Tag Archives: Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release Cabernet and Riesling

Reviewed – 6 September 2011

One thing that really struck me with this tasting was how tight cabernet sauvignon can be. A tasting of 15 shiraz would deliver a number of aromatic or savoury wines with instant appeal. With this tasting however, I found myself going back to the wines several times over 3 days watching their development. With each passing day, my enjoyment of the wines increased.

With time in the bottle, the fruit became much more accessible and the tannins softer. No doubt, these will cellar well.

The rieslings reviewed were much more approachable, though the best will age for 15 years.

Reviewed

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2010 (18). The nose is floral, with fresh, lemony fruit. There is a touch of pear skin too. Fresh, zingy acid, with steely lime fruit running through the palate. Impressive length and line. A lovely wine that ticks all the boxes. Good now, but better in ten years.

Talisman – Riesling – 2011 (17.2). Gentle floral fruit on the nose. This is very approachable now, but with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Good length and intensity, and the fruit really builds in the mouth. The best drinking in this group now, though this will still age well in the medium term.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – 2011 (17). Musk, lime juice and lavender on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, though there is a degree of restraint courtesy of the fresh acid. An enjoyable wine that builds intensity.

d’Arenberg – Riesling – The Stump Jump – 2009 (16.7). Unusually tropical in its outlook, with plenty of passionfruit and citrus. Rounded and approachable, this wine represents very good value.

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Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2008 (18.3). Intense fruit on the nose! Blackcurrant, menthol and a touch of perfume. Perhaps a touch of violets even. Fantastic fruit on the palate. This is virtually seamless and very intense. The quality fruit has absorbed the fine grained oak with ease. The finish is tight courtesy of the oak and silky tannins, so give it air or ten years in the cellar. This is in the cooler spectrum, so it is not everyone’s cup of tea. I loved it!

Ferngrove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – The Stirlings – 2008 (18.2). More fruit intensity here. Lovely palate with cedar, spice and fresh fennel. Long and very intense, this has excellent structure and mouth-feel. Really builds in the mouth, with the shiraz adding some licorice components to the finish. This is an excellent wine that will benefit from at least ten years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nest Egg – 2009 (18). Classically cabernet. Cooler region characters on display, with subtle eucalypt, herb and menthol. Mouth-filling, dense and quite rich, this is an easy wine to like. The length is excellent and the dense, ripe fruit floods the middle palate. Fine oak adds structure. Took days to open up and will last for many years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (18). An angular wine that lacks generosity at first. Mint, mortien, capsicum and tomato leaf on the nose, Very intense, powerful and textured. This really blossomed over a few days. Great wine, just give it time.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2009 (17.6). Seductive. Ripe and succulent fruit that is varietally correct, but more generous than some on display here. Some of the minty notes have been replaced by ripe, almost plumy, fruit. Good length and intensity, in a more approachable style. Enjoyable now or in 8 years. A pretty wine with plenty of appeal.

Chapel Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17+). Surprisingly cool region fruit notes on the nose, with capsicum and a touch of insecticide. Sour cherry and Satsuma plum flood the palate. Intense and focused, this is a wine of some power and structure. Plum and menthol to close. Not mainstream, but with significant charm.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17). Taut, fine, dense and reserved. This has dense, quality fruit and slick winemaking. It needs 5 years to start to show its best. A souring finish makes this a great choice with food if you are going to drink it now.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (16.8). More straightforward red fruits on the nose. The palate is forward and ripe, though there is remarkable balance and structure for a wine of this price. Delivers plenty of joy.

d’Arenberg – Cabernet Sauvignon – The High Trellis – 2009 (16.7). Enticing nose that is both restrained, yet displaying lovely ripe plumy fruit. The palate is fruit driven, with some fruit weight. Not the longest, but very approachable. From a warmer region, this has more ripe fruit and less mint/herbal notes as compared to the Western Australian wines here.

The Perth Hyatt Cup 2011

23 August 2011

By

Dr Brendan Jansen

As I walked into the foyer of the Hyatt Hotel and asked for the location of the 2nd annual Perth Hyatt Cup, I felt a little as though I was asking about a horseracing event. The equine comparison turned out to be in some ways apt, as I shall return to later.

The Hyatt Cup began last year, a competition to showcase the best of Western Australia’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet dominant Bordeaux blends. Punters (attendees) taste the wines selected blind, and then rate them, with wines selected from either the Margaret River or Great Southern regions. Points are collated and the results made known at the end of each bracket. This year, the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages were featured. For my general thoughts about the greatness of WA (and Margaret River in particular) Cabernet, please refer to http://wineup.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/margaret-river-and-its-affinity-with-cabernet-sauvignon/

On the expert panel providing commentary were esteemed WA winemakers and industry pioneers Dr Bill Pannell (founder of Moss Wood, now of Picardy), Keith Mugford (Moss Wood), Rob Bowen (Domaines and Vineyards, formerly Chief Winemaker at Houghton’s) and Kim Horton (Ferngrove). 19 wines were pre-poured, in brackets of 6 or 7. We began with the 2009 vintage, moved to the 2007, and finished with 2008. The list of wines follows.

2007

  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Moss Wood
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Forrest Hill
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie

2008

  • Woodlands – Shelley Anne
  • Vasse Felix – Heytesbury
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Houghton – CW Ferguson
  • Moss Wood

2009

  • Woodlands – Alma May
  • Fraser Gallop
  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Ferngrove – Majestic
  • K & B

From the first bracket, discussion ensued as to whether there was ‘typicity’ in the wines of each region that would allow them to be identified. Kim Horton suggested there may be, with cool climate features and a different quality of tannins setting the Great Southern wines apart. (Amy Burch echoed from the floor that differences in average daytime temperatures were indeed significant between the two regions).

Keith Mugford did not fully agree that regional differences were easily picked, especially with the 2009 bracket, suggesting that if indeed there was a difference in terroir, this was trumped by winemaking – use of oak, timing of picking, extent of extraction – and in ripe vintages (as all 3 vintages were), where achieving full phenolic ripeness is not an issue, “the hand of Man was more important than the hand of God”.

I agree with Keith Mugford’s comments – perhaps the choice of wines in this year’s competition for the 2009 vintage in question reflected winemaking more than terroir. And here it is appropriate to return to the horse racing analogy, perhaps “training” was more important than “pedigree” in these particular thoroughbreds.

The terroir argument received more support, however, in the second and third brackets (2007 and 2008 vintages), in that it was easier to detect regional differences, perhaps also reflecting the wines chosen (but also possibly reflecting the brilliant conditions in 2008 in particular, prompting Bill Pannell to declare that in some amazing years, wines just make themselves!) Kim Horton and Rob Bowen insightfully pointed out that the Great Southern region was also made up of very heterogenous terroirs– with Mt Barker and Frankland being very different in terms of rainfall, and as a consequence, vine vigour (with the latter subregion being drier).

Dr Pannell provided an eloquent critique of the show system, suggesting palate fatigue played a part in bigger, fuller styles gaining credit over lighter bodied, more elegant wines. He also made insightful comments about the perhaps bogus task of trying to pick a winner between the two regions. He cited the Rhone Valley, and Cote Rotie and Hermitage in particular, as examples of extremely high quality appellations, commanding equally high prices, but with very different styles. Perhaps we should trust our palates, and choose our favourites according to the style we prefer!

I for one enjoy Cabernets that are of medium body, which are varietally faithful, have all the hallmarks of Cabernet (like tomato leaf, capsicum, cassis, and cigar box when a few years old), complemented but not overly encumbered by oak, with fine, dusty but ripe (not green) tannins, good acid and the structure to allow aging. I say this as a preface to sharing my favourite wines of the tasting, as all the wines selected were of superlative quality, and my preferences simply reflect, well, my preferences.

For what it’s worth, these are the wines I awarded my highest points to, with a brief tasting note:

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Wow! Opulent, stewed (but not over-ripe) fruit characters, varietally spot on, with nicely developed tannins on the front palate.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18.25). Layers and layers of rich cassis, dense, rich, with chocolatey oak. Great length and all elements in balance.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18,75). Still dominated by chocolatey/mocha oak, this wine had amazing depth, palate reach, and flavours that just went on and on. Superb ripe tannin structure allied to liquorice, plum, blackcurrant and boysenberry. (The Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 also brilliant, but young and tight – 18.25 pts).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.75). On the money. Dusty tannins, tomato leaf, capsicum, some development with cigar box and tobacco, ripe cassis fruit, beautiful medium palate weight, persistence and tannin structure. (I gave the Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 18.5 pts also).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18.75). Beautiful and beguiling. Like a gentle kiss, warms your cheek for a good time after. Dense, complex and displaying currant, berry, cherry and mint, it had superlative length, and a lovely tannin structure. My wine of the night. (The Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 , not released for another year, is also a cracker – 18.25 pts).

So what were the results? Well, Margaret River came out on top – by a whisker – amongst both the tasters and the expert panel. In the end, though, the difference was far from being statistically significant, and the real winners were Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia, and those of us lucky enough to enjoy these wines!

John Jens and the Hyatt should be congratulated for putting on such a stellar event, and at such a bargain price. John should get a special mention for his tireless attempts at promoting WA wine, and Cabernet in particular.

If you get the chance to attend next year, go for it! I’ll bet in you having a great night!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Coonawarra Barrel Series 14

2010 Vintage

22 July 2011

Each year, the Coonawarra Vignerons Association holds a dinner and wine auction as part of their Coonawarra Cabernet Celebration. Seven of Coonawarra’s best wine producers each provide a single barrel of wine that is sold on the night. In previous years, you could purchase a minimum of five cases from any barrel. So get a few friends together and start bidding.

So to the wines. There is only one word I would use to describe these wines – remarkable. As a collection, the quality of the wines is outstanding. There really is no weak link, though the styles do vary from one producer to another. Due to the unfinished nature of the wines, I am not awarding points, though they all would have scored 17.75 to 18.5+.

A special thanks to Max Veenhuyzen for kindly arranging this tasting.

Reviewed

Brands Laira – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. The colour is a standout. The fruit on the nose is actually seductive and quite feminine. The palate is powerful, though the fruit is totally shut down by the (balanced) structural components. Give it time.

Katnook – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. More balanced fruit on the nose, managing to integrate the fruit and structural components well. Powerful fruit, but incredible balance for an immature wine. Again, the quality French oak dominates the finish, but this is very fine grained. This will be superb and is, undoubtedly, one of the stars!

Lindermans – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Menthol, blackcurrant and cedar lead off on the nose. Sweet red fruits on the palate that are held back by fine, austere tannins. Really builds and shows great promise.

Majella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Gorgeous colour. The nose is redolent of fragrant, high quality fruit. The palate is quite raw and the oak is a touch dominant, though there is a core of blackcurrant and cedary spice running through the finish. Impressive length. The most immature tasting wine here that needs a few years to come together, but it will blossom.

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Silky, yet restrained fruit on the nose. Firm, structured, medium bodied and elegant, this is the sleeper of the tasting. Excellent length of flavours, with fine tannins to close. A polished wine.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Menzies – Barrel Series – 2010. More of the peppermint and menthol that I have come to expect from Coonawarra. Silky, supple and fine, this is an exercise in restraint. Excellent balance and length make this a very good barrel.

Wynns Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Impenetrable nose. Whilst this is one of the most refined wines tasted, the nose gives little away. Silky and remarkably well integrated, the fruit/oak balance is spot on. Excellent fruit handled with skill, this is a wine for the long haul.

Zema Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Dusty and less integrated than the Katnook. Again, the fruit quality is superb and the structure is spot on. It just needs time to settle down. Great length of flavour on the palate and there was plenty of peppermint and chocolate, typical of a classic Coonawarra cabernet.

Western Australian Cabernet

Reviewed 23 June 2011

Over a period of four days, I reviewed almost 80 cabernet based wines. I have already reviewed some elsewhere, so hear is a cross-section of some of the others.

Reviewed

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely nose that is a blend of red fruits and mint/eucalypt. Displaying obvious cooler region characters, this has promise. Long and fine, with silky tannins. Will take years for the fruit to come out. One for the lovers of Bordeaux.

Woody Nook Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gallaghers Choice – 2009 (18+). Structured and dense, this offers little on the nose right now. The palate shows excellent fruit quality and slick winemaking. Structure and length are spot on. The mint, eucalypt and herbal notes suggest a cooler region. Give it a few years.

Credaro Family Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). The key to this wine is its balance. Ripe fruit, skilled winemaking and quality oak all evident. The fruit really is good and the slightly chewy tannins are very fine. Could develop into a star.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – The Scholar – 2008 (17.9). There is a core of ripe fruit here, with a seductive and quite beautiful nose. A superb palate follows that has ripe fruit and textural components. A fine wine with excellent balance. Well made.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.8). Closed and reserved right now. A very fine wine in the mould of Cullens. Has extraordinary finesse and length, with very silky and refined tannins. Really opens to show lovely mouth-feel and fruit.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.7). A solid wine with a core of dense, ripe fruit. This is quite complex and well made. The length and complexity on the palate are notable. Fine cabernet fruit, this is complex and very long. A smart wine with lovely red fruit.

Brown Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Boulder – 2008 (17.5). More restrained nose with hints of blackcurrent and raspberry. The palate is very structured. Long and fine with quality fruit and winemaking on show.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). A powerful wine of some note. Masculine, though there are hints of quality fruit. Builds in the mouth. Excellent oak and winemaking. in a very structured package.

St Aidens – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17.3+). A very pretty nose that has floral notes. The palate has vibrant red fruits, with enough tannins and acidity to keep it fresh.

Wills Domain – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17+). Too young to assess, but this has good fruit in an approachable package. Genuine length of flavour and good mouth-feel make this a good prospect.

Rosabrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Shows more fruit intensity than some, combined with solid winemaking. This offers plenty of appeal, but needs a year or two to settle down. Smart wine.

Wignalls – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Took its time, but this opened up to show pretty fruit and good length of flavours.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17). A lovely nose here. Refined and elegant, this has ripe fruits at the heart of it. The palate has super-sweet fruit. This is made to drink now and offers plenty of appeal

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2009 (17). Closed and tight nose. Quality fruit that is dense yet refined. Good length of flavour and nice mouth-feel. The quality oak is notable on the finish, but does not detract.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). Ripe and plump fruit, with good fruit weight and mouth-feel. Suitable for early consumption, this is juicy and generous.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed – July 10 2011

Whilst only eight wines made it through the tasting to be reviewed here, there are some very interesting wines that are worth trying for yourself.

Windows Estate is not a wine I have heard of before, but I was very impressed with their wines.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2009 (18). Dense and inky wine that has excellent quality fruit. Whilst there is powerful fruit, the firm tannins and quality oak hold back the palate at present. This is less obvious than their cabernet merlot, but it will be a long term star if you are patient enough. An excellent wine!

Robert Oatley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.9). Blackcurrant aromas flood the nose. The dense fruit is combined with firm structural components. The linear nature of the palate ensures that this tastes like a straight cabernet. The palate is very long and fine, with complex red fruits, smart oak and good structure. Will benefit from some bottle age. (From Margaret River).

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2007 (17.8+). Leads off with some herbal and eucalypt notes, followed by peppermint highlights. The silky and supple palate has hints of dark fruits and chocolate, with fine tannins. This wine’s Coonawara origins are displayed by the menthol aromas and a rich dense core of blackcurrant fruit. I really enjoyed a glass of this with my dinner!

Harewood Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.6). Impressive fruit on what is an interesting style. This has very cool region cabernet fruit on the nose, with menthol and a touch of herbal notes, but the quality of the fruit is really evident on the palate. The sweet fruit is dense and the textural components are spot on.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). Little to show on the nose initially, developing menthol and red fruits with air. The palate is vibrant and expressive. Impressive fruit quality, subtle oak and silky tannins make this a wine worth trying. Just give it some air.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sideways – 2009 (17.5). Lovely perfumed nose. There is ripe fruit with violets and floral notes. There is also complex coffee, chocolate and spice notes. Again, the oak and fruit tannins close down the palate at first, but this is a smart wine.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). This is a refined wine. Silky and elegant, with fine fruit on the nose. Lovely texture, length and mouth-feel with excellent structure on the palate. Not a big wine, but the high quality fruit and wine making are evident. Has a cool region feel to it and represents good short term drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). A fresh wine that has some appeal. Refined and elegant, with excellent length of fruit flavours. Very silky tannins and clever oak hold the fruit back just now. This will be better in a year or two.

Pinot Noir and Cabernet

New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed – 2 June 2011

Like many things in life, the law of diminishing returns applies to wine. As the price goes up, the increase in quality gets progressively less. There is no doubt that going from $10 to $20 for a bottle of wine will deliver a significantly superior wine. But the difference between a $50 and $100 wine is often not so clear.

I mention this because every rule has an exception and, in this tasting, the Vasse Felix – Heytsebury is the exception. At close to $90 per bottle, it was clearly better than everything else here and is worth every cent.

If your budget does not stretch quite that far, then the wines from Brookland Valley, Devils Lair, Houghton and Leeuwin Estate are all worthy alternatives.

A word on value. The 2010 Bordeauxs are currently being sold via indent. The early reports are that the wines are very good. You can buy a good entry level wine for around $50 and the top wines are likely to be in excess of $1000 per bottle. You have to pay for the wines now and will receive them in 2013.

Any of the wines reviewed below represent far better value. You would struggle to find a Bordeaux for less than $100 that could match these wines and the Heytsebury, whilst different in style, is the equal of the best.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.6). Very pretty fruit here. The nose is actually quite floral and perfumed, hinting at red fruits and violets. The floral notes continue in the mouth. This is a pretty wine with great appeal. Whilst this is very fine and elegant, there is great power and concentration of fruit and superb mouth-feel and texture. The oak is fully integrated and the tannins are extraordinarily fine. High quality fruit and winemaking make for a spectacular wine at any price.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Cool climate fruit to the fore. There are herbal and menthol notes, but the underlying fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and powerful, yet the palate retains the cooler region flavours. Opens to show dense, ripe and textured fruit of great appeal. A long term wine in the style of great Bordeaux.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18). Silky, seductive nose that is ripe yet restrained. Cooler region fruit characters that show mint, eucalypt and gentle herbs. The palate is delicate and refined and the finish is silky and very long. Beautiful mouth-feel and quality fruit. Just needs a few years.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Scholar – Single Vineyard Series – 2008 (18+/-) Textbook nose. Concentrated, dense and ripe with restrained fruit. The palate is immensely proportioned, with smoky oak to close. Concentrated and very dense, this is a wine for the long haul. I struggled with this wine as there is so much concentrated fruit that it was hard to assess. Impossible to ignore, try a bottle and make up your own mind.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2005 (17.8). Very good concentration of fruit here. Cedar, eucalypt, mint and dark fruits all caress the nose. The palate is very textured and structured and there is excellent length and concentration. The finish shows silky tannins and a near seamless palate. Shows the benefit of a few extra years in the bottle, but will live for some time yet.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2009 (17.8). Closed, but with fairly straight-forward (high quality) fruit notes. The palate is varietally correct and full of juicy fruit. Builds concentration in the mouth. Has plenty of potential in a more obvious style. After two days on the tasting bench, this really opened up. Smart wine.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2009 (17). Mint and cedar on the nose. The palate is cedary and long. The primary fruit is subdued but there is plenty of interest in the palate. Opens to show lovely fruit. Will get better points in a few years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (17). Well rounded and balanced nose. Nicely weighted and textured, with enough character to make for a good drink. Not the most concentrated, but enjoyable.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – (Red Stripe) – 2010 (16.3). Lovely fresh nose that has purity to the fruit notes. A fruit-forward style that is simple but satisfying. A good value easy drinking red.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed 25 April 2011

Home Brand and Own Brand products have received a significant amount of attention since Coles slashed the price of “Coles” milk. This is not the forum to discuss the positives and negatives of the issue, but I raise it because of Coles’ and Woolworths’ involvement in wine retailing. Coles (Owned by Westfarmers) operates under the Vintage Cellars, Liquorland and First Choice banners, whilst Woolworths has Dan Murphy, BWS and Woolworths Liquor.

For several years, there have been numerous Home Brand, Own Brand and clean skin wines available from these and even smaller independent retailers. Some of these have been recommended in these pages before.

What has changed though is the increasing amount of wines made exclusively for the big retailers under the producers own name. A stunning example of this is the Kirihill shiraz reviewed below. What a steal this wine is! The other wine of note was the Earthworks shiraz which appears to be an own brand. Both wines are available from Vintage Cellars exclusively.

These are not great wines, but they offer fantastic drinkability. At the other end of the spectrum, the Mandala Butterfly is a beautiful wine and the Mount Horricks the best cabernet I have seen from this producer for several years. Enjoy…

Reviewed

Mandala – Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly – 2008 (18.3). Shy and reserved, though there are hints of blueberries. Really high quality fruit here and very slick wine-making. The palate is silky, supple and quite seamless, though there are very fine, almost powdery tannins that build on the finish. The length, structure and mouth-feel are first class. A superb wine, but give it plenty of air if you intend to drink this in the next few years.

Mount Horrocks – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Classic nose of Clare Valley cabernet, showing mint, eucalypt and a core of sweet red fruits. Textured and long, this is a fine wine of real interest. Silky mouth-feel and supple oak make for an excellent finish.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2008 (17.5 – 18+). Wow, really leaps out of the glass. Concentrated, dense and chewy, the toasty oak dominates the finish now. Powerful fruit and a classy finish suggest that this is going to be really good in a few years. A serious wine. 3 gold medals.

Cumulus Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – Climbing – 2009 (17.5). Lovely ripe fruit on the nose, with mint, spice and a touch of leather. Continues on the palate with good density of fruit. A quality wine displaying skills in the vineyard and the winery. Long and elegant close. This is a fine wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2009 (17.5). This is an Interesting wine. Medium bodied fruit and excellent balance. Textured and silky mouth-feel with a long finish that is elegant and persistent. Needs a few years to evolve.

Kirrihill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). Crushed ants, blackcurrant and a touch of cassiss to open. Powerful palate that is all about ripe fruit, though the finish is textured, dense and fine. The silky tannins are firm, but there is excellent fruit quality. This received extra points for being a good drink right now! $12 from Vintage Cellars only.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.4). Concentrated fruit suggestive of a cooler area. Dense and powerful, but really tight and young. Medium bodied with a slightly savoury finish and fine tannins to close. Has potential, but I need to see this again.

Laurance – Cabernet Sauvignon – Icon – 2009 (17.3). Dense and complex nose. Really draws you into the glass. Concentrated blackcurrant and a touch of crushed ants. The finish is fine and the fruit elegant, though the structural components close down the finish. Well made, with quality fruit, this will be even better in 5 years. (I liked this despite the unusual bottle that may prove difficult to cellar).

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2009. (17.2). Dense and a touch dusty to open. Ripe fruit tending toward the plum spectrum, but with lovely red fruits opening up on the palate. Very good length, ripe tannins and structure, this needs a few years to open up and show its best.

Mandala – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.2). Slightly dusty cabernet nose over a core of ripe fruit. Blueberry, blackcurrant, spice and cedary oak. The finish is firm, and the oak grip is a bit dominant at present. Good quality fruit has been handled well. Should evolve well in the medium term. (This was drinking beautifully after a couple of days on the tasting bench).

Earthworks – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barossa – 2008 (16.9). Forward fruit that is quite straightforward, but with obvious appeal. Packed with juicy fruit on the palate. Very good everyday red that has a soft and round finish. Benefits from having an extra year in bottle compared to most here. Value at $12.50.

Willow Bridge – Cabernet/Merlot- Dragonfly – 2009 (16.6). A sound, if somewhat commercial wine style. Balanced, long, juicy and not to complicated, this is good current drinking and should be excellent value.

Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release

Reviewed – 28 March 2011

There was a fairly high attrition rate in this tasting. This was mainly due to the disagreement between panel members on individual wines.

There were some high quality wines, with the Fraser Gallop and Vasse Felix being the standouts. 2008 has proved to be a very elegant year for Margaret River cabernet based wines. They are not quite as rich as the 2007’s but they are balanced and refined. The Leeuwin Estate is also noteworthy, coming from the more difficult 2006 vintage.

Finally, the cheapy from Shingleback offers great quaffing. It would be great with a lazy Sunday BBQ.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.1). Dense yet bright fruit. Cedar, cinnamon, blueberry and spice gently waft from the glass. Medium bodied, this is bit deceptive as the fruit is quit powerful and persistent. The finish is a touch firm at present, though there is no questioning the balance. This took two days to really open up, displaying a generosity of fruit that is very appealing. A smart wine for the cellar.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2006 (17.8). A touch more weight and power than the other older wines. This has fruit that tends toward the plum spectrum, but with fresh acidity and fine tannins. The mouth-feel and fruit weight are spot on. Blackcurrant on the close. This is a serious wine that took three days to show its best. It is one of the best 2006 Margaret River cabernets that I have seen.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8). A structured wine, with classic cabernet fruit aromas on the nose. There are cedary overtones, with mint, eucalypt and red fruits. The palate is a little firm, with mocha notes to the fore. The underlying fruit quality is excellent, but this needs 5 years to come together and will drink well for many more.

Tatachilla – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.7). Immediate appeal here. Forward and lifted fruit on the nose. Ripe, round, generous and fruit driven. There are lovely dark fruits on the palate. Deceptive finish as the soft fruit is the dominant character, but there is excellent length and persistence. Very fine tannins on the close become slightly chewy. Excellent short to medium term drinking. (From McClaren Vale).

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.6). Complex nose that possesses a degree of balance. A silky wine with bright red fruits. This presents as a fruit driven style, yet the structural components open up on the finish. Fine though drying fruit and oak tannins balance the finish of this modern and well made wine. A wine to watch over the next year or so as this may blossom.

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2006 (17.5). Still a touch reserved and shy. An elegant wine that is balanced and refined. Only medium bodied, this is silky and fine.

Parker Estate – Merlot – Terra Rossa – 2006 (17.4). Dense, yet sweet, ripe and generous fruit on the nose. Cedar and spice underpin blackcurrant and red fruit. Delicious fruit on the palate, but already showing some bottle development. The structure is mellowed enough to make this good drinking right now. Quality merlot.

Umamu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.3). Interesting nose that has both sweet and savoury components. Silky fruit that is elegant and refined. The fruit is a little shy and the very fine and silky tannins coat the tongue. A good wine.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2009 (17). A real crowd pleaser. Ripe, generous, soft and round, this wine has delicious mouth-filling fruit. This is not complicated or particularly serious, but it is an honest wine that delivers mouthfuls of drinking joy. With a RRP of $15 this is definitely worth a try but give it some air to allow the fruit to shine.

Cool Climate Cabernet

Last Sunday Tasting

11 February 2010

Non French, cool climate cabernet was the theme for our last Sunday tasting group. The topic itself generated quite a bit of discussion as to what cool climate referred to. We mainly went for wines from cooler sub-regions of the more recognised cabernet producing areas.

Overall, the quality of the wines was excellent and the wine of the tasting was the Larose from Stonyridge. A more complete wine you could not hope to taste. As always, the vagaries of cork played a role, with some potentially excellent wines not being reviewed due to questions around taint. Both the warm up whites were enjoyable, though the Vouvray had a surprising amount of residual sugar for a “sec”.

A special thanks to Eva for the excellent meal!

Reviewed

Stonyridge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Larose – Waiheke Vineyard – 2000 (18.5). Dense and inky colour. Fantastic nose with a touch of sea salt, blackcurrant and spice. Silky, vibrant and oh so long. Textured and very fine tannins. Touch of smoky oak on the finish.

Ridge – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Santa Cruz Mountains – 1996 (18.3). Silky and seamless, this is a lovely wine. The nose is mature and seductive, while the palate has lovely texture and a silky mouth-feel. Long and feminine.

Silver Oak – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alexander Valley – 1992 (18.2). Some earthy and meaty notes with lift and a touch smoky oak. Dense and vibrant fruit on the palate. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. There is a touch of vanillin oak on the very long palate. Complex and fully mature.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petite Verdot/Cabernet Franc – Harry’s Monster (18). Dense and powerful wine with licorice and allspice on the nose. The palate is a revelation. The fruit is still youthful but there is enough development and complexity to make for good drinking. Complete wine with balance and elegance.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003 (18). Classic nose. Powerful herbal and menthol notes with ripe blackcurrant in the background. Firm palate but ripe fruit tannins. Impressive.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1997 (17.8). Developed nose. Silky and sexy. There are some mint and eucalypt notes. Not as dense in the middle palate but complex and long. Lovely drink.

Bannockburn – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1991 (17.7+). A touch of earth pong on the nose. Leathery and supple on the palate, this is very long with blackcurrant and cinnamon. Mature, earthy and complete.

Rieussec – Semillon blend – R – 2007 (17.5). A dry white wine from this famous Sauterne producer. This is a complex wine that has had plenty of wine-maker’s inputs. There is peach and melon on the nose from the fruit and oak. The palate is textured, creamy and quite long. Oak still evident but there is also a lovely minerality. Needs time to open.

Wynn’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – (Black Label) – 1994. (17.5). Very youthful and firm. May evolve.

Domaine Huet – Vouvray – La Mont – Sec – 2007 (17.4). Slightly oily, this is viscous and aromatic with floral notes. The palate is round and complex with enough residual sugar to be noticeable. Lovely mouth-feel. (A touch sweet for a “sec” but delicious all the same).

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 1991 (17.3). Leather and spice. Some menthol and cloves. The palate is dense and taught with a touch of blackcurrant. A meaty wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1992 (17). Sweet fruit nose with leather and briar. Aged and textured with savoury fruit. Mature but the finish remains firm.

Delatite – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – RJ – 1998 (16.8). Peppermint and cloves. Sweet fruit, but very drying finish.

Ridge – Santa Cruz Mountains – 2004 (16.5). Vibrant hue. Wow. Intense but youthful and firm. Tannins are ripe but dominant. Some herbal and capsicum fruit on the palate with a touch of sweet and sour sauce. Will probably get much better in a few years.