Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Residual Sugar in Riesling

Residual Sugar in Riesling

Barry Weinman: 10^th October 2015

I can’t count the number of times that I have heard someone say “I don’t like sweet wines” when given the option of a glass of Riesling, only to happily slurp down a Sauvignon Blanc with significant amounts of residual sugar.

I can only presume that they are referring to cask wines that they drank in their youth, where the variety (often Colombard or table grapes) had no relation to what was on the label, and where sugar was added in bucket-loads, to make up for the lack of any flavour in the wine). I think there may also be some confusion between sweetness and floral fruit characters.

In Australia, for several decades the vast majority of our Rieslings have been bone dry. It is actually the dryness that presents challenges to early consumption, as the acid can often appear austere in the absence of a little residual sugar to add balance.

In Germany, it has been the opposite, where wines with higher levels of natural sweetness were more highly prized, and more expensive.

In recent years, there has been a gradual shift in both countries, with Australia producing a small amount of wines with higher levels of retained sugar, and Germany producing a raft of critically acclaimed (and appropriately expensive) dry wines.

Balance is Key

For me, the key to all great wines is balance. With Riesling, it is the balance of acidity and sugar. What makes the sweet German Rieslings so fabulous is the way the residual sugar is balanced by scintillating acidity. The sweetness is noticeable, but is in no-way cloying. The fine, steely acid providing the backbone to the wine.

To illustrate the point, I sat down to a fascinating master-class hosted by Red + White, where we tasted wines where the residual sugar content increased with each subsequent wine. Whilst the sugar increased in a step-wise fashion, the acidity did not, allowing the comparison of styles.

The first wine was the 2015 Frogmore Creek (18.3pts – $27) from Tasmania. This had a modest 5 g/L of residual sugar, and total acidity was 10g/L. This is a fresh, zesty wine, with lemon and lime characters and a lovely mouth-feel. Here, the small amount of sweetness is used brilliantly to balance the acidity. A lovely, age-worthy wine.

The second wine was the 2014 Zind-Humbrecht – Turckheim (17pts) from Alsace. This is a wine that is fermented in the large old oak vats that are typical of the region. Whist the sugar increased to 6.1g/l, the total acidity dropped to only 5.1gms/l, almost half that of the Frogmore. This resulted in a wine that tasted more obviously sweet, due to the lack of balancing acidity.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Josephshöfer – Kabinett

There was no need to question the origins of the 2014 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Josephshöfer – Kabinett (18.7pts). Here, the residual sugar is much higher, at 25g/l and total acidity sits at 7.8g/l. (alcohol = 9.5%). There is beautiful floral fruit over complex minerality. The palate is quite superb, the obvious sweetness balanced by precise, focused acidity. A thrilling German Riesling!

We finished with the Felton Road Bannockburn (17.9pts) from Central Otago. This wine has a remarkable 74g/l of residual sugar and 9g/l of total acidity. This opened with floral fruit and obvious sweetness, yet the racy acidity balanced this to make a satisfying and moreish drink that tastes nowhere near as sweet as might be imagined.

If you are looking for a wine to take you out of your comfort zone, then I would strongly recommend the Reichsgaff von Kesselstatt . A brilliant wine that needs no accompaniment!

Shiraz – October New Release

Shiraz – October New Release

Barry Weinman: 1^st October 2016

The team at Xanadu continue to be in top form. This time it was a brilliant value Shiraz under the Exmoor label (new to me) that grabbed the panel’s attention.

Leeuwin Estate and Mount Langi Ghiran also provided great value drinks.

Unfortunately, the Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier was badly cork tainted. I continue to be surprised that wineries persist with using natural cork, when there are more reliable alternatives available. The Diam cork, for example, still gives the “romance” of pulling the cork, but is guaranteed to be taint-free. Then of course there are screw caps…

Reviewed

Izway – Shiraz – Bruce – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). Really interesting nose: Liquorice, spice, plum and inky fruit. This is restrained and taut, needing years for the fruit to open up. Long, fine tannins. An impressive, concentrated Shiraz.

Wynns – Shiraz – Black Label – 2013 (18.2pts). I like this wine a lot. Cool climate Shiraz that is ripe and focussed. There are red berry notes over earthy, textural components. Think plum, transitioning to blueberry. Texturing, tight knot oak and slightly dusty tannins close the fruit down initially. A very smart wine worthy of 10yrs in the cellar.

Xanadu – Shiraz – Exmoor – 2013 (18pts – $18). Lovely cooler region fruit, with white pepper and spice. On the palate the fruit is perfectly ripe and presents beautifully, the supple oak and dusty tannins adding depth and texture, without taking the gloss off the silky fruit. Near seamless, the acidity comes through on the close adding life. This wine is a bargain and will drink well any time over the next 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.9pts). This wine really stands out. Rich fruit and earthy notes, yet balanced, with excellent structure and mo uth-feel. Fine tannins and oak build, adding depth and texture. Excellent value.

Mount Langi Ghiran – Shiraz – Billi Billi – 2013 (17.8pts). Quite dense and savoury fruit that is open and accessible. The tannins kick in at the end, leaving the finish drier than the Sahara dessert. Everything in place, this needs a hearty stew to bring out its best. Should be good value too.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Margaret River – 2015 (17.5pts). Another excellent effort from Sandalford. Menthol, herbal notes and spicy white pepper on the nose. The palate is relatively forward with the fruit the main focus. The tannins, acid and oak build on the finish. A good drinking mid-price red that could also cope with a few years in the cellar.

Bordeaux – 2005 Overview

Barry Weinman: 14^th September 2015

Jeff Burch, proprietor of Burch Family Wines (Howard Park, Madfish etc), recently hosted a tasting of a cross-section of 2005 Red Bordeaux, in conjunction with Sommeliers Australia. The nine wines came from a number of the major communes, in an effort to demonstrate the stylistic differences that can be expressed across the region.

The 2005 vintage is considered to be one of the great vintages of the last 20 years, with both the left bank and right bank wines excelling. The inclusion of the 2005 Abercrombie from Howard Park provided a new world comparator, to provide perspective.

In a line-up of superb wines, there were a few that shone just that bit brighter. Tasting the Pichon Baron was akin to a religious experience. A profoundly beautiful wine. This was closely followed by the Ducru and Rauzan Segla.

Jeff generously donated the wines for this tasting, for which I am very grateful.

Reviewed

Chateau Quinault – L Enclos – St Emilion – Grand Cru – 2005 (18pts). Pretty floral and blueberry fruit over savoury, earthy notes. The palate is fine and very long. The blueberry fruit gives way to dusty/earthy notes and drying tannins. Near seamless and very enjoyable.

Chateau Gazin – Pomerol – 2005 (18.5+). Lovely richness and intensity, with dark fruit characters tending to blackcurrant. The palate is complex and earthy, yet remains fine, elegant and silky, with supple tannins and a seamless palate transition. Very long.

Howard Park – Abercrombie – 2005 (18.4). Whilst the style of this wine is somewhat different, there is no denying the quality. More primary fruit, with pretty floral aromas giving way to red berries, mint and cedar. Very long and tight, this needs years to hit its best. (75% Mt Barker/25% Margaret River).

Chateau Montrose – St Estephe – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (NR). Perhaps not the best bottle. The nose is quite earthy and rustic, yet there was great fruit hinted at. The palate is silky, fine and delicate, more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux.

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou – St Julien – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (18.8). A lovely wine. Elegant, refined and enchanting. Violets and floral berry fruit, with depth and complexity. The palate is outstanding! Pretty fruit, elegance, balance and length, the souring acidity adding drive.

Chateau Les Charmes Haut Brion – Pessac Leognan – 2005 (18.7). What a wine! More overt power and darker fruit than the Ducru. The palate is textured, taut and almost gravelly, yet the tannins are refined and polished. Remarkable palate transition and presence.

Split from Haut Brion in the 16^th century, this is a small estate (Production est. 2000 cases) is principally planted with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Chateau Pape Clement – Pessac Leognan – 2005. (NR). Whilst this wine scored 99 from Parker, today was not its day (Not the best bottle perhaps).

Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron – Pauillac – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (19.3). Lovely perfume, with blueberries and blackberries set against serious fruit weight and power. The palate is nothing short of spectacular. Such depth and power, yet balanced and refined, with the tannins, acid and oak all melding into the fruit to provide a textural treat. Lingers for what seems like minutes. Drinking this wine was a near religious experience.

Chateau Rauzan Segla – Margaux – 2^nd Growth – 2005 (19). Earthier, with liquorice, spice and cloves over dark berry fruit. The spice notes follow on the palate, with tarry notes. This is the most elegant of monsters, the fruit building and evolving in the glass for some time. May live longer than me!

Giant Steps no longer an Innocent Bystander

Giant Steps no longer an Innocent Bystander!

Barry Weinman: 14^th September 2015

The first vintage at Giant Steps was made by Steve Flamsteed back in 2003, and he has been making the wines ever since. The Innocent Bystander label was established as a second brand to give the winery critical volume, given the limited production of the top wines.

Innocent Bystanders has been a runaway success, with production rapidly increasing to the point where the winery is now at full capacity, leading to production being expanded off-site. The success is such, that there is still demand to justify increasing production further. Moscato production alone is estimated to be at 60,000 cases.

Following an opportune approach from Brown Brothers, the decision was made to sell off Innocent Bystanders, to allow the opportunity to rationalise and focus on Giant Steps. The aim is to organically grow Giant Steps with the introduction of the Yarra Valley range sitting below the single vineyard wines.

A second label is being introduced (Wild Run) to provide an everyday quaff for cellar door customers.

Whilst the Single Vineyard wines have received critical acclaim for a number of years, I was interested to see how the Yarra Valley range stacked up. So it was great to sit down with Steve over a quick lunch and look through some of the wines.

For me, the Pinot and Chardonnay were the standouts. Excellent wines that are available at a fair price.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so points are only an indication.

Reviewed

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $45). Fine and creamy, with lemon, minerals, stone fruit, vanilla and spice. The palate is very long, rich and textured, yet remains remarkably fine and seamless. Made from the P58 clone of Chardonnay, off 26 y/o vines, the vineyard leased since 2005.

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18pts – $35). A touch broader and more open than the Tarraford. The palate is more linear, with taut, lemony acid adding drive and length. The texture builds in the glass. Does not have quite the same depth as the Tarraford initially, but this should build nicely in the bottle.

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2015 (18.5+pts – $50). Pretty floral fruit, with cherry and raspberry characters. The palate is superb, with silky texture, supple mouth-feel and great length and depth. Candied notes add interest, as does a touch of toast from the oak. (60% whole bunch fermented).

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). This wine was quite closed on the nose initially, whilst the palate showed earthy notes, with cherry fruit and texturing oak. The mouth-feel however was a highlight. With air, this transformed. The pretty berry fruit really opened up on both the nose and palate, and was quite delicious. This will be great with an hour or two in a decanter, or a couple of years in the cellar.

Giants Steps – Shiraz – Syrah – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). This has really pretty fruit that is perfumed, floral and spicy. Lovely mouth-feel, with vibrant fruit giving way to savoury, earthy flavours. An excellent food wine, as the acidity drives the finish.

Giants Steps – Merlot – 2015 (17.5pts $35). From the Sexton vineyard. This is a ripping drink. The fresh, pretty berry fruit is complemented by elegant tannins and fine acidity. Why wait?

September New Release – Part One

Barry Weinman: 3^rd September 2016

A couple of wines really impressed in our recent tastings.

The 2015 Petaluma Chardonnay is a delicious wine that is a little more generous than some of the wines presently coming out of Victoria and is all the better for it.

In the Cabernets, Fraser Gallop remains in top form whilst the wines from Woodlands and Cumulus offer value. The Cumulus Cabernet in particular is a stand-out, given that it is currently available for $17.50 online from the cellar door.

Chardonnay

Petaluma – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.3pts – $53). Quite rich and generous, with creamy oak characters, courtesy of barrel fermentation . There is fresh pineapple fruit combined with lemon and lime flavours. Great length, supple mouth-feel and balancing acidity. Delicious.

Lenton Brae – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18pts – $60). Tropical fruits and lemon brulee. Supple and balanced, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. It is the mouth-feel and texture that really sets this apart. Long and fine, with an excellent palate transition. The oak adds depth.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2013 (18.5pts – $50). Cooler climate Cabernet of some note. Supple blackcurrant fruit and menthol notes paired to fine tannins and linear acidity. Slightly chewy, though with near seamless palate transition, this needs 10 years to really hit its straps.

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.3pts – $70). A fine wine here, with cherry and spice notes. Blackcurrant, plum, coffee/earthy complexity and cedary oak lead to a texture that is a little chewy. Long, this evolves in the glass. Needs 10 years to open up.

Cumulus – Cabernet Sauvignon – Climbing – 2014 (18pts $24). Pretty red fruits on both the nose and palate. Vibrant, lively and elegant, with succulent, ripe fruit and savoury hints. Delicious and a bargain. ($17.50 from the winery).

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – 2014 (18pts $26). Complex nose with cedar, blackcurrant, cassis and spice. The palate is quite dusty and earthy, with the quality fruit sitting within a framework of supple tannins and oak. Approachable, but sure to improve with a few years in the cellar. Great value.

Cumulus – Merlot – Climbing – 2014 (17.7pts – $24). Lighter colour, and a lighter style. A pretty, medium bodied wine of some charm. The red fruits are the defining character, with strawberry and plum notes. The finish is soft and supple, making for an excellent drink now. ($17.50 from the winery).

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon – Lady Douglas – 2015 (17.5pts). Vibrant berry fruit leaps from the glass. The palate is forward and approachable, with a seam of graphite-like tannins running the length of the palate adding texture and depth. A touch astringent, so will marry well with food anytime over the next 5 years.

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2015 (17.5pts – $26). A fairly straightforward wine with cherry and dark berry fruit over mint and eucalypt typical of Margaret River. The palate is long and flavourful with fine dusty tannins building on the finish. Really approachable now, but short term cellaring is also an option.

Howard Park – Scotsdale & Leston – 2014

Howard Park – New Release Reds

Barry Weinman: 28^th August 2016

Howard Park is in the enviable position of having access to excellent vineyards across both Margaret River and the Great Southern. I have written previously about the fact that, despite the fame of Margaret River, the wineries’ top wine (Abercrombie) is primarily made from fruit sourced from the Abercrombie vineyard in Mt Barker (situated in the Great Southern).

It is the next level down in the range where the two regions are showcased. The Leston wines are from Margaret River and the Scotsdale from the Great Southern (Mt Barker). Available as both a Shiraz and a Cabernet, the wines are uniformly of very high quality.

Over the years, I have rated the Scotsdale slightly ahead of the Leston and, with the soon to be released 2014 vintage, this perception has been reinforced. Made by the talented Janice McDonald both ranges have produced lovely wines, but both the Cabernet and the Shiraz from Scottsdale have a slight edge.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2014 (18.5pts – RRP $46). Serious fruit and winemaking here. Blackcurrant, spice and a touch of cedar to open. The palate is structured and firm with fine tannins. Excellent line and length, though this needs a few years for the fruit to open. Great potential. With air, this wine blossomed showing delicious fruit and wonderful balance. My pick of the range.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2014 (18 – 18.5pts – $46). Very pretty fruit that is varietally correct. Lifted and perfumed, the elegant red fruit gives way to savoury/spicy notes, and are framed by silky tannins and oak. The palate is fine and supple, with superb balance and excellent length. Will cellar well for at least 10 years.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2014 (18pts – $46). Structured, firm and closed. The fruit is medium bodied, with hints of red plum and spice. The palate is firm, structured and very long, yet everything is in balance. Will reward time in the cellar.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2014 (18pts – $46). Redcurrant, cherry and spicy aniseed aromas. The palate is balanced and silky, with more liquorice and spice notes. The oak and tannins sit well with the medium weight fruit. A very smart wine that needs a few years to open up.

New Release – Shingleback and Friends

New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st August 2016

Angove is one of the largest landholders in McLaren Vale, with over 400 acres of vineyards. Surprisingly, over 30% of the vineyards are certified organic, with the rest of the vineyards in the process of being converted.

This must make Angove one of the largest (if not the largest) producers of organic grapes in Australia. The outcome is a range of very smart wines under the “Organic” label. Here, it was the turn of the Shiraz/Cabernet to shine. An excellent effort that represents great drinking given that it can be picked up for $14 or less!

Shingleback have released yet another great value Shiraz under the Red Knot label.

Whilst a little more expensive, the wines from Wolf Blass (Grey Label), Claymore (GSM) and Shingleback (The Gate) really stood out. These are wines that can be enjoyed now, yet will comfortably cellar for a decade. They also represent value in their own way.

At the top end, watch out for the D-Block Reserve wines from Shingleback. These are statement wines that exude class and refinement. Great intensity and power, yet with a degree of elegance that is disarming. Bravo!

Reviewed – White

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2015 (17.7pts). Fresh aromatics with tropical and herbal notes. Grassy, herbaceous fruit on the palate with plenty of zesty acidity, decent texture and great mouth-feel. Long and refreshing, this will be great served chilled in the warmer months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Miamup – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). More tropical fruit here along with crunchy green pear. Light and fresh, with gentle aromatics and a soft, supple mouth-feel aided perhaps by a touch of barrel fermentation. Lemony fruit flavours linger. Very easy to drink.

Reviewed – Cabernet

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.6pts – $55). Impenetrable colour. Very concentrated fruit with blackcurrant and a touch of cassis. The palate is remarkably restrained, with the fruit the primary focus. That said, the quality oak and polished tannins build on what is a very long finish. Much like Penfolds 707, this is more refined, supple and elegant than might be expected, especially given the region’s reputation for Shiraz.

Claymore Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – O – Bittersweet Symphony – 2014 (17.5pts – $25). Menthol and spice, along with dense blackcurrant fruit. Despite being closed, this shows excellent balance, with the mouth-feel aided by very fine tannins and oak. Long, this needs 10 years, but drinking well now. A fine wine.

Reviewed – Shiraz and Blends

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts – $55). Whilst the fruit on the nose has lovely sweet berry characters, there is a savoury component that really adds interest. Tremendous depth and intensity of fruit, prodigious length of flavours, latent power and gravelly tannins. Liquorice, spice, souring acidity add interest, while the oak sits comfortably with the fruit. Will live for decades (cork permitting) but will also do justice to the finest steak you can get your hands on.

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). A rich and textured wine, with spicy, almost inky fruit. The fruit here is powerful and taut, with fine acidity and tannins shutting down the palate somewhat. The oak adds depth, but is not intrusive. A fine wine that will easily live for 20 years. Great value at under $35/bottle.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2012 (18.5pts – $35). Vanilla, coffee, cinnamon, mint and just a touch of menthol, over sweet, ripe fruit. The palate is bright, with the fruit carrying the length of the palate. The acidity builds as do the fine, chalky tannins. A lovely wine, though 5 – 10 years is required for it to reach its best. 9 Gold Medals.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2010 (18.5+pts – $150). From 100 year old vines, this is fragrant, perfumed and pretty, with red berries and cherry fruit. Mint, along with a delicious streak of liquorice on the palate adds depth. A complex, ripe and skilfully crafted wine with no rough edges. Will live for decades if you are patient.

Claymore Wines – GSM – You’ll Never Walk Alone – 2015 (18.3pts – $20). Quality fruit. Fennel seed, cinnamon, vanilla seed and spice, leading to a palate that is supple, fine and elegant. The mouth-feel and balance are highlights. Near seamless, with great length. A supple, great value wine that can be enjoyed over the next decade.

Patritti – Shiraz – Lot 3 – Single Vineyard – 2013 (18.2pts – $30). Intense and powerful, this has ripe fruit with chocolate and coffee aromas, typical of McLaren Vale. The palate is chewy and textured, the tannins dominating the fruit somewhat, leading to a drying finish. A BIG wine that needs years or a decent steak.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2014 (18pts). Plum, mulberry, cherry, silky spice. A super wine with great length. The flavours build, and I like the balance here; this is a wine with no rough edges, making for a great drink. Should also age well.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2015 (17.9pts – $16). Pretty fruit on both the nose and palate with a hint of white pepper. Medium bodied, vibrant, succulent and juicy. A ripper of a wine that will be perfect with a bowl of pasta and is ready to go right now. A bargain!

Aravina Estate – Shiraz/Tempranillo – The A Collection – 2014 (17.8pts – $23). An unusual blend for Margaret River, this has concentrated, mid weight fruit. Opens with red berries, and plum notes, over cedar, spice and talc like tannins that coat the tongue and suppress the fruit somewhat. Good oak/acid balance. A very good wine that will happily take 5 years in the cellar.Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2015 (17.6pts – $15). Vibrant, lively, fresh red berries with cherry, licorice and subtle spice. No obvious oak influences, yet the tannins frame the fruit nicely. An excellent drinking everyday red that will be just as happy on its own as with a lamb roast. Another great value wine under this label.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.5pts – $25). Lighter style, focusing on savoury rather than overt sweet fruit. That said, the fruit quality is very good, as are the length and mouth-feel. A youthful, high quality wine that will provide excellent drinking over the next 5 years.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – 3 Lions – 2014 (17pts – $25). Really plummy fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with little in the way of oak. Very fine tannins add depth, but allow the fruit to shine. This is a riper, less complicated st

August New Release – Reds

New Release

Barry Weinman: 14^th August 2016

Every now and then, a wine comes along that is absolutely irresistible straight out of the bottle. On this occasion, it was the Angove Family Crest GSM that blew the panel away. Absolutely delicious and a bargain at $22.

The Patritti GSM showed the same basic characters, but presented them in a package that was a little more structured. Again, brilliant value.

To round out the value stakes, the Singlefile and Leeuwin Estate Cabernets at around $25 represent excellent buying. Wines that can be consumed now, or cellared for a couple of years.

Reviewed

Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $22). The fragrant, pretty floral Grenache fruit expresses with plum, cherry and cinnamon spice. The palate is vibrant and fresh, the delicious fruit shimmering against a backdrop of texturing oak. The tannins are fine, adding to the lovely mouth-feel/texture. Good length and depth on the finish too. Supple and very moreish, this is a wine that needs no accompaniment. Everybody needs to try this wine!

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Frankland River – 2014 (18pts – $25). Excellent value, medium-bodied red. Cool climate fruit characters on both the nose and palate, with menthol, spice and fine tannins. This is elegant and balanced, with near seamless plate transition. The length of flavours is noteworthy. Supple and approachable now, yet will happily cellar for a few years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2014 (18pts). Lighter, cooler region style, with menthol, herbal notes and red berry fruit. The palate is fine and long, with real depth. Another wine with near seamless palate transition. Acid rather than tannins drive the finish. Lingers.

Patritti – GSM – Gloria – 2013 (18pts – $18 on sale from the winery). Lovely fruit with real depth. Fragrant and floral, with spice and liquorice notes. The palate has fresh fruit, complemented by fine tannins and a touch of vanillin oak. Excellent length to close. A little more structured than the Angove, this is an impressive wine. A brilliant value wine that would be great with roast beef, or with 5 -10 years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2013 (18pts – $43). Really quite fine, with supple, elegant fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, restrained and taut, yet the fruit lingers. The tannins and oak add depth, but in no way dominate. Opens to show mulberry and spice. Excellent wine.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2012 (17.7pts). I like the balance here. Relatively forward berry fruit is nicely matched to savoury, cedary oak and fine tannins. Not overly dense or complicated, thus allowing the fruit to shine. Decent length to close. Great short-term drinking.

Penfolds Tawny

Australian Fortfied Wines Part 4

Penfolds Tawny (Port).

Barry Weinman: 7^th August 2016

The red wines of Penfolds need no introduction. Many people will be less familiar with their fortified wines, which is a pity.

From Club Tawny through to Grandfather, the wines represent fantastic value.

Club Reserve can be found for $15 and provides genuine pleasure. The Father Tawny balances complexity with drinkability brilliantly. The Grandfather is a luxury that, coming in a 750ml bottle, is more accessible than many of life’s finer things.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Tawny – Club (17pts – $15). Fresh and light, with obvious sweetness and moderate viscosity. Slightly chewy texture and decent length, carried by fresh acidity. Obviously younger material, but this is a very enjoyable wine and a bargain. 750mls

Penfolds – Tawny – Club Reserve – Classic (17.5pts – $20). Darker colour than the standard, tending to orange. More complexity and depth too. Whilst still sweet, there is greater balance and structure. Excellent length to close. Great value and worth the extra five dollars! 750mls

Penfolds – Tawny – Father – Grand Tawny (18.5pts – $38). Colour not dissimilar to the Club Reserve, but there is more Rancio characters on the nose. The palate is where this really expresses, with density and power to the fruit. The sweetness builds, but is offset by lovely acidity. The balance between old and new material is noteworthy. A lovely wine, with great length, this is actually easier to drink than the Grandfather. Great value in 750ml bottle.

Penfolds – Tawny – Grandfather – Rare (18.8pts – $85). Darker colour. The intensity on the nose is a stand-out, with obvious Rancio characters to the fore. The palate is intense and powerful, the flavours washing over the tongue in waves. Very old base material has been brilliantly handled. Immense length with drying Madera characters on the finish. One sip is almost enough! 750mls.

Australian Fortified Part 3: Other Styles

Barry Weinman: 7^th August 2016

The Talijancich Pedro is nothing short of spectacular. Expensive, but beautifully packaged. One sip is almost enough.

In a very different style is the De Bortoli Black Nobel. An amazing wine made from botrytis Semillon.

Talijancich – Pedro – Rare – Julian James – Blend No 3 (19pts – $70). Almost opaque: burnt orange, tending to olive. Very intense, powerful nose, the complex aged material balanced by rancio and spirit notes. The palate is intense, dense, long and unctuous, but not cloying. An amazing wine that has an ethereal nature, the spirit and fruit in perfect harmony. Stunning. 350 mls

De Bortoli – Black Nobel – 10 y/o (18.6pts – $38). Another opaque, very dark wine – staining the glass amber. Here the Rancio and resin notes are more apparent, with raisins and fruit-cake aromas that are really quite fragrant. Sweetness is obvious, with musk and spice notes. The acid adds life and keeps the whole package together. Impressive and impactful, a unique use of Botrytis Semillon. 500mls.

Lamont’s – R.S.W. Liqueur (18.5pts ). A blend of Pedro and Muscat (Navara). Khaki meniscus. Lovely old material, with rancio and spirit balanced by intense fruit. The palate is thick and lush, yet retains balance via the acidity. The spirit notes add vibrancy. Middle of the road style and delicious. A blend that started in the early 1980’s from a single barrel. Fortunately, there are now several barrels released each year. 375mls

Lamont’s – Pedro (18pts). Whilst there is no mention on the front label, this is from the 2005 vintage. A lighter amber colour. More Rancio, more sweetness, more obvious. Viscous and thick, there is so much of everything, yet avoids being cloying. Perfect poured over ice-cream! 375mls