2008 Vintage Champagne Tasting: The Quercus Collective

Barry Weinman: 10^th June 2023

To celebrate the launch of The Quercus Collective, owners and Champagne aficionados Paul and Louise Avon-Smith hosted a tasting of twenty-one 2008 vintage champagnes.

The Quercus Collective is a bespoke commercial wine cellaring business in Perth’s Western Suburbs. The facilities offer a number of state of the art, climate controlled 1,000 and 2,000 bottle cellars.

In addition to the cellar, there is a custom tasting space where the Avon-Smiths will host exclusive tasting events for customers and friends.

One such event for customers and guests was the recent opportunity to experience 21 of the finest 2008 Champagnes, accompanied by thoughtfully prepared food to match each bracket of wine. MW candidate Foni Pollitt provided expert commentary throughout the evening.

The wines were served in brackets of four, with a glass of 2008 Lallier being enjoyed on arrival.

The 2008 Lallier was intense and powerful, with obvious bottle age adding to the enjoyment. An impactful wine and an excellent start to proceedings.

Bracket One

The first bracket consisted of Blanc de Blancs. Billecart Salmon’s 2008 Louise Salmon (96pts) was a spectacular start to formalities. An incredibly fine wine that revealed layers of citrus, stonefruit and minerality supported by a seamless palate transition, delicate textural notes and great length and persistence of flavours. Despite the fineness, this has impressively powerful fruit. (11yrs on lees, 7gm/l dosage).

The 2008 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs (96pts) was a leaner, tighter expression, yet still possessing great power and intensity, combined with a silky, near seamless palate and impressive line and length. This really built in the glass, with the richness and texture developing over time. (7yrs on lees, 7gm/l)

Remarkably, the 2008 Tattinger Comtes de Champagne (98pts) managed to take things to another level. So fine, supple and delicate, yet possessing an innate power that was breathtaking. A beautiful wine that is close to perfection (10yrs on lees, 9gms/l).

It was a tough ask for the 2008 Billecart Salmon Extra Brut (94pts) to follow the Comtes. Having a such a low dosage made the wine seem a little stark and robust in comparison, but this came into its own as it warmed up, possessing excellent vinosity. (9yrs on lees, 4gm/l).

Bracket Two

The second bracket started with the remarkable Piper Heidsieck 2008 (95pts). That this bargain-basement priced vintage Champagne held its own in such an illustrious tasting was a surprise to many. But there was no doubting the quality. Rich, rounded and developed, with excellent length, this is a wonderful effort that is drinking perfectly today. (8yrs on lees, 9.5gm/l).

This was followed by the superb 2008 Bollinger La Grande Année (96-97pts). A super intense and powerful wine that is still taut and closed at 15 years of age. Has a great future ahead. (9yrs on lees, 3gm/l).

In this illustrious company, Henriot’s Brut 2008 (9yrs on lees, 6gm/l) did not show as well as expected. There was some discussion as to whether this bottle was in perfect condition.

The final wine in the bracket was Pol Roger’s 2008 Vintage (95pts). This is a personal favourite of mine, and it was drinking a treat on the night. Depth, richness and intensity were all on show, with a core of citrusy fruit. Delicious. (8yrs on lees, 7gm/l).

Bracket Three

Dom Pérignon (96pts) kicked off the third bracket and was in fine form. Rich, rounded and developed, yet with a youthful nervous tension. The length and persistence of flavours were a highlight. (8yrs on lees, 5gm/l).

Following on from the Dom, the 2008 Tattinger (93pts) appeared a little simple. A good drink to be sure, but lacking the depth by comparison. (4yrs on lees, 9gm/l).

The sheer quality of the 2008 Perrier-Jouet Belle Èpoque (96+pts) caused a stir amongst the tasters. Extremely fine and elegant, yet with impressive power and intensity and the first signs of complex development. A joy to drink. (8yrs on lees, 9gm/l).

The bracket was rounded out by the sensational 2008 La Grande Dame by Veuve Clicquot (97+pts). So intense and powerful, yet delicate and very fine indeed. A wonderful wine that just got better and better as it warmed up in the glass. (6gm/l).

Bracket Four

Pol Roger’s 2008 Winston Churchill (96pts) was the most immature wine of the tasting, presenting as taut, lean and closed. This has a very long future and is sure to score even higher points in the years to come.

The Louis Roederer Cristal 2008 (98pts) was one of the high points for the tasting. So fine and elegant, yet so, so intense and with great presence on the palate. There was a tension to this wine that was quite exhilarating. A brilliant wine and close to perfection. (8yrs on lees, 8gm/l).

This was the first time that several of has had tried the 2008 Piper Heidsieck Rare (96pts) and everyone was very impressed indeed. Perhaps not quite as finessed as the Cristal, but it made up for this with raw power. Very intense and with great length of flavours, I loved this wine.

The final wine for the bracket was the 2008 Krug Vintage (99pts), a wine that was on another level again. Ultimate intensity and power, this was a meal in itself. One of the greatest wines I have had the privilege of drinking. (10yrs on lees, 4.5gm/l).

Bracket Five

The final bracket was dedicated to Rosés, kicking off with the 2008 La Grande Dame Rosé (95pts). Made with the addition of 14% Pinot Noir from the Clos Colin vineyard in Bouzy, this just felt a little dull on the day.

Next up was the balanced, rounded 2008 Charles Heidsieck Rosé (96pts). A great drinking champagne right now. 10yrs on lees, 9gm/l).

The second last wine was also one of my wines of the night and, by definition, one of the greatest Champagnes I have had the privilege to drink. Tattinger’s 2008 Comtes de Champage Rosé (98-99pts) was simply stunning. Taut, fine and elegant, with gentle red fruits building in the glass. But it was the power, intensity and stunning length and persistence of flavours that defined this wine. Brilliant. (12yrs on lees, 9gm/l, made with the addition of 12% red wine).

The final wine for the tasting was the delightful 2008 Billecart Salmon – Elizabeth Salmon (97pts). A powerful, intense wine with lovely strawberry fruit.

Conclusion.

Without doubt, this was the most remarkable wine event that I have had the privilege to attend. The generosity of the Avon-Smiths for hosting the tasting and supplying all wines from their personal cellar is even more remarkable than the wines themselves.

I strongly encourage you to get on The Quercus Collective mailing list, as more amazing tastings are being planned. (The next event is a Tyson Steltzer hosted Egly Ouriet tasting which is already fully subscribed).

And if you are looking for the ultimate off-site wine storage, then you should definitely check out the cellar. It is a unique facility with 24hr access.

Introduction to the wines of Feudo Arancio

Barry Weinman: 4^th June 2023

Grupo Mezzacorona is a grape growing cooperative in the Trentino region of Italy. It is remarkable for the fact that, after building a thriving wine business in Trentino, they diversified into Sicily in the year 2000.

They are now the largest grower in Sicily, with a remarkable 600 hectares under vine across two estates, with plantings completed between 2001 and 2006. All vineyards are now organically farmed.

Winemaker Maurizio Maurizi joined Mezzacorona in 2006 and gradually worked his way up to head winemaker for Feudo Arancio, the Sicilian label in the range.

The focus is on producing fresh, accessible and, importantly, affordable wines. In Australia, at least one of the major retailers stocks the range and the wines sell for around $20, which is great value for an imported wine. And the packaging is very smart too.

The wines are distributed by the Mark Leake from Authentic Wine Brands through the Single Vineyard Sellers portfolio.

Reviewed

Mezza di Mezzacorona – Italian Glacial Sparkling – NV. A blend of chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau and pinot noir, made in the Charmat method where the secondary fermentation occurs in large stainless steel pressure containers prior to bottling.

Here, the aim is for freshness., with at least four bottlings per year to ensure that the stock is always fresh. As with NV champagne, the aim is to produce a consistent style from batch to batch and year to year. But there is also a fair bit of work done to the base wine in terms of battonage to build texture in the wine to add complexity and differentiate it from Prosecco.

The wine is quite neutral, but with gentle floral notes, a little green apple, and a touch of textural grip. This is fresh and lively and, whilst not complicated, is a delightful drink. Nicely judged dosage (only 8gm/l) adds to the balance and mouthfeel and there is decent length, supported by a touch of phenolics. 12% 91pts – $25.

Feudo Arancio – Grillo – 2021. Grillo is a very productive variety, so yields need to be managed carefully through shoot management and green harvesting to reduce the number of bunches on each vine. Final cropping was around 12 tonnes/hectare. To preserve freshness, the grapes were harvested at night, and refrigeration is used in the winery.

Here, the texture is more apparent than any overt flavours, though there are some stone fruit notes. The texture is supported by well-judged residual sugar and refreshing acidity. The finish feels quite dry and this would be well suited to food. 91pts – $25.

Feudo Arancio – Rosato – 2020. Made from Nero D’Avola, the juice for this is bled out of the tank after four hours, which allows the pretty colour to develop. The remaining juice is used for the red wine in the range.
Dry, with impressive intensity of fruit that reminded me of floral, rose-like characters. The palate has gentle grip and a savoury feel, while the saline tang adds interest and cries out for some food to accompany it.

The saline tang may be due, in part to the fact that this coastal vineyard has a very maritime climate and ranges from only 6 – 60 metres above sea level. 91pts – $25.

Feudo Arancio – Nero D’Avola – 2020. Almost purple colour. This is unmistakably Southern Italian in the way it combines savoury/earthy notes with ripe fruit. Strawberry and plenty of white pepper is supported by a gentle herbal lift. The palate is unoaked and fairly simple, but ticks all the boxes for a good value, easy drinking red that would be great with a slice of your favourite pizza. 90pts – $25.

Castel Firmian – Lagrein – 2021. A fascinating wine where the fruit is the main focus. There is excellent acidity and fine tannins which are quite soft, resulting in a wine that is very easy to drink. An excellent introduction to Italian wine for those who like a young, fruity Aussie shiraz.

Lagrein gives lots of colour and acidity, but lower tannins, so as a result the winemakers opted for extended maceration on seeds to try and extract tannins, to help stabilise the colour and add texture. Attention to ripening is given in the vineyard to ensure that the tannins are ripe and to ameliorate the acidity somewhat. 90pts – $30.

Mezzacorona – Maso di Mezzo – Teroldego Rotaliano – 2019. This is altogether more serious. Here, the tannins and acidity make their presence felt, keeping the fruit somewhat subdued initially. But with air, attractive black cherry and current notes build, supported by gentle spice/minerality and a chewy, textural finish. Excellent value. 93pts – $35.

Rotari – Flavio – Reserva – Blanc de Blanc – 2013. 100% Chardonnay, this opens with creamy vanillin hints, stonefruit (peach) and brioche/lees notes. The lees characters are remarkably integrated given the extended time on lees (9 years). This is quite delicious. There is richness to the fruit up front, but this gradually gives way to refreshing acidity and supple textural grip. A serious wine with excellent length and persistence of flavours and lovely texture.

Made in an extra-brut style, remarkably, this has less than 2gms/l of dosage. It comes from the Trento DOC in the Trentino region and is made using the Methode Champenoise. 50% of the fruit saw barrel ferment and malolactic fermentation. Disgorged in 2022 and only 3000 bottles produced. 94 – 95pts – $80.

Swinney Farvie 2021 Vintage Review

Barry Weinman: 1^st June 2023

If Swinney is not a household name for wine lovers across Australia, it should be, given the quality of the fruit that they produce, and the famous wineries who are queueing to buy fruit each year.

With such high-quality fruit, it stands to reason that the wines made under the Swinney label should also be very good. Add winemaker Rob Mann into the equation and all the ingredients are in place to make great wines.

What is surprising is that, in just a few vintages, the wines under the Farvie label are challenging as some of the best cooler climate wines made from Rhone varietals in Australia.

There was a lot of talk about the climatic conditions for the 2021 vintage in Frankland, but with the mourvèdre and shiraz (in particular), the wines are nothing short of spectacular. Unfortunately, no Farvie grenache was produced that year, as the fruit did not quite make the standard required for the label.

The attention to detail in the vineyard is key to the quality of these wines. With the shiraz, for example, shade cloth was positioned on the west side of the vines to shade the fruit from the afternoon sun. The vineyards that produced these wines are also dry-grown.

In the winery, the biggest surprise for me was the fact that no new oak is used in either wine. Large format three & four-year-old barrels were used and, in the case of the mourvèdre, only one 600l demi muid was used resulting in only 63 dozen being produced.

The shiraz is also produced in small quantities, and in 2021, only 220 dozen were produced.

Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2021. Oh wow. This smells quite stunning. Spectacular ripe fruit leaps from the glass, no doubt accentuated by the use of 58% whole bunches in the ferment. The palate is firm and taut, but everything is in place. The plum like fruit is supported by spice, coffee and chocolate notes. The finish is defined by silky tannins, immense length of flavours and seamless palate transition. This is as close to perfection as any Australian wine that I have tried. 97pts.

Swinney – Farvie – Mourvèdre – 2021. First impressions here are somewhat different to the shiraz. This is dense, dark and brooding, with powerful fruit underpinning the chewy textural notes. But with air, the fruit blossoms, with beautifully fragrant and aromatic fruit stealing the show. It actually took two days for this to hit its peak, so cellaring is sure to be rewarded if you can find a few bottles. 95 – 96pts.

Tim Adams Wines

Barry Weinman: 21^st May 2023

Wandering through my local Dan Murphy recently, I was pleasantly surprised to see some excellent value wines in the “cellar release” section.

Bargains included Leeuwin Estate’s superb 2010 Art Series Cabernet ($88), the dense and powerful 2012 Reynella Basket Press Cabernet ($40) and the 2015 Riesling from the ever-reliable Tim Adams.

The latter was the catalyst for this current tasting, as it allowed the panel to compare the current release with the aged wine, as well as looking at a few of the current release reds.

The overwhelming view of the panel was that these wines represent very good value indeed, especially given they can be picked up for little more than $20.

Reviewed

Tim Adams – Riesling – 2022. Taut, steely and intense, with lemony fruit and gentle toast adding depth. This is not a delicate wine; it is a powerhouse of intense citrus and mineral notes. The finish is textured and has density of fruit. This could handle almost any food that you throw at it. 94pts – $22.

Tim Adams – Riesling – 2015. Very similar profile to the 2022, but here the toasty complexity has been ratcheted up a notch and the colour is a little more golden. The palate is rounded and has softened enough to make this a great drink. Yet there is a backbone of acidity that keeps things fresh. Experience suggests that this is in a shy phase of its development and should evolve and become more expansive in a few years. 93pts – $25.

Tim Adams – The Fergus – 2017. A grenache based blend. This is dense, yet quite compact at this early stage in its development. There are plum and spice notes, with just a touch of mint on both the nose and the palate. The finish is most impressive, with the fruit lingering and the tannins and oak adding depth and texture. A versatile wine that could be enjoyed any time over the next 10 years. 93pts – $22.

Tim Adams – Shiraz – 2019. This is a crowd pleaser. Ripe fruit has been handled beautifully in the winery. This is full of rich berry goodness, supported by plum and just a touch of menthol. Supple oak and graphite-like tannins add texture, whilst the acidity supports the fruit, keeping everything fresh and lively. Not overly concentrated, but a few years should see this flesh out if you so desire. Nevertheless, this is good to go straight out of the bottle. 93pts – $22.

Fervor Wines: by the Garland Project.

Barry Weinman: 10^th May 2023

For aficionados of Western Australian wine, Mike Garland needs no introduction. Recently, Mike has taken on the head winemaker project at Plantagenet, and has also branched out with his son, Callum, to release a range of wines under the Fervor Label.

Callum is a winemaker at Lethbridge and is responsible for the Victorian wines, whilst Mike is responsible for the Western Australian wines in the range.

For the WA wines, Mike has tapped into his network of growers to secure quality fruit from Frankland, Mt Barker, Albany and Pemberton.

The fruit for the Victorian wines come from Mildura.

N.B. The wines were tasted with the winemaker (rather than blinded), so the points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Fervor – Dokta Nova – Riesling – 2022. Opens with gentle citrus, supported by a vein of minerality. In the mouth, the lovely aromatics build, gradually transitioning to supple phenolics on the back palate. The texture was aided by the addition of the pressings which had been barrel fermented prior to blending. Very smart. 500 dozen produced. 93pts – $25.

Fervor – Nonna Diana – Vermentino/Fiano – 2022. A fascinating wine that spent four days on skins prior to ferment, followed by spending a few weeks in high quality French oak (to season the oak prior to use by Lethbridge). The oak adds plenty of aromatics but has not picked up the astringency that extended oak aging can bring. The aromatics, textural components and oak all come together into a delicious drink that would support a variety of foods. 92Pts – $25.

Fervor – Julietta – Chardonnay – 2021. Fruit for this wine comes from the Singlefile vineyard in Denmark, with rumour having it that it was the same fruit that went into the Vivien, albeit with a slightly different picking regime. The hand-picked fruit was whole bunch pressed and the resultant wine smells very serious, with complex curry leaf minerality over the ripe fruit notes. The palate has an explosion of ripe fruit, with the oak still settling back into the wine. Needs a year or two but will be quite superb. 55% new French oak, partial malo. 95pts – $75.

Fervor – Nonno Lou – Nero d’Avola/Sagrantino. Juicy, plump and succulent, with cherry/berry fruit supported by refreshing tannins and acids. Food friendly and fun. 91pts – $25.

Fervor – Edward – Shiraz – 2021. The fruit for this wine (Clone 470) comes from the Swinney vineyard. 20% underwent whole bunch fermentation, and the wine was aged in 50% new French oak. Very pretty now, with wonderfully fragrant fruit. The palate is a blend of savoury complexity and primary fruit. It comes across much darker and more brooding than the nose initially suggests, and the finish is textural and taut. Leave it a decade if you can. 95+pts – $75

Cherubino in 2023: The Classics Revisited

Barry Weinman: 1^st May 2023

The last time I checked, Larry Cherubino was producing almost 70 different wines from fruit sourced across the south-west of Western Australia. Many of these wines are produced from less mainstream varieties (such as Fiano and Tempranillo) or from mainstream varieties made using alternative winemaking techniques.

But the core of the range remains the superb wines made from cabernet, chardonnay, riesling and shiraz, from vineyards spread across the south-west.

And the wines are in sparkling form. The rieslings and the Margaret River Chardonnay in particular were very special indeed.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Great Southern – Riesling – 2022. Crisp and taut, yet simultaneously silky and fine. There are concentrated lime juice fruit characters, without the aggressive acidity associated with the fruit. The length of flavour is excellent, with the citrus notes lingering for what feels like minutes. But the most impressive feature of all is the texture and mouthfeel. There is a degree of viscosity and minerality that sets this apart. An intense wine. 95pts – $39.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Riesling – 2022. Fine, restrained and elegant, but this is not austere or aggressive in the slightest. Rather the palate has cascading fruit from front to back highlighted by lime-like acidity and texturing minerality. The latter is a key feature of this wine. Will benefit from extended aging, but is already a special wine at this early stage. 95pts – $35.

Cherubino – Laissez Faire – Riesling – 2020. Here, the phenolics have been turned up, making for a very textural/viscous wine with plenty of character. The high-quality fruit is somewhat subdued, and needs a little more time to unwind. This is an impactful wine with plenty of character, which would be a great accompaniment to gently spiced food. 93pts – $35.

Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2021. Pretty pretty floral and stonefruit characters that are quite stunning, even if it is not quite typical of Margaret River (The fruit was Dijon clones 95 &96 rather than the more typical Gin Gin clone. The palate made me swoon, such is the beauty on show here. The pristine fruit has been hung on a frame of silky oak (60% new) and subtle winemaking inputs (only 10% went through malolactic fermentation). A gorgeous wine. 13% alc, 96pts – $75.

Cherubino – Dijon – Wychwood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. Another fine wine though here, the fruit flavours have been wound back and the minerality and texture has been turned up a notch. With svelte nectarine and grapefruit, this is a very smart wine, but it needs a couple of years to be at its best. Interestingly, this uses the same Dijon clones (95 & 96) as the Margaret River Chardonnay. 12.9% alc. 94pts – $70.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Not as dense as some for Margaret River, but no less impressive. Here the fruit slowly builds in the mouth, with hints of Ribena showing around the edges. It is not quite seamless right now, as the talc-like tannins just shut down the fruit slightly on the finish, but this is a super-impressive wine that will drink well for a decade or two. With time in the glass the rich, dense fruit really builds, supported by fine grained oak. 14.5% alc, 95+pts – $120.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Shiraz – 2020. This is just a baby. Intense cherry and berry fruit, with gentle spice/pepper and bright, souring acidity that keeps this in check right now. There is excellent length of flavours, but this needs several years for the acid to settle back and allow the high quality fruit to shine. Points for potential. 94pts – $65.

Cherubino – Block 7 – Shiraz – 2020. Oh, I like this wine a lot. Plum, minerality, spice and hints of anise all present on both the nose and palate, but it is the way the flavours and texture flow across the palate that sets this apart. The tannin grip adds texture, but does not impede the fruit. Excellent drinking now, or in ten years. A lovely wine from the Riversdale vineyard. 94+pts – $45.

The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – Shiraz – 2020. Fresher, the pristine fruit is the focus here. Supple, subtle winemaking adds texture and depth, leading to a finish that is silky, long, fine and elegant. Excellent. 93pts – $35.

Singlefile in Focus: April 2023 New Releases

Barry Weinman: 23^rd April 2023

A highlight of recent tastings was to compare and contrast cabernets from the Riversdale vineyard in Frankland. The vineyard is under the control of Larry Cherubino and also provides fruit to the likes of Singlefile.

In 2019, both producer’s top wines were made with fruit from this vineyard, but decisions in the vineyard and winery have resulted in markedly different wines. Singlefile’s Philip Adrian (95pts – $100) comes in at 14.2% alc and is fragrant and pure, whilst Cherubino’s Budsworth ($180, 13.5% alc) is much tauter and more structured, the fruit shy and restrained. Both wines need extended ageing to show their best.

What was most exciting for me, however, was the quality and drinkability of some of the other new release wines that Singlefile have just released from the 2022 vintage.

Be it the spectacular 2022 Pamela Riesling, the rich and generous Family Reserve Chardonnay, or the lip-smackingly delicious Malbec, or the fragrant, supple Porongurup Pinot, all the wines are brilliant drinking straight out of the bottle.

Clearly, this is a vintage to watch in the Great Southern and the value offered by Singlefile is irresistible. Get some whilst you can!

Reviewed

Singlefile – The Pamela – Riesling – 2022. Fragrant and oh so fine, this is such a pretty wine, where the floral/perfumed/talc fruit is the main focus of the show. On the palate, gentle citrus notes build, but it is the minerality and fine fruit that carries the palate, leading to a finish that is bone dry. Seamless and irresistible, this is one of the best drinking young rieslings that I can recall. And sure to age well too. 11.4%alc, 96pts – $45.

From the Misery Hill vineyard in the Porongorups. Only 235 dozen were produced.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2022. This is an impactful wine that has a real wow factor. Here, the fully ripe grapes were beautifully handled in the winery to ensure that the fruit remains the focus, supported by high quality winemaking and oak (1/3 new). Aromas and flavours firmly in the stonefruit and citrus categories, with hints of honey. A complex, powerful wine with great length of flavours. This could take short-term ageing, but personally, I would drink this in its youth given that it already offers so much. 13.3% alc, 95pts – $60.

Singlefile – Pinot Noir – 2022. This has vibrant, cherry/berry fruit typical of pinot which is underpinned by savoury, earthy, almost sappy notes that greatly add to the depth and complexity of the fruit. The fruit carries through on the palate, with the acid and tannins acting as a counterpoint, adding freshness and texture. The supple Burgundian oak (28% new) adds to the appeal. Delicious now, or in 5 years and excellent value. Fruit comes from the Misery Hill vineyard. 94pts – $38.

Singlefile – Clement V – 2021. This is oh so attractive, with ripe berry fruit front and centre, supported by texturing tannins and oak. There is mulberry, plum and cherry, with hints of liquorice and plenty of Asian spices. This is a cooler climate style, and very good indeed. It offers great drinking now and would be excellent with food, if that is your preference. From the Riversdale vineyard, a blend of mataro, shiraz and grenache. 14.2% alc, 93pts – $37.

Singlefile – Malbec – 2022. From a value for money perspective and for pure drinkability, this was the stand-out of the tasting. This is really perfumed with intense, pure berry fruit. Blackcurrant, mint and subtly spiced fruit is framed by very fine tannins and oak (25% new). The finish is silky and long, with excellent balance. Brilliant now, or any time over the next 10 years. A bargain. 14.4% alcohol, 95pts – $30. (Sold out at the winery, but Old Bridge Cellars had stock at the time of writing)

Premium Cabernets: April 2023

Barry Weinman: 16th April 2023

How good is Western Australian cabernet? The answer is truly awesome. The latest releases from the likes of Moss Wood, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate are some of the best wines released under these labels. But the West does not have it all its own way, with terrific wines being made across the country.

This tasting was a chance to look at some of WA’s best and compare them with a smattering of East Coast wines for comparison purposes.

The quality of the Gaia from Grosset and Penfolds Bin 389 reinforced that we really are the lucky country when it comes to high quality wine. Given that both these wines, along with the sensational Leeuwin Cabernet can be bought for under $100 makes them great value in my book.

For me though, the picks of the tasting were the 2020 Moss Wood and the 2019 Tom Cullity. Brilliant wines indeed!

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is a spectacular wine. The redcurrant and blueberry fruit are the main feature, flooding the palate with ripe fruit. The very fine oak adds depth and contributes to the impressive texture though ultimately, the tannins (which are really fine) close down the fruit on the finish. This is a wine that is destined to have a very long future, yet it can be drunk with absolute joy now (try with a fine steak perhaps). 96 – 97pts – $150.

Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet/Malbec – 2019. Wow, wow, wow, this is deep, powerful and so impressive. The aromas and flavours have the typical berry and mint notes you would expect from Margaret River, but it is the layers of spice, coffee and chocolate that set this apart. The tannins and acid are firm, but fit very well within the package, given the sheer density of the fruit. So good now, but sure to develop well for a decade or two. 96pts – $200.

Xanadu – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Oh boy, here we go! This is a wine that, despite being only medium bodied, has incredible depth and intensity. So much power, so much fruit, yet it retains balance and approachability, supported by the very fine tannins and oak. Supple, elegant and a classic in the making. A Tardis of a wine as there is a lot more to this wine than you initially think. 45% new oak, 14% alc, the fruit for this primarily sourced from the Timber Creek and Victory Point vineyards. 96pts – $110.

Grosset – Gaia – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is quite a different style, reflecting its Clare Valley origins. The fruit is obviously high quality, but the acidity, fine tannins and texturing oak (45% new). serve to keep things subdued right now. Ultimately the fruit shines through, with great length of flavours, but this is a long term (20yr) prospect. From another drought year, only 200 dozen of this superb wine were produced. 96pt – $100.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – 2021. This is stylistically different to the other wines here, being tighter and less giving at this early stage. This does not, however, impact in any way on the quality of the wine. Lithe, fresh, elegant and refined, this is quite superb. 91% Cabernet, 50% new oak, 13,5% alc. 95-96pts – $160.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Another super impressive, super impactful wine. The quality of fruit is what carries this wine to another level. That density of fruit makes it somewhat less approachable now, but the wine remains elegant throughout, with the berry fruit a feature, supported by gentle spice and texturing oak. Brilliant value for a premium Margaret River cabernet. 95 – 96pts – $98.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. In comparison to the other wines here, this is something of a bargain. Cooler region fruit has been beautifully handled in the winery to produce a wine of intensity and impact. The elegant blackcurrant fruit is supported by spice (cloves) and cedar from the texturing oak. But it does need time. 91% Cabernet, 16% new oak, 14% alc. 94+pts – $76.

Penfolds – 389 – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2020. Dark, brooding and structure, the density of fruit here is a revelation. Power, intensity, but in a quite raw state right now. Just needs a few years to come together, but the results will be quite special. 95pts – $100.

Vickery: A Masterclass in South Australian Riesling

Barry Weinman: 26th March 2023

For this article, I thought I would give ChatGPT a go for the introduction. Yes, it was interesting, but to me at least, it came across as somewhere between an advertisement and a eulogy.

I have included it at the bottom of the page for interest’s sake, but the rest is very much in the style of Barry Weinman, as written by Barry Weinman.

For diehard riesling fans, John Vickery requires no introduction. Having started with Leo Buring at Chateau Leonay in 1955, John was a pioneer of high quality riesling in Australia. He was also at the forefront of the reintroduction of screwcaps to the Australian wine industry, launching the first commercial wines under screwcap with the 1998 Richmond Grove rieslings.

Fast forward several decades and John is still passionate about riesling, having launched his namesake winery in 2014. The wines are now made by Keeda Zilm (formerly from O’Leary Walker) and are very impressive.

The highlight of the tasting was to witness the stark contrast in styles between the Watervale and Eden Valley wines. The Watervale wines were a beautiful expression of fruit, whereas the Eden Valley wines had greater viscosity and density, with the minerality and gentle toast notes playing a bigger role.

Whilst the wines from Watervale were my pick for earlier consumption, the Eden Valley wines came into their own the next day, with the fruit building and the secondary characters melding into the fruit. Aging seems a sure bet for all the wines.
2022 was a very good year for rieslings and they are worth seeking out.

Reviewed.

Vickery – The Reserve – Eden Valley EVR903Z – Riesling – 2019. Viscous, textured, rounded and very approachable. This is such a good drink young. There is gentle toast and even a touch of honey along with lemon and lime, gentle floral/talc notes and minerality. With air, this really blossomed and was at it’s best the next day. 93pts – $35.

Vickery – The Reserve – Watervale WVR 203 K – Riesling – 2019. This had a similar feel to the Eden Valley Reserve, but was a little more rounded, with a little more primary fruit and more citrus notes. The acid focus here is the key feature, helping to drive the excellent palate length. Excellent with food and a cellaring prospect. 92pts – $35

Vickery – Eden Valley – Riesling – 2022. This is steely and taut, racy even. Yet the balance and poise are exceptional. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the lime-like acidity running beautifully across the finish. A hint of residual sugar (2.7g/l) adds to the drinking pleasure. A great wine. With air, the aromatics build, revealing a lovely perfume. 12.5% alc. 95pts – $24.

Vickery – Watervale – Riesling – 2022. A tighter, more acid-driven style without the absolute depth of the previous wine. Straddles the middle ground, with fresh lime and zest notes and gentle texture. It was only with air that the real potential of this wine became apparent, with pristine fruit on display. 95pts – $24.

And from ChatGPT….

John Vickery is one of Australia’s most celebrated winemakers, known for his exceptional talent and experience in crafting some of the country’s finest wines. With over 60 years in the wine industry, John has honed his skills to perfection, consistently producing wines of unparalleled quality and complexity. His passion for winemaking and dedication to his craft have earned him numerous accolades and awards, cementing his place as a true legend of the Australian wine scene.

John’s career began in the early 1950s, where he worked as a viticulturist at Leo Buring Wines. It was here that he developed his knowledge of grape growing and winemaking techniques, laying the foundation for his future success. In 1973, John was appointed Chief Winemaker at the iconic Australian winery, Chateau Reynella, where he continued to hone his craft and push the boundaries of winemaking.

Over the years, John has become renowned for his expertise in crafting riesling, with his wines consistently receiving critical acclaim both in Australia and internationally. He is also well known for his mastery of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, among other varieties, with his wines showcasing the perfect balance of fruit, tannin, and acidity.

Today, John remains a highly respected figure in the Australian wine industry, and his legacy continues to inspire and influence winemakers around the country. His passion for winemaking and commitment to excellence have helped shape the Australian wine scene, and his wines are a true testament to his unparalleled talent and dedication.

            ChatGPT 20th March 2023

Skigh Wine

Barry Weinman: 19 March 2023

Skigh Winery takes its name from winemaker Skigh McMannus. Having started his career at Howard Park, Skigh worked vintages at wineries in various wine regions across the globe, before establishing his eponymous winery in 2016.

The premium wines in the range were initially under the Abacus label, but a stoush with Chapel Hill in McLaren Vale has resulted in these wines been labelled Skigh. (Chapel Hill have resurrected the Abacus moniker for a new range of wines).

The panel recently sat down to look at the latest premium releases under the Skigh label and were suitably impressed.

There are no points in this review, given that the wines were tasted unblinded with the winemaker. But the wines are made to reflect the intrinsic quality and style of the fruit and are an honest representation of Margaret River.

They are definitely worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Skigh – Second Skin – Blanc de Blanc – 2021. Predominantly Clone 1 from Wallcliffe and Wilyabrup. Picked early to retain acidity and keep alcohol levels in check. Part of the fruit was aged in barrels before bottling. The subsequent wine spent 10 months on lees prior to disgorgement. A fresh style where the chardonnay fruit characters shine. Made in an extra brut (dry) style, the finish is dry and satisfying. An apéritif style that works well. $55

Skigh – Homage – Chardonnay – 2021. The texture is a feature here. The high-quality fruit has peach and nectarine notes with hints of citrus adding freshness. Fine grained oak plays an important textural role, rather than adding primary flavours. The finish is fine and long. Estate grown fruit (Clone 1), aged in French oak (1/3 new), with lees stirring and partial malolactic fermentation. $58.

Skigh – Long Lunch – Grenache – 2021. The fruit comes from the Swinney vineyard in Frankland. This is a delightful expression of grenache. Fleshy, vibrant and very long, the cherry-like fruit is a highlight. 15% whole bunch fermentation adds to the vibrancy of the fruit, whilst the oak (20% new) is primarily used to polish the tannins, as opposed to adding any overt flavours. My pick for early drinking. $58.

Skigh –Home – Syrah – 2021. Estate grown fruit is dense, powerful and textured, with plum and blueberry the key features, supported by peppery spice. The finish is drying and long. From a cooler vintage, with 20% whole-bunch fermentation, this is an excellent example of medium-weight shiraz. $58.

Skigh – Elsie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. From a vineyard on Wildwood Rd in Yallingup, this is a cracking cabernet in a slightly plusher, more generous style than we typically see from the more southerly districts in Margaret River. Redcurrant fruit is supported by a supple texture and fine, polished tannins. The oak (15% new) is imperceptible. Excellent now, or in 10 years. $58.