Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 19^th December 2015

With wine tasting, as in life in general, some days are better than others. A bracket of Clare Valley Riesling for example, is always going to be infinitely more enjoyable than tasting Barossa Pinot Noir.

Then there are the really good days. Days when you feel privileged to be given the opportunity to taste the wines presented. Days when the most challenging part of the tasting is bringing yourself to spit the wine out after each sip…

And so it was that I sat down to taste a cross-section of some of Western Australia’s most highly acclaimed Cabernets. Naturally, there can only be so many wines included in a line up like this, so some of the wines that I have rated highly recently were not included here. This includes the likes of the Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Moss Wood (from the Moss Wood Vineyard).

Overall, the wines were outstanding, and the points allocated in this blind tasting arbitrary. A score of 18.5 could easily have been 19, with the minor variations in points indicating my ever-so-slight personal preferences between the wines.

It will come as no surprise that the wines from Margaret River showed so well. It may surprise some though that my top wine (just) was Larry Cherubino’s Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the best Australian Cabernets that I have tasted in recent years.

From a value perspective, the Xanadu Cabernet was a clear standout. A superb wine at a sensible price!

Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2013 (19). The profile here is different to the Margaret River wines, but all the better for it. Supple, ripe fruit is the focus, with a core of minerality. The palate is silky and feminine, with fine (souring) acidity and supple oak and tannin structure. The textured finish is very long and incredibly fine. May turn out to be one of the greatest wines released from Frankland. (RRP $110).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.8). A slightly different style to recent releases, where the fruit is more accessible. Fresh blackcurrant aromas with hints of mint and herbs. The palate is refined and silky, the ripe fruit set against a backdrop of silky oak and tannins. The acidity brings the whole package to life. A tremendous wine that will be long-lived. (RRP $100).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2013 (18.7). Really deep smelling fruit, with spice and spearmint over ripe mulberry notes and a hint of pepper. The palate is dense and structured, yet remarkably refined. The length and texture truly outstanding. There is a silky mouth-feel supported by very supple oak and superb tannin management. A brilliant wine that will live for decades. (RRP $75).

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2013 (18.7). Red berries to the fore, with gentle earth and tar aromas. The palate is relatively lean, with the bright acidity masking the fruit. Very fine oak and tannins dominate the finish, serving to close down the fruit, though a bit of air helped the fruit express better. A very impressive wine that is firmly in the mould of fine left-bank Bordeaux. (RRP $120).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Project U12 – North Block – 2011 (18.6). Very closed and restrained nose. The palate only hints at what is to come over the years. Silky oak combines with oh-so-fine tannins. The texture is outstanding, even if the fruit needs time to emerge. With air, there is a degree of plushness that is most attractive. A lovely wine that has taken a step up from the 2010, which was a pretty smart wine in its own right. (RRP $90).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – Reserve – 2013 (18.6). Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, mint and hints of fresh herbs. This wine sits firmly in the middle-ground, with fine fruit the focus. The structural components frame the fruit, while the acidity carries the finish. Ideally needs 5 years to hit its straps, but a super wine that will give great drinking pleasure any time over the next 15 years. A brilliant follow up to the 2012 and good value at around $50.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.5+). A totally seductive wine that is silky, supple, soft and textured. The fruit is actually quite closed, but the balance is so good that you are left wanting another mouthful. Fruit characters expressed include plum and mulberry, with a spice-lift courtesy of the fine oak and firm tannins. Superb now, or in 20 years, and great value to boot. (RRP $37).

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.3). Lovely fruit combined with slick winemaking makes for an excellent drink. Blackcurrant, spice, hints of menthol and eucalypt all unfold on the palate. The mouth-feel is superb, with wonderful poise and balance. Very fine oak frames the fruit perfectly, with the acid and tannins adding depth. A relative bargain at $35.

Good Value New Releases

Barry Weinman: 10^th December 2015

The panel found a variety of wines over the last few weeks that we either great value drinking, or really interesting. Okay, so the Flowstone are not cheap, but they are interesting wines.

Here are some of the highlights.

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2012 (18). The fruit is quite accessible on the nose, with peach and nectarine giving way to pineapple. The palate is fine and elegant, with the supple oak closing down the fruit at present. Give it another year or two to open up. (RRP $55).

Hollick – Chardonnay – The Bard – 2014 (17.5). Fairly gentle fruit on the nose, with taut grapefruit and blood orange aromas. The palate works a treat, with pineapple, stone fruit, creamy oak, and good length. The citrus-like acidity really drives the finish. Delicious white for this summer with or without food. (RRP $18).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Run Free – 2014 (17). Restrained nose and palate, with neutral aromas and flavours. With air, the gentle stone fruit characters come to the fore. The mouth-feel is a highlight. Give it a year or two for the lemony fruit to open up. (RRP $25).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – N1 – 2012 (17.5+). Delicious fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and supple, with gentle structure and acid. Lacks the ultimate depth of the very best, but this is a lovely drink. From the Coal River Valley in Tasmania. (RRP $38).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – Coal River Valley – 2013 (17). Hints of earth and minerality over dark berry fruit notes. More structure to the fruit on the palate, with red currant, berries, licorice and spice. Slight char from the oak adds complexity. Good value drinking (RRP $26).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18+). Lovely depth and density to the fruit here. The nose is subtle and fine, with hints of sweet berry and subtle spice. The palate is drying and savoury, the core of fruit perfectly balanced by the oak and fine tannins. Near seamless and very long. (RRP $60).

Cross Stitch – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. (17). Ripe and delicious fruit. Plump, fruit-forward palate with cedary oak, fine tannins and just enough grip to make the finish interesting. The fruit is not overly dense, but this will be good easy drinking over the summer months.

Shottesbrooke – GSM – 2014 (17). A crowd-pleasing wine that has gentle plum and mulberry fruit over soft tannins and rounded acidity. Made for early consumption, this is a great alternative to have with roast beef. (RRP $20).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2013 (18). Seductive nose that combines dense, earthy fruit with hints of licorice. In the mouth, the fruit is dense and ripe, without appearing heavy. Slightly chewy tannins and oak add interest to the long finish. Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. (RRP $23).

Achaval Ferrer

For the wine-lover who has everything.

Barry Weinman: 4^th December 2015

According to Gaston William, the Sales Director for Argentinian winery Achaval Ferrer, the winery was started in 1999 by the Achaval and Ferrer families in conjunction with Roberto Cipresso. Hailing from a winery in Montalcino, Cipresso brought vinous expertise to the venture while the Achaval and Ferrer families injected the capital.

Situated in Mendoza, The three main vineyards that supply Malbec for the winery are over 100 years old, with a fourth planted in 1999. Malbec is clearly the focus, with single vineyard wines made from each of the old sites.

The aim is to express the differences between the vineyards, with a minimal intervention approach taken in the winery . There is also a stated aim of capturing old-world elegance, whilst retaining a core of ripe fruit.

Yields are low, with the single vineyard wines in the range of 12 hectolitres per hectare.

The wines have been highly acclaimed from the likes of Parker and the Wine Spectator.

Having tried a cross-section of their wines, they are clearly of very high quality, though there is a catch. The wines are very expensive in Australia. The entry level Malbec and Cabernet are around $65 per bottle, with the range-topping Single Vineyard wines sitting above $300.

At these prices, the wines have not exactly flown out the wholesaler’s door, which is good news for consumers. The wines currently available in Australia have a couple of extra years’ bottle age, which has allowed the wines to open up a little.

If you are looking for a gift for a wine-lover who has everything, then this may be your answer.

Reviewed

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – 2013 (18). Inky, deep colour in the glass. Intense plum-like fruit on the nose with spice and dusty, earthy notes. The palate is dense, soft, supple and intense, with fine tannins and excellent length. The mouth-feel is a highlight. From a blend of vineyards, this spent 9 months in older oak. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (17.5). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is vibrant and juicy, with soft, supple tannins and gentle acidity. With a dusty texture to close, this is balanced, long and a delight to drink now. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2009 (18.5). Very intense fruit on the nose, with a lovely earthy undercurrent courtesy of the Malbec. Again, there is plum and spice. The palate is intense and long. The fruit is elegant and refined, and there is a lovely supple mouth-feel. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the finish. So easy to drink, yet will last for some years. . ($135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2011. (18.3) The fruit here is more vibrant and lifted. The palate has dusty yet intense fruit, with hints of fennel and aniseed. There are slightly chewy tannins on a long, supple and very fine finish. (4000 cases made; $135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – Finca Altamira – 2011. (18.7) This is really refined and silky. There is more purity to the fruit, with the earthy notes sitting firmly in the background. The palate is taut and refined and the fruit subdued. The finish is very elegant, as the oak, tannins and acid are incredibly refined and the balance superb. (1000 cases made; $350).

Geographe Wine Show

Geographe Wine Show – 2015

Barry Weinman: 29^th November 2015

The Geographe wine region covers an area of Western Australia south of Mandurah, down to Busselton, at the edge of the Margaret River region. It includes Harvey, Ferguson Valley, Donnybrook, Capel & Busselton.

With various microclimates, it is not surprising that there are a variety of styles produced. Along with the more mainstream varieties, a number of wineries are exploring alternative varietals. Temperanillo in particular seems to be doing well.

Following on from the Geographe Wine Show, the Geographe Wine Association held a tasting of a number of the trophy and medal winning wines.

I chose to focus (somewhat predictably) on Chardonnay and Cabernet, along with Temperanillo. Overall, the quality of the wines was very high, reflecting that these were some of the best in show.

Wine of the show went to Talisman for their “Gabrielle” Chardonnay. Most successful producer went to Smallwater Estate.

Vineyards at Talisman*

Chardonnay

Talisman – Chardonnay – Gabrielle – 2014. (RRP $35). Lovely mineral and spice notes, over precise and elegant fruit on the nose. There is a healthy dose of curry-leaf minerality that adds depth. That said, there is intrinsic power and structure here. The palate is full and dense, with grapefruit-like acidity that keeps the balance spot on. Textured and dense, this will build for a few years in the bottle (awarded aGold Medal, Best Chardonnay & Wine of Show).

Smallwater Estate – Chardonnay – 2014. (RRP $25). Quite delicate and refined fruit, with strong peach influences. The palate is supple and fresh, with grapefruit, melon and lemon-like acidity driving the finish. Oak sits firmly in the background. A modern, refined wine of real charm and great value too (awarded a Gold Medal).

52 Stones – Chardonnay – Barrel Select – 2014. A traditional style, with a big, rich and buttery nose. The palate is rich and generous, with no rough edges. There is enough acid to balance the power and richness of the peachy fruit. This gives way to a touch of toast and astringency, courtesy of the oak (awarded a Gold Medal).

Ferguson Falls Wines – Chardonnay – 2014. (RRP $27). Quite an elegant style with gentle stonefruit and creamy notes. The palate is bright and fresh, with peach, nectarine, grapefruit and supple oak. The finish sees the oak add grip and texture, without adding overt flavours. Now to 5 years (awarded a Silver Medal).

Cabernet Sauvignon

St Aiden Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (RRP $30). Opens with a lovely core of ripe blackcurrant fruit over aniseed, and cedary spice. The palate is only medium bodied, perfectly matching the fruit profile. There is a touch of graphite and chalky tannins on the long finish. A savoury treat that is good to go now, but will develop for at least 5 – 8 years (awarded a Gold Medal & Best Cabernet of Show).

Ferguson Falls Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 ($27 ex winery). Quite a seductive nose, with soft, approachable fruit. The palate is fresh and fleshy, with gentle grip and structure adding texture. With air, the depth really builds, complemented by fine tannins and oak. Give it time in the glass, or a few years in the cellar (awarded a Gold Medal).

Mandalay Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – Persimmon Paddock – 2014. Fragrant and fine fruit on the nose. The palate is fruit driven, showing blue and blackberries and mulberry highlights, yet the fine structure builds on a finish that is long and supple. Hints of cedar and earthy notes to close. This is an elegant, smart wine that has latent power (awarded a Gold Medal).

Smallwater Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Rob’s Block – 2014. (RRP $30). Very similar to the 2013, though the fruit here is more accessible. The palate has fresh, vibrant fruit that is well suited to the winemaking. Whilst the red berry characters are the main focus, the finish gradually gives way to fine tannins, and a lick of savoury oak. A medium bodied wine that is worth a look. Now – 5 years (awarded a Gold Medal).

Moojelup Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thompsons Block – 2013. (RRP $24). Fresh and succulent red currant fruit that is quite delicious. The palate shows tobacco, spice and vibrant fruit. Little in the way of oak apparent, allowing the fruit to shine. The finish is brought together by fine, talc like tannins. A delicious wine that will go a treat with a BBQ this summer (awarded a Silver Medal).

Willow Bridge Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Coat of Arms – 2013. Hints of plum and spice on the nose. I like this wine for the way it balances ripe fruit with savoury, almost earthy characters. A dense wine that will be well suited to a hearty meal in the cooler months, or with a decent steak off the grill (awarded a Silver Medal).

Temperanillo

Bakkheia – Temperanillo – Aequitas 2014. Licorice and tar to the fore on the nose. The palate is chock full of ripe fruit, though this is in no-way overblown. The fresh acidity, supple tannins and oak all serve to keep the finish vibrant. The dense, chewy fruit builds structure with air. This is a powerful wine that would match roast lamb beautifully (awarded a Gold Medal/Best Red Wine/Best WA Alternative Red Wine).

Fifth Estate – Temperanillo – 2014. (Awarded a Gold Medal).

Green Door Wines – Temperanillo – El Toro – 2014. A savoury, fruit driven nose. The palate is delicious. The vibrant fruit has a distinctly savoury tone that is ready made for food. Cherry and menthol fruit is supported by supple wine making. A delicious wine that is my pick for immediate consumption with food (awarded a Bronze Medal).

Shiraz

Ferguson Falls – Shiraz – 2013. Licorice, leather and spice over plum and aniseed. The palate is dense and ripe, with excellent structure and mouth-feel. Closer to the Barossa in style than Margaret River, the finish is long and powerful, with a dusting of fine tannins and acid. Great drinking (awarded a Gold Medal).

* Image courtesy of Talisman Wines

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 18^th November 2015

Wines made with Pinot Noir are some of the most challenging to make. That said, there are a few winemakers in Australia who have mastered the art, including the likes of Phillip Jones at Bass Philip and Mac Forbes.

Rollo Crittenden produced an excellent range of wines in 2012, from a vintage that was widely acclaimed across the region. The release of the 2013/2014 wines presented an excellent opportunity to get a further glimpse at how the wines at Crittenden Estate are progressing.

Barrel Hall at Crittenden Estate*

What struck me about all the wines reviewed was their drinkability. From the entry level Geppetto, to the powerful Zumma, there was an immediacy to the wines that was attractive and moreish. With the exception of the Geppetto, all the wines will benefits from a few years in bottle, but they are drinking well now.

Reviewed

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2014. (17). A touch closed and subdued on the nose initially. The palate is refined and elegant, with pretty fruit balanced by fine tannins and supple oak. Cherry and menthol come to mind. Soft and supple, this is an uncomplicated wine that is good drinking. (RRP $24).

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2014 (17.7). Whole bunch notes on the nose, over sour cherry fruit. The palate is taut and muscular, with fine tannins and texturing oak shutting down the fruit. Everything is in place, but this needs a year or two to hit its straps. ($34 from the Winery)

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Kangerong – 2013 (17.8). A heady nose that combines perfume with fresh red berries and a jube-like lift. The palate is soft and plush, with soft tannins, quality oak and gentle acidity. Great drinking now. ($40 from the Winery).

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – The Zumma – 2013 (18). Powerful, high toned fruit on the nose. The palate has dense fruit, with souring cherry and satsuma plum overtones. Slightly chewy tannins add textural oak adds interest. A serious wine that is drinking very well now, but will cellar for at least 5 years. ($57 from the Winery).

* Images courtesy of the Crittenden Estate Website: http://www.crittendenwines.com.au/

New Release

Barry Weinman: 10^th November 2015

There were a number of highlights across this week’s New Release tastings. From the precise and delicate Howard Park Riesling to the sheer power and intensity of the Pernot Belicard Puligny, there is something here for everyone. Having said that, none of the wines are exactly cheap.

The Pinots from Wither Hills are worthy of singling out for their diversity of styles. The Benmorven is pure and precise, whilst the Taylor River is funky and delicious.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2015 (18). Lovely fresh fruit on the nose, though in a restrained style. The palate is floral and aromatic, with refreshing acidity to close. A very fine wine, with lime juice over a core of Nashi pear. Excellent length and the minerality builds. (RRP $34).

Silvan Bzikot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – Blanc – 2013 (17). A middle of the road style, where good quality fruit has been well handled, with little in the way of oak. Not overly intense or complicated, but a very enjoyable drink. The acidity really brings the palate together on the close. ($40 from Lamont’s Cottesloe).

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – Wilyabrup – 2013 (17.8). A really interesting wine from a region not known for Pinot. Opens with ripe, succulent fruit over sweet vanillin notes. The palate is vibrant and delicious, with the fruit the main feature. Fragrant and elegant, this builds cherry notes with air. Finishes with refreshing acidity and fine tannins. (RRP $65).

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Benmorven – 2011 (17.9). High fruit quality, made in a serious style. Dark, powerful fruit on the palate, with a touch of cocoa over plum and black cherry fruit. Fine, though persistent tannins underscore the quality of the fruit. The finish is long and fine, with supple tannins/structure. Enjoyable now, but will be better in 5 years.

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Taylor River – 2011 (17.7). Really interesting wine. The nose is packed with minerals and spice. There is even a curry-leaf aroma. The palate is supple and refined, with spicy red fruits over souring acidity and tannins. The fruit gets quite earthy and textured (perhaps a touch of Bret). The purists might object, but this is a wine full of character and my pick of the tasting to drink now.

Special Occasion Wines

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 1er Cru – Les Perrieres – 2013 (18.5++). Fantastic power and intensity here. Pineapple, curry leaf, stone fruit, minerality and a touch of oak all express on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise, with the fruit characters carrying the length of the palate. Grapefruit-like acidity combines with minerals and hints of toast from the oak on the finish. Impressive. (Approx. $220).

Domaine Bzikot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2013 (18.3). Impressive fruit weight on the nose and palate. Powerful, intense and mouth-watering. Taut, razor-sharp acidity balances the rich fruit perfectly. Long and complex, this really needs a couple of years to fill out. (RRP $90)

Cloudburst

Barry Weinman: 4^th November 2015

Cloudburst may be the most famous winery you have never heard of. They might not be well known, but they are making some of the most expensive wines to come out of Margaret River.

The man behind the label is Will Berliner. Will hails from Mayne in the north-east of the USA, and has a varied background, most recently being a film-maker. Given the costs of establishing an operation like Cloudburst, Will was obviously successful.

Will’s connection to Australia, and wine in general is a relatively new phenomenon. Wills partner is Australian, and it was while he was on a holiday that he fell in love with Australia, and Margaret River in particular.

Photo Courtesy of Cloudburst Winery

After a few years of looking for the right location, the family relocated to Margaret River as a lifestyle decision, unrelated to wine. The location of the former cattle property clinched the deal, and the Berliners ended up with 100 hectares of farmland, which included 40 hectares of native bush.

Starting with stripped pasture, Will gradually built up the soil health, using organic and biodynamic principles.

The initial plan was to grow avocados but logistical challenges led to planting grapes, given the clearly evident affinity of the region to vines.

As a non-wine drinker, Will started researching and got completely hooked, taking an almost spiritual approach to the vineyard and wine. Will speaks with reverence on the establishment of the vineyard, as well as how he learned from others in the region.

This is a small operation. There are currently 1.2 hectares under vine, of which 0.5 hectares are in production! The first vines were planted in 2005, closely planted in short rows and small blocks. The first vintage was in 2010, with the wines being made at Woodlands, with the oversight of Stuart Watson.

Due to the family’s connections to the USA, the wines ended up on the wine lists of some of New York’s finest restaurants, which may go some way to explaining why the wines are the most expensive. It is only now that a local distributor has been appointed (The Drink Well Philosophy).

Photos Courtesy of Cloudburst winery

Reviewed

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2014. Very refined and elegant with hints of perfume and lanolin. The pristine fruit is the primary focus. The palate has excellent structure, with lemon, grapefruit and a touch of zest. The finish is almost chewy and textural. The acid is really polished and fine.

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2013. More complex and developed on the nose than the 2014, this is really attractive and interesting. A touch linear in the mouth initially, but the finish really fleshes out, showing grapefruit, and a touch of phenolic richness. Again, the acid is really fine, supporting the fruit, and helping to integrate the near seamless palate. Lemony fruit to close.

Cloudburst – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. Very complex and deep smelling. Menthol, blackcurrant and shades of eucalypt all meld into an alluring nose. The palate is fine and linear, with a clear minerality running from front to back. There is an almost graphite-like textural component. The supple acid and tannins combine with the fine-grained French oak to suppress the fruit somewhat on the finish. Give it some air or 5 – 10 years in the cellar. Bordeaux-like. 1,688 bottles made.

Cloudburst – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012. Really interesting nose, with the minerality that is all about white pepper and Australian mountain pepper. This gives way to a core of ripe fruit. A lovely expression of Margaret River Cabernet. Fine and taut, with blackberry fruit over supple spice. The slightly chewy tannins add to the overall package, making this an excellent drink now or in 10 years.

Cloudburst – Malbec – 2013. Excellent purity of fruit on the nose. The palate shows ripe red fruits, plum, spice and textural tannins. Opens up to show mint, menthol and redcurrant that is plump and ripe, with a cedary oak lift. A succulent, delicious wine that is drinking brilliantly now. 4% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cloudburst – Malbec – 2012. More restrained. Fine, elegant, balanced. Silky and near seamless. The oak and tannins add texture and vibrancy to the finish, with fine acids carrying the finish. Will cellar well for a decade or more, but is delicious now. Becomes quite chewy with air. 422 Bottles made

Riverland Clonal Project

Barry Weinman: 1^st November 2015

The Riverland Clonal Project has set out to identify the grapevine clones that are most suitable for the Riverland. The project is trying to identify vines that produce high quality wines efficiently. Factors include:

Water efficiency
Crop size and consistency
Grape/wine quality
Commercial viability

Photo courtesy of the RVTG

Background

The Riverland Clonal Project is run by the Riverland Viticultural Technical Group (RVTG), a sub-committee of Riverland Wine. The RVTG includes growers, winery representatives and technical members who collaborate on a variety of projects aimed at benefiting the region.

The Program is funded by Wine Australia as part of the Regional Extension Program.

The initial vines were planted 5 years ago, primarily covering Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. In total 96 clones were planted, all on the same rootstock. The project has since expanded to include other varieties that may be particularly suited to the warm, dry conditions of the Riverland.

At first glance, Chardonnay might seem like an interesting choice for what is a very warm region. It is worth highlighting that the Riverland produces 40^% of Australia’s Chardonnay.

Interestingly, the Riverland is also the biggest producer of organic wine in Australia, which is providing a much-needed boost in profitability for some growers, given that the returns can be as much as 4 times that of grapes grown non-organically.

Water

Water conservation is a priority for the region. The cost of irrigation strips any profitability out of production for many growers. According to the RVTG:

Water use differences are more influenced by the root-stocks rather than the clones. Most of the recent redevelopment has been on water efficient root-stocks such as Ramsey and Ruggeri 140. When these vines are well managed, the vigour is controlled and high quality wines can be produced with little water.

Almost all vineyards in the Riverland are now irrigated with drip irrigation, and use soil moisture monitoring to ensure that the water use efficiency is as high as it can possibly get.

Photo courtesy of the RVTG

Results

Three years ago, the project started to produce wines from the various clones to look at the results. The wines were all made at a contract winery in Victoria (DPI) in 50kg parcels. For each grape variety, all fruit was treated in the same way. With Chardonnay for example, the grapes were picked at 13.5% Baume, fermented in stainless steel and saw no oak.

Going forward, the winemaking will be brought in-house, to be made by Melanie Kargas, winemaker for the RVTG. Picking times will be refined to bring down the level of alcohol and focus on purity of fruit. This would make the test wines more representative of where the market is going.

At this early stage, what is clear is that the different clones produce very different profile wines. This will help winemakers to select clones that best complement the style of wine that they are striving to produce.

The one variety that really stands out is Merlot, with broad recognition that some of the test clones are superior to those that are used commercially in the region.

Chardonnay

Vintage 2015

The wines tried showed a remarkable diversity in style, from restrained and austere, to rich and expansive. Clearly the Riverland is capable of producing quality Chardonnay with careful clonal selection.

Clone 96: Floral notes, but with a core of minerality. The palate is rich and expansive, showing lemon, melon and grapefruit acidity, with a creamy finish.

Clone 95. Muted, tight fruit on the nose. The palate is all pineapple and citrus, but the finish is quite muted.

Clone 76 AR. Creamy, peach-like fruit on the nose. Big, bold flavours in the stone fruit spectrum, with lovely lemony acidity.

ENTAV 809 AR. Pretty, floral fruit that justifies the “Muscat” tag. Continues on the palate with a mouth-feel and acid that is not dissimilar to Sauvignon Blanc. Bright acidity.

Clone 548. A very balanced profile, with floral fruit leading to grapefruit and melon. Sits very much in the middle ground.

ENTAV 1066. Peach, citrus, nectarine, grapefruit, melon. There is a lot going on here and the drive on the finish is noteworthy.

Merlot

All grapes were picked at 13.8 Baume, received minimal skin contact and no oak. Acid was adjusted to 3.3pH in all wines and no malolactic fermentation was allowed due to the small batch size.

A couple of the wines here came across as a little warm. Melanie will look to adjust the Baume and introduce malolactic fermentation in subsequent years, to get a better idea of how each clone is performing.

D3V14. Plump and plummy fruit on the nose, with herbal, menthol and red berry characters. Gritty tannins carry the fruit nicely. Trying this, it is easy to understand why Merlot is so popular with some consumers.

8R. Less floral and more subdued than D3V14. Some graphite and tar notes add interest. The palate is a little overcooked, but the structure is noteworthy. A more refined/balanced wine with cassis and leafy notes.

ENTAV 181. Pretty fruit. Perfumed, yet mineral like, with decent structure and mouth-feel. A very balanced wine that will stand-alone well.

Q45-14. Decent concentration and depth to the fruit on the nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate, yet with excellent structure. Savoury, though the herbal tannins are a little green.

ISV F6V4. Muted, lacks vibrancy or depth.

3 Italy. Pure, varietal fruit with clarity and vibrancy. Red currant and blueberry fruit, with fine tannins. A pretty wine that suffers from being a little over-ripe.

Non-Mainstream Varieties.

Yalumba – Vermentino – 2014. Vibrant aromas with a savoury edge. Precise fruit that, whilst not overly concentrated, is pretty and satisfying. The pithy, drying finish adds to the charm. Very refreshing.

Unico Zelo – Fiano – 2015. Lovely Muscat-like fruit, with sherbet and delicate spice. The palate is vibrant and textured. Perfumed fruit continues on the palate, with musk-like notes and Turkish Delight. A delightful drink. (Basket pressed, wild ferment – at temperatures up to 40 degrees. Irrigation turned off at flowering, and no acid adjustment made).

Amato Vino – Bele – 2015. Really savoury with an almost saline lift to the nose. This is really interesting. Spice, with brine-like characters. This is a savoury, complex wine that will partner richer food dishes really well.

Whistling Kite – Montepulciano – 2014. Lovely cherry fruit, with savoury tar and spice. The palate is really structured and the tannins prodigious, but very fine. Will be a treat with a steak now, but a few years will see this open up nicely.

Cirami – Lagrein – 2014. Almost Shiraz-like, with dark plum-like fruit on both the nose and palate. This is a dense, powerful wine that will appeal to those who like a big red. Bring on a decent steak.

Champagne – Master Class

Barry Weinman: 26^th October 2016

The Comité Interprofessionnel Du Vin De Champagne (CIVC) is the trade association that represents both grape growers, and producers of Champagne. The CIVC has two major roles:

Control of quality. This includes grape yields, permitted varieties, vineyard designations, dosage etc.
The CICV has a big role in promoting the “special” qualities of Champagne to the media and the wider public.

There are a number of activities run to support this, including the Champagne awards and a number of tastings.

I attended the Perth leg of their 2015 Champagne – Master Class series. Three previous Champagne award winners were on hand to give insightful background on the wines, as well as thoughts on the wines themselves.

The tasting was cleverly designed to showcase the variety of styles that are produced in the Champagne region. One way to increase demand is to demonstrate that Champagne has a role beyond an aperitif, and is able to be consumed throughout a meal.

It was made mention that Champagne must surely be the most versatile wine, given that there are styles to suit all occasions.

I agree with this in theory, but for me, Champagne is about sharing with friends at the start of a gathering. I can think of no other wine that so perfectly sets the mood for the rest of the evening (or breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea).

Reviewed

Deutz – Brut – NV. (18). A fine, elegant nose that has poise. There is a creamy note, with only gentle lees aromas. Apple and lemon zest comes to mind on the palate. Quite delicate red fruits linger on a linear palate. Owned by Louis Roederer, the base wine is from the 2010 vintage.

Bruno Paillard – Brut – NV. (17.8). Fresh, vibrant fruit with intrinsic power. The palate is taut, fine and elegant, with depth and grace. The red fruit notes opening up on a finish that lingers. Balanced, this is a very easy wine to drink and deserves to be popular. Disgorged in 2013, with a blend of Chardonnay 45%/Pinot Noir 33%/Pinot Meuniere 22%. The two years in bottle post disgorgement adds to the richness. The 1^st bottle was affected by cork taint, this review is based on the second.

Pol Roger – Blanc de Blanc – 2004. (18.5+). Restrained and delicate nose. A precise, taut, lean and angular palate, with apple, citrus and nectarine. A long and fine wine that really needs a few years to open up, or serve with freshly shucked oysters now. Dosage = 8gm/l. 9 years on lees.

Louis Roederer – Rosé – 2009. (18.5 – 19). Made by the saignee method. Palest salmon colour. Delicate strawberry and red fruits on the nose and palate, with a hint of brioche. Latent power, but the acid drive confers life and vitality. Excellent length, the fruit lingering to the close. A very fine Champagne that is drinking beautifully despite its relative youth. Chardonnay 62%/Pinot Noir 38%.

Roederer is one of the largest owners of vineyards in Champagne, (240 hectares) allowing them to grow much of their own grapes.

Pol Roger – Rosé – 2006. (18.5 – 19). A complex, powerful nose. Cherry, strawberry and red currant fruit. The palate is compact, yet powerful, with dense red fruit characters, length, and fine acidity. The residual sugar balances the palate perfectly, making for a meal in itself. Seamless palate transition, the fruit lingers for what seems like minutes. Super stuff.

Made in the addition method. Dosage = 10.5gm/l, 6.5yrs on lees. (50% of fruit from own vineyards)

Louis Roederer – 2008. (18.5 – 19). A Very pale straw colour. Very lean and racy, with taut, aspirin like minerality and fresh acidity. Zesty and fine. This is a wine that is crying out for a few years in the cellar to allow the fruit to uncoil and the structure to settle. Lemony acid to close. As this warms in the glass, the depth and structure of the fruit really becomes apparent.

Pinot Noir 70%/Chardonnay 30%, oak fermentation, lees stirring.

Charles Heidsieck – Brut Reserve – NV. (18). Opulent fruit on the nose. The palate is rich, but perfectly balanced, with brioche and coffee notes. The finish is gentle and complete, though the fruit builds in the mouth. After tasting the richness of this wine, it is understandable why it was served last. An excellent drink.

Remarkably, 60% of this wine is from the 2007 vintage, whilst the remaining 40% is made up of reserve wine of between 10 and 15 years age. Dosage =10gm/l, 6 years on lees.

New Release

Barry Weinman: 23^rd October 2015

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Six Hundred Above – 2013 (17.7). Initially, there is subtle stone fruit on both the nose and palate. There is excellent length, and the fruit weight builds with air, complemented by supple oak. This is refined and elegant, allowing for consumption now or in five years. (RRP $32).

Mount Horrocks – Riesling – Corton Cut – 2015 (17.8). (RRP $ 35). Musk and rose petal to open, with pear skin and sherbet highlights. Long and intense, the balance here is the key. The fine acidity is well matched to the sweetness, leaving the finish fresh and alive. Try it with a crème brûlée or simply poached fruit.

The Yard – Riesling – Botrytis – 2013 (17.5). Golden colour. Intense fruit on both the nose and palate, with refreshing acidity to balance the sweetness. This is viscous and luscious, with decent length and mouth-feel. A crowd-pleasing wine that will accompany salted caramel ice-cream with aplomb.

Moss Wood – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Botrytis – 2012 (17). Intense apricot stone fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and quite intense, with hints of almond. Not overly complex, but a decent drink.