Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

My wine week has involved tastings across a number of styles, including sparkling wines and Shiraz. I will write about some of these in coming weeks, but I wanted to share a couple of refreshing wines for spring, as well as two Australian classics.

Aylesbury have produced a vibrant and smashable 2020 Gamay (89pts – $30). This is in the nouveau style that preserves juicy fruit. A fun wine.

If Rosé is your thing, then Oakway’s 2020 il vino Rosato (88pts – $25) is worth a look. Bright and fresh with a refreshing saline tang. Bring on the antipasto.

Shaw & Smith played an important role in putting Australian Sauvignon Blanc on the map. The 2020 (92pts – $29) is fresh and lively and another cracking drink.

Reviewed

Marri Wood Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2019. Lifted melon, stone fruit and grassy notes that leads to lemon fruit and acidity that build on the finish. The texture of the palate is a highlight, courtesy of the supple lees and barrel influences. Most importantly, this is a good drink. 17.8/20 (92pts) $28.

Tahbilk – Marsanne – 2020. Aromatic and lifted, with sherbet, musk and floral fruit. Really quite delicious, if a little linear at present. Experience suggests that with bottle age, the palate will fill out and gain complexity and texture, transforming the wine. An Australian classic and a bargain to boot.  17/20 (89pts) $16.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 2018. Another amazing wine under this historic label. Intense, pretty floral fruit, that is elegant, balanced, refined and very long.  With a supple and textured mouth-feel, this is delicious now but also sure to build depth and power in the cellar. 18.3/20 (94pts) $40.

Shaw & Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2020. Fresh and lively, with pristine fruit. Excellent balance aided by zesty acidity and near seamless palate transition. Aiming for lightness on the palate rather than density, and a rewarding drink. 17.8/20 (92pts).

St Aiden – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2020. Dry and savoury with delicious ripe tropical fruit and gentle viscosity. Think green guava, passionfruit and pineapple, with a hint of musk, citrus and hint of saline tang. From Ferguson. 17.5/20pts (91pts) $20.

Smallwater Estate – Unwooded Chardonnay – 2020. This is well made, with decent fruit and texture, aided by gentle viscosity that adds mouth-feel. I would rather drink this than most NZ SB on a warm afternoon. 17/20 (89pts) $22

Aylesbury – Gamay – Q05 – 2020.  Vibrant and smashable. The souring cherry fruit adds texture, attractive astringency and souring acidity. A nouveau style full of berry fruit. 17/20 (89pts) $30    

Oakway Estate – Nero D’Avola – Il Vino Rosato – 2020. Made as a Rosé, this has an attractive pale salmon colour. Bright and fresh, with a supple saline tang and mouth-watering acidity. Almost chewy in texture, this could take some food. 16.8/20 (88pts) $25.

Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

Let’s be clear: glasses make a difference in two important ways.

The shape primarily affects the aromas that you perceive coming out of the wine related to surface area, as well as how the aromas are concentrated at the top. But the shape also plays an important role in where the wine lands on your tongue, which affects flavour perception as well.

The second important feature of a good glass is the presence of a cut rim. Cheap glasses tend to have a rolled rim, which theoretically makes the glass stronger and is presumably cheaper to make. The rolled rim works like a speed bump for the wine, impeding the smooth flow of wine onto your tongue.

A cut rim, however, delivers the wine onto the palate in a precise fashion, impacting on what flavour characteristics are perceived first.

If money is not an issue, then several companies will happily sell you a different glass for each type of wine that you are drinking.  But not only is this very expensive, it is also impractical, as over the course of a dinner party, you will go through dozens of glasses.

I have been doing extensive research over the last few months and came to a surprising conclusion: there is no single glass that is perfect. They all accentuate slightly different characteristics of a wine.

In general, a glass should be tulip shaped, so that the aromas are concentrated at the top. But the shape of the bowl affects the fruit characters. A wider bowl accentuates the berry aromas, whilst a narrower bowl tends to accentuate the structure (making the wine more tannic).

I also prefer a glass with a stem. Picking the glass up by the stem prevents the bowl from getting dirty, ensuring the wine looks as good at the end of the evening as it did at the start. But importantly, by using the stem, it stops your hand from warming up the wine too quickly.

Glasses do not need to be expensive. You can buy perfectly acceptable glasses from the big chains for only a few dollars per glass.

For me, the best all-purpose glass is the Riedel Vinum Riesling Grand Cru/Zinfandel glass. ($40). It makes everything from Champagne to Shiraz taste good, is attractive and is easy to fit into the dishwasher. I have been using this for years at home, and it is surprisingly durable.

For poolside entertaining, the Plumm Unbreakable Red+ ($40 for a set of four) is a versatile glass made from unbreakable polycarbonate. An excellent, affordable compromise.

NB. Whilst a good glass may be a bit more expensive, it is a small investment compared to the cost of the wines that you will put in it over its lifetime. If it only makes a small improvement to the enjoyment of the wine, then this is still a good investment.

Barry Weinman: 16^th December 2020

Wondering what to get the wine-fanatic in your life for Christmas? But don’t want to break the bank? Well here are a few items that I have rigorously tested though the year and that have become part of my wine life at home.

Check online for stockists or try your local independent retailer.

Corkscrew: The Durand®

The secret to a good corkscrew is the length of the screw. A longer screw will reach through to the bottom of the cork, reducing the chance of breakage. For wines older than 20 years though, The Durand® is the only device I use. This ingeniously combines an ah-so style opener with a separate corkscrew.

The ah-so releases the cork from the side of the bottle, whilst the corkscrew holds the cork together and helps remove it from the bottle.

Champagne Stopper

A good champagne stopper is essential to preserve the effervescence of your favourite Champagne or Sparkling wine. The best will keep a half-full bottle fresh for up to a week, but they are not miracle workers.

If you repeatedly remove the stopper to top up glasses, then the wine will go flat regardless. Also, the fuller the bottle, the longer it will last.

If you want a bottle to last more than a day, then I recommend pouring out what is required and then immediately popping on the stopper and putting it back in the fridge.

The two best performing stoppers in my tests were:

AVINA Champagne & Wine Locking Bottle Stopper ($20 from Winesave) is attractive and versatile. This seals so well that the bottle can be laid on its side in the fridge. It is also the only stopper that works with ordinary wine bottles as well if needed. This is my personal favourite.

WAF Brevetti ($25 from Vine & Bubble) is a secure stopper with an excellent seal. This is Tyson Seltzer’s preferred stopper.

Wine Preserver (budget)

There are several brands of wine preservers on the market. These are cans of inert gas. To preserve an open bottle, you simply put a squirt into the open bottle before putting the cork back in.

For best effect, pour out all the wine that you require into a glass or decanter and then immediately put in a squirt of gas. This minimises the amount of oxidation. I have found that young wines will last at least a week if done this way.

This means I can open a decent bottle even if I only want a glass or two, and not have to worry about wasting the rest of the bottle.

I am using Private Preserve Wine Preserver at home.

Wine Preserver (prestige)

For the wine lover that has everything, Coravin (Model 3 from $380) may well be the perfect Christmas gift. This device allows the user to enjoy a glass (or more) of wine from a bottle, without removing the cork.

You insert a needle through the wine’s cork and inject an inert gas. This then forces a corresponding amount of wine out of the bottle and into your glass.

The inert gas will protect the remaining wine, preserving it for consumption days or even weeks later.

A Wolf at the Door

Barry Weinman: 13^th November 2020

I was asked why I continue to review wines from the bigger, more popular wineries. It was suggested that reviewing some of the funky newer producers and styles would be more interesting.

My answer? I review the wines that offer great drinking (or cellaring potential) at their given price point regardless of the producer.

Quality breeds success. Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood and Penfolds are household names because of the consistent quality of wines they produce year after year.

Newer wineries making outstanding wines also gravitate to the top. Examples include Singlefile and Swinney from the Great Southern.

But I would love to hear what you are interested in or would like reviewed. Drop a note to barry@finewineclub.com.au

Wolf Blass is an example of a venerable producer currently making excellent wines. Wolf Blass exploded onto the wine scene in the 1970s, winning the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy in 1974, 1975 & 1976 with consecutive Black Label reds.

Fast forward 45 years and the winery is still producing rich, generous, delicious wines that can offer great value. That it is owned by one of the big players may diminish the romance but does nothing to diminish quality.

The 2017 Black Label and 2016 Platinum Label are outstanding, but the value point in the range is the 2018 Grey Labels. Rich, generous, delicious and a brilliant bargain when on special.

For a Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing experience, try the Flowstone Queen of the Earth Sauvignon Blanc – as powerful and complex as any Chardonnay from Margaret River.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Queen of the Earth – Sauvignon Blanc– 2018. Powerful and overt, with grassy notes, lemon zest and minerality. The palate is more impactful than seamless, with intense grapefruit acidity and supple oak/lees add depth and mouthfeel. An almost saline minerality adds texture. The flavours linger for an age. 18.3/20 (94pts) $50.

Wolf Blass – Grey Label – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz– 2018. Refined and elegant, this is familiar, seductive and intoxicating all at the same time. The palate is quite closed, but shows lovely cinnamon, spice and savoury/textural components. With air the blue fruits build. Should age well and is great value when on sale. 18.5/20 (95pts) $45.

Wolf Blass – Grey Label – Shiraz– 2018. Pretty and ripe, with an intensity and depth to the fruit that is captivating. The palate is supple and silky, with plum, blackcurrant and a touch of liquorice all supported by savoury oak. A near-seamless finish rounds out this rich, generous, irresistible wine. 18.4/20 (94+pts) $45.

Mandoon Estate: Fortune Favours the Brave

Barry Weinman: 30^th October 2020

Ryan Sudano must surely be one of the most fortunate winemakers in Australia. After all, how many winemakers get to design and build their dream winery from scratch as their first task upon joining a venture?

Mandoon Estate was established by the Erceq family in 2009 and the Swan Valley winery was completed in time for the 2010 vintage. Ryan was also fortunate to be given access to high quality fruit from which to craft the Mandoon range of wines. This includes a 100 year-old block of Verdelho attached to the winery, as well as the mature Bramley Research Station vineyard in Margaret River.

Whilst the Swan Valley and Margaret River vineyards provide the majority of the fruit, Shiraz is also sourced from Frankland River.

But luck is only part of the equation. None of this would count for much without a talented winemaker. In just 10 vintages, Ryan has established himself as one of Western Australia’s most successful winemakers, with 88 trophies (primarily in local wine shows) and 167 gold medals awarded to Mandoon Estate wines.

Mandoon Estate has also become somewhat of an oasis for visitors to the Swan Valley. The initial cellar door was opened in 2011, but the owners had bigger plans.

In 2014 an impressive new venue was opened, including a cellar door, brewery, function centre and restaurant. The addition of accommodation in 2017 completed the picture.

The latest wine releases are excellent. The 2016 Research Station Reserve Cabernet should be available in November.

Reviewed

Mandoon Estate– Block 1895 – Verdelho – 2020. The original 1895 plantings are the oldest Verdelho in WA. Opens with lifted pineapple and tropical fruits on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with excellent length and texture supported by zippy citrus acidity. Drink now or cellar for increased complexity. (17.5/20pts – $28).

Mandoon Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay– 2018. Perfectly ripe, but with cooler spectrum grapefruit and melon notes. The palate is mouth-watering, long and delicious, with zesty, lime-juice acidity driving the finish. A few years in bottle will allow the fruit to open, but a lovely drink now. From the cooler Karridale region. (18.3/20pts – $59).

Mandoon Estate – Research Station Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016. Attractive red currant and blackberry fruit that is perfumed and lifted. Ripe berries flood the palate, supported by mint and gentle eucalypt. A wine of power and intensity, with super fine tannins leaving a drying finish, yet this remains remarkably seamless. (18.5+/20 – $TBC)

All that Glitters is not Gold

Barry Weinman: 16^th October 2020

Decanter Magazine recently announced the results of their World Wine Awards. Fraser Gallop was awarded Best in Show for their 2018 Parterre Chardonnay (from almost 1,000 Chardonnays!).

Whilst this is great recognition of the quality of the wine, trophies and gold medals awarded at wine shows need to be looked at in context.

As with this column, they only judge what is available to taste and many wineries refuse to submit wines for judging. The reason for this is twofold.

Firstly, there is the expense involved. Wineries pay a fee for each wine entered and have to submit numerous bottles of wine for assessment. These wines could otherwise be sold commercially.

Secondly, there may be little to be gained from a reputational point of view. No one would be surprised if Penfold’s Grange was awarded the world’s best Shiraz. But there would be surprise and reputational damage if it only received a bronze medal.

Wine shows and reviews are a great guide but have limitations.

A wine in contention for the most unusual wine of 2020 is the utterly delicious April Red from Patritti. Patritti is one of the last suburban wineries in Adelaide, with control over two of the last suburban vineyards.

The historic Marion Vineyard was planted to Grenache and Shiraz in 1907 whilst “Laffer’s Triangle”, on the banks of the Sturt, has old plantings of Pedro Ximinez.

The April Red is a delicious blend of these vineyards and is the first red wine released from the 2020 vintage in Australia.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay– 2018. White peach and grapefruit over marzipan and gentle spicy oak notes. The palate is supple, refined and full of life, with the acidity adding delicious energy.  Yet the intensity of fruit at the core is the defining feature. A very fine wine indeed! (18.5/20pts – $50).

Patritti – April Red – 2020. An unusual blend of Grenache and Pedro Ximinez from historic Adelaide vineyards. Ripe, bright and succulent with juicy cherry and berry fruit, with liquorice and spice on the finish. Zippy acidity adds to the fun. Delicious alternative to lighter reds as the weather warms. (17.3/20pts – $24).

Higher Planes – The Messenger – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016. The cooler climate, minty fruit is ripe and supple, and has been skilfully combined with fine oak and tannins resulting in an elegant, approachable wine. Yet there is the depth and structure to support bottle aging. A lovely wine. (18.5/20pts – $50).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Philip Adrian – 2017. Opens with cooler spectrum berry and red currant fruit that is perfectly ripe. The palate is intense, yet fine and elegant, with supple oak (50% new) adding depth and savoury complexity. Impressively packaged, this is a masterpiece for the vintage. (18.6/20pts – $100).

Wendouree: 2013 & 2017 Vintage Review

Barry Weinman: 11^th October 2020

With the imminent release of the 2018 vintage, I took the opportunity to open a cross-section of wines from both 2017 & 2013 for the tasting panel to see how they are developing.

The wines are incredibly hard to find, so I had to take a few deep breaths before opening them. Yes, there was the cost of opening twelve bottles of Wendouree reds., but It was more to do with the fact that this represented a significant portion of my allocation for each vintage.

In 2018 for example, I was only able to secure three bottles of each of the wines.

But I am so glad that I did so for several reasons.

Firstly, the wines are truly outstanding. Tasting the 2013 Shiraz, for example, was a spine-tingling experience. One of Australia’s greatest red wines???

And many of the others were not far behind, with many scores between 18.5 and 19. This consistency of quality across the range is something that few can match.

For me, the Shiraz and Cabernet are the pinnacle, closely followed by the Cabernet/Malbec. The Shiraz/Malbec and straight Malbec and the Shiraz/Mataro just a touch behind perhaps, but still great wines in their own right.

Secondly, it gave the panel the opportunity to compare and contrast the two vintages from a style perspective.

The 2013s’ were classically styled, with precise (if restrained) fruit and restrained structure. Everything is in its place and it is slowly starting to open up.

In contrast, the 2017s’ had an immediacy to the red berry fruit that was both surprising and delicious. Yet the trademark tannins and structure make these just as age-worthy.

Both are great, with strong support for both from the panel.

Finally, it also gave glimpse at how the wines evolve in the short term.

James Halliday recently commented that Wendouree releases over the last ten years have been more approachable at an early age and went so far as to say that he would be drinking some of these in the near future.

But I take a slightly different view. Wendouree reds have always been about elegance and restrained power. And these wines are no different. It was fascinating to see how they opened and evolved in the bottle over the following few days.

On day two and three, they were quite beautiful to drink, but it was clear that they will be at their best decades into the future.

But if you wanted to choose one to drink now, my pick would be the Malbec. Fragrant, delicious and a beautiful wine.

2013 Vintage

Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2013. Firm and structured, but the purity of fruit sits above the tannins and fine oak. Not quite silky at this stage, but elegant and very refined. The textural components build on the finish. With air, the power becomes palpable. Density increases, but the balance and elegance remains. Almost medium bodied. 18.4/20

Wendouree – Shiraz/ Malbec – 2013. More depth and power to the fruit compared to the Shiraz /Mataro. The palate is a delight. Savoury hints, but the pure (mulberry) fruit is the star. Tannins and oak are invisible, yet add a veneer of structure that gives this wine great balance. Superb, seamless, fine. 18.7/20

Wendouree – Malbec – 2013. Possesses a wow factor. Lifted ripe berry fruit combined with elegant structure and super fine tannins. Silky, yet the finish gradually gets closed down by the structural components. Elegant and refined, this is a star. 18.7/20

Wendouree – Cabernet /Malbec – 2013. The fruit here is spectacular! Focused, precise and pretty. The palate is a revelation; layers of blue berry fruits and supple, savoury, structural notes. Remarkably elegant and fine, given the innate power that lurks beneath the surface. So long and dense. Now to eternity. 18.9/20

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2013. An unbelievably good wine. Fragrant, perfumed and vibrant, with the gentlest of savoury oak, combined with fine tannins that slowly build across the finish. Remarkably elegant for a wine of such depth and power. Liquorice and spice notes build with air. The overall favourite wine of the panel. 18.9/20

Wendouree –Cabernet – 2013. Typical Clare mint and eucalypt sitting over the most precise and elegant fruit that you could imagine. More structural components than the shiraz, with concentration and breathtaking depth of fruit. Blueberry, blackcurrant and so much more. A remarkable wine. 19.3/20

2017 Vintage

Wendouree – Shiraz /Mataro – 2017. Beautiful lifted fruit on the nose. Again, fine and elegant, but this has a little more fruit weight up front that needs time to open up. The raspberry and cherry fruit is supported by supple oak. With air the fruit builds and looks very pretty and pure. Great wine. 18.6/20

Wendouree – Shiraz /Malbec – 2017. Riper and a little bit of plum over the berry fruit. Taut and structured, with higher acidity, this is the most closed of the wines so far. Impressive, but not as approachable as the others are right now. Needs years. 18/20

Wendouree – Malbec – 2017. Riper, with an almost juicy character to the fruit complemented by oak that is near invisible.  Higher in acid, this needs time for the fruit to settle down and open up. But with air, this really shines becoming quite delicious. 18.5/20

Wendouree – Cabernet/Malbec – 2017. Wow wow wow. Spectacular fruit. Ripe and powerful, with the succulent berry notes the main focus. Sure, there is plenty of tannins and acid, but the fruit is the primary focus. Easy to overlook the seriousness of this wine given the immediacy, but cellaring will be rewarded. With air this is quite remarkable. 19/20

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2017 If possible, this was even better than the 2013. The fruit is vibrant and lifted, with more in common with Grand Cru Burgundy than a typical Australian Shiraz. Very long and supple, the wine-making inputs invisible. Words escape me. 19.2/20

Wendouree – Pressings – 2017. I was not expecting this to be just so good. Refined, elegant and long, with lovely blueberry fruit the main focus. The acid balance is brilliant, leaving the palate alive and fresh.. Is it the  ultimate food wine? It’s certainly the best drinking young Wendouree that I can remember. (Yet the powerful tannins are palpable underneath.) 18.5/20

Substance versus Style

Barry Weinman: 30^th September 2020

In the wine industry, like in fashion, styles change over time. What is considered fashionable is often dictated by wine show judges and the major newspaper wine writers.

After all, who is going to question the quality and style of a wine that has won a swag of trophies and gold medals and received scores of 96 – 99 points from the experts?

But sometimes, there is a disconnect between what the critics are advocating and what consumers will enjoy.

I consider myself, first and foremost, a consumer of wine, therefore the wines that I review are ones that I am happy to drink, rather than esoteric wines that appeal to the jaded critic.

Chardonnay is an excellent example of changes in wine fashion. In the 1990s, Chardonnay tended to be very ripe and heavily oaked. Then, after a decade of slow evolution, around 2010 there was a notable shift to leaner, more austere wines that lacked joy and required extended aging to hit their straps. This was particularly so in Victoria.

Fortunately, in Western Australia at least, there has been a tendency to avoid these large stylistic swings and to concentrate on the middle ground.

The 2019 Devil’s Lair Chardonnay is a great example of this style. Elegant and refined, yet with a generosity of fruit that makes it quite irresistible.

For Pinot Noir and Riesling, it has been more about refining the style rather than wholesale change and the two wines reviewed are excellent examples.

Reviewed

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – 2019. Very fine and elegant, with white peach and gentle nectarine aromas. The palate is fresh, vibrant and precise, with supple oak and partial (50%) malolactic fermentation adding depth and texture. The generous fruit has excellent length and persistence. A great drink now – 5 years. 18.5/20pts – $45.

Duke’s – Magpie Hill Reserve – Riesling – 2020. Gently aromatic and perfumed fruit with lime blossom, talc and sherbet notes. The palate is steely and powerful, with great intensity of fruit. Seamless and very long, with tingling acidity to close. A profound wine and one of Australia’s greatest Rieslings. 18.8/20pts – $42.

Castelli – Pinot Noir – 2019. Lighter, finer and prettier than many new world Pinots, resulting in a serious, yet approachable wine of some note. The quality fruit is savoury, supple, textured and quite delicious, with enough depth and structure from the clever winemaking to support short term cellaring.  Good value! 18/20pts – $34

Barry Weinman: 30^th September 2020

Year after year, Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series Chardonnay garners a huge amount of praise and attention, and rightly so. After all, this has a long history of being one of the greatest white wines made in Australia, with an enviable 38 vintage history.

With all the focus on Chardonnay, it is very easy to overlook the rest of the portfolio. However, this would be a mistake, given the sheer quality shown across the entire range.

Since 2010, the red wines in particular have really shone, and are now equalling the very best wines of the region and also offer great value.

For example, the 2015 Art Series Cabernet was consistently one of my highest rated wines in blind tastings of great Australian Cabernets. Yet remarkably, it is still widely available for around $80, and offers excellent value compared to some of its counterparts.

The recently released 2016 is another superb wine, albeit in a slightly different style. More perfumed, fragrant and approachable than I recall previous releases, but equally age-worthy.

The Art Series Shiraz is, if anything, even better value than the Cabernet. Mature vines and sympathetic winemaking results in a vibrant, elegant wine with depth and texture.

The best value of all comes from the Prelude Chardonnay. This is an excellent wine in its own right and is a fraction of the cost of the Art Series.

The Riesling is also noteworthy. While it’s not a fashionable grape for the region, this is an excellent, age-worthy wine.

Whichever way you look at it, the consumer is the winner!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Riesling – Art Series – 2019 (18/20pts – $23). Floral, with taut mineral/steely notes. The palate is slightly viscous and oily, with crisp citrus acidity. The finish is fine, racy, textured and long, building supple lime to close.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2018 (18+/20pts – $36). Gorgeous peachy stone fruit aromas and flavours. The palate is vibrant and alive, with the zesty grapefruit acidity giving way to gentle oak, barrel ferment and lees notes. The supple texture and near seamless finish is remarkable at this price point. While not as deep as the Art Series, it is still utterly delicious.               

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prelude – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $32). Fragrant and juicy berry fruit, with fine tannins and savoury oak adding depth and texture. The vibrancy makes this a great drink now, but it will also take short term cellaring.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2016 (18.6/20pts – $79). Wonderfully perfumed, with fragrant berries and so much more. On the palate, the fruit still shines, but the supple structure gives this a degree of gravitas.  Minerality, fine oak (50% new), chewy, savoury notes and talc-like tannins. Powerful enough for long term aging, yet subtle enough for immediate drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2017 (18.3/20pts – $42). This may be cooler climate Shiraz, but there is wonderful berry/cherry fruit leaping from the glass. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with supple oak and tannins adding depth and texture. Gets chewy on the close, but the finish remains relatively supple and poised, with excellent length.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2018. (17.5/20pts – $25). This has more depth and structure than I was expecting. There is still the vibrant, pretty fruit, but this is complemented by savoury, earthy complexity that would make this a great choice with food.

A multi-axial approach towards understanding the (red) wines of Burgundy

Brendan Jansen MW

24^th September 2020

The wines of Burgundy can be as seductive and beguiling as they can be confusing. This small plot of land – with the Cote D’Or comprising only about 13,000 hectares as compared to Bordeaux’s over 120,000 hectares – is infused with wine history and intrigue. The still wines of Burgundy, of both red and white incarnations, are widely viewed as the most wonderful in the world of wine. Winemakers around the world aspire to produce wines that can come close to rivalling the best Burgundy has to offer.

Much of the mystique around Burgundy stems from the in-depth analysis and classification in the region, pioneered by Cistercian monks over centuries, adding at once both a stamp of authority and an air of opacity.

I, too, have fallen victim to Burgundy’s charms, and I, too, have sought to understand this ever-changing, complex and multi-faceted area.

I do not pretend to be a Burgundy expert – far from it, in fact. I believe that to truly understand Burgundy one has to live and breathe the place, and preferably live and breathe IN the place – as do the likes of Jasper Morris MW and Clive Coates MW.

Yet I have found a formula that I believe assists, and am bravely sharing it.

A quick word on the term “multi-axial”: I borrow it from my psychiatry roots, where, in the American Psychiatric Association’s Diagnostic and Statistical Manual (DSM), diagnoses were, up to the most current fifth edition, spread across five axes. The intention was to highlight the complexities of psychiatric formulation, by making specific reference in the final assessment of such elements as global functioning, psychosocial stresses, personality style, and organicity.

Translating that to the Burgundian setting, I have come to appreciate that certain variables are important, and act somewhat independently from others, yet contribute to the complex “formulation” of the wine. In Burgundy (as in other areas wherein small lots and artisanal holdings predominate, as in Piedmont, Italy) these axes are those of

• Vintage
• Commune
• Quality level, and
• Producer

VINTAGE

Taking each of these in isolation, vintage variation continues to be a major factor influencing both yield and quality in Burgundy, despite the irrefutable march of climate change. While global warming continues, the presence of extreme weather events continues to haunt Burgundian vignerons, especially the curse of hail.

There are perhaps several points to be made about vintage – firstly, increasingly important has work in the vineyard become. Aggressive foliage management, disease control, frost mitigation and yield adjustment can result in very sound wines. Moreover, poorer vintages may bring out larger variations in communal terroir than “good” vintages. (Of course, vintages rated poor for white wines might not be so for red, and vice versa.) Further, hyperlocal variation in weather events can be evident from village to village, vineyard to vineyard, even row to row.

Very reliable vintage charts are widely available, and represent a dependable and accessible resource. I use those available on JancisRobinson.com.

COMMUNE

Provenance is another important axis. Broadly speaking, the Cote de Beaune reds are less muscular and sinewy that those of the Cote de Nuits. There are of course, exceptions. Volnay and Pommard abut each other in the Cote de Beaune, but the ferric content in the Pommard soils leads to much more tannic wines. Likewise, in the Cotes de Nuits, wines from Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanee are softer and more perfumed than the more brooding wines of Gevrey Chambertin. Other appellations are “midway”, and the characters of their wines in part depend on where in the commune the vines sit geographically.

QUALITY DESIGNATION

Quality levels – from AOC Bourgogne, up to Village wines, to Premier Cru and then Grand Cru status – offer an in-built system by which we Burgundy lovers can obtain direction. Quality classifications may be similar in different communes, but objective overall quality is not easily comparable. Consider a Premier Cru wine from a well-known appellation such as Vosne Romanee as compared to, say, one from lesser renowned Beaune or Fixin. Nonetheless, these quality levels reflect longstanding acknowledgement of the superiority of some sites within the appellation – due to soil, aspect, terroir….

PRODUCER

Finally, there is the axis of Producer, which can be code for “care in the vineyard” and/or “winemaking techniques”. In regard to the latter – there are as many formulae touted for making the best red Burgundy wines as there are producers. Variations include the inclusion of stems or whole bunches, the pre and post maceration regime (if any), the temperature of fermentation, the type of, and treatment with, oak, to name but a handful of the myriad that exist. Winemaking can of course vary from year to year in the same producer, and aspects such as the degree of protective handling and cleanliness in the winery come into play.

Winemaker variables explain, for example, why two wines from a particular vintage, and particular appellation, and even particular vineyard, can command vastly different prices. Some winemakers develop a cult status, ensuring prices of their best wines are astronomical, and out of reach to most.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

How does this multiaxial approach assist the average consumer? Price can assist, as broadly speaking, two wines that cost, say A$150 each will have a similar objective quality level, irrespective of producer, quality designation or commune. But going beyond that, I hope the axes mentioned above can help.

An understanding of vintage conditions is a good start. Quality designations, too, are a quick and easy guide.

If, for example, you discover that you love the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, you might seek out a bargain from close by Fixin. Likewise, Puligny Montrachet and St Aubin.

If you prefer more perfumed and less tannic wines, you may stick with the communes of Chambolle Musigny, Volnay or Vosne Romanee.

If you discover that you adore the winemaking style of certain producers, be they more rustic and savoury or more modern, using more or less new oak – stick with them, or seek out producers with a similar style.

A new up-and-coming producer you have discovered might not have hit Rockstar status (yet), making his or her wines more accessible.

A wine from a great producer from a lesser vintage frequently delivers a very pleasant surprise.

HAPPY HUNTING!

Brendan Jansen MW