Category Archives: Pinot Noir – Wine Reviews

Burgundy 2008

Boot-Full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

March 2011

One of the most important events on the calendar of the Institute of Masters of Wine is the Annual Burgundy tasting. This year, the 2008 vintage was featured, and the tasting was organised in association with Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition. I was lucky enough to be able to attend.

2008 was a difficult year in Burgundy, and has been christened “the miracle vintage”. The miracle to which they refer is the burst of sunshine the region experienced, accompanied by fresh (and, importantly, drying) northerly winds from the second week of September to the beginning of October.

The cool and humid start to spring was a harbinger of things to come. The whole growing season was wet and cool, with the crop beset by coulure climatique (physiological failure of fruit set) and millerandage (variation in berry size). 2007 was also a cool and wet vintage, but by the end of June, the 2008 vintage was further than three weeks behind where the 2007 grapes were at the same time.

Rot and mildew were a constant threat (those growing organically or biodynamically were particularly challenged), and called for attentive vineyard management. The period of sunshine helped greatly to keep these maladies at bay in the weeks before harvest, but though the sun shone, it was cool, especially at night. Thus the wind concentrated the sugar in the grapes, but full physiological ripeness was difficult to achieve.

The other key to producing good wines in this vintage (other than obsessional vineyard practices) was strict and often laborious sorting. I have heard that some producers rejected up to 40% of their fruit, giving yields as low as 16hl/ha.

As a result, I went to the tasting expecting that acidity levels would be very high (they were – in fact malolactic fermentation took ages to be completed), and that some wines (both red and white) would be a bit lean (indeed some were).

My overall impression was that whites fared better than reds, and that the Cotes de Nuits shaded the Cotes de Beaune (though I enjoyed several of the wines from Corton). I will confess that I am, as Michael Schuster puts it, one who likes my white Burgundy “taut, refreshing, aromatically complex and minerally”. There were no fat white Burgundies here!

But this vintage (though some would argue, every vintage) was more about the producer than the provenance of the wine. Those producers who were fastidious in both the vineyard practices and in their sorting were able to do great things. Below I will highlight a few producers whose wines I thoroughly enjoyed.

**CHANSON

Chassagne-Montrachet – Les Chenevottes – 1er Cru (White). Lean and tight, rhubarb and citrus on the nose, good length and depth of palate. 17.5 pts

Beaune – Clos des Féves – 1er Cru (red). Wonderfully complex and balanced, amalgam of fruit and secondary flavours, silky tannins. 18.5 pts

Savigny-lés-Beaune – La Dominode – 1er Cru (red). Bright red translucence, very expressive nose, fruit and savoury elements, elegant and balanced. 18.5 pts

GEORGE ROUMIER

Chambolle Musigny (red). Sulphurous initially, which blew off. A thoroughly well made wine – each element of fruit, tannin and acid playing a part, but not individually intrusive. 17 pts

Morey-Saint-Denis – Clos de la Bussiére – 1er Cru (red). Lifted nose of sweet strawberries and cherries. A leanness to the palate but fruit flavours not unripe. 17 pts

Bonnes-Mares – Grand Cru – (red). When one tastes wines like this one realizes why people just go crazy about red Burgundy. This was a near perfect expression of pinot noir – cherry fruit, silky tannins, austere but with a rustic edge. Controlled power. 18.5 pts

BONNEAU DU MARTRAY

Corton-Charlemagne – Grand Cru (white). Full, rich and powerful, with layers of complexity – palate variegated but integrated. Effects of battonage, MLF and oak evident, good acidity, and very persistent length. 18 pts

Corton – Grand Cru (red). Intense fruit concentration, with ripe tannins. Far too young – has a great future ahead. 18 pts

MAISON FAIVELEY

Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet – Grand Cru (white). A bigger yet balanced expression, stylish, subtle and long palate. High quality oak. 17.5 pts

Gevrey-Chambertin – Les Cazetiers – 1er cru (red). Serious nose gives way to a serious palate – with fruit and savoury flavours, silky mouthfeel, good balance. 17.5 pts

Mazis-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). After the initial sulphur has blown off, this is the proverbial peacock’s tail. Aromas keep building in the glass, flavours likewise on the palate. 18.5 pts

DROUHIN

Chablis – Grand Cru – les Clos. Citrus minerality, austere and lean. Acid levels high. Evidence of oak and malo (not atypical for Grand Cru Chablis) 17.75

Beaune – Clos des Mouches Blanc – 1er Cru (white). Depth to olour and flavour. Wet stone and lychee notes. Elegant mouthfeel. 17.5 pts

Grands Echézeaux – Grand Cru (red). Depth to aroma and palate, cherry and even soy. Again, far too young, (and in this case, a bit cold also – new bottle recently emerged from the cellar and opened ~12 deg C. Showed better when warmed.) 18 pts

DOMAINE DUJAC

Vosne-Romanée – Aux Malconsorts – 1er Cru (red). Hints of coffee on the nose (probably from oak). No lack of phenolic ripeness here – the particular mingling of fruit and tannins and acid suggest long aging potential. 18.5 pts

TRAPET

Latriciéres-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). Layers of complexity, luscious and classically expressive. 18.5 pts

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

** Chanson is not part of Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition but is an Institute sponsor

New Release Shiraz and Pinot Noir

21 February 2011

As many of you know, pinot noir is a difficult grape to make fine wine from. It came as a surprise then, to have several excellent wines in this short bracket. Interestingly, of the top three, one was from South Australia, one from Victoria and one from New Zealand. There were also several very strong shiraz based wines as well.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.3). Delicate and perfumed nose on what is a very pretty wine. At the moment, this wine is all about texture and structure, but the fruit opens up nicely with air. The palate is superb, with powerful fruit that retains an elegance lacking in some. Textured and very complex, this is very youthful but still enjoyable.

Capel Vale – Shiraz – Whispering Hill – 2008 (18). Pretty wine. There are floral notes and a lovely, peppery lift. This is very fine and textured, and the length is superb. Fruit and oak tannins are well judged, but the fruit needs time and air to really express itself. Chocolate fruit to close. An excellent wine.

Deviation Road – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Fragrant and firm to start, with cherry and bright red fruit. A quite delicious wine with a lovely savoury twist on the finish. A complex wine with excellent length and mouth-feel. Feminine and elegant, this will be excellent drinking over the next three years.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – 2009 – (17.8+). More structured and earthy than the Deviation Road, with forest floor aromas, cinnamon, clove and spice on the nose. Powerful palate, with plenty of structure and sappy/briary fruit. Complex, tight and a touch awkward on the finish right now, this should soften with time in the bottle.

Deviation Road – Shiraz – Reserve – 2008 (17.8). Plum, spice, cherry and oak all impart aromas that gel together well. The spicy palate is complemented by cedary oak. A well made wine that shows quality fruit. Only medium bodied, this should evolve over 5 – 10 years.

Palmer – Shiraz – 2008 (17.6). Cooler climate expression of shiraz fruit. Vibrant, raspberry fruit with licorice and a touch of tar on the nose. The palate has lovely, peppery fruit with some spicy notes coming from the fine grain oak. Silky and classy mouth-feel demonstrates quality fruit and winemaking. Not super long but a very good drink.

Alkoomi – Shiraz/Viognier – 2009 (17.5). Fragrant with Satsuma plum and mulberry. Silky, sweet fruit coats the tongue and there are licorice and tarry notes to add complexity. Long and dense, the finish has no rough edges. Excellent value.

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – 2009 (17.5). Rich, ripe and dense with a seductive nose. Dense, ripe fruit on the palate with sweet fruit that has a slightly candied/vanillin edge. Long and dense, this retains a degree of elegance.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2008 (17.1). Opens with a lifted nose. There is a degree of depth to the fruit on the palate. Whilst there are ripe fruit aromas, there is a degree of balance here. The middle palate lacks a bit of density but otherwise, this is a smart wine.

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – Omrah – 2009 (17). Cedar and spice suggest a fairly fresh wine that has seen some new oak. The palate is dominated by strawberry and cherry fruit. Not as complex as some, but good drinking. Represents value.

Juniper Crossing – Shiraz – 2008 (16.8). Dense and rich with perfumed notes coming through on the nose. The fresh and vibrant fruit is balanced and round. Plum and cedar dominate the palate. The finish is tending towards warm.

Greed Sheep – Shiraz – 2009 (16.8). Smells slightly damp and earthy. Restrained and taut, this has lovely, peppery fruit, but a slightly earthy finish. Good fruit, with soft, fine tannins, though just a touch simple.

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Riesling and Pinot New Release

5 July 2010

Reviewed

Richardson – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.8). Complex dark fruits including cherry and plum. Cedary oak adds complexity but does not dominate. Good fruit here. Concentrated and dense. The texture and length are highlights. Will evolve.

Angove – Riesling – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.7). From the Clare Valley. More alive than some here. Opens with citrus zest, grapefruit and lime juice. The palate is flooded with lovely limey fruit. The texture in the middle palate is good and the finish is balanced. Acid builds to add focus. A very good wine.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and perfumed, with red fruits, cherry and blackcurrant all combined with a touch of cedar in an attractive package. The palate has serious, layered fruit and the wine is well made. Texture and length are the highlights. Leave it for a few years if you can resist drinking it, and be rewarded. NB. I was on my own in recommending this.

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Closed. Fine acid dominates fruit right now. Some lemon and musk/spice on a palate that develops and builds. Germanic in style, with a touch of fruit and sugar sweetness.

Lamont’s – Riesling – 2009 (17). Restrained at the moment. Steely and fine on the palate, there is minerals and fine acid to carry the finish. Very long and develops. Clearly superior.

Wynns – Riesling – 2009 (16.8). Restrained and taught on the nose. There is almost a touch of spritz on the palate from the acid and dissolved CO2. Very tight and fine, the acid is beautifully balanced. This is very young and sure to age well, (and score higher points in the future).

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2009 (16.7). Not so overt on the nose, but a touch of lemon sherbert and perfume. Round, soft, balanced and with good acidity to close. A touch of sweetness makes it easy to drink.

MadFish – Pinot Noir – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This really opened up with air. Sweet cherry fruit combine with spice and a touch of perfume. Whilst the palate is long, this is far too young. (Received more support from the rest of the panel).

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2009 (16). Floral and fresh nose. Floral with lime juice running through the palate. A touch of caramel is a bit out of place.

Red Burgundy Master Class

14 April 2010

The last few months have seen our Italian correspondent, Brendan Jansen, back in Perth. To assist with his Master of Wine studies, Brendan has been running a series of tastings aimed at exploring the differences that are experienced across various regions. These have included White Burgundy/Chablis and The Rhone Valley. The last tasting in this series was the Red Wines of Burgundy.

Brendan arranged a cross section of wines from various villages throughout the Cote d’Or. The challenge was to try and identify what characters were synonymous with pinot noir from Burgundy and what characters were unique to specific villages within Burgundy.

An interesting observation was that most of the wines were recommended by Ross Duke. We came to the conclusion that if Ross recommends a Burgundy, then it is most likely to be good. The only caveat would be to choose the better vintages.

Tasted (In Order)

Domaine Du Meix-Foulot – Mercury 1er Cru – Clos du Chateau de Montaigu – 2006 (16.9). Somewhat meaty characters to start, in a solid frame-work. Some lovely cherry fruit leads on the palate, with earthy characters to follow. Not complex on the finish, but very more-ish and good drinking now.

Domaine Marquis D’Angerville – Volnay – 2005 (16.7). Denser colour, and more density to the fruit on the nose. Savoury notes with spice and red (strawberry) fruits on the palate. Souring finish adds interest. Again lacks fruit weight on the finish, but there is enough structure to improve for a few years. Quite linear but not as generous as the Mercury.

Domaine Machard De Gramont – Beune 1er Cru – Aucoucherias – 2005 (17). Cold. Lighter style and quite pretty. The palate builds intensity. Some pepper and spice on the palate. A pretty, even floral, wine that gets better with time. This really improved over the evening.

Albert Morot – Beaune – Cent Vignes 1er Cru – 2004 (17.2). More of the earthy/meaty characters on the nose, but really interesting and succulent. Fruit is more to the plum spectrum with spice. Complex, spice especially cinnamon. Plums and some cedary notes on the palate. Long and savoury finish, but with plenty of grip. Sweet plum fruit. This was delicious with dinner the next night.

Domaine Follin-Arbelet – Aloxe Corton 1er Cru – les Vercots – 2006 (17.4). Quite dumb to start. The palate is fresh and vibrant, silky yet with plenty of structure. The fruit and oak tannins are very fine and tight, but get powdery on the close. This needs quite a few years to open up.

Rapet Pere et Fils – Pernand Verglesses – 2005 (16.5). Fruit tending to the cherry spectrum, with a touch of menthol and medicinal aromas. These continue on the palate. Opens with time, but not my style. (Received stronger support from others.)

Domaine Digioia-Royer – Chambolle Musigny – 2005. (17.5). Earthy, complex nose with dark fruit. The palate is dense, and quite powerful, with good fruit weight. This wine is all about fruit, with minimal new oak influence. Chewy and long, an impressive village wine. Pretty and quite feminine. A mid weight wine.

Earl Domaine Castagnie – Gervrey Chambertin – 2004 (17.3). More developed than the Royer, perhaps reflecting the vintage. Plumy fruit with some cedary oak characters. There is some cooler fruit character on the nose, but this does not detract. Good line and very good length. Does evolve and build spice. Drink in the next few years. (If this has a touch of Volatile Acidity, then it adds complexity).

Domaine Bart – Marsannay – Les Echezois – 2005 (17.8). Balanced and complex nose. This is seductive and ripe. Silky and enticing palate with fruit in the cherry spectrum . Denser fruit than all so far, this is textured and rich. Surprising quality for a village wine, and will improve further.

Bruno Desaunay-Bissey – Vosne Romanee – Villes Vignes 2005. (16). A somewhat meaty wine that is plump and ripe, but perhaps a bit flat. An almost sea-water flavour on the finish. Opens and improves. Firm tannins.

J Cacheux – Vosne Romanee 1er Cru – Les Chalandins – 2006 (18.2). A pretty wine. Feminine and floral, but with spine. Wow, lovely wine with very floral fruit. There is rose water and gentle cinnamon as well as strawberry fruit characters. Very silky, but still with structure. Superior. Interesting to see a fresh sea-water character.

J Cacheux – Vosne Romanee 1er Cru – Les Chalandins – 2005 (18). More structured than the 2006. Similar fruit characters, (i.e. pretty fruit), but more structured and a touch of pepper. The tannins are palpable on the finish. Smart, but will need more time to start drinking well. More masculine, and will score higher in time.

Caves de Pommard – Clos Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2005 (17.5). More weighty, but with poise and balance. Warmer and with some oak influence that is obvious. Dense fruit that is really long and fine. This is a powerful wine but not as identifiably burgundian. Some unusual, almost cooked characters. I was the only one that did not rate this very highly.

Scorpo – Pinot Noir – 2005 (17.9). Has the same spectrum of characters as the burgundies, but everything is turbo charged. Meaty/earthy characters dominate the nose. The palate is a flood of ripe fruit in the cherry spectrum. This is really long and really dense. The ripeness and density of the fruit is reflected in the (slightly) higher alcohol. One for lovers of shiraz, but very good all the same. Tangy acid to close. Interestingly, this evolved into a more feminine wine with airing.

Carrick – Pinot Noir – 2006 (18). Much closer in style to the burgundies, but still with new world fruit characters. Very nice wine with cherries and gentle spice. This is delicate but long and fine. Good length.

Burgundy Comes to Australia

Direct imports by Lamont’s – Cottesloe

17 & 22 December 2009

Burgundy is the holy grail of wines from my perspective. The great wines from Burgundy (both red and white) are possibly the greatest wines on the planet. The problem is that most wines do not reach anywhere near that pinnacle, especially for pinot noir. The best new world pinots are lovely wines but they lack the ethereal qualities of great burgundies. Indeed, most red burgundies fall well short of the mark too.

The story is a little different for chardonnay. The greatest new world wines (e.g. Leeuwin Estate from Margaret River) are indeed great wines. They are different to those from Burgundy though. Not better or worse, just different. Is the quality of these new world chardonnays equal to the best white burgundies (e.g. Grand Cru wines such as La – Montrachet etc)? Perhaps not quite, but the gap is small. Do good whites from the Burgundy region offer a drinking experience that is worth pursuing? Definitely! The minerally characters abundant in these wines are ideally suited to food, and often will take some aging.

At this stage I should highlight that wines made from chardonnay from the Burgundy region come from two main regions. Chablis and Burgundy. Both are typically 100% chardonnay, but the style differs significantly. I will discuss this further in a future article.

So to the wines.

Lamont’s has sourced a number of wines from various producers throughout Burgundy and Chablis. Looking at the order form, the wines appear to be very well priced. They suggest that a combination of the higher Australian Dollar, decreased global demand post the Global Financial Crisis and the ability to bypass the middle-man through direct imports has resulted in significantly reduced prices.

Having said all this, the wines only represent good value if they are actually good. After tasting 18 of the wines (this was not a blind tasting, so points are a bit arbitrary) I am pleased to say that they are good to very good, and there is some excellent value on offer.

Importantly, this is an opportunity to drink/cellar a selection of wines that offer something different to anything being made in the new world.

Tasted

Chardonnay

Bernard Bonin – Meursault Charmes – Premier Cru – 2004 (18). (Burgundy). Open and rich nose with minerals and melon fruit characters The palate is round and rich, with caramel toasty oak. Good mouth feel that is viscous and textured. Drinking well now.

Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18.5). (Burgundy). Formerly known as Domaine Michelot. Closed and surprisingly tight given that it is 5 years old. The palate has plenty of minerals, spice, stone fruit and a touch of almond. There is also peachy fruit and a touch of apricot kernel. The palate is defined by fine acidity and high quality oak but remains lean and relatively austere. Will evolve wonderfully over time.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de La Ville – 2006 (17.9). (Burgundy). Whilst quite closed at the moment, this has citrus and tropical fruit notes. The palate is rich, ripe and textured with lovely mouth feel. Very fine oak is seamlessly integrated. Opens and builds power with air. Give it a few years to blossom.

Darviot Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots Dessus – Premier Cru – 2006 (18.5). (Burgundy). Closed, complex and creamy. The palate is closed, tight, seamless and very long. Stone fruit to the fore with great subtlety. This is fantastic! Needs several years to show its best.

Laurent Cognard – Montagny Les Bassets – Premier Cru – 2008 (17.5). (Burgundy). More obvious nose. Quite creamy, with more stone fruit and less minerals than the wines from chablis. There is also a touch of Marzipan/rose water. This has potential! The palate has lovely lemony acid, is creamy and has a relatively seamless palate. Some apricot to close.

Philippe Chavy – Borgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). (Burgundy). Cold and quite closed to start. Plenty of minerals and lemony acid with a touch of toastiness. Not complex, but would be good drinking with a risotto this summer.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Folatiers – Premier Cru – 2007 (18). (Burgundy). More complex and ripe. Interestingly, this has more colour than most here. The palate is defined by powerful fruit – this is big. Very good length and more structure. One to drink over the next year.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2007 (17.7). (Burgundy). More complex and obviously white burgundy. A touch of mineraly curry leaf. This is quite chewy and textured with a touch of honey and seamless oak. There is a steely finish on this fine wine.

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2007 (16.9). Classic minerals and flint on the nose with ripe peach and a touch of almond meal. The palate is bright and fresh. This is tasty, and has a lovely mouth watering saltiness on the close. Not greatly complex, but very enjoyable drinking. Good Value.

Sylvain Mosnier – Beauroy – Premier Cru – 2006 (17.4). (Chablis). More complex, with honey, lanolin, and stone fruit. The palate has apricot kernel and honey. There is some oak evident on the creamy finish. This has real density of fruit but is still quite closed. May get greater length with a year more in bottle.

Bernard Bonin – Meursault – Les Tillets – 2005 (NR). (Burgundy). Slight cork taint. Looks promising.

Pinot Noir

Anne & Herve Sigaut – Morey St Denis – Les Millandes – Premier Cru – 2007 (17.5/18). Wow, really perfumed with a touch of meatiness. This really chewy and dense showing fruit and tannin ripeness. The drying finish is very fine. Points for potential.

Aurelien Verdet – Haut Cote de Nuit – 2007 (17.3). Scented and perfumed. A fine and refined wine. More concentrated than the Clos des Faulques. Darker cherry fruit that has earthy undertones. White pepper and savoury notes. This is great value.

Darviot Perrin – Beaune Bellisands – Premier Cru – 2003 (18). Intriguing “French” pong reflects the extra bottle age on this wine. Deep smelling with cherry and red currant undertones. The palate is long, complex, savoury and dense. Subtle oak supports the cherry fruit. Very good drinking!

Jean-Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Clos des Faulques – 2007 (16.5). Ripe cherry with some complexity on the nose. The palate has cherry, strawberries and spice. Simple but a good drink.

Jean-Marc Millot – Clos Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Complex, deep and fragrant nose. Wow, the palate is powerful, deep, dense, very fine and long. Evolves with air, revealing leather, spice and cloves. Majestic wine.

N.B. To add context to the tasting, we opened a bottle of the Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2006 (18.5/18.7) to use as a bench mark. This is a wine of stunning quality and at under $100 a bottle is a real bargain.

Burgundy Masterclass – Hosted by Philip Rich

Reviewed 28 August 2011

By

Dr Brendan Jansen

Philip Rich is a specialist wine importer and highly knowledgeable wine columnist with the Australian Financial Review. So when news of this tasting masterclass reached me, I was keen to attend.

Philip is indeed a European, and Burgundian in particular, wine aficionado. In the tasting he presented three brackets of Burgundy (2 of white, and 1 of red, all from the 2009 vintage) and a bracket of Barolos from the 2007 vintage in Piedmont, Italy (an appropriate accompaniment to Burgundy, as he described Piedmont as the Burgundy of Italy).

Here is a list of the wines:

Bracket 1 (White)

  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Baudines – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Vergers – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Morgeots – 2009

Bracket 2 (White)

  • Henri Boillot – Bourgogne Blanc – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Meursault – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Meursault – Charmes – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Corton Charlemagne – 2009

Bracket 3 (Red)

  • Hudelot Noellat – Bourgogne – Rouge – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Chambolle Musigny – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Nuits St Georges – Murgers – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Clos de Vougeot – 2009

Bracket 4 (Barolo)

  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Arborina – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Castelletto – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Rocche dell’ Annunziata – DOCG – 2007

Without going into detailed tasting notes of each wine, I will leave you with my general impressions of the tasting, and highlight a couple of the wines which were particularly impressive, for quality and/or value for money.

Firstly, the rise in quality as we moved from Village to Premier Cru to Grand Cru was quite apparent, manifest especially by both greater palate persistence and intensity.

Secondly, the whites in particular were all in a linear, more angular style. I for one prefer my white Burgundy in this style – no excessive oaking or buttery malolactic and leesy characters. In fact the 2 Meursault wines, though with more sinew and body than the Chassagne Montrachets, were nowhere near the plump examples I have tasted before, and I may have found it difficult to pick them as Meursaults in a blind line-up. Though partly a feature of the 2009 vintage, I suspect Philip has sourced wines with a more slender and elegant expression of white Burgundy – for which I am personally grateful!

My favourite of the first bracket was the Baudines (18 pts), which had a lovely texture and mouthfeel to accompany its superb acid. In the second bracket, the Corton Charlemegne (18.5 pts), though still young and closed, spoke of richness and balance on the palate, guaranteeing it a long life ahead.

Of the Red Burgundies, the Hudelot Chambolle Musigny (17.25 pts) displayed more funky, feral and undergrowth characters than the other wines – which I usually enjoy, but in this case possibly indicated some premature aging – it just tasted older than it should. The Nuits St Georges Murgers (18.25 pts) was cleaner and “purer’ with tight tannic structure and backbone. The Clos Vougeot was very young, and its scents had to be coaxed from within the glass. Nonetheless the palate already shows amazing depth, length, and complexity (including cherry fruit, liquorice and clove) (18.75 pts)

The Barolos, bar the first bottle (which I thought had too much volatility to represent a non-faulty bottle), were exemplars of the tar and roses/violets and ripe tannins of the appellation. The fourth (Roche dell’Annunziata – 18.5 pts) was my favourite, and even had some Barbaresco-esque spicy complexity.

To end, a special mention of the Vilmart Champagne, described by Tom Stevenson MW as being the ‘greatest grower Champagne I know’, which was served at he beginning of the tasting. This was a superb, perfumed, elegant and complete NV Champagne, and set the tone for a great tasting! (18.5 pts)

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Editors Note

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Reviewed: 25 July 2011

A strong line up of chardonnay and pinot noir has resulted in a number of worthwhile wines. The highlight for me was the Yerring Station pinot, a wine that is full of poise. At $38 it is not cheap, but it is worth a try. (Dan Murphy have it online for $32).

The wines from Robert Oatley are also worth commenting on. Both displayed generosity to the quality fruit and skilled winemaking. These are wines that can be consumed in the short term with pleasure. At around $25, they represent value.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18). Forward, floral fruit with a hint of citrus and melon. This is a tighter style compared to the Oatley. It is long and refined, with a drying finish. Quality fruit and oak, with serious length. Avoid drinking now as this needs 3 – 5 years to show its best.

Robert Oatley – Chardonnay – Craigmoor AC1 Vineyard – 2009 (17.8). Lovely lemony fruit with subtle barrel ferment and lees effects. Creamy and seductive, the palate matches the nose, with flint and minerals to the fore on the (very long) finish. The charry oak is a touch dominant, but should settle.

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2010 (17.5). Very creamy, with well integrated winemaking inputs. Opens with peach and pineapple fruit, with a touch of mineral and curry leaf to add interest. The quality fruit has real length of flavour. Needs time to show its best. (Another really smart wine from this producer).

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – Fifth Leg – Crisp – 2010 (16.8). Floral nose with tropical fruits. Zesty and racy palate that hints at its chardonnay origins, but in a fresh and vibrant package. An excellent alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2010 (18). More angular and precise nose. Beautifully weighted fruit that is more to do with sappy/savoury notes than bright fruit. The palate has excellent structure and mouth-feel, while the tannins are fine. Needs a few years to hit its straps, as this blossomed after sitting on the tasting bench for a couple of days. A very smart wine.

Robert Oatley – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (17.6). Succulent, sweet and juicy fruit. This is at the ripe end of cherry, hinting at plum. There is also some tar, combined with earthy notes. The palate has more of the same in a soft and approachable style. Silky tannins and a touch of oak make for good early drinking. Good buying if you see it around $25.

Chard Farm – Pinot Noir – River Run – 2008 (17.5). Cherry fruit that is tight and focused. A complex wine. The fruit on the palate has excellent depth and balance. There is a slight astringency running through the palate and the tannins are fine and the oak supple. This is a powerful wine that has yet to reveal itself fully. Interestingly, this was preferred to its more expensive siblings in this tasting.

New Release Imports

Reviewed: 30 January 2013

An interesting point came up for discussion during the tasting came when one panellist berated me for not giving the white Burgundies higher points. He pointed out that the wines had only recently landed and will undoubtedly be better in a month or two’s time when they have settled.

The problem with this view is that I can only assess what is in my glass and compare that to my personal frame of reference. Perhaps my points are a little low, but this is better than having them too high.

Another point was made in regards to the points that are given to Australian wines. It was suggested that these wines were significantly better than many Australian wines and therefore should get higher points. I would counter with the view that the wines are different. A $30 Australian chardonnay scoring 17.5pts is, in my mind at least, the equal of a Burgundy scoring 17.5pts. That the wines are stylistically different does not diminish my enjoyment for both.

Indeed, I would suggest that for the average consumer who does not try many French wines, the Australian wine will be more enjoyable. We are naturally influenced by our past experiences and what we are familiar with.

This is the beauty of wine; it can be all things to all people!

A fascinating tasting of high quality wines.

White Burgundy

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.8). Restrained and tight, this is a lovely wine with really potential. There are hints of pineapple, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose in quite a modern style. Very long, slightly viscous, yet not cloying, with a lovely minerality to the fruit on the palate. The acid and oak are well judged and the oak is high quality.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault-Charmes – 2010 (17.8). Minerals and curry leaf over peach, nectarine, cashew nut and citrus fruit characters. The palate matches the nose perfectly, with intense, yet refined fruit matched to high quality oak. Seamless and creamy, the finish is a treat.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Meursault – La Barre – 2010 (17.7). Restrained on the nose compared to the Puligny. This is an elegant wine of some charm. The fruit is remarkably long and is carried by grapefruit like acidity. The length here is outstanding as is the mouth-feel and texture. The fruit builds and evolves and there are minerals and nutty fruit on the finish. A few years would only help this wine.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Puligny Montrachet – Les Chalumeaux – 2010 (17.5+). Lean and angular, this is a wine for another day. It really needs time to fill out and expand on both the nose and the palate. Perhaps from a cooler year, the structure and acidity are excellent. In terms of descriptors, the wine shows lemony fruit and acid, stonefruit, grapefruit, melon and mealy complexity.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.5+). Quite forward fruit on the nose combined with strong minerality, curry leaf and almond meal. The palate is very rich and round, showing more of the mineral characters, lemon zest, almond meal and complex, struck match and flint highlights. Not for the faint hearted, this is a rich white Burgundy.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault – Genevrieres – 2010 (17.5) Creamy fruit on the nose, with minerals and spice. Somewhat developed and honeyed, but the acid is still fresh and keeps the palate alive. Long and succulent, this is a good wine that opens and evolves. There is a touch of vanillin oak to close. A Subtle, yet abundant wine with excellent length.

Assorted Red Wines

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey-Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2010 (17.8+). More density here. Powerful, spicy fruit with hints of licorice, clove and even star anise. Long and savoury, this is a step up in terms of fruit density and quality. Textured, long and almost chewy, this is a quality wine. Needs time.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose showing ripe, fragrant fruit. The palate is more about structure and spice than ripe fruit. There is excellent length and depth to the quality fruit and the texture really fleshes out with air. An excellent Fixin from a producer to watch out for.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – 1er Cru – Givry – Clos Saint Pierre 2009 (17.3). Initially tight and restrained, this opens to show perfumed fruit on the nose and palate, with spice, cherry and plum over cedar. The fruit is not overly dense, but it is ripe and the wine is well made.

Domaine Des Combiers – Gamay – Fleurie – La Cadole – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Fragrant and lively fruit on the nose, with red berries and gentle spice. The palate is fresh, light, succulent and juicy. There are savoury hints to close on an easy drinking and quite delicious red wine. This may have seen some carbonic maceration to add more life to the fruit.

Domaine La Cabotte – Cotes du Rhone – 2008 (17). Clean and fresh, with dense dark fruits. Think licorice, spice, cinnamon and cherry. The palate is textured and spicy , with little oak influence, but really deap tasting fruit. Smart wine.