Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Red Burgundy

Red Burgundy – Part Two

Barry Weinman: 10^th February 2016

The panel looked at a few of the Red Burgundies imported by Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

With a number of producers and villages represented, there are a variety of styles available. They vary in price and quality, but are worth trying. If John Jens is in the restaurant, you may be able to try one or two by the glass.

Reviewed

Domaine Des Beaumont – Pinot Noir – Morey Saint Denis – 1er Cru – Les Millandes – 2013 (18.5+). Closed on the nose. The palate is dense and powerful, though it needs some time for the fruit to build into the structure. A masculine wine, with cherry, plum and real purity to the fruit. Impressive. (RRP $180).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grands Epenots – 2012. (18.3). (RRP $200). Quite deep smelling, with floral notes and hints of roast meats. There is depth and power to the fruit. The palate is long, dense, savory and powerful, with supple cherry and spice. Superb drinking now, but will age well in the short term.

Domaine Bzikot – Pinot Noir – Volnay – 2013 (18). (RRP $80). Bright and fresh, with vibrant fruit and acidity. Mouthwatering and succulent, this is long and expansive. Builds in the glass. Good Value! Crying out for roast duck or other rich dishes.

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 6^th February 2016

When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, either alone, or in combination with Semillon, I prefer the styles that are loosely modeled on the white wines from Bordeaux.

Typically a portion of the blend is fermented in barrel and then left on lees to gain texture and complexity. This may only be 5% – 20% of the total blend, but it is enough to add depth and texture to the final wine.

The 2013 Wallcliffe by Cape Mentelle is an excellent example, and worth seeking out.

Semillon is rarely made on its own in Margaret River. After trying the 2015 Moss Wood, it is clear that it is capable of making fine wine, albeit in a different style to those made in the Hunter Valley.

The commercial reality is that blends are easier to sell than straight Semillon. Vasse Felix, for example have stopped production of their excellent example.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle– Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2013 (17.8). Pineapple and tropical notes on the nose over complex barrel ferment/lees characters that suit the fruit perfectly. The flavours match the nose precisely, with bright acid and textural components carrying the finish. Delicately handled. (RRP $45).

Moss Wood – Semillon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (17.5). Lovely nose with a touch of lantana and grassy fruit. Bright palate with lemon myrtle and crunchy apple. The long, savory finish is complemented by complex barrel-ferment characters. I like this style and it works brilliantly with food. (RRP $38).

Chateau Martinon – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Entre-Deux-Mers – 2014 (17.2). Lemon Brulee and home made lemonade on the nose. Really refreshing and interesting, with honeysuckle and gentle spice. Long, supple, mouth-filling and delicious.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – Western Australia – 2014 (17.2). Smart wine. There is degree of density to the lemony fruit and a touch of viscosity. Long, chewy, textured and mouth-filling. (RRP $31).

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Cooler region fruit, with grassy/herbaceous notes. Passionfruit and gooseberry on an approachable palate with decent texture. Hints of barrel fermentation, with refined acidity to close. A smart wine.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Textbook example. Refreshing and bright, with just enough texture to make it really enjoyable. (RRP $25).

Chardonnay

Chardonnay – New Release

Barry Weinman: 31^st January 2016

John Streicker, a New York based entrepreneur, has gradually been building a stable of older vineyards across the Margaret River region. This culminated in the purchase of Clairault winery in 2012. Bruce Dukes who had been making the Streicker wines at Naturaliste Vintners, was entrusted with the production of Clairault wines following the acquisition.

I recently reviewed the Streicker Shiraz and was impressed by the quality of both the fruit and winemaking. The Chardonnay also proved to be an excellent wine.

There were a number of other excellent wines reviewed including the great value Bond Road Chardonnay from Hollick. This is a wine that is drinking a treat now.

Ultimately, the wines from Flametree (SRS) and the Arivina were my top picks, though both would benefit from some time in the cellar.

Reviewed

Arivina Estate – Chardonnay – Wildwood Ridge – Reserve – 2014 (18.5). Very fine, high quality fruit on the nose, showing supple peach and nectarine. Tight grained oak on a palate that is very long, yet quite restrained. A lovely drink, with mouth-watering grapefruit acidity driving the finish. (RRP $55).

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – 2014 (18.5+). Barrel ferment characters on the nose that express as struck match and just a hint of curry leaf. The complex palate is full of grapefruit and melon characters, with taut acid. The oak is very fine (expensive) and adds depth to the finish. A superb wine. (97 Pts from Halliday). ($56 from Dan Murphy).Streicker – Chardonnay – Ironstone Block – 2012 (18.2). Complex aromas with hints of struck match, minerals and creamy lees notes. Pineapple fruit sits underneath. The palate is powerful and very long. The smoky notes from the oak complementing the fruit and lees work well. A bigger style, but also very very good. (RRP $41).

Cherubino – Chardonnay – 2014 (18+). Supple and fine, with stonefruit over citrus and melon notes. Long, the grapefruit acidity and tight knit oak define the finish. Needs a couple of years to settle down, but will be long lived and gain complexity along the way.

Grosset – Chardonnay – Piccadilly – 2013 (17.9). A more restrained style, with fresh fruit and acid. Quite modern, the winemaking influences present more as textural components rather than overt flavours. Long, with grassy, melon and grapefruit flavours, with a touch of smoke to close. Delicate and balanced, but this needs time to show its best (and score higher points). (RRP $55).

Note: A bottle of 1998 Grosset Chardonnay was drinking superbly recently.

Hollick – Chardonnay – Bond Road – 2013 (17.5). Creamy, with complex nutty notes. The fruit is quite rich and accessible on the palate, with decent texture and lemony acid. There is good length and hints of toast on the finish. Excellent drinking now.

New Release Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 24^th January 2016

When the temperature is nudging 40° C, tasting Shiraz and blends is not the easiest task, as keeping the wines cool (around 20 degrees) can be a challenge.

This is also an issue for drinking red wines in general in summer. A decent steak on the BBQ deserves a good quality wine, but the temperature at which the wine is served at can markedly alter the way the wine tastes.

As the wine warms up, the alcohol and sweetness can become more obvious, whilst the fruit can take on stewed characters.

Typically, I like to drink my red wines at “cellar” temperature, which is around 18° – 20° C. The balance and structure seems to be at its best around this point. Much cooler and the fruit characters can become quite subdued.

Even so, once poured, the wine quickly warms up in the glass.

There is no perfect solution. For this tasting, whilst the wines left the cellar at the right temperature, by the time they were served, they were a touch warm. Thirty minutes in the bar fridge did just the trick, bringing the fruit into focus.

At home, I will put the bottle and decanter in the fridge for up to an hour before serving. The wine will be a little too cold when first poured, but will quickly warm up to an appropriate temperature. I also only decant part of the bottle initially if there is only a couple of us, so that the remainder stays cool.
Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Mt Lofty Ranges – 2014 (18). Rich, peppery, fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is polished, silky, generous and plush, yet the balance is spot on, courtesy of the well-judged acidity. The fruit is concentrated, plump and round, with no rough edges. A wine that is perfectly suited to drinking now, or with a few years in the bottle. Delicious. (RRP $42).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2013 (18+). Lovely fruit over gentle oak and cinnamon/spice. This is a lighter bodied style, with excellent balance and poise. Silky mouth-feel adds to the appeal. Very fine and long, a delight to drink now, or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $43).

Streicker – Shiraz – Bridgeland Block – Syrah – 2012 (18). The nose is complex and savoury. Ripe fruit on the palate in a medium bodied style, which gets quite fragrant with air. Sweet fruit to close. Concentrated fruit with cherry ripe/coconut hints to close. . Layered, the finish is very long, but needs a few years to open up. A highlight of the tasting, this is under the Clairault umbrella (the Streicker family own Clairault and several prominent vineyards in Margaret River. (RRP $43).

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Gravel Pit – 2014 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose, with plum and licorice. The palate is balanced and smooth, with vibrant fruit and supple winemaking. The tannins build, combining with the firm oak to shut down the fruit slightly on the close. Give it up to 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $30).

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Dragonfly – 2014 (17.5). A delicious, good value wine with bright red fruits. The oak is evident, but not intrusive. Was at its best after sitting on the tasting bench for a couple of days, so may well benefit from a few years in the cellar. Do not serve too warm. (RRP $20).

Lindeman – Shiraz – Gentleman’s Collection – 2014 (17). An unusual wine, and one that was hard to judge. An altogether richer style, the sweet plump fruit is ripe and delicious with hints of chocolate. The addition of a small amount of fortified wine makes an impact, though the alcohol is only 14%, so it must be a very small amount. The sweet fruit on the palate has a touch of residual sugar, suggesting this could be served slightly chilled. (RRP $22).

Bargain Champagne

Barry Weinman: 20^th January 2016

Our “house” Champagne (the one that is always in the fridge in case a friend pops in) has varied over the years. Pol Roger has featured regularly; particularly when it’s has been on special closer to $50. The Pol Gessner has also featured, based on how well the wine has performed in masked tastings. The fact that it can be purchased for $35 has added to the appeal.

Our current “go to” wine is the Pierre Gimonnet – Cuvee Cuis – 1er Cru, a Blanc de Blanc of superb quality from a highly rated grower. I was amazed to find this advertised for $34 at 1^st choice and would encourage everyone to try a bottle. Being 100% Chardonnay, it is a leaner, racier style that might not suit everyone.

Whilst houses try to keep their NV Champagnes consistent from year to year, there may be subtle variations from year to year, reflecting the quality of the base and reserve wines. With this in mind, I thought it time to review some of the Champagnes that are currently available in Australia for under $50.

When we unmasked the wines at the end of the tasting, there were a couple of big surprises. The first was the Piper Heidseick. The cheapest of the Grand Marques, but a wine of charm and style. This excellent wine is available for under $40.

The biggest surprise however, was the Henri Laurent NV. This is produced by J Charpentier, and is a superb grower Champagne. What makes Charpentier different to most is that Pinot Meunier makes up the majority of his holdings and makes up 80% of this wine. Even more amazing is that Vintage Cellars is selling this for $30. One of the great bargains of the moment.

Finally, I included several wines from outside Champagne to give perspective. These were readily identified as being non-champagne. The Kreglinger was the stand-out from my perspective, but polarised the group due to the different style.

Recommended

Henri Laurent – Brut – NV (17.8). Pinot Meunier 85%/Chardonnay 15%/Pinot Noir 5%. Pale straw colour. Gentle red fruit on the nose, with hints of brioche and bread dough. The palate is soft and round, with lovely mouth-feel and texture. A refined, elegant wine of real charm. Not pretentious, just a delightful drink, with or without food. Quintessentially Champagne and an absolute bargain! ($35 from 1st choice, but was as low as $30 from Vintage Cellars).

Piper Heidsieck – Brut – NV (17 – 17.5). I really like the nose here. Gentle autolysis, bread dough, some stone fruit and hints of tropical fruit. The palate is taut and fresh, with excellent mouth-feel and presence. Elegant, fresh aperitif style and a good drink. ($38).

Moet & Chandon – Brut – Imperial – NV (17 -17.5). Actually quite fine. Fresh, but with enough autolysis notes to make the nose interesting. The palate is creamy and textural, with decent length. A touch of development adds interest, while the lemony confers life. A good wine.

Mumm – Brut – Cordon Rouge – NV (17). Does not give away a lot on the nose. The palate is defined by bright citrus and mineral characters, with attractive floral notes. Simple, but a good drink for the price. ($40).

Duperrey – Brut – Premier Cru – NV (17). Decent fruit characters on both the nose and palate, with a touch of perfume. Gentle lees and minerality add to the length on the finish.

Pol Gessner – Brut – NV (17). Quite straightforward, but with all of the characters of Champagne. Creamy mouthfeel, lemony fruit, supple texture, good length. ($36).

Kreglinger – Brut – 2006 (NR). I included this wine (along with wines from the Loire and Burgundy) to provide perspective and balance. The fact that it was in a slightly different style polarised the group. Outstanding fruit quality the feature here, conferring a real presence to the wine. Refined, balanced, elegant and very long, this is an excellent wine. Deserves a place in any cellar, but do not expect it to taste like Champagne! ($40).

New Burgundy Imports

Barry Weinman: 23 December 2015

Fluctuations in the Australian dollar have impacted on the price of some imported wines over the last few years. Whilst the big houses’ prices have stayed relatively stable, I have noticed fairly big shifts in the price of some wines, particularly from Burgundy. For a period, there was a flood of great value wines, but as the dollar has fallen, prices have risen accordingly.

Prices today now appear to be back around traditional levels. With this in mind, I was pleased to be able to look through a range of direct import wines brought in by Lamont’s. Whilst the wines are in no way cheap, they do offer a cross-section of styles, often showing excellent typicity and high quality.

My notes below are first impressions. There were over 60 available for tasting, so I did not dwell on any of the wines for long. Also, as the tasting was not a blind tasting, I have not allocated points to any of the wines.

Vintages

After very good vintages in 2009 and 2010 for both red and white Burgundy, 2011, 2012 and 2013 were more variable.

According to Jancis Robinson (http://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/vintages/burgundy-white), in both ‘12 and ‘13 the high quality of white Burgundy proved much better than most expected. The downside was that volumes were much reduced. 2011 was not so lucky.

Reds fared better in some parts in 2011, but again, the ‘12s and ‘13s fared were stronger overall. http://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/vintages/burgundy-red

The Wine Enthusiast was more supportive of 2011, as was The Wine Advocate.: https://www.winemag.com/PDFs/Vintage_Chart_2015.pdf

First Impressions

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2012. Fairly straightforward, but clear typicity. Minerality and texture over fresh fruit, hints of grapefruit and melon. ($122)

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – Champ Canet – 2013. Fine minerality and fruit, with hints of flint. This is really smart. The palate is bright, textured and long, with a fine finish. ($186).

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – Perrierres – 2013. Bigger, richer and more expressive. Long, powerful palate with stone fruit in the peach spectrum, minerals and melon. Great length to close. ($186).

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Mersault – Perrierres – 2013. Refined and balanced. Less overt power than its sister wine from Puligny, but with lovely grace and balance. Long and fine, with gentle minerality to close. A graceful wine. ($255).

Pierre Morey – Mersault – 1er Cru – Charmes – 2013. Quite generous fruit, yet the acid and minerals add restraint and balance. Long and refined, this is a smart wine with a zesty finish. ($199).

Jean Monnier et fils – Meursault Genenrieres – 1er Cru – 2013. The potential is there, but this is quite acidic and restrained at present. Hints of smoke to close. Taut and fresh, give it 5 years to show its best. ($98)

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2011. Fragrant cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is light and fresh, the weight matching the gentle fruit. Good length, this wine will suit current drinking. ($104).

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2012. More depth and density compared to the 2011. Cherry fruit and supple spice, with a core of minerality. This finish is defined by fine, drying tannins which frame the fruit perfectly. Long and supple finish. Now – 5 years. ($104).

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Chapelle Chambertain – Grand Cru – 2010. Feminine, delicate fruit on the nose. The palate has cherry and spice, with cedary oak. The power here really builds, gaining depth and texture. The length is a feature. A spectacular wine with innate power, reflecting the vintage. ($N/A).

Domaine Humbert Freres – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 1er Cru – Estrournelles St Jacques – 2012. A lovely purity to the fruit, with power and structure. This is a big wine that needs a few years, but will reward ($255).

Jean-Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2011. Limpid appearance. This is pretty, refined and elegant. There are cherry fruit notes with subtle spice. Delicate, this is a great effort for the year. ($264).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grand Epenots – 2012. Cherry, spice and supple tannins all feature here, with bright acidity driving the finish. Angular, this needs a few years to let the high quality fruit shine. ($192).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grand Epenots – 2013. For current drinking, I prefer the balance here. More feminine and refined, with gentle structure. Drink over the next few years while waiting for the 2012 to hit its straps. ($196).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Vieille Vignes – 2013. Grace and power is a feature of all Geantet wines, and this is no exception. Refined, elegant and silky. Souring acidity adds life. Cherry spectrum fruit and a very clean finish. ($125).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 1er Cru – Les Champeaux – 2013. Seductive nose, with cherry and anise. The cherry fruit here is breathtaking: intense, yet refined and balanced. The finish is long and supple, with tight knit oak adding depth. Evolves and builds. A superb wine and my pick of the tasting. I might need to have a word to Santa… ($192).

Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 19^th December 2015

With wine tasting, as in life in general, some days are better than others. A bracket of Clare Valley Riesling for example, is always going to be infinitely more enjoyable than tasting Barossa Pinot Noir.

Then there are the really good days. Days when you feel privileged to be given the opportunity to taste the wines presented. Days when the most challenging part of the tasting is bringing yourself to spit the wine out after each sip…

And so it was that I sat down to taste a cross-section of some of Western Australia’s most highly acclaimed Cabernets. Naturally, there can only be so many wines included in a line up like this, so some of the wines that I have rated highly recently were not included here. This includes the likes of the Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Moss Wood (from the Moss Wood Vineyard).

Overall, the wines were outstanding, and the points allocated in this blind tasting arbitrary. A score of 18.5 could easily have been 19, with the minor variations in points indicating my ever-so-slight personal preferences between the wines.

It will come as no surprise that the wines from Margaret River showed so well. It may surprise some though that my top wine (just) was Larry Cherubino’s Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the best Australian Cabernets that I have tasted in recent years.

From a value perspective, the Xanadu Cabernet was a clear standout. A superb wine at a sensible price!

Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2013 (19). The profile here is different to the Margaret River wines, but all the better for it. Supple, ripe fruit is the focus, with a core of minerality. The palate is silky and feminine, with fine (souring) acidity and supple oak and tannin structure. The textured finish is very long and incredibly fine. May turn out to be one of the greatest wines released from Frankland. (RRP $110).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.8). A slightly different style to recent releases, where the fruit is more accessible. Fresh blackcurrant aromas with hints of mint and herbs. The palate is refined and silky, the ripe fruit set against a backdrop of silky oak and tannins. The acidity brings the whole package to life. A tremendous wine that will be long-lived. (RRP $100).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2013 (18.7). Really deep smelling fruit, with spice and spearmint over ripe mulberry notes and a hint of pepper. The palate is dense and structured, yet remarkably refined. The length and texture truly outstanding. There is a silky mouth-feel supported by very supple oak and superb tannin management. A brilliant wine that will live for decades. (RRP $75).

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2013 (18.7). Red berries to the fore, with gentle earth and tar aromas. The palate is relatively lean, with the bright acidity masking the fruit. Very fine oak and tannins dominate the finish, serving to close down the fruit, though a bit of air helped the fruit express better. A very impressive wine that is firmly in the mould of fine left-bank Bordeaux. (RRP $120).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Project U12 – North Block – 2011 (18.6). Very closed and restrained nose. The palate only hints at what is to come over the years. Silky oak combines with oh-so-fine tannins. The texture is outstanding, even if the fruit needs time to emerge. With air, there is a degree of plushness that is most attractive. A lovely wine that has taken a step up from the 2010, which was a pretty smart wine in its own right. (RRP $90).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – Reserve – 2013 (18.6). Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, mint and hints of fresh herbs. This wine sits firmly in the middle-ground, with fine fruit the focus. The structural components frame the fruit, while the acidity carries the finish. Ideally needs 5 years to hit its straps, but a super wine that will give great drinking pleasure any time over the next 15 years. A brilliant follow up to the 2012 and good value at around $50.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.5+). A totally seductive wine that is silky, supple, soft and textured. The fruit is actually quite closed, but the balance is so good that you are left wanting another mouthful. Fruit characters expressed include plum and mulberry, with a spice-lift courtesy of the fine oak and firm tannins. Superb now, or in 20 years, and great value to boot. (RRP $37).

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.3). Lovely fruit combined with slick winemaking makes for an excellent drink. Blackcurrant, spice, hints of menthol and eucalypt all unfold on the palate. The mouth-feel is superb, with wonderful poise and balance. Very fine oak frames the fruit perfectly, with the acid and tannins adding depth. A relative bargain at $35.

Good Value New Releases

Barry Weinman: 10^th December 2015

The panel found a variety of wines over the last few weeks that we either great value drinking, or really interesting. Okay, so the Flowstone are not cheap, but they are interesting wines.

Here are some of the highlights.

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2012 (18). The fruit is quite accessible on the nose, with peach and nectarine giving way to pineapple. The palate is fine and elegant, with the supple oak closing down the fruit at present. Give it another year or two to open up. (RRP $55).

Hollick – Chardonnay – The Bard – 2014 (17.5). Fairly gentle fruit on the nose, with taut grapefruit and blood orange aromas. The palate works a treat, with pineapple, stone fruit, creamy oak, and good length. The citrus-like acidity really drives the finish. Delicious white for this summer with or without food. (RRP $18).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Run Free – 2014 (17). Restrained nose and palate, with neutral aromas and flavours. With air, the gentle stone fruit characters come to the fore. The mouth-feel is a highlight. Give it a year or two for the lemony fruit to open up. (RRP $25).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – N1 – 2012 (17.5+). Delicious fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and supple, with gentle structure and acid. Lacks the ultimate depth of the very best, but this is a lovely drink. From the Coal River Valley in Tasmania. (RRP $38).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – Coal River Valley – 2013 (17). Hints of earth and minerality over dark berry fruit notes. More structure to the fruit on the palate, with red currant, berries, licorice and spice. Slight char from the oak adds complexity. Good value drinking (RRP $26).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18+). Lovely depth and density to the fruit here. The nose is subtle and fine, with hints of sweet berry and subtle spice. The palate is drying and savoury, the core of fruit perfectly balanced by the oak and fine tannins. Near seamless and very long. (RRP $60).

Cross Stitch – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. (17). Ripe and delicious fruit. Plump, fruit-forward palate with cedary oak, fine tannins and just enough grip to make the finish interesting. The fruit is not overly dense, but this will be good easy drinking over the summer months.

Shottesbrooke – GSM – 2014 (17). A crowd-pleasing wine that has gentle plum and mulberry fruit over soft tannins and rounded acidity. Made for early consumption, this is a great alternative to have with roast beef. (RRP $20).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2013 (18). Seductive nose that combines dense, earthy fruit with hints of licorice. In the mouth, the fruit is dense and ripe, without appearing heavy. Slightly chewy tannins and oak add interest to the long finish. Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. (RRP $23).

Achaval Ferrer

For the wine-lover who has everything.

Barry Weinman: 4^th December 2015

According to Gaston William, the Sales Director for Argentinian winery Achaval Ferrer, the winery was started in 1999 by the Achaval and Ferrer families in conjunction with Roberto Cipresso. Hailing from a winery in Montalcino, Cipresso brought vinous expertise to the venture while the Achaval and Ferrer families injected the capital.

Situated in Mendoza, The three main vineyards that supply Malbec for the winery are over 100 years old, with a fourth planted in 1999. Malbec is clearly the focus, with single vineyard wines made from each of the old sites.

The aim is to express the differences between the vineyards, with a minimal intervention approach taken in the winery . There is also a stated aim of capturing old-world elegance, whilst retaining a core of ripe fruit.

Yields are low, with the single vineyard wines in the range of 12 hectolitres per hectare.

The wines have been highly acclaimed from the likes of Parker and the Wine Spectator.

Having tried a cross-section of their wines, they are clearly of very high quality, though there is a catch. The wines are very expensive in Australia. The entry level Malbec and Cabernet are around $65 per bottle, with the range-topping Single Vineyard wines sitting above $300.

At these prices, the wines have not exactly flown out the wholesaler’s door, which is good news for consumers. The wines currently available in Australia have a couple of extra years’ bottle age, which has allowed the wines to open up a little.

If you are looking for a gift for a wine-lover who has everything, then this may be your answer.

Reviewed

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – 2013 (18). Inky, deep colour in the glass. Intense plum-like fruit on the nose with spice and dusty, earthy notes. The palate is dense, soft, supple and intense, with fine tannins and excellent length. The mouth-feel is a highlight. From a blend of vineyards, this spent 9 months in older oak. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (17.5). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is vibrant and juicy, with soft, supple tannins and gentle acidity. With a dusty texture to close, this is balanced, long and a delight to drink now. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2009 (18.5). Very intense fruit on the nose, with a lovely earthy undercurrent courtesy of the Malbec. Again, there is plum and spice. The palate is intense and long. The fruit is elegant and refined, and there is a lovely supple mouth-feel. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the finish. So easy to drink, yet will last for some years. . ($135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2011. (18.3) The fruit here is more vibrant and lifted. The palate has dusty yet intense fruit, with hints of fennel and aniseed. There are slightly chewy tannins on a long, supple and very fine finish. (4000 cases made; $135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – Finca Altamira – 2011. (18.7) This is really refined and silky. There is more purity to the fruit, with the earthy notes sitting firmly in the background. The palate is taut and refined and the fruit subdued. The finish is very elegant, as the oak, tannins and acid are incredibly refined and the balance superb. (1000 cases made; $350).

Geographe Wine Show

Geographe Wine Show – 2015

Barry Weinman: 29^th November 2015

The Geographe wine region covers an area of Western Australia south of Mandurah, down to Busselton, at the edge of the Margaret River region. It includes Harvey, Ferguson Valley, Donnybrook, Capel & Busselton.

With various microclimates, it is not surprising that there are a variety of styles produced. Along with the more mainstream varieties, a number of wineries are exploring alternative varietals. Temperanillo in particular seems to be doing well.

Following on from the Geographe Wine Show, the Geographe Wine Association held a tasting of a number of the trophy and medal winning wines.

I chose to focus (somewhat predictably) on Chardonnay and Cabernet, along with Temperanillo. Overall, the quality of the wines was very high, reflecting that these were some of the best in show.

Wine of the show went to Talisman for their “Gabrielle” Chardonnay. Most successful producer went to Smallwater Estate.

Vineyards at Talisman*

Chardonnay

Talisman – Chardonnay – Gabrielle – 2014. (RRP $35). Lovely mineral and spice notes, over precise and elegant fruit on the nose. There is a healthy dose of curry-leaf minerality that adds depth. That said, there is intrinsic power and structure here. The palate is full and dense, with grapefruit-like acidity that keeps the balance spot on. Textured and dense, this will build for a few years in the bottle (awarded aGold Medal, Best Chardonnay & Wine of Show).

Smallwater Estate – Chardonnay – 2014. (RRP $25). Quite delicate and refined fruit, with strong peach influences. The palate is supple and fresh, with grapefruit, melon and lemon-like acidity driving the finish. Oak sits firmly in the background. A modern, refined wine of real charm and great value too (awarded a Gold Medal).

52 Stones – Chardonnay – Barrel Select – 2014. A traditional style, with a big, rich and buttery nose. The palate is rich and generous, with no rough edges. There is enough acid to balance the power and richness of the peachy fruit. This gives way to a touch of toast and astringency, courtesy of the oak (awarded a Gold Medal).

Ferguson Falls Wines – Chardonnay – 2014. (RRP $27). Quite an elegant style with gentle stonefruit and creamy notes. The palate is bright and fresh, with peach, nectarine, grapefruit and supple oak. The finish sees the oak add grip and texture, without adding overt flavours. Now to 5 years (awarded a Silver Medal).

Cabernet Sauvignon

St Aiden Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (RRP $30). Opens with a lovely core of ripe blackcurrant fruit over aniseed, and cedary spice. The palate is only medium bodied, perfectly matching the fruit profile. There is a touch of graphite and chalky tannins on the long finish. A savoury treat that is good to go now, but will develop for at least 5 – 8 years (awarded a Gold Medal & Best Cabernet of Show).

Ferguson Falls Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 ($27 ex winery). Quite a seductive nose, with soft, approachable fruit. The palate is fresh and fleshy, with gentle grip and structure adding texture. With air, the depth really builds, complemented by fine tannins and oak. Give it time in the glass, or a few years in the cellar (awarded a Gold Medal).

Mandalay Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – Persimmon Paddock – 2014. Fragrant and fine fruit on the nose. The palate is fruit driven, showing blue and blackberries and mulberry highlights, yet the fine structure builds on a finish that is long and supple. Hints of cedar and earthy notes to close. This is an elegant, smart wine that has latent power (awarded a Gold Medal).

Smallwater Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Rob’s Block – 2014. (RRP $30). Very similar to the 2013, though the fruit here is more accessible. The palate has fresh, vibrant fruit that is well suited to the winemaking. Whilst the red berry characters are the main focus, the finish gradually gives way to fine tannins, and a lick of savoury oak. A medium bodied wine that is worth a look. Now – 5 years (awarded a Gold Medal).

Moojelup Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thompsons Block – 2013. (RRP $24). Fresh and succulent red currant fruit that is quite delicious. The palate shows tobacco, spice and vibrant fruit. Little in the way of oak apparent, allowing the fruit to shine. The finish is brought together by fine, talc like tannins. A delicious wine that will go a treat with a BBQ this summer (awarded a Silver Medal).

Willow Bridge Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Coat of Arms – 2013. Hints of plum and spice on the nose. I like this wine for the way it balances ripe fruit with savoury, almost earthy characters. A dense wine that will be well suited to a hearty meal in the cooler months, or with a decent steak off the grill (awarded a Silver Medal).

Temperanillo

Bakkheia – Temperanillo – Aequitas 2014. Licorice and tar to the fore on the nose. The palate is chock full of ripe fruit, though this is in no-way overblown. The fresh acidity, supple tannins and oak all serve to keep the finish vibrant. The dense, chewy fruit builds structure with air. This is a powerful wine that would match roast lamb beautifully (awarded a Gold Medal/Best Red Wine/Best WA Alternative Red Wine).

Fifth Estate – Temperanillo – 2014. (Awarded a Gold Medal).

Green Door Wines – Temperanillo – El Toro – 2014. A savoury, fruit driven nose. The palate is delicious. The vibrant fruit has a distinctly savoury tone that is ready made for food. Cherry and menthol fruit is supported by supple wine making. A delicious wine that is my pick for immediate consumption with food (awarded a Bronze Medal).

Shiraz

Ferguson Falls – Shiraz – 2013. Licorice, leather and spice over plum and aniseed. The palate is dense and ripe, with excellent structure and mouth-feel. Closer to the Barossa in style than Margaret River, the finish is long and powerful, with a dusting of fine tannins and acid. Great drinking (awarded a Gold Medal).

* Image courtesy of Talisman Wines