Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Mac Forbes 2015 Release

Although many of you will have trouble believing me, the life of a wine taster is more often dull and tedious than exciting or fun. Having to wade through dozens of wines each week to find the gems that I can recommend is hard work.

There are however, two occasions where tasting is a joy. One is sitting down with a few friends to try some old/interesting wines from our cellars. The other is sitting down with a capable winemaker to try a cross-section of wines and discuss the philosophy behind those wines.

Falling into the second category was sharing a meal with Mac Forbes while tasting through his 2015 releases.

Mac takes a hands-off approach to winemaking, in an effort to allow the individual vineyards truly express their characteristics.

How the wines are sealed deserves a special mention. Depending on the variety, Mac is looking for the seal to aid in the wines development. As you would expect, a number of the whites and the Yarra Valley Pinot are sealed with screw caps, but two other closures are currently in use. One is a nifty cork alternative and the other is natural cork.

The use of Ardea Seal synthetic cork rather than a screw cap was dictated by the oxygen permeability characteristics, which mimic cork. These look smart, appear to seal well, and are easier to extract (when young at least). The top wines are currently sealed with natural cork, and use of this will increase in 2016.

The rationale given for the move back to cork relates to the impact that cork can have on the wine as it ages. This includes permeability, as well as the effect the cork itself has on the wine. When asked about the risks associated with using corks, Mac believes that with careful selection of the supplier, as well as rigorous testing of each batch of corks, the risk of taint can be minimised.

There is no doubt in my mind that cork producers have had to lift their game, so I will be interested to see the feedback that Mac gets over the coming years.

Whilst the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, there is also an excellent 2016 Riesling sourced from the Strathbogie Ranges. I swear I could taste the mineral composition of the soil in this wine. Racy, balanced and morish!

Chardonnay – 2015

The 2015 Yarra Valley Chardonnay is a wine that will make a few friends. Here is a wine that offers a degree of generosity to the fruit, yet has balance along with decent textural components. At $30, this represents excellent early drinking.

The Single vineyard wines offered more personality and, whilst a little more restrained, had increased depth and power. At around $50, the Hoddles Creek and Woori Yallock Chardonnays are not exactly cheap, but they do showcase the quality of Yarra Chardonnay.

Pinot Noir – 2015

Like the Chardonnay, the Yarra Valley Pinot Noir deserves to be popular. The fruit is ripe and succulent, with excellent acidity and mouth-feel. A great drink over the coming summer.

It was the single vineyard Pinots however that really showcased what Mac Forbes is trying to achieve. Crafting individualistic wines where the vineyards and climate dictate what the wines will taste like. The hands-off approach in the winery includes the use of no new oak in any of the single vineyard wines.

The Coldstream ($50) is the only wine that is made from fruit coming from flat lands in the Yarra. I really liked this wine as it combined a degree of generosity with elegance and poise. The Hoddles Creek and Yarra Junction (both $50) come from higher up in the valley, with the microclimate influencing how the wines express. For me, the Hoddles Creek was my pick and will cellar well for at least 5 – 8 years.

At the top of the range are the Wesburn and the Woori Yallock ($75). I was surprised at just how differently these two wines showed. The Wesburn was all minty with a hint of eucalypt, whereas the Woori Yallock was refined and elegant, with a purity to the Pinot fruit that no other wine in the line-up could match. A brilliant wine.

Cherubino Shiraz – 2015 Releases

Barry Weinman: November 2016

I have written previously about the magic that Larry Cherubino can work with grapes. His Rieslings and Cabernet based wines are often brilliant.

A challenge for consumers can be the plethora of different wines released from each variety. These appear under a number of different labels including Cherubino, The Yard, Laissez Faire, Avant Gardiner, Ad Hoc and Middle of Everywhere.

To make it even more confusing, there are several wines released under the Cherubino and Yard labels.

None of the above really matters when the quality of the wines are considered. Irrespective of the price-point, the wines are excellent.

Importantly, the quality of the cheaper wines can make these great bargains.

In the current tasting, the panel reviewed a cross section of the 2015 vintage Shiraz, and the wines did not disappoint.

One highlight (from a value perspective) was the 2014 Apostrophe. A brilliantly packaged, easy drinking red that is sure to please. It is sold out at the winery, but both Liquor Barons and Nicks had it available from their websites at the time of writing.

The other highlight was how the wines developed in the bottle. I left the wines on the tasting bench and the fruit continued to build and open for up to 5 days. Even after a week, they were in great nick. This reinforces their ability to age in bottle for a decade or more.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Shiraz – Cherubino – 2015 (18.7+pts – $55). Hints of vanilla and spice over dense, powerful black fruits. Tar, liquorice, plum and cedar lead on to a textured, balanced palate. The fruit gets quite chewy, yet the tannins and oak are perfectly integrated. A superbly made wine that can be drunk now with joy, but will age comfortably for a decade or two. Cherubino acacia 2015

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Acacia Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $35). Lithe and elegant, though again, there is a degree of depth to the fruit and really good mouth-feel. T he finish is quite silky, with the acid, tannin and oak all sympathetic to the fine fruit. This has medium bodied fruit, but is the most finely structured of the trio. Needs years to really open up, or an hour in a decanter and a decent steak.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). Lighter, more aromatic plum and mulberry fruit, especially on the palate. Medium weight and pretty, this is very approachable, with supple acidity and fine, tight tannins. Stylistically, this sits in-between the structure of the Acacia and the approachability of the Justin. Will be wonderful with a homemade pizza. Drink this while waiting for the Acacia.

Cherubino – Shiraz – Laissez Faire – Syrah – 2015 (18pts – $39). Pretty, vibrant fruit a real highlight. This has had a gentle touch in the winery, allowing the sour cherry fruit to shine. Elegant and supple, yet the fruit lingers and builds. The structural oak and tannins tighten things up on the finish, suggesting time in the bottle will only help.

Cherubino – Shiraz/Grenache – Laissez Faire – 2015 (17.8pts – $29). Wonderful purple colour, no doubt aided by the Grenache. This has really deep smelling peppery fruit. The palate has dark, brooding fruit along with aniseed, plum, chocolate and spice. With air, this gets quite pretty, while the supple tannins and fine oak add structure to the finish. Cherubino Apostrophe

Apostrophe – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – ‘14 – progressive reds – Frankland River – 2014 (17.5pts – $16). Supple, fragrant berries on the nose with hint of creaming soda. Delicious palate that is soft and slurpable, with gentle tannins and acid adding balance. Uncomplicated and eminently drinkable. Brilliant packaging for this wonderfully priced everyday red.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Justin Vineyard – 2015 (17.5pts $35). The most approachable and glugable of the trio of Yard wines. That said, it continued to evolve and build for a number of days.

New Release: November 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^st November 2016

This tasting provided several highlights. Brilliant value from the likes of Shingleback and Angoves, along with serious wines from Karawatta and Shottesbrooke.

Something for everyone!

Reviewed

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Pretty floral fruit on the nose. The palate is textured and chewy, the phenolic richness balanced by fine acidity. Near seamless palate transition is remarkable at this price-point. Unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). Fragrant red berries/strawberries and supple spice. The palate is fairly light bodied, but the fruit sits well within this frame. The palate transition is excellent, with just a little bit of grip on the close. Very easy to drink with a BBQ this summer, or should develop depth with a few years in the bottle. Definitely worth a look.

Shiraz

Angove – Shiraz – Long Row – 2015 (16.8pts – $10). Fragrant and floral nose. Medium bodied, with plump fruit and an approachable, gentle structure. Uncomplicated, but a decent drink.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Aficionado – 2015 (18pts – $15). Souring cherry/plum fruit is the primary focus here. Whilst the fruit is ripe and dense, the fresh acidity gives this life, allowing it to be drunk with pleasure young. The supple oak and tannins add texture to the quality fruit. Impressive, and unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Flint Rock – 2014 (17.5pts – $28). Lovely fruit on the nose, with lifted aromatics over savoury components. The palate is medium weight, with the textural/structural components adding focus. Good length, this finishes with drying tannins and acidity. A food wine, this would be at its best with roast meats and represents handsome drinking.

Karrawatta – Shiraz – Dairy Block – 2015 (18pts – $38). Reviving an old Clare Valley name. Ripe, dense and textured fruit that is really concentrated, with intense raspberry/strawberry characters. Big and powerful in the mouth, yet with decent balance and structure. I would leave this for 5 years at least, but will last for at least 15. An excellent wine!

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2013 (18.7pts – $60). A different style to those from WA, showing plum, fresh berries and mint. An impressive wine where the ripe, high quality fruit is balanced by savoury characters and refreshing acidity. There are hints of chocolate and coffee, as well as liquorice and spice. The depth of the fruit is amazing as is the structure. A powerful dense wine that will live for decades, yet will be a joy with lamb cutlets now.

Talijancich – Liqueur Shiraz – 1980 Solero – NV. (18.9pts – $65). Sweet and vibrant, yet amazingly concentrated and complex. The balance is excellent, as is the length and mouth-feel. The drying acid adds balance to the sultana-like fruit. Viscous, with enormous length, the combination of fresh and aged material makes this dangerously easy to drink. Points are irrelevant, this is liquid gold!

Felton Road 2015 New Release

Felton Road – 2015 New Release

Barry Weinman: 20^th November 2016

The chance to taste the newly released 2015 Felton Road Pinots was an opportunity too good to miss. Needless to say, the quality of the wines was outstanding.

The quality of the Chardonnays was right up there with the Pinots, and the Rieslings provided an interesting counterpoint to the styles typically produced in Australia.

N.B. This was not a blind panel tasting, so please take my points as a guide only.

Reviewed

Felton Road – Riesling – Bannockburn – 2016 (17.5pts – $39). Fresh lime juice and floral characters leap from the glass. Gorgeous, off-dry palate, with apple and rosewater flavours. The finish is long and fine, with enough acid to keep the balance. Different to a German Kabinett, but worthwhile.

Felton Road – Riesling – Dry – 2016 (18.3pts – RRP $39). More minerality here, with subdued fruit initially. The palate is bright and fresh, with steely characters to the fore. Reminds me of a Clare Riesling, though with less overt citrus characters. Builds depth and power in the glass.

Felton Road – Riesling – Block 1 – 2016 (18 – 18.5pts – $51). Restrained and taut, giving away little on the nose. The palate is off-dry (though appears less sweet than the Bannockburn), with similar apple and floral characters, though there is more depth and texture, with excellent acidity adding balance.

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – 2015 (17.5pts – $56). The nose is quite complex, with barrel ferment and lees characters over creamy oak. The palate is quite firm and structured, with honeyed fruit notes. Long, and a touch robust right now, there is a nutty minerality to the finish. Not quite the depth of the Block wines, but will develop with a year or two in bottle.

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – Block 2 – 2015 (18.5pts – $69). So much more finesse and poise than the standard wine. There are all of the worked characters, but this is more subtle and balanced. Minerality and fine acidity add to the restraint and balance. A modern reserved style that will age well for years to come. block_6_chardonnay

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – Block 6 – 2015 (18.7pts – $69). The finest of the chardonnays and very restrained and elegant. The palate is brilliant. Fine and elegant, the subtle fruit is perfectly ripe. The structural components are tightly married to the fruit, making for a seamless finish. A superb wine. Now to 8 years.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2015 (18+pts – $76). Not quite as fruit forward as the 2014, this has more savoury characters to the cherry/plum fruit. Quite earthy, with almost brambly fruit. With air, the fruit shines. The mouth-feel is supple, though the tannins provide a firm edge. Would benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir Cornish – 2015 (18.5pts – $89). Quite closed and tight. The palate is fine, elegant and structured, though the high quality fruit is somewhat suppressed. That said, there is no denying the quality or the outstanding mouth-feel and texture. This will blossom in 3 – 5 years as the cherry fruit emerges from its structural cocoon. calvert_2015

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Calvert Vineyard – 2015 (18.6pts $89). Restraint and balance are the key features. Supple, seamless, earthy notes, cherry, spice and brilliant mouth-feel. Very long and fine, this is the most refined wine to date and my pick to drink now (or in 5+ years). block_3_pinot_2015

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 3 – 2015 (18.8pts – $122). Wow, this has the balance of the Calvert, with more intrinsic depth and power to the fruit. The cherry fruit sits comfortably within the structural elements. There are earthy notes and great length, but the sublime fruit is the main focus. A wonderful wine anytime over the next 8 years. My pick of the tasting!

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2015 (18.5+pts – $122). The vibrant fruit is more overt than in the Block 3.There is inherent depth and power, yet there is silky, almost jube-like fruit on the palate. Despite being seamless, on the palate this is actually quite closed and subdued. An almost ethereal wine for the aficionados, though this may be overlooked initially.

October New Release – Mixed

Barry Weinman: 25^th October 2016

Top quality Chardonnay is one of the world’s great wines, capable of possessing depth and power, yet retaining balance and a degree of elegance. Unfortunately, it has also been expensive, particularly when compared to the best Australian Rieslings.

As the wine industry has matured in Australia, the regions that are best suited to growing Chardonnay have been identified, and attention has been given to the clones of Chardonnay planted. Simultaneously, winemakers have developed a greater appreciation for how to handle the fruit in the winery to maximize the enjoyment.

As a result, the number of high quality wines has increased dramatically, and it is now possible to find an excellent wine for a reasonable cost. Whilst high quality Riesling can be found for (considerably) less, there is a place for good Chardonnay, particularly with food.

The Flametree SRS topped this tasting and is priced sensibly given the quality. The Scotchmans Hill was a standout for value. An excellent wine that will be even better in a year or two.

In the reds, the highlight was the superb Rolling Stone Cabernet from McHenry Hohnen. Not cheap, but a world-class wine.

Reviewed

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – Wallcliffe – 2015 (18.5pts). Fine fruit on the nose, with lovely curry-leaf minerality. This continues on the palate, and reminds me of a powerful White Burgundy. Very long and near seamless, with excellent mouth-feel. Youthful, the fine acidity drives the finish at present. The stand-out wine of the tasting, deserving of the finest food. scotchmans

Scotchmans Hill – Chardonnay – 2014 (18/18.5pts – $35). A seductive wine with an evolving array of aromas and flavours including lemon, vanilla, peach, nectarine and grapefruit. Really builds presence in the glass. This took a while to open up and actually showed its best after being open for a day or two after the slight oak astringency settled back into the fruit. A lovely wine that will benefit from decanting an hour before consumption. Value for money.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.3pts). Closed, tight and fine. Powerful fruit, with grapefruit and lemon characters to the fore. Builds melon and subtle stonefruit notes with air. Very long and quite complex, courtesy of the barrel work. Needs a year or two to settle, but will be brilliant drinking. A serious wine. (Sealed with a cork).

Curley Flats – Chardonnay – Macedon Ranges – 2013 (18pts). Quite fine and elegant, but there is depth and power to the fruit, albeit in a subtle way. Finishes a little astringent, with the fine-grained oak carrying the fruit to the close. Balanced and well made, this is a modern, leaner style that would benefit from a year or two in bottle. coward_black

Coward & Black – Chardonnay – 2015 (17.8). Complex nutty fruit on the nose. Initially quite lean on the palate, though with air, the pineapple fruit and acidity is a feature. Not overly complex, but has decent length, making for a good drink. Well-made and should be good value.

Red Wine

McHenry Hohnen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot – Rolling Stone – 2011 (18.6pts – $100). Very deep smelling, the blackcurrant fruit has a cassis-like character. The palate is very powerful. The minerality, fine tannins and structuring oak provide a backdrop for the high quality fruit. Great drinking, with a degree of subtlety that belies the power. Sure to age well.

Coward & Black – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Brothers – 2011 (17.8). Decent depth to the redcurrant fruit, with hints of cedar and spice from the oak. The youthful fruit is balanced by fine tannins and texturing oak. The palate has excellent length and decent mouth-feel, though it gets a little chewy on the close, suggesting that a few years in the bottle will add to the pleasure. Smart wine. coward_black_cab

Coward & Black – Shiraz – Show Shiraz – 2014 (17.7pts). Lovely sweet fruit on the nose, with an almost floral, rose petal aroma. The palate is chock-full of plum and dark berry fruit, with licorice and spice to close. The finish is spot on, with the tannins and oak sitting nicely with the fruit.

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon – October New Releases

Barry Weinman: 22^nd October 2016

With Sauvignon Blanc, either alone or in combination with Semillon, the winemaker can have just as big an impact on the style as the terroir (vineyard location, soil weather etc.). The variations in style appear greater than with many other varietals.

Leaving the wine on its lees post fermentation (+/- stirring/batonage) as well as barrel fermentation and oak aging can impact in a number of ways. In small quantities (as little as 5% of the blend), this can add depth and texture to the wine.

As the proportion of the blend increases, the aromas and flavours can really change, moving away from the fresher, fruit-forward style to a powerful, serious wine that can show a variety of complex characters as well as obvious oak influences.

At the extreme, these wines can be challenging to drink, the minerality and secondary characters taking priority over the fruit. I prefer the middle ground, where the fruit is complemented by wonderful depth and complexity from the winemaking inputs.

In this month’s tasting, Fraser Gallop provided an excellent example of how good this style can be. The 2015 Paterre SSB has plenty of interesting characteristics, yet there is a core of quality fruit that offers immediate appeal.

In a different style, but equally enjoyable, is the Shaw + Smith. Here is a straight Sauvignon Blanc where the exuberant fruit really shines. The most enjoyable wine that I have tried under this label.

Reviewed fraser_gallop

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre – 2015 – (18pts – $35). This wine really stands out for both the quality fruit and the complex winemaking inputs. There is real depth and power here, with minerality, struck match and fresh lemon. The palate has a slightly viscous feel without being cloying. Excellent. shaw_smith

Shaw + Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.8pts). Very youthful, with a touch of retained CO2 adding verve. This has exuberant fruit and supple grassy overtones and a touch of nectarine. Good mouth-feel and decent length make for an excellent drink. Will make you want a second glass.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Great Southern – 2016 (17.5pts – $25). A fresh, lively wine with balance and poise. There are tropical fruits and gentle lantana aromas. A supple mouth-feel, perhaps aided by a touch of barrel ferment, leads on to lemony acid on the finish. Delicious.

Coward & Black – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.5pts). Floral fruit, with tropical and grassy notes. Good length and mouth-feel, with apricot kernel and nutty notes to close. Balanced and textured, suggesting a little lees work. Try it on a sunny afternoon this spring.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.2pts). Fresh and light, with grassy fruit characters and gentle nuttiness. The palate is long, with gentle zesty notes. Excellent drinking now

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Exmoor – 2015 (17pts – $18). An exuberant nose showing gooseberry, lantana, tropical fruit salad and passionfruit. The palate is fresh, with racy acid and tropical fruit lingering on the close. Not overly long, but moreish and an interesting alternative to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Riesling – October New Release

Barry Weinman: 17^th October 2016

When it comes to Australian Riesling, Grosset sits at the top of the pyramid in terms of reputation, quality and price, with the Polish Hill now sitting around $50 per bottle.

There are several producers who are challenging the quality of Grosset. Interestingly, several of them come from the Great Southern region of Western Australia (including Mt Barker, Denmark, Frankland River and Porongorups).

Cherubino instantly comes to mind, however in this tasting, it was the turn of Singlefile to shine.

The 2016 Mt Barker Riesling is nothing short of spectacular. A great wine that is a bargain at $30. Like the Polish Hill, this is delightful in its youth, yet sure to age well for a decade or more.

Straight out of the bottle, the 2016 Great Southern Riesling is a little more obvious and approachable, providing a lovely contrast to the delicacy of the wine from Mt Barker. Excellent buying at $25.

There are similarities here to the way Grosset’s Springvale compares to the Polish HiIl.

The Vickery is another noteworthy wine, with the legendary John Vickery sharing his expertise (and name) with a new generation of winemakers. Great drinking.

Reviewed singlefilesvmountbarkerriesling240pxx450px111

Singlefile – Riesling – Mt Barker – Pearse Vineyard – 2016 (18.7pts – $30). A delicate floral bouquet with citrus, talc and musk characters. The palate has latent power, and is long, supple, subtle and fine, with brilliant mouth-feel. A superb wine now, or any time over the next 15 years. Vickery Eden Valley

Vickery – Riesling – Eden Valley – 2016 (18 – 18.5pts – $26). Straight out of the bottle, this is approachable and user friendly. With plenty of air, the inherent quality shines. A fantastic wine that has classic Clare Valley characters, along with a touch of green pear. So very drinkable, yet age-worthy.

Singlefile – Riesling – Great Southern – 2016 (18pts – $25). The palest of yellow colours. Floral fruit with sherbet and musk notes. The palate is vibrant, fruit driven and very long, with the acid perfectly balanced. The finish is near seamless and very satisfying. A lovely wine that is good to go any time over the next ten years.

Swinney – Riesling – Tirra Lira – 2016 (17.9). Relatively closed initially, but there is no denying the quality. This is both supple and subtle, with fresh acidity and a steely minerality, making for a great food wine. An excellent effort that will benefit from a few years in bottle.

Residual Sugar in Riesling

Residual Sugar in Riesling

Barry Weinman: 10^th October 2015

I can’t count the number of times that I have heard someone say “I don’t like sweet wines” when given the option of a glass of Riesling, only to happily slurp down a Sauvignon Blanc with significant amounts of residual sugar.

I can only presume that they are referring to cask wines that they drank in their youth, where the variety (often Colombard or table grapes) had no relation to what was on the label, and where sugar was added in bucket-loads, to make up for the lack of any flavour in the wine). I think there may also be some confusion between sweetness and floral fruit characters.

In Australia, for several decades the vast majority of our Rieslings have been bone dry. It is actually the dryness that presents challenges to early consumption, as the acid can often appear austere in the absence of a little residual sugar to add balance.

In Germany, it has been the opposite, where wines with higher levels of natural sweetness were more highly prized, and more expensive.

In recent years, there has been a gradual shift in both countries, with Australia producing a small amount of wines with higher levels of retained sugar, and Germany producing a raft of critically acclaimed (and appropriately expensive) dry wines.

Balance is Key

For me, the key to all great wines is balance. With Riesling, it is the balance of acidity and sugar. What makes the sweet German Rieslings so fabulous is the way the residual sugar is balanced by scintillating acidity. The sweetness is noticeable, but is in no-way cloying. The fine, steely acid providing the backbone to the wine.

To illustrate the point, I sat down to a fascinating master-class hosted by Red + White, where we tasted wines where the residual sugar content increased with each subsequent wine. Whilst the sugar increased in a step-wise fashion, the acidity did not, allowing the comparison of styles.

The first wine was the 2015 Frogmore Creek (18.3pts – $27) from Tasmania. This had a modest 5 g/L of residual sugar, and total acidity was 10g/L. This is a fresh, zesty wine, with lemon and lime characters and a lovely mouth-feel. Here, the small amount of sweetness is used brilliantly to balance the acidity. A lovely, age-worthy wine.

The second wine was the 2014 Zind-Humbrecht – Turckheim (17pts) from Alsace. This is a wine that is fermented in the large old oak vats that are typical of the region. Whist the sugar increased to 6.1g/l, the total acidity dropped to only 5.1gms/l, almost half that of the Frogmore. This resulted in a wine that tasted more obviously sweet, due to the lack of balancing acidity.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Josephshöfer – Kabinett

There was no need to question the origins of the 2014 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Josephshöfer – Kabinett (18.7pts). Here, the residual sugar is much higher, at 25g/l and total acidity sits at 7.8g/l. (alcohol = 9.5%). There is beautiful floral fruit over complex minerality. The palate is quite superb, the obvious sweetness balanced by precise, focused acidity. A thrilling German Riesling!

We finished with the Felton Road Bannockburn (17.9pts) from Central Otago. This wine has a remarkable 74g/l of residual sugar and 9g/l of total acidity. This opened with floral fruit and obvious sweetness, yet the racy acidity balanced this to make a satisfying and moreish drink that tastes nowhere near as sweet as might be imagined.

If you are looking for a wine to take you out of your comfort zone, then I would strongly recommend the Reichsgaff von Kesselstatt . A brilliant wine that needs no accompaniment!

Shiraz – October New Release

Shiraz – October New Release

Barry Weinman: 1^st October 2016

The team at Xanadu continue to be in top form. This time it was a brilliant value Shiraz under the Exmoor label (new to me) that grabbed the panel’s attention.

Leeuwin Estate and Mount Langi Ghiran also provided great value drinks.

Unfortunately, the Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier was badly cork tainted. I continue to be surprised that wineries persist with using natural cork, when there are more reliable alternatives available. The Diam cork, for example, still gives the “romance” of pulling the cork, but is guaranteed to be taint-free. Then of course there are screw caps…

Reviewed

Izway – Shiraz – Bruce – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). Really interesting nose: Liquorice, spice, plum and inky fruit. This is restrained and taut, needing years for the fruit to open up. Long, fine tannins. An impressive, concentrated Shiraz.

Wynns – Shiraz – Black Label – 2013 (18.2pts). I like this wine a lot. Cool climate Shiraz that is ripe and focussed. There are red berry notes over earthy, textural components. Think plum, transitioning to blueberry. Texturing, tight knot oak and slightly dusty tannins close the fruit down initially. A very smart wine worthy of 10yrs in the cellar.

Xanadu – Shiraz – Exmoor – 2013 (18pts – $18). Lovely cooler region fruit, with white pepper and spice. On the palate the fruit is perfectly ripe and presents beautifully, the supple oak and dusty tannins adding depth and texture, without taking the gloss off the silky fruit. Near seamless, the acidity comes through on the close adding life. This wine is a bargain and will drink well any time over the next 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.9pts). This wine really stands out. Rich fruit and earthy notes, yet balanced, with excellent structure and mo uth-feel. Fine tannins and oak build, adding depth and texture. Excellent value.

Mount Langi Ghiran – Shiraz – Billi Billi – 2013 (17.8pts). Quite dense and savoury fruit that is open and accessible. The tannins kick in at the end, leaving the finish drier than the Sahara dessert. Everything in place, this needs a hearty stew to bring out its best. Should be good value too.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Margaret River – 2015 (17.5pts). Another excellent effort from Sandalford. Menthol, herbal notes and spicy white pepper on the nose. The palate is relatively forward with the fruit the main focus. The tannins, acid and oak build on the finish. A good drinking mid-price red that could also cope with a few years in the cellar.

Bordeaux – 2005 Overview

Barry Weinman: 14^th September 2015

Jeff Burch, proprietor of Burch Family Wines (Howard Park, Madfish etc), recently hosted a tasting of a cross-section of 2005 Red Bordeaux, in conjunction with Sommeliers Australia. The nine wines came from a number of the major communes, in an effort to demonstrate the stylistic differences that can be expressed across the region.

The 2005 vintage is considered to be one of the great vintages of the last 20 years, with both the left bank and right bank wines excelling. The inclusion of the 2005 Abercrombie from Howard Park provided a new world comparator, to provide perspective.

In a line-up of superb wines, there were a few that shone just that bit brighter. Tasting the Pichon Baron was akin to a religious experience. A profoundly beautiful wine. This was closely followed by the Ducru and Rauzan Segla.

Jeff generously donated the wines for this tasting, for which I am very grateful.

Reviewed

Chateau Quinault – L Enclos – St Emilion – Grand Cru – 2005 (18pts). Pretty floral and blueberry fruit over savoury, earthy notes. The palate is fine and very long. The blueberry fruit gives way to dusty/earthy notes and drying tannins. Near seamless and very enjoyable.

Chateau Gazin – Pomerol – 2005 (18.5+). Lovely richness and intensity, with dark fruit characters tending to blackcurrant. The palate is complex and earthy, yet remains fine, elegant and silky, with supple tannins and a seamless palate transition. Very long.

Howard Park – Abercrombie – 2005 (18.4). Whilst the style of this wine is somewhat different, there is no denying the quality. More primary fruit, with pretty floral aromas giving way to red berries, mint and cedar. Very long and tight, this needs years to hit its best. (75% Mt Barker/25% Margaret River).

Chateau Montrose – St Estephe – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (NR). Perhaps not the best bottle. The nose is quite earthy and rustic, yet there was great fruit hinted at. The palate is silky, fine and delicate, more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux.

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou – St Julien – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (18.8). A lovely wine. Elegant, refined and enchanting. Violets and floral berry fruit, with depth and complexity. The palate is outstanding! Pretty fruit, elegance, balance and length, the souring acidity adding drive.

Chateau Les Charmes Haut Brion – Pessac Leognan – 2005 (18.7). What a wine! More overt power and darker fruit than the Ducru. The palate is textured, taut and almost gravelly, yet the tannins are refined and polished. Remarkable palate transition and presence.

Split from Haut Brion in the 16^th century, this is a small estate (Production est. 2000 cases) is principally planted with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Chateau Pape Clement – Pessac Leognan – 2005. (NR). Whilst this wine scored 99 from Parker, today was not its day (Not the best bottle perhaps).

Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron – Pauillac – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (19.3). Lovely perfume, with blueberries and blackberries set against serious fruit weight and power. The palate is nothing short of spectacular. Such depth and power, yet balanced and refined, with the tannins, acid and oak all melding into the fruit to provide a textural treat. Lingers for what seems like minutes. Drinking this wine was a near religious experience.

Chateau Rauzan Segla – Margaux – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (19). Earthier, with liquorice, spice and cloves over dark berry fruit. The spice notes follow on the palate, with tarry notes. This is the most elegant of monsters, the fruit building and evolving in the glass for some time. May live longer than me!