Cherubino in 2023: The Classics Revisited

Barry Weinman: 1^st May 2023

The last time I checked, Larry Cherubino was producing almost 70 different wines from fruit sourced across the south-west of Western Australia. Many of these wines are produced from less mainstream varieties (such as Fiano and Tempranillo) or from mainstream varieties made using alternative winemaking techniques.

But the core of the range remains the superb wines made from cabernet, chardonnay, riesling and shiraz, from vineyards spread across the south-west.

And the wines are in sparkling form. The rieslings and the Margaret River Chardonnay in particular were very special indeed.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Great Southern – Riesling – 2022. Crisp and taut, yet simultaneously silky and fine. There are concentrated lime juice fruit characters, without the aggressive acidity associated with the fruit. The length of flavour is excellent, with the citrus notes lingering for what feels like minutes. But the most impressive feature of all is the texture and mouthfeel. There is a degree of viscosity and minerality that sets this apart. An intense wine. 95pts – $39.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Riesling – 2022. Fine, restrained and elegant, but this is not austere or aggressive in the slightest. Rather the palate has cascading fruit from front to back highlighted by lime-like acidity and texturing minerality. The latter is a key feature of this wine. Will benefit from extended aging, but is already a special wine at this early stage. 95pts – $35.

Cherubino – Laissez Faire – Riesling – 2020. Here, the phenolics have been turned up, making for a very textural/viscous wine with plenty of character. The high-quality fruit is somewhat subdued, and needs a little more time to unwind. This is an impactful wine with plenty of character, which would be a great accompaniment to gently spiced food. 93pts – $35.

Cherubino – Margaret River – Chardonnay – 2021. Pretty pretty floral and stonefruit characters that are quite stunning, even if it is not quite typical of Margaret River (The fruit was Dijon clones 95 &96 rather than the more typical Gin Gin clone. The palate made me swoon, such is the beauty on show here. The pristine fruit has been hung on a frame of silky oak (60% new) and subtle winemaking inputs (only 10% went through malolactic fermentation). A gorgeous wine. 13% alc, 96pts – $75.

Cherubino – Dijon – Wychwood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. Another fine wine though here, the fruit flavours have been wound back and the minerality and texture has been turned up a notch. With svelte nectarine and grapefruit, this is a very smart wine, but it needs a couple of years to be at its best. Interestingly, this uses the same Dijon clones (95 & 96) as the Margaret River Chardonnay. 12.9% alc. 94pts – $70.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Not as dense as some for Margaret River, but no less impressive. Here the fruit slowly builds in the mouth, with hints of Ribena showing around the edges. It is not quite seamless right now, as the talc-like tannins just shut down the fruit slightly on the finish, but this is a super-impressive wine that will drink well for a decade or two. With time in the glass the rich, dense fruit really builds, supported by fine grained oak. 14.5% alc, 95+pts – $120.

Cherubino – Frankland River – Shiraz – 2020. This is just a baby. Intense cherry and berry fruit, with gentle spice/pepper and bright, souring acidity that keeps this in check right now. There is excellent length of flavours, but this needs several years for the acid to settle back and allow the high quality fruit to shine. Points for potential. 94pts – $65.

Cherubino – Block 7 – Shiraz – 2020. Oh, I like this wine a lot. Plum, minerality, spice and hints of anise all present on both the nose and palate, but it is the way the flavours and texture flow across the palate that sets this apart. The tannin grip adds texture, but does not impede the fruit. Excellent drinking now, or in ten years. A lovely wine from the Riversdale vineyard. 94+pts – $45.

The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – Shiraz – 2020. Fresher, the pristine fruit is the focus here. Supple, subtle winemaking adds texture and depth, leading to a finish that is silky, long, fine and elegant. Excellent. 93pts – $35.

Singlefile in Focus: April 2023 New Releases

Barry Weinman: 23^rd April 2023

A highlight of recent tastings was to compare and contrast cabernets from the Riversdale vineyard in Frankland. The vineyard is under the control of Larry Cherubino and also provides fruit to the likes of Singlefile.

In 2019, both producer’s top wines were made with fruit from this vineyard, but decisions in the vineyard and winery have resulted in markedly different wines. Singlefile’s Philip Adrian (95pts – $100) comes in at 14.2% alc and is fragrant and pure, whilst Cherubino’s Budsworth ($180, 13.5% alc) is much tauter and more structured, the fruit shy and restrained. Both wines need extended ageing to show their best.

What was most exciting for me, however, was the quality and drinkability of some of the other new release wines that Singlefile have just released from the 2022 vintage.

Be it the spectacular 2022 Pamela Riesling, the rich and generous Family Reserve Chardonnay, or the lip-smackingly delicious Malbec, or the fragrant, supple Porongurup Pinot, all the wines are brilliant drinking straight out of the bottle.

Clearly, this is a vintage to watch in the Great Southern and the value offered by Singlefile is irresistible. Get some whilst you can!

Reviewed

Singlefile – The Pamela – Riesling – 2022. Fragrant and oh so fine, this is such a pretty wine, where the floral/perfumed/talc fruit is the main focus of the show. On the palate, gentle citrus notes build, but it is the minerality and fine fruit that carries the palate, leading to a finish that is bone dry. Seamless and irresistible, this is one of the best drinking young rieslings that I can recall. And sure to age well too. 11.4%alc, 96pts – $45.

From the Misery Hill vineyard in the Porongorups. Only 235 dozen were produced.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2022. This is an impactful wine that has a real wow factor. Here, the fully ripe grapes were beautifully handled in the winery to ensure that the fruit remains the focus, supported by high quality winemaking and oak (1/3 new). Aromas and flavours firmly in the stonefruit and citrus categories, with hints of honey. A complex, powerful wine with great length of flavours. This could take short-term ageing, but personally, I would drink this in its youth given that it already offers so much. 13.3% alc, 95pts – $60.

Singlefile – Pinot Noir – 2022. This has vibrant, cherry/berry fruit typical of pinot which is underpinned by savoury, earthy, almost sappy notes that greatly add to the depth and complexity of the fruit. The fruit carries through on the palate, with the acid and tannins acting as a counterpoint, adding freshness and texture. The supple Burgundian oak (28% new) adds to the appeal. Delicious now, or in 5 years and excellent value. Fruit comes from the Misery Hill vineyard. 94pts – $38.

Singlefile – Clement V – 2021. This is oh so attractive, with ripe berry fruit front and centre, supported by texturing tannins and oak. There is mulberry, plum and cherry, with hints of liquorice and plenty of Asian spices. This is a cooler climate style, and very good indeed. It offers great drinking now and would be excellent with food, if that is your preference. From the Riversdale vineyard, a blend of mataro, shiraz and grenache. 14.2% alc, 93pts – $37.

Singlefile – Malbec – 2022. From a value for money perspective and for pure drinkability, this was the stand-out of the tasting. This is really perfumed with intense, pure berry fruit. Blackcurrant, mint and subtly spiced fruit is framed by very fine tannins and oak (25% new). The finish is silky and long, with excellent balance. Brilliant now, or any time over the next 10 years. A bargain. 14.4% alcohol, 95pts – $30. (Sold out at the winery, but Old Bridge Cellars had stock at the time of writing)

Premium Cabernets: April 2023

Barry Weinman: 16th April 2023

How good is Western Australian cabernet? The answer is truly awesome. The latest releases from the likes of Moss Wood, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate are some of the best wines released under these labels. But the West does not have it all its own way, with terrific wines being made across the country.

This tasting was a chance to look at some of WA’s best and compare them with a smattering of East Coast wines for comparison purposes.

The quality of the Gaia from Grosset and Penfolds Bin 389 reinforced that we really are the lucky country when it comes to high quality wine. Given that both these wines, along with the sensational Leeuwin Cabernet can be bought for under $100 makes them great value in my book.

For me though, the picks of the tasting were the 2020 Moss Wood and the 2019 Tom Cullity. Brilliant wines indeed!

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is a spectacular wine. The redcurrant and blueberry fruit are the main feature, flooding the palate with ripe fruit. The very fine oak adds depth and contributes to the impressive texture though ultimately, the tannins (which are really fine) close down the fruit on the finish. This is a wine that is destined to have a very long future, yet it can be drunk with absolute joy now (try with a fine steak perhaps). 96 – 97pts – $150.

Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet/Malbec – 2019. Wow, wow, wow, this is deep, powerful and so impressive. The aromas and flavours have the typical berry and mint notes you would expect from Margaret River, but it is the layers of spice, coffee and chocolate that set this apart. The tannins and acid are firm, but fit very well within the package, given the sheer density of the fruit. So good now, but sure to develop well for a decade or two. 96pts – $200.

Xanadu – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Oh boy, here we go! This is a wine that, despite being only medium bodied, has incredible depth and intensity. So much power, so much fruit, yet it retains balance and approachability, supported by the very fine tannins and oak. Supple, elegant and a classic in the making. A Tardis of a wine as there is a lot more to this wine than you initially think. 45% new oak, 14% alc, the fruit for this primarily sourced from the Timber Creek and Victory Point vineyards. 96pts – $110.

Grosset – Gaia – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is quite a different style, reflecting its Clare Valley origins. The fruit is obviously high quality, but the acidity, fine tannins and texturing oak (45% new). serve to keep things subdued right now. Ultimately the fruit shines through, with great length of flavours, but this is a long term (20yr) prospect. From another drought year, only 200 dozen of this superb wine were produced. 96pt – $100.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – 2021. This is stylistically different to the other wines here, being tighter and less giving at this early stage. This does not, however, impact in any way on the quality of the wine. Lithe, fresh, elegant and refined, this is quite superb. 91% Cabernet, 50% new oak, 13,5% alc. 95-96pts – $160.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Another super impressive, super impactful wine. The quality of fruit is what carries this wine to another level. That density of fruit makes it somewhat less approachable now, but the wine remains elegant throughout, with the berry fruit a feature, supported by gentle spice and texturing oak. Brilliant value for a premium Margaret River cabernet. 95 – 96pts – $98.

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. In comparison to the other wines here, this is something of a bargain. Cooler region fruit has been beautifully handled in the winery to produce a wine of intensity and impact. The elegant blackcurrant fruit is supported by spice (cloves) and cedar from the texturing oak. But it does need time. 91% Cabernet, 16% new oak, 14% alc. 94+pts – $76.

Penfolds – 389 – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2020. Dark, brooding and structure, the density of fruit here is a revelation. Power, intensity, but in a quite raw state right now. Just needs a few years to come together, but the results will be quite special. 95pts – $100.

Vickery: A Masterclass in South Australian Riesling

Barry Weinman: 26th March 2023

For this article, I thought I would give ChatGPT a go for the introduction. Yes, it was interesting, but to me at least, it came across as somewhere between an advertisement and a eulogy.

I have included it at the bottom of the page for interest’s sake, but the rest is very much in the style of Barry Weinman, as written by Barry Weinman.

For diehard riesling fans, John Vickery requires no introduction. Having started with Leo Buring at Chateau Leonay in 1955, John was a pioneer of high quality riesling in Australia. He was also at the forefront of the reintroduction of screwcaps to the Australian wine industry, launching the first commercial wines under screwcap with the 1998 Richmond Grove rieslings.

Fast forward several decades and John is still passionate about riesling, having launched his namesake winery in 2014. The wines are now made by Keeda Zilm (formerly from O’Leary Walker) and are very impressive.

The highlight of the tasting was to witness the stark contrast in styles between the Watervale and Eden Valley wines. The Watervale wines were a beautiful expression of fruit, whereas the Eden Valley wines had greater viscosity and density, with the minerality and gentle toast notes playing a bigger role.

Whilst the wines from Watervale were my pick for earlier consumption, the Eden Valley wines came into their own the next day, with the fruit building and the secondary characters melding into the fruit. Aging seems a sure bet for all the wines.
2022 was a very good year for rieslings and they are worth seeking out.

Reviewed.

Vickery – The Reserve – Eden Valley EVR903Z – Riesling – 2019. Viscous, textured, rounded and very approachable. This is such a good drink young. There is gentle toast and even a touch of honey along with lemon and lime, gentle floral/talc notes and minerality. With air, this really blossomed and was at it’s best the next day. 93pts – $35.

Vickery – The Reserve – Watervale WVR 203 K – Riesling – 2019. This had a similar feel to the Eden Valley Reserve, but was a little more rounded, with a little more primary fruit and more citrus notes. The acid focus here is the key feature, helping to drive the excellent palate length. Excellent with food and a cellaring prospect. 92pts – $35

Vickery – Eden Valley – Riesling – 2022. This is steely and taut, racy even. Yet the balance and poise are exceptional. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the lime-like acidity running beautifully across the finish. A hint of residual sugar (2.7g/l) adds to the drinking pleasure. A great wine. With air, the aromatics build, revealing a lovely perfume. 12.5% alc. 95pts – $24.

Vickery – Watervale – Riesling – 2022. A tighter, more acid-driven style without the absolute depth of the previous wine. Straddles the middle ground, with fresh lime and zest notes and gentle texture. It was only with air that the real potential of this wine became apparent, with pristine fruit on display. 95pts – $24.

And from ChatGPT….

John Vickery is one of Australia’s most celebrated winemakers, known for his exceptional talent and experience in crafting some of the country’s finest wines. With over 60 years in the wine industry, John has honed his skills to perfection, consistently producing wines of unparalleled quality and complexity. His passion for winemaking and dedication to his craft have earned him numerous accolades and awards, cementing his place as a true legend of the Australian wine scene.

John’s career began in the early 1950s, where he worked as a viticulturist at Leo Buring Wines. It was here that he developed his knowledge of grape growing and winemaking techniques, laying the foundation for his future success. In 1973, John was appointed Chief Winemaker at the iconic Australian winery, Chateau Reynella, where he continued to hone his craft and push the boundaries of winemaking.

Over the years, John has become renowned for his expertise in crafting riesling, with his wines consistently receiving critical acclaim both in Australia and internationally. He is also well known for his mastery of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, among other varieties, with his wines showcasing the perfect balance of fruit, tannin, and acidity.

Today, John remains a highly respected figure in the Australian wine industry, and his legacy continues to inspire and influence winemakers around the country. His passion for winemaking and commitment to excellence have helped shape the Australian wine scene, and his wines are a true testament to his unparalleled talent and dedication.

            ChatGPT 20th March 2023

Skigh Wine

Barry Weinman: 19 March 2023

Skigh Winery takes its name from winemaker Skigh McMannus. Having started his career at Howard Park, Skigh worked vintages at wineries in various wine regions across the globe, before establishing his eponymous winery in 2016.

The premium wines in the range were initially under the Abacus label, but a stoush with Chapel Hill in McLaren Vale has resulted in these wines been labelled Skigh. (Chapel Hill have resurrected the Abacus moniker for a new range of wines).

The panel recently sat down to look at the latest premium releases under the Skigh label and were suitably impressed.

There are no points in this review, given that the wines were tasted unblinded with the winemaker. But the wines are made to reflect the intrinsic quality and style of the fruit and are an honest representation of Margaret River.

They are definitely worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Skigh – Second Skin – Blanc de Blanc – 2021. Predominantly Clone 1 from Wallcliffe and Wilyabrup. Picked early to retain acidity and keep alcohol levels in check. Part of the fruit was aged in barrels before bottling. The subsequent wine spent 10 months on lees prior to disgorgement. A fresh style where the chardonnay fruit characters shine. Made in an extra brut (dry) style, the finish is dry and satisfying. An apéritif style that works well. $55

Skigh – Homage – Chardonnay – 2021. The texture is a feature here. The high-quality fruit has peach and nectarine notes with hints of citrus adding freshness. Fine grained oak plays an important textural role, rather than adding primary flavours. The finish is fine and long. Estate grown fruit (Clone 1), aged in French oak (1/3 new), with lees stirring and partial malolactic fermentation. $58.

Skigh – Long Lunch – Grenache – 2021. The fruit comes from the Swinney vineyard in Frankland. This is a delightful expression of grenache. Fleshy, vibrant and very long, the cherry-like fruit is a highlight. 15% whole bunch fermentation adds to the vibrancy of the fruit, whilst the oak (20% new) is primarily used to polish the tannins, as opposed to adding any overt flavours. My pick for early drinking. $58.

Skigh –Home – Syrah – 2021. Estate grown fruit is dense, powerful and textured, with plum and blueberry the key features, supported by peppery spice. The finish is drying and long. From a cooler vintage, with 20% whole-bunch fermentation, this is an excellent example of medium-weight shiraz. $58.

Skigh – Elsie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. From a vineyard on Wildwood Rd in Yallingup, this is a cracking cabernet in a slightly plusher, more generous style than we typically see from the more southerly districts in Margaret River. Redcurrant fruit is supported by a supple texture and fine, polished tannins. The oak (15% new) is imperceptible. Excellent now, or in 10 years. $58.

New Release Chardonnay: March 2023

Barry Weinman: 11th March 2023

In a line-up of quite expensive white Burgundies, three wines stood out for the quality and value that was on offer.

The highest pointed wine in this blind tasting was the Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay. That it sells for less than half the price of some of the comparators is testament to the value and quality that is available in Australia.

Even better value was the “premium” chardonnay (gold capsule) from Vasse Felix. At $50, this was the cheapest wine in the tasting, but it performed admirably, showing a purity of fruit missing in some of the French wines.

The surprise for me was the quality offered by Domaine Humbert’s Bourgogne. Whilst I can find no information on this wine, I am informed that the fruit for this comes from Gevrey-Chambertin and wears the humble Bourgogne label as a result, even though this has been carefully crafted including the use of a portion of new oak barrels.

I strongly encourage you to try these wines if the opportunity presents.

Reviewed.

Domaine Humbert Fréres – Bourgogne Blanc – Chardonnay – 2019. This stood out in the tasting for the combination of minerally, savoury notes typical of the region and superb fruit that shows impressive depth and power. There is an amalgam of stone fruit, pineapple and citrus, but no single feature stands out. The palate is near seamless and the intensity and length of flavours are noteworthy. Very impressive indeed. As this is a white Gevrey-Chambertin, it wears the Bourgogne label. 94+pts – $???. From Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2021. I like this a lot. Initially, it felt like the fruit weight has been pared back in comparison to earlier releases, but in a big glass, this really opened up over an hour or so to reveal beautifully ripe and pure fruit complemented by minerality and acidity that combine with the winemaking inputs to make for a superb wine. The finish is refined, elegant and restrained, yet there is considerable depth and power. An exciting wine that deserves fine food (A simple mushroom risotto worked a treat). 96pts – $120.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2021 . This has been really well made. The precise ripe fruit is fine and elegant, supported by texturing oak and lees work that elevates this beyond the norm. Gentle stonefruit and citrus notes build in the glass and the texture is noteworthy. Lacks the ultimate depth of the Heytesbury, but is a fine wine by any standard and excellent value to boot. It does need time to open up, or serve it in a big glass and give it plenty of air. Like the Heytesbury, do not serve this too cold. 93-94pts – $50.

New Release Chardonnay: December 2022

Barry Weinman: 12^th December 2022

Perspective is so important when comparing wines, and the inclusion of the superb Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Voyager MJW chardonnays in this masked line up of wines served as an excellent reference point for the rest of the wines.

And a few of the 15 wines tasted were able to hold their heads up high in what was a very high quality line-up.

The stars for me where the Juniper Estate’s Cornerstone Chardonnay and Domaine Naturaliste’s Artus Chardonnay.

A real surprise was the Wombat Creek Chardonnay from Handpicked wines. This is the exception to the rule and shows that lower alcohol chardonnay can produce a complex wine, which is really enjoyable on release. Super stuff.

And from a value perspective, Ferngrove’s Diamond Chardonnay is a fine example of a cooler climate wine.

Reviewed

Domaine Naturaliste – Artus – Chardonnay – 2021. There is so much going on here. Curry leaf minerality, struck match notes, lees work, barrel ferment, oak and malolactic fermentation all play a role. This is a high impact, intense, powerful style, which has been done very well. The fruit sits a little behind all of the funky notes initially, but the pineapple and stone fruit characters build in the glass. A complex, serious and worked wine. 100% Gingin clone, wild yeast, full malolactic fermentation, 10 months in oak (40% new) 13% alc. 95pts – $56.

Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Chardonnay – 2020. This is fine and elegant, with gentle cashew notes supporting the supple fruit. Hints of peach and nectarine are supported by subtle winemaking inputs. Whilst lithe and elegant, there is underlying depth and richness , which makes this quite special. Youthful and taut, this will also cellar well for up to a decade. From a mature vineyard in Karridale, French oak barriques (45% new), 13.5% alc. Try with grilled asparagus and marinated feta. 95pts – $70.

Hand Picked – Wombat Creek Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2020. Supple, rounded and balanced, this is a captivating wine that combines ripe stone fruit aromas and flavours with gentle winemaking inputs. Grapefruit acidity drives the finish, with light toast oak adding depth. The length is a highlight. Great drinking now, but will be better with age. 11.9% alc. 94 – 95pts – TBC.

Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2021. Pristine fruit that is so fine and delicate. Subtle stone fruit (white peach) notes build and are supported by gentle nutty notes. The palate is silky, near seamless, gently textured and very long. A lovely wine that is refined, elegant and superb drinking. Now – 7 years. Barrel ferment (40%new), partial malo, 13.5% alc. 95pts – $70

Ferngrove – Diamond – Chardonnay – 2021. This is intense, in a cooler climate way where the characters tend more to grapefruit, rather than stone fruit. The length and persistence are quite remarkable. Whilst the acidity is a feature, it is the pretty floral and peach notes that build in the glass , which are the highlight. Gentle grip adds texture on the close. 12.5% Alc. 93pts -$32

Plantagenet – Three Lions – Chardonnay – 2021. This is pretty and floral, with gentle citrus and white peach notes. The palate is really fine and elegant, with just a whisper of oak in the background adding texture and weight, without any overt flavours. Understated, this is excellent value current drinking. 91pts – $26.

Evans & Tate – Wild Cape – Chardonnay – 2021. Creamy and supple, with a core of lemony acid that runs the length of the palate. This is quite linear but should flesh out nicely with a couple of years in the bottle. Commendable length and persistence at this price point. 90pts – $25.

Levantine Hill in Focus: November 202

Wine reviews by Barry Weinman: 23^rd November 2022

That Levantine Hill is so successful is no accident. Rumour has it that in excess of $100 million has been spent on setting up the vineyards, cellar door and winery and, under the watchful eye of Paul Bridgeman, the wines are living up to expectations and their reputation has been steadily growing on the east coast.

This is the first time the panel has had the opportunity to taste the Levantine Hill range and we were deeply impressed by the wines.

Whilst the single vineyard wines are intense, powerful and age-worthy, it was the Estate range that was most exciting for me. Coming from the superb 2018 vintage, the elegance and balance were a highlight in these wines, and, at $80 per bottle, they represent fair value given the quality on show.

Reviewed

Levantine Hill – Chardonnay – 2018. This smells expensive and somewhat Burgundian. Complex, textural and, more importantly, ripe. The superb fruit is supported by gentle worked characters (struck match, lees stirring). Excellent length and depth, with minerality adding to the complexity. Made from Mendoza clone fruit, 10 months in oak (20% new). 94pts – $80

Levantine Hill – Katherine’s Paddock – Chardonnay – 2018. A mixture of Mendoza and Bernard clones that underwent partial Malo. This is more subtle and delicate. Pristine fruit, but here everything has been pared back allowing the texture and mouthfeel to shine. Whilst ripe, this is delicate, refined and shy, with subtle power and minerality. Will be great over the next 5 years, but is a style that is unusual for Australia. 95pts – $120.

Levantine Hill – Pinot Noir – 2018. Very pale colour that has an almost copper tinge. Pretty, elegant and refined, with strawberry fruit, a silky texture and seamless palate transition. A veritable peacock’s tail of fruit fans out across the finish, and there is great length of flavours. Very, very good indeed. $95pts – $80.

Levantine Hill – Colleen’s Paddock – Pinot Noir – 2017. This is impressive, but not very approachable right now. The fruit is lithe and elegant, but there is great depth and intrinsic power to the fruit. Not silky, but intense and powerful. Age-worthy! 95pts – $200.

Levantine Hill – Syrah – 2018. Wow, wow, wow! This reminds me of Clonakilla. The berry fruit is oh-so-pretty, supported by supple spice notes. Very fine tannins support a palate that is long, elegant and supple, with a savoury tinge adding depth. An amazing wine. 96pts – $80.

Levantine Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. The menthol tinged fruit has depth and power, but this is a different style to those produced in WA. Near seamless, very long and expansive, this is a big wine, even if it is cooler climate. Impressive, but really needs time. 93pts – $80.

New Release Highlights: November 2022

Wine reviews by Barry Weinman: 21 November 2022

There were a number of highlights over the last few weeks, including a pair of very fine 2022 rieslings from the Great Southern.

The Singlefile a little more forward, compared to the Ferngrove, but both are delicious and represent remarkable value (like most good rieslings produced in Australia).

There were also some fine cabernets that offer the magic combination of early drinkability and cellarability. The Vasse Felix and Capel Vale were my picks.

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cossack – Riesling – 2022. Pear skin, musk and sherbet aromatics are supported by muted citrus on the nose. The palate is bracing and lively, with fine texture and excellent length of flavours. The finish feels dry, and the acidity will support ageing. 94pts – $30.

Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2022. I love the suppleness of this wine. The high-quality fruit is complemented by ever-so-fine acidity that lends this wine great drinkability. Enjoy with shellfish now or try medium-term cellaring. 94pts – $35.

Plantagenet – Three Lions – Pinot Noir – 2021. This is a compelling offering. Typicity, ripe fruit and supple winemaking all combine to make for an excellent pinot at this price point. Not overly dense but makes up for this with vibrancy and generosity. Good drinking if not overly complex. 17.5pts – $26.

Moorooduc Estate – The Moorooduc – McIntyre – Pinot Noir – 2019. There is great depth, texture and intensity here, with the fruit showing as cherry and plum. The palate is very long and persistent, with the plush mouthfeel balanced by slightly gravelly tannins. Pretty floral/honeysuckle highlights add to a wine that is a lovely drink now – 5 years. 94-95pts – $80.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Beautiful fruit on the nose. Pretty and ripe, with cassis, blackcurrant, cherry and spice. The palate is supple, silky and very refined. Really elegant, yet with depth and great balance. Absolutely superb straight out of the bottle, but age-worthy as well. Serious stuff! 95pts – $55.

Lake Breeze – Arthur’s Reserve – Cabernet/Malbec – 2018. This wine stood out due to the savoury notes which complemented the ripe fruit which was redolent of blackcurrant. The polished texture is a highlight, with fine tannins and supple oak supporting a finish that is dense and powerful. This would be a great match with lamb shanks, or a hearty casserole. Received 97pts from one panelist! 94pts – $42.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Ripe fruit, supple winemaking, quality oak to produce a near seamless wine with excellent length and persistence of flavours. Yet this is subtle, refined and elegant, making for a great drink now, or in ten years. A very satisfying wine that received unanimous support. 95pts – $30.

Credaro in Focus: November 2022

Wine reviews by Barry Weinman: 1^st November 2022

A little while back, I wrote briefly about the fascinating story of Credaro: https://finewineclub.com.au/2019/12/19/credaro/

The next chapter in that story is happening in 2022, with the family celebrating the 100th anniversary of the planting of the first vines on the family property in Carbanup.

It should be noted that this was not a commercial venture, with the grapes produced being made into wine for family consumption. It was only in the 1980s that the family embarked on commercial viticulture. But it makes for a nice story and a reason to celebrate.

Another reason to celebrate is that the wines are in top form. Trent Kelly has been in control of winemaking since 2017, and there has been a consistently high standard in the subsequent years.

There will be a number of events to celebrate the 100th anniversary, and some special releases to go along with them. The focus of these will be on non-traditional varieties for the region, including some delicious wines made from fragola. This was the variety that the family planted 100 years ago.

The Kinship range represents good value, but it is the 1000 Crown range that is most exciting.

I would definitely recommend trying the wines if you get the chance.

Reviewed

Credaro – Kinship – Chardonnay – 2021. Vibrant and juicy, with supple oak adding texture and depth. Excellent balance and mouthfeel, with noteworthy length of flavour and refreshing acidity. (No malolactic fermentation). Great drinking and would take food very well. (35% new oak. Wild ferment. Whole bunch press). 93pts – $40.

Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Chardonnay – 2021. More restrained and closed, with subtle power emanating from the palate. The fruit really builds with air, and there is more minerality here than in the Kinship. The texturing oak is very fine. Near seamless, the fruit unfolds on the palate, accompanied by great length and depth of flavours. Aromas include grapefruit, nectarine and gentle nutty characters supported by creamy curry leaf minerality. From a single vineyard in Wilyabrup planted in 1987. Winemaking influences include 30% new oak (low toast), wild fermentation, lees stirring, no malolactic fermentation and whole bunch press. 95pts – $80.

Credaro – Kinship – Shiraz – 2021. Liquorice, plum and savoury, earthy notes leading to a textured, chewy palate with dense mulberry-like fruit flooding the senses. This is a serious effort and, whilst approachable and really gluggable, needs five years to really shine. The fruit from this comes from the Cellar Door vineyard (50%), with the rest from Wilyabrup. 93pts – $40.

Credaro – 1000 Crowns – Shiraz – 2021. Souring plum notes, but this is much more savoury, with the supple fruit tightly bound with the tannins and structural oak. That said, the near seamless palate is expansive and captivating, with pristine darker fruit flavours. Superb now, but also very age-worthy. The fruit comes from the Wilyabrup vineyard and 15% underwent whole-bunch fermentation. 95pts – $80.

Credaro – Kinship – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Clean, fresh and bright, yet with depth of fruit and supple texture. There is beautifully ripe fruit, with berry characters exploding on the palate. The finish is supple, textured and delicious, though this would also benefit from time in the cellar. Impressive. (60% Wilyabrup/40% Yallingup). 95pts – $40.

Credaro 1000 – Crowns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This feels somewhat immature in comparison to the Kinship. Taut, unyielding and with firm acid and tannins, this requires faith and extended cellaring to reach its best. But it should be superb. The fruit for this wine comes from a relatively new vineyard made up of 70% Houghton Clone and 30% 337 (Margaux clone). 95+pts – $80.

Credaro – Kinship – Fragola – 2021. This is known as the “strawberry” grape and is considered to be a superb eating grape. And yes, this has strawberry fruit that is fleshy, supple and delicious. Approachable and totally smashable, with enough structure to keep the balance. This will be part of a yet to be released “heritage” range, reflecting the Italian heritage of the family. 93pts – $40.

Credaro – Sangiovese – 2020. This is altogether more serious and structured, and is textural, fine, and elegant. There is excellent length to the cherry-like fruit and the winemaking adds texture rather than overt flavours. Very worthwhile. 93pts – $TBC.