Category Archives: Semillon

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – September 2017

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – September 2017

Barry Weinman: 10th September 2017

Following on from last week’s review of Cabernet based wines, I continued with the Bordeaux theme and looked at Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. This is a style made famous by the white wines of Bordeaux (both dry and sweet versions).

In New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc is primarily fermented in stainless steel and released shortly after vintage. in Bordeaux however, the wines are often fermented and aged in oak barrels, with lees stirring to add depth. This results in a complex, textured wine released with a few years of bottle age enabling it to age well in the short to medium-term.

In Margaret River, they have made this style their own, producing wines with varying degrees of barrel and lees influences. In wines like the Fraser Gallop, as little as 5% of a blend treated this way can add lovely texture and depth to a wine. Wines such as the Wallcliffe from Cape Mentelle, however, have significantly more work, resulting in a complex, serious wine that demands attention.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2014 (18.2/20). Initially shows grassy fruit notes, with lemon and hints of pineapple, gooseberry and lychee. The barrel ferment characters add depth to the long palate. With a little air though, the worked characters really express, with smoky, struck match components and minerality developing on both the nose and palate. A complex, serious wine that will be best with food.

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – DJL – 2016 (18/20 – $24). A complex savoury wine, where the oak and lees characters make an impact, but do not overwhelm the vibrant fruit. A serious wine that would be great with poached chicken breast, but would also be very enjoyable on its own. Trophy for Best White Blend – Sydney Royal Wine Show 2017.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2014 (17.9/20). Cooler fruit characters, with grassy Semillon paired to herbaceous notes from the Sauvignon Blanc. Taut and refreshing, the oak adds depth. The bottle age has softened the fruit and added complexity. Good drinking.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.5/20). Fresh and floral with just enough depth to make the wine interesting. The textural palate is fine and elegant, with the supple fruit complemented by subtle winemaker’s inputs (part of the blend seeing barrel ferment and lees work). An accessible wine that will be appreciated by many.

Lamont’s – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.5/20 – $25). I like this. Quality fruit is compact and complex, with subtle winemaker’s inputs adding depth but not overt flavours. Long, fresh finish with drive. Drink up.

 

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 6th February 2016

When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, either alone, or in combination with Semillon, I prefer the styles that are loosely modeled on the white wines from Bordeaux.

Typically a portion of the blend is fermented in barrel and then left on lees to gain texture and complexity. This may only be 5% – 20% of the total blend, but it is enough to add depth and texture to the final wine.

The 2013 Wallcliffe by Cape Mentelle is an excellent example, and worth seeking out.

Semillon is rarely made on its own in Margaret River. After trying the 2015 Moss Wood, it is clear that it is capable of making fine wine, albeit in a different style to those made in the Hunter Valley.

The commercial reality is that blends are easier to sell than straight Semillon. Vasse Felix, for example have stopped production of their excellent example.

ReviewedCM_Wallcliffe_2012

Cape Mentelle– Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2013 (17.8). Pineapple and tropical notes on the nose over complex barrel ferment/lees characters that suit the fruit perfectly. The flavours match the nose precisely, with bright acid and textural components carrying the finish. Delicately handled. (RRP $45).

Moss Wood – Semillon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (17.5). Lovely nose with a touch of lantana and grassy fruit. Bright palate with lemon myrtle and crunchy apple. The long, savory finish is complemented by complex barrel-ferment characters. I like this style and it works brilliantly with food. (RRP $38).IMG_0867

Chateau Martinon – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Entre-Deux-Mers – 2014 (17.2). Lemon Brulee and home made lemonade on the nose. Really refreshing and interesting, with honeysuckle and gentle spice. Long, supple, mouth-filling and delicious.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – Western Australia – 2014 (17.2). Smart wine. There is degree of density to the lemony fruit and a touch of viscosity. Long, chewy, textured and mouth-filling. (RRP $31).

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Cooler region fruit, with grassy/herbaceous notes. Passionfruit and gooseberry on an approachable palate with decent texture. Hints of barrel fermentation, with refined acidity to close. A smart wine.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Textbook example. Refreshing and bright, with just enough texture to make it really enjoyable. (RRP $25).

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – October 2014

Reviewed: October 23

There has been an evolution in the style of (Western) Australian blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon over the last few years. The overt fruit characters have become a little muted, whilst a proportion of barrel fermentation and lees stirring has become an increasingly common occurrence.

This is not to say that oak characters have become an obvious part of the style. In most cases, it is there only to add depth and complexity. In reality, the proportion of wine in a blend that sees oak is quite small. The inclusion of 5% to 20% of barrel fermented wine to the final blend is often enough to have a subtle, yet meaningful impact.

In this tasting, this was exemplified by the wine from Flametree.

Reviewed

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013 (17.7). A very impressive wine that balances high-quality ripe fruit with subtle, though complex winemaking. The palate is long and savoury, with the oak and lees characters adding texture rather than overt flavour. (RRP $25).

Sandalford – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Estate Reserve – 2013 (17.5). I like this wine for the balance of fruit and structure. Grassy and herbaceous, with a degree of depth, this has excellent length and mouth-feel. Quite delicious really. Slightly richer, with a touch of barrel ferment adding complexity.

Madfish – Premium White – 2013 (17). Richer, more viscous, with depth to the fruit. Not overt, but a complex, though neutral wine that is better suited to food. Perhaps a small component of barrel ferment/lees fruit to add texture. Sensible residual sugar adds flesh to the mid palate. (RRP $18).

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Next Of Kin – 2014 (17). Grassy and herbaceous fruit on the nose. Refreshing and light palate, but with decent length and persistence. A lovely summer afternoon wine.

De Bortoli – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Sacred Hill – 2013 (16). Light and fresh, with a degree of viscosity and reasonable length on the finish. Whilst not a great wine, the $7 price tag makes this an option for the budget conscious. (RRP $7).

New Release Shiraz – August 2014

7th August 2014

Sue Hodder and the team at Wynns have been in great form of late when it comes to cooler region Shiraz. From the White Label Shiraz (Reviewed elsewhere and an absolute bargain) through to the special release wines, the 2012 vintage has proved to be outstanding.

As good as the V&A lane is, I have opted to put both the white label and black label wines into my cellar from this stellar vintage.

(The Cabernets are also in top form: Watch out for reviews in the coming month).

Reviewed

Wynns – Shiraz – V&A Lane – 2012 (18 – 18.5+). Chewy, dense and textured, the fruit is a little subdued, but not overwhelmed. Opens to show ripe, high quality fruit, with a core of licorce and spice. The tannins are fine though prodigious, and the length/persistence admirable. A complex, serious wine that really builds in the glass. Cellaring recommended.

Singlefile – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Clement V – 2013 (17.8). A lovely wine that balances ripe red fruits with subtle oak and fine tannins. This has cherry/berry notes with licorice, spice and even a touch of fresh herbs. On the palate, the fruit really sings, unencumbered by overt oak and there are hints of chocolate to close. An unusual blend for the Great Southern, but one that works. (RRP $30).

Wynns – Shiraz – Black Label – 2012 (18). The proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Silky and refined, thought there is undoubted power sitting behind the fruit. The silky texture on the finish belies the age-ability of this wine. A lovely, mid-weight wine.

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2012 (17.8). Dense and ripe, yet relatively soft and approachable. Hints of menthol and spice over bright fruit characters. The palate is dense, with decent power, though the ripe fruit is accessible and delicious. Long, with fine tannins, this is a bright and clean Barossa Shiraz that is immediately enjoyable, yet capable of short to mid-term cellaring. (RRP $19).

Lamont’s – Shiraz/Viognier – 2012 – $28 (17.6). Quite a contrast to some here, in that there is obvious ripeness to the fruit. This palate is plush and textured, with the acid and tannins adding life on the finish and a touch of white pepper to close. This is not overly complex, but is a delicious fruit-driven wine. From Donnybrook.

Stormflower  – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2010 (17.5). Menthol and mint with a touch of eucalyptus oil on the nose. The palate has ripe fruit that floods the mouth. This is a decent wine, with the minty fruit carrying right through the palate. There is excellent length and persistent, with very good palate transition. Fine tannins and subtle oak frames the fruit well.

 

Aromatic Whites – Current Release – May 2014

Reviewed: May 18th 2014

There was an eclectic collection of wines at this tasting which presented some significant challenges. Not knowing the variety, or even the style avoided any preconceptions, but it also meant that there were some style clashes. A bone-dry riesling is always going to be difficult to taste after an SSB that has a degree of residual sugar.

That said, the two rieslings mentioned are well worth a look.

Reviewed

Willoughby Park – Riesling – Ironrock – 2013 (18). Restrained and taut, with steely minerality. This continues on the palate, with lovely lime juice and superb acidity that carries the finish. Slightly dumb on the mid palate, but with air this became wonderfully fragrant. Ideally this needs a few years to flesh out, but is a superb wine.

Zarephath – Riesling – 2013 (17.5 – 18). Very pale colour. Fresh and floral, with lime and lemon juice notes. The palate has fresh acidity, yet is soft, supple and quite delicious. A sublime wine with excellent length and a near seamless finish.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2013 ( 17.5). Initially quite neutral on the nose. The palate has barrel ferment and lees characters over quality fruit. Think pineapple and nectarine. Quite a serious wine that has been well handled. The finish is almost chewy and textured, but the lemony fruit and crisp acidity makes for an excellent wine.

Stella Bella – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Skuttlebutt – 2013 (17). A very drinkable wine here. This is characterised by lovely mouth-feel and texture. Excellent length with focused acidity to balance the fruit on the drying finish. An excellent wine with, or without food.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Barking Owl – 2013 (17). I like the balance here. Floral fruit and citrus blossom is set against a background of minerals and flinty acidity. Good length, the touch of phenolic grip adds to the mouth-feel and finish.

Yilgarnia – Semillon – 2013 (17). Quite a smart wine that has fresh, vibrant fruit set against complex minerality. There is depth and presence here. This is not a quaffing wine. The complex array of flavours include lemon-like fruit and just a hint of minerals.

Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

3 December 2010

In the lead up to Christmas, we thought it would be good to look at a few sauvignon blancs. On a warm afternoon, these wines make for excellent drinking. The surprise for me was the quality of the Adelaide Hills wines. They possessed a drinkability that was lacking in some.

For sheer power, the Paretai by Matua Valley is a stand-out. I would encourage you to try a bottle and let me know what you think. For me though, the Geoff Weaver and the Shaw and Smith are the picks for drinking on a warm day.

Reviewed

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc – Paretai – 2010 (18). Quite seductive nose. This is really forward and powerful with all the tropical fruit characters typical of the style, combined with quality winemaking inputs. There is viscosity and length to the palate, and a silky mouth-feel completes an altogether impressive wine. Incredibly long and seamless finish. A wine to sip, not drink.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Fresh and clean, with tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is pure passionfruit, with lime juice and a touch of pineapple to close. Impressively long and zesty finish.

Mount Avoca – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2009 – (17.5+). Lemony, viscous, long and taught. An impressive wine with character. This has had well handled winemaker’s inputs. Not in the mainstream, but very impressive with food.

Shaw and Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.5). Lanolin and lemon on the nose. Fresh and zesty palate with lime acidity on the finish. This gets marks for being a really good drink. Bring on summer!

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.4). Some tropical fruit on the nose with passionfruit and a touch of lantana. The palate is long, fresh and slightly viscous. Good mouth-feel and texture. An excellent example of Margaret River sauvignon blanc.

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.3). Unusual nose. Grassy and a touch of fresh herbs. Quite powerful and viscous fruit on the palate. Long and dense, this is an interesting wine.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Very grassy on the nose. The grassy notes continue on the palate with herbaceous fruit carried by lemony acid. Nicely textured mouth-feel. From Margaret River.

Yarrabank – Vintage – 2006 (16.8). Quite a complex nose, with autolysis notes on a fresh nose. The palate is firm but very long. The first impression is that the finish will be a touch hard; however the weight of fruit on the palate carries the wine to a very long conclusion. This is not subtle, but should develop well over the next 5 years.

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (16.5). Subtle grass and herbaceous fruit characters on the nose. The palate is fresh and uncomplicated. Good drinking.

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc (sparkling) – NV (16.3). Smells like sauvignon blanc, tastes like sauvignon blanc, must be sauvignon blanc. Light and refreshing with enough fruit weight and complexity to carry the finish. Why? Why not!

Plantaganet – Sauvignon Blanc – Omrah – 2009 (16). Lifted grassy nose that works. Lemony fruit on the palate. Powerful, long, textured and zesty.

Lovedale and OP & OH

The Wine And Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed: 10 October 2011

Hunter semillon is very Sydney. People (and wine critics/judges) in NSW love the stuff. Outside of the state though, the reception is a little mixed. I think the reason for this is the lack of exposure. With the plethora of white wines coming from regions like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough, Hunter semillon gets a little lost in the crowd.

It was with this in mind that I arranged this tasting. I wanted to get to know a little more about the style and what better way to do it than with a vertical tasting of Lovedale. This is an iconic wine with a show record that every other white wine in the country would aspire to.

The grape resources available to McWilliams are fantastic. Whilst the Lovedale is their top white and the Maurice O’Shea their top red, they also produce the OP & OH shiraz. This is a truly amazing Old Vines shiraz at a bargain price.

The Old Paddock (OP) vineyard dates back to the 1920’s and the Old Hill (OH) vineyard the 1880’s. That’s right, 90 and 120 year old vines! This counts for nothing if the wine is not made well though. The vertical tasting of OP & OH showed a gradual evolution in style. The latest wines are modern, though with hints of their Hunter origin showing through.

I would like to thank Greg West from McWilliams for kindly arranging the wines for this tasting.

As the tasting was not blind, my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1998 (18.5). Lanolin, lovely lemon curd and a developed richness. The palate is taut with plenty of lemony acid. Amazing length driven by fine acidity. A refined and elegant wine that, while aged, has a degree of freshness.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1999 (18). Actually darker than the 98. Richer and more complex on the nose. The palate is fantastic, with honey and lemon. Falls away a touch before building to a very long finish. Balanced. Classic Hunter semillon with a lovely mouth-feel.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2001 (18.1). More zest to the citrus nose here. Oily, but again with purity of fruit. The length is again a standout. This is still a baby and will probably open up with another year or two in bottle.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2003 (18.3). Again, richer with more body than the last. Incredibly intense, yet beautifully balanced. Develops some toasty/caramel notes on the finish. The acid here is actually softer than in some of the earlier wines, but super fruit carries the finish.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is spectacular, with so much going on. Lemon zest, lime, vanilla and lemon all vie for attention. The palate is juicy, textured and very long. An amazing wine of real structure and poise. A star and perhaps more powerful than the rest.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2011 (18.5). Restrained and taut. Lemon zest and lime juice to the fore. This is reserved, but totally seamless. Has amazing presence in the mouth for what is a fairly neutral wine at the moment. The acidity and length define this wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 1996 (17.5). Wow, lovely nose. Developed, rich fruit. Think plum, mulberry, leather and spice. Very complex and intriguing. The palate is drying out a touch with dried herbs and spice and there is plummy fruit to close, with a touch of dark chocolate. Smelly but lovely. An old fashioned wine and the finish is not as long as some here.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2002 (18.2). Much fresher, with cherry and plum fruit notes. Wow, the fruit on the palate is fantastic. Cherry, but with tar and almost floral flavours. Very long and dense, this is just a baby. Fruit, dark cherries and chocolate carry the finish. A satisfying wine that has some earthy notes starting to show.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2005 (17.8). Closed. This is super fine and refined. Plum, mulberry, raspberry, cherry and tar all on display. Acidity freshens the finish and there is leathery fruit to close.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2006 (18). Fresh fruit here, but quite closed. Super long and refined, it is easy to dismiss this wine as it lacks the weight of the earlier wines. That would be a shame, as the length and persistence are spot on. Builds intensity in the mouth, with white pepper to close. A more feminine wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Amazing colour, nose and palate. This has it all. Super fruit and winemaking. The length of flavour is superb. The finish fans out and evolves. An evolution in style.

Mount Pleasant Shiraz OP & OH – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Almost purple in colour. A very tight/closed nose, but the palate is spectacular. Sweet, high quality fruit, and skilled winemaking combine to make superb wine. Very youthful and closed, this will be excellent. Delicate and perfumed, yet there is incredible intensity and complexity. Superb wine!

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon & Riesling

New Release

Reviewed: 22 June 2012

A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.

Reviewed – Dry

The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.

Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.

Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.

Reviewed – Sweet

Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.

Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).

Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.

Chateau Coutet

Reviewed: 24th April 2012

I had the pleasure of sitting down to dinner with Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet whilst tasting through a number of vintages back to 1986. It was fantastic to see how the wines evolved over time and also how the different vintage conditions influences the style of a particular wine.

The blend of grapes going into Coutet remains constant; Semillon – 75%, Sauvignon Blanc – 23% and Muscadet 2%. Apparently, the proportion of sauvignon blanc is higher than that used by most other Sauternes producers. The purpose is to make the wine crisp/sharp, even nervy. An energetic Sauternes then? Aline tells the story that the name Coutet means knife, hence they feel obliged to make a sharp wine 🙂

One point that was raised on the night was the amount of bottle to bottle variation with some vintages. Again, the less than perfect cork can be held accountable. We did not try any bad bottles, it is just that with the older wines (’89 in particular), there were differing degrees of development.

Without doubt, the highlight of the evening was tasting the two bottles of Cuvee Madame. Only released in exceptional years and only 100 dozen made in a particular vintage. I believe that there has only been 14 vintages released to date, with the 1997 being the latest. I need to express my gratitude to Bob Winterbottom for supplying both of these wines!

Finally, the 2010 Bordeaux indent has just began, so contact your friendly retailer if you would like to order the latest Coutet.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as a comparison between vintages rather than in absolute terms. That said, the best wines were outstanding.

Reviewed

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2007 (18). Obvious viscosity and sweetness, though the palate is very fine and taut, courtesy of the lovely acidity. The length is superb with honey, grapefruit and apricot fruit characters. Subtle and delicate, this will build in power and intensity with age.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2006 (17.7). Very delicate and fine, with lovely, floral fruit. There is less of the intense apricot/honey characters here, reflecting vintage conditions. Very closed at this stage, the finish is fresh, fine and seamless. An excellent aperitif.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2005 (17.8). Deeper hue than the 2006. More obvious botrytis characters on the nose, with plenty of apricot and orange marmalade. The palate is more intense, with some of the minerals that the house is (apparently) known for. Powerful and structured, with excellent length, the sweetness is more obvious.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2004 (17.5 – 18). Another intense wine that has both bower and balance. More nutty, with more minerality than 2005. Very intense palate with good length. Did not have the carry and depth of the greatest wines, but the wine really developed character with time in the glass. One to watch.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1997 (NR).

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1989 (18.8). There was some bottle variation on the night, though none of the bottles were bad. Fantastic nose showing orange marmalade, apricot, floral notes, minerals and nutty fruit. One taster suggested a hint of Madeira. The palate was vibrant, and impressively fresh for a wine of such age. There was a degree of development, but the powerful fruit and superb acidity give the wine great length and penetration.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1988 (18+). Lighter and more feminine than the ’89, this is reserved and oh so subtle. Balanced, long, fine and restrained, with citrus highlights, this is remarkably youthful. A complete wine in a lighter style that will live for many years.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1989 (19). Remarkably fresh, concentrated and powerful, with marmalade and apricot aromas. The palate is incredible. Amazing intensity, but at the same time, elegant and restrained. Perfectly judged sweetness combined with mouth-watering acidity and a touch of viscosity to make this an incredible wine.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1986 (18.9). Youthful! This is another incredible wine that has lovely spiced fruit and perfume. The palate is very exciting. It is fine, refined, very long and starting to develop. This is a lighter style than the 1989, but totally delicious all the same.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

Reviewed: 25th March 2012

The classic saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind when we were unmasking the wines at the end of this tasting. The opposite is perhaps true with wine. Do judge a wine by its packaging.

Wine bottles come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to premium wines, understandable, wineries put these in to packaging that stands out. Taller, wider and heavier bottles are the order of the day, combined with an upmarket label and, perhaps, a Stelvin Lux closure.

When it comes to (Western) Australian SSB/SBS, a bigger package is also associated with more intervention in the winery. These so-called “Winemakers Inputs” include:

  • Barrel Fermentation (Usually part of the blend would be fermented in oak barrels)
  • Lees Stirring (To increase complexity and texture in the mouth)
  • Extended Skins Contact (Some of the wine might be left in contact with the skins after crushing for a short time to increase textural components of the wine).

Depending on the amount of each, the wines are transformed from a lighter, fresh and floral style, to a more complex and serious wine that demands attention. These are often wines for sipping rather than drinking, and all will look even better with food. These wines will often age well for a few years as the wine integrates and the fruit becomes more expressive.

This style is typical of white Bordeaux where the wines can age for a decade or more.

If you have not tried one before, consider it as an alternative to chardonnay one night and make up your own mind on the style.

Reviewed

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – B79 – 2011 (18). The nose is a cross between white Bordeaux and fine Chablis. Aromas of minerals, fruit and oak combine to make this a very fine wine. The palate has lovely lemony fruit and a long finish. The textural components from the winemaker’s inputs are spot on for this style of wine. Again, the new packaging is excellent.

Singlefile Estate – Fume Blanc – 2011 (17.8+). Zesty, this is just a bit too young at the moment. The nose shows barrel ferment and lees, but there is still fresh fruit to the fore. There is a lovely creamy finish and the length is spot on. This will be even better in a year or two when the fruit opens up and balances out the textural components and acidity.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2010 (17.5). Has more in common with high quality chardonnay than it does to a Margaret River SSB. Oak and spice dominate the nose and the finish. A quality wine that will go well with food.

Singlefile Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.4). A more serious style of wine than many here. This is showing green, herbaceous characters (green pee and asparagus) but I wonder if there is a touch of barrel ferment as well. Lively palate that is dry enough to keep the finish fresh and vibrant. Refreshing, intense and balanced.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Taut and fine, this is a quality wine. Everything is in place and there are no rough edges. If anything, it needs a year or two to allow the fruit to express itself, but a fine wine all the same. Smart new packaging.

Smith and Hooper – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.1). Quite a complex aroma that has hints of lees and barrel fermentation. Lean and tight now, the quality of this wine is underlined by the textural component of the palate. Long and balanced, it needs a couple of years to show its best. From Wrattonbully and definitely worth a look.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Opens, with grass and lantana aromas. Smart wine that, whilst delicate, has real charm and appeal. Long and fine, the finish is all class. A very subtle wine to pair with seafood dishes.

Hay Shed Hill – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). Floral sweetness to the nose, with attractive tropical fruit highlights. The palate is zesty, vibrant and long, with grassy, gooseberry flavours predominating. Good length and a degree of (phenolic) viscosity that makes this an interesting drink.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). A very rich wine that has a degree of ripeness in evidence. The fruit is quite powerful, and the mouth-feel on the bigger side. Good acidity cuts through the finish, balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Will appeal to the in-laws.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2011 (16.6). Lovely nose that hints of green pear. In some ways, this reminds me of an Alsatian wine, with a mineral core to the fruit. Lemony fruit and acid dominate the palate and give this wine drive. I like it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2011 (16.5). Sherbet and tropical fruit over very fresh acidity and excellent length. Perhaps a touch reductive now, this needs a few years to settle and really shine. Bargain.

Grace Farm – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.4). A smart wine here, with forward citrus fruit balanced by juicy acidity on the finish. Not complex but quite long.

Oxford Landing Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16). Great value and smart new look.

Houghton – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (15.9). Another excellent value wine.