017

I had a call from a friend recently saying that he was dropping around some wines for me to try. These turned out to be sixteen highly regarded new world Pinots. This was a brilliant way to end a tiring day.

It was a very hot day in Perth and the wines were a little warm, so I popped them into an ice bucket for 20 minutes, just to bring the temperature down a little. Tasting red wine at 15 degrees is so much better than trying them at 25, especially as they tend to warm up in the glass once poured.

The Ata Rangi was the highlight, a stunning wine that is sure to age very well. (The 2002 is drinking a treat now). The Block 5 from Felton Road equally impressive, as was the Paradigm Hill. All amazing wines.

At a completely different price point, the Picardy was the sweet spot in the tasting for price/quality, whilst the Eddystone Point is an affordable entry point into the charms of Pinot Noir.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18.8). Everything is in balance here. The complex, deep smelling fruit, polished tannins, fine-balanced acidity and textural oak all sit beautifully on the near-seamless palate. A master-stroke of restraint, yet with latent power that will build with time in the glass. A magical wine, with fine, dense fruit. Powerful, yet restrained, this is a tight/sinewy wine. An iron fist in a velvet glove would be one way to describe this wine Why don’t more people make Pinot in Martinborough? (Served from magnum).

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2015 (18.7pts $122). Closed on the nose initially. The palate is tight, yet with air, layers of flavour and texture build and evolve. A monumental effort as, despite the power of the fruit, this remains elegant, balanced and finely structured. The flavours linger for minutes, with the fruit and structure playing off each other right to the close, making for a superb drink. (Served from Double Magnum).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Worri Yallock – 2015 (18.5pts). There is more depth to the fruit here, with the winemaking inputs playing a minor supporting role on both the nose and palate. The dense, high quality fruit is a highlight, carrying the entire length of the palate. An impressive wine that needs several years for the fruit to open, but the potential is there (cork seal).

Paradigm Hill – Pinot Noir – L’ami sage – 2014 (18.5pts). Gentle cherry fruit and spice, thought the fruit does not really feature here and is not missed. This is a textural treat, with the fruit bound by the winemaking inputs and oak, making this near irresistible. Wonderful structure and depth, the fine tannins are a highlight. Will open up with a few years in bottle. The Diam closure is a safe bet.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow (Mt Barker) – 2016 (18.3+pts – RRP $60). Opens with a pretty, almost delicate nose, that despite its youth, is quite full/complex. The palate is an amalgam of strawberries, cherries, plum, tobacco and spice. Really quite delicious, this dances in the mouth. The acid, tannins and M   oak hold back the fruit on the finish somewhat, but this has everything in place to shine with short-term cellaring (and achieve potentially higher points).

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Aroha – Te Muna – 2013 (18-18.5pts – $120). Very attractive nose, where the complex fruit is complemented by gentle earthy/herbal notes. The palate is more restrained and linear, the tannins, oak and fine acidity conspiring to keep the fruit in check. Delicate for central Otago, with impressive structure, this will do even better with a couple of years in bottle (cork closure).

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts). I like the forward, generous fruit on the nose. Continues onto the palate, where the fruit is complemented by fine tannins and balanced acidity. This is a serious wine that is really quite good. The mouth-feel builds with air, and a touch of grip adds depth (cork closure).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Hoddles Creek – 2015 (18pts). Very attractive nose, with the fragrant berries set against a backdrop of complex herbal characters. On the palate, the cool fruit is slightly suppressed, with the winemaking influences (whole bunch fermentation) carrying the length of the palate. Needs a couple of years to flesh out, but will be a great accompaniment to roast meats. I love the Adreaseal closure.

Eddystone Point – Pinot Noir – 2015 (17.5pts). Pretty, floral fruit, supple structure and fine acidity make this an excellent drink. The bright cherry and plum-like fruit has moderate complexity, with the oak adding texture and depth. A couple of years would not hurt either.

Australian Sparkling Wine

Barry Weinman: 7^th February 2017

The attrition rate for this tasting was very high, with only four wines making it to this review.

The premium Heemskerk is particularly worthy of attention. A very elegant wine that is full of refinement.

I was also very impressed with the Seppelt. This is a decent Shiraz, with the bubbles adding life. An Australian classic that is sure to cellar well for a decade.

Reviewed

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – 2011 (18pts – $60). A most elegant wine, with subtle complexity. The palate is precise and linear, with excellent mouth-feel and racy acidity. Refined and fine, the fruit builds on the finish. This would benefit from a couple of years’ bottle age. Fine Australian bubbles. (Great packaging!).

Seppelt – Shiraz – Original Sparkling – 2013 (17.8pts). Smells like a decent Shiraz, tastes like a decent Shiraz. Excellent fruit, with liquorice and chocolate notes. The dosage is restrained, allowing the fruit to be the main focus. Excellent length of flavours on the palate. Great with a steak over summer, or cellar for more complexity.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV. (17.5pts). Quite complex and powerful on the nose, with toasty autolysis characters. The palate has decent weight and fruit richness, whilst the depth and length of flavours impress. This is a good effort and worth trying.

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Able’s Tempest – NV (17.5pts – $32). Pale. I like the floral/apple blossom fruit that is balanced by fresh acidity. Subtle, long and fine, this is a smart wine.

New Release – Mixed.

Barry Weinman: 2^nd February 2017

This tasting showcased excellent value wines at various price points. From the ridiculously cheap Angove, the smartly priced Polguern Estate, to the (relatively) good value imports from Salomon, these are wines that you can afford to drink whenever the mood takes you.

Reviewed

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wieden & Berg – Kremestal Dac – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). Complex, with apricot, almond aromas and tight minerality. Hints of spice lead to a textural palate that is very long, with superb balance. Builds and evolves in the mouth. An excellent wine that deserves attention and possibly bottle age.

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wachtberg – Kremestal Dac – 1er Cru – 2015. (18+pts – $45). A touch more floral, with pretty stone fruit notes. The palate is a little shy initially, with zesty acidity and a strong vein of minerality. Opens with air and gets quite textured on the close. A serious wine that needs time to fully express itself.

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Floral nose with passionfruit and tropical notes. The palate is vibrant, with a touch of minerals and a slight phenolic oiliness. Generous, this is a brilliant value off-dry Riesling.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2015 (17.6pts – $10). Pretty fruit on the nose. The palate is precise and focused, with a core of dark, blueberry fruit matched to supple oak. The tannins and acid are very well integrated, making for a polished, sophisticated wine of some charm. May even get better with a couple of years in bottle.

Polguern Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pharaoh’s Tribute – 2014   (17.8pts – $20). Pretty red currant fruit, with tobacco, blackcurrant and spice. Repeats on the palate, though this is tight and closed right now. A seriously made wine that will be a cracker in 10 years. Great value from Roleystone

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2015 (17.3pts -$17). A delicious, fruit forward style with licorice, coffee/mocha and plummy fruit. Good length and mouth-feel to close. Excellent value BBQ red.

Chardonnay – New Release

Barry Weinman: 27^th January 2017

If on a tight budget, I would focus on Riesling for my cellar given the superb value and ageing potential on offer. If money was not a barrier, and I had to choose one white wine to have in my cellar, it would be Chardonnay. The wine’s style can vary from lively and racy, to elegant and refined, then all the way to rich and powerful.

This tasting provided several excellent wines, in a variety of styles. The Howard Park Miamup is refreshing and easy to drink, as is the excellent value Wynns. The Marchand & Burch is very refined and elegant in the modern style.

Sitting firmly in the middle ground are the excellent wines from Xanadu and Deep Woods. These are world-class wines. The Il Liris by Castelli and the Comus by comparison are powerful, textural wines with plenty of winemaking inputs.

Reviewed

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongorup & Mount Barker – 2016. (18.5+pts- $73). A superb wine from the team at Howard Park. Elegant, refined, balanced, supple and long, with fine lemony acidity and a core of minerality. Very new world and modern, but avoids being overly lean. The balance is excellent, with the high quality fruit absorbing the oak with ease.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015 (18.5pts – $46). Wonderful wine! Very complex with hints of tropical fruit over melon and citrus notes. Powerful, though the palate is quite restrained and fine. Minerality builds, whilst the length, depth and slightly chewy texture add to the enjoyment. Now to 5 years, served with seared scallops.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.5pts – $33). Very complex and powerful, with peach, apricot and hints of tropical fruit. The palate has minerality, curry leaf/ struck match with great depth and texture. Very long, the fruit lingers for what seems like minutes. A Burgundian style of some note, and excellent value. Simply grilled pork.

Castelli – Chardonnay – Il Liris – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $70). Complex worked characters, with struck match and curry-leaf minerality. Flows through to a palate that is textured, complex and very long. A rich wine that would be superb with roast turkey, though it is an individualistic style. Great packaging with a distinctive bottle shape and glass stopper.

Comus – Chardonnay – Ferguson Valley – 2014 (18pts). Powerful fruit married with complex winemaking techniques. Minerals, struck match, citrus, pineapple, stone fruit all jostle for attention. A high intensity, individualistic wine that is a standout. Impressive packaging.

Castelli – Chardonnay – 2015 (17.8pts – $32). Hints of melon, grapefruit and stone fruit. Creamy, yet fresh, with bright acidity the main feature on the palate. The fruit and minerality builds with air. This is a restrained modern style that may benefit from a few years for allow the fruit to open. Less overt than the Il Liris.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2016 (17.8pts – $28). A lithe wine that, while modern in style, has enough depth to the fruit to make it approachable now. The textural palate and quite complex fruit is rounded out by creamy oak, with lively refined acidity adding drive. No food required, just a sunny afternoon.

Wynns – Chardonnay – 2015. (17.5pts – $25). Floral, star jasmine and citrus aromas. Quite cool fruit, with citrus-like acidity. Good length, with the persistent fruit building in the mouth, Decent texture too. and. Really good drinking, this can be picked up for under $12 from Dan Murphy.

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen & Chicken – 2015 (17pts – RRP $21). Peach and tropical fruit to the fore, in a straightforward style. The uncomplicated palate has decent length and enough depth to make for excellent early drinking. From Pemberton.

Young Gun of Wine – Perth – December 2016

Barry Weinman: 25^th January 2016

I do not attend many wine tasting “events”; the ones where hundreds of punters turn up to try as many wines as possible in a short period of time, with the aim of getting value for their ticket by drinking as much wine as possible in the allocated time.

I made an exception last month, when I attended the Young Gun of Wine event at Il Lido. Young Gun of Wine is a bit of a misnomer, as the tasting featured both established as well as up and coming winemakers.

One consistent feature is that they are all passionate about the wines they produce, even if they make rather divergent styles of wine. From mainstream to biodynamic, with the odd natural wine thrown in for good measure.

The wines reviewed below are only a fraction of those that were available, and the large group that attended seemed to be thoroughly enjoying the event, happily chatting with the winemakers.

Amelia Park

Given the track record of the winery and winemaker Jeremy Gordon, I am not sure whether Amelia Park fits the “young Gun” designation, but the wines continue to be brilliantly made.

Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015: The first Chardonnay to be given the “reserve” title. A tight and fine wine with ripe, though restrained fruit. Nectarine combines with lemon myrtle and melon aromas, whilst the palate is taut, with minerality and texturing oak. An excellent wine that will age very well.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013. Very refined and elegant, with mint/eucalypt over supple blueberry fruit. The palate has near seamless palate transition and has a wonderful silky texture. A superb wine. The fourth release under the reserve label, this spent 18 months in oak (40% new), with the fruit coming from the Montgomery vineyard. Good Value at $44 ex-winery.

Cape Grace

Chardonnay – 2015. Peach-like fruit and fine minerality a feature. Creamy and elegant, with decent fruit weight. A year or two in bottle should see this open up. Made from clone 5, spent six months in oak (45% new, regular lees stirring).

Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. A big, ripe red with plenty of fruit power. Textured and long, the balance is noteworthy. (560 cases made).

Credaro

Credaro came to my attention two years ago when their Cabernet starred in one of my panel tastings. It was the elegance that grabbed my attention this time.

Chardonnay – 1000 Crowns – 2015. Very fine and elegant, with stone fruit, melon and crisp minerality. The palate is quite closed and tight, with fine oak and grapefruit acidity adding depth. Age-worthy.

Shiraz – 1000 Crowns – 2015. While there is ripe fruit here, it to is restrained and elegant. The palate is tight and textured, the oak sitting well within the fruit. 5 gold medals in wine shows to date.

Flore Marche

Riesling – Malabre – 2016. The numbers here are a clear indicator to the style made (residual sugar 6.5g/l, pH = 2.9, alcohol 10.5%). Bright, fresh and enjoyable, with just a touch of residual sugar to add depth and mouth-feel. Excellent summer drinking, given the light fruit weight and linear palate.

Freehand

Here the focus is on making enjoyable, preservative free wines that have had a couple of years in the bottle prior to release. Whilst the wines have developed quite quickly in bottle, this allows the winery to sell wines that are ready for immediate consumption.

Semillon – 2014. Despite being sulphur free, there are some toasty, struck match characters on show. The palate is textured and chewy, with phenolic grip and oak adding impact. Non mainstream style. This will handle rich foods well.

Merlot – 2014. Succulent and plush, with plum and mulberry fruit that is showing a touch of development. Fits the mould and is ready to go now.

Krinklewood

Here is a winery and winemaker that beats to the tune of a different drum. Biodynamics is the main focus here, with an infectious enthusiasm shown by winemaker Rod Windrim.

Chardonnay– Basket Press– 2015. 60% of the juice here was fermented in 600l concrete “eggs” utilising a very slow ferment to add texture and mouth-feel. This is a generous wine, with pretty floral fruit transitioning to melon notes. There is a bit of grip on the close, which should soften with a year or two in the bottle, allowing the mid-palate to build more depth.

Shiraz – Basket Press – 2015. Handpicked over two fruit days, basket pressed, open fermented and stomped by foot! Vibrant lifted fruit, with well-judged acidity and decent length. Do not be put off by the lighter colour, this is an excellent drink right now.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium New Release

Barry Weinman: 12^th December 2016

I recently wrote about the current range of Shiraz released by Cherubino and this time it was the Cabernets that shone. These are very fine, elegant wines that will be extremely long lived. I left the bottles on my tasting bench and they continued to improve for 4-5 days, and were still in excellent condition after a week!

Following on from the success of the 2014 Filius from Vasse Felix, I was very keen to try the Premium (Gold Capsule) from the same vintage. Whilst it is not due to be released until sometime in 2017, winemaker Virginia Wilcock kindly provided a pre-release sample to include in the tasting.

The wine lived up to my expectations; high quality fruit brilliantly crafted into an elegant/refined package. This is a wine destined for a very long future (and higher points).

In some ways, the highlight of the tasting was the SRS from Flametree. A wine that manages to provide great drinking now, yet will age well for years to come. I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of this with chicken poached in master stock.

At a completely different price point, the Wynns offered great value everyday drinking.

It was a privilege to try some of the wines in this tasting, such was the quality on display. Given their relative youth and restraint, they are sure to score even higher points in years to come.

Reviewed

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18.7pts – $65). Precise, ripe berry fruit on the nose, with more immediate generosity than the Vasse Felix. The palate is very long and savoury, with the bright acidity and remarkably fine tannins framing the fruit wonderfully. The finish gets a little tight, but really opened up with air. Whilst this will reward cellaring, the elegance, balance and poise makes this my pick of the tasting to drink now.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014 (18.5++pts – $110). Beautiful purple colour in the glass. Amazing depth to the fruit, though this is just a baby. The fruit is inky on the palate, with blueberry and cedar from the tight grained oak. This is quite closed and tight, yet the fine structural components allow a preview of the high quality fruit. This wine really needs decades to show its best.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2014 (18.5+pts – $75). Compared to the Frankland River, this is actually quite pretty. Mulberry, spice, cedar, blackcurrant and menthol aromas. Fine silky textural components, over pristine, medium bodied (for Cabernet) fruit. Excellent palate transition leads to dusty tannins on the finish. Will be better in a decade, but could be drunk now with plenty of air.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium* – 2014 (18.5+pts – $46). Very youthful and vibrant, the cherry-like fruit is accompanied by mint and eucalypt aromas. The palate is firm and textured, yet the fruit still shines through and the balance is exemplary. The way the fruit fans out on the finish is a delight. A wine of distinction, this could be drunk now with joy or anytime over the next 20 years and is sure to score higher points in years to come

* Sitting between the Filius and the Heytesbury, this is known as the premium, but the word does not appear on the front label. The wine is easily identified by the gold screw cap.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – “Red Stripe” – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Lively, fresh and delicious, with cherry and berry fruit balanced by the fine though firm tannins. Whilst good now, this will be even better with short-term cellaring. Available for $14 from Dan Murphy, making this a bargain.

Cherubino Shiraz – 2015 Releases

Barry Weinman: November 2016

I have written previously about the magic that Larry Cherubino can work with grapes. His Rieslings and Cabernet based wines are often brilliant.

A challenge for consumers can be the plethora of different wines released from each variety. These appear under a number of different labels including Cherubino, The Yard, Laissez Faire, Avant Gardiner, Ad Hoc and Middle of Everywhere.

To make it even more confusing, there are several wines released under the Cherubino and Yard labels.

None of the above really matters when the quality of the wines are considered. Irrespective of the price-point, the wines are excellent.

Importantly, the quality of the cheaper wines can make these great bargains.

In the current tasting, the panel reviewed a cross section of the 2015 vintage Shiraz, and the wines did not disappoint.

One highlight (from a value perspective) was the 2014 Apostrophe. A brilliantly packaged, easy drinking red that is sure to please. It is sold out at the winery, but both Liquor Barons and Nicks had it available from their websites at the time of writing.

The other highlight was how the wines developed in the bottle. I left the wines on the tasting bench and the fruit continued to build and open for up to 5 days. Even after a week, they were in great nick. This reinforces their ability to age in bottle for a decade or more.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Shiraz – Cherubino – 2015 (18.7+pts – $55). Hints of vanilla and spice over dense, powerful black fruits. Tar, liquorice, plum and cedar lead on to a textured, balanced palate. The fruit gets quite chewy, yet the tannins and oak are perfectly integrated. A superbly made wine that can be drunk now with joy, but will age comfortably for a decade or two.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Acacia Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $35). Lithe and elegant, though again, there is a degree of depth to the fruit and really good mouth-feel. T  he finish is quite silky, with the acid, tannin and oak all sympathetic to the fine fruit. This has medium bodied fruit, but is the most finely structured of the trio. Needs years to really open up, or an hour in a decanter and a decent steak.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). Lighter, more aromatic plum and mulberry fruit, especially on the palate. Medium weight and pretty, this is very approachable, with supple acidity and fine, tight tannins. Stylistically, this sits in-between the structure of the Acacia and the approachability of the Justin. Will be wonderful with a homemade pizza. Drink this while waiting for the Acacia.

Cherubino – Shiraz – Laissez Faire – Syrah – 2015 (18pts – $39). Pretty, vibrant fruit a real highlight. This has had a gentle touch in the winery, allowing the sour cherry fruit to shine. Elegant and supple, yet the fruit lingers and builds. The structural oak and tannins tighten things up on the finish, suggesting time in the bottle will only help.

Cherubino – Shiraz/Grenache – Laissez Faire – 2015 (17.8pts – $29). Wonderful purple colour, no doubt aided by the Grenache. This has really deep smelling peppery fruit. The palate has dark, brooding fruit along with aniseed, plum, chocolate and spice. With air, this gets quite pretty, while the supple tannins and fine oak add structure to the finish.

Apostrophe – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – ‘14 – progressive reds – Frankland River – 2014 (17.5pts – $16). Supple, fragrant berries on the nose with hint of creaming soda. Delicious palate that is soft and slurpable, with gentle tannins and acid adding balance. Uncomplicated and eminently drinkable. Brilliant packaging for this wonderfully priced everyday red.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Justin Vineyard – 2015 (17.5pts $35). The most approachable and glugable of the trio of Yard wines. That said, it continued to evolve and build for a number of days.

New Release: November 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^st November 2016

This tasting provided several highlights. Brilliant value from the likes of Shingleback and Angoves, along with serious wines from Karawatta and Shottesbrooke.

Something for everyone!

Reviewed

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Pretty floral fruit on the nose. The palate is textured and chewy, the phenolic richness balanced by fine acidity. Near seamless palate transition is remarkable at this price-point. Unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). Fragrant red berries/strawberries and supple spice. The palate is fairly light bodied, but the fruit sits well within this frame. The palate transition is excellent, with just a little bit of grip on the close. Very easy to drink with a BBQ this summer, or should develop depth with a few years in the bottle. Definitely worth a look.

  Shiraz

Angove – Shiraz – Long Row – 2015 (16.8pts – $10). Fragrant and floral nose. Medium bodied, with plump fruit and an approachable, gentle structure. Uncomplicated, but a decent drink.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Aficionado – 2015 (18pts – $15). Souring cherry/plum fruit is the primary focus here. Whilst the fruit is ripe and dense, the fresh acidity gives this life, allowing it to be drunk with pleasure young. The supple oak and tannins add texture to the quality fruit. Impressive, and unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Flint Rock – 2014 (17.5pts – $28). Lovely fruit on the nose, with lifted aromatics over savoury components. The palate is medium weight, with the textural/structural components adding focus. Good length, this finishes with drying tannins and acidity. A food wine, this would be at its best with roast meats and represents handsome drinking.

Karrawatta – Shiraz – Dairy Block – 2015 (18pts – $38). Reviving an old Clare Valley name. Ripe, dense and textured fruit that is really concentrated, with intense raspberry/strawberry characters. Big and powerful in the mouth, yet with decent balance and structure. I would leave this for 5 years at least, but will last for at least 15. An excellent wine!

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2013 (18.7pts – $60). A different style to those from WA, showing plum, fresh berries and mint. An impressive wine where the ripe, high quality fruit is balanced by savoury characters and refreshing acidity. There are hints of chocolate and coffee, as well as liquorice and spice. The depth of the fruit is amazing as is the structure. A powerful dense wine that will live for decades, yet will be a joy with lamb cutlets now.

Talijancich – Liqueur Shiraz – 1980 Solero – NV. (18.9pts – $65). Sweet and vibrant, yet amazingly concentrated and complex. The balance is excellent, as is the length and mouth-feel. The drying acid adds balance to the sultana-like fruit. Viscous, with enormous length, the combination of fresh and aged material makes this dangerously easy to drink. Points are irrelevant, this is liquid gold!

October New Release – Mixed

Barry Weinman: 25^th October 2016

Top quality Chardonnay is one of the world’s great wines, capable of possessing depth and power, yet retaining balance and a degree of elegance. Unfortunately, it has also been expensive, particularly when compared to the best Australian Rieslings.

As the wine industry has matured in Australia, the regions that are best suited to growing Chardonnay have been identified, and attention has been given to the clones of Chardonnay planted. Simultaneously, winemakers have developed a greater appreciation for how to handle the fruit in the winery to maximize the enjoyment.

As a result, the number of high quality wines has increased dramatically, and it is now possible to find an excellent wine for a reasonable cost. Whilst high quality Riesling can be found for (considerably) less, there is a place for good Chardonnay, particularly with food.

The Flametree SRS topped this tasting and is priced sensibly given the quality. The Scotchmans Hill was a standout for value. An excellent wine that will be even better in a year or two.

In the reds, the highlight was the superb Rolling Stone Cabernet from McHenry Hohnen. Not cheap, but a world-class wine.

Reviewed

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – Wallcliffe – 2015 (18.5pts). Fine fruit on the nose, with lovely curry-leaf minerality. This continues on the palate, and reminds me of a powerful White Burgundy. Very long and near seamless, with excellent mouth-feel. Youthful, the fine acidity drives the finish at present. The stand-out wine of the tasting, deserving of the finest food.

Scotchmans Hill – Chardonnay – 2014 (18/18.5pts – $35). A seductive wine with an evolving array of aromas and flavours including lemon, vanilla, peach, nectarine and grapefruit. Really builds presence in the glass. This took a while to open up and actually showed its best after being open for a day or two after the slight oak astringency settled back into the fruit. A lovely wine that will benefit from decanting an hour before consumption. Value for money.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.3pts). Closed, tight and fine. Powerful fruit, with grapefruit and lemon characters to the fore. Builds melon and subtle stonefruit notes with air. Very long and quite complex, courtesy of the barrel work. Needs a year or two to settle, but will be brilliant drinking. A serious wine. (Sealed with a cork).

Curley Flats – Chardonnay – Macedon Ranges – 2013 (18pts). Quite fine and elegant, but there is depth and power to the fruit, albeit in a subtle way. Finishes a little astringent, with the fine-grained oak carrying the fruit to the close. Balanced and well made, this is a modern, leaner style that would benefit from a year or two in bottle.

Coward & Black – Chardonnay – 2015 (17.8). Complex nutty fruit on the nose. Initially quite lean on the palate, though with air, the pineapple fruit and acidity is a feature. Not overly complex, but has decent length, making for a good drink. Well-made and should be good value.

Red Wine

McHenry Hohnen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot – Rolling Stone – 2011 (18.6pts – $100). Very deep smelling, the blackcurrant fruit has a cassis-like character. The palate is very powerful. The minerality, fine tannins and structuring oak provide a backdrop for the high quality fruit. Great drinking, with a degree of subtlety that belies the power. Sure to age well.

Coward & Black – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Brothers – 2011 (17.8). Decent depth to the redcurrant fruit, with hints of cedar and spice from the oak. The youthful fruit is balanced by fine tannins and texturing oak. The palate has excellent length and decent mouth-feel, though it gets a little chewy on the close, suggesting that a few years in the bottle will add to the pleasure. Smart wine. 

Coward & Black – Shiraz – Show Shiraz – 2014 (17.7pts). Lovely sweet fruit on the nose, with an almost floral, rose petal aroma. The palate is chock-full of plum and dark berry fruit, with licorice and spice to close. The finish is spot on, with the tannins and oak sitting nicely with the fruit.