Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

“Australasia’s Best Pinots”

Reviewed: 19 April 2012

Sometimes you just get lucky. And so it was when I was asked to help run this tasting down at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. This is a tasting that really lived up to its title. There were no bad wines in the tasting, though a couple did not make it to this review.

What was apparent, was the diversity of styles on offer. From the feminine wines like the Felton Road “Block 5” and Nautilus, to the very muscular and powerful styles typified by the Yerring Station.

Of the 16 people in the room, 8 voted for the Nautilus as their wine of the night. At $40 per bottle, this was also one of the cheapest wines in the tasting. Great praise indeed.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2006 (18.6). I think I am in love with this wine. There is everything here. Powerful, though restrained fruit, superb texture, great winemaking and noticeable, though sympathetic oak. A superb wine that goes on and on. Not yet peaked, but so seductive now. Brilliant!

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18.5). Muscular and structured, there is a surprising degree of restraint to what is a very powerful wine. Almost a touch reductive to start, this has it all. The saying, Iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind. The most burgundian to date, with superb structure and length. A concentrated wine for the patient.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2009 (18.5). Substantial wine. Taut, muscular and structured, this requires a leap of faith or a lot of air. Opens to show great depth and the proverbial peacock’s tail finish. Subtlety at its finest.

Martinborough Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5). Superb nose that has spice, leather and earthy notes combined with pristine fruit. The palate is a revelation; subtle, fine, refined, long, elegant, balanced and persistent. Why Martinborough should make more pinot.

Phi – Pinot Noir – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). A more generous and approachable nose. The palate is silky, seamless, round and balanced. The balance really is the key here! The length is outstanding and, again, the flavours really build. Has an ethereal quality that defies labelling.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2008 (18.5). Oh so elegant and seductive, this has it all. Superb fruit and excellent winemaking combine to make this a real star. The fruit is deceptive as the finish builds astringency, as well as dark cherry fruit characters. Mouth-watering finish.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2010 (18.4). Complete nose. Very fine and subtle, this is hard to review late in the tasting! Elegant and silky, with ripe fruit and excellent oak handling. This is a superb wine that is very long and very fine.

Dalrypmple – Pinot Noir – Block T36 – 2009 (18.3). Combination of meaty, savoury notes and brambly fruit. Super-sweet fruit on the palate with a finish that is near seamless. Really fans out and builds both complexity and depth on the finish. Remarkable tannins to close.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Calvert – 2009 (18.2). More muscular than the Phi with a more savoury take on the fruit. The palate is pristine and precise, with excellent line and length. Subtle complexity on a finish that is defined by remarkably silky and fine tannins. Again, the power builds on the finish.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2007 (18.1). Sweet fruit and oak to the fore here showing a remarkably different nose to the 2008. Silky and seductive, but with a spine of ripe fruit. The finish is a touch more astringent, but should evolve.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Pipe Clay Terrace – 2009 (18+). Very shy and reserved. All the ingredients are in place, but this needs time to come together. The fruit is very fine, but the muscular structure shuts down the palate. No rough edges, just latent power.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Long Gully – 2009 (18+). A more muscular style from this producer. Everything is in place, but it needs to integrate. Very long!

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Sweet fruit with oak highlights. Superb wine that combines layers of flavour with a silky texture. Impressive length and silky tannins. The acid carries the finish beautifully. Different, but a great drink.

Clos Henri – Pinot Noir – 2008 (18). Brick-red colour. Lifted, fragrant, red berry fruit dominates the nose. The palate has cherry and spice to the fore, with hints of truffle and an earthy finish. Lovely fruit weight and texture on a finish that is very long and very fine. A bigger, more forward style that offers great drinking.

Quartz Reef – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2005 (18). Subdued nose. Very powerful fruit on the palate but I initially questioned the absolute balance. Then again, the length of the finish is outstanding, with tar, sour cherry and earthy flavours.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Muscular, though reserved on the nose. The palate has a core of ripe, sweet fruit, but the very fine tannins and tight-knit oak serve to dampen the expression. Long and textured, this is more Gevrey than Vosne. Give it a few years to shine.

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Te Muna Road – 2010 (17.8+). A superb wine. Fragrant cherry and gentle spice with hints of truffle and earthy notes. Very delicate and subtle, this is a very feminine and elegant wine that will only get better in the short term.

Nautilus – Pinot Noir – Marlborough – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant, gentle and elegant, this is very approachable and totally delicious. The wine is deceptive though, as there is excellent structure and the fruit builds power. A good each-way bet and the people’s choice for best wine of the night. Good value at around $40.

Red Burgundy

Reviewed: 30 November 2011

When I was asked to help out at a Burgundy tasting hosted by Loren White, I was happy to oblige. The fact that I was in Adelaide on the morning of the tasting when I was asked was a minor hurdle, but I made sure that I was back in time. Loren is one of the true intellects of wine. Not only does he have a superb palate, he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of Burgundy (and wine in general). I would go as far as to say that he is probably the best that I know.

The wines were good to excellent, though ultimately burgundy is never cheap.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Plum, cherry, and hints of tar to what is a surprisingly structured nose. The palate is dense, quite structured and long, with chewy tannins to close. Better than the Bourgogne status would indicate.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2008 (16.5). Open and round, with simple, sweet fruit. A straightforward wine that is juicy and easy to drink.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Bourgogne – 2009 (17.2). Fragrant, ripe and seductive, with forward fruit balanced by silky tannins and a touch of oak. Good length and reasonable texture make this an attractive drink.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (16.8). Nice nose here that is fragrant and ripe. Not that concentrated, but well made.

Philippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17.3) This has plenty of up-front fruit, though it is a more muscular style. The palate is firm yet silky, with impressive length. Again, not that dense, but enjoyable.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Cote de Nuits Vilages – 2009 (17.2). A taut and closed wine that will need a year or two to open up.

Domaine De La Vougeraie – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 2009 (17.5+). A more traditional nose that has hints of medicinal notes and a touch of stalkiness that does not detract. The palate leads off with sour cherry fruit and really builds with air. Very good length and texture. Old fashioned? Sure, but this is an enjoyable Burgundy.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Vosne Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Suchots – 2009 (18). A lovely wine that is both complex and seductive. The nose is redolent of cherry, spice, tar and forest floor notes, all over bright red fruit. The palate is chewy and dense, while the fruit is quite closed. I like this.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Murgers – 2009 (NR). A bad bottle.

Hudelot-Noellat – Pinot Noir – Nuits-St George – 1er Cru – Les Damodes – 2009 (18+). Another lovely nose here that is seductive and surprisingly feminine. Fresh fruit abounds on a vibrant palate that has lovely souring acidity to complement the cherry fruit. Great length and persistence.

Humbert Freres – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenots – 2009 (17.5). A wine in two parts. The nose is perfumed and fresh, with cherry, tar and berry notes. The palate is long, though it is quite lean and angular at present. Like many wines from this commune, this should flesh out with time and score higher points when it does.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Fonteny – 2009 (18). The nose on this is very closed and hints at earthy notes. The palate however is a revelation. The fruit is fine and refined, though the plentiful (ripe) tannins completely shut down the finish. Needs years to show its best, but may well be a star.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Corton Grancey – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). A powerful wine that retains its elegance. Although structured and closed, this is silky, supple and very long. The palate is all about potential. The finish is near seamless, and there is the first signs of the fruit fanning out on a very fine finish.

Jean Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18.5). There is a richness to the fruit here that has real appeal. This is very powerful, though there is a freshness to the fruit that imbues life into the wine. Whilst the palate is very closed, the quality is obvious. More delicate than the other two Grand Crus, this is also more delicious now.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Chambertin Clos de Beze – Grand Cru – 2009 (18/18.5+). Fruit, oak, winemaking… everything about this wine speaks quality but the wine has not come together yet. Really closed and tight, this may well be the best wine here. It will, however, take 20 years to find out. (I will never know, as this is frightfully expensive).

Red and White Burgundy

New Release

Reviewed: 23 November 2011

 

Some smart young wines on show here. For a list of stockists, contact Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveat applies: My points are an indication only.

Reviewed

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2009 (16.5). Appealing mineral and flint, with a little honey. Quite developed, with peachy fruit. Not overly long or complex, but satisfying.

Philippe Chavy – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2009 (17). Lovely nose with stonefruit that is ripe yet focussed. Impressive wine. There are hints of pineapple and smoky match strike, with fresh fruit to close. Quite linear in the palate, this is an enjoyable wine with stonefruit on a creamy finish.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chablis – 1er Cru – Cote de Lechet – 2008 (18). Wow, lovely nose. This really sucks you in. Minerals to the fore, with flint, match strike and wet pebble. The density of fruit here is remarkable. Long and fine, this has really pure fruit. Still quite young and closed, there is real potential here. A fine wine and classic Chablis.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2009 (17.5). More honey here, peach and apricot with subtle spice. Quite linear and precise, this is very youthful. Not as generous as some, but a lovely example. A blend of sub-regions.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de la Velle – 2007 (17.5). Superb nose. Creamy, with stonefruit. Lovely oak and lees integration. Superb fruit with marvellous texture. The finish falls away but will build with time. Pineapple develops on the close.

Philippe Chavy – Meursault – 1er Cru – Les Charmes – 2009 (18.5). Very closed. The palate is outstanding. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on. Very fine and creamy, the palate is almost seamless. Give it 5 years, but it will be superb.

Jean Marc Millot – Cote de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2009 (17). Lovely nose of ripe cherry and hints of strawberry. Vibrant palate of strawberry and spice. A degree of complexity on a fruit driven finish. Reasonable mouth-feel and good length.

Philippe Livera – Gevrey Chambertin – Clos Village – 2009 (17). More complexity to the nose and palate. This has silky fruit. Not that dense, though the finish is fine and elegant.

Humbert Freres – Gevrey Chambertin – 1er Cru – Poissenot – 2009 (17.5). Dense, but very closed. Cherry, tar and spice all vie for attention on the palate. This has quite muscular tannins, but they are ripe and fine. Good oak and very good finish. Smart wine that will only get better!

Jean Marc Millot – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru Les Suchots – 2009 (18.2). Seductive, silky and mouth-filling. Spice, cedar, tar and cherry the main flavours. Everything there, but needs time to show its best. Remarkable length and persistence.

Jean Marc Millot – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2009 (18+). Pure seduction up front, though the very fine tannins build and shut down the finish. Will be a star, but I would like to see it in a year to see how it has come together.

Red Burgundy 2009

23 October 2011

The purpose of this tasting was to look at some pre-release samples from the excellent 2009 vintage. The challenge here is to look for the potential as many of the wines are quite immature. Thanks to Ross Laurence from Fine Wine Wholesalers for inviting me to be a part of the tasting.

Reviewed

Laurent Chardigny – Bourgogne – 2010 (15.8). Pretty nose of strawberry and cherry. Simple cherry fruit. Souring acidity adds freshness, but lacks vitality.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Some vanillin oak comes over the top of the red fruits. Plenty of red fruits underneath, but a more “serious” style. The palate is rich, dense and long. The fruit had real depth, and the wine has been made to last a few years. Good length and texture.

Danjean-Berthoux – Givry – 1er Cru – Clos du Cras Long – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Again, sweet fruit and sweet vanillin/coconut oak. Quite immature and awkward. Chewy and textured, this needs time to come together. Will be good though.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Beaune Villages – 2009 (NR).

Domaine D’Ardhuy Beaune – Premier Cru – Champs Pimonts – 2009 (15.5). Cherry, but complex earthy notes. Salty/savoury edge to the palate, but again, not me. A rustic style.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Cote de Nuits – Villages – Clos des Langres – 2009 (16). A touch of pong here. Earthy, leathery notes dominate the nose. The palate is dry and unyielding. Old fashioned wine making that needs time. The rest of the groups favourite.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Savigny – 1er Cru – Les Peuillets – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Lovely nose here. More in the cherry spectrum, with hints of tar and aniseed. Aniseed and even a hint of pepper to the palate with good texture and intensity. Floral soap.

Domaine D’Ardhuy – Corton Renardes – Grand Cru – 2009 (17.5+). Pretty red fruits. Spicy notes and quality, tight knit oak on the nose. This is an impressive wine of some substance. Real density. Needs years, but a very smart wine. The acidity really builds, so this should age well.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2009 (17). Better balance here and a lovely nose. Silky red fruits with berries and hints of savour plum. Perhaps a touch of oak on the finish, but this, and the fine fruit tannins make this excellent early consumption.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut Aloxe-Corton – Vieilles – Vignes – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Nice wine this. Feminine and seductive nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate. Not over-encumbered by oak, so easier to approach and understand now. Perfume, cherry and spice. Touch of cedary oak to close.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Corton – Grand Cru – Les Hautes Mourottes – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Closed. Has some menthol and spice. This is impressive, but just a baby. Silky, spice. Very elegant and refined, this is very classy. Chewy and savoury fruit to close, with nice balance.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Laoix – Clos Royer – 2009 (16.5). Red fruits to the fore. An attractive blend of red fruits and sour cherry. The palate is savoury, though the mouthwatering acidity makes it hard to evaluate.

Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut – Ladoix – 1er Cru – La Corvee – 2009 (17.5+). More of the sour cherry notes. With hints of savoury spice. Understated, but quite complex. The palate is dense and taught with the savoury tannins completely closing down the fruit. Very drying finish. Complex and persistent, this needs years, but is a very smart wine.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Mercury – Premier Cru – 2009 (16.5). Better balance to the oak here. Silky. Supple fruit that has a more savoury edge. Cherry and hints of plum over fine but assertive tannins. Quite light bodied and fine – drink 3 – 5 years.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger – Pommard – 2009 (17 – 17.5 ). A better blend of fresh fruit and complex, earthy aromas. A touch on the feral side for me, but many will love the leathery/savoury complexity with a touch of stewed rhubarb. Chewy, savoury palate that has some appeal. If you like your wines on the wild side.

Chateau – Genot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton – 1er Cru – Clos du Chapitre – 2009 (17.5+). Again, a touch of earthiness here. Seductive red fruits and subtle spice to an appealing nose. The palate is flooded by dense, ripe fruit. The tannins are fine and the finish long and fine. Builds intensity. Very smart wine with real depth.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Auxey-Duresses Val – 1er Cru – 2009 (16.5 – 17). Unusual style that takes a bit of air to open up. Leathery, savoury notes of dark fruits, but the winemaking is good. Quite long, but rather closed on the palate.

Vaudoisey – Creusefond – Volnay – 2009 (17.5). An elegant wine of some note. Again, closed and shy, but there is a vein of peppery red fruits running through the palate. The tannins a firm but fine and the finish chewy and nicely weighted. Good persistence and length.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Nuits Saint Georges – 2009 (16.5+). Quite closed though there is lovely silky, spicy notes. This is savoury and a touch sappy. Simple fruit, but totally delicious drinking.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts – 2009 (18+). Pretty wine. This has lovely floral fruit, though the weight on the palate is impressive indeed. Very long, textured and beautifully weighted, this is both feminine and taught. The finish is finally shut down by extraordinarily fine tannins that really build. This is a great each way bet, as it is both delicious now, but has enough structure to age for ten or more years.

Michel Noellat et Fils – Chambolle Musigny – 2009 (17.5+). Lovely nose. More sour cherry than ripe fruit, this is a savoury wine that demands food. The palate is quite seamless, and the balance excellent. It just needs a year or two to open up.

Marchand – Grillot – Morey – Saint – Denis – 2009 (17.5). Cherry and berry fruit on the nose. The palate is where it is all happening. Mouth filling, savoury, supple and spicing. The tannins build on the finish, closing down the dense fruit. Long and fine, this is a classy wine. The texture is excellent and the fruit builds in the mouth. Chocolate to close.

Marchand – Grillot Gevrey – Chambertin – En Songe – 2009 (17). Closed and tight, this has plenty of potential. The palate however gives me a slight shudder as the balance is not there yet. Give it a year.

Vincent Ravaut – Chambolle-Musigny – 1er Cru – Les Baudes – 2009 (17.8 – 18.2). Closed and retiring. This is all potential. Lovely ripe fruits emerge from the structural shadows. The palate is silky and feminine and the intensity of the fruit is better than most here. Excellent length and the fruit builds. Very fine tannins and oak to close. Will be an excellent drink in 5 years.

Picardy – New Release

Reviewed: 14 September 2011

I was pleased to be able to make it to the new release tasting put on by the Pannell Family. This was especially so because there were six vintages of Tete de Cuvee on tasting. My overall impression is that Picardy continues to evolve and mature as a maker and the wines have never been better. Bravo!

On a separate note, I had an interesting chat to Bill about Picardy’s continued use of corks. He assures me that since around 2005, the issues around cork taint have largely been resolved. I might explore this topic more at a later date.

As this was not a blind tasting, my points are a bit rubbery, hence the spread.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Lifted fruit on the nose. Think green pear with a touch of minerality. The palate is generous, round and balanced with hints of stonefruit. There is even a touch of creaminess to close.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Nice wine this. Forward, ripe fruit with nectarine and a touch of vanilla from the (quality) French oak. The texture of this wine is a highlight, though the oak needs to settle a touch. Give it a couple of years to blossom.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant and perfumed, with lovely gentle spice on the nose. This is really spicy on the palate. The fruit is just starting to open up and the palate has quite expressive fruit. Excellent length and texture, with black fruit in the cherry spectrum. I love the fact that this has none of the smoky bacon characters that Pemberton pinots can get.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2009 (18+). A very pretty wine! The nose is defined by fresh white pepper. The palate has more cracked white pepper with plenty of spice. This is elegant, refined and medium bodied, with excellent length and intensity. The wine really builds and has good mouth-feel. The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak only plays a supporting role.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2009 (17). The most approachable of the current batch of reds. Opens with ripe red fruits and a touch of plum. This is soft, round and balanced. Drink now or in five years.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 1999 (NR). Well developed, yet there is still a degree of freshness to the red fruits. The palate is mouth-filling, round and long, while the balance is spot on. A touch of smoky bacon to close. Drinking well now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2000 (NR). Quite developed and needs to be drunk up.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2002 (NR). Lovely complex nose displaying some funky, slightly feral aromas. The palate is long, complex and beautifully developed. My pick to drink now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2005 (NR). Much fresher, with bright red fruit. This is a lovely wine that, whilst starting to show developed characters, is still quite tight. Excellent length with some smoky notes to close.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Closed and tight, it is the mouth-feel that is the highlight of this wine. There are some vibrant fruit characters, precise structural components and excellent texture. A special wine.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Similar in style to the 2007, with a superb palate. The structure is spot on too. This is an easier wine to drink young than the ’07, but still deserves time in the cellar to show its best.

Pinot Noir – Victoria and Tasmania

University Wine Society

Reviewed 7 July 2011

The University Wine Society meets once per month to conduct themed wine tastings. For many years now, it has been expertly run by Andrew Baird. Andrew has a fine palate and a life-long passion for wine. So when I heard that Andrew was presenting a tasting of Victorian and Tasmanian pinot noirs, I was keen to attend.

The highlights of the tasting were the wines from Paringa Estate and the Paradigm Hill. The Peninsula pinot noir from Paringa in particular represents fine value. As is my policy, only the best wines are reviewed on this page.

Reviewed

Paradigm Hill – Pinot Noir – L’ami Sage – 2008 (18.2). Quite dumb and closed in comparison to the rest of the bracket. Lean and angular, this is just a baby. Firm, muscular and tannic, everything is in place for this wine, it just needs 5 years to start to open up. With air, this wine develops lovely perfume and bright cherry fruit. The tannins are fine and very silky and the finish is relatively seamless.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Estate – 2007 (18+). Limpid. This has a focus to the nose that is arresting. Hints of cherry, Satsuma plum, tobacco and spice. The palate follows suit with a linear and precise delivery. Everything is in place, it just needs time to blossom.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2008. (17.9). More complexity and density of fruit compared to the Praxis (Moorilla). Lovely cherry fruit on the nose. This has high quality fruit that is silky and supple. This has been really well made. The oak is deftly handled and the sappy notes on the finish add interest and intensity. A lovely feminine wine with excellent length.

Moorilla – Pinot Noir – Muse – 2007 (17.7+). Dense and quite meaty, with a lovely palate. Yes the fruit is ripe, but there is lovely fruit weight. The finish is slightly chewy, yet the tannins are very refined and polished. Mouth-feel and texture are spot on and the length is a highlight. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and will score higher marks in the future.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 2006 (16.9). Structured and firm. A firm and tannic wine that has some resemblance to claret, with a hint of mint, eucalypt and spice. A leaner wine that should evolve over the next few years.

Moorilla – Pinot Noir – Praxis – 2008 (16.8). A touch stalky, but good cherry fruit, strawberry and subtle spice too. Fresh and vibrant fruit on the palate, with lovely souring acidity. Not overly concentrated but enjoyable. The fleshy fruit makes up for the lack of concentration.

Pinot Noir and Cabernet

New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).

Pinot Noir To Drink Now

Reviewed 2 April 2011

Our “Last Sunday” tasting group met a week late but the quality of the evening more than compensated. This was much more than a mere tasting, it was a sensory delight. As usual, the wines were fantastic, but, even better, Robyn and Loren prepared a series of superb dishes to accompany the wines.

The theme was pinot noirs that were ready to drink. As with all wine, this is open to individual interpretation, but most of the wines were from the early to mid 2000s.

Reviewed

Main Divide – Pinot Noir – 2004 (18.4). Lovely nose. The wine is dense, rich, ripe and textured. On the palate, this is textured, dense, long, ripe and powerful. Obviously pinot, but this is richer and riper than most. Not Burgundian in style, but very impressive.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2003 (18.3). Quite cold initially. Dense and tight, this has great fruit quality. There are earthy notes, with forest floor. The intensity of the fruit is fantastic and there is real depth to the palate with excellent texture. Very long, this is a treat.

Cristom – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2002 (18). A nervy wine that developed power in the glass. This has real interest. The savoury fruit notes are a treat. We had this with Lauren’s superb lamb dish – this is an excellent food wine!

Road 13 – Pinot Noir – 2007 (18). Greater fruit density here, with a lovely complex nose. Cherry, tar, spice, clove, cinnamon and slightly grippy tannins. An impressive wine that is a very good drink.

Main Ridge – Pinot Noir – The Acre – 2001 (17.6). More vegetative style. This is a complex wine with a lot going on. There is not a lot of primary fruit, but with food this is good. The finish is a touch smoky with a little bit of bacon fat.

Domaine Caillot – Chardonnay – Mearsualt – Le Limozin – 2004 (17.7). Creamy nose and palate. Very supple with a silky mouth-feel. The creamy oak is well judged. This is surprisingly tight and fresh and could take another few years in the cellar. (This was the warm up wine).

Akarua – Pinot Noir – 2007 (17.6). More complex than some here, this is a rich, dense and powerful wine. This is still youthful and very tight. Long, and supple, this is a very good red wine that should improve in the bottle.

Calera – Pinot Noir – Jensen Vineyard – 1999 (17.5). Smoke, tar, rubber, earthy. Rich and generous, the mouth-feel. is lovely. Builds in the mouth, with silky tannins and real length. Aged, there is a touch of cold tea to close.

Domaine Fourrier – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2002 (17.5). A touch earthy, this is quite seductive. Silky in the mouth, with sour plum and cherry fruit. Not generous, but should develop well. Long and supple, this is an excellent wine.

Jean-Michel Guillon – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertin – Les Crais – 2003 (17.5). Slightly turbid. Denser fruit, with good complexity. There is an earthy note, with aniseed, tar and smoke courtesy of the oak. Mature, this I a lovely drink.

Mongeard-Mugneret – Pinot Noir – Vosne-Romanee – 1er Cru – Les Petits Monts – 2001 (17.5). Limpid in the glass. Fragrant and juicy fruit with some appeal. A lighter style that is defined by fresh red fruits and minimal interventions. Long and supple.

Paringa Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2005 (17.5). Starts off very bright and pretty, but develops depth of flavour and richness in the glass. Pretty fruit, this wine has developed a degree of complexity that makes it excellent drinking now. There is juicy cherry fruit with a touch of meatiness. The balance is spot on. Meaty. At half the price of the “Estate”, this represents excellent value.

Stefano Lubiano – Pinot Noir – Primavera – 2009 (17.4). Perfumed, with strawberry and cherry fruit. Silky, fresh and juicy, this is a pleasant drink. A good effort for an entry level wine.

Burgundy 2008

Boot-Full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

March 2011

One of the most important events on the calendar of the Institute of Masters of Wine is the Annual Burgundy tasting. This year, the 2008 vintage was featured, and the tasting was organised in association with Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition. I was lucky enough to be able to attend.

2008 was a difficult year in Burgundy, and has been christened “the miracle vintage”. The miracle to which they refer is the burst of sunshine the region experienced, accompanied by fresh (and, importantly, drying) northerly winds from the second week of September to the beginning of October.

The cool and humid start to spring was a harbinger of things to come. The whole growing season was wet and cool, with the crop beset by coulure climatique (physiological failure of fruit set) and millerandage (variation in berry size). 2007 was also a cool and wet vintage, but by the end of June, the 2008 vintage was further than three weeks behind where the 2007 grapes were at the same time.

Rot and mildew were a constant threat (those growing organically or biodynamically were particularly challenged), and called for attentive vineyard management. The period of sunshine helped greatly to keep these maladies at bay in the weeks before harvest, but though the sun shone, it was cool, especially at night. Thus the wind concentrated the sugar in the grapes, but full physiological ripeness was difficult to achieve.

The other key to producing good wines in this vintage (other than obsessional vineyard practices) was strict and often laborious sorting. I have heard that some producers rejected up to 40% of their fruit, giving yields as low as 16hl/ha.

As a result, I went to the tasting expecting that acidity levels would be very high (they were – in fact malolactic fermentation took ages to be completed), and that some wines (both red and white) would be a bit lean (indeed some were).

My overall impression was that whites fared better than reds, and that the Cotes de Nuits shaded the Cotes de Beaune (though I enjoyed several of the wines from Corton). I will confess that I am, as Michael Schuster puts it, one who likes my white Burgundy “taut, refreshing, aromatically complex and minerally”. There were no fat white Burgundies here!

But this vintage (though some would argue, every vintage) was more about the producer than the provenance of the wine. Those producers who were fastidious in both the vineyard practices and in their sorting were able to do great things. Below I will highlight a few producers whose wines I thoroughly enjoyed.

**CHANSON

Chassagne-Montrachet – Les Chenevottes – 1er Cru (White). Lean and tight, rhubarb and citrus on the nose, good length and depth of palate. 17.5 pts

Beaune – Clos des Féves – 1er Cru (red). Wonderfully complex and balanced, amalgam of fruit and secondary flavours, silky tannins. 18.5 pts

Savigny-lés-Beaune – La Dominode – 1er Cru (red). Bright red translucence, very expressive nose, fruit and savoury elements, elegant and balanced. 18.5 pts

GEORGE ROUMIER

Chambolle Musigny (red). Sulphurous initially, which blew off. A thoroughly well made wine – each element of fruit, tannin and acid playing a part, but not individually intrusive. 17 pts

Morey-Saint-Denis – Clos de la Bussiére – 1er Cru (red). Lifted nose of sweet strawberries and cherries. A leanness to the palate but fruit flavours not unripe. 17 pts

Bonnes-Mares – Grand Cru – (red). When one tastes wines like this one realizes why people just go crazy about red Burgundy. This was a near perfect expression of pinot noir – cherry fruit, silky tannins, austere but with a rustic edge. Controlled power. 18.5 pts

BONNEAU DU MARTRAY

Corton-Charlemagne – Grand Cru (white). Full, rich and powerful, with layers of complexity – palate variegated but integrated. Effects of battonage, MLF and oak evident, good acidity, and very persistent length. 18 pts

Corton – Grand Cru (red). Intense fruit concentration, with ripe tannins. Far too young – has a great future ahead. 18 pts

MAISON FAIVELEY

Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet – Grand Cru (white). A bigger yet balanced expression, stylish, subtle and long palate. High quality oak. 17.5 pts

Gevrey-Chambertin – Les Cazetiers – 1er cru (red). Serious nose gives way to a serious palate – with fruit and savoury flavours, silky mouthfeel, good balance. 17.5 pts

Mazis-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). After the initial sulphur has blown off, this is the proverbial peacock’s tail. Aromas keep building in the glass, flavours likewise on the palate. 18.5 pts

DROUHIN

Chablis – Grand Cru – les Clos. Citrus minerality, austere and lean. Acid levels high. Evidence of oak and malo (not atypical for Grand Cru Chablis) 17.75

Beaune – Clos des Mouches Blanc – 1er Cru (white). Depth to olour and flavour. Wet stone and lychee notes. Elegant mouthfeel. 17.5 pts

Grands Echézeaux – Grand Cru (red). Depth to aroma and palate, cherry and even soy. Again, far too young, (and in this case, a bit cold also – new bottle recently emerged from the cellar and opened ~12 deg C. Showed better when warmed.) 18 pts

DOMAINE DUJAC

Vosne-Romanée – Aux Malconsorts – 1er Cru (red). Hints of coffee on the nose (probably from oak). No lack of phenolic ripeness here – the particular mingling of fruit and tannins and acid suggest long aging potential. 18.5 pts

TRAPET

Latriciéres-Chambertin – Grand Cru (red). Layers of complexity, luscious and classically expressive. 18.5 pts

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

** Chanson is not part of Les Domaines Familiaux de Tradition but is an Institute sponsor

Victorian Tasting – New Release

Reviewed – 3 March 2010

The diversity in the Australian wine industry continues to expand each year. It has become hard to keep up to date with the new and exciting wineries that are continually springing up. When John Jens called to say that there was a tasting of some of the new (and not so new) emerging producers, I was keen to attend. The wines were primarily Victorian, with a good selection of pinot noir.

The wines were presented by wholesalers Travis Howe, Cath Willcock (Imbibo) and also a producer, in Erinn Klein (Ngeringa). Whilst the wines on show were diverse in style, the common theme was the passion with which our hosts presented the wines! Ngeringa is an interesting story, with the wines being Biodynamic. Errin is totally committed to the principles and feels that the wines are now expressing a true sense of place. Whether biodynamics is your thing matters not. The chardonnay is worth trying.

There were several highlights including the wines from Bass Phillip and William Downie. The pick for me, from a value point of view, was the Jamsheed pinot (Pepe Le Pinot). An excellent drink at the price.

NB: This was not a blind tasting. There were too many wines on tasting to review them all, so I focussed mainly on the pinots.

Reviewed

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Complex nose, but a touch more forward than in some previous years. The palate is a treat, with leather and spice over earthy fruit. Very refined, this is powerful and silky, though very tight. This is more Burundian in style and is not as approachable as the Crown Prince at the moment.

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Rich, dense and structured, the ripe fruit perfectly balanced by textural components and fine, lingering acidity. The mouth-feel is fantastic and will only get better. The finish is very long and precise. A complete wine!

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (18+). Silky wine, though tighter than the Yarra and Gippsland wines. The structure here is the key. The acid is a touch high at the moment, so give it a year or two to settle. As this opens up, it develops some of the mouth-watering juicy fruit that these wines all seam to have. The finish is long and textured. May turn out to be the best of the three in the medium term.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Crown Prince – 2008 (17.5/18). Ripe fruit aromas leap from the glass, with strawberry, plum and cherry fruit characters. A generous palate displaying rich, ripe and textured fruit. Think spice, with earthy and meaty components over ripe red berries. The length and generosity make this a great drink. (I gave this extra points for being a really good drink!)

Mayer – Pinot Noir – Doctor – 2010. (17.5 – 18). From a close planted vineyard. Closed and tight on the nose. There is rich, sweet fruit on the palate that evolves into a savoury mouth-feel with extraordinarily fine tannins that caress the tongue. Balanced fresh acidity carries the palate to a precise and long finish. There is a touch of grip on the finish, but this will soften with air. Bring on the roast duck.

Syrahmi – Shiraz – Climat – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Very enticing nose that is vibrant and perfumed, whilst being really deep smelling. In the mouth, there is cherry, menthol, pepper and chocolate over red fruits. Despite its refreshingly moderate alcohol (13.2%), this is packed with flavour. The finish is silky and long, with some leather, aniseed and spice to close. An elegant wine.

William Downie – Pinot Noir – Gippsland – 2010 (17.5 – 18). More immediate appeal here than the other Downie pinots. With bright red fruits, this is succulent, juicy, generous, round and forward. The length and structure are very good. Drink this while waiting for the others.

Wildcroft – Shiraz – Wild One – 2007 (17.8). Rich and vibrant fruit to start, but there are some really interesting funky characters and white pepper reminiscent of the Northern Rhone. The palate has powerful fruit, with earthy (almost gamey) overtones. A long, silky palate is set off by fine, chalky tannins. Not a mainstream style, but a very good wine.

Ngeringa – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.7). Surprisingly fresh and vibrant for a wine that went through 100% malo-lactic fermentation. The palate is where this wine stands out. Excellent mouth-feel and texture on show here. The sweet fruit blends seamlessly with the wine-maker’s inputs such as barrel fermentation and some lees work. A fine wine with obvious appeal. Biodynamic Wine.

Madderns Rise – Chardonnay – 2009. (17.5). Nectarine, peach and perfumed floral notes. This smells really creamy, courteous of the 100% malo-lactic fermentation, though it is in no way overblown. The palate has fruit richness and texture, with grapefruit acidity running over the top. Very fresh, this should improve for another year or two. Good drinking.

Garagiste – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17 – 17.5). Bright, clean and fresh. The palate is excellent, with forward, bright fruit that is long and textured. This has a lovely mouth-feel to complement the juicy fruit. Not quite as complex as some, but this should be excellent value.

Jamsheed Wines – Pinot Noir – Harem Series – Pepe Le Pinot -2010 (17 – 17.5). Smells like pinot, tastes like pinot… must be pinot. This is a really smart little wine, with cherry and spice on a textured palate. There is a touch of licorice and sympathetic oak to close. At around $20, this is a beauty! Try La Vigna, Beaufort St Merchant or Lamont’s in Perth or United Cellars on the east coast.

Mayer – Chardonnay – Bloody Hill – 2010 (16.9). Subdued nose to start. The palate is fine and silky, with excellent length and texture. The fruit is not particularly complex, but the wine-maker’s inputs add to the mouth-feel.

Ravensworth – Marsanne – 2009 (16.9). Complex aromas of subtle fruit, with a touch of oak evident. Made in a style that emphasizes texture and mouth-feel over primary fruit. Quite a neutral wine that will take food well. Made by Tim Kirk from Clonakilla.

Mayer – Pinot Noir – Bloody Hill – 2010 (16.8). A pretty wine with cherry fruit over tar and spice. The palate is round and satisfying with no rough edges. Acids and tannins keep the fruit fresh and there is little in the way of oak influence.